I really enjoy watching all your boat videos bro. You are very informative and knowledgeable. You go into detail in your videos and I appreciate learning all I can from you. Thanks again for making awesome videos for everyone to learn and enjoy 🤙🏽
@@IRONCLADRC Going out tomorrow, there was an event at the park where i run today! The boat sure looks sweet though! Oh Heck glad to hear it! I'm going to test a few props as well after running there stock one, which ripped pretty darn good on your boat! Will see how this Fly Cut does.
Great tips man. I never thought of rebending my bent shafts to get rid of that vibration. You saved me some dough cause i thought i had to buy a new shaft anytime that wobbling showed up. I also need to get a dubro balancer cause im thinking my magnetic one aint balancing too well
So.e time you can save them, not in all cases. I've has shafts bend in a couple different places which is impossible to save. Worth a shot. A perfectly balanced prop will work miracles on a out of balanced shaft shaft.
Those shafts are the exact same kinda deal they use in the flex shafts of rotary tools. And I know that harbor freight has those shafts for dirt cheap, but I have no clue what one of those shafts cost y'all in the boats. I do know that if you overspeed one they'll totally destroy the shafts and sometimes even those tiny roller bearings inside them flex shafts.
"I ain't got time to make sure there ain't no grease on the end of my shaft. I got shit to do." That's what I literally say 10 times a day!! 🇺🇸🇺🇸