Poly spray filler definitely goes on thick like a milk shake. Just some helpful tips for us viewers, never spray poly filler over etching primer it's a no no. It is porous and will absorb silicone and oils from stuff like wd40 or if your shop has a greasy floor. It won't hold back moisture so if your project is going to sit for a while it's a good idea to seal it with epoxy primer. Sweet vacuum block ! 💥👍🏼
40 is too coarse, get you some guide coat, works best for blocking. When you want to check your work, wax and grease your panel to create a sheen (wet effect).
I'd to spray a black textured finish onto a customers camper today - trying to match the existing, except the existing is some sort of plastic stick on vinyl stuff the manufacturer used on all the door pillars, door tops, blah blah. It struck me as looking like a finer version of bedliner, so I decided to grab a can of bedliner, mix it 4-1 plus 30% reducer, chuck that through a 100 micron mesh to get the chunks out, shot it with a 1.3 tip in a LVLP gun with the pressure turned way up in order to really atomise it. . Blimey... it not alone worked, but it produces a finish that looks cool-as - way more refined than the usual bedliner gunk-fest, really smooth & glossy, but with that subtle textured look. No idea what my point is, but the look it created is so cool I had to vent. I now have it in my head that if you shot drab-olive military onto a vehicle & then did all the "trimmy/ancillary bits" with the toned-down bedliner, you could possibly have the coolest look ever for campers & the like (I work mostly on camper vans). It would also look cool as hell on stuff like door-tops, dashboards, firewalls, blah blah - I reckon it will become a very handy go-to material for stuff you want a cool, really durable finish that's very forgiving of the substrate being slightly naff-ish, It covers a multitude. Just my "Todays thing what I lurnt". :-)
Hello gunny , I use @ 2meters of 20mm DIA hose on my pinky bloxs then connect that to the vac hose .Takes the weight out of the blocks and easier to manoeuvre the block . Cheers
Yeah i definitely get you when you say near enough is good enough , especially in smash repairs , you got alot more jobs that have to go and you already spent a decent amount of time on that repair and its about 90% to 80% there you are just like put some primer on it get the next job done and if need be use some uv primer to fix it if you block through
Nice job Gunny, the spray filler is not very nice stuff to use, you sent me an audio message a while back when I was asking how you would use it, I didn't have any problems with it apart from the mess it makes with overspray but thanks for the advice mate it was spot on🙏👍John UK
Project looks great man! I have a love hate relationship with spray putty or poly filler, whatever you want to call it. I did SOOOOO many Ford raptor widebody kits it wasn't funny. Wavy fiberglass, they ALL needed ripped down with 120, filler skim, two sessions of poly filler, THAN they were ready for regular primer. Such a pain in the ass trying to make cheap fiberglass look good, but poly primer made it a lot easier.
G'day Mr Gunman, This must be a while ago. Im freezing my nuts off. But your right at certain times the camera does pick up the dip. I've got a circle block and a 1/2 circle. Just something I've picked up over the journey. But hey the door looks awesome. ✌️Peace from Melbourne 3810
Hey gunny, just though I’d ask that when you are sanding it seems to me more stright lines is that not hard to get the panels stright compared to like a cross hatch pattern. I struggle to get panels extra flat myself and I’ve been told by so many to never sand in stright lines. Just curious on what you think yourself ? Thanks
Sanding in dead straight lines can cause tram lines. I find it best to use a slightly diagonal or as you said cross hatch pattern. Every panel is different you just have to develop a feel for the particular panel you're sanding which comes with practice 👍
Shouldn't the car be all together when blocking so you block across all panels to get the same curves etc. Especially considering old cars had pretty bad panel fitment from the factory
@@TheGunmanChannel not exactly hard to do in the driveway, i thought you would do this in smash repair too, i'm no expert by any means, just learning by watching
@@thetwitchyaussiehomesteader you have no idea how hard it is to get these panels to align properly even with 2 people. And I've never seen that done in panel shops because cars are far from perfect from factory.
THE WORST THING IS BEACOUSE YOUR A SPRAY PAINTER PPL WILL LOOK AT IT HARDER TO SEE IF IT HAS ANY FAULT BUT IF YOU WERE JUST SOME JOE THATS NEVER SPRAYED BEFOR THEY WOULD THINK IT WAS AMAZING EVEN IF IT WASENT THAT GREAT.
I guess as long as you get the results you want no matter how you get there. I cringed when you started with 40 grit and I cringed more at your sanding technique. You had to be sanding groves, creating more work for yourself. Sanding cross hatch back and forth faster results. I use 36-40 grit to remove rust or paint.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Poly spray filler definitely goes on thick like a milk shake. Just some helpful tips for us viewers, never spray poly filler over etching primer it's a no no. It is porous and will absorb silicone and oils from stuff like wd40 or if your shop has a greasy floor. It won't hold back moisture so if your project is going to sit for a while it's a good idea to seal it with epoxy primer. Sweet vacuum block ! 💥👍🏼
Fun project, thanks! Looking forward to the booth :)
40 is too coarse, get you some guide coat, works best for blocking. When you want to check your work, wax and grease your panel to create a sheen (wet effect).
