While digital is great you never know when you're gonna want to have an analogue switch to allow you to run analogue cars. I'd therefore recommend wire tapping the lanes separately. This way works with both analogue and digital.
Ah Ha!!!... This is THE episode I've been waiting for!!! Thanks John! You are such a great teacher! I love how precise and meticulous you are in your thinking and execution. I know it's not germane to this 1/32 scale Carrera Glendale Project video series, but as I am thinking of recreating your Glendale 65 layout in 1/64 scale A/FX track, I would love to hear your thoughts and opinion on how YOU would do the Power Taps and solve the Power Distribution question for that scenario. Who knows... perhaps one night when you can't sleep because you've taken in too much caffeine from over-indulging in the chocolate milk? ;-) Thanks for sharing another great video with your fans!
Actually, I had a 33' 4 lane AFX setup before this one, and I can tell you exactly how I did the power sections. I glued sections together making sections 6 to 8 feet long. When dry, I soldered short jumpers UNDER the track, electrically bridging each gap in the section. Then I soldered power leads to that section. The track was adhered down to the surface using dabs of silicone caulk. The 6-8 foot sections were just snapped together, as they each had their own power taps, so the joint between the assembled sections has no effect. All rail joints were filed smooth, and all the joints in the track sections were filled, then painted. Ran SUPER smooth!! Thanks for the comments!!!
Another excellent video, I am learning such a lot from you! Am returning to the hobby after some years and am moving to Carrera in my retirement. My track will be heaps smaller than yours but I am hoping it will be great fun. Thanks again for posting, all the best from Western Australia!🇦🇺👍😎
Thank you!! There is nothing wrong with a small layout, and can actually be more fun to drive than one with a lot of long straights. Make sure you share!! I'd love to see it!!
Thought about skipping over the wiring episodes, since hey I've been wiring all kinds of tracks for forty years right? So glad I watched! I learned a lot. Thanks John!
What do I need to “wire tap” my 40’ analog track? I understand how the wire gets attached to the track but what is the power source? I just have the old carrera power supply for digital. There’s no wire terminals on it.
This is Great stuff but, I've purchased the High Priced Carrera wire tap @ 5m. I'm sure as you know " They " did not go with Black & Red. They chose Black & White and Red & Yellow. Then they printed the instructions in Black and White. . . . WTF right? ! ? How am I, a Newbie to slot car racing on a 1:24th scale, how am I suppose to know what color goes where? Or, with their wire tap the colors only matter in relation to what color went to positive leading from the track @ the Control unit for both lanes & then match those colors to the desired location where the power is the weakest which in my case is Right before the pit lane coming out of a radius 1/60 degree hairpin turn with a 1/3rd straight right before the pit lane change sensor. Can you help me out or. . . . point me in the right direction to someone Who is using the Carrera product? Thanks for Any Feedback! { I've had this wire tap now for 5mos. and it still has the OEM plastic on it! }
Easy... each track has 4 rails (2 for each lane). Color doesn't matter, but let's say yellow is on rail 1 at the CU, the other end of the yellow should be on the same rail.
Hi John. Came across your Channel while researching digital slot cars. Well it's 10 hours +, and I'm ready to stop model railroading after a 5 year indever. Ready for something new. Expect questions on up coming videos. What Carrera digital track set is the best bang for my buck$.
Welcome aboard!! As far as sets go, and if you're interested in digital 1/32 vs 1/24 (both use the same track), for me it was a question if I wanted a set with wired controllers and 3 cars, or a set that had wireless controllers and 2 cars. I suggest the wireless route, as it allows everyone full access to the layout without having to leave the controller behind. Bang for the buck, cars are much cheaper than the wireless controllers. I usually get my cars under $50 shipped.
Where do the power taps connect at the non track piece end? When I connect directly to the power supply I have 12v at the track without the control panel turned on . Is that correct ? With one tap wired direct to the output of the power supply and turning the control panel on the car the car doesn't move
I used 16g wire for everything. Bigger than necessary, but that is good. The only circuit that most likely should be 16g is the wiring used to power the remote mounted charging stations. I chose 16g based on length of circuit, not just current draw.
Does the use of 2 main tap wires to one lane, and jumpered to the second lane work on an analogue track, or do you need 2 full sets of jumpers to each section of track?
