My wife bought her 513 new with babysitting money back in the 70s. Last year the Feed Shaft gear Stripped, so we took it to our local sewing machine shop. The "repair" cost $125.00 Last week the machine bound up. I opened the bottom and the Feed Drive Gear had broken. It is now obvious that for $125.00 they replaced one gear. I replaced all of the gears. Thank you for the video on grease and lube recommendations. The thing runs like a top! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this!!!
It's amazing what these shops charge for what they do. It's been a while, but last time I looked you could buy all four lower gears for about $15. I'm glad you stepped up and fixed her machine. It's a jewel and her baby I know. I'm sure she could thread and sew on it when blindfolded, hehe. I'm happy you saved it and if this video helped then that's a bonus for me too. Thanks for sharing, and take care.
I just replaced all four gears in mine for a cost of $18 plus my time. I also got a new belt for it but it wasn't needed yet, so I rubbed a little bit of atp-205 on it and sealed it in an airtight bag for storage until I need it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for showing how to properly oil the machine. I love my Stylist 513 and this just gives me peace of mind that it will perform and last a little bit longer. I am grateful to you, your knowledge, and your sharing!
Great information! I was reading a vintage magazine article about oiling your machine. It advised the ladies to lock up their sewing machine oil and hide it from the menfolk, who would no doubt waste it all on lesser objects!
"lesser objects" hahaha. I got an image of a guy sneaking it to put oil on his lawnmower wheels! Man, is he gonna get in trouble!! Thanks for the comment.
Really great videos Andy. Everyone asks for videos for specific problems but I would like you to do a video on making videos. Your lighting, camera angles and speed of presentation is the best I have seen. Just a note. I have used triflow oil for decades on plastic gears in copy machines with no ill effect. Maybe it is the type of plastic but I am following your recommendations. Thanks for what you do!
Thank you, Leonard. I still go by what the retired Singer guys told me about gears, both plastic and metal, and moving plastic parts. They told me no oil on any gear period. Only grease on metal gears and nothing on plastic gears. Remember, when I first met them it was the winter of 1980-81 and they were "snowbirds" visiting Arizona from Canada. Surely plastic composition and manufacturing has advanced since then. The website for TriFlow clear synthetic grease shows it is safe for "most" plastics. I never really looked up the oil for use on plastic. I guess I should start putting disclaimers in my videos when I give those instructions. I have had a couple of fellows tell me that the grease, and other certain greases, is OK on gears. I have also had a dozen viewers write me that they put oil/grease on a new plastic gear/gears of there sewing machine and the gear/gears "melted" "stripped" or "warped" within about an hour of use. If you take a machine like the 513 and think that Singer rated it at "not less than 900RPM" and how fast those gears and shafts and hook rotate and the heat that generates, well that may be why they told me no oil on gears or grease on plastic gears. I imagine modern copier parts can also move quickly and get warm. The only time I put oil on a shaft gear was a machine I was going to replace the gears on anyway, and it ruined the gear. QUickly. The gear looked OK before I did it, not cracked or anything, but it was probably 35 years old too. As for a video about making videos, I'm honored that you asked, but I'll not be showing a "behind the scene" look at me or my methods. I'll be happy to explain my setup though. I use a $200 CANON PowerShot ELPH 360HS point and shoot camera. www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/details/cameras/point-and-shoot-digital-cameras/slim-stylish-cameras/powershot-elph-360-hs My editing software is COREL Paintshop PRO 5 and COREL Video Studio 5. It is several years old and was given to me when a friend upgraded to much more expensive software. I mostly use free music from TH-cam here: th-cam.com/users/audiolibrarymusic?nv=1 I have used copyrighted music, but that gives the owner the right to put any kind of commercial on my video and they keep all the proceeds. I have never monetized my channel and the only money I ever get is when people donate at paypal.me/andytube. My "workbench" is a vintage $25 SInger Desk style cabinet that used to hold a model 66. It measures 22 x 48 inches and I bought a 2 x 4-foot piece of thin masonite siding and painted it black after it got dirty. I have a 50-year-old telescoping tripod I use to hold my camera. I have three 4ft LED lights from HomeDepot: www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-ft-1-Light-30-Watt-White-Integrated-Utility-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain-74104-HD/206665638 One hangs down 2 feet from the ceiling over the workbench. The other two are mounted on 1 x 2-inch wood furring strips attached on the sides of the desk. I also have a cheap clamp-on reflector light from Home Depot www.homedepot.com/p/Woods-60-Watt-6-ft-18-2-SPT-2-Incandescent-Portable-Clamp-Work-Light-with-5-5-in-Reflector-0160/204667690 with a $1 LED bulb from the dollar store for extra lighting inside the machine or at the hook area sometimes. I use a free program called Audacity I found online for editing the music for length and volume and add it to the Corel program when editing a video. I take the card out of the camera and load the contents to my desktop computer (homemade) and then use the Corel products to edit pictures or videos. It take about one minute to render each minute of video into a format for TH-cam, then the same amount of time to upload it to TH-cam. I shoot in 1080p 9 x 16 format. I think you can shoot in 720p now and upload it quicker then TH-cam with process it and upgrade to 1080p. You can also do 4K videos now if you like. I think most people watch in 720p anyway. That's it. I'd encourage you or anyone to try their hand at it. TH-cam is free to use and after you load a few videos and have no complaints then TH-cam lets you put up longer videos. I think my longest one is 2.5 hours or so. All Free. There is a learning curve, just like with any new thing you try. Just look at some of my older videos I filmed with an $89 Canon and a desk lamp, hahaha. Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck.
this is a wonderful video, I learned so much. I had my 513 since '76, the gears broke. I opened the bottom and last person who worked on the machine doused it with oil. One of the gears was broke which put me in a bind. I do believe the oil did this.
Thank you for commenting and sharing your experience for other viewers. I've had the same experience of finding broken plastic gears covered in oil/grease. Years ago I knew two retired Singer Repairmen and they are the ones who told me "no oil or grease on plastic" so I've always followed their advice. My oldest plastic gear replacement is 10 years old this year; a family friend. The machine gets used at least once-per-week and is sewing just fine never having had any lubricant on the new gears. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
I bought one of these from a thrift store and all the plastic gears are slathered in grease. Yellowed pretty bad but no breaks (yet!). Gonna try to wipe off as much as I can and hopefully save myself a repair down the road. Thank you!!
