I don't know anything about this industry and/or this Haas company but for sure they have embraced modern corporate communication and watching their videos is quite fascinating for anyone loving mechanical stuff. Well done Haas.
super useful, I wish I had this video when I learned. would have saved a LOT of time. corroded drawtubes are a major pain...must pay attention to the preventative maintenance!
What we have on our machines ( Tobacco Industry ) is a tap ( M16 ) on top of each heavy subassembly. We can screw in a tube or rod and a high matching eyebolt. Install that and than U can easyly unscrew the subassemly - chuck in this case - , slide it out of their mounting taps without worrying about the height or demaging. Also no need for this adjustable spanner to unscrew. After that , the subassembly can be lifted out of the machine by crane or if possible by hand. 100000 x easier...
If you have several of the same lathes with the same chuck is it advisable to have a spare chuck so that at 6 month intervals you can pull the current chuck, replace it with the spare, then work on the removed chuck? If so, what is the range of prices for a chuck?
I'm an instructor at a community college in the Precision Machining Technology program. I'd like to utilize this video as part of one of my classes. Is there a way to obtain a saveable copy so that I don't have to log onto TH-cam each time? If not, I can just record the name of the video and revisit TH-cam. Thanks!
This video was extremely useful when we installed our collet chuck. But we are having issues with accuracy when the bar feeder pushes. It's a dead length style collet. Any tips? Thanks
Hi Jeremy Pryor - Glad to hear the video was of use when you installed your collet chuck! In regards to the issue you mentioned, please email your direct email address and/or phone number to contact@HaasCNC.com, and reference your issue. Someone from our service team can contact you and assist you with this. Thanks Jeremy!
Hello and thank you for the question Laurence Babey. You are correct, the A2-5 spindle nose on the TL-1 is indeed tapered. There are manual chucks available that locate directly on the tapered spindle face. The chucks that we presently supply with these machines have an adapter plate which engages the taper, but the chuck body itself is bolted to the adapter plate and this allows a slight amount of adjustment between the two. This is the area we adjust in the video. Thanks again.
I have a 10 year old machine at work, st20 chuck has never been removed or maintained..should I even try? Previous people in power since removed, believed these machines were "self-maintaining."
who_picks_what_words_are? - The chuck drawtube nut may be rusted in place on the drawtube threads, in which case it will probably be very difficult to remove. But if you can get the chuck drawtube nut to rotate freely then it would be a great idea to pull the chuck off and clean and lubricate it thoroughly. We have a step-by-step chuck maintenance video if you choose to remove your chuck. Haas Automation
david Brown Our online DIY resource center would be a great place to start. If you're learning how to program, all of the tools linked here are very useful! Start here and check out the programming workbooks and the G- and M-code section: diy.haascnc.com/customer-service-center-categories/manuals-documentation/1176. Hope this helps David!
So useful. I've done this on my st-30 a few times now. But it's been a while. I have the same chuck as shown in this video 10". Can you help me on what torque specs the bolts for the chuck and adaptor plate should be at? I had them in some notes but can't find them thanks.
I’ve worked in 8 precision engineering companies and not one of them goes through all this fannying about. Wizz it off and give it a blast with the airline.....done!
That's the hard way of putting it on... Bolt the chuck on first. Make the draw bar is all the way back before bolting. Once bolted . Step on the foot pedal to have draw move forward. Once forward insert the chuck key and begin to thread it on... You will never have a problem,I guarantee it... Plus you'll never chew up the threads on the dram bar... Especially if you switch between a collet chuck and 3 jaw chuck as much as I do...
Hello yusuf kenan ersoy and thank you for the question. If the question is “How often should I service my chuck?” the answer is: Most of the chuck manufacturers recommend removing and servicing the chuck every 6 months. This interval will definitely help achieve the longest possible life of the chuck components. It’s also a good idea to remove the chip cover from the center bore regularly to check that you don’t have corrosion or excessive chip build up where the drawtube and draw nut connect. If the draw nut becomes rusted to the draw tube the two can become extremely difficult to separate. At the end of the video we see an example of what can happen when maintenance is neglected. With the chip cover off you can also see how well the master jaws and sliding wedge are lubricated. Don’t forget to re-install the chip cover.
