transit mk7 2007 step replacement nearside passenger (UK)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I had some rust in my Ford Transit LX mk7 2007 MWB H2 L2.
So I cut it out and repaired it.
lucky I had a van left at the end of it.
Here is a video of what I did.
Good luck take care be safe and have fun.
Remember you undertake all work at your own risk.
If in doubt get professional help
![Ford Transit Van Rust Holes [MOT FAIL!] Welding Repair Guide For UK 2.2 FWD Van | 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XV0XitYZ_EQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Ford Transit Van Rust Holes [MOT FAIL!] Welding Repair Guide For UK 2.2 FWD Van | 14](/img/tr.png)
Too much bla bla
Just done my transit steps, both sides & a lot of patching as well they're a beast for sure💚🇬🇧🌱
Tidy job young man. I have a few tips if folk are interested? My tips a based upon experience and not opinion.
1. Use 0.6mm mig wire because it doesn't create as much heat in the weld when welding very thin gauge steel.
2. Buy a 2meter long mig torch because it stops 0.6mm wire birds nesting up. Because it is a short torch the wire has less resistance when going through the torch lead. You could also put in a teflon liner to be even more slick.
3. If you don't have an air compressor, go buy one because you can use it for many jobs. My next points below covers an important one.
4. Get a blow gun on a compressed airline and use it to blow out seam sealer/underseal/sound deadening fires. It works a treat.
5. Use your blow gun as a means to cool welds near vulnerable plastic, brake lines and fuel lines.
6. When welding vehicles, an MOT test requires weld repairs to have continuous weld beads. Usually on thin stuff, the heat builds up and a big hole will appear.
7. To avoid too much heat build up andthen burning holes through your repair, use what I call the overlap tack style. Once the repair section is tacked in, put several more tacks around the plate. Then, go back to each tack in a random and opposing order and overlay another tack onto the previous one. Keep doing this until the plate is fully overlap tacked. When tidied off with a grinder, the perimeter of your repair should have a continuos weld bead all the way around it with NO gaps. Heat distortion will be minimal if any.
8. Then, when ready to seam seal, I use LeadMate a product by Ever Build. It comes in a tube similar like silicone. Apply ot using a finger directly over the weld. It is a rubberised type of product that doesn't go hard but can be painted over. Just apply a skim over the weld.
9. If doing a restoration type repair, use all the above except Lead Mate. You need the repair flush so a small gap is required to be filled by weld and then ground and sanded back to get the factory finish.
Fantastic advice my friend! Really appreciate the advice 👍🏻
totally agree thats super helpful and I really appreciate the time you took to add such an informative and supportive comment cheers every day is a school day and good advice is always welcome
Dropping gems to us hopeful dads is what keeps the world turning! Nice one man
Those tacks holding the outer sill on won’t pass the test, needs to be continuously seam welded apart from as on the step where it was originally spot welded.
Spot welding in a factory location is acceptable to most MOT testers (obviously any butt joins must be fully seamed) Top tip here is to leave your welds slightly proud and cover with a cheap paint until you've passed the MOT test.
I wouldn’t be to sure the water was coming through that hole in the floor - I’d say that’s a result of water pooling there / I’d look above the arch on left where cables pass through or check in engine bay under the scuttle they rot under there and hole
The firewall
thanks for the great tips they help everyone cheers
Also the trim either side of the windscreen that let's water in if there is mud etc got under the plastic step it blocks the drainage holes then the step rots out
@fishfinder9364 - didn't know that !!👍
Shatterhand
He says there's lots of filler he should use it on his mouth
John McGhee@johnmcghee52814 subscribers No videos.
I just use flat sheet to rebuild this area. It's not visible, you just need it to be solid metal. I do loads - every one is a total pita. I also ignore all and every idea Ford had for what shape things ought be. I have 2 criteria - does the door shut nicely & does the plastic liner fit? If it do & it does, jobs oxo. Fords version was crap anyway. How crapper could your version be? Not very, usually.
