I use a cheap kids tent to do my blasting in. You can shake the media down to one corner to collect when you need to and it stops a lot of the dust! Very cheap and a lot of room to move bits around in there.
Just a few tips: Use garnet for blasting outside of a blast cabinet instead of aluminum oxide. It's far less dangerous. Protect your eyes with either. You can use degreaser instead of acetone to soak parts. Instead of just heating the welds, heat the whole pipe to try to out gas as much trapped oils as possible. Cerakote flexes a lot without any issues. No need to mask unless you just want to see some stainless showing for cosmetic purposes. You can use transfer grey to dissipate heat faster on the intake side of the turbo and plumbing, effectively increasing the intercooler size but don't get too carried away and blast the fins of the intercooler.
Nice video. I’m about to do a bike header in Glacier Black. Josh at PP/Cerakote told me that 000 SS wool would really make it shine. We’ll see. Nice job!
Question, headers and exhausts that come already ceramic coated I believe are coated on the inside and outside? If that’s true if diy just the outside won’t the inside surface metal get crazy hot? I know hotter means faster evacuation, but that heat concentration on the unprotected inside can’t be good for the metal? I read a comment somewhere that said too much heat can literally explode the metal from the inside. Can’t be good for a muffler either, especially a motorcycle muffler with just steel wool inside. I believe the ceramic on the outside is doing the opposite of dissipating heat, it’s actually acting like a shield and not allowing the heat to dissipate through the metal into the cooler air. That’s why it doesn’t feel as hot. But the inside I think is hot as hell, more so than normal. That’s why a coating on the inside is there on finished parts, the heat has no where to go but out. I’m interested to hear your or anyones thoughts on this. And if I’m right, how the hell do you diy a good coat on the inside of a long header or pipe? 🤔
Looks great mate! Can I ask what sort of compressor you were using for blasting? I have a 50L 9.5 CFM compressor but I keep seeing sellers of blast media recommending that you require a minimum of 18 CFM for the media to work...
I bought one of them sand blasting guns and 8 lbs of aluminum oxide i think it was like 10 or 20 grit i havent been using it cause of the waste trash can is good idea
any idea if this sandblaster would work on chrome? im refurbishing an old motorcycle an have alot of chrome that i dont want and i love the look of cerakote
I recently put in a new radiator. 2001 grand cherokee laredo 4.0 6 cyl. I also put in new steel lines on the radiator, but I don't know which skinny rubber hose they connect back to . does it matter ( seems to me it does) so would the upper radiator line connect with the upper skinny hose on transmission line and lower line with lower? The trans oil cooler lines that are held in place much like a brake line that then has 2 skinny rubber hoses. Please reply Help a girl out
question after you sandblasted and you are wiping down the exhaust pipes before you spray product, is that red rag soaked in anything or are you just wiping the freshly sandblasted stuff with a dry rag?
It's just a dry rag at that point to remove any remaining blasting media. Per Cerakote instructions, once you blast, no more chemicals before coating application.
You can't touch it while running, but after shutdown it's pretty cool to the touch within minutes. I'm in the process of building heat shields for everything as an additional precaution.
Has the Cerracoat coating failed on the areas of your exhaust that get the hottest. After some heat cycles you may be able to scratch it off with your fingernail . How is it going so far
I've heat cycled it a bunch now, as well as removed and installed the parts a bunch of times and can confidently say it's one of the more durable coatings I've ever used. I actually try to use it now for any parts that will see a lot of weather/wear.
basically you shot it in all directions, if you would have kept a straight flow, shoot all small and tight areas first, you would have had no orange peel.. before you start shooting Cerakote you should have used Acetone to wipe down all areas, blow it with the air hose to remove the media, then cerakoted the items...good luck
Thanks for this. I also discovered that my compressor was basically dropping to almost zero when I was spraying, resulting in poor atomization. This was user error on my part in adjusting my proportioning valve at the compressor. While the finish quality wasn't great, I'm happy to report it's holding up great!
