If you own a Mobula 6 HD and haven't done this yet you definitely should. Just made the change today and it is awesome. Throttle control is easier, flies faster and much more control. Surprisingly good even on the GNB 300mah battery although it needs tape to keep it in. Enjoying this more than my Mobula 7 on 2s.
Thanks for this video on converting to a 75mm frame! I just got the meteor 65 hd and am doing a similar conversion. For whoop frame repairs I use tiny strips of Tyvek building wrap to bridge my breaks. I put the glue on the broken area then lay the Tyvek down over the break lapping about 1 cm on each side. I think this makes a stronger joint. Since the Tyvek is very thin it adds very little thickness to the repair area. I have never had one fail. I use E-6000 but I imagine Welder would be great too.
I've seen dozens of your videos,and the way you rip the house and yard never ceases to amaze me.Hopefully this combo of parts will become available stateside soon,BG estimates close to 2 months ship time.Looks like a sweet setup.
Just takes time and practice. Thankfully our practice is fun. I can't imagine it would take two months, is that maybe due to many pre orders? I have seen a number of FB posts of people receiving their m6 HD
Looks like a great backyard flyer! My house is too small and my yard is a fair bit smaller than yours, but love the performance/flight time! Also, that RunCam looks like such winner! Thanks for the conversion vid, Nick
I just did this mod today on my Mob 6 hd. Only got to do a test battery, but it seems like fun. I think I have a #3 motor going out so time for more parts 😁. Thank you for this video Nick👍👍 🤙
back again after one of my motors separated itself from the hoop (all 3 arms broke off) time for the 75mm upgrade - really glad you made this video cause i would be lost otherwise
3 days after my mobula 6 hd arrived, the battery cage has already broken. Granted, the battery is still held in, it was the top supports that separated it from the board that have snapped. Guess I'll be upgrading to 75mm sooner than i thought lol. Glad for this video so I'll know what I'm doing.
Hi Nick, thanks for creating this Video which is very informative and inspiring. I just have a concerning thing to check with you and hopefully I could get answered.... I have modified my M6HD in pretty much the same way that you did to yours, however if I fly very wildly, the OSD currency peak can get up to about 11A , am I risking damaging the 5A BUILT-IN ESC? I am using 20000KV motors with double blades. Thanks
Thank you so much for this video. Just finished upgrading my Mobula6 HD with the M7 v3 frame. I know is a gram or two heavier but was surprised of other side benefits (the SD card and the video board control ports are easier to access!). Also, I know you mentioned the holes for the motors not lining up 100% on the v2 frame. The v3 was perfect. In addition, I flashed Betaflight 4.2 and JESC, my cruising style flight time is 5+ mins! (w/ gnb 520mah). I'm using Gemfan 3 blade props you suggested but was wondering if the 1636 will improve flight time and/or performance an extra notch? I ordered the Gemfan 1636 1mm to give'em a try. What you think I should be expected?
Great info. Well done video. I'm using the Tiny Whoop HV lipos with the BT 2.0 connectors on my home built Meteor65. Very good performing lipos. Thanks Nick, happy flying. 🤓
Nice flight!!! I ordered a months ago still waiting for mine to ship but I can’t wait.. I will show flight on my channel. Not sure if I will do upgrade or not, we will see...
I was very impressed with how the M6 flew. You were ripping it around in that video. I was also impressed w/ the video of the M6HD, but not how it flew or the very limited flight time. The extra 6-7g makes a big difference. The HD on a bigger frame is a great idea. Also, I wouldn't have to buy a bunch more batteries. Question. Since the screws are long could you put a washer/shim or two between the frame and the board. Then slide the rubber grommet on and add a spacer on top of the post that would slide inside the rubber grommet. I'm talking 2mm tops. If needed, you could always get a longer screw. That should move the usb port up as well as give a little more clearance for the motor connectors. I cant really tell from the video if that would work. Best option would be for them to make a 75mm V3 1S frame. Call your Peeps because you have the best of both with this mod. Love your videos, thanks.
Adding a washer or shim to get some usb clearance is doable with the long screws. The only concern I would have is the durability of the mounts the screw goes in, if we have less screw in the mount it could mean less mount durability...maybe.
Mr. Nick Sir, I would appreciate your input on my dilemma. I have purchased a used Mobula 6 HD. Previous owner says it has either a bad motor or a bad FC (I don't have it yet to troubleshoot - literally on the slow boat). Either way, something will be getting replaced. I have been watching your review videos of the mobula whoops. Is upgrading the mobula 6 (HD) to a mobula 7 frame and props still a suggested improvement? I just happen to have a NBD Cockroach 75 frame (the standard, not the extreme durability) - what are your thoughts on upgrading the mobula 6 hd to the Cockroach? I cannot find many reviews on the Cockroach at all. I like that it has a carbon backbone. I'm not concerned with making the lightest whoop ever - durability is more important to me. So... questions with all this background info: * Is upgrading the mobula 6 HD to the mobula 7 frame/props still the best upgrade you can do? * Would using the NBD Cockroach 75 frame be a suitable alternative to the mobula 7 frame? *If one of the motors is bad on my mobula 6 HD, should I replace it with another HappyModel 0802 19000kv, or upgrade to different motors? * If the FC is bad, should I buy a replacement mobula 6 HD fc, or is there a better one to use in your opinion? * How can I support you more than just subscribing to your channel? Do you have a Patreon? Thank you so much for all you do. You are one of my favorite content creators, and the first place I look for reviews when considering a new (or used) purchase.
For durability I would suggest either using the frame and carbon brace you have or using the mobula 7 v3/Eachine trashcan frame. I think you will get more stable footage from the carbon bracing frame though. If the motor is bad I would stick with the same specification of motor unless your comfortable tuning the pids in betaflight. I think staying with the same board is also a good choice, unless again your comfortable pid tuning. If you are it really opens up the possibilities in our AIO to choose. I would likely get something more recent that we can add our own receiver to, like the crazybee f4 pro v3. I do have a patreon, its is linked way down at the bottom of the video descriptions. Don't feel overly compelled to join patreon. I read all comments and messages regardless of who is sending. I try to help everyone as much as I can. Although patreon does give you access to the discord server I have setup. Its a pretty small group on discord, ranging from new to veterans.
This is a fairly dated video. I believe in the video I state that i didn't change the pids from the mobula 6 HD. the mobula 6 HD pids and other settings can be found on the happymodel.cn support website.
Great vid as always sir....lol...you speak and I’ve got a new project! 🤬 I think I’m going to order two and transition my Meemo build (check out PMB vid...it’s hands down my best flying quad) with one of them...question: do you think four bladed HQ/Avan/ or the original Mob7 or Trashcan props would drop the efficiency much? I’m a park cruiser/ proximity type so always looking for max flight times? Kudos as always...looking forward to the next
For flight time less blades generally means more flight time. I don't think there is a 40mm Avan prop. The newHQ triblades are pretty good. Not sure if they are super efficient or not.
Thanks for this video Nick! I just upgraded my mobula 6 hd into a trashcan frame. Simple, and getting over 4 min flights. Might be longer, but for some reason the camera goes black after 4 min or so.... Ever see this? P s. What is your policy on video link in comments?
Its likely we are running the battery to low and the camera can't be powered. We need to bring it into land at or around 3.5v per cell. I don't have a linking policy but youtube thinks any link submitted is spam and is held until I approve it.
I've cracked a couple of v3 frames with mobula 7 HD, my friend also broke two with a trashcan. It's either one of the propguards or the battery tray and it's surroundings - it's just horrible quality. The M7HD canopy is also really easy to break. My M7HD is was much more repair and bodging than flying, but that was my first quad to be honest. Motors are also quite delicate - I've had two or three now that had their wires broken off just outside of the coils while airborne - fixed them, one got broken off again and now it's been sitting on my desk in agony for a few months.