John, I have watched a lot of your very helpful videos and I have studied your 3 videos on track wiring. I have my wire completed and I have no idea how to set up my new DC power supply. Do you have a video on power supple set up and installation? Many thax
Hi. The only PS I use is for benchtop use only, I still use the factory power supply from the Carrera CU. If you are looking to change out the factory power supply for the CU, simply cut the plug that goes into the CU off the factory PS, and wire to the new DC Power Supply (mind polarity!). Keep the voltage in range (too high will cause damage, too low will cause reliability issues) and that's it...
Great video. Are you using an external power supply? How are you wiring the control unit. And then all your taps where are they going. Im new to this and would love to see how you do all of wiring. This was super informative as I will utilize your videos when I start my build, which is coming soon. Thanks
Hi, and thank you! I outlined where I am putting in power taps back in Episode 9. Might be more than you might think, but I am after reliability. Lessons learned from my HO slot car days. And I am using the stock CU for now, but will upgrade to a bigger PS in the future.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks for taking time to answer my question I just recently retired Issa play with slot cars when I was a kid it's very fascinating I'm going to get back into it thanks for all the education
What have I got myself into I may have to watch this several times I plan on expanding my track as I can afford I hope I can buy power supply with out all the wires I’m not electric guy I’m retired Ironworker so I’m going to need your help from time to time if possible
I cannot endorse using duct tape as electrical insulators. With age, the adhesive fails and you can peel off the tape portion. I would recommend a 3M thick electrical mastic or tape.
The duct tape is NOT for electrical insulation. It's to provide stability and sort-of strain relief until the parts are in place and wired in. Where soldered wires are joined, full wrap with UL listed electrical tape is used for insulation.
Hi John, I am not using terminal blocks for connections and I just have the stock 18v power supply (1:24 scale) connected to the control unit. My question is where do I hook or connect all of the power taps that I've run from various sections of the track to a power source? there are no screws on the control unit to connect them all to. I am an avid viewer of SCM. Thanks, Ron
@@slotcarmayhem9765, Thanks John for getting back to me. So a continuous daisy-chain will maintain the same voltage from the beginning all the way to where ever the end maybe? Should I use the 16ga. wire you mention on your channel as well? Thanks again, Ron
@@19Zeek56 I find the 16ga easier to use, but 18ga should be adequate electrically. Never hurts to go bigger. Yes, daisy chain works. The goal is to electrically bypass track joints.
just want to say first how I really enjoy your videos, very thorough, very educative. you're doing an amazing job with this track. very much looking forward to following the progress and seeing the end result! now I am just warming up with the hobby and getting me my first startset (DTM Furore) and some additional track pieces and digital items for Christmas :) so, looking to the future, I have a question on the wiring of extra power feed-ins. can you explain a bit more the part when you come with two wires from the power tap on the track piece to that junction block with 24 terminals (at about 18:50 mark of the video). what are all the other wires for which are already connected to that terminal? where are they going (what's on the other end)? and why do you connect the two new wires to two terminals that are already occupied (and what are they occupied with?), when you have 10 free terminals still available +7 more on the other side of that particular junction block? (yes, I'm a social sciences guy...) also, do you use any aftermarket DC power supply devices (like say 30V/10A)? I hear they are a must if one plans on extending the track layout. what are its purposes/benefits? many thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!! First off, I have terminals that are numbered and each number has a specific use. In the case you question, #1 is the + track power, #2 is the - track power. #3 and #4 are the + for the roadway lighting (street lights), 2 channels. Terminal #5 is the comon ground (-) for the street lights. #6,7,8 and 9 wont be used on this side of the track, but are reserved elsewhere for structure lighting. The remaining 3 are for any future use. This method makes it very easy to know where to land terminals (even if wire color is different). As far as external power supply, I am not using one yet, but will in the future. The main benefit is little to zero reduction in voltage at the rails when running lots of cars at once. Hope this helps!!
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks a lot for the quick response! And I do have two more things that need clarifying.. the detail I'm missing here is how do you get the power to the junction block (to be able to then take it up to the power tap on the particular track piece)? I'm guessing the junction block on the other end connects to the control unit, i.e. power source, right? If so, how do you connect the wires at that end? Do you disassemble the CU? On the non-stock DC power supply (btw I see they are sold as lab equipment): does what you say mean if you have one, you need not create these power feed-ins around the track? Huge thanks again!
