To clarify for everyone. I bought this lathe new from Wabeco and it came with a knurled bearing seat from factory. It's also not just my lathe I have seen another video where someone replaces their lathe spindle with a camlock version and I can see that spindle also had a knurled seat.
I can't believe it left the factory like that... these machines are actually well regarded but a knurled surface on a bearing seat??? I've actually just emailed them asking for some clarification... thanks for sharing regardless
Hello Projects Down Under. I haven't watched your other videos yet and the answer might be there, but could I ask, are you the original owner of this lathe? Can we be sure the knurling on the spindle was done at the factory and with the knowledge of Wabeco's management? I noted in one of your replies to a comment that you've seen this knurling on another Wabeco spindle, which is quite telling but still not conclusive. I'd really like to get to the bottom of this. @devinmoodley4061 wrote in a comment that he asked Wabeco for clarification on this. Was there an answer you can share Devin? Regards, Rick.
Mate, I think your solution was probably the most appropriate for this lathe. German ???? Hmmmm… perhaps the decals were made in Germany eh 🤣🤣 What was the inside of the head like? Any sand or Crudd in there? Anyhow…. great job, and thanks for putting the time in to video the work 👍 Regards Robert ( Sydney)
I was seriously considering buying one of these lathes but now I can’t help and question the build quality for such a major component. Knurling to “put on” a few thou? Would you say that the lathe performs well or should we be looking elsewhere?
www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1236t/ they are cheaper and much better. They are sold in many different countries under different names but all made in Taiwan. Power feeds on all axes, more rigid, more accurate etc.
i am thinking.. i would have used a thru the spindle bolt to seat the second bearing on the shaft instead of pulling it in with the retaining nut.. i also would have checked the break away preload with a spring and rope in a chuck key hole or a socket clamped in the chuck with an inch ounce dial type torque wrench to get 10 to 15 ounce inches of break away torque to know i have the preload set properly.. and i hate RED WHEEL Bearing grease.. but these are my personal opinions.
Hmm, I don't think there is any good reason to knurl a bearing fit diameter, if that was done in the factory by the original manufacturer then they have serious quality issues. Sorry, that's my opinion. Enjoyed your video though.
No there isn't but that's the way it came from the factory, which is quite disappointing for such an expensive lathe. The only reason I can think that they did that is they couldn't reliably hit the tolerance that they needed. The repair turned out good. By repeatedly pushing the knurling with the bump tool it work hardened and became quite stable. After a while more pressure didn't reduce the diameter any more and it came to the diameter I needed within a few micron.
@@ProjectsDownUnder Glad it worked out and you got the spindle running to spec. The bump tool was a great idea. Still amazed the factory would put the bearing on a knurled diameter.
That is a seriously poor design. Would it be possible to make a new spindle? Of course to do it properly you'd need to heat treat and grind it, but It can't be that hard to do a better job than the original. But your fix is much more realistic and probably just as good.
Making a good accurate spindle is hard and a lot of work especially boring out the center. If the spindle was cactus I would probably do it but in the case this fix will probably last the life of the lathe :)
To clarify for everyone. I bought this lathe new from Wabeco and it came with a knurled bearing seat from factory. It's also not just my lathe I have seen another video where someone replaces their lathe spindle with a camlock version and I can see that spindle also had a knurled seat.
Where can we find this video?
I like the way it works the bump tool.Good video.Thank you.
That’s so disappointing to realise that wabeco has just a good name without a reason. Good video!
Very good your information l like to know
dobra robota :)
Put your dial gauge in the top of the chuck and leaver under, apply pressure to see your bearing adjustment is correct.
Could you press the bearing race in using the tailstock ram ?
Seems a recent thing. My 40 y/o wabeco 2400 does not have this knurling
Put a dial gauge on top of the chuck and a lever under. apply force to check bearing adjustment.
Thanks for the tip.
