For those consider doing a "belly wrap" install, here is a tip for working on the inside of the I-beams. If you have a wide enough piece of poly wrap, simply roll up the edges on a 1x2 firing strip and nail the firing strip to the floor joists right up against the I-beams. Leave enough wrap to get the sag you need to clear any plumbing hanging down. If you ever get a leak, you can simply pry loose the firing strips on both sides and drop down your insulation, fix your leak, replace any insulation if needed, and renail the firing strips to hold up your insulation. This job is always easier with the help of a friend, but using this method really makes it easier for one person. The same can be done on the outsides of the I-beams, nailing strips to the rim plate and joists next to the I-beam.
A million thanks! Your video is great and has been of tremendous help to me. I had a broken drain pipe ruin a ton of insulation under my trailer. Of course the plastic sheeting had been ruined also. Repair estimates from the big local insulation company were astronomical. Three kids and my not working is making $ tight. Thanks to you, I'm doing the repair myself and the "insulation blanket" technique is genius.
I had to do my home that had the same problem and damage as the home worked on in this video. I utilized your video as a starting point and refined it to a better way that was easier and more professional. It also looks great and is structurally strong and will never fail by sagging or separating The process is basically the same. Step one: Remove all sagging insulation and existing debris from under home and working area Step two: Measure the span between steel beams and cut 1" x 1" x (in my case 75") and span them approx. 10" to 12" apart from each other inside the beam. Step three: Secure wood supports to steel beam so they do not move or shift during the installation of the insulation. I first was going to silicone the wood to the steel beam but it proved to be a mess and really was not secure. It proved easier and stronger to put wood support in place and drill a 1/8" - 5/32" hole through steel under it. Then shoot a wood drive screw through the steel hole you drilled into the wood support and snug it up firmly. Step four: Cut insulation outside of the crawl space to size and drag under house and push it into area above wood supports you just installed to the steel beams. Remember to install your insulation with the paper back facing the ground. Simply push and pull insulation into area above wood slats until area is filled or covered and no air or gas can be seen. That's it..your done! You can install a final protection barrier of 6 mm tarp to stop any possible insects or critters by stapling the tarp directly to the wood supports you already installed to support the insulation. Without seeing your video I was going to do a patch job. It was so easy to do it as I mentioned I simply removed all insulation good or bad and completely did the process every where.
Anchors in joist....Why didn't I think of that? Making a blanket a tarp and spray adhesive...........Why didn't I think of that? I don't know but you just solved one of my repairs and wanted to say thanks.
@handsupbud thank you for watching, comments like yours make it worth doing these videos, this job was for an older person who bought this mobile home second hand, the floor was rotted out in several places from leaky plumbing and the heating duct work was in serious disrepair, replacing the insulation in the floor this way worked out well and he was very happy as I am for your comment, thnx again
that's genius ! i have been under many of these, and it is ALWAYS a nightmare i see people fretting moisture (and yes, they have a point) - but - i would be willing to bet the typical 30 yr old mobile home walls, windows, doors, and roof will allow enough unintended venting to wick off moisture well done sir
"i would be willing to bet the typical 30 yr old mobile home walls, windows, doors, and roof will allow enough unintended venting to wick off moisture" YOU GOT THAT RIGHT
Oh my gosh, so helpful. I have a man giving me an estimate to replace the insulation that the "critters" tore out. I will use this video to help me understand what the heck he is talking about! Great video, even I could understand it.
Wow, I realize the repair was to resolve a problem and with 15 inches of space to work in there is only so much you can do. However with these homes costing 50 to 150 thousand dollars it just sucks that they have no better method of insulation. I guess that's why there are so many that can't sell and others that get sold cheap. I wouldn't offer much for one after seeing this situation. Buyer be ware!
very dangerous blocking to hold up the trailer(mobile home).. cement blocks have no strength when placed with the holes on their sides, all their strength in when they are place with the holes verticle
Lol. These things have usually been in the same spot for 40 years.. Obv. The cinderblocks are doing just fine.. Just like all the toys r us trusses and studs. Been holding up to storms and snow loads no problem for the same amount of time just fine.. Buy a new house this day and age And in 5 years its sinking. Foundation leaks.. Mold issues. Drywalls cracking.. Etc etc. These old "flimsey" .."unsafe" shoe boxes arent build as bad as people think
@ROCKNTV1, Along the metal beams, how did you seal that up? Your method is great, but I cannot figure that last part out. (this being to keep out the critters and such.)
Great idea. All the condensation comments I think are negated by the fact that no matter how hard you try you just can't get an airtight seal with all the pipes, joists, and other crap in the way. Might give this a try
Some hardware stores sell a woven housewrap that can be used as an alternative to the factory belly wrap. It will serve the same purpose, except it will not repel rodents like the factory belly wrap which is coated so rodents will not want to chew through it. Of course some rodents chew through it anyway and this can be avoided simply by having solid skirting.