I think it's good to remove what grease is easily removed. Please don't worry about it. During an annual look, you can keep an eye on the gears. Happy sewing. That sure was a popular model in its day.
Perfect, Thanks Andy, my machine was stalling out but when using the hand wheel it would go. Oiled it up and a slight cleaning and it is running like a top!!!!
Thanks again Andy. This is what I needed. Thankfully all my gears looked to be in good shape. I should mention that my 513 varies ever so slightly in the mechanics compared to yours. Thanks!!
Hi Andy - The other day I picked up a forgotten and abused Singer 128 with the bentwood case made in 1924. This machine uses the "vibrating shuttle" type of bobbin system. Filthy dirty with spider webs and dirt all over it. Case needs total restoration. Some parts are on order. I am currently going through it and an amazed that it does not have one single gear! It is all cams, bellcranks and shafts. The find is an interesting one and I will post a video to show the find soon. This makes Singer #5. This is great! I know you never got much into the black Singers but they are every bit as exciting as the newer ones. BTW my 403A is all done and looking like it just left Singer. Your guidance is appreciated.
Congratulations on completing the 403A, and thanks for saving that machine. I'm glad you are excited about the "new" 128 model. A great piece of engineering. If you want you can download the Singer Instruction Manual for it here >> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/91_127-128-3.pdf It's funny hearing the models I work on called "newer ones", haha. I guess b/c they are 60 years old. The model 128 was made by Singer from 1912 to as late as 1962, so if you have a later one it's of the same decade as the Slant-o-matics & Rocketeers. That really says something; that Singer made the 128 for 50 YEARS RUNNING. Must be a hell of a machine! BTW, I watched your video of your 403A and that paint is incredible. Your work with the Novus #2 polish was so worth it! It looks factory fresh. Nicely Done Sir! th-cam.com/video/3ntMD8rfMLI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Andy, Wow, you are a brave guy. I watched as you actually washed and dried a Sewing Machine! Although I am sad that I no longer own my Power Tools, (like my leaf blower etc) I like your thinking. Get it really clean before greasing first... then oiling. See, I'm paying attention! I bought this really great vintage machine (1975 era) in November 2017. Singer Futura 900 and have both the owners and the maintenance manuals. Apparently it was Singers first somewhat electronic machine from what I understand. I haven't put all that many miles on it yet, but its been a year. My hubby fixed my (Rubber) Feed Dogs yesterday and everything is moving along nicely. I told him that I wanted to clean and oil before he put everything back together. See some yukky yellow greasy build up in the bottom of the machine. No where in the owners manual or the maintenance manual does it say that I am supposed to put any oil in the Bobbin Case. No where! The replacement Bobbin Case I ordered from Singer (just in case---) is plastic, although I can see that little hole it will be surrounding is metal. Do you think that this was just an Manual oversight? There are all those moving parts below the bobbin case. What do you suggest? I've been through the maintenance section of the manual 3 times. It names all the parts as A, B, C etc. Grease here, oil there... Don't know if some oil will make its way through to the bobbin case! Just an odd question if I could please... When I press "reverse stitch" does the bobbin move in the opposite direction? LOL
I have never worked on, or seen in person, a Model 900. In general, I don't put oil or grease on plastic parts. I found it interesting that the 72-page owners manual for model 900 did not contain the word "oil" that I could find. Terry Fielding has a very popular and informative site about vintage singer machines and here is a link to his Futura page: site.tandtrepair.com/Futura.html About the bobbin moving in reverse; I like to say you really only sew up and down. What makes it seem like forward and reverse is that the Feed Dog is moving the fabric under the needle one way or the other, forward or reverse. So regardless of which way the dog is moving, the needle goes up and down and the bobbin spins round and round the same way all the time.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. I can't thank you enough for replying! Right... The owners manual only says how to clean the lint from the top half of the machine, and nothing about the "inners" or oiling! Laughed when a lady in the TH-cam video went to clean the inside of a Turkey, and found a Chicken she thought was a baby! Thank you for the Futura link, I'll check it out before I go to buy my Lube stuff! Last night I was pondering all the mechanisms in the bottom of the machine, trying to think of it as a drive shaft and pressed the reverse. I saw all the breaks clamp down... I thought this was fascinating! Andy, do you think that you could add a Video on the inners of a sewing machine, just so we understand what Bone is connected to the... to do whatever? Sorry to say that as a girl, I wasn't included in the things my dad taught my brothers. Especially fishing! I resent that now.
Insides of sewing machines? Hmmm ... let me think a moment ... th-cam.com/video/Cdea7uJIMAA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/GM9z2r0J95o/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/0YFtHfIuKzI/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/aIn1rnGbmqw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/UfH2nFwcLYA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=-XrPJTtv7Sc th-cam.com/video/LxySQSFLrC0/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/fUbQjZRttm0/w-d-xo.html
Andy - what an excellent and thorough video. While I do not have the 513 model, I do have an 860. I have been worrying about getting the right grease to put on my new plastic hook gears and feed gear. They were replaced last year (the feed gear was shredding off from age!) in the first ever repair since purchase in 1981. What a relief to know I should not apply any grease to them whatsoever!. I religiously oil the parts above the needle after cleaning out dust and lint. And now greatly appreciate knowing where to oil underneath. I have a circuit board under the top cover on the machine so do not try to disturb that at all. Would I need to oil any parts by the handwheel? Thank you again and as you might have guessed I want my machine to outlast me and giving it the right maintenance will go a long way.
The oldest plastic gear replacement I did is about 17 years old now. A SInger man told me no grease. The machine owner was very leery of that but I told her I would replace the gear for free within 20 years if it broke. She sews about twice a week and the gear is still going strong. Some of my viewers disagree with this and say there are many safe greases for plastic now. I tell them OK you grease yours and I'll leave mine dry, right? I'm very sorry but I know nothing about model 860 and don't have any records for it so can't advise about oiling the HW area parts.
Thank you so much for all your help. I have a Singer Model 1425 and I can't find any videos on how to use and maintain this machine. Got any suggestions ? Thank you in advance. Greetings from California
I have hundreds of Singer manuals, but nothing for the 1425. That usually means it was not sold in the US. I found an online site I have used, and they have a copy for download. www.manualslib.com/products/Singer-1425-352975.html From the body style, I think there is most likely some version like it sold in the US but they are newer than any model I worked on and most likely made in Brazil.