What do you think about the 24k version of the MOB6 motors for the 75mm conversion? Trade offs? Any value in having a little more torque? Would the efficiency suffer too much to make it worthwhile? These things are fine line power:weight:efficiency....just curious...I’ll probably fiddle with both since I took your earliest advice and bought 4 Mob6 (2x19k and 2 x 24k) and have been parting them out for Frankenbuilds! Aside from the board erase issue they have good components...Other big issue is after a few hundred packs (read crashes) they always seem to induce jello that’s difficult to correct no matter how much crap you cram in the frame or torque down components....
It will increase the top end performance and also decrease flight time comparatively. The decreased torque will likely come to play in the most aggressive of turns, or crash avoidance.
Great video, now I see they have a crossfire edition of the mob6 hd,,, how far could it go with your mod? I just got a spi xm. Version but now I want crossfire... The nano split fpv image really is great,,,, puts the turtlev2 to shame
I really couldn't say how far. That would likely be the limit of the video reception in the specific flying environment. In short if clear video, a long long way.
@Nick Burns ... my conversion came out looking great! V2 frame! But now i have a funny wobble when I fly in a strait line (indoors, no wind) I tried to fix it by flashing 4.2 on the flight controller, and updated the esc so I could use RPM filtering (Dshot 300) Kept the stock pids and I am using the triblade gemfan props you recommended. Do you think I can fix this with a slight adjustment in pids, or did I possibly dammage something when I transferred over my components? (bent prop shaft, loose motor wire ect) Any advise is welcome! Thanks for the awesome vids!
Thanks Nick! You're tops. ► Also, support RaceDayQuads everyone! They're CHEAPER than BangGood or Amazon, and they're right here in the USA. ($12.70 for the V3 frame and GemFan props shipped, versus $17.72 from BangGood or $18.98 from Amazon Prime) Plus the guys at RDQ are responsive, communicate well, are genuinely nice, and stand behind what they sell if you have any trouble. ► My first purchase from them was my Mobula6 about 4 months ago, and it was such a great experience + great price that I'm definitely looking to them whenever I can for future purchases!!
Nick, I have a Moby7. I ordered a RunCma Split 3 Nano Woop. What do you think a good stragedy would be for mounting the Split 3 on it. The Moby's VTX is in the AIO camera, right? So do you think a Moby 6 canopy and a micro VTX would get me in the air? Or is it more complicated than that. What if I was to order the Moby6 Flight Controler? Thank you for all the awesome Micro video'z. Best wishes from Central Texas!
Get the mob6hd canopy , it comes with the mount we need for the split cam. If you looking at multiple parts it might be worth getting the entire mob6 hd, if the price difference isn’t huge. Then you have spare parts
Nick did you try V3 frame? From my experience I can say that M6 + M7 V2 frame flies OK without PID tuning but M6 + M7 V3 frame has serious oscillations.
Yep I’ve had the same issue...I used the same V3 frame an it’s just not as smooth (I did an 85mm conversion as well...but bigger 1103s...smooth as silk)...my 75mm transitions is ok but something is not right...then again..higher expectations...these MOB6 fly like rails compared to the MOB6 / Trashcan ever did out of the box!
@@rickdeckard7549 Rick, what do you mean by "these MOB6"? Are you referring specifically to the Mobula 6 HD, or are you saying the Mobula 6 series in general flies better than the Mobula 7 / Trashcan ever did? I'm not following what you meant...but I need to know. Thx.
Hey, nice Video. It is nessary to change settings in Betaflight regarding the PID. Or for the motors because these would be warm. For the 40mm probs is the 3 blade better like 4 blades? Thx
We can change pids in the osd from the goggles as well. If the motors are warm what betaflight version are you running? As to props and whats better, it depends on what you want. Less blades more flight time, less "grip" in turns. More blades more thrust and grip, but less flight time.
@@NickBurnsFPV Hey..yes of course over the Goggle. I have the BF 10.7.0 At the moment I have the iFlight Alpha A65 and the Mob 6HD upgrade is a Future project. Thx for the very helpful probs Info.
Good morning, I would appreciate your opinion very much, I want a small drone to fly indoors and outdoors, more in indoors, I would like it to have HD, what would be better for you ?, mobula6 HD with frame 75mm, mobula 7 hd with Runcam SPLITE3 and KV9000 motors, or a cinefun (more expensive) or other whoop?, I would appreciate your opinion on which would be better, thanks in advance, greetings!
Yup, that was me that recommended the Forj thermoplastic tape. I finally decided to give myself an FPV handle a couple of weeks ago. Just an FYI, I use a couple strips of the tape, one to wrap around the duct with the fibers going vertical and then another strip horizontally on the outside of the duct. Another horizontal one ,if the clearance allows it, on the inside of the duct. Another thing, the tape eventually released from the duct, but didn't break. So I added a touch of glue and reheated the tape and that has been holding up well. Great mod, I really want that camera!
Should I get the Mobula6 or the HD version? I am so indecisive. I am a beginner into the hobby and the reason I am thinking of not getting the HD version is because I heard that it flies not as good and lesser flight time than the non-HD version. Help!
Best to start with a lighter version, non hd. Less weight will have less impact force when we crash and therefore be more likely not to damage the quad, or damage it less with each crash.
Hey Nick. I am looking to get my first HD whoop / micro not dji. Must have onboard HD recording any suggestions? Mainly flying outside around my yard. Thanks.
@@NickBurnsFPV I am eyeing the Mobula 6 HD seems like it's a good choice or the GEPRC Thinking P16 3S CineWhoop w/ Caddx Loris 4K. Which would you go with? I like the price point of the Mobula 6 but, I am still new to flying some what my favorite quad so far is the TinyHawk I love ripping it around the yard. But, I want something that records HD onboard.
@@savagebreaksrc1778 I would suggest the P16, its more durable and more capable outside. But if you plan to fly primarily inside or in very confined spaces the mobula 6 HD will be a better option. 3s inside takes some pretty good throttle management.
Hold the bell with fingers on one hand, grab the hub of the prop with the other, slowly and gently turn the prop as pulling the prop, turn back and forth until the prop comes off. Or use a prop remover.
@@NickBurnsFPV "have the option" seems to mean that was not what was actually changed. I'm curious as to how changing to larger (and presumably heavier) frame and props increases flight time. This claim has also been made elsewhere, but it seems counterintuitive to me.
@@roberttirawat9628 The larger props are more efficient creating thrust. The weight difference is very minimal. Think of it in reverse. If we put smaller tires/wheels on a car should we expect the same mileage? Basically running 080x motors on 31mm props is under propping the motor.
Hey, do you have any tips to not break your whoop? I have the Eachine Trashcan and I have literally broken every part atleast once. The most recent broken part is the motor shaft. What am I doing wrong?
I don't suspect your doing anything wrong, it is a matter of time and learning crash avoidance. Its not that we totally avoid the crash but we decrease the impact. The alternative, might be to stay within our abilities and push to new skills a bit slower, flying higher can help...gives us more time to correct when we make an error.