Bought a doubble wide got to replumb it and fix some insulation good video man I'll have to try it thankfully I got a bigger crawlspace than that tho lol
Thanks for posting! Any thoughts on properly installing bellypan insulation for the sake of moisture control? I could get the batts/plastic up there, but I'm worried about moisture buildup inside the insulation. I also feel like my place is so poorly insulated anything I invest in insulation I'd be getting a better payback for increasing my heat production instead, especially since I can't insulate the ceiling (the most important high-R value area).
It is always nice to get negative “feedback” from from a mental midget or armchair quarterback who never even set a foot on the field. If even a lower IQ individual listened to anything the man said, one could come to the conclusion that he has an older homeowner on a very limited income who he is just trying to help him out, most likely at a very discounted labor rate. With no limits on time, money, materials and all other resources, any repair or product can be made better. He did a great job(like he has stated, just like the factory built it), in a very tough work environment, met the homeowners budget, the repair was effective and hopefully made enough to cover his cost of helping somebody a little less fortunate out. This is tough work in a tough environment. I also think the video is fine and appropriate as it gives the viewer a sense of how hard the job is. He ain’t splitting an atom, just working hard in a tough spot. Some people would bitch about being hung with a dirty rope. Excellent video, I appreciate your insight, experience and craftsmanship. Best of luck always and may your nails always drive straight and your saw cuts be right the first time. Hope you came through the hurricane intact and good fortune comes your way as you help those who got hit hard.
very good idea thanks, I was just trying to figure out how to fix the insulation under my mom's double wide, about the same height and looks indenticle, thanks for the tip
Sounds like my mobile home. I had to replace the water heater and then another pipe decided to develop a pin hole lead right between the floor. Thanks for the video. I am trying to come up with some idea's.
I see why nobody wants to help me fix my subfloor problem lol. Great video. I have a 74 trailor with the same problem but mine was from a tub pipe leak. Trying to fix it from the inside but a lot needs to be replaced.
My old trailer has a belly tarp (torn, tattered and water logged.) I had to rip it out after my toilet sewer line froze off and the um......fluid backed up into the belly lining. It was a hard sub zero job that took me a week so I can completely relate to your predicament. Including the spiders-not mentioned but obvious.
i did not build the trailer, nor was a contracted to fix anything but the floor insulation, and water damage, but the trailer has been on these mounting points for 30 years, mr home owner neither warranted replacement or afford to do so. i did the floor insulation as requested. thnx
@london1817 You probably get some sort of through the wall ventilation fan if you did not want to deal with a through the roof style vent, but it should be close to the ceiling.
@MissMousy60 hello, the ductwork was very loosely connected at all its joints, at the registers in the floor, and at the plenum connections from the furnace. Over time, these have separated, allowing the the heat to escape into the area under the trailer floor, i fixed these. I used regular insulation of R-19 value, and installed it in the manor shown in the video. there is a diagram at the end of the video, hope that helps.
@s65maniac the area "above" the insulation i installed under the floor is heated. The moisture problem the home owner had was from leaky plumbing in the floor, not condensation. The area "under" a mobile home is cold and protected from the weather by a skirt and un insulated to prevent this.
God bless you for being able to work in cramped, creepy places like that! I wonder if technology has caught up yet to include lifts like the ones car mechanics use to make working on mobile homes much easier! Also, would putting a cement scratch coat underneath be too much to ask? Keep it cleaner and then you could also lay and wheel around on a dolly. Much easier!
My double wide has an issue, the walls sweat on the back walls (where the sun don't hit) and the humidity is 85% when the temp is 65 inside...its humid all the time...the insulation under nieth is good with the heavy black fabric/ tarp that it came with....I have no moisture barrior on ground....think I need that done?....Please help!....thanks...Rick.
I'm doing this process right now , but , a different approach . I've opted to remove all the stock insulation , and fill the 2x8 joists . 2 Choices , R28 or 31 is 8.5" thick . Except the bathroom area , I am keeping all the heavy black material . Cut one long slice down the middle , about 48-64" long for easy workability . Remove all existing blanket insulation . Install new batts in joists , pull black paper over and staple to joists . It's so much neater . For the plumbing and heating areas , I cut 2x8 plywood , and slid it in the cross frames , and insulated it with fiberglass R20 . I'm about 1/2 way so far . It was down to 14F last night . The finished area is so much warmer . No more cold spots in the bdrm , hallway or bathroom . Very impressed so far . Replacing that blanket is really just an easy out , total replacement rocks ! I also have R20 skirting now vs R5 , as I'm going towards the front . All panel board and original insulation in the walls has been replaced , vapor barriered . Roof is original still . To date , it is about $1000 for the floor in insulation(With addition) , about the same or less to redo the walls . Not cheap , and it's a major PITA to do , but in the end , comfort is king :) . My new furnace gets installed in 2 days . Bring on winter , I will be warm this year unlike the past 4 . I may attempt a video . Nothing on youtube like I'm doing
YOUNG MAN U ARE DOING GOOD JOB , U I USE ( INSULATION RIGIL BOARD ) BOARD COME IN DIFFERENT SIZE 1/2 " OR 3/4 " OR 1 " X 4 ' X 8 ' BE JUST LIKE A SHEET OF PLYWOOD / BETTER TO WORK WITH ! FOR MOBLIE HOME THANK U HAPPY NEW YEAR 2016
Thanks for posting what we've been avoiding too long. Time to do it before Michigan winter. Possums and cats coming in through hole, after your tarp and insulation lacing then we may have to add chicken wire. I wondered if foam tube pipe insulation cut to size on pipes before we do batting is just overkill .or ok we can be minus 15- 20 degrees in January
@itscool1968 the trailer skirt was damaged at the entrance i was working from, directly below the hot water heater which leaked and ruined the flooring. The home owner had some one install a heat tape on these pipes to keep them from freezing, and used a cheap extension cord to power it. It had melted and caught fire. I fixed the floor repaired the leaky plumbing, insulated all with higher R Value insulation and repaired the skirting.