Oh good, you found this video. I just answered your email and came here looking for this video to refer you to it about greasing. Nicely done, Rocio. Take Care.
thank you so much for this video! My neighbor gave me a 513 she was going to throw out. I found your video and decided to oil it. When i turned it over and took off the bottom cover it noticed right away the gears are shredded! Someone must have been oiling them! Do you know where i can find replacements and how to do it? Thanks.
You found the weak spot of model 513. The machine is 50 years old now, and whether or not they put oil on the gear it gets brittle and crumbles at that age. Plastics/nylon was different 50 years ago. You can find many people selling the gears online by Googling "singer model 513 gears". Personally, I would take a look at buying one or more of Terry's guides for replacing those gears. With 30+ years of Singer experience, he has done it all with vintage machines. You can download the manual. He may also sell the gears. He responds to email questions and here is the page for repairs to model 513: store.tandtrepair.com/st4134164185.html Good Luck, Barbara, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for responding so quickly and for the link. I will definitely do as you suggest. I have always been interested in how sewing machines work. This will give me an opportunity to learn something new.
@@barbara6509 Welcome. Not many people tackle the gear change and it's a shame b/c it is a very worthy machine. New gears can last for decades. Maybe you saw my playlist of videos for model 513? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0.html I also meant to mention you can still download a FREE copy of the 64-page Instruction Manual from the Singer Support Page: www.singer.com/search/support?title=513 Good luck and take care.
Wow! Thank you so much! I deep oiled a machine a couple months ago on some plastic. Is there a way to clean that up? I also recently purchased a 1934 Singer sewing machine 15, can you tell me if the little ounce of grease from the original sewing machine could still be used?! Or would it be too old. It's still soft in this little metal squeeze tube.
You can brush on alcohol (70 to 90%) and try to wipe it off but the best way I know is using a degreaser, like Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser. I don't know if the grease is OK. Who knows how old it is? You could try a little on one place and see if it clings and feels smooth.
so crazy - I've seen videos from different people serving this same singer design and some guys say "use the best grease you can possibly get and grease every gear" - referring to the dog and hook gears as well as the cams and rods - some guys say "only a few drops of singer oil" on the rods - some people say "don't touch it. take it to a technician" - - I've been using high heat red grease on the gears and mineral oil on the rods.....
There are many opinions for sure. My methods are based on info from a couple of retired Singer repairmen. They came from Canada to winter in Arizona. I'd have breakfast with them a couple three times per month. They asked me about Arizona and telecommunications and I'd ask them about repairing and servicing vintage Singer machines. One thing they said was the two worst things about lubrication were too little or too much. They said Singer Sewing Machine Oil was fine, basically refined mineral oil. They also said TriFlow with PTFE was even better as it did not dry out as quickly and had a little more wear protection. The other stuff about no grease on gears, no oil or grease on plastic was their training by the Singer Factory Classes they took. Good enough for guys who did it for over 30 years and good enough for me. There are many new products since they were working and it's up to the owner to choose, IMO. Your method sounds good. You should make a video too, and show us how. Thanks for watching my channel.
I recently became the owner of an older used sewing machine. I read the manual to apply oil, while looking inside the machine I see paste that looks the same color as wood glue... one of the gears is ground to almost nothing. In your opinion, would that a result of the grease/oil gathering dust, or rust, or using the wrong type of grease/oil? I assume I should remove the wood colored gunk and apply fresh oil/grease, and replace the gear.
Welcome to Andy Tube, Brian. Congratulations on acquiring a vintage machine. For a few years, I knew a couple of retired SInger repairmen and they told me no oil or grease on plastic gears. Nothing on plastic gears with two exceptions. 1. The slant needle machines and later models had a Textolite gear (type of plastic) on the handwheel that mated with a pinion gear (metal) on the motor shaft. SInger clearly showed to grease that gear combination. 2. Some Singer machines have a plastic gear on the bottom of the cam stack that mates with a metal pinion/worm gear on the main arm shaft (makes the cam stack rotate) and they used grease on that spot also, They later used a brown, waxy type of grease to lubricate that spot. It was supposed to last longer b/c it had more wax in it. Grease is basically oil with some kind of wax in it, but most oil is made of hydrocarbons, as are the plastic gears. That type of hydrocarbon-based oil/grease does break down the plastic gears causing them to get discolored, brittle, and then lose teeth, crack and break. I've never used any lubricant on a plastic gear-to-plastic gear combo. Newer types of grease, as in synthetic formula, is safe for most plastics and I know folks who feel they just have to grease a gear have used synthetic grease on plastic gears. To each their own, right? BTW, if the gear feels very stiff I'd replace it for sure. I don't know the brand or model of your machine, but if you know how to replace the gear please do. Thanks for watching my channel, and keeping an old machine in service.
Andy, I just purchased a vintage Singer sewing machine - 306K and it came with a foot speed controller. The porcelain resister case gets very hot after running the sewing machine for a few minutes. Is that normal? Also, when I stop running the machine, I can hear electrical cackling coming from the end of the resister where the brass plate meets the two carbon stacks. I cleaned the carbon deposits off the brass plate and the two ends of the carbon stacks. But I did not dismantle the carbon stacks. Could the heating be caused by broken disks? Are there any sources for the carbon stacks if I need to buy them? Thanks a lot. I really enjoy your videos. As I said, I have this 306K, and I also have a 99K and a 201-3. Love these machines.
All carbon stack controller get hot to touch, even when brand new. If they are out of adjustment or have bad and/or dirty carbon discs then it gets much hotter much sooner. If out of adjustment, and left plugged into the wall some electricity can flow into the carbons. With electricity coming in and none going out the carbons get hot. That is why Singer always advised unplugging the controller when not in use. When sewing at slow speeds the carbons also get hot. There is one seller of discs that come in a tube for the clamshell style controller. I have taken the carbons from it and used them in the button style controller with good results, but I've had a couple of viewers who had bad results doing this. You must have seen my series of restoring the foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html Part 6 of the series is about adjusting the controller: th-cam.com/video/Vz1iXW_Ghcs/w-d-xo.html I have found that controllers that give uneven speed and get extra hot usually have a lot of bad carbons. If you don't think you can just clean and adjust the controller, then think about buying a new electronic one. They NEVER get hot or even very warm, and you can control the speed very, very well. They only cost a couple of dollars more than the replacement carbons, and you can reuse your same cords. It is not hard to wire the new controller. Here are a couple of places I buy them and you can shop around too. shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm?categoryId=-1 www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Electric-Foot-Conrol-Pedal-EZ-168-Controller-Only-For-Sewing-Machine/162275504624?hash=item25c85fb1f0:g:fTQAAOSweWVXdUOX:rk:12:pf:0 Sew Classic (Jenny) made a video on how to install the wires on the new pedal: th-cam.com/video/QNPti0gdm5U/w-d-xo.html Good Luck.
