Thanks for your tests! Seems like a reasonable LC meter. I wasn't sure about buying one of these but after watching this video I'll buy it, especially for measuring inductors.
It has been really useful. Recently I made a coil based on a calculator, then I tested the real thing and it had 1/3rd of the inductance! Turns out the PVC pipe I used had some filler that reacted with the electromagnetic field. That saved me long hours of trying to trouble shoot a "broken" crystal radio.
I bought one of these a few years ago, and I could not have been happier with it. I still don't have a "proper" LCR meter, but I have a Uni-T brand DMM with a capacitance feature on it, but I still prefer this. Even if the USB plug's a bit dated heh.
Good Point but it's not difficult to find and test a quality fixed inductor and then apply whatever difference there may be to future results. At least that's my plan for my upcoming Tune Input build where I will copy the Pride Input circuit for a 4cx250b
Thank you so much for making this video, I actually have that tool but was using it for testing RC lipo batteries but I never knew it can do capacitors, which I need right now to test Air conditioner capacitors... Thanks.. I almost just posted it for sale.. Thanks!
I have LC100A from Ali. I have made an inductor for HF, 200uH according to technical specifications. When I measure it with greater accuracy I get 147uH otherwise wiyh less accuracy I get spot on 0.200 mH according to design specifications. What is correct?
@@tsbrownie Yes I have actually zoro it out before the measurements so I'm quite confused by the results. I think I will need to pause my project and wait for a more reliable measurement.
I recently purchased one of these. When testing a coil the value displayed gradually drops towards zero. Pressing the red function button indicates the frequency climbing. Is that a fault in the device?
@@brewstud Some LC100 had a yellow toroid with 33 turns as the L1 inductor. The material the toroid is made of is intended for use as a suppression choke in power supplies and its inductance varies with higher frequencies. As it forms part of an oscillator circuit this accounts for the variation in frequency. Older versions use a moulded axial inductor (it looks like a resistor) for L1. I replaced the toroid in mine with a 47uH moulded inductor which made inductance measurements more stable.
After i watched your video bought one also, i have taken a few measurements and here are the results. I am not sure if the tolerance is between limits or not, i would like to know your opinion if not a problem. i measured those values and reset it after each measurement: first column has the given value, second column what i measured. 1000pf to get 760pf 4.7nf - 3.56 470pf - 353pf 0.022mf - 0.016mf 2.2nf - 1.51nf 56pf - 41pf 150pf - 115pf 220pf - 166pf 1mf - 20mf 10mf - 209mf 22mf - 500mf 1mf - 19.8mf
I am not sure if it is the meter or the devices. I've measured many caps and such and they are never dead on. There's a way to calibrate it, have you done that?
@@tsbrownie No i haven't calibrate it, don't know how. I have measure 2-3 different capacitors of the same value and the fault is the same for all of them.
@@tsbrownieThanks. I had already located the full manual and found the same. I want mine on battery power, so I'll have to measure the current on my own to determine what to use. I'm inclined to use two AAs with a boost converter. We'll see. I do wish the companies would supply typical current draw for these modules in general. Im working on a DSO138 scope, and will build the signal generator next among others. Each one will require knowing the current draw before packaging can be decided upon.
@@tsbrownie I used a Charge Doctor to measure the LC100 current draw. The resolution is only 10 ma and it read zero. According to what I see therefore it's drawing less than that. 9.9 ma would still show zero on that meter. I'll set up an analog meter when I get a chance, but for now I'm assuming fairly minuscule current. Plan A. 2 AA cells with cheap boost regulator. Plan B. 9 volt battery feeding a 7805 linear regulator. Plan C. Experimentally, 2 CR2032 lithium cells in series with one or two signal diodes, depending on how the IV curve knee works out at that level.
Thanks for your tests! Seems like a reasonable LC meter. I wasn't sure about buying one of these but after watching this video I'll buy it, especially for measuring inductors.
It has been really useful. Recently I made a coil based on a calculator, then I tested the real thing and it had 1/3rd of the inductance! Turns out the PVC pipe I used had some filler that reacted with the electromagnetic field. That saved me long hours of trying to trouble shoot a "broken" crystal radio.
I bought one of these a few years ago, and I could not have been happier with it. I still don't have a "proper" LCR meter, but I have a Uni-T brand DMM with a capacitance feature on it, but I still prefer this. Even if the USB plug's a bit dated heh.
Since there are no reference values, I'm tempted to think he means 'precision' when he says 'accuracy'.
Good Point but it's not difficult to find and test a quality fixed inductor and then apply whatever difference there may be to future results. At least that's my plan for my upcoming Tune Input build where I will copy the Pride Input circuit for a 4cx250b
Thank you so much for making this video, I actually have that tool but was using it for testing RC lipo batteries but I never knew it can do capacitors, which I need right now to test Air conditioner capacitors... Thanks.. I almost just posted it for sale.. Thanks!