So what do you do if... - No matter how much weight you take off the chuck with a hoist. - E stop the jaws half way between close/open. And the drawnut still cannot be removed, then what? Cause I didn't see no answer to that.
hosseinranjbar2810, At Haas we typically refer to this tool as a "Draw Nut Wrench" or "Hydraulic Chuck Assembly Handle". These come with the chucks on Haas lathes and also typically come along with hydraulic chucks purchased from any reputable vendor.
I want to remove vibrations created in my cnc due to large tool overhanging ( id boring dia 40mm tool overhanging 160mm normal local holder) please suggest any solutions to solve it
Hello and thank you for the question Chris Binkowski. In the video we say “... and check the face runout of the adapter plate. The run out should be less than five ten thousandths at the edge of the adapter plate.” When we say “the run out should be less than five ten thousandths at the edge of the adapter plate” we are referring to the following number: 0.0005 One ten thousandth being 0.0001 inches. The limit for adapter plate run out is 0.0005 inches.
@@MrThisIsMeToo your not a real man if you have to wear gloves in a machine shop;does that mean he wears gloves when he loads and unloads parts ;so he doesn't get coolant on his soft hands.I laugh at those people that don't like coolant on them.
Any tips for removing the jaws ? I am using SL-40 lathe ( was only programming before ). The problem is that screws are really tight and i have no idea how to loosen them without damaging the chuck. Do i need to use some M function? Can i do this when jaws are fully closed ? Thanks for help or step by step instructions...
I can´t imagine having to stop the chuck by wrench, not using M19.... On our Doosans just press the chuck lock button (Fanuc Oi-TC) or just write M19;...
I don't know anything about this industry and/or this Haas company but for sure they have embraced modern corporate communication and watching their videos is quite fascinating for anyone loving mechanical stuff. Well done Haas.
super useful, I wish I had this video when I learned. would have saved a LOT of time. corroded drawtubes are a major pain...must pay attention to the preventative maintenance!
Great to read *****, thanks for the comment. We hope this video can help a lot of people dealing with corroded drawtubes and more. All the best.
What we have on our machines ( Tobacco Industry ) is a tap ( M16 ) on top of each heavy subassembly. We can screw in a tube or rod and a high matching eyebolt. Install that and than U can easyly unscrew the subassemly - chuck in this case - , slide it out of their mounting taps without worrying about the height or demaging. Also no need for this adjustable spanner to unscrew. After that , the subassembly can be lifted out of the machine by crane or if possible by hand. 100000 x easier...
i always find your videos very educating. great work guys and thanks
At 3:15, or it might be that I would tell the boss that the chuck needs to be cleaned after 5 years that no maintenance was done to it.
So what do you do when the chuck jaws are stuck closed? Don't want to damage the threads on the draw tube or nut.
If you have several of the same lathes with the same chuck is it advisable to have a spare chuck so that at 6 month intervals you can pull the current chuck, replace it with the spare, then work on the removed chuck? If so, what is the range of prices for a chuck?
A spring between the crane and lifting eye would make all steps much easier as it would make the part essentially float by hand
I'm an instructor at a community college in the Precision Machining Technology program. I'd like to utilize this video as part of one of my classes. Is there a way to obtain a saveable copy so that I don't have to log onto TH-cam each time? If not, I can just record the name of the video and revisit TH-cam. Thanks!
This video was extremely useful when we installed our collet chuck. But we are having issues with accuracy when the bar feeder pushes. It's a dead length style collet. Any tips? Thanks
Hi Jeremy Pryor - Glad to hear the video was of use when you installed your collet chuck! In regards to the issue you mentioned, please email your direct email address and/or phone number to contact@HaasCNC.com, and reference your issue. Someone from our service team can contact you and assist you with this. Thanks Jeremy!