Hi Andy! I've replaced the gears and lubricated everything on my 513. I've seen a few people online suggesting that the motor should be oiled along with everything else? Is this true and how would you go this with what product?
Congratulations on your gear replacement. Usually the goal it to keep oil away from a sewing machine motor. The shaft of the motor does go through or into bearings, and currently I feel if you wanted to wipe the inside of the bearing with a Q-tip with oil that's about it for the type of motor in your 513. It is an SN(K) OPEN type motor. It's a lot of work to take the motor that much apart. If you felt the bearings were dry you could put one small drop of sewing machine oil into the end of the bearing. Many of these motors have an "oil-less" bearing made of bronze with microscopic spaces that hold oil when the bearing is cool and bring it to the surface when the bearing warms up with use, Here is a videos about a bronze bearing: th-cam.com/video/CG3qlX5mMnQ/w-d-xo.html One of my viewers with extensive knowledge of these bearing is who educated us about just wiping the inside of the bearing with an oily Q-tip. If you want to get farther inside an "open" style motor here is a video about cleaning a wet motor: th-cam.com/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/w-d-xo.html I think one of the best things you can do for the motor is to reseat the motor brushes and clean the commutator as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/w-d-xo.html If you did this to the motor at the time you have it out you could put the drop of oil on the bearings if you felt it was needed. Thanks for watching my channel and for saving the 513 from the landfill.
I use Kroil on my firearms to great success. It is rather thin oil, but it has great properties for close fitting parts. I get so confused with lubrication on sewing machines because there are several different schools of thought. AND, many are trying to sell a product.
I get it. Many sewing machine service people and owners have been using the Tri-flow oil for a while now. The PTFE (micronized Teflon) is supposed to reduce friction and heat. The 3 OSMG's I talked to a few years back said the Tr_flow oil was fine but not necessary in their opinion. The oil that is made for sewing machines is light, white mineral oil and they liked it best. It is less expensive, readily available and lubricates well. Singer or Lilly brands are examples they used. Kroil is a penetrating oil that they felt is good for releasing stuck, stiff and rusty parts, but they did not feel it was the best choice for lubrication. Back in the day when they got a frozen, dirty machine in the shop ley would literally soak the machine (electric stuff removed), sometimes overnight in Varisol or kerosene. In the morning they would wipe that off and "oil the heck out of it" the machine with Singer oil then wipe that off and run the machine for 5 minutes then wipe off any residue. When I see a 75-year-old Singer that cleans up and runs great and was not full of gummy stuff from 3-in-one or motor oil I think the Singer oil was fine to use. I tend to use Tri-flow when refurbishing a machine but have plenty of Singer Sewing Machine oil on hand at all times. The singer is all my wife will let me use on her machines when I do the annual tune-ups. According to her "pure, no additives, clean and no smell". SHe has only used that for 50+ years and her machines are in great shape. Just saying.
@@andytubesewing1953 Sir, I never meant to imply anything but the many choices of sewing machine oil/grease. I have only been dealing with older machines that have not seen any use in the distant past. The Kroil has been the product that limbers all these old machines up (for me). I will be ordering some of the PTFE. Thanks again for your sharing of knowledge.
Abe Lincoln, and I did not see you were implying other than those many choices. I get between 400 & 500 emails and comments per month and was trying to speak to viewers who read comments and not to you alone. Using Kroil to free up old stiff machines is a great idea. Many have told me they do the same. In some of my videos, I use wd-40 for the same purpose. I feel the Kroil is probably a more modern product and I would not hesitate to use it as a penetrant to get into the gunked up and frozen bushing, bearing and stuck metal parts that do not want to move. If you have seen any of my videos where I wash the whole machine with Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser you see me wash out the wd-40, old oil, grease, and well ... crud, then dry and oil up the machine with Tri-Flow. I enjoy your comments and inputs and my whole goal with the channel is to encourage people to keep these vintage Singers in service and working. I thank you for doing that with the machines you work on. Take Care.
Watch again starting @ 2:22 in the video. I show and demonstrate where to put the grease. That is the only place on the machine I put grease. I never put grease on plastic drive gears, like the hook or vertical shaft gears. Some folks disagree with that and they do put grease on plastic gears. I do not. I do put grease on metal gears as shown in the video, and on slant needle machines like the 301a, 401a, 403a, 404, 500, 503a, etc. No oil on any gear. Oil is not dense enough to use as lubrication on gears, IMO.
Thank you I watched got it so much info I appreciate. Any idea where I can get the feet for bottom of machine ( so you don't damage your table) my Stylist 533 is down to screws no pads
.@@rosamejia5956 A trusted seller and good price www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-533-parts/products/singer-replacement-bed-cushion many other sellers online and eBay I'm sure.
Iv found that my old sewing machine from 1938 actually doesn't run good on a normal sewing machine oil oil it seems to like a thicker oil but that's probably because it's been used for 4 generations and has been rebuilt many times 😂
Thanks Andy! I didn't have any trouble keeping up with you! You saved me time and money and I needed my machine, not in 3 weeks!
I appreciate your nice comment 🙏 Yes, better to spend that money on your sewing project. 3 weeks? Wow!
My wife bought her 513 new with babysitting money back in the 70s.
Last year the Feed Shaft gear Stripped, so we took it to our local sewing machine shop.
The "repair" cost $125.00
Last week the machine bound up. I opened the bottom and the Feed Drive Gear had broken.
It is now obvious that for $125.00 they replaced one gear.
I replaced all of the gears.
Thank you for the video on grease and lube recommendations.
The thing runs like a top!
Thank you so much for taking the time to share this!!!
It's amazing what these shops charge for what they do. It's been a while, but last time I looked you could buy all four lower gears for about $15. I'm glad you stepped up and fixed her machine. It's a jewel and her baby I know. I'm sure she could thread and sew on it when blindfolded, hehe. I'm happy you saved it and if this video helped then that's a bonus for me too. Thanks for sharing, and take care.
I just replaced all four gears in mine for a cost of $18 plus my time. I also got a new belt for it but it wasn't needed yet, so I rubbed a little bit of atp-205 on it and sealed it in an airtight bag for storage until I need it.
