Thanks for the video. Just adjusted my spring and moved the motor back to the right and is currently working while I wait on the new one. 20 bucks is wayyyy better than a new washer or technician!!
I found the spin enable switch to be defective (never makes contact when forced "active"). I opened it up, cleaned the contacting surfaces, reassembled and it works fine now. You have to cut the plastic rivets holding the switch housing together, then fuse them back in place after reassembly, so this is a one-time fix.
Hello, yes, I would recommend having a replacement switch available because it is hard to say how long the cleaning will last. Thank you for the tip to help others get their washer back up and running in a pinch. You can call 1 800 369 0999 to order appliance parts. Thank you! Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
neptunewaxmotorcom Yes, I purchased a new switch from a parts supplier. I paid CD$38.00 and realized afterward that my local surplus electronics supplier has them priced at CD$3.50. They are all mostly the ever ubiquitous micro-switch.
I believe I have a bad wax motor, and it is the new one. I have power going to the motor wires, and the control board, r11 and q6 are both good, but the motor doesn't heat and expand. I have a replacement motor on order so I don't know for sure yet that it is the problem, but all signs point to it as I have checked resistance in both the r11 and q6 and both have not failed.
Hello, did you have 120 VAC at wax motor leads with wax motor connected? If not, I suspect you would get close to zero VAC when the wax motor is connected and you were reading a "ghost" voltage because there was no load present. The Q6 triac was probably not turning on and that is why the wax motor would not energize. Note: The wax motors get very hot to the touch when they are energized. That is how they work there is a heater in there that heats wax up and causes the wax to expand and push the actuator tip out and lock the door. They take about 45 seconds to heat up and 2 minutes to cool back down again. I am not aware of any black tipped wax motors failing. I hope this helps. See my other videos if your washer sounds like a jet plane taking off. I offer bearings and seal kits as well as the tony tool rental program Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
I've already replaced the bearings and the wax motor before, but am still not getting the washer to work. I've had to buy another old washer instead of waiting to figure this one out. I know how the wax motor works, but thanks for the help.
on my neptune the door lock lights up and the door locks but it still does not spin and it makes a little growling noise in the back corner of the machine one the side of the soap tray when it tries to go to the spin cycle and just never ramps up to spin speed just tumbles back and forth. What would cause this
If the door locked light is on but inner basket just rotates back and forth I would suspect a mechanical issue in the door latch assembly. There is a micro switch on the right side that should get pressed when the wax motor is fully extended. Sometimes the reach will not be quite enough to fully press in the micro switch. You can try removing the Z clip spring on the let side of wax motor and expanding it and carefully reinstalling it so you don't compress it too much. try that and see if that helps. The growling noise could be an issue. The motor drive is a 3 phase motor drive system and if one of the phases fail that will cause the motor to growl and it may not have the torque to rotate the inner basket to high speed. See 12002039.com for more information. Thank you, Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Hey there, do you know what effect "jerry rigging" the mechanical switch with a piece of plastic or similar would have? I recently temporarily "fixed" the no-spin using this method until I get parts for a tenant, but didn't think to stick around long enough to see that it actually came out of spin mode. Any thoughts?
Vernon Hamel I would also remove the burnt R11 resistor and Q6 triac from the control board before I run the machine. You can trick the right micro switch by placing some cardboard in the door latch to keep micro switch pressed in. The machine should work like normal except at the end of cycle the inner basket will keep tumbling back and forth since it thinks the door is still locked so don't run machine if you're not around to manually turn it off. This is the bypass method and if you bypass make sure children cannot open the door while it is spinning. See www.neptunehelp.com for more information on the STAGE 1 repair kit with new black tipped wax motor. Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Hi Rich, In most cases the R11 resistor, Q6 triac and wax motor does not damage the motor control board ... But it is possible. If you have the brown tipped wax motor see my www.neptunehelp.com to replace it. Remember that all of the timer based stand alone Neptune's shipped with the faulty brown tipped wax motor. Some stackers shipped with the new black tipped wax motor once Maytag figured out what the root cause was. I would check the belt first because that can cause no movement to happen. If you have noticed your Neptune getting louder in the spin cycles then that is the bearings failing. See my www.neptunebearing.com more information. In addition, bad bearings can damage the motor drive by putting excessive load on the motor drive system. I would recommend running the motor drive diagnostic test to see if your inner basket rotates at 50 rpms. There should be a document in the top console section on the stand alone Neptunes and it will tell you how to perform the motor drive diagnostic test. See my www.12002039.com for more motor drive information. I hope this helps... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
+John Gilbert Hi John, try unplugging the machine and waiting 3 minutes then try the door. If that does not work you can remove the soap dispenser lid/bezel (4 Phillips screws) and there should be a colored plastic cord to pull which should unlock the door. If you have a timer knob based Neptune (non digital) see my www.neptunehelpsong.com for a video that explains what happens when the faulty door lock wax motor fails. The new wax motor has a black colored actuator tip... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Hello, how do I know I haver to change wax door motor, my machine turns on (light for locked door doesn't go on) a bit of water comes in an then it shuts off, any idea what this could be?