With the 5 volt LC meter you must first calibrate by short-circuiting the 2 measuring leads and then pressing the zero button.
I usually do, but not every time. If you don't power it off, it is within a few percent.
does anyone have the LC meter LC100A firmware?
because of the overvoltage usb adapter, the STM ic finally burned
Awesome 😎
I have LC100A from Ali. I have made an inductor for HF, 200uH according to technical specifications. When I measure it with greater accuracy I get 147uH otherwise wiyh less accuracy I get spot on 0.200 mH according to design specifications. What is correct?
Did you zero it out? I have to zero mine every time I turn it on. Also, I've killed 2 by not discharging caps COMPLETELY before connecting them.
@@tsbrownie Yes I have actually zoro it out before the measurements so I'm quite confused by the results. I think I will need to pause my project and wait for a more reliable measurement.
I've found that the readings for physically large inductors for a tank circuit, can be hit and miss. I think the meter is rather flaky.
I could deduce you know the inductors reference values, but it would be a better experience if you told us. Thanks for sharing
Noted, thanks.
I recently purchased one of these. When testing a coil the value displayed gradually drops towards zero.
Pressing the red function button indicates the frequency climbing. Is that a fault in the device?
I can not be sure, but that does not sound right. The values should stay pretty steady around the actual value.
@@tsbrownie Thanks for the response. Didn't seem right to me. Makes the testing sort of useless. I will return it for a replacement.
@@brewstud Some LC100 had a yellow toroid with 33 turns as the L1 inductor. The material the toroid is made of is intended for use as a suppression choke in power supplies and its inductance varies with higher frequencies. As it forms part of an oscillator circuit this accounts for the variation in frequency. Older versions use a moulded axial inductor (it looks like a resistor) for L1. I replaced the toroid in mine with a 47uH moulded inductor which made inductance measurements more stable.
Hi, i'm looking into buying an inductance meter to determine the dwell time on automotive coils (for the spark plugs). Would this device do the job ?
I don't know enough about new cars to answer. If we are talking about old cars with points and condensers, then I could venture a guess.
lol
Thanks for the tip.😁
You bet!
Good info... Thx
After i watched your video bought one also, i have taken a few measurements and here are the results. I am not sure if the tolerance is between limits or not, i would like to know your opinion if not a problem. i measured those values and reset it after each measurement: first column has the given value, second column what i measured.
1000pf to get 760pf
4.7nf - 3.56
470pf - 353pf
0.022mf - 0.016mf
2.2nf - 1.51nf
56pf - 41pf
150pf - 115pf
220pf - 166pf
1mf - 20mf
10mf - 209mf
22mf - 500mf
1mf - 19.8mf
I am not sure if it is the meter or the devices. I've measured many caps and such and they are never dead on. There's a way to calibrate it, have you done that?
@@tsbrownie No i haven't calibrate it, don't know how. I have measure 2-3 different capacitors of the same value and the fault is the same for all of them.
@@gordinir7 Sounds like calibration.
My one is so bad with accuracy. I'm going to have to try some mods.
Is there ESR reading on LC100A?
Not that I know of. The instructions are rather thin.
where do you get it
Ordered online.
i need a tester fer big caps
What about the price in $ please .
Thanks.
I paid about $10 USD with shipping.
@@tsbrownie
Thanks .
How much current does it draw?
If you google "LC100-A" you can find the user manual, but it only lists a 5V power requirement. Does not tell the total power required.
@@tsbrownieThanks. I had already located the full manual and found the same. I want mine on battery power, so I'll have to measure the current on my own to determine what to use. I'm inclined to use two AAs with a boost converter. We'll see.
I do wish the companies would supply typical current draw for these modules in general. Im working on a DSO138 scope, and will build the signal generator next among others. Each one will require knowing the current draw before packaging can be decided upon.
@@joewoodchuck3824 let us know what you find.
That was my plan as well. Plan B is a 9v battery and a 7805 linear regulator
@@tsbrownie I used a Charge Doctor to measure the LC100 current draw. The resolution is only 10 ma and it read zero. According to what I see therefore it's drawing less than that. 9.9 ma would still show zero on that meter. I'll set up an analog meter when I get a chance, but for now I'm assuming fairly minuscule current.
Plan A. 2 AA cells with cheap boost regulator.
Plan B. 9 volt battery feeding a 7805 linear regulator.
Plan C. Experimentally, 2 CR2032 lithium cells in series with one or two signal diodes, depending on how the IV curve knee works out at that level.
LC100A works great but mine died after about year. but for price ....
Me too. I bought the replacement chips and need to get around to fixing it.