lol, everything about the crawl space under a mobile home or trailer says work, Never have i been under one of these floor repair projects, especially an insulation job and had so much fun ;P I swear they all look the same once you get past the skirt ing.
The plastic backing on the insulation will cause condensation at different times of year. Here's why: During the summer the crawl space will be cold. The mobile home will be warm. The plastic makes a semi-permiable membrane between... just like the glass on a cold glass of water. The water will condense on the warm side - like the glass... but that side has no ventilation and will make a great home for mold.
I get WHY it will do this, most people can likely figure out why. Why not provide the proper way to do it so that people viewing the video/comment can see that? Otherwise it just seems like a criticism without any constructive element.
@london1817 that weird bud, you should defiantly have a ventilation fan in your bathrooms we call them "stink fans". As far as your crawl space,, in the north east , you can NOT leave these open, as the plumbing would freeze quick. We use what is called skirting, this can be purchased or homemade but the plastic ones are always a mess from peeps hitting them with weed whackers and such,
@tonywestvirginia yes, but not part of the insulation job, mr home owner only had so much to spend on fixing the heating issues on a thirty year old trailer floor. Most older mobile homes look this way underneath.
@pluma1620 yes sir, thanx, Mr home owner was pleased , and reported much better economy of his heating oil, with the extra R value insulation i installed for him I think an upgraded, insulated skirt for his trailer would be the next project, as you must know how bad these get , around most mobile homes.
@mnc51 yeah, but it has nothing to do with insulating the floor of this mobile home trailer, but now the home owner is much warmer with lower heating bills because we fixed the insulation under the belly of the trailer with a better r-value insulation, plus the water pipes in the floor wont freeze up as this is cold weather country. The best insulation possible is required. thnx 4 stopping in
@onlywhenprovoked tight is right bud, was actually cooler under the trailer floor, thankfully. I wore long sleeves and a mask to keep from breathing the insulation. it was the dirts in my cracks from all the belly crawling that sucked. Mr. home owner was happy, and when i was done, the floor had higher R-value, plus i fixed all the duke factory heating ductwork, he was pleased.
@TheMRBIL thnk you bud, hope it works for you, complements, and good ratings are hard to come by here, I appreciate your writings, thnx again, any questions ,, i;ll be glad to help
hi, most MOBILE HOME FLOOR INSULATION of this vintage was called an insulation blanket, layed down during construction, and was NOT at all protection from animals, you need to keep those out from under with a good trailer skirt. There is a diagram i made during the how to, i did it video of FIXing MOBILE HOME FLOOR INSULATION. This i realy just how to insulate a mobile home, other issue must be delt with accordingly. )
While I do appreciate highly trained professionals demonstrating the "correct way" under optimum conditions, this is what I come to youtube for, cost-effective creativity like this! Making an insulative blanket by gluing batts to a tarp, so simple, whish I'd thought of it!
@sok8888 ps, the area under the floor is heated, not a cold condensation space, should happen on the outside of the moisture barrier, thats why the original insulation was backed, as was mine, have a nice day
I came across your video when i wrote "how to close off insulation under a trailer" in the search bar lol. I'm not disappointed ! How did they get a fire under there btw ? (if you don't mind me asking). I'm a first time home owner and bought a double wide trailer, so when you mentioned they had a fire, it set off alarms in my head lol. Especially because i have some electricity running under there to hear up the water pipes.
Harry, I believe the home owner had done his work at some point. The water heater had been leaking and had comprimised the floor and the wireing. I was hire to do the grunt work under the trailer, as you can see. Thanks for watching
I have a double wide trailer needs insulation on bottom. had somebody that was supposed to come out to do it and never showed up. so I'm going to have to do it myself if I want it done.
