Yes definitely helped me out !!! Once i got the general idea the wheels start turning and i always come up with something .. now all i gotta do is wait for warm weather !!!!
Great instructional video.Unlike so many videos intended to deliver what you did, it's truly e educational.Thank you for sharing all needed directions with just the right amount of detailed explanations, without boring the audience with stories about your sporting event, breakfast bagel or favorite pet!
Thank you so much! I am trying to make a new burner pan for my fire feature after cutting out the old rusted pan-your video (plus industrial metal supply) was just what I needed!
Very cool. I have a project ATV that needs floorboards. 2pieces of metal, each with 2bends. I'm going to have to try this because I can't afford a machine for 4 short bends. Thanks for posting this 👍👍
Fabulous video! I was just told by my makerspace that they could not help me build molds for my fused glass designs. I am definitely going to try this technique. Thank you so much.
Cool, I'm a kiln worker also. My use of SS is a bit different though. I'm making 'graphite paddles', only with SS. Using various graphite paddles, I have discovered that they always leave a pattern on the molten glass. With flat stainless I hope to avoid that pattern, but with SS, you can only touch the molten glass1 for a second or two at the most, so it's a real 'hit and run' operation.
Thanks so much Doug. Very interesting and informative video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
I think this is a great video. I have watched many old school tradesman fix or fab up things with these old time must know "tricks of the trade". These simple, but not always easy tasks separate the men from the boys. Thanks for sharing, as this type of knowledge benefits young men out there trying to become skilled tradesmen.
I was just told that it is impossible to bend 16 guage stainless steel without a giant industrial box brake bender from a machine shop with giant brakes. Your doing dark arts and black magic! Update: Using this method I was able to bend a 16 guage stainless steel 3" deep pan. I folded the tabs in just like a box. The dimensions were 48" x 30". Used sheet metal vicegrips and 2 copper pipes to assist bending. Welded with cheap Harbor freight Welder. Sanded with 80 grit to 3000 grit for mirror finish. Then clear coated.
Exactly what I was looking for a easy way to bend stainless steel at home with out a brake, gonna make a camper trailer kitchen from my old stainless steel bbq
I did some tool boxes a way back and use that same approach , to be the first tool boxes I made it was a great satisfaction, is good to se a pro reinforcing what I was thinking was bad
Thanks mate, that's excellent. I've got that stuff around so I can start work building my forge. I've been looking at my sheet of 8' x 4' x 1/8" with some trepidation, but the angle grinder should subdue the monster with care. Good 'ealth, John Warner, Australia
I'm trying too make a small sheet metal fuse relay box for under the hood around 9x5x2" I didn't know how expensive thay are even the cheapest plastic ones. Thanks for the video .
So helpful! Thanks for sharing. I want to make a small container to fit a tight space. How do you close the gap after bending all four sides? I can’t tell. Was it welded together?
It's the ubiquitous flexible fabric bandaid that makes this real. Anyone, doing anything in their shop who isn't wearing one is a pretender. Thanks a lot for this. I have an old, inheritied, steel table Craftsman table saw that I use for bending the once a decade times I need to bend sheet metal. If I want a sharper radius I use a 2x4 and a 4 pound sledge and then the sledge by itself. Obviously I never bend for pretty. Thanks again.
Thanks Doug. No link to the VG bender tool. I am going to attempt to bend 0.125 aluminum diamond tread using this method. I like the radius bend, so to not crack the metal... if I can figure out how to allow for the radius. I have bent this metal before by clamping, like you did, but used a hammer and arm strength, but of course, hammer leaves dents.
I’m working on bending a 10’ 22-gauge zinc sheet for a countertop. I’ve already made two by using a deadblow hammer to mallet the edges down. It gives the edges a cool hammered look which gets lots of compliments, but it takes forever. Any tips for bending longer pieces of metal more efficiently?
Seeing as you mentioned it, I was considering getting the 18 inch brake from Harbor freight to bend 16 gauge SS to 90 degrees. Fools errand or doable, what do you think?
@herbfellows6435 it has a difficult time bending 16g stainless. If you can mount it to a solid surface, extend the ability to apply pressure (breaker bar etc. ) and possibly weld a stronger spine along the brake blade, it could work better.
Any recommendations for getting a clean bend when you need it so far from the end of the material that you can't use those vise grips and C-clamps only go so far from the sides? I've been using a four pound hammer and forming the sheet to the edge of my workbench (1/2" steel tabletop). Also using 16 gauge and I think it's probably better to cut and weld for this size job. Except you should see my welds...