If you have a timer knob based Neptune I would suspect either the control board has failed due to the original brown tipped wax motor in the door latch. Have you checked the circuit board in the top console section to see if R11 is burnt? If it is burnt you will need to get my STAGE 1 Q6 R11 repair kit with new black tipped wax motor or you will need to order a new machine control board and wax motor at 1-800-369-0999 parts line. Have your model and serial number available when you call. Jeff
I am having different issues. My washer completes the cycle but will not automatically de-energize the wax motor. It will continuously tumble every 15 sec or so after the cycle is complete. The "Door Lock" light is on, "On" light is on, and the dial appears to be pointing in the off position. I can turn off the washer by pressing and holding the start/stop button and waiting about 2 minutes for the wax motor to cool opening both switches at the locking assembly. The "Door Locked" light will turn Off. The door will then open. I thought it might be the wax motor so I have already replaced it with a black tipped one. I have also looked at the control board and there are not any fried resistors or triacs and no bulging capacitors. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! MAH3000AWA
Hi Chris, I suspect that your Q6 is shorted internally and that will keep the wax motor energized. Did you look at the machine control board located behind the timer in the console section? Typically, when Q6 shorts the R11 burns. See neptunehelpsong dot com for a video that will explain the failure. The motor control board is near the floor on the right side. If you have a MAH3000 with serial number starting with 10 - 25 then you have 2 more wax motors in the soap dispenser that you will want to replace as well if you use the bleach or softener functions. If not, you can simply disconnect 1 lead from each wax motor to disable. When these fail the circuit breaker will trip because these are connected directly to power cord via micro switches in the timer. I hope this helps you! Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been all over Internet looking for a solution including Neptunehelp dot com. I understand that q6 is a possibility internally. However neither q6 and r11 are burnt on the machine control board. I am a little confused why you directed me towards the motor control board though. Can you explain further? Thanks again
Hi Jeff, Just wanted to let you know that replacing the Q6 triac fixed my unique problem of not de-energizing the door wax motor. The R11 resistor visually checked ok; however I removed and checked the ohms with a multimeter. It was still good. I reused that resistor with no problems. The triac must have been shorted out internally as you described with no visual indications of the problem. Thanks again! Chris
Thanks for the video. Just adjusted my spring and moved the motor back to the right and is currently working while I wait on the new one. 20 bucks is wayyyy better than a new washer or technician!!
I found the spin enable switch to be defective (never makes contact when forced "active"). I opened it up, cleaned the contacting surfaces, reassembled and it works fine now. You have to cut the plastic rivets holding the switch housing together, then fuse them back in place after reassembly, so this is a one-time fix.
Hello, yes, I would recommend having a replacement switch available because it is hard to say how long the cleaning will last. Thank you for the tip to help others get their washer back up and running in a pinch. You can call 1 800 369 0999 to order appliance parts.
Thank you!
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
neptunewaxmotorcom Yes, I purchased a new switch from a parts supplier. I paid CD$38.00 and realized afterward that my local surplus electronics supplier has them priced at CD$3.50. They are all mostly the ever ubiquitous micro-switch.
I believe I have a bad wax motor, and it is the new one. I have power going to the motor wires, and the control board, r11 and q6 are both good, but the motor doesn't heat and expand. I have a replacement motor on order so I don't know for sure yet that it is the problem, but all signs point to it as I have checked resistance in both the r11 and q6 and both have not failed.
Hello, did you have 120 VAC at wax motor leads with wax motor connected? If not, I suspect you would get close to zero VAC when the wax motor is connected and you were reading a "ghost" voltage because there was no load present. The Q6 triac was probably not turning on and that is why the wax motor would not energize.
Note: The wax motors get very hot to the touch when they are energized. That is how they work there is a heater in there that heats wax up and causes the wax to expand and push the actuator tip out and lock the door. They take about 45 seconds to heat up and 2 minutes to cool back down again. I am not aware of any black tipped wax motors failing.
I hope this helps.
See my other videos if your washer sounds like a jet plane taking off. I offer bearings and seal kits as well as the tony tool rental program
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
I've already replaced the bearings and the wax motor before, but am still not getting the washer to work. I've had to buy another old washer instead of waiting to figure this one out. I know how the wax motor works, but thanks for the help.
on my neptune the door lock lights up and the door locks but it still does not spin and it makes a little growling noise in the back corner of the machine one the side of the soap tray when it tries to go to the spin cycle and just never ramps up to spin speed just tumbles back and forth. What would cause this
If the door locked light is on but inner basket just rotates back and forth I would suspect a mechanical issue in the door latch assembly. There is a micro switch on the right side that should get pressed when the wax motor is fully extended. Sometimes the reach will not be quite enough to fully press in the micro switch. You can try removing the Z clip spring on the let side of wax motor and expanding it and carefully reinstalling it so you don't compress it too much. try that and see if that helps.