Nice work Sir. How long do you think it would take to Insulate the hole bottom of a 16x72 mh? and doing the house wrap to protect the insulation? Just wondering how long it will take me to do this job on my mh. Thank you and stay safe.
hi hun its been a while since you uploaded this but i was wondering what the cost of a job like this would run me if u had my entire under part done on mine any ideas?
Hey man use what you have to work with. Not bad Jimmy riggin. I think I'm going to have to crawl under my trailer soon too because I'm losing way too much heat. It's like insane how cold it is in here and we have the heater on all day.
@ROCKNTV1 I have a pretty large hole in a trailer from a busted water pipe and shoddy repair job where insulation was never replaced; I now have a persistent mold problem. House is an 1986 Conner doublewide with 16" on center floor joists. Could I j use regular home insulatiin with 16" wire hangers to secure, then go back with either tyvek or 6ml poly stapled to floor joists?. Thanks for the vid, I sub'd
This is brutal. I had a job doing something like this in a mobile home, where a water heater line busted. Man it was like being back in Vietnam as a tunnel rat again. You also never know what you'll find down there, I've come across snakes and a family of Opossums.
what park of the country are you in? we sre missing half the insulation on our 20yr old double wide we just purchased last year. is there any way we coukd contact you?
@sok8888 i replaced what the factory installed thirty years ago, only better INSULATION, and, i did it on location, with a old tarp, worked great, with out lifting the MOBILE HOME FLOOR 10 feet from the ground ;) plenty of breathing room
Well, my question of 4 years ago was never answered, so I guess can't expect any difference this time. However, isn't floor insulation necessary only in cold country? I live in San ?Diego, and I don't think it's necessary or useful here.
I've done a few of these in the center. It sucks. Especially on newer ones. The belly wrap hangs way low to clear heat duct and such, don't want it tight against it, youll lose R value. So my solution was to take some 2"x2"-8' long, wrap tarp around 2"x2" and screw to joist parallel to main beam. Lay in insulation, wrap 2"x2" on other side parallel to main beam and screw into joists. Wahlah, brand new belly wrap droopy in the middle. Have to leave center hang always. Its the only way to get heat circulated through out floor during winter.
Trying to find the way to fix the underbelly of mobile home were it bad but the video doesn't really show how to get the job done .the walls that holds it up what you need to do it with
Newly Re Edit with better diagram here th-cam.com/video/gLuFJcp6GBA/w-d-xo.html
thanks for watching
For those consider doing a "belly wrap" install, here is a tip for working on the inside of the I-beams. If you have a wide enough piece of poly wrap, simply roll up the edges on a 1x2 firing strip and nail the firing strip to the floor joists right up against the I-beams. Leave enough wrap to get the sag you need to clear any plumbing hanging down. If you ever get a leak, you can simply pry loose the firing strips on both sides and drop down your insulation, fix your leak, replace any insulation if needed, and renail the firing strips to hold up your insulation. This job is always easier with the help of a friend, but using this method really makes it easier for one person. The same can be done on the outsides of the I-beams, nailing strips to the rim plate and joists next to the I-beam.
A million thanks! Your video is great and has been of tremendous help to me. I had a broken drain pipe ruin a ton of insulation under my trailer. Of course the plastic sheeting had been ruined also. Repair estimates from the big local insulation company were astronomical. Three kids and my not working is making $ tight. Thanks to you, I'm doing the repair myself and the "insulation blanket" technique is genius.
One of the finest video's if seen on Mobile home repair. Keep up the great work.
I had to do my home that had the same problem and damage as the home worked on in this video.
I utilized your video as a starting point and refined it to a better way that was easier and more professional.
It also looks great and is structurally strong and will never fail by sagging or separating
The process is basically the same.
Step one: Remove all sagging insulation and existing debris from under home and working area
Step two: Measure the span between steel beams and cut 1" x 1" x (in my case 75") and span them
approx. 10" to 12" apart from each other inside the beam.
Step three: Secure wood supports to steel beam so they do not move or shift during the installation of
the insulation. I first was going to silicone the wood to the steel beam but it proved to be a
mess and really was not secure. It proved easier and stronger to put wood support in place
and drill a 1/8" - 5/32" hole through steel under it. Then shoot a wood drive screw through the
steel hole you drilled into the wood support and snug it up firmly.
Step four: Cut insulation outside of the crawl space to size and drag under house and push it into
area above wood supports you just installed to the steel beams. Remember to install your
insulation with the paper back facing the ground. Simply push and pull insulation into area
above wood slats until area is filled or covered and no air or gas can be seen. That's it..your done!
You can install a final protection barrier of 6 mm tarp to stop any possible insects or critters by stapling the
tarp directly to the wood supports you already installed to support the insulation.
Without seeing your video I was going to do a patch job. It was so easy to do it as I mentioned I simply
removed all insulation good or bad and completely did the process every where.