@@sanjvla good questions!! Yes, I relocated the CU, but if you dont want to, you can feed wires from the CU track itself for power feeds. The CU disassy is shown in Episode 14 of the Glendale 65. I am also releasing a video outlining the exact wiring for the track, in graphic form, so one can see as a whole. The timing of your question is perfect!! As far as a lab power supply goes, I still suggest power taps. The power taps reduce the number of track joints between power sources, thus reducing voltage drop.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Do you have a picture of the layout of your track made from one of the programs to design tracks? Do you mind sharing it? I might be wrong, but did you post some of the updates of your track in a slot forum? thanks.
Hello... This should help. If you are leaving the CU in place, just tap from the CU and run to joists (red/black). th-cam.com/video/y_L5qRo6Hmk/w-d-xo.html
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Thank you for your prompt answer, bud I don´t know, what to do. Because of lenght of track (11meters) I wired track, but allways the same problem from the beginning as seen in the video. While driving , suddenly the control unit starts flashing and beeping and the cars stop. This signal sometimes stops after a few seconds, sometimes longer, or only after the control unit is switched off and on. This error repeats differently, sometimes once for five minutes while driving, sometimes much more often. This problem arises when driving cars separately, but also together. drive.google.com/file/d/1HA_QaNh1mkCk6WgzoeKPJaRPOquNvI4R/view
I've heard of this problem before, sometimes because of wiring, or other accessories attached. I would start with no accessories plugged into the track (position tower, wireless charging stations, etc.) and see if that fixes the problem. I would then disconnect ALL power taps, and check. Could even be a strand of braid inside a lane change... Let me know please.. we will figure it out!!🙂
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Hello! Today I received the accessories they asked me from Carrera - CU, controllers, cars. Everything is OK. They wrote me that I can't use more cars like a ghost car. However, Carrera's official website states: In principle, a maximum number of 8 cars can be run at one time. For instance: 6 cars being controlled actively + 2 Ghost Cars - or 8 as Ghost Cars, with no more cars actively controlled. Source: www.carrera-toys.com/en/5032/faq-s. OK. However, the cars stop even when the ghost car is not driving. Even if drives one car. They also wrote to me that the cars are stopping because my circuit is long and that the circuit does not have enough electrical current. The circuit is 11 meters long. I did wiring according to the instructions and the problem is still the same. Even with wiring, even without it. Will it be a solution if I will shorten the circuit to its original state? I wouldn't want that:( What can be done?
First off, 132 or 124 scale cars? (They have different power requirements). Yes, you can have more than 1 ghost car (132), and the latest version of Smart Race supports that. I currently run 2-3 ghost cars with zero issue. 11 meters is not long, but a power tap can help. If the cars are stopping, is the CU beeping? If so, that is an electrical short. I'd check braids on the cars, or look for a braid strand on the track itself. That being said, clean track is happy track. The same goes for the cars... I would start by running 1 driver controlled car. If that works fine, add a ghost car. If issues arise then, I'd check the ghost car, and maybe reprogram a known good runner as a ghost car and try again. Let me know please!!
The controllers are wireless, and send a digital signal through the rails. If you are curious, episode 9 explains what they are, and why some people use them.
While digital is great you never know when you're gonna want to have an analogue switch to allow you to run analogue cars. I'd therefore recommend wire tapping the lanes separately. This way works with both analogue and digital.
Chocolate milk.............................nectar of the Gods!
Ah Ha!!!... This is THE episode I've been waiting for!!! Thanks John! You are such a great teacher! I love how precise and meticulous you are in your thinking and execution. I know it's not germane to this 1/32 scale Carrera Glendale Project video series, but as I am thinking of recreating your Glendale 65 layout in 1/64 scale A/FX track, I would love to hear your thoughts and opinion on how YOU would do the Power Taps and solve the Power Distribution question for that scenario. Who knows... perhaps one night when you can't sleep because you've taken in too much caffeine from over-indulging in the chocolate milk? ;-) Thanks for sharing another great video with your fans!