Great video! Thanks! I have to replace some sections of 16 gauge sheet metal on an old 1948 Missouri Pacific caboose roof. Likely around 60 feet altogether, and I am thinking in 8 foot long (max) sections since that is what I am seeing available. Can this technique be used for pieces as long as 8 feet? It's for the edges of the caboose, so the pieces will be rounded over instead of a tight bend.
Thank you for this great video and providing an alternative. Wouldn't the cut in the metal weaken the strength of the metal. I need to do a Z cut with only 2 inches in between for the channeled floor pan on my hot rod . Do you usually add a bead of welding to increase rigidity?
Great point! It all depends on the project for me. Sometimes I will had a bead along the corner to strengthen. If I'm making a simple tray of a project with less concern for strength and its more for looks, then I don't add the bead.
I'm not sure I'm understanding your question. I've scored the material and bent a 1/2" width with this method. There was no need to bend something wider then cut down to size.
@@ArtfullyRogue I wondered if the vice clamps could get enough leverage on the 16 gauge steel with only 1/2" grab area. Also I thought the clamp itself might impinge on the straight edge to prevent the bend.
When i want a crisp more squared off corner i will do the same thing with the c clamps and then used a rubber mallet to bend it against the edge of the bench
@@ArtfullyRogue I learned the hard way to not overdo the mallet hammering on aluminum bends -- the metal fatigues & thins to the point of cracking! Another tip is to go slower as rapid bending causing internal friction/heats the aluminum and does something to its temper, or so I read somewhere.
What if you put the cut/ score on the inside of the bend? And before you bend it - you give the cut a quick hit with some spray paint to seal it off from rusting?
If you use a wider cut off of wheel bending into the cut is a little better. For this I was using a very thin cut off and bending into the cut causes the two edges to hit and prevents a full 90 degree bend.
I've done that using this method. Moving the top plate furtther back from the line after you've bent the 90, you can keep pushing it beyond the 90 degrees
Is it possible to make an open hem fold on a 16 gauge stainless steel piece that is 1.5 inch width using this method??? I was think if I clamped down a much thinner piece and I bent it up instead of down then it would work - but that’s just me thinking and I have zero experience. I’m desperate for a solution and can’t find a tool to do this that’s under $200.
Awesome, thank you Doug! Have you ever tried bending 11 GA (0.116") carbon steel or thicker with the vice clamps? Did it require scoring with the angle grinder? Thank you!
If it's a seam that will be seen or is a support then yes, I weld it. When I make trays for my water fountains, they typically get powder coated and don't hold any weight so for those, I don't usually weld.
@@luigiprovencher It depends on the kerf of the cut off wheel. I typically use 1/16" kerf on my cut off wheels. If you use a large kerf, like 1/8" I can see how that would work
I believe anytime you remove material it will become less strong. However, I also feel it depends on the project and whether or not dimenshed strength is an issue. I wouldn't use it structural situations, but simple table of shelf would be fine. Keep in mind, this method is for someone that doesn't have access to anytime of brake machine.
@@Kingcyborgt400 You can try that. I find that when heating stainless in warps inconsistently and not like mild steal that seems to heat in the intended area
Bend it the best that you can using the edge of the bench. Then get in there with a block of wood and a hammer still clamped to the bench. And if you use a little art and finesse, it will look as good or better than the bend from the giant hydraulic brake. Not as fast, but also not 10,000 bucks.
Why not perforate with elongated holes along the bent line instead ? It will not lead to fracture as fast as cutting along the ende as you did. Overall a good video though.
I think drilling holes would consume more time and definitely need to be welded afterwards. If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly. Thanks for watching, its greatly appreciated.
@@ArtfullyRogue Depends on the result you want. If you laser cut or water jet cut it´s not a big deal. There are patented perforations especially for that. If you want to bend really thick material which you can´t otherwise it can make sense as well. If you don´t want to weaken the bend which leads to a fatigue fracture as well, scoring the metal will lead to a fatigue fracture for sure and you need to weld that as well, welding holes shut can be easier and faster, again depending on the result you need. It´s usually used for small batch manufacturing or prototyping with precise and easy bends.
@@sierraecho884your fucking kidding right , the video wasn't intended for an audience with access to 100,000 dollar tools you twit .. anyone with that kind of shop will have access to a fucking brake or the financial means to send it out .. Jesus Christ .... you cant be this obtuse.