@@PistonsofFury ya compressors can be a pain..that's why bought a 80 gal couple years back used it once a week until i started fabricating, but still goin strong ...so far... glad it's still holding up, customers just brought more exhaust manifolds and headers for ceramic coating ... Have a great weekend and don't stop..practice always makes perfect, heck call Cerakote and ask them tons of questions, they do have a good support team for sure
H series is an oven bake dry and it also takes a catalyst where is the C series is air dry. You could use the C series on the barrel of an AR if you plan on firing a whole lot of ammo back to back and get that thing really hot but if you’re just going out and plinking you’re not gonna get that issue in an H series is more than sufficient. When using the H series you need a 1.0 or a 1.2 nozzle because it is much finer and you’ll get a lot better results. Paul @ 4 Dogs Cerakote
Also keeping your project oil or grease free is absolutely critical or the Cerakote will not stick. Powder free latex gloves are a must and when I am doing a project just to be sure, I change gloves four or even five times from start to finish to make sure there’s no cross-contamination Such as if I need a pair of pliers to bend a hook the plier handles may have residual oil or grease and I’m not willing to take the chance of destroying a project to save a $.10 glove
I'm making a big assumption that if/when the bellow flexes, that it would crack the ceramic coat and cause it to flake in other areas. Also, the bellows are quality stainless steel from Vibrant, so they will not corrode like the mild steel tubing I used. It's all getting covered by heat shield though anyway, so the heat is less of a concern.
@@PistonsofFury ahhh.. i think the cerakote will flex some, but I'm not 100%.. they looked stainless, i just figured the main reason you were coating was to cut down on heat. came out good.. i'll have to do mine when i re-do my hotside.. :/ wondering if the cerakote will drop the temps enough where i don't have to wrap the exhaust though. mines a tight fit..
@@callofgeorge General internet consensus says to expect a ~20% drop in temps, which at turbo EGT's is fairly significant. With proper heat shielding though you can drop them significantly. I'd like to ultimately be able to take road trips without melting every piece of plastic/rubber in the engine bay.
@@PistonsofFury my thoughts exactly... i want to be able to street my car without worrying I'm going to melt something or catch something on fire.. not to mention, my up pipe is super close to my alternator..
Yeah that's what Cerakote recommends, but given the size of the parts I'm dealing with, and the fact that I'm a guy-in-a-shed operation, purchasing enough acetone to fill a giant tub seemed... irresponsible. So I did my best to clean everything and heat treat to remove any contaminants.
Per the Cerakote application instructions, you're supposed to bake the parts in a curing oven to ensure all of the contaminants from the welds are cooked off. Due to the size of the parts, the propane torch was next best thing I had available. Hoping it holds up!
So you did the sand blasting to prepare the surface to remove all of the rust. I will be working on a brand new set of stainless steel headers. Do you think I should still sand blast or just brush with some scotch bright to roughen the surface? Thank you
Cerakote recommends 120grit aluminum abrasive. I've seen videos of guys just hitting them with red scotchbrite, but I'd be worried about it not being the right profile for proper adhesion. I've used the scotchbrite red on stainless tubing before and the difference between that and the aluminum grit blasting is huge. Not to mention, stainless is a really hard metal, and difficult to scuff up really well by hand. Hope this helps. Good luck!
@@eduardo23rubio You think a rotary tool or drill with a scuff pad attachment would work pretty well? Maybe not as good as blasting but a lot better than by hand at least?
Well I haven't put any heat through everything yet. Will drop an update video once it's running and go over any issues. I can tell you the coating is definitely way tougher than quality auto paint though.
I use a cheap kids tent to do my blasting in. You can shake the media down to one corner to collect when you need to and it stops a lot of the dust! Very cheap and a lot of room to move bits around in there.
This is genius level innovation - definitely going to borrow it!
@@PistonsofFury anytime 😉 I have lots of hacks like that 👍
@@djnortz5449you should make a channel with them
Just a few tips:
Use garnet for blasting outside of a blast cabinet instead of aluminum oxide. It's far less dangerous. Protect your eyes with either.
You can use degreaser instead of acetone to soak parts. Instead of just heating the welds, heat the whole pipe to try to out gas as much trapped oils as possible.
Cerakote flexes a lot without any issues. No need to mask unless you just want to see some stainless showing for cosmetic purposes.
You can use transfer grey to dissipate heat faster on the intake side of the turbo and plumbing, effectively increasing the intercooler size but don't get too carried away and blast the fins of the intercooler.
Awesome info, thanks.
Nice video. I’m about to do a bike header in Glacier Black. Josh at PP/Cerakote told me that 000 SS wool would really make it shine. We’ll see. Nice job!
How is the header withstanding repeated heat cycles and wear and tear after 2 yrs ?
after 3 years how did this hold up on the hot side and in general? Is it as good as the industrial stuff?
+1 curious
X3
Interested to see how these hold up. Up and running em hot yet? Gonna do my motorcycle exhaust next I think.