I just bounced the lens straight to the table at a good speed, and after that my dvr was lagging. After that I opened it to see if there was something loose but I couldn’t spot anything. After reassembling the lagging was gone but it doesn’t look as good as it was and there is more interference. (I’m only flying 10m around myself without walls) you have experienced this also? Any idea what the problem could be? Gave the lens some bumpers now 😅
RE: SWAP DETAILS section. squeeshed the caddx baby turtle nano itsy bitsy spider HD Nano DVR whatever the frack it's called, but the BETAFPV half cousin version, with the ADC pin pad on it, into the 65mm orig frame. was able to get DVR OSD to work sorta but not really and was extremely inconsistent from battery to battery.(weird, right? i think i know why tho.) All OSD issues could be attributed to EMUFlight vs. BetaFlight. Trying that out later today. I've moved all the hardware into the Original trashcan frame. Same issue with motor mount warping the frame. Xactod small piece of the sidewall, fits perfect now. like a too small glove. i just read back through all this and realized people like yourself might appreciate bullet lists instead. I can confirm On the Mobula 6 original, "going to 3.0 or 2.9 v regardless of battery alert. because VSAG, like when tryin to get it back to your living room from the basement. then it dies. This still happens with EMUflight as well however reports are that HM have resolved the issue on this newer rev board." This occurs even more often now. No matter how high i set the battery alert too.(4.2v HAHA!) with the DVR recording the vsag is too much for my homegrown setup. also hahahaha. you said "MYSPACE"
I continue to to fly it from time to time, I did some "filming" with it over july 4th. The key to not burning micro/aio esc is to disarm quickly on crashing and not using turtle mode or taking off when the props can't spin.
I have a noob question.. Which batteries do you recommend? URUAV 3.8V 450mAh 80C/160C URUAV 3.8V 450mAh 50C/100C URUAV 3.8V 550mAh 80C/160C URUAV 3.8V 550mAh 50C/100C
pay no attention to the C rating, those aren't measurable from brand to brand. I use GNB batteries, cost and performance. We can pay more for others and get more or less performance.
I'm curious to know if using the 2 blade props from the mobilte 7 on this frame would increase battery life even more? I know it would have less "grip" but if it increases flight time it might be a useful trade-off in some situations.
@@NickBurnsFPV Wow! thanks for the reply and thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it. I'm just getting into the hobby and your videos are so informative and helpful. Cheers 👍
Hi great video! Thanks. I did my upgrade to 75mm and now just get a runaway warning when I try and take off. It does throttle up but not enough to lift off before the runaway warning shuts it down. Any guidance? Thanks in advance.
We likely have the motors rotating the wrong direction. Take the props off and make sure each motor spins in the direction betaflight shows the arrow circling each motor. Also make sure the props are on correctly. the high side of the prop will be the leading edge and should be leading the direction of motor rotation.
Looks good. My Mob6 HD is in the mail. I also orders the V3 frame and the props. The props you linked have a 1.5mm shaft and the specs for the Mob6 HD say its moters have a 1mm shaft...... Is that correct? (Edit: spelling)
I would suggest going straight for the cinefun, no work to swap frames and straight to flying. The cinefun also has a more durable frame. The downside is the xt30 on the batteries. We either have to buy those specific batteries to put xt30 on our own/other batteries.
@@NickBurnsFPV is it enough to put an xt30 connector on a battery that had ph2.0... or can the size AWG of battery cable be a problem?? Not sure there are always available the original 650mAh 1s with XT30. What would you do? Could a 600/650 tattu gnb etc battery be better than your GNB 520? I saw also the Alien battery on Moblite7 Thanks
@@NickBurnsFPV i also have another question ... Cinefun's motors and flight board have the same connectors as the Mobula6 / 7 or other common whoop? If I break something at least I will be able to do a new build with a Split 3 and maybe jst ph 2.0
@@King-gp4ub We can put xt30 on the ph2.0 battery. The awg of the wire isn't an issue with 1s voltage. Better is always relative, a larger battery can result in longer flight time, but not always, there is a battery weight where the flight time doesn't continue to climb.
I would guess the yaw washout was from the gemfan 3 blade props. I couldn't run them on my mobula 7 because of it. Hard yaw turns would cause washout resulting in it losing some altitude. I changed to 3 blade king kong props 40mm, got from Grayson hobbies, but no longer on there site. They are the best 3 blade ive found for mobula 7. I would guess they would be great on this conversation also.
hi nick! quick question please. this worked great but I cracked my lens after. is there a way to replace the lens only without buying the whole camera? thanks!
Does converting to a 75mm frame change the 1900KV vs. 2500KV motor debate? Is the 2500KV better for the larger props or are the issues largely the same as with the 65mm frame?
Nick Burns so 25000kv would be the way to go for this? I am currently using the 19000kv motors but when i buy the 75mm frame I might as well get the motors as well if they are worth it!
Does anybody know if any of the Mockula tunes would work with this conversion? My Mobula6 with PMB-Emu Mockula6 tune flies so well I want to try to get this 6.5HD mod to fly like it. But after watching Nick flying through the house with stock tune, I'm being reminded it's the pilot not the machine...
Hey Nick, so I got the gemfan props but didn't notice i got the 1.5mm ones... Do you have an idea on how I could get these to work or am I screwed to order the 1mm ones and wait an eternity :D. Thanks!
Was there much of a difference in installing on a V3 trashcan frame as compared to a V2 frame? I'm wondering what other frame I could use to avoid the issue with the micro-USB plug.
The installation won't be much different, the components on 95% of "whoop" frames all have the same dimensions. The main difference is the weight, performance and durability. Performance will be a bit less, due to the weight, but the durability will be much better, I have yet to break on of the v3/trashcan frames.
Why update betaflight? I find that to be a mistake for so many. You will need to re-tune or find someone with a tune. I do not update betaflight on well flying quads, it can keep us from having fun.
Thank you for making great videos, Nick! Have you tried this same conversion with the meteor 65 hd, I’m thinking of trying it but don’t want to break anything
@@NickBurnsFPV haha I didn’t realize that they have props with different shaft sizes.. I’m really new to the hobby. I did end up ordering proper propellers and did the conversion. It flies soo much better now! Thank you again for making great and informative videos:) have you tried the Forj yet? Stuff looks interesting
@@foodandfunthings8298 Great, good to hear your enjoying it. I have not used the Forj yet. I am sure when I break one of my nightly whoops I will give it a go.
Nick, Can you advise on a good alternative to the run cam split 3 nano? I find them to be not very robust as you had told me before. After having lenses poping off in simple crashes Im intetested in a different camera.
@@NickBurnsFPV yes that would be my preference. I know you have tested many cameras so seeking your advice. Would the caddx baby turtle be a good replacement?
@@FpvBudgetBuilds hmm. if the split 3 nano/lite didn't work out the alternatives are going to weigh more as that one reduced the camera housing. The other would be the caddx baby turtle. I don't know if we will find it any more robust but maybe as it does have the camera housing that the split 3 doesn't.
one more question I am very new to this bought a sky zone cobra s would like to order some antennas now I'm learning that it's RHCP or LHCP i bought mobula lite 7 and mobula 6 version 2 do you have any idea if the antenna onboard those whoops are RHCP or LHCP?? does it matter for tiny whoops as well ?so much to learn its frustrating
I am using the stock betaflight version 3.5.7, and the stock pid from the mobula 6 HD which is available here www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2020/07/24/diff-documents-for-mobula6-hd/
Great video @Nick Burns! Just completed my swap out onto the V2 frame and got my V3 frame this morning. Did you adjust your PIDs when you went 75mm? I seem to get a lot of prop wash and instability though?
@@NickBurnsFPV That helped! Thanks Nick. Just got to learn a bit more about tuning PIDs... Only been flying a couple of weeks so far. But loving it! Thanks for all the great content. :)
I just completed the transfer today also, and I’m having the same issue. Tons of prop wash and not great stability. Using the V3 frame. I’m going to play with the PIDs a bit and see if I can make it a little better
Hello Nick. I have the same mobula 6hd dsm2/dsmx version. Out of the box I was able to bind it to my transmitter but would not arm. I followed the update firmware instructions and after the update, the binding light doesn't turn on and there is a solid red light on the flight controller. I can connect to betaflight and everything works except the receiver. Wondering if you have any idea what's going on here. Thank you .