I decided against strapping due to all the low hanging plumbing and such. Plus the home owner had no money, I did this job nearly for free ;-)
I know this is an old post, but man what a great solution to a tough job. good job man!
glad to help, thanks for watching
Anchors in joist....Why didn't I think of that? Making a blanket a tarp and spray adhesive...........Why didn't I think of that? I don't know but you just solved one of my repairs and wanted to say thanks.
thanks for watching, is youtube borking the comments?
@handsupbud thank you for watching, comments like yours make it worth doing these videos, this job was for an older person who bought this mobile home second hand, the floor was rotted out in several places from leaky plumbing and the heating duct work was in serious disrepair, replacing the insulation in the floor this way worked out well and he was very happy as I am for your comment, thnx again
Welcome to my world for 10 months removing rats and new HVAC air flow map, TH-cam videos have been great help
work? isnt it?
that's genius ! i have been under many of these, and it is ALWAYS a nightmare
i see people fretting moisture (and yes, they have a point) - but - i would be willing to bet the typical 30 yr old mobile home walls, windows, doors, and roof will allow enough unintended venting to wick off moisture
well done sir
"i would be willing to bet the typical 30 yr old mobile home walls, windows, doors, and roof will allow enough unintended venting to wick off moisture" YOU GOT THAT RIGHT
great idea ya have there, nice work all around, cleaning it out etc. very nice.
you did a very nice job!
Good work, just bought a trailer this will be helpful !!! Good job !
Glad it was helpful!
@ROCKNTV1 That sounds good...I don't want to deal with the roof because it is a trailer and very close to a flat roof. thanks for your help!
Oh my gosh, so helpful. I have a man giving me an estimate to replace the insulation that the "critters" tore out. I will use this video to help me understand what the heck he is talking about! Great video, even I could understand it.
thanks for watching, is youtube borking the comments?
Good idea making the blanket using a tarp. I'd like to see the stitching you were talking about.
Noted!
a simple shoe lace patteren
Wow, I realize the repair was to resolve a problem and with 15 inches of space to work in there is only so much you can do. However with these homes costing 50 to 150 thousand dollars it just sucks that they have no better method of insulation. I guess that's why there are so many that can't sell and others that get sold cheap. I wouldn't offer much for one after seeing this situation. Buyer be ware!
I think this situation would be greatly improved if these were parked over a concrete slab.
Thanks very much for this video/info. I'm looking to do the same very soon.
WELCOME, thanks for watching, is you tube borking the comments?
very dangerous blocking to hold up the trailer(mobile home).. cement blocks have no strength when placed with the holes on their sides, all their strength in when they are place with the holes verticle
that was the first thing I noticed as well... frightening
I DID NOT BUILD THE FREAKIN THING, HAS BEEN THERE SINCE 1973
Lol. These things have usually been in the same spot for 40 years..
Obv. The cinderblocks are doing just fine..
Just like all the toys r us trusses and studs.
Been holding up to storms and snow loads no problem for the same amount of time just fine..
Buy a new house this day and age
And in 5 years its sinking. Foundation leaks.. Mold issues. Drywalls cracking.. Etc etc.
These old "flimsey" .."unsafe" shoe boxes arent build as bad as people think
That is a good idea. I am going to try it on my mobile home. Keep up the good work. Your kind of work is such a blessing
Genius idea!
Thanks for this. I really needed it!
welcome
@ROCKNTV1, Along the metal beams, how did you seal that up? Your method is great, but I cannot figure that last part out. (this being to keep out the critters and such.)
Thank you Thank you Thank you!
Great idea. All the condensation comments I think are negated by the fact that no matter how hard you try you just can't get an airtight seal with all the pipes, joists, and other crap in the way. Might give this a try
and only 2' from a dirt floor.
Some hardware stores sell a woven housewrap that can be used as an alternative to the factory belly wrap. It will serve the same purpose, except it will not repel rodents like the factory belly wrap which is coated so rodents will not want to chew through it. Of course some rodents chew through it anyway and this can be avoided simply by having solid skirting.
rodent chew through full gas cans, good luck with the repelent, try poison, or a cat, thanks for watching, is youtube borking the comments?
Bought a doubble wide got to replumb it and fix some insulation good video man I'll have to try it thankfully I got a bigger crawlspace than that tho lol
welcome .. thanks for watchingm thumbs up appreciated
Thanks for posting! Any thoughts on properly installing bellypan insulation for the sake of moisture control? I could get the batts/plastic up there, but I'm worried about moisture buildup inside the insulation. I also feel like my place is so poorly insulated anything I invest in insulation I'd be getting a better payback for increasing my heat production instead, especially since I can't insulate the ceiling (the most important high-R value area).