I have done my tranait. Absolut newbie. I've never welded in my life. Took me 4,5 weeks to complete. Every dayon it...7h/day. Inner and outer sills, steps front outer arches etc. It saved me money. Despite I had to buy all the tools and co2 welder. Tough job, lots of cutting and prep. I had to patch lots of things. One of the professional told me it's nicely welded and done. I'm happy but never again :)
There's gonna be no van left the Time he shuts up
Better to mount your camera on a tripod keeps wobble to a minimum 😉
Should have taken the complete step out and the outer door step sill needs to be fully welded
Bet you’re fun to be around 😂
Nice vid. I'm a bit scared now because I'll be doing the exact same thing in the next week or so (2006 mk5). How did you remove the plastic panels covering the steps? I removed the plastic pins but there must be somethimg else that keeps them in place. Don't want to break anything. Thanks!
go for it. i unbolted the end of the seat its a torx bit and they are loooong bolts that allowed me to lever it up and remove the plastic bits there are a few of those plastic rivets make sure you sealant available when rebuilding measure and try fit several times before you weld in and its all good and watch out for fire. at least the welding keeps you warm
@@iainsuggett7673 thx, will try to follow your instructions
Welding is poor. Good try though.
I remember way back when I had a mk5 smiley needing a little welding and my mate bought a mk6 proudly proclaiming how the don't rust like the older models.
I was sure then that time was the only thing keeping that statement temporarily true.
I have a transit with tin worm along both sides and across the back . I'm wondering where did you get the replacement panels from ? I've tried here and the only place I can get them is the main dealer at a outrageous price ! So any help welcomed. Thanks
ebay After I got them after a bit of a search they work fine
the other bits I had to cut and make from sheet steel
Way to go Bro'. Didn't see any blue lights, so well planned and executed.
Yeah thanks
Fitted one on my van on the exact same side!
Good video mate
Glad you enjoyed
Where did you get the replacement steps from?
did a search on ebay and worked out the best deal it was better value than my trade supply contacts and arrived quickly . it was a set including both steps for the driver an d passenger side bu I ensured i got galvanised . Always wear a good respirator when welding galv and make sure you grind it back to get clean metal to try and achieve the best weld you can. be brutal with teh van to chop back to good metal it reduces blown out welds. go for it.
@@iainsuggett7673 I did the same. Headed to ebay.. £150ish for the pair of steps plus both inner and outer seals... bargain. Thanks for giving us the push I needed to get mine sorted. 👊
We have all transit sills available at a great price
donde puedo conseguir las rotulas de suspensión del ford transit 89 ya que en costa rica no ay saludos
Hi do you do welding on other people vans?
Good workman like job solid and serviceable.
From the mk1 rust was always the issue
The welding is a mess...
Brings back memories
hello, great video could you tell me where is the outdoor temperature probe on the transit?thank you very much
Thanks very much
tbh I am not sure My guess is its likely to be in the front bumper or maybe with the rain sensor in the windscreen. I would have to google it to find out but hopefully another transit owner may have an answer fordtransit.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=134289
@@spannersnapper THANK YOU FOR YOUR REST I AM LOOKING FOR BUT I CAN'T FIND ANYTHING
@@sea33will41 www.vehiclehistory.com/questions/where-is-the-ford-transit-ambient-temperature-sensor-located-135926
Thanks you Merci de France 👍👏
Well done mate how long did it take start to finish bud if you don't mind me asking
Thanks the work was a full day 8 hrs with the underseal and top coats and clear coat the next day they require a commitment but I made sure i had most of the parts to hand before i started and planned the job so zinq coats could be drying whilst I was cutting and shaping for extra patches which "appeared" as I went along and chased the rot . 2yrs later its mint and now time to do the drivers side !
@@iainsuggett7673 thanks so much mate I'm on doing the mk6 with plenty of rot the chassis mint just the sills and steps lol or and rear arches cheers again mate excellent job
@@kyledale201 try and ensure that the patches fit really well before you weld with no gaps if possible it makes the welding easier overlapping metal is an invitation for rot take your time measure and cut and weld it right first time. (yes I am a crap welder but no one else stepped up and you learn nothing without practice and getting it wrong )
@@iainsuggett7673 no probs bud yea I've welded cars and vans before but never done what I'm having to do lol got myself a joggling tool with a hole punch on bud but sadly my vans had to be towed to my mates small holding with no electric as someone has reported me for having it outside my house with having no tax or Mot on it so I'm looking for a Genny to power my welder it's a good job I bought myself and nice little battery grinder lol thanks mate
@@kyledale201 got a pal in warwick selling a good genny if thats any good to you or close enough can see what price he wants for it