Sounds like we need to bind again. I believe we need to be on the configuration page and select spi for the receiver and frsky_d for the protocol. then save, and go to the cli and type bind_rx. If bind_rx doesn't work try bind_spi_rx
@@NickBurnsFPV Hello Nick and thank you for your help. I did as you told me and it says bind_rx not supported and bind_spi_rx unknown command. Also noticed that even if I save and reboot, settings are not saved. Thanks again for your time.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thankyou for your answer: it is true: some of the motor connectors collides with the frame. Anyway also I now have a mob 6to7 "Nick Burns Model". Thankyou. Just 5 minutes ago I discovered how much important is the throttle percent indicator on the display and how t use it in throttle expo setup. Tomorrow new esperiments! Thanks again. Have a nice fly :)
If the shafts are getting damaged I would suggest moving to 1102 with 1.5mm shaft. The new motors have been good, I don't feel much of a flight difference.
Has anyone tried this with the M7HD Microheli carbon frame? Where's the guy who made an upside-down pusher out of this? That would be great for me, as I'm into video footage more than speed or tricks.
It had to be in Louis Hortoda !!!!! He is a friend of mine I meant I don’t know I think over a year ago he’s an awesome dude and he is super knowledged !!!!! 👌👌👌👌👌👌
8:16 I purchased my mobula6 around January and It exhibits the low voltage complete reset that you say has been deemed 'defective'. I purchased it from banggood. I recall months ago contacting happymodel about the problem and they said I should buy a replacement. Is there anyway I can get it replaced now that it is classified as defective
I don't work for any company. Getting a replacement would need to come from the manufacturer or reseller. Also, I don't suggest flying below 3v on any battery as that harms the battery.
I did this conversion with a Mob7 V3 frame and I am getting tons of Jello. I think I narrowed it down to the motor connectors of the Mob6 board is touching the frame, but I am not completely sure. I carved off some sections of the frame where it was hitting and I'll test tomorrow. I bought a V2 frame at the same time just in case, but if you have any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them!
before the transition was the quad flying smooth? Did we do anything other than move the components? Flash Betaflight? If we don't recall, I would check motors for debris and bend shafts, use fresh props, and drop PIDS by 10 or more.
@@NickBurnsFPV flight was smooth before hand, no other changes other than component swaps. I flew like 2 packs on the 65mm frame and then simply swapped it over to the 75mm frame and bigger props. I haven't even plugged it into a PC yet. I'll comment again when fly it in a bit.
@@AMBCross Also check that the clip on the bottom of the motor can rotate freely, sometimes we might not get the motor exactly centered, the c clip rubs on the frame causing the motor to stutter and that could be another source of less than smooth flight. Check canopy and camera screws to ensure they are firm, we don't want to get heavy handed as that could damage the screw hold and make things worse.
@@NickBurnsFPV Awesome , thank you! I think I did isolate the issue. After a test flight or two, a single motor is now simply not spinning. I swapped it across the frame and it was the motor not the ESC. Time to contact support... Thank you again for all of your help!!
can someone explain why the Happymodel (HD Version) have so manny different prices? Everything is same but one starts with 115$ and goes up to 150$??? Where is the different and wich one is the best?
I am not sure I understand the framing of the question. When I look at it on banggood the price of the different versions are basically the same all at $130. If we change warehouses the price change is larger. If we get crossfire the price goes up as well. Typically when we have choices its mainly choosing the one with the receiver that our radio can use.
they generally come with purchased whoop boards, but I suspect that isn't an option. There are whoop accessory kits on some fpv webshops. That is about the only source I am aware of. I suspect they have an official name that would certainly help locate just them.
If you own a Mobula 6 HD and haven't done this yet you definitely should. Just made the change today and it is awesome. Throttle control is easier, flies faster and much more control. Surprisingly good even on the GNB 300mah battery although it needs tape to keep it in. Enjoying this more than my Mobula 7 on 2s.
75mm is definitely the sweet spot for me. I loved the M7, and I still do. We are happy together for over one and a half years.
Stay safe everyone ✌🏼😄
The HD recording is wonderful. Super impressed with the way you throw this little drone around. You hooked me! 😊
Thanks for this video on converting to a 75mm frame! I just got the meteor 65 hd and am doing a similar conversion. For whoop frame repairs I use tiny strips of Tyvek building wrap to bridge my breaks. I put the glue on the broken area then lay the Tyvek down over the break lapping about 1 cm on each side. I think this makes a stronger joint. Since the Tyvek is very thin it adds very little thickness to the repair area. I have never had one fail. I use E-6000 but I imagine Welder would be great too.
I've seen dozens of your videos,and the way you rip the house and yard never ceases to amaze me.Hopefully this combo of parts will become available stateside soon,BG estimates close to 2 months ship time.Looks like a sweet setup.
Just takes time and practice. Thankfully our practice is fun. I can't imagine it would take two months, is that maybe due to many pre orders? I have seen a number of FB posts of people receiving their m6 HD
Looks like a great backyard flyer! My house is too small and my yard is a fair bit smaller than yours, but love the performance/flight time! Also, that RunCam looks like such winner! Thanks for the conversion vid, Nick
I just did this mod today on my Mob 6 hd. Only got to do a test battery, but it seems like fun. I think I have a #3 motor going out so time for more parts 😁.
Thank you for this video Nick👍👍 🤙
back again after one of my motors separated itself from the hoop (all 3 arms broke off) time for the 75mm upgrade - really glad you made this video cause i would be lost otherwise
3 days after my mobula 6 hd arrived, the battery cage has already broken. Granted, the battery is still held in, it was the top supports that separated it from the board that have snapped. Guess I'll be upgrading to 75mm sooner than i thought lol. Glad for this video so I'll know what I'm doing.
Hi Nick, thanks for creating this Video which is very informative and inspiring. I just have a concerning thing to check with you and hopefully I could get answered....
I have modified my M6HD in pretty much the same way that you did to yours, however if I fly very wildly, the OSD currency peak can get up to about 11A , am I risking damaging the 5A BUILT-IN ESC?
I am using 20000KV motors with double blades.
Thanks
Whoever decided to go with the hunter green in the kitchen.......they nailed it❤❤❤❤
Finally did it and I love it! Flying with all my old 1s Emax batteries is awesome too, I have a bunch of them sitting around.
You talked me into getting the mob6 hd. Buying it now. Thanks Nick!
Thats solid hd footage. Crazy that its stock 6 pids. Is that acro or angle mode?
acro
Thank you so much for this video. Just finished upgrading my Mobula6 HD with the M7 v3 frame. I know is a gram or two heavier but was surprised of other side benefits (the SD card and the video board control ports are easier to access!). Also, I know you mentioned the holes for the motors not lining up 100% on the v2 frame. The v3 was perfect.
In addition, I flashed Betaflight 4.2 and JESC, my cruising style flight time is 5+ mins! (w/ gnb 520mah). I'm using Gemfan 3 blade props you suggested but was wondering if the 1636 will improve flight time and/or performance an extra notch?
I ordered the Gemfan 1636 1mm to give'em a try. What you think I should be expected?
The 4 blade props will shorten flight time and give more "grip" in turns.
@@NickBurnsFPV Thank you!!!
Great info. Well done video. I'm using the Tiny Whoop HV lipos with the BT 2.0 connectors on my home built Meteor65. Very good performing lipos.
Thanks Nick, happy flying. 🤓
Nice flight!!! I ordered a months ago still waiting for mine to ship but I can’t wait.. I will show flight on my channel. Not sure if I will do upgrade or not, we will see...
I finally got the right props to try this and.....DO IT, MOD THE MOB. It flies sooooo much better in a 75mm fame and bigger props. Amazing! Thanks.
Gday Nick, very cool way to transform a hd mob 6, nice work mate.👍🛸
I was very impressed with how the M6 flew. You were ripping it around in that video. I was also impressed w/ the video of the M6HD, but not how it flew or the very limited flight time. The extra 6-7g makes a big difference. The HD on a bigger frame is a great idea. Also, I wouldn't have to buy a bunch more batteries.