It is always nice to get negative “feedback” from from a mental midget or armchair quarterback who never even set a foot on the field. If even a lower IQ individual listened to anything the man said, one could come to the conclusion that he has an older homeowner on a very limited income who he is just trying to help him out, most likely at a very discounted labor rate. With no limits on time, money, materials and all other resources, any repair or product can be made better. He did a great job(like he has stated, just like the factory built it), in a very tough work environment, met the homeowners budget, the repair was effective and hopefully made enough to cover his cost of helping somebody a little less fortunate out. This is tough work in a tough environment. I also think the video is fine and appropriate as it gives the viewer a sense of how hard the job is. He ain’t splitting an atom, just working hard in a tough spot. Some people would bitch about being hung with a dirty rope. Excellent video, I appreciate your insight, experience and craftsmanship. Best of luck always and may your nails always drive straight and your saw cuts be right the first time. Hope you came through the hurricane intact and good fortune comes your way as you help those who got hit hard.
thanks for the kind words , green lights and blue skys to you sir.
very good idea thanks, I was just trying to figure out how to fix the insulation under my mom's double wide, about the same height and looks indenticle, thanks for the tip
Sounds like my mobile home. I had to replace the water heater and then another pipe decided to develop a pin hole lead right between the floor. Thanks for the video. I am trying to come up with some idea's.
welcome
I see why nobody wants to help me fix my subfloor problem lol. Great video.
I have a 74 trailor with the same problem but mine was from a tub pipe leak. Trying to fix it from the inside but a lot needs to be replaced.
Mind need wogrk to
ah yes sir
My old trailer has a belly tarp (torn, tattered and water logged.) I had to rip it out after my toilet sewer line froze off and the um......fluid backed up into the belly lining. It was a hard sub zero job that took me a week so I can completely relate to your predicament. Including the spiders-not mentioned but obvious.
thanks for watching, is you tube borking the comments?
i did not build the trailer, nor was a contracted to fix anything but the floor insulation, and water damage, but the trailer has been on these mounting points for 30 years, mr home owner neither warranted replacement or afford to do so. i did the floor insulation as requested. thnx
@london1817 You probably get some sort of through the wall ventilation fan if you did not want to deal with a through the roof style vent, but it should be close to the ceiling.
@MissMousy60 hello, the ductwork was very loosely connected at all its joints, at the registers in the floor, and at the plenum connections from the furnace. Over time, these have separated, allowing the the heat to escape into the area under the trailer floor, i fixed these. I used regular insulation of R-19 value, and installed it in the manor shown in the video. there is a diagram at the end of the video, hope that helps.
@s65maniac the area "above" the insulation i installed under the floor is heated. The moisture problem the home owner had was from leaky plumbing in the floor, not condensation. The area "under" a mobile home is cold and protected from the weather by a skirt and un insulated to prevent this.
God bless you for being able to work in cramped, creepy places like that! I wonder if technology has caught up yet to include lifts like the ones car mechanics use to make working on mobile homes much easier! Also, would putting a cement scratch coat underneath be too much to ask? Keep it cleaner and then you could also lay and wheel around on a dolly. Much easier!
yes I think a crete slab would make a world of diff.
I really like the idea, I have to patch a 6x 6 hole, and I'll do it this way
thanks for watching
My double wide has an issue, the walls sweat on the back walls (where the sun don't hit) and the humidity is 85% when the temp is 65 inside...its humid all the time...the insulation under nieth is good with the heavy black fabric/ tarp that it came with....I have no moisture barrior on ground....think I need that done?....Please help!....thanks...Rick.
THANK YOU!
your welcome
I'm doing this process right now , but , a different approach . I've opted to remove all the stock insulation , and fill the 2x8 joists . 2 Choices , R28 or 31 is 8.5" thick .
Except the bathroom area , I am keeping all the heavy black material . Cut one long slice down the middle , about 48-64" long for easy workability . Remove all existing blanket insulation . Install new batts in joists , pull black paper over and staple to joists . It's so much neater . For the plumbing and heating areas , I cut 2x8 plywood , and slid it in the cross frames , and insulated it with fiberglass R20 .
I'm about 1/2 way so far . It was down to 14F last night . The finished area is so much warmer . No more cold spots in the bdrm , hallway or bathroom . Very impressed so far . Replacing that blanket is really just an easy out , total replacement rocks !
I also have R20 skirting now vs R5 , as I'm going towards the front . All panel board and original insulation in the walls has been replaced , vapor barriered . Roof is original still .
To date , it is about $1000 for the floor in insulation(With addition) , about the same or less to redo the walls . Not cheap , and it's a major PITA to do , but in the end , comfort is king :) . My new furnace gets installed in 2 days . Bring on winter , I will be warm this year unlike the past 4 .
I may attempt a video . Nothing on youtube like I'm doing
Man your work is good
You good.
thanks for watching, is you tube borking the comments?
Great job.
thanks for watching, is youtube borking the comments?
YOUNG MAN U ARE DOING GOOD JOB , U I USE ( INSULATION RIGIL BOARD )
BOARD COME IN DIFFERENT SIZE 1/2 " OR 3/4 " OR 1 " X 4 ' X 8 ' BE JUST LIKE A SHEET OF PLYWOOD / BETTER TO WORK WITH !