THANK YOU SO MUCH for showing how to properly oil the machine. I love my Stylist 513 and this just gives me peace of mind that it will perform and last a little bit longer. I am grateful to you, your knowledge, and your sharing!
I'm glad you found the video, Chad. Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing
I just inherited my mothers 513 (what I learned to sew on years ago)... Thank you so much for all the info you're posting... I appreciate it.
Welcome! Thanks for keeping your 513 in service. A family-owned machine; so very nice.
Great information! I was reading a vintage magazine article about oiling your machine. It advised the ladies to lock up their sewing machine oil and hide it from the menfolk, who would no doubt waste it all on lesser objects!
"lesser objects" hahaha. I got an image of a guy sneaking it to put oil on his lawnmower wheels! Man, is he gonna get in trouble!! Thanks for the comment.
Really great videos Andy. Everyone asks for videos for specific problems but I would like you to do a video on making videos. Your lighting, camera angles and speed of presentation is the best I have seen. Just a note. I have used triflow oil for decades on plastic gears in copy machines with no ill effect. Maybe it is the type of plastic but I am following your recommendations. Thanks for what you do!
Thank you, Leonard. I still go by what the retired Singer guys told me about gears, both plastic and metal, and moving plastic parts.
They told me no oil on any gear period. Only grease on metal gears and nothing on plastic gears. Remember, when I first met them it was the winter of 1980-81 and they were "snowbirds" visiting Arizona from Canada. Surely plastic composition and manufacturing has advanced since then.
The website for TriFlow clear synthetic grease shows it is safe for "most" plastics. I never really looked up the oil for use on plastic. I guess I should start putting disclaimers in my videos when I give those instructions. I have had a couple of fellows tell me that the grease, and other certain greases, is OK on gears. I have also had a dozen viewers write me that they put oil/grease on a new plastic gear/gears of there sewing machine and the gear/gears "melted" "stripped" or "warped" within about an hour of use. If you take a machine like the 513 and think that Singer rated it at "not less than 900RPM" and how fast those gears and shafts and hook rotate and the heat that generates, well that may be why they told me no oil on gears or grease on plastic gears. I imagine modern copier parts can also move quickly and get warm. The only time I put oil on a shaft gear was a machine I was going to replace the gears on anyway, and it ruined the gear. QUickly. The gear looked OK before I did it, not cracked or anything, but it was probably 35 years old too.
As for a video about making videos, I'm honored that you asked, but I'll not be showing a "behind the scene" look at me or my methods. I'll be happy to explain my setup though. I use a $200 CANON PowerShot ELPH 360HS point and shoot camera. www.usa.canon.com/internet/portal/us/home/products/details/cameras/point-and-shoot-digital-cameras/slim-stylish-cameras/powershot-elph-360-hs
My editing software is COREL Paintshop PRO 5 and COREL Video Studio 5. It is several years old and was given to me when a friend upgraded to much more expensive software.
I mostly use free music from TH-cam here: th-cam.com/users/audiolibrarymusic?nv=1
I have used copyrighted music, but that gives the owner the right to put any kind of commercial on my video and they keep all the proceeds. I have never monetized my channel and the only money I ever get is when people donate at paypal.me/andytube.
My "workbench" is a vintage $25 SInger Desk style cabinet that used to hold a model 66. It measures 22 x 48 inches and I bought a 2 x 4-foot piece of thin masonite siding and painted it black after it got dirty.
I have a 50-year-old telescoping tripod I use to hold my camera.
I have three 4ft LED lights from HomeDepot: www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-4-ft-1-Light-30-Watt-White-Integrated-Utility-LED-Shop-Light-with-Pull-Chain-74104-HD/206665638 One hangs down 2 feet from the ceiling over the workbench. The other two are mounted on 1 x 2-inch wood furring strips attached on the sides of the desk. I also have a cheap clamp-on reflector light from Home Depot www.homedepot.com/p/Woods-60-Watt-6-ft-18-2-SPT-2-Incandescent-Portable-Clamp-Work-Light-with-5-5-in-Reflector-0160/204667690 with a $1 LED bulb from the dollar store for extra lighting inside the machine or at the hook area sometimes.
I use a free program called Audacity I found online for editing the music for length and volume and add it to the Corel program when editing a video. I take the card out of the camera and load the contents to my desktop computer (homemade) and then use the Corel products to edit pictures or videos. It take about one minute to render each minute of video into a format for TH-cam, then the same amount of time to upload it to TH-cam. I shoot in 1080p 9 x 16 format. I think you can shoot in 720p now and upload it quicker then TH-cam with process it and upgrade to 1080p. You can also do 4K videos now if you like. I think most people watch in 720p anyway.
That's it. I'd encourage you or anyone to try their hand at it. TH-cam is free to use and after you load a few videos and have no complaints then TH-cam lets you put up longer videos. I think my longest one is 2.5 hours or so. All Free. There is a learning curve, just like with any new thing you try. Just look at some of my older videos I filmed with an $89 Canon and a desk lamp, hahaha.
Thanks for watching my channel. Good Luck.
this is a wonderful video, I learned so much. I had my 513 since '76, the gears broke. I opened the bottom and last person who worked on the machine doused it with oil. One of the gears was broke which put me in a bind. I do believe the oil did this.
Thank you for commenting and sharing your experience for other viewers. I've had the same experience of finding broken plastic gears covered in oil/grease. Years ago I knew two retired Singer Repairmen and they are the ones who told me "no oil or grease on plastic" so I've always followed their advice. My oldest plastic gear replacement is 10 years old this year; a family friend. The machine gets used at least once-per-week and is sewing just fine never having had any lubricant on the new gears. Thanks for watching my channel, and take care.
I bought one of these from a thrift store and all the plastic gears are slathered in grease. Yellowed pretty bad but no breaks (yet!). Gonna try to wipe off as much as I can and hopefully save myself a repair down the road. Thank you!!
I think it's good to remove what grease is easily removed. Please don't worry about it. During an annual look, you can keep an eye on the gears. Happy sewing. That sure was a popular model in its day.
So glad to find your channel. Very appreciate!
Welcome! Free manual is here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=513
Perfect, Thanks Andy, my machine was stalling out but when using the hand wheel it would go. Oiled it up and a slight cleaning and it is running like a top!!!!