Question. Since the screws are long could you put a washer/shim or two between the frame and the board. Then slide the rubber grommet on and add a spacer on top of the post that would slide inside the rubber grommet. I'm talking 2mm tops. If needed, you could always get a longer screw. That should move the usb port up as well as give a little more clearance for the motor connectors. I cant really tell from the video if that would work. Best option would be for them to make a 75mm V3 1S frame. Call your Peeps because you have the best of both with this mod. Love your videos, thanks.
Adding a washer or shim to get some usb clearance is doable with the long screws. The only concern I would have is the durability of the mounts the screw goes in, if we have less screw in the mount it could mean less mount durability...maybe.
Mr. Nick Sir, I would appreciate your input on my dilemma. I have purchased a used Mobula 6 HD. Previous owner says it has either a bad motor or a bad FC (I don't have it yet to troubleshoot - literally on the slow boat). Either way, something will be getting replaced. I have been watching your review videos of the mobula whoops. Is upgrading the mobula 6 (HD) to a mobula 7 frame and props still a suggested improvement? I just happen to have a NBD Cockroach 75 frame (the standard, not the extreme durability) - what are your thoughts on upgrading the mobula 6 hd to the Cockroach? I cannot find many reviews on the Cockroach at all. I like that it has a carbon backbone. I'm not concerned with making the lightest whoop ever - durability is more important to me. So... questions with all this background info:
* Is upgrading the mobula 6 HD to the mobula 7 frame/props still the best upgrade you can do?
* Would using the NBD Cockroach 75 frame be a suitable alternative to the mobula 7 frame?
*If one of the motors is bad on my mobula 6 HD, should I replace it with another HappyModel 0802 19000kv, or upgrade to different motors?
* If the FC is bad, should I buy a replacement mobula 6 HD fc, or is there a better one to use in your opinion?
* How can I support you more than just subscribing to your channel? Do you have a Patreon?
Thank you so much for all you do. You are one of my favorite content creators, and the first place I look for reviews when considering a new (or used) purchase.
For durability I would suggest either using the frame and carbon brace you have or using the mobula 7 v3/Eachine trashcan frame. I think you will get more stable footage from the carbon bracing frame though. If the motor is bad I would stick with the same specification of motor unless your comfortable tuning the pids in betaflight. I think staying with the same board is also a good choice, unless again your comfortable pid tuning. If you are it really opens up the possibilities in our AIO to choose. I would likely get something more recent that we can add our own receiver to, like the crazybee f4 pro v3. I do have a patreon, its is linked way down at the bottom of the video descriptions. Don't feel overly compelled to join patreon. I read all comments and messages regardless of who is sending. I try to help everyone as much as I can. Although patreon does give you access to the discord server I have setup. Its a pretty small group on discord, ranging from new to veterans.
Thank you for your video! Could you please share your PID tuning and filters settings for the improved Modula6 HD?
This is a fairly dated video. I believe in the video I state that i didn't change the pids from the mobula 6 HD. the mobula 6 HD pids and other settings can be found on the happymodel.cn support website.
Great timing as I have been thinking about a 75mm change ever since I ordered the hd. All over it Nick!!👍👍 Great minds think alike!😂 Thanks again!👍👍👊👊
Great vid as always sir....lol...you speak and I’ve got a new project! 🤬 I think I’m going to order two and transition my Meemo build (check out PMB vid...it’s hands down my best flying quad) with one of them...question: do you think four bladed HQ/Avan/ or the original Mob7 or Trashcan props would drop the efficiency much? I’m a park cruiser/ proximity type so always looking for max flight times? Kudos as always...looking forward to the next
For flight time less blades generally means more flight time. I don't think there is a 40mm Avan prop. The newHQ triblades are pretty good. Not sure if they are super efficient or not.
Thank you for your video. I converted my mobula6 HD and like it. What is your opinion about the lowest safe voltage for 1S LiPo and Lipo HV battery?
Depends on the battery, but I generally find if I move to land at 3.3v when I disarm the battery will be at about 3.5v.
Thanks for this video Nick! I just upgraded my mobula 6 hd into a trashcan frame. Simple, and getting over 4 min flights. Might be longer, but for some reason the camera goes black after 4 min or so.... Ever see this? P s. What is your policy on video link in comments?
Its likely we are running the battery to low and the camera can't be powered. We need to bring it into land at or around 3.5v per cell. I don't have a linking policy but youtube thinks any link submitted is spam and is held until I approve it.
I've cracked a couple of v3 frames with mobula 7 HD, my friend also broke two with a trashcan.
It's either one of the propguards or the battery tray and it's surroundings - it's just horrible quality. The M7HD canopy is also really easy to break.
My M7HD is was much more repair and bodging than flying, but that was my first quad to be honest. Motors are also quite delicate - I've had two or three now that had their wires broken off just outside of the coils while airborne - fixed them, one got broken off again and now it's been sitting on my desk in agony for a few months.
Nice! So I guess this kinda validates my idea of just sticking a runcam split lite on my old Mob7. I do hope it comes out in july.
Got the normal mobula 6 recently, lots of fun. Those fatshark goggles you sent me still serving me well, thanks again!
Nice, great to hear giveaway items are being used. Thank you
What do you think about the 24k version of the MOB6 motors for the 75mm conversion? Trade offs? Any value in having a little more torque? Would the efficiency suffer too much to make it worthwhile? These things are fine line power:weight:efficiency....just curious...I’ll probably fiddle with both since I took your earliest advice and bought 4 Mob6 (2x19k and 2 x 24k) and have been parting them out for Frankenbuilds! Aside from the board erase issue they have good components...Other big issue is after a few hundred packs (read crashes) they always seem to induce jello that’s difficult to correct no matter how much crap you cram in the frame or torque down components....
It will increase the top end performance and also decrease flight time comparatively. The decreased torque will likely come to play in the most aggressive of turns, or crash avoidance.
Great video, now I see they have a crossfire edition of the mob6 hd,,, how far could it go with your mod? I just got a spi xm. Version but now I want crossfire... The nano split fpv image really is great,,,, puts the turtlev2 to shame
I really couldn't say how far. That would likely be the limit of the video reception in the specific flying environment. In short if clear video, a long long way.
@Nick Burns ... my conversion came out looking great! V2 frame! But now i have a funny wobble when I fly in a strait line (indoors, no wind) I tried to fix it by flashing 4.2 on the flight controller, and updated the esc so I could use RPM filtering (Dshot 300) Kept the stock pids and I am using the triblade gemfan props you recommended. Do you think I can fix this with a slight adjustment in pids, or did I possibly dammage something when I transferred over my components? (bent prop shaft, loose motor wire ect) Any advise is welcome! Thanks for the awesome vids!
I can't speak to the new betaflight version and rpm filtering. I would lean towards a bent shaft causing the wobbles.
Nicely done Nick !
Same issue with the micro SD on mine...
Now I have the 85mm conversion to do 😉👊
Great video! Do the reversed props provide a better flying? ( I mean the ccw and cw placement which i see is different)
in whoops props out is generally better
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you! Do you change to that setup in every whoop you show us?
@@apostolisioannou4073 No, I don't change to props out for all of them. I do in those that I build. I find there isn't a downside to props out.
Just did this upgrade and it's a monster now. Am I hurting anything using 80C 1S batteries?
No, the C rating on batteries isn't a standard, more marketing than anything.
Hi Nick Amazing work, how did you install the 40 mm Gamfan 1.0mm prop on the 0.8mm motor shaft?!? thank you
Pretty sure the shafts are 1mm.
How much is the PID setting? It's very beautiful.
The pids are the stock mobula 6 hd pid settings, which can be found on the happymodel.cn website.