FOR MOBLIE HOME
THANK U
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2016
welome thnks for watching
Thanks for posting what we've been avoiding too long. Time to do it before Michigan winter. Possums and cats coming in through hole, after your tarp and insulation lacing then we may have to add chicken wire. I wondered if foam tube pipe insulation cut to size on pipes before we do batting is just overkill .or ok we can be minus 15- 20 degrees in January
thanks for watching
so McGyver. Thankyou!
thanks for watch n , hope the info helps
@itscool1968 the trailer skirt was damaged at the entrance i was working from, directly below the hot water heater which leaked and ruined the flooring. The home owner had some one install a heat tape on these pipes to keep them from freezing, and used a cheap extension cord to power it. It had melted and caught fire. I fixed the floor repaired the leaky plumbing, insulated all with higher R Value insulation and repaired the skirting.
glad to help
@ROCKNTV1 I don't have any fans in the bathrooms its a 1992 modular. do they make ones that can mount on walls?
lol, everything about the crawl space under a mobile home or trailer says work, Never have i been under one of these floor repair projects, especially an insulation job and had so much fun ;P I swear they all look the same once you get past the skirt ing.
Nooo..I don't wanna go to work..Lmao...Nice Video Sir :D
The plastic backing on the insulation will cause condensation at different times of year. Here's why: During the summer the crawl space will be cold. The mobile home will be warm. The plastic makes a semi-permiable membrane between... just like the glass on a cold glass of water. The water will condense on the warm side - like the glass... but that side has no ventilation and will make a great home for mold.
I get WHY it will do this, most people can likely figure out why. Why not provide the proper way to do it so that people viewing the video/comment can see that? Otherwise it just seems like a criticism without any constructive element.
I just reproduced the factory install
@london1817 that weird bud, you should defiantly have a ventilation fan in your bathrooms we call them "stink fans". As far as your crawl space,, in the north east , you can NOT leave these open, as the plumbing would freeze quick. We use what is called skirting, this can be purchased or homemade but the plastic ones are always a mess from peeps hitting them with weed whackers and such,
that was awesome thanks for sharing
welcome
I love this idea
thanks for watch n
@tonywestvirginia yes, but not part of the insulation job, mr home owner only had so much to spend on fixing the heating issues on a thirty year old trailer floor. Most older mobile homes look this way underneath.
you could try crushed stone as a perimeter to deter them from digging under,maybe..
@pluma1620 yes sir, thanx, Mr home owner was pleased , and reported much better economy of his heating oil, with the extra R value insulation i installed for him I think an upgraded, insulated skirt for his trailer would be the next project, as you must know how bad these get , around most mobile homes.
@mnc51 yeah, but it has nothing to do with insulating the floor of this mobile home trailer, but now the home owner is much warmer with lower heating bills because we fixed the insulation under the belly of the trailer with a better r-value insulation, plus the water pipes in the floor wont freeze up as this is cold weather country. The best insulation possible is required.
thnx 4 stopping in
Great idea. I have been struggling with how I was going to replace mine. Except I know I have a huge possum to deal with once I get underneath. :p
thanks for watching
😛😝😁
@onlywhenprovoked tight is right bud, was actually cooler under the trailer floor, thankfully. I wore long sleeves and a mask to keep from breathing the insulation. it was the dirts in my cracks from all the belly crawling that sucked. Mr. home owner was happy, and when i was done, the floor had higher R-value, plus i fixed all the duke factory heating ductwork, he was pleased.
@TheMRBIL thnk you bud, hope it works for you, complements, and good ratings are hard to come by here, I appreciate your writings, thnx again, any questions ,, i;ll be glad to help
hi, most MOBILE HOME FLOOR INSULATION of this vintage was called an insulation blanket, layed down during construction, and was NOT at all protection from animals, you need to keep those out from under with a good trailer skirt. There is a diagram i made during the how to, i did it video of FIXing MOBILE HOME FLOOR INSULATION. This i realy just how to insulate a mobile home, other issue must be delt with accordingly. )
While I do appreciate highly trained professionals demonstrating the "correct way" under optimum conditions, this is what I come to youtube for, cost-effective creativity like this! Making an insulative blanket by gluing batts to a tarp, so simple, whish I'd thought of it!
Thanks for the comment, glad to help
@sok8888 ps, the area under the floor is heated, not a cold condensation space, should happen on the outside of the moisture barrier, thats why the original insulation was backed, as was mine, have a nice day
thank you its not as hard as it sounds 😃
FIX DIY
I came across your video when i wrote "how to close off insulation under a trailer" in the search bar lol. I'm not disappointed !
How did they get a fire under there btw ? (if you don't mind me asking).
I'm a first time home owner and bought a double wide trailer, so when you mentioned they had a fire, it set off alarms in my head lol. Especially because i have some electricity running under there to hear up the water pipes.