I sure love happy endings. Nicely done, Paul, and thanks for a great comment. Happy sewing and I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thanks again Andy. This is what I needed. Thankfully all my gears looked to be in good shape. I should mention that my 513 varies ever so slightly in the mechanics compared to yours. Thanks!!
I'm glad you found it useful
Hi Andy - The other day I picked up a forgotten and abused Singer 128 with the bentwood case made in 1924. This machine uses the "vibrating shuttle" type of bobbin system. Filthy dirty with spider webs and dirt all over it. Case needs total restoration. Some parts are on order. I am currently going through it and an amazed that it does not have one single gear! It is all cams, bellcranks and shafts. The find is an interesting one and I will post a video to show the find soon. This makes Singer #5. This is great! I know you never got much into the black Singers but they are every bit as exciting as the newer ones. BTW my 403A is all done and looking like it just left Singer. Your guidance is appreciated.
Congratulations on completing the 403A, and thanks for saving that machine. I'm glad you are excited about the "new" 128 model. A great piece of engineering. If you want you can download the Singer Instruction Manual for it here >> www.singer.com/sites/default/files/product_manual/91_127-128-3.pdf
It's funny hearing the models I work on called "newer ones", haha. I guess b/c they are 60 years old. The model 128 was made by Singer from 1912 to as late as 1962, so if you have a later one it's of the same decade as the Slant-o-matics & Rocketeers. That really says something; that Singer made the 128 for 50 YEARS RUNNING. Must be a hell of a machine!
BTW, I watched your video of your 403A and that paint is incredible. Your work with the Novus #2 polish was so worth it! It looks factory fresh. Nicely Done Sir!
th-cam.com/video/3ntMD8rfMLI/w-d-xo.html
Hi Andy, Wow, you are a brave guy. I watched as you actually washed and dried a Sewing Machine!
Although I am sad that I no longer own my Power Tools, (like my leaf blower etc) I like your thinking.
Get it really clean before greasing first... then oiling. See, I'm paying attention!
I bought this really great vintage machine (1975 era) in November 2017. Singer Futura 900 and have both the owners
and the maintenance manuals. Apparently it was Singers first somewhat electronic machine from what I understand.
I haven't put all that many miles on it yet, but its been a year. My hubby fixed my (Rubber) Feed Dogs yesterday and everything is moving along nicely. I told him that I wanted to clean and oil before he put everything back together. See some yukky yellow greasy build up in the bottom of the machine.
No where in the owners manual or the maintenance manual does it say that I am supposed to
put any oil in the Bobbin Case. No where! The replacement Bobbin Case I ordered from Singer (just in case---)
is plastic, although I can see that little hole it will be surrounding is metal.
Do you think that this was just an Manual oversight? There are all those moving parts below the bobbin case.
What do you suggest?
I've been through the maintenance section of the manual 3 times. It names all the parts as
A, B, C etc. Grease here, oil there... Don't know if some oil will make its way through to the bobbin case!
Just an odd question if I could please... When I press "reverse stitch" does the bobbin move
in the opposite direction? LOL
I have never worked on, or seen in person, a Model 900. In general, I don't put oil or grease on plastic parts. I found it interesting that the 72-page owners manual for model 900 did not contain the word "oil" that I could find. Terry Fielding has a very popular and informative site about vintage singer machines and here is a link to his Futura page: site.tandtrepair.com/Futura.html
About the bobbin moving in reverse; I like to say you really only sew up and down. What makes it seem like forward and reverse is that the Feed Dog is moving the fabric under the needle one way or the other, forward or reverse. So regardless of which way the dog is moving, the needle goes up and down and the bobbin spins round and round the same way all the time.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy. I can't thank you enough for replying! Right... The owners manual only says
how to clean the lint from the top half of the machine, and nothing about the "inners" or oiling!
Laughed when a lady in the TH-cam video went to clean the inside of a Turkey, and found a Chicken
she thought was a baby!
Thank you for the Futura link, I'll check it out before I go to buy my Lube stuff!
Last night I was pondering all the mechanisms in the bottom of the machine, trying to
think of it as a drive shaft and pressed the reverse. I saw all the breaks clamp down...
I thought this was fascinating!
Andy, do you think that you could add a Video on the inners of a sewing machine, just so
we understand what Bone is connected to the... to do whatever?
Sorry to say that as a girl, I wasn't included in the things my dad taught my brothers.
Especially fishing! I resent that now.
Insides of sewing machines? Hmmm ... let me think a moment ...
th-cam.com/video/Cdea7uJIMAA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/GM9z2r0J95o/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/0YFtHfIuKzI/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/aIn1rnGbmqw/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/UfH2nFwcLYA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=-XrPJTtv7Sc
th-cam.com/video/LxySQSFLrC0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/fUbQjZRttm0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks you. I like so much alls yours videos.
That's very nice of you say, Vilmary. Thank you for watching my channel 😊
Andy - what an excellent and thorough video. While I do not have the 513 model, I do have an 860. I have been worrying about getting the right grease to put on my new plastic hook gears and feed gear. They were replaced last year (the feed gear was shredding off from age!) in the first ever repair since purchase in 1981. What a relief to know I should not apply any grease to them whatsoever!. I religiously oil the parts above the needle after cleaning out dust and lint. And now greatly appreciate knowing where to oil underneath. I have a circuit board under the top cover on the machine so do not try to disturb that at all. Would I need to oil any parts by the handwheel? Thank you again and as you might have guessed I want my machine to outlast me and giving it the right maintenance will go a long way.
The oldest plastic gear replacement I did is about 17 years old now. A SInger man told me no grease. The machine owner was very leery of that but I told her I would replace the gear for free within 20 years if it broke. She sews about twice a week and the gear is still going strong. Some of my viewers disagree with this and say there are many safe greases for plastic now. I tell them OK you grease yours and I'll leave mine dry, right? I'm very sorry but I know nothing about model 860 and don't have any records for it so can't advise about oiling the HW area parts.
Thank you so much for all your help. I have a Singer Model 1425 and I can't find any videos on how to use and maintain this machine. Got any suggestions ? Thank you in advance. Greetings from California
I have hundreds of Singer manuals, but nothing for the 1425. That usually means it was not sold in the US. I found an online site I have used, and they have a copy for download. www.manualslib.com/products/Singer-1425-352975.html
From the body style, I think there is most likely some version like it sold in the US but they are newer than any model I worked on and most likely made in Brazil.
Thank you thank you! I learn a lot! Like always excellent video.