Thanks Nick! You're tops.
► Also, support RaceDayQuads everyone! They're CHEAPER than BangGood or Amazon, and they're right here in the USA. ($12.70 for the V3 frame and GemFan props shipped, versus $17.72 from BangGood or $18.98 from Amazon Prime) Plus the guys at RDQ are responsive, communicate well, are genuinely nice, and stand behind what they sell if you have any trouble.
► My first purchase from them was my Mobula6 about 4 months ago, and it was such a great experience + great price that I'm definitely looking to them whenever I can for future purchases!!
I wish there was a shop like RDQ here in Europe :/
Nick, I have a Moby7. I ordered a RunCma Split 3 Nano Woop. What do you think a good stragedy would be for mounting the Split 3 on it. The Moby's VTX is in the AIO camera, right? So do you think a Moby 6 canopy and a micro VTX would get me in the air? Or is it more complicated than that. What if I was to order the Moby6 Flight Controler? Thank you for all the awesome Micro video'z. Best wishes from Central Texas!
Get the mob6hd canopy , it comes with the mount we need for the split cam. If you looking at multiple parts it might be worth getting the entire mob6 hd, if the price difference isn’t huge. Then you have spare parts
@@NickBurnsFPV Thank you so much for the reply...
Nick did you try V3 frame? From my experience I can say that M6 + M7 V2 frame flies OK without PID tuning but M6 + M7 V3 frame has serious oscillations.
I have not tried the v3 on this combination of components. I have in the case of a typical non HD whoop.
Yep I’ve had the same issue...I used the same V3 frame an it’s just not as smooth (I did an 85mm conversion as well...but bigger 1103s...smooth as silk)...my 75mm transitions is ok but something is not right...then again..higher expectations...these MOB6 fly like rails compared to the MOB6 / Trashcan ever did out of the box!
@@rickdeckard7549 Rick, what do you mean by "these MOB6"? Are you referring specifically to the Mobula 6 HD, or are you saying the Mobula 6 series in general flies better than the Mobula 7 / Trashcan ever did? I'm not following what you meant...but I need to know. Thx.
Thanks for the tape tip. I lost a card and did not know what to do in the future.
Hey, nice Video. It is nessary to change settings in Betaflight regarding the PID. Or for the motors because these would be warm.
For the 40mm probs is the 3 blade better like 4 blades?
Thx
We can change pids in the osd from the goggles as well. If the motors are warm what betaflight version are you running? As to props and whats better, it depends on what you want. Less blades more flight time, less "grip" in turns. More blades more thrust and grip, but less flight time.
@@NickBurnsFPV
Hey..yes of course over the Goggle. I have the BF 10.7.0
At the moment I have the iFlight Alpha A65 and the Mob 6HD upgrade is a Future project. Thx for the very helpful probs Info.
@@silentjack4446 In this video I left the bf version and pids the same as it was on the mob 6 hd
@@NickBurnsFPV
OK thanks
Good morning, I would appreciate your opinion very much, I want a small drone to fly indoors and outdoors, more in indoors, I would like it to have HD, what would be better for you ?, mobula6 HD with frame 75mm, mobula 7 hd with Runcam SPLITE3 and KV9000 motors, or a cinefun (more expensive) or other whoop?, I would appreciate your opinion on which would be better, thanks in advance, greetings!
Yup, that was me that recommended the Forj thermoplastic tape. I finally decided to give myself an FPV handle a couple of weeks ago. Just an FYI, I use a couple strips of the tape, one to wrap around the duct with the fibers going vertical and then another strip horizontally on the outside of the duct. Another horizontal one ,if the clearance allows it, on the inside of the duct. Another thing, the tape eventually released from the duct, but didn't break. So I added a touch of glue and reheated the tape and that has been holding up well. Great mod, I really want that camera!
I hate how your house is always so clean haha
lol. We do have regular pickups. Mom and I are often picking up as we move from spot to spot in the house.
Should I get the Mobula6 or the HD version? I am so indecisive. I am a beginner into the hobby and the reason I am thinking of not getting the HD version is because I heard that it flies not as good and lesser flight time than the non-HD version. Help!
Best to start with a lighter version, non hd. Less weight will have less impact force when we crash and therefore be more likely not to damage the quad, or damage it less with each crash.
Hey Nick. I am looking to get my first HD whoop / micro not dji. Must have onboard HD recording any suggestions? Mainly flying outside around my yard. Thanks.
Anything catch your eye? Whoops generally don't fly outside as well as non whooped quads.
@@NickBurnsFPV I am eyeing the Mobula 6 HD seems like it's a good choice or the GEPRC Thinking P16 3S CineWhoop w/ Caddx Loris 4K. Which would you go with? I like the price point of the Mobula 6 but, I am still new to flying some what my favorite quad so far is the TinyHawk I love ripping it around the yard. But, I want something that records HD onboard.
@@savagebreaksrc1778 I would suggest the P16, its more durable and more capable outside. But if you plan to fly primarily inside or in very confined spaces the mobula 6 HD will be a better option. 3s inside takes some pretty good throttle management.
Hi !! Great job. I love your videos. Can you explain how to safely remove gemfan props ??
Hold the bell with fingers on one hand, grab the hub of the prop with the other, slowly and gently turn the prop as pulling the prop, turn back and forth until the prop comes off. Or use a prop remover.
Did I miss it - are you changing batteries, too? How does larger frame & props result in longer fly time?
We do have the option to run larger batteries. I believe in this video am using a 450 1s GNB battery.
@@NickBurnsFPV "have the option" seems to mean that was not what was actually changed. I'm curious as to how changing to larger (and presumably heavier) frame and props increases flight time. This claim has also been made elsewhere, but it seems counterintuitive to me.
@@roberttirawat9628 The larger props are more efficient creating thrust. The weight difference is very minimal. Think of it in reverse. If we put smaller tires/wheels on a car should we expect the same mileage? Basically running 080x motors on 31mm props is under propping the motor.
Hey, do you have any tips to not break your whoop? I have the Eachine Trashcan and I have literally broken every part atleast once. The most recent broken part is the motor shaft. What am I doing wrong?
I don't suspect your doing anything wrong, it is a matter of time and learning crash avoidance. Its not that we totally avoid the crash but we decrease the impact. The alternative, might be to stay within our abilities and push to new skills a bit slower, flying higher can help...gives us more time to correct when we make an error.
I just bounced the lens straight to the table at a good speed, and after that my dvr was lagging. After that I opened it to see if there was something loose but I couldn’t spot anything. After reassembling the lagging was gone but it doesn’t look as good as it was and there is more interference. (I’m only flying 10m around myself without walls) you have experienced this also? Any idea what the problem could be?
Gave the lens some bumpers now 😅
Is there any reason you are using gemfan1635 triblade instead of 1636 quadblade?
Thanks for great videos!
generally tri blade is more efficient than quad blade. Lower weight and less prop resistance.
Thanks for the info, I'll try it out.
Will these mods apply to the standard (non-HD) Mobula 6?
@@scottsalz6899 Absolutely.
RE: SWAP DETAILS section. squeeshed the caddx baby turtle nano itsy bitsy spider HD Nano DVR whatever the frack it's called, but the BETAFPV half cousin version, with the ADC pin pad on it, into the 65mm orig frame. was able to get DVR OSD to work sorta but not really and was extremely inconsistent from battery to battery.(weird, right? i think i know why tho.) All OSD issues could be attributed to EMUFlight vs. BetaFlight. Trying that out later today. I've moved all the hardware into the Original trashcan frame. Same issue with motor mount warping the frame. Xactod small piece of the sidewall, fits perfect now. like a too small glove. i just read back through all this and realized people like yourself might appreciate bullet lists instead.