Actually, I had a 33' 4 lane AFX setup before this one, and I can tell you exactly how I did the power sections. I glued sections together making sections 6 to 8 feet long. When dry, I soldered short jumpers UNDER the track, electrically bridging each gap in the section. Then I soldered power leads to that section. The track was adhered down to the surface using dabs of silicone caulk. The 6-8 foot sections were just snapped together, as they each had their own power taps, so the joint between the assembled sections has no effect. All rail joints were filed smooth, and all the joints in the track sections were filled, then painted. Ran SUPER smooth!! Thanks for the comments!!!
Another excellent video, I am learning such a lot from you! Am returning to the hobby after some years and am moving to Carrera in my retirement. My track will be heaps smaller than yours but I am hoping it will be great fun. Thanks again for posting, all the best from Western Australia!🇦🇺👍😎
Thank you!! There is nothing wrong with a small layout, and can actually be more fun to drive than one with a lot of long straights. Make sure you share!! I'd love to see it!!
Thought about skipping over the wiring episodes, since hey I've been wiring all kinds of tracks for forty years right? So glad I watched! I learned a lot. Thanks John!
What do I need to “wire tap” my 40’ analog track? I understand how the wire gets attached to the track but what is the power source? I just have the old carrera power supply for digital. There’s no wire terminals on it.
Just jump from the cu track section and fan out from there.
This is Great stuff but, I've purchased the High Priced Carrera wire tap @ 5m. I'm sure as you
know " They " did not go with Black & Red. They chose Black & White and Red & Yellow. Then
they printed the instructions in Black and White. . . . WTF right? ! ? How am I, a Newbie to slot
car racing on a 1:24th scale, how am I suppose to know what color goes where? Or, with their
wire tap the colors only matter in relation to what color went to positive leading from the track
@ the Control unit for both lanes & then match those colors to the desired location where the
power is the weakest which in my case is Right before the pit lane coming out of a radius 1/60
degree hairpin turn with a 1/3rd straight right before the pit lane change sensor.
Can you help me out or. . . . point me in the right direction to someone Who is using the Carrera
product?
Thanks for Any Feedback!
{ I've had this wire tap now for 5mos. and it still has the OEM plastic on it! }
Easy... each track has 4 rails (2 for each lane). Color doesn't matter, but let's say yellow is on rail 1 at the CU, the other end of the yellow should be on the same rail.
Ty
Hi John. Came across your Channel while researching digital slot cars. Well it's 10 hours +, and I'm ready to stop model railroading after a 5 year indever. Ready for something new. Expect questions on up coming videos. What Carrera digital track set is the best bang for my buck$.
Welcome aboard!! As far as sets go, and if you're interested in digital 1/32 vs 1/24 (both use the same track), for me it was a question if I wanted a set with wired controllers and 3 cars, or a set that had wireless controllers and 2 cars. I suggest the wireless route, as it allows everyone full access to the layout without having to leave the controller behind. Bang for the buck, cars are much cheaper than the wireless controllers. I usually get my cars under $50 shipped.
Where do the power taps connect at the non track piece end? When I connect directly to the power supply I have 12v at the track without the control panel turned on . Is that correct ? With one tap wired direct to the output of the power supply and turning the control panel on the car the car doesn't move
I assume you are using an external power supply? If so, the power supply actually replaces the power supply that comes with the Control unit.
What size wire is used for the taps? 16 gauge or larger it just looks big in the video
I used 16g wire for everything. Bigger than necessary, but that is good.
The only circuit that most likely should be 16g is the wiring used to power the remote mounted charging stations.
I chose 16g based on length of circuit, not just current draw.
Does the use of 2 main tap wires to one lane, and jumpered to the second lane work on an analogue track, or do you need 2 full sets of jumpers to each section of track?
For analog, 2 full sets of jumpers.
Hi John great video. I detected a little Bob Ross in your description of the wire stripping and crimping
John, I have watched a lot of your very helpful videos and I have studied your 3 videos on track wiring. I have my wire completed and I have no idea how to set up my new DC power supply. Do you have a video on power supple set up and installation? Many thax
Hi. The only PS I use is for benchtop use only, I still use the factory power supply from the Carrera CU.
If you are looking to change out the factory power supply for the CU, simply cut the plug that goes into the CU off the factory PS, and wire to the new DC Power Supply (mind polarity!). Keep the voltage in range (too high will cause damage, too low will cause reliability issues) and that's it...
@@slotcarmayhem9765 John, thank you for getting back to me.....much appreciated!