Oh good, you found this video. I just answered your email and came here looking for this video to refer you to it about greasing.
Nicely done, Rocio. Take Care.
thank you so much for this video! My neighbor gave me a 513 she was going to throw out. I found your video and decided to oil it. When i turned it over and took off the bottom cover it noticed right away the gears are shredded! Someone must have been oiling them! Do you know where i can find replacements and how to do it? Thanks.
You found the weak spot of model 513. The machine is 50 years old now, and whether or not they put oil on the gear it gets brittle and crumbles at that age. Plastics/nylon was different 50 years ago. You can find many people selling the gears online by Googling "singer model 513 gears". Personally, I would take a look at buying one or more of Terry's guides for replacing those gears. With 30+ years of Singer experience, he has done it all with vintage machines. You can download the manual. He may also sell the gears. He responds to email questions and here is the page for repairs to model 513: store.tandtrepair.com/st4134164185.html
Good Luck, Barbara, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for responding so quickly and for the link. I will definitely do as you suggest. I have always been interested in how sewing machines work. This will give me an opportunity to learn something new.
@@barbara6509 Welcome. Not many people tackle the gear change and it's a shame b/c it is a very worthy machine. New gears can last for decades. Maybe you saw my playlist of videos for model 513? th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKLELksv_-MWE7tiAuzOgQj0.html I also meant to mention you can still download a FREE copy of the 64-page Instruction Manual from the Singer Support Page: www.singer.com/search/support?title=513 Good luck and take care.
Wow! Thank you so much! I deep oiled a machine a couple months ago on some plastic. Is there a way to clean that up?
I also recently purchased a 1934 Singer sewing machine 15, can you tell me if the little ounce of grease from the original sewing machine could still be used?! Or would it be too old. It's still soft in this little metal squeeze tube.
You can brush on alcohol (70 to 90%) and try to wipe it off but the best way I know is using a degreaser, like Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser. I don't know if the grease is OK. Who knows how old it is? You could try a little on one place and see if it clings and feels smooth.
@@andytubesewing1953Thank you "sew" much for taking the time to answer. I really appreciate your thoughts!
Sure, and good luck with your machine.
Exactly the info I needed!! Thank you thank you thank you!!
Very welcome, Emily. I'm glad you found the video. Thanks for maintaining your machine.✨
Thanks for your vedios .. Very helpful . and what a great machine to work with !!
you're welcome and I'm glad you liked it stop by my channel when you can take care
so crazy - I've seen videos from different people serving this same singer design and some guys say "use the best grease you can possibly get and grease every gear" - referring to the dog and hook gears as well as the cams and rods - some guys say "only a few drops of singer oil" on the rods - some people say "don't touch it. take it to a technician" - -
I've been using high heat red grease on the gears and mineral oil on the rods.....
There are many opinions for sure. My methods are based on info from a couple of retired Singer repairmen. They came from Canada to winter in Arizona. I'd have breakfast with them a couple three times per month. They asked me about Arizona and telecommunications and I'd ask them about repairing and servicing vintage Singer machines. One thing they said was the two worst things about lubrication were too little or too much. They said Singer Sewing Machine Oil was fine, basically refined mineral oil. They also said TriFlow with PTFE was even better as it did not dry out as quickly and had a little more wear protection. The other stuff about no grease on gears, no oil or grease on plastic was their training by the Singer Factory Classes they took. Good enough for guys who did it for over 30 years and good enough for me. There are many new products since they were working and it's up to the owner to choose, IMO. Your method sounds good. You should make a video too, and show us how. Thanks for watching my channel.
I recently became the owner of an older used sewing machine. I read the manual to apply oil, while looking inside the machine I see paste that looks the same color as wood glue... one of the gears is ground to almost nothing. In your opinion, would that a result of the grease/oil gathering dust, or rust, or using the wrong type of grease/oil? I assume I should remove the wood colored gunk and apply fresh oil/grease, and replace the gear.
Welcome to Andy Tube, Brian. Congratulations on acquiring a vintage machine. For a few years, I knew a couple of retired SInger repairmen and they told me no oil or grease on plastic gears. Nothing on plastic gears with two exceptions. 1. The slant needle machines and later models had a Textolite gear (type of plastic) on the handwheel that mated with a pinion gear (metal) on the motor shaft. SInger clearly showed to grease that gear combination. 2. Some Singer machines have a plastic gear on the bottom of the cam stack that mates with a metal pinion/worm gear on the main arm shaft (makes the cam stack rotate) and they used grease on that spot also, They later used a brown, waxy type of grease to lubricate that spot. It was supposed to last longer b/c it had more wax in it. Grease is basically oil with some kind of wax in it, but most oil is made of hydrocarbons, as are the plastic gears. That type of hydrocarbon-based oil/grease does break down the plastic gears causing them to get discolored, brittle, and then lose teeth, crack and break. I've never used any lubricant on a plastic gear-to-plastic gear combo. Newer types of grease, as in synthetic formula, is safe for most plastics and I know folks who feel they just have to grease a gear have used synthetic grease on plastic gears. To each their own, right? BTW, if the gear feels very stiff I'd replace it for sure. I don't know the brand or model of your machine, but if you know how to replace the gear please do. Thanks for watching my channel, and keeping an old machine in service.
Excellent video . Thanks
Welcome, and thanks for servicing your machine and keeping it in service.
Andy, I just purchased a vintage Singer sewing machine - 306K and it came with a foot speed controller. The porcelain resister case gets very hot after running the sewing machine for a few minutes. Is that normal? Also, when I stop running the machine, I can hear electrical cackling coming from the end of the resister where the brass plate meets the two carbon stacks. I cleaned the carbon deposits off the brass plate and the two ends of the carbon stacks. But I did not dismantle the carbon stacks. Could the heating be caused by broken disks? Are there any sources for the carbon stacks if I need to buy them? Thanks a lot. I really enjoy your videos. As I said, I have this 306K, and I also have a 99K and a 201-3. Love these machines.
All carbon stack controller get hot to touch, even when brand new. If they are out of adjustment or have bad and/or dirty carbon discs then it gets much hotter much sooner. If out of adjustment, and left plugged into the wall some electricity can flow into the carbons. With electricity coming in and none going out the carbons get hot. That is why Singer always advised unplugging the controller when not in use. When sewing at slow speeds the carbons also get hot. There is one seller of discs that come in a tube for the clamshell style controller. I have taken the carbons from it and used them in the button style controller with good results, but I've had a couple of viewers who had bad results doing this.