Harry, I believe the home owner had done his work at some point. The water heater had been leaking and had comprimised the floor and the wireing. I was hire to do the grunt work under the trailer, as you can see. Thanks for watching
I have a double wide trailer needs insulation on bottom. had somebody that was supposed to come out to do it and never showed up. so I'm going to have to do it myself if I want it done.
DIY
@highcountrytimber not good,,,are you going to insulate the floor ?
@tonywestvirginia thnx ;)
Nice video first off. i have a 22 by 60 that I'm gonna try to do the whole thing like this. was there ever any issues?
not that i ever heard
Yeah I know what you mean..I used to do House Leveling ;/ But I would prefer working under a mobile home any day than a pier and beam home.
Liked your way. But if you check that the paper side of the insulation it's go up to the floor.
not the way the factory did it, dosent take the glue to well either
I need to have that same thing done now. Around how much did this cost the home owner? I haven't had anyone out yet so just curious.
Time + materials
Wow!
you liky??
Thanks
welcome
Nice work Sir. How long do you think it would take to Insulate the hole bottom of a 16x72 mh? and doing the house wrap to protect the insulation? Just wondering how long it will take me to do this job on my mh. Thank you and stay safe.
likly several days if you are working alone, thanks for watching
@ROCKNTV1 I live in N.C. in the foothills.
hi hun its been a while since you uploaded this but i was wondering what the cost of a job like this would run me if u had my entire under part done on mine any ideas?
time + materials
Hey man use what you have to work with. Not bad Jimmy riggin. I think I'm going to have to crawl under my trailer soon too because I'm losing way too much heat. It's like insane how cold it is in here and we have the heater on all day.
doing this and repairing the skirting will certainly help. thanks for watching.
@ROCKNTV1 I have a pretty large hole in a trailer from a busted water pipe and shoddy repair job where insulation was never replaced; I now have a persistent mold problem. House is an 1986 Conner doublewide with 16" on center floor joists. Could I j use regular home insulatiin with 16" wire hangers to secure, then go back with either tyvek or 6ml poly stapled to floor joists?. Thanks for the vid, I sub'd
probaly, I just reproduced what the factory had done.
This is brutal. I had a job doing something like this in a mobile home, where a water heater line busted. Man it was like being back in Vietnam as a tunnel rat again. You also never know what you'll find down there, I've come across snakes and a family of Opossums.
yep, breath slow and getR done
@london1817 hello, what area of the country are you in .Rick.
@rov1530 i meant to say ,, buy the best materials you can afford to install, save your receipts.
I love the "lacing" technique! A critter is living under my mobile home in NJ .Any ideas on keeping the skirting opossum proof?
Use a pest bomb or a few
Pre-Making that blanket probably saved you a lot of grief, and a lot of "in and out" work in that tiny space. I wonder how it's holding up today?
12 years has past,,,, dunno ;-)
i bet you're glad this job didn't come up in the middle of summer. lol
tight space, nice work.
what park of the country are you in? we sre missing half the insulation on our 20yr old double wide we just purchased last year. is there any way we coukd contact you?
sorry no
@sok8888 i replaced what the factory installed thirty years ago, only better INSULATION, and, i did it on location, with a old tarp, worked great, with out lifting the MOBILE HOME FLOOR 10 feet from the ground ;) plenty of breathing room
good
mr home owner was happy, thanks for watching
Well, my question of 4 years ago was never answered, so I guess can't expect any difference this time. However, isn't floor insulation necessary only in cold country? I live in San ?Diego, and I don't think it's necessary or useful here.
I do know i wont live in kali with insulation or not
How do you fix floors from creaking? Who do I call or ask information to see if packrats haven’t destroyed the bottom of the manufacture home?
usualy propper fastening technique, and quality construction adheasive.
LOL there is a ton of room. My buddy's trailer is only 10" at the most,gophers have back filled the crawl space ,now I get to tunnel under there.
great job!! I need to do that asap.... How much is a job like this cost... A quote...
time + materials
i would like to hire you
@rov1530 your welcome, dont forget the tax breaks you may get for installing insulation upgrades in your mobile home this year ;)
I've done a few of these in the center. It sucks. Especially on newer ones. The belly wrap hangs way low to clear heat duct and such, don't want it tight against it, youll lose R value. So my solution was to take some 2"x2"-8' long, wrap tarp around 2"x2" and screw to joist parallel to main beam. Lay in insulation, wrap 2"x2" on other side parallel to main beam and screw into joists. Wahlah, brand new belly wrap droopy in the middle. Have to leave center hang always. Its the only way to get heat circulated through out floor during winter.
As shown i used wire to LACE the insukation blanket to the floor joisters.
Trying to find the way to fix the underbelly of mobile home were it bad but the video doesn't really show how to get the job done .the walls that holds it up what you need to do it with
drawing at end of video watch again
Once you get that matting up in there would putting aluminum foil bubble wrap right up against it and taping it in there help
added protection?
Do trailers in warm climes need insulation?
magine