You're most welcome!!
Great video. Are you using an external power supply? How are you wiring the control unit. And then all your taps where are they going. Im new to this and would love to see how you do all of wiring. This was super informative as I will utilize your videos when I start my build, which is coming soon. Thanks
Hi, and thank you! I outlined where I am putting in power taps back in Episode 9. Might be more than you might think, but I am after reliability. Lessons learned from my HO slot car days. And I am using the stock CU for now, but will upgrade to a bigger PS in the future.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks for taking time to answer my question I just recently retired Issa play with slot cars when I was a kid it's very fascinating I'm going to get back into it thanks for all the education
Just another question can I have fun with a ho set to start with
@@tomlucio8458 of course!! I recently dismantled a 4×8 4 lane HO we used to run. Lots of fun!!!
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks for returning your my call
Are you using 15 amp or 25 amp terminal blocks?
Actually, I think they are 10 amp, per terminal. Max CU amperage is 8 amps.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks
What have I got myself into I may have to watch this several times I plan on expanding my track as I can afford I hope I can buy power supply with out all the wires I’m not electric guy I’m retired Ironworker so I’m going to need your help from time to time if possible
Absolutely!!!
Thanks John, very good detail on this episode.
I cannot endorse using duct tape as electrical insulators. With age, the adhesive fails and you can peel off the tape portion. I would recommend a 3M thick electrical mastic or tape.
The duct tape is NOT for electrical insulation. It's to provide stability and sort-of strain relief until the parts are in place and wired in. Where soldered wires are joined, full wrap with UL listed electrical tape is used for insulation.
do you have a amazon parts list for your distribution terminals and or all the stuff used?
I will put one together for you...
Hi John, I am not using terminal blocks for connections and I just have the stock 18v power supply (1:24 scale) connected to the control unit. My question is where do I hook or connect all of the power taps that I've run from various sections of the track to a power source? there are no screws on the control unit to connect them all to. I am an avid viewer of SCM. Thanks, Ron
You can connect to a track section next to the CU, and daisy-chain from there. Thanks for your support!!
@@slotcarmayhem9765, Thanks John for getting back to me. So a continuous daisy-chain will maintain the same voltage from the beginning all the way to where ever the end maybe? Should I use the 16ga. wire you mention on your channel as well? Thanks again, Ron
@@19Zeek56 I find the 16ga easier to use, but 18ga should be adequate electrically. Never hurts to go bigger. Yes, daisy chain works. The goal is to electrically bypass track joints.
just want to say first how I really enjoy your videos, very thorough, very educative. you're doing an amazing job with this track. very much looking forward to following the progress and seeing the end result! now I am just warming up with the hobby and getting me my first startset (DTM Furore) and some additional track pieces and digital items for Christmas :) so, looking to the future, I have a question on the wiring of extra power feed-ins. can you explain a bit more the part when you come with two wires from the power tap on the track piece to that junction block with 24 terminals (at about 18:50 mark of the video). what are all the other wires for which are already connected to that terminal? where are they going (what's on the other end)? and why do you connect the two new wires to two terminals that are already occupied (and what are they occupied with?), when you have 10 free terminals still available +7 more on the other side of that particular junction block? (yes, I'm a social sciences guy...)
also, do you use any aftermarket DC power supply devices (like say 30V/10A)? I hear they are a must if one plans on extending the track layout. what are its purposes/benefits?
many thanks!
Thanks for the kind words!! First off, I have terminals that are numbered and each number has a specific use. In the case you question, #1 is the + track power, #2 is the - track power. #3 and #4 are the + for the roadway lighting (street lights), 2 channels. Terminal #5 is the comon ground (-) for the street lights. #6,7,8 and 9 wont be used on this side of the track, but are reserved elsewhere for structure lighting. The remaining 3 are for any future use. This method makes it very easy to know where to land terminals (even if wire color is different).
As far as external power supply, I am not using one yet, but will in the future. The main benefit is little to zero reduction in voltage at the rails when running lots of cars at once.
Hope this helps!!
@@slotcarmayhem9765 thanks a lot for the quick response! And I do have two more things that need clarifying.. the detail I'm missing here is how do you get the power to the junction block (to be able to then take it up to the power tap on the particular track piece)? I'm guessing the junction block on the other end connects to the control unit, i.e. power source, right? If so, how do you connect the wires at that end? Do you disassemble the CU?