I can confirm On the Mobula 6 original, "going to 3.0 or 2.9 v regardless of battery alert. because VSAG, like when tryin to get it back to your living room from the basement. then it dies. This still happens with EMUflight as well however reports are that HM have resolved the issue on this newer rev board." This occurs even more often now. No matter how high i set the battery alert too.(4.2v HAHA!) with the DVR recording the vsag is too much for my homegrown setup.
also hahahaha. you said "MYSPACE"
lol last line got me. Myspace used to be cool, I can't remember why it fell out of favor.
Nice upgrade brother!!! Wish i could fly my whoop from my hospital bed hahahaha!!!!
. SeNd iT
Hai nick. Just wondering if the mobula6 hd fc will strong enough not tu burn when change the frame... Thanks nick for the video
I continue to to fly it from time to time, I did some "filming" with it over july 4th. The key to not burning micro/aio esc is to disarm quickly on crashing and not using turtle mode or taking off when the props can't spin.
what receiver are u using. is it crossfire. you have amazing range
No frsky built into the board.
I have a noob question..
Which batteries do you recommend?
URUAV 3.8V 450mAh 80C/160C
URUAV 3.8V 450mAh 50C/100C
URUAV 3.8V 550mAh 80C/160C
URUAV 3.8V 550mAh 50C/100C
pay no attention to the C rating, those aren't measurable from brand to brand. I use GNB batteries, cost and performance. We can pay more for others and get more or less performance.
What is the low battery voltage that you land at? This seems to barely fly for 1min 30sec for me when I land at 3.3 volts.
I'm curious to know if using the 2 blade props from the mobilte 7 on this frame would increase battery life even more? I know it would have less "grip" but if it increases flight time it might be a useful trade-off in some situations.
less blades more efficiency. yes it will increase flight time.
@@NickBurnsFPV Wow! thanks for the reply and thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it. I'm just getting into the hobby and your videos are so informative and helpful. Cheers 👍
Awsome video thanks Nick!!
Hi great video! Thanks. I did my upgrade to 75mm and now just get a runaway warning when I try and take off. It does throttle up but not enough to lift off before the runaway warning shuts it down. Any guidance? Thanks in advance.
We likely have the motors rotating the wrong direction. Take the props off and make sure each motor spins in the direction betaflight shows the arrow circling each motor. Also make sure the props are on correctly. the high side of the prop will be the leading edge and should be leading the direction of motor rotation.
Looks good. My Mob6 HD is in the mail. I also orders the V3 frame and the props. The props you linked have a 1.5mm shaft and the specs for the Mob6 HD say its moters have a 1mm shaft...... Is that correct? (Edit: spelling)
ah yes, I have updated the link, but banggod doesn't show the 1mm hold any longer and the listing I found is out of stock. :(
@@NickBurnsFPV ah no worries, I have some 4blade replacement for the Mob7, I'll try those. Love you channel BTW keep it up eh.
So what's the best set of props you used on this? 3 blade or 4 blade (I heard mix results).... ? Thanks for any info
I prefer tri blade props, they are good balance between grip in turns and efficiency.
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you....
Hi, do you prefer this solution or Eachine Cinefun (always with Split3)? Thank you 👋
I would suggest going straight for the cinefun, no work to swap frames and straight to flying. The cinefun also has a more durable frame. The downside is the xt30 on the batteries. We either have to buy those specific batteries to put xt30 on our own/other batteries.
@@NickBurnsFPV is it enough to put an xt30 connector on a battery that had ph2.0... or can the size AWG of battery cable be a problem??
Not sure there are always available the original 650mAh 1s with XT30. What would you do? Could a 600/650 tattu gnb etc battery be better than your GNB 520? I saw also the Alien battery on Moblite7
Thanks
@@NickBurnsFPV i also have another question ... Cinefun's motors and flight board have the same connectors as the Mobula6 / 7 or other common whoop? If I break something at least I will be able to do a new build with a Split 3 and maybe jst ph 2.0
@@King-gp4ub We can put xt30 on the ph2.0 battery. The awg of the wire isn't an issue with 1s voltage. Better is always relative, a larger battery can result in longer flight time, but not always, there is a battery weight where the flight time doesn't continue to climb.
@@King-gp4ub Most motor connectors are the same with the exception of the newbeedrone motors and AIO.
I would guess the yaw washout was from the gemfan 3 blade props. I couldn't run them on my mobula 7 because of it. Hard yaw turns would cause washout resulting in it losing some altitude. I changed to 3 blade king kong props 40mm, got from Grayson hobbies, but no longer on there site. They are the best 3 blade ive found for mobula 7. I would guess they would be great on this conversation also.
Finding a combination to eliminate yaw washout can be a challenge.
hi nick! quick question please. this worked great but I cracked my lens after. is there a way to replace the lens only without buying the whole camera? thanks!
I don't see the lens listed on the runcam.com site. I would send them an email to see if they might sell one to you. Worth a quick email.
Does converting to a 75mm frame change the 1900KV vs. 2500KV motor debate? Is the 2500KV better for the larger props or are the issues largely the same as with the 65mm frame?
The issues are largely the same, even on bigger props, the low end torque might be more predominant on 25k motors.
Nick Burns so 25000kv would be the way to go for this? I am currently using the 19000kv motors but when i buy the 75mm frame I might as well get the motors as well if they are worth it!
Thank you for your great review and tryouts. Butbutbut the shaft diameter of the Mobula motors is 1 mm en the Gemfan hole is 1,5 mm. How you do this?
gemfan props come in both 1mm and 1.5mm hole sizes.
Awesome test flight!🖐️🤠👍
Does anybody know if any of the Mockula tunes would work with this conversion? My Mobula6 with PMB-Emu Mockula6 tune flies so well I want to try to get this 6.5HD mod to fly like it. But after watching Nick flying through the house with stock tune, I'm being reminded it's the pilot not the machine...
lol. I don't think I have seen him work a tune for this conversion.
Hey Nick, so I got the gemfan props but didn't notice i got the 1.5mm ones... Do you have an idea on how I could get these to work or am I screwed to order the 1mm ones and wait an eternity :D. Thanks!
It might not work well but dental floss might help close the gap but we really need to get the 1mm version
This camera on a toothpick is the thing I'm most excited about but that is crazy impressive how much you managed to increase the flight time 👍
Cant find it now but Nick said 3 or 4 blade props were more efficient?
Jumping into FPV so early stages of learning here.
less blades are more efficient.
Was there much of a difference in installing on a V3 trashcan frame as compared to a V2 frame? I'm wondering what other frame I could use to avoid the issue with the micro-USB plug.
The installation won't be much different, the components on 95% of "whoop" frames all have the same dimensions. The main difference is the weight, performance and durability. Performance will be a bit less, due to the weight, but the durability will be much better, I have yet to break on of the v3/trashcan frames.
Can you just plug in the 450mA batterie instead of the 350 mA battery or do i have to change anything? Could it hold an even bigger battery?
the battery tray in the 75mm frame can hold up to a 650, I have seen the 850 1s battery, but I don't know its size.
Having some less responsive flying with this I've updated the beta flight version to 4 something. Looking for the dump to see version.
Why update betaflight? I find that to be a mistake for so many. You will need to re-tune or find someone with a tune. I do not update betaflight on well flying quads, it can keep us from having fun.
hi Nick, do you think it would perform better with the battery GNB 1S 550mAh 4.35V 30C/60C LiHV?
better really depends what better is to the individual. It will have more flight time but be less agile due to more weight.
Thank you for making great videos, Nick! Have you tried this same conversion with the meteor 65 hd, I’m thinking of trying it but don’t want to break anything
I haven't tried the conversion on that quad. I would expect it to work out similarly.
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you for replying! I just tried the conversion... but the 0802 betafvp motors don’t fit the props that come on the meteor 75:(
@@foodandfunthings8298Different shaft size?