Yes definitely helped me out !!! Once i got the general idea the wheels start turning and i always come up with something .. now all i gotta do is wait for warm weather !!!!
Thanks Sir I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and skill with us that don’t have the tools or the experience.
It's my pleasure. I'm glad it was helpful
Great instructional video.Unlike so many videos intended to deliver what you did, it's truly e educational.Thank you for sharing all needed directions with just the right amount of detailed explanations, without boring the audience with stories about your sporting event, breakfast bagel or favorite pet!
@@RacheleBenson I'm happy you enjoyed the video. Thank you for watching
Thanks!
Thanks so much for the support
I did buy a vise attachment for bending. Haven’t tried it yet but looking forward to
Good deal, curious how it goes.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video it help me a lot.
Excellent! I'm glad it came in handy
These are great tips for those of us that infrequently bend 20ga sheet metal. Thanks.
Thank you so much! I am trying to make a new burner pan for my fire feature after cutting out the old rusted pan-your video (plus industrial metal supply) was just what I needed!
Very cool. I have a project ATV that needs floorboards.
2pieces of metal, each with 2bends. I'm going to have to try this because I can't afford a machine for 4 short bends. Thanks for posting this 👍👍
Sounds like a cool project and I'm sure this process will work for what you're doing
Fabulous video! I was just told by my makerspace that they could not help me build molds for my fused glass designs. I am definitely going to try this technique. Thank you so much.
You're very welcome. I hope it works out for you.
Cool, I'm a kiln worker also. My use of SS is a bit different though. I'm making 'graphite paddles', only with SS. Using various graphite paddles, I have discovered that they always leave a pattern on the molten glass.
With flat stainless I hope to avoid that pattern, but with SS, you can only touch the molten glass1 for a second or two at the most, so it's a real 'hit and run' operation.
Great Video Doug, that's how I Learn to been steel . In the Good old Days ,in Shop Class in High school 🏫 !!!!
Right! back when you didn't have access to all the tools you did what you had to do
Very nice and clear explanation. You’re real cool. Thank you!
Greatly appreciated
@@ArtfullyRogue tell me the tools name that you use i need this tools for bending steel.... i live in Pakistan!
Excellent video. I'll use these tips as I am an amateur at DIY Vehicle Sheet metal repair.
Cool thanks for watching
Thanks so much Doug. Very interesting and informative video this week. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
I think this is a great video. I have watched many old school tradesman fix or fab up things with these old time must know "tricks of the trade". These simple, but not always easy tasks separate the men from the boys. Thanks for sharing, as this type of knowledge benefits young men out there trying to become skilled tradesmen.
excellent, great information Thanks , now I'm off to bend to a deflector plate,
Perfect! Thanks for watching!
Great job Doug, very helpful.
Thank you very much
@@ArtfullyRogue Off to make the damper (cookiesheet) cover.
I was just told that it is impossible to bend 16 guage stainless steel without a giant industrial box brake bender from a machine shop with giant brakes. Your doing dark arts and black magic!
Update: Using this method I was able to bend a 16 guage stainless steel 3" deep pan. I folded the tabs in just like a box. The dimensions were 48" x 30". Used sheet metal vicegrips and 2 copper pipes to assist bending. Welded with cheap Harbor freight Welder. Sanded with 80 grit to 3000 grit for mirror finish. Then clear coated.
Clear coat on stainless?
Great instructions. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Exactly what I was looking for a easy way to bend stainless steel at home with out a brake, gonna make a camper trailer kitchen from my old stainless steel bbq
Very cool
I did some tool boxes a way back and use that same approach , to be the first tool boxes I made it was a great satisfaction, is good to se a pro reinforcing what I was thinking was bad
straight to the point. thank you.
my pleasure
Thank you! I need to bend and fab a small piece to fix my rusty shock tower
Glad it was helpful
Beautiful !
@@SkyNet-ty1tm thanks
Fantastic video. Perfect tutorial. Thank you.
@@Nothing_to_see_here thank you very much
Great video! Thank you!
Thank you very much
Awesome tip
Glad it was helpful!
Good advice/ tip, professor Doug. Hope the bus conversion is going well.
SHARP Presentation. TY
You're very welcome
I love your idea
Thank you very much
Thanks mate, that's excellent. I've got that stuff around so I can start work building my forge. I've been looking at my sheet of 8' x 4' x 1/8" with some trepidation, but the angle grinder should subdue the monster with care. Good 'ealth, John Warner, Australia
Thank you for the video! It’s much appreciated.