On the non-stock DC power supply (btw I see they are sold as lab equipment): does what you say mean if you have one, you need not create these power feed-ins around the track?
Huge thanks again!
@@sanjvla good questions!! Yes, I relocated the CU, but if you dont want to, you can feed wires from the CU track itself for power feeds. The CU disassy is shown in Episode 14 of the Glendale 65.
I am also releasing a video outlining the exact wiring for the track, in graphic form, so one can see as a whole. The timing of your question is perfect!!
As far as a lab power supply goes, I still suggest power taps. The power taps reduce the number of track joints between power sources, thus reducing voltage drop.
@@slotcarmayhem9765 ok got it, and many thanks, will be watching out for your next video :)
This is one of the best video i have seen about slotcars and track. Thanks John for putting these videos up. You deserved your chocolate milk!;-)
Thank you!!
Always trying...😁😁
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Do you have a picture of the layout of your track made from one of the programs to design tracks? Do you mind sharing it? I might be wrong, but did you post some of the updates of your track in a slot forum? thanks.
@@grussello09 l will... and yes, I am on a couple forums. Trying to learn as I go... lots of good folks!!
Hallo. Could be you so kind a tell (show) me, how to join this wired piece with control unit? (carrera d132) Thank you.
Hello... This should help. If you are leaving the CU in place, just tap from the CU and run to joists (red/black).
th-cam.com/video/y_L5qRo6Hmk/w-d-xo.html
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Thank you for your prompt answer, bud I don´t know, what to do. Because of lenght of track (11meters) I wired track, but allways the same problem from the beginning as seen in the video. While driving , suddenly the control unit starts flashing and beeping and the cars stop. This signal sometimes stops after a few seconds, sometimes longer, or only after the control unit is switched off and on. This error repeats differently, sometimes once for five minutes while driving, sometimes much more often. This problem arises when driving cars separately, but also together. drive.google.com/file/d/1HA_QaNh1mkCk6WgzoeKPJaRPOquNvI4R/view
I've heard of this problem before, sometimes because of wiring, or other accessories attached. I would start with no accessories plugged into the track (position tower, wireless charging stations, etc.) and see if that fixes the problem. I would then disconnect ALL power taps, and check.
Could even be a strand of braid inside a lane change...
Let me know please.. we will figure it out!!🙂
@@slotcarmayhem9765 Hello!
Today I received the accessories they asked me from Carrera - CU, controllers, cars. Everything is OK. They wrote me that I can't use more cars like a ghost car. However, Carrera's official website states: In principle, a maximum number of 8 cars can be run at one time. For instance: 6 cars being controlled actively + 2 Ghost Cars - or 8 as Ghost Cars, with no more cars actively controlled. Source: www.carrera-toys.com/en/5032/faq-s. OK. However, the cars stop even when the ghost car is not driving. Even if drives one car.
They also wrote to me that the cars are stopping because my circuit is long and that the circuit does not have enough electrical current.
The circuit is 11 meters long. I did wiring according to the instructions and the problem is still the same. Even with wiring, even without it. Will it be a solution if I will shorten the circuit to its original state? I wouldn't want that:( What can be done?
First off, 132 or 124 scale cars? (They have different power requirements).
Yes, you can have more than 1 ghost car (132), and the latest version of Smart Race supports that. I currently run 2-3 ghost cars with zero issue.
11 meters is not long, but a power tap can help. If the cars are stopping, is the CU beeping? If so, that is an electrical short. I'd check braids on the cars, or look for a braid strand on the track itself.
That being said, clean track is happy track. The same goes for the cars...
I would start by running 1 driver controlled car. If that works fine, add a ghost car. If issues arise then, I'd check the ghost car, and maybe reprogram a known good runner as a ghost car and try again.
Let me know please!!
I don't understand this
What are you not understanding? I will clarify if there are any questions...
@@slotcarmayhem9765 is this wiring for the remote controls
@@slotcarmayhem9765 is this wiring for the remote controls
@@tomlucio8458 no sir... This is to distribute power evenly to the entire layout to avoid slow spots created by track joints.
The controllers are wireless, and send a digital signal through the rails. If you are curious, episode 9 explains what they are, and why some people use them.