@@NickBurnsFPV haha I didn’t realize that they have props with different shaft sizes.. I’m really new to the hobby. I did end up ordering proper propellers and did the conversion. It flies soo much better now! Thank you again for making great and informative videos:) have you tried the Forj yet? Stuff looks interesting
@@foodandfunthings8298 Great, good to hear your enjoying it. I have not used the Forj yet. I am sure when I break one of my nightly whoops I will give it a go.
Nick,
Can you advise on a good alternative to the run cam split 3 nano? I find them to be not very robust as you had told me before. After having lenses poping off in simple crashes Im intetested in a different camera.
Sticking with a cam that records on the quad?
@@NickBurnsFPV yes that would be my preference. I know you have tested many cameras so seeking your advice. Would the caddx baby turtle be a good replacement?
@@FpvBudgetBuilds hmm. if the split 3 nano/lite didn't work out the alternatives are going to weigh more as that one reduced the camera housing. The other would be the caddx baby turtle. I don't know if we will find it any more robust but maybe as it does have the camera housing that the split 3 doesn't.
@@NickBurnsFPV thank you for your insight. I might have to go with the baby turtle.
one more question I am very new to this bought a sky zone cobra s would like to order some antennas now I'm learning that it's RHCP or LHCP i bought mobula lite 7 and mobula 6 version 2 do you have any idea if the antenna onboard those whoops are RHCP or LHCP?? does it matter for tiny whoops as well ?so much to learn its frustrating
The antenna aren’t circular polarized, they are linear. So on the receiving end doesn’t matter but most use rhcp
@@NickBurnsFPV tnk u
Very informative Nick.. Absolutely get a thumbs up from me...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Can U share Your PID and rates for Mobula 6 HD ?
I am using the stock betaflight version 3.5.7, and the stock pid from the mobula 6 HD which is available here www.happymodel.cn/index.php/2020/07/24/diff-documents-for-mobula6-hd/
Great video @Nick Burns! Just completed my swap out onto the V2 frame and got my V3 frame this morning.
Did you adjust your PIDs when you went 75mm? I seem to get a lot of prop wash and instability though?
I didn't, but it could use a bit of a touch up. Probably need to turn down P and D some
@@NickBurnsFPV That helped! Thanks Nick. Just got to learn a bit more about tuning PIDs... Only been flying a couple of weeks so far. But loving it! Thanks for all the great content. :)
I just completed the transfer today also, and I’m having the same issue. Tons of prop wash and not great stability. Using the V3 frame. I’m going to play with the PIDs a bit and see if I can make it a little better
Hello Nick. I have the same mobula 6hd dsm2/dsmx version. Out of the box I was able to bind it to my transmitter but would not arm. I followed the update firmware instructions and after the update, the binding light doesn't turn on and there is a solid red light on the flight controller. I can connect to betaflight and everything works except the receiver. Wondering if you have any idea what's going on here. Thank you .
Sounds like we need to bind again. I believe we need to be on the configuration page and select spi for the receiver and frsky_d for the protocol. then save, and go to the cli and type bind_rx. If bind_rx doesn't work try bind_spi_rx
@@NickBurnsFPV Hello Nick and thank you for your help. I did as you told me and it says bind_rx not supported and bind_spi_rx unknown command. Also noticed that even if I save and reboot, settings are not saved. Thanks again for your time.
Hi nick, today I am going to perform the transformation. But... I haven't understood the purpose of the dremel usage on the behind of the frame :(
If I recall correctly its due to the motor connectors not lining up perfectly
@@NickBurnsFPV Thankyou for your answer: it is true: some of the motor connectors collides with the frame. Anyway also I now have a mob 6to7 "Nick Burns Model". Thankyou. Just 5 minutes ago I discovered how much important is the throttle percent indicator on the display and how t use it in throttle expo setup. Tomorrow new esperiments! Thanks again. Have a nice fly :)
did you also change the propellers?
Yes to 40mm
how are the new motors ?
i damaged so many mob 7 motors...
If the shafts are getting damaged I would suggest moving to 1102 with 1.5mm shaft. The new motors have been good, I don't feel much of a flight difference.
Has anyone tried this with the M7HD Microheli carbon frame? Where's the guy who made an upside-down pusher out of this? That would be great for me, as I'm into video footage more than speed or tricks.
It had to be in Louis Hortoda !!!!!
He is a friend of mine I meant I don’t know I think over a year ago he’s an awesome dude and he is super knowledged !!!!! 👌👌👌👌👌👌
8:16
I purchased my mobula6 around January and It exhibits the low voltage complete reset that you say has been deemed 'defective'. I purchased it from banggood.
I recall months ago contacting happymodel about the problem and they said I should buy a replacement. Is there anyway I can get it replaced now that it is classified as defective
I don't work for any company. Getting a replacement would need to come from the manufacturer or reseller. Also, I don't suggest flying below 3v on any battery as that harms the battery.
Can I use the Mobula 7 V3 frame? I mean will it work the same as the V2 frame? It weighs 5.6 grams.
Yes, you can use that, the v3 will increase the weight so the performance and flight time won't be the same but that v3 frame is more durable.
I did this conversion with a Mob7 V3 frame and I am getting tons of Jello. I think I narrowed it down to the motor connectors of the Mob6 board is touching the frame, but I am not completely sure. I carved off some sections of the frame where it was hitting and I'll test tomorrow. I bought a V2 frame at the same time just in case, but if you have any suggestions, I would greatly appreciate them!
before the transition was the quad flying smooth? Did we do anything other than move the components? Flash Betaflight? If we don't recall, I would check motors for debris and bend shafts, use fresh props, and drop PIDS by 10 or more.
@@NickBurnsFPV flight was smooth before hand, no other changes other than component swaps. I flew like 2 packs on the 65mm frame and then simply swapped it over to the 75mm frame and bigger props.
I haven't even plugged it into a PC yet.
I'll comment again when fly it in a bit.
@@AMBCross Also check that the clip on the bottom of the motor can rotate freely, sometimes we might not get the motor exactly centered, the c clip rubs on the frame causing the motor to stutter and that could be another source of less than smooth flight. Check canopy and camera screws to ensure they are firm, we don't want to get heavy handed as that could damage the screw hold and make things worse.
@@NickBurnsFPV Awesome , thank you!
I think I did isolate the issue. After a test flight or two, a single motor is now simply not spinning. I swapped it across the frame and it was the motor not the ESC.
Time to contact support...
Thank you again for all of your help!!
@@AMBCross That stinks. Sorry to hear that. I hope that support can help get it sorted out.
Nice review!
That light is the best :D
that Forj Thermoplastic Tape looks interesting! Will you update your background picture with the Orqa?! :)
I do need to update the background picture. Thanks for the reminder.
@@NickBurnsFPV and a review! :) I know it's coming!
@@JeromeDemers yes, it is, I should move forward with the review. I have been holding out for the fpv connect to come through.
can someone explain why the Happymodel (HD Version) have so manny different prices? Everything is same but one starts with 115$ and goes up to 150$??? Where is the different and wich one is the best?
I am not sure I understand the framing of the question. When I look at it on banggood the price of the different versions are basically the same all at $130. If we change warehouses the price change is larger. If we get crossfire the price goes up as well. Typically when we have choices its mainly choosing the one with the receiver that our radio can use.
Can you please link exact batteries you have used with 75mm frame? Thanks a lot
this one bit.ly/2zqndmy
@@NickBurnsFPV thanks
Can I do the same updates to the normal Mobula 6 or even to the Meteor 65?
Sure, we only need larger 75mm frame and 40mm props.
where can you buy grommets for tiny whoop frames ??
they generally come with purchased whoop boards, but I suspect that isn't an option. There are whoop accessory kits on some fpv webshops. That is about the only source I am aware of. I suspect they have an official name that would certainly help locate just them.