The growling noise could be an issue. The motor drive is a 3 phase motor drive system and if one of the phases fail that will cause the motor to growl and it may not have the torque to rotate the inner basket to high speed. See 12002039.com for more information.
Thank you,
Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
Hey there, do you know what effect "jerry rigging" the mechanical switch with a piece of plastic or similar would have? I recently temporarily "fixed" the no-spin using this method until I get parts for a tenant, but didn't think to stick around long enough to see that it actually came out of spin mode. Any thoughts?
Vernon Hamel I would also remove the burnt R11 resistor and Q6 triac from the control board before I run the machine. You can trick the right micro switch by placing some cardboard in the door latch to keep micro switch pressed in.
The machine should work like normal except at the end of cycle the inner basket will keep tumbling back and forth since it thinks the door is still locked so don't run machine if you're not around to manually turn it off. This is the bypass method and if you bypass make sure children cannot open the door while it is spinning.
See www.neptunehelp.com for more information on the STAGE 1 repair kit with new black tipped wax motor.
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
My neptune washer drum doesn't turn at all. wash cycle or nothing. Is the R11/transistor and wax motor for this issue too. Thanks
Hi Rich, In most cases the R11 resistor, Q6 triac and wax motor does not damage the motor control board ... But it is possible. If you have the brown tipped wax motor see my www.neptunehelp.com to replace it. Remember that all of the timer based stand alone Neptune's shipped with the faulty brown tipped wax motor. Some stackers shipped with the new black tipped wax motor once Maytag figured out what the root cause was.
I would check the belt first because that can cause no movement to happen. If you have noticed your Neptune getting louder in the spin cycles then that is the bearings failing. See my www.neptunebearing.com more information. In addition, bad bearings can damage the motor drive by putting excessive load on the motor drive system.
I would recommend running the motor drive diagnostic test to see if your inner basket rotates at 50 rpms. There should be a document in the top console section on the stand alone Neptunes and it will tell you how to perform the motor drive diagnostic test. See my www.12002039.com for more motor drive information.
I hope this helps...
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
I can't open my washer door .the door lock light is on how do I get the door open
+John Gilbert Hi John, try unplugging the machine and waiting 3 minutes then try the door. If that does not work you can remove the soap dispenser lid/bezel (4 Phillips screws) and there should be a colored plastic cord to pull which should unlock the door. If you have a timer knob based Neptune (non digital) see my www.neptunehelpsong.com for a video that explains what happens when the faulty door lock wax motor fails. The new wax motor has a black colored actuator tip...
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
Hello, how do I know I haver to change wax door motor, my machine turns on (light for locked door doesn't go on) a bit of water comes in an then it shuts off, any idea what this could be?
Fantastic job A+ to you.
Hello, you're welcome. Let me know if you have any other questions... Jeff Hartman "The Neptune Man"
If you have a timer knob based Neptune I would suspect either the control board has failed due to the original brown tipped wax motor in the door latch. Have you checked the circuit board in the top console section to see if R11 is burnt? If it is burnt you will need to get my STAGE 1 Q6 R11 repair kit with new black tipped wax motor or you will need to order a new machine control board and wax motor at 1-800-369-0999 parts line. Have your model and serial number available when you call. Jeff
I am having different issues. My washer completes the cycle but will not automatically de-energize the wax motor. It will continuously tumble every 15 sec or so after the cycle is complete. The "Door Lock" light is on, "On" light is on, and the dial appears to be pointing in the off position. I can turn off the washer by pressing and holding the start/stop button and waiting about 2 minutes for the wax motor to cool opening both switches at the locking assembly. The "Door Locked" light will turn Off. The door will then open.
I thought it might be the wax motor so I have already replaced it with a black tipped one. I have also looked at the control board and there are not any fried resistors or triacs and no bulging capacitors. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance!
MAH3000AWA
Hi Chris, I suspect that your Q6 is shorted internally and that will keep the wax motor energized. Did you look at the machine control board located behind the timer in the console section? Typically, when Q6 shorts the R11 burns. See neptunehelpsong dot com for a video that will explain the failure. The motor control board is near the floor on the right side.
If you have a MAH3000 with serial number starting with 10 - 25 then you have 2 more wax motors in the soap dispenser that you will want to replace as well if you use the bleach or softener functions. If not, you can simply disconnect 1 lead from each wax motor to disable. When these fail the circuit breaker will trip because these are connected directly to power cord via micro switches in the timer.
I hope this helps you!
Jeff Hartman
"The Neptune Man"
Thanks for the quick reply. I have been all over Internet looking for a solution including Neptunehelp dot com. I understand that q6 is a possibility internally. However neither q6 and r11 are burnt on the machine control board.
I am a little confused why you directed me towards the motor control board though. Can you explain further? Thanks again
Hi Jeff,
Just wanted to let you know that replacing the Q6 triac fixed my unique problem of not de-energizing the door wax motor. The R11 resistor visually checked ok; however I removed and checked the ohms with a multimeter. It was still good. I reused that resistor with no problems. The triac must have been shorted out internally as you described with no visual indications of the problem.
Thanks again!
Chris