You must have seen my series of restoring the foot pedal: th-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html
Part 6 of the series is about adjusting the controller: th-cam.com/video/Vz1iXW_Ghcs/w-d-xo.html
I have found that controllers that give uneven speed and get extra hot usually have a lot of bad carbons.
If you don't think you can just clean and adjust the controller, then think about buying a new electronic one.
They NEVER get hot or even very warm, and you can control the speed very, very well. They only cost a couple of dollars more than the replacement carbons, and you can reuse your same cords. It is not hard to wire the new controller.
Here are a couple of places I buy them and you can shop around too.
shop.sew-classic.com/Foot-Control-Electronic-2-Wire-Type-UL-12-amp-SCE168FC.htm?categoryId=-1
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Electric-Foot-Conrol-Pedal-EZ-168-Controller-Only-For-Sewing-Machine/162275504624?hash=item25c85fb1f0:g:fTQAAOSweWVXdUOX:rk:12:pf:0
Sew Classic (Jenny) made a video on how to install the wires on the new pedal: th-cam.com/video/QNPti0gdm5U/w-d-xo.html
Good Luck.
Hi Andy!
I've replaced the gears and lubricated everything on my 513. I've seen a few people online suggesting that the motor should be oiled along with everything else? Is this true and how would you go this with what product?
Congratulations on your gear replacement. Usually the goal it to keep oil away from a sewing machine motor. The shaft of the motor does go through or into bearings, and currently I feel if you wanted to wipe the inside of the bearing with a Q-tip with oil that's about it for the type of motor in your 513. It is an SN(K) OPEN type motor. It's a lot of work to take the motor that much apart. If you felt the bearings were dry you could put one small drop of sewing machine oil into the end of the bearing. Many of these motors have an "oil-less" bearing made of bronze with microscopic spaces that hold oil when the bearing is cool and bring it to the surface when the bearing warms up with use, Here is a videos about a bronze bearing: th-cam.com/video/CG3qlX5mMnQ/w-d-xo.html One of my viewers with extensive knowledge of these bearing is who educated us about just wiping the inside of the bearing with an oily Q-tip. If you want to get farther inside an "open" style motor here is a video about cleaning a wet motor: th-cam.com/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/w-d-xo.html I think one of the best things you can do for the motor is to reseat the motor brushes and clean the commutator as shown in this video: th-cam.com/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/w-d-xo.html If you did this to the motor at the time you have it out you could put the drop of oil on the bearings if you felt it was needed. Thanks for watching my channel and for saving the 513 from the landfill.
I use Kroil on my firearms to great success. It is rather thin oil, but it has great properties for close fitting parts. I get so confused with lubrication on sewing machines because there are several different schools of thought. AND, many are trying to sell a product.
I get it. Many sewing machine service people and owners have been using the Tri-flow oil for a while now. The PTFE (micronized Teflon) is supposed to reduce friction and heat.
The 3 OSMG's I talked to a few years back said the Tr_flow oil was fine but not necessary in their opinion. The oil that is made for sewing machines is light, white mineral oil and they liked it best. It is less expensive, readily available and lubricates well. Singer or Lilly brands are examples they used. Kroil is a penetrating oil that they felt is good for releasing stuck, stiff and rusty parts, but they did not feel it was the best choice for lubrication. Back in the day when they got a frozen, dirty machine in the shop ley would literally soak the machine (electric stuff removed), sometimes overnight in Varisol or kerosene. In the morning they would wipe that off and "oil the heck out of it" the machine with Singer oil then wipe that off and run the machine for 5 minutes then wipe off any residue. When I see a 75-year-old Singer that cleans up and runs great and was not full of gummy stuff from 3-in-one or motor oil I think the Singer oil was fine to use. I tend to use Tri-flow when refurbishing a machine but have plenty of Singer Sewing Machine oil on hand at all times. The singer is all my wife will let me use on her machines when I do the annual tune-ups. According to her "pure, no additives, clean and no smell". SHe has only used that for 50+ years and her machines are in great shape. Just saying.
@@andytubesewing1953 Sir, I never meant to imply anything but the many choices of sewing machine oil/grease. I have only been dealing with older machines that have not seen any use in the distant past. The Kroil has been the product that limbers all these old machines up (for me). I will be ordering some of the PTFE. Thanks again for your sharing of knowledge.
Abe Lincoln, and I did not see you were implying other than those many choices. I get between 400 & 500 emails and comments per month and was trying to speak to viewers who read comments and not to you alone. Using Kroil to free up old stiff machines is a great idea. Many have told me they do the same. In some of my videos, I use wd-40 for the same purpose. I feel the Kroil is probably a more modern product and I would not hesitate to use it as a penetrant to get into the gunked up and frozen bushing, bearing and stuck metal parts that do not want to move.
If you have seen any of my videos where I wash the whole machine with Krud Kutter Cleaner & Degreaser you see me wash out the wd-40, old oil, grease, and well ... crud, then dry and oil up the machine with Tri-Flow. I enjoy your comments and inputs and my whole goal with the channel is to encourage people to keep these vintage Singers in service and working. I thank you for doing that with the machines you work on. Take Care.
So I'm confused you said I believe no grease on gears What do u use synthetic grease on
Watch again starting @ 2:22 in the video. I show and demonstrate where to put the grease. That is the only place on the machine I put grease. I never put grease on plastic drive gears, like the hook or vertical shaft gears. Some folks disagree with that and they do put grease on plastic gears. I do not. I do put grease on metal gears as shown in the video, and on slant needle machines like the 301a, 401a, 403a, 404, 500, 503a, etc. No oil on any gear. Oil is not dense enough to use as lubrication on gears, IMO.
Thank you I watched got it so much info I appreciate. Any idea where I can get the feet for bottom of machine ( so you don't damage your table) my Stylist 533 is down to screws no pads
.@@rosamejia5956 A trusted seller and good price www.vintagesingerparts.com/collections/singer-model-533-parts/products/singer-replacement-bed-cushion many other sellers online and eBay I'm sure.
Iv found that my old sewing machine from 1938 actually doesn't run good on a normal sewing machine oil oil it seems to like a thicker oil but that's probably because it's been used for 4 generations and has been rebuilt many times 😂
Whatever it takes to keep sewing for you. If a heavier weight oil kept my machine working I do that in a heartbeat. Thanks for watching.