@@haasautomation can you please give me dimensions for making a 8" chuck chip cover for either samchully or kitagawa ?
is there a video like this for 4th axis chucks?
I just showed this video to a customer today :-)
Very nice video, now i just need a Haas ST 30 SSY haha
Thanks wery much. This video is really good help for me
Regarding the TL-1, isn't the spindle tapered? And I think you can find manual chucks that mount directly on to the A2-5 nose.
Hello and thank you for the question Laurence Babey. You are correct, the A2-5 spindle nose on the TL-1 is indeed tapered. There are manual chucks available that locate directly on the tapered spindle face. The chucks that we presently supply with these machines have an adapter plate which engages the taper, but the chuck body itself is bolted to the adapter plate and this allows a slight amount of adjustment between the two. This is the area we adjust in the video. Thanks again.
Best practice to avoid rust while chucks are in storage?
Spray with wd40 & cover.
so is it called a spindle dog or a drive dog which is what they call it in my manual?
Demounting of the chuck can much simple!
I have a 10 year old machine at work, st20 chuck has never been removed or maintained..should I even try? Previous people in power since removed, believed these machines were "self-maintaining."
who_picks_what_words_are?
- The chuck drawtube nut may be rusted in place on the drawtube threads, in which case it will probably be very difficult to remove. But if you can get the chuck drawtube nut to rotate freely then it would be a great idea to pull the chuck off and clean and lubricate it thoroughly. We have a step-by-step chuck maintenance video if you choose to remove your chuck. Haas Automation
very very usefull video Haas trhanks for your support......
wow its very helpful,thanks for a great job guys,please dont stop with it..
dudo haruska How are you Jews setiga legaveja hidi
any tips for diving into programming lathes. New job ... wanna impress. 10 years machining. . .thnx in advance.
david Brown Our online DIY resource center would be a great place to start. If you're learning how to program, all of the tools linked here are very useful! Start here and check out the programming workbooks and the G- and M-code section: diy.haascnc.com/customer-service-center-categories/manuals-documentation/1176. Hope this helps David!
why can't you just remove the drawtube while the 6 chuck to adapter plate mounting bolts are still tight?
So useful. I've done this on my st-30 a few times now. But it's been a while. I have the same chuck as shown in this video 10". Can you help me on what torque specs the bolts for the chuck and adaptor plate should be at? I had them in some notes but can't find them thanks.
I’ve worked in 8 precision engineering companies and not one of them goes through all this fannying about. Wizz it off and give it a blast with the airline.....done!
Holy Mackerel! Using tweezers!? I can understand, but a boss that doesn't or does'nt wanto understand?!
That's the hard way of putting it on... Bolt the chuck on first. Make the draw bar is all the way back before bolting. Once bolted . Step on the foot pedal to have draw move forward. Once forward insert the chuck key and begin to thread it on... You will never have a problem,I guarantee it... Plus you'll never chew up the threads on the dram bar... Especially if you switch between a collet chuck and 3 jaw chuck as much as I do...
hello,how much time we have to do the cleaning.
Hello yusuf kenan ersoy and thank you for the question. If the question is “How often should I service my chuck?” the answer is: Most of the chuck manufacturers recommend removing and servicing the chuck every 6 months. This interval will definitely help achieve the longest possible life of the chuck components.
It’s also a good idea to remove the chip cover from the center bore regularly to check that you don’t have corrosion or excessive chip build up where the drawtube and draw nut connect. If the draw nut becomes rusted to the draw tube the two can become extremely difficult to separate. At the end of the video we see an example of what can happen when maintenance is neglected. With the chip cover off you can also see how well the master jaws and sliding wedge are lubricated. Don’t forget to re-install the chip cover.