I'd to spray a black textured finish onto a customers camper today - trying to match the existing, except the existing is some sort of plastic stick on vinyl stuff the manufacturer used on all the door pillars, door tops, blah blah. It struck me as looking like a finer version of bedliner, so I decided to grab a can of bedliner, mix it 4-1 plus 30% reducer, chuck that through a 100 micron mesh to get the chunks out, shot it with a 1.3 tip in a LVLP gun with the pressure turned way up in order to really atomise it. .
Blimey... it not alone worked, but it produces a finish that looks cool-as - way more refined than the usual bedliner gunk-fest, really smooth & glossy, but with that subtle textured look. No idea what my point is, but the look it created is so cool I had to vent. I now have it in my head that if you shot drab-olive military onto a vehicle & then did all the "trimmy/ancillary bits" with the toned-down bedliner, you could possibly have the coolest look ever for campers & the like (I work mostly on camper vans).
It would also look cool as hell on stuff like door-tops, dashboards, firewalls, blah blah - I reckon it will become a very handy go-to material for stuff you want a cool, really durable finish that's very forgiving of the substrate being slightly naff-ish, It covers a multitude. Just my "Todays thing what I lurnt". :-)
Looks good champ 👍
didn't even know long vacuum blocks like this existed loll Nice lil body shop too 👍
Getting tonthe exciting part of this project, soon be paint videos at this rate
Are you still working in the shop gunny? Seen no uploads
Hello gunny , I use @ 2meters of 20mm DIA hose on my pinky bloxs then connect that to the vac hose .Takes the weight out of the blocks and easier to manoeuvre the block .
Cheers
Yeah i definitely get you when you say near enough is good enough , especially in smash repairs , you got alot more jobs that have to go and you already spent a decent amount of time on that repair and its about 90% to 80% there you are just like put some primer on it get the next job done and if need be use some uv primer to fix it if you block through
Nice job Gunny, the spray filler is not very nice stuff to use, you sent me an audio message a while back when I was asking how you would use it, I didn't have any problems with it apart from the mess it makes with overspray but thanks for the advice mate it was spot on🙏👍John UK
I went to the hardware store and purchased wooden doll rods verious thickness I rap my sandpaper around the dollrod and I use it on curves
2 hands on that block
Project looks great man! I have a love hate relationship with spray putty or poly filler, whatever you want to call it. I did SOOOOO many Ford raptor widebody kits it wasn't funny. Wavy fiberglass, they ALL needed ripped down with 120, filler skim, two sessions of poly filler, THAN they were ready for regular primer. Such a pain in the ass trying to make cheap fiberglass look good, but poly primer made it a lot easier.
Hi. Enjoying your videos. What kind of video camera do you use when spaying? Is it a body camera or head camera?
Wondering why your not cross sanding in an x pattern.
G'day Mr Gunman,
This must be a while ago. Im freezing my nuts off.
But your right at certain times the camera does pick up the dip. I've got a circle block and a 1/2 circle. Just something I've picked up over the journey. But hey the door looks awesome.
✌️Peace from Melbourne 3810
Hey gunny, just though I’d ask that when you are sanding it seems to me more stright lines is that not hard to get the panels stright compared to like a cross hatch pattern. I struggle to get panels extra flat myself and I’ve been told by so many to never sand in stright lines. Just curious on what you think yourself ? Thanks
Sanding in dead straight lines can cause tram lines. I find it best to use a slightly diagonal or as you said cross hatch pattern. Every panel is different you just have to develop a feel for the particular panel you're sanding which comes with practice 👍
agree, cross hatch avoids sanding in grooves. the block should always stay in the panel's "flatest" direction, but move diagonally.
Couldn’t you drill like a 1/8 hole thru where the vacuum pipe meets the the block and put a pin thru to stop it always falling off?
I guess I could have.
Shouldn't the car be all together when blocking so you block across all panels to get the same curves etc. Especially considering old cars had pretty bad panel fitment from the factory
I'm not a high end restoration shop mate, I'm just saving a car which was all but dead.
@@TheGunmanChannel not exactly hard to do in the driveway, i thought you would do this in smash repair too, i'm no expert by any means, just learning by watching
@@thetwitchyaussiehomesteader you have no idea how hard it is to get these panels to align properly even with 2 people. And I've never seen that done in panel shops because cars are far from perfect from factory.
What brand of block are you using at the beginning gunman
Pinky's blox
THE WORST THING IS BEACOUSE YOUR A SPRAY PAINTER PPL WILL LOOK AT IT HARDER TO SEE IF IT HAS ANY FAULT BUT IF YOU WERE JUST SOME JOE THATS NEVER SPRAYED BEFOR THEY WOULD THINK IT WAS AMAZING EVEN IF IT WASENT THAT GREAT.
Is there an official gunman music playlist or just a generic ncs playlist
I just had some generic NCS best of playlist in the background.
I wanna help brother please.
Yeah
I guess as long as you get the results you want no matter how you get there. I cringed when you started with 40 grit and I cringed more at your sanding technique. You had to be sanding groves, creating more work for yourself. Sanding cross hatch back and forth faster results. I use 36-40 grit to remove rust or paint.
There is a general rule standing but you can send it anywhere you want if it comes out laser straight gummy can get it laser straight
@@tonydiesel3444 Sounds like you prefer the sycophant technique 🤣🤣