I'm trying too make a small sheet metal fuse relay box for under the hood around 9x5x2" I didn't know how expensive thay are even the cheapest plastic ones. Thanks for the video .
Glad it helped
Great tutorial this method is very useful or the only option for many types of bends without needing special machines and dies
Good tips thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thank you!!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
So helpful! Thanks for sharing. I want to make a small container to fit a tight space. How do you close the gap after bending all four sides? I can’t tell. Was it welded together?
Glad it was helpful. Once closed, I weld it.
It's the ubiquitous flexible fabric bandaid that makes this real. Anyone, doing anything in their shop who isn't wearing one is a pretender. Thanks a lot for this. I have an old, inheritied, steel table Craftsman table saw that I use for bending the once a decade times I need to bend sheet metal. If I want a sharper radius I use a 2x4 and a 4 pound sledge and then the sledge by itself. Obviously I never bend for pretty. Thanks again.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks, much appreciated 👍
Thanks so much sir am from Nigeria (Eastern Part) and am a HSE officer, i never know of this.
Thanks Doug. No link to the VG bender tool. I am going to attempt to bend 0.125 aluminum diamond tread using this method. I like the radius bend, so to not crack the metal... if I can figure out how to allow for the radius. I have bent this metal before by clamping, like you did, but used a hammer and arm strength, but of course, hammer leaves dents.
Great video! Thank you very much!!!!
Thanks! Got a stainless window box for an art patron of mine to do that has to be right. Too small and finicky for big press so this will be handy.
Great video thank you. :)
Glad you liked it!
Smart dude...👌
necessity is the mother of all invention
I’m working on bending a 10’ 22-gauge zinc sheet for a countertop. I’ve already made two by using a deadblow hammer to mallet the edges down. It gives the edges a cool hammered look which gets lots of compliments, but it takes forever. Any tips for bending longer pieces of metal more efficiently?
Good stuff dude
Seeing as you mentioned it, I was considering getting the 18 inch brake from Harbor freight to bend 16 gauge SS to 90 degrees. Fools errand or doable, what do you think?
@herbfellows6435 it has a difficult time bending 16g stainless. If you can mount it to a solid surface, extend the ability to apply pressure (breaker bar etc. ) and possibly weld a stronger spine along the brake blade, it could work better.
@@ArtfullyRogue I could go as thin as maybe 22 gauge, would the answer be the same for that?
You can also hammer the bend to be flatter/less round
Great tips
Very helpful
Will heating the area to be bent red hot and then bending it affect the strength of the steel?
Any recommendations for getting a clean bend when you need it so far from the end of the material that you can't use those vise grips and C-clamps only go so far from the sides? I've been using a four pound hammer and forming the sheet to the edge of my workbench (1/2" steel tabletop). Also using 16 gauge and I think it's probably better to cut and weld for this size job. Except you should see my welds...
Good fab tip Doug, btw 16ga steel will bend easier then 16ga stainless
Great video! Thanks! I have to replace some sections of 16 gauge sheet metal on an old 1948 Missouri Pacific caboose roof. Likely around 60 feet altogether, and I am thinking in 8 foot long (max) sections since that is what I am seeing available. Can this technique be used for pieces as long as 8 feet? It's for the edges of the caboose, so the pieces will be rounded over instead of a tight bend.
Thank you for this great video and providing an alternative. Wouldn't the cut in the metal weaken the strength of the metal. I need to do a Z cut with only 2 inches in between for the channeled floor pan on my hot rod . Do you usually add a bead of welding to increase rigidity?
Great point! It all depends on the project for me. Sometimes I will had a bead along the corner to strengthen. If I'm making a simple tray of a project with less concern for strength and its more for looks, then I don't add the bead.
@@ArtfullyRogue Thank you! Makes perfect sense
Using the vise grip to make a 1/2" corner with 16 gauge steel would require bending then cutting to size. Correct?
I'm not sure I'm understanding your question. I've scored the material and bent a 1/2" width with this method. There was no need to bend something wider then cut down to size.
@@ArtfullyRogue I wondered if the vice clamps could get enough leverage on the 16 gauge steel with only 1/2" grab area. Also I thought the clamp itself might impinge on the straight edge to prevent the bend.
When i want a crisp more squared off corner i will do the same thing with the c clamps and then used a rubber mallet to bend it against the edge of the bench
I definitely use a rubber mallet when I'm bending longer pieces.