Haas Automation, Inc. I'm sorry, my english is not good, I thank you, because we have learned a lot.
Excellent informative video.
So what do you do if...
- No matter how much weight you take off the chuck with a hoist.
- E stop the jaws half way between close/open.
And the drawnut still cannot be removed, then what?
Cause I didn't see no answer to that.
When the draw nut gets tight reset the e-stop and let it move a tad and hit e-stop again. This does the trick for me on one of ours.
What is the name of that black device which used to loosen chuck? Regards
hosseinranjbar2810, At Haas we typically refer to this tool as a "Draw Nut Wrench" or "Hydraulic Chuck Assembly Handle". These come with the chucks on Haas lathes and also typically come along with hydraulic chucks purchased from any reputable vendor.
how do yuo slow down the tool arms speed the ones we have come down to fast and bounce and it keeps throwing the setter off
Reply ·
I want to remove vibrations created in my cnc due to large tool overhanging ( id boring dia 40mm tool overhanging 160mm normal local holder) please suggest any solutions to solve it
Try wrapping rubber bands around the boring bar ;that might help.How much material are u taking off each pass
That was fantastic and helpful and very good visual information
Congratulations.
you are allowed 5 * 0.01 = 0.05 run out on the adapter plate realy ? or is that a syntax error?
Hello and thank you for the question Chris Binkowski.
In the video we say “... and check the face runout of the adapter plate. The run out should be less than five ten thousandths at the edge of the adapter plate.”
When we say “the run out should be less than five ten thousandths at the edge of the adapter plate” we are referring to the following number: 0.0005
One ten thousandth being 0.0001 inches. The limit for adapter plate run out is 0.0005 inches.
En español por favor , gracias
Thanks for such usefull stuff.
HOWTO DISC ALINMENT IN BMT 45 TURRET OF SAUTHER
Not that bright are we?
www.haascnc.com/service/troubleshooting-and-how-to/how-to/sl-10-20-30--st-10-10y---motor-coupling---alignment.html
Nice video, but - always wear protection- (examination-) gloves if you handle with grease, oil, or cleanser !
Nobody likes a Safety Sally!
Maybe - but only idiots will ruin their health. Take care!
@@MrThisIsMeToo your not a real man if you have to wear gloves in a machine shop;does that mean he wears gloves when he loads and unloads parts ;so he doesn't get coolant on his soft hands.I laugh at those people that don't like coolant on them.
thank you
Use M19 to stuck the spindel
m14 is better
Any tips for removing the jaws ? I am using SL-40 lathe ( was only programming before ). The problem is that screws are really tight and i have no idea how to loosen them without damaging the chuck. Do i need to use some M function? Can i do this when jaws are fully closed ? Thanks for help or step by step instructions...
use full instructions
13:41 you aint foolin nobody you re-used the shot from when it was incorrectly set
7:00 lol. what bout 10 years? same as never its factory sealed lol
At the beginning you need to set a very low pressure. Correct me if I'm wrong, please !!!
I wonder who the sponsors of this video are.
very usfull evry time watch thanking you sir
Eat a tripple whopper and you dontt need a crane
Понятное видио, спасибо
Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , robot arm gear , joint acurator , over 30 years experience ,
your tech just used a torque wrench to loosen bolts. lol.
M19 lest gooo. Turkis 😀
I can´t imagine having to stop the chuck by wrench, not using M19.... On our Doosans just press the chuck lock button (Fanuc Oi-TC) or just write M19;...
拆爪子螺丝 直接用主轴锁死不就好了。
If there were only a tool that would prevent you from having to this at all! Oh my friends there is! Check out Nub Tools' Collet Master Jaw System
Nc. Autto feair òpeandr
good 中国
no entedi nada.
Haha sukkels
Поставляют не исправные станки. Обязательства не исполняют. Сервис дерьмо. Продам это дерьмо что купил
it's like changing tyres