How is the repair holding up? I would have been tempted to Lock-Tight the bearing in place but would make future servicing more difficult.
I can't believe it left the factory like that... these machines are actually well regarded but a knurled surface on a bearing seat??? I've actually just emailed them asking for some clarification... thanks for sharing regardless
did you ever get a response?
Hello Projects Down Under. I haven't watched your other videos yet and the answer might be there, but could I ask, are you the original owner of this lathe? Can we be sure the knurling on the spindle was done at the factory and with the knowledge of Wabeco's management? I noted in one of your replies to a comment that you've seen this knurling on another Wabeco spindle, which is quite telling but still not conclusive. I'd really like to get to the bottom of this. @devinmoodley4061 wrote in a comment that he asked Wabeco for clarification on this. Was there an answer you can share Devin? Regards, Rick.
Can you please do a shop tour and tell us how you came to metal working?
I'll do one some time in the future.
Mate,
I think your solution was probably the most appropriate for this lathe.
German ????
Hmmmm… perhaps the decals were made in Germany eh 🤣🤣
What was the inside of the head like? Any sand or Crudd in there?
Anyhow…. great job, and thanks for putting the time in to video the work 👍
Regards
Robert
( Sydney)
Priced like a German machine but build quality definitely not there.
Knurled?! Sounds like a factory bodge to recover an undersized spindle. Terrible!
I have seen one other wabeco spindle and it's the same!
Wow. I haven’t even seen this on a Chinese lathe.
I was seriously considering buying one of these lathes but now I can’t help and question the build quality for such a major component. Knurling to “put on” a few thou? Would you say that the lathe performs well or should we be looking elsewhere?
If I were to buy again I would buy something else. For the money there are much better machines out there for less.
@@ProjectsDownUnder wow, wabeco lathes are not cheap. I'd expect better quality for that much money.
@@ProjectsDownUnder I was considering this lathe, but no more. What do you recommend?
www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1236t/ they are cheaper and much better. They are sold in many different countries under different names but all made in Taiwan. Power feeds on all axes, more rigid, more accurate etc.
i considered buying this lathe - not any more - any suggestions on similar to purchase?Thanks
A Taiwanese lathe such as the PM-1340GT is far better and cheaper
i am thinking.. i would have used a thru the spindle bolt to seat the second bearing on the shaft instead of pulling it in with the retaining nut..
i also would have checked the break away preload with a spring and rope in a chuck key hole or a socket clamped in the chuck with an inch ounce dial type torque wrench to get 10 to 15 ounce inches of break away torque to know i have the preload set properly..
and i hate RED WHEEL Bearing grease.. but these are my personal opinions.
I did more adjustment to the bearing not shown in the video based on temperature and play etc.
Can you please give me the specification of the bearings? Thanks
32009X.P5
Hmm, I don't think there is any good reason to knurl a bearing fit diameter, if that was done in the factory by the original manufacturer then they have serious quality issues. Sorry, that's my opinion. Enjoyed your video though.
No there isn't but that's the way it came from the factory, which is quite disappointing for such an expensive lathe. The only reason I can think that they did that is they couldn't reliably hit the tolerance that they needed.
The repair turned out good. By repeatedly pushing the knurling with the bump tool it work hardened and became quite stable. After a while more pressure didn't reduce the diameter any more and it came to the diameter I needed within a few micron.
@@ProjectsDownUnder Glad it worked out and you got the spindle running to spec. The bump tool was a great idea. Still amazed the factory would put the bearing on a knurled diameter.
That is a seriously poor design. Would it be possible to make a new spindle? Of course to do it properly you'd need to heat treat and grind it, but It can't be that hard to do a better job than the original. But your fix is much more realistic and probably just as good.
Making a good accurate spindle is hard and a lot of work especially boring out the center. If the spindle was cactus I would probably do it but in the case this fix will probably last the life of the lathe :)
Waaaait... a KNURLED BEARING SEAT? Seriously??