@@ArtfullyRogue I learned the hard way to not overdo the mallet hammering on aluminum bends -- the metal fatigues & thins to the point of cracking! Another tip is to go slower as rapid bending causing internal friction/heats the aluminum and does something to its temper, or so I read somewhere.
Thank you
What if you put the cut/ score on the inside of the bend? And before you bend it - you give the cut a quick hit with some spray paint to seal it off from rusting?
If you use a wider cut off of wheel bending into the cut is a little better. For this I was using a very thin cut off and bending into the cut causes the two edges to hit and prevents a full 90 degree bend.
Do you have any tips for bending stainless steel beyond 90 degrees to like 60 or 45?
I've done that using this method. Moving the top plate furtther back from the line after you've bent the 90, you can keep pushing it beyond the 90 degrees
@@ArtfullyRogue Thanks for the quick reply
Is it possible to make an open hem fold on a 16 gauge stainless steel piece that is 1.5 inch width using this method??? I was think if I clamped down a much thinner piece and I bent it up instead of down then it would work - but that’s just me thinking and I have zero experience. I’m desperate for a solution and can’t find a tool to do this that’s under $200.
Awesome, thank you Doug! Have you ever tried bending 11 GA (0.116") carbon steel or thicker with the vice clamps? Did it require scoring with the angle grinder? Thank you!
definitely required scoring on anything 11g or thicker
Should that be welded where it was scored? Seems like it would be a weak spot.
If it's a seam that will be seen or is a support then yes, I weld it. When I make trays for my water fountains, they typically get powder coated and don't hold any weight so for those, I don't usually weld.
HFT doesn't seem to sell this central machinery sheet metal brake anymore.
What if you bent it up instead of down?
it doesn't bend a full 90 degress if bent the other way
@@ArtfullyRogue Okay because I just saw somebody else do it in another video.
@@luigiprovencher It depends on the kerf of the cut off wheel. I typically use 1/16" kerf on my cut off wheels. If you use a large kerf, like 1/8" I can see how that would work
ur a g, thanks
thank you
doesnt it get less strong when you use grinder to the edge?
I believe anytime you remove material it will become less strong. However, I also feel it depends on the project and whether or not dimenshed strength is an issue. I wouldn't use it structural situations, but simple table of shelf would be fine. Keep in mind, this method is for someone that doesn't have access to anytime of brake machine.
@@ArtfullyRogue how about heating and bending with torch?
@@Kingcyborgt400 You can try that. I find that when heating stainless in warps inconsistently and not like mild steal that seems to heat in the intended area
subscribed
greatly appreciated!
It is rectangle tubing.
Bend it the best that you can using the edge of the bench. Then get in there with a block of wood and a hammer still clamped to the bench. And if you use a little art and finesse, it will look as good or better than the bend from the giant hydraulic brake. Not as fast, but also not 10,000 bucks.
Exactly,and without weakening the metal with the grinder
Rectangular tubing
Wear ppe with that angle grinder.
Bad habits die hard
4:00 You're lucky your finger has a bandaid because at least you still have the finger
Now let's do 48 inch long sheet and bend 30 degrees lol.
Why not perforate with elongated holes along the bent line instead ? It will not lead to fracture as fast as cutting along the ende as you did.
Overall a good video though.
I think drilling holes would consume more time and definitely need to be welded afterwards. If I'm understanding your suggestion correctly. Thanks for watching, its greatly appreciated.
@@ArtfullyRogue Depends on the result you want. If you laser cut or water jet cut it´s not a big deal. There are patented perforations especially for that.
If you want to bend really thick material which you can´t otherwise it can make sense as well.
If you don´t want to weaken the bend which leads to a fatigue fracture as well, scoring the metal will lead to a fatigue fracture for sure and you need to weld that as well, welding holes shut can be easier and faster, again depending on the result you need.
It´s usually used for small batch manufacturing or prototyping with precise and easy bends.
@@sierraecho884your fucking kidding right , the video wasn't intended for an audience with access to 100,000 dollar tools you twit .. anyone with that kind of shop will have access to a fucking brake or the financial means to send it out ..
Jesus Christ .... you cant be this obtuse.
how do you make a box like this? th-cam.com/video/VRUF0XmeSAs/w-d-xo.html
❤️ P"R"O"M"O"S"M!!
Great video. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
Thank you
You're very welcome