Yeah I've cycled them a bunch of times - they're holding up well. Impressed with the finish and heat dissipation.
@@PistonsofFury have an IG or website I could follow their story? Ha
Question, headers and exhausts that come already ceramic coated I believe are coated on the inside and outside? If that’s true if diy just the outside won’t the inside surface metal get crazy hot? I know hotter means faster evacuation, but that heat concentration on the unprotected inside can’t be good for the metal? I read a comment somewhere that said too much heat can literally explode the metal from the inside. Can’t be good for a muffler either, especially a motorcycle muffler with just steel wool inside. I believe the ceramic on the outside is doing the opposite of dissipating heat, it’s actually acting like a shield and not allowing the heat to dissipate through the metal into the cooler air. That’s why it doesn’t feel as hot. But the inside I think is hot as hell, more so than normal. That’s why a coating on the inside is there on finished parts, the heat has no where to go but out. I’m interested to hear your or anyones thoughts on this. And if I’m right, how the hell do you diy a good coat on the inside of a long header or pipe? 🤔
Looks great mate! Can I ask what sort of compressor you were using for blasting? I have a 50L 9.5 CFM compressor but I keep seeing sellers of blast media recommending that you require a minimum of 18 CFM for the media to work...
Doesn't Cerakote recommend a .8 tip for that particular product?
yes, they do
I bought one of them sand blasting guns and 8 lbs of aluminum oxide i think it was like 10 or 20 grit i havent been using it cause of the waste trash can is good idea
Any reduction on heat? I was thinking of doing my long tubes but wasn’t sure if it’s really worth it.
Don't know yet, but I also plan on heat shielding all of the exhaust parts. The coating was more for corrosion protection (for me anyway).
fantastic video, do you have a list of parts where i can buy?
Did you also heat wrap or left them as is? How was the heat reduction if any?
any idea if this sandblaster would work on chrome? im refurbishing an old motorcycle an have alot of chrome that i dont want and i love the look of cerakote
Maybe you covered it but why did you heat the welds with the torch prior to sandblast?
he didn't have an oven so he was trying to gas out the metal
How much paint did you use for all of the exhaust parts?
Yeah how much?
Does it discolor when used? I noticed a lot of high temp paint and coating the color changes to black when it’s super hot like on headers
Looks great!!
I recently put in a new radiator. 2001 grand cherokee laredo 4.0 6 cyl. I also put in new steel lines on the radiator, but I don't know which skinny rubber hose they connect back to .
does it matter ( seems to me it does)
so would the upper radiator line connect with the upper skinny hose on transmission line and lower line with lower?
The trans oil cooler lines that are held in place much like a brake line that then has 2 skinny rubber hoses. Please reply
Help a girl out
question after you sandblasted and you are wiping down the exhaust pipes before you spray product, is that red rag soaked in anything or are you just wiping the freshly sandblasted stuff with a dry rag?
It's just a dry rag at that point to remove any remaining blasting media. Per Cerakote instructions, once you blast, no more chemicals before coating application.
@@PistonsofFury thank you brother
How good does it stop heat? Does it block radiation (IR heat) or does it actually stop it to the touch and stop heat conduction?
You can't touch it while running, but after shutdown it's pretty cool to the touch within minutes. I'm in the process of building heat shields for everything as an additional precaution.
how much temp could it bring down the parts with this coating?
How’s the air dry holding up one year on?
Holding up great! Definitely one of the most durable finishes I've applied.
Has the Cerracoat coating failed on the areas of your exhaust that get the hottest. After some heat cycles you may be able to scratch it off with your fingernail . How is it going so far
I've heat cycled it a bunch now, as well as removed and installed the parts a bunch of times and can confidently say it's one of the more durable coatings I've ever used. I actually try to use it now for any parts that will see a lot of weather/wear.
basically you shot it in all directions, if you would have kept a straight flow, shoot all small and tight areas first, you would have had no orange peel.. before you start shooting Cerakote you should have used Acetone to wipe down all areas, blow it with the air hose to remove the media, then cerakoted the items...good luck
Thanks for this. I also discovered that my compressor was basically dropping to almost zero when I was spraying, resulting in poor atomization. This was user error on my part in adjusting my proportioning valve at the compressor. While the finish quality wasn't great, I'm happy to report it's holding up great!
@@PistonsofFury ya compressors can be a pain..that's why bought a 80 gal couple years back used it once a week until i started fabricating, but still goin strong ...so far... glad it's still holding up, customers just brought more exhaust manifolds and headers for ceramic coating ... Have a great weekend and don't stop..practice always makes perfect, heck call Cerakote and ask them tons of questions, they do have a good support team for sure
I thought it was H series that was air dry any ways how strong is that for AR 15
H series is an oven bake dry and it also takes a catalyst where is the C series is air dry. You could use the C series on the barrel of an AR if you plan on firing a whole lot of ammo back to back and get that thing really hot but if you’re just going out and plinking you’re not gonna get that issue in an H series is more than sufficient. When using the H series you need a 1.0 or a 1.2 nozzle because it is much finer and you’ll get a lot better results.
Paul @ 4 Dogs Cerakote
Also keeping your project oil or grease free is absolutely critical or the Cerakote will not stick. Powder free latex gloves are a must and when I am doing a project just to be sure, I change gloves four or even five times from start to finish to make sure there’s no cross-contamination Such as if I need a pair of pliers to bend a hook the plier handles may have residual oil or grease and I’m not willing to take the chance of destroying a project to save a $.10 glove
Heat reduction????
How well did this hold up? Asking this question now in 2022
Really well! Highly recommend.
How is the durability of the C series?
It's pretty good, still holding up fine!
@@PistonsofFury can you recommend it for plastic parts that get handled just by hands?
How much cerakote did you use, does it seem to go a long way?
I used a pint and it covered all the hot side and cold side parts. You only need one coat so it goes pretty far.
so why'd you tape off the bellows?
I'm making a big assumption that if/when the bellow flexes, that it would crack the ceramic coat and cause it to flake in other areas. Also, the bellows are quality stainless steel from Vibrant, so they will not corrode like the mild steel tubing I used. It's all getting covered by heat shield though anyway, so the heat is less of a concern.
@@PistonsofFury ahhh.. i think the cerakote will flex some, but I'm not 100%.. they looked stainless, i just figured the main reason you were coating was to cut down on heat. came out good.. i'll have to do mine when i re-do my hotside.. :/
wondering if the cerakote will drop the temps enough where i don't have to wrap the exhaust though. mines a tight fit..
@@callofgeorge General internet consensus says to expect a ~20% drop in temps, which at turbo EGT's is fairly significant. With proper heat shielding though you can drop them significantly. I'd like to ultimately be able to take road trips without melting every piece of plastic/rubber in the engine bay.
@@PistonsofFury my thoughts exactly... i want to be able to street my car without worrying I'm going to melt something or catch something on fire.. not to mention, my up pipe is super close to my alternator..
hi mate didnt you have to degrease it soak it in acetone ?
Yeah that's what Cerakote recommends, but given the size of the parts I'm dealing with, and the fact that I'm a guy-in-a-shed operation, purchasing enough acetone to fill a giant tub seemed... irresponsible. So I did my best to clean everything and heat treat to remove any contaminants.
What color grey is that from cerakote? Number?
It's C-7600.
What was the purpose of heating the welds with the propane torch?
Per the Cerakote application instructions, you're supposed to bake the parts in a curing oven to ensure all of the contaminants from the welds are cooked off. Due to the size of the parts, the propane torch was next best thing I had available. Hoping it holds up!
Would anyone recommend HLVP or Airless for Cerakote? I want to try
I used HVLP, and it sprayed great.
So you did the sand blasting to prepare the surface to remove all of the rust.
I will be working on a brand new set of stainless steel headers. Do you think I should still sand blast or just brush with some scotch bright to roughen the surface?
Thank you
Cerakote recommends 120grit aluminum abrasive. I've seen videos of guys just hitting them with red scotchbrite, but I'd be worried about it not being the right profile for proper adhesion. I've used the scotchbrite red on stainless tubing before and the difference between that and the aluminum grit blasting is huge. Not to mention, stainless is a really hard metal, and difficult to scuff up really well by hand. Hope this helps. Good luck!
@@PistonsofFury thank you very much for the info!
@@eduardo23rubio You think a rotary tool or drill with a scuff pad attachment would work pretty well? Maybe not as good as blasting but a lot better than by hand at least?
Any updates temps etc?
Temps are great, durability is good. I'm still heat shielding everything though.
Looks very nice! What Cerakote color did you use?
It's Glacier Black (their "satin" coating).
how is it holding up?
Well I haven't put any heat through everything yet. Will drop an update video once it's running and go over any issues. I can tell you the coating is definitely way tougher than quality auto paint though.
Was going to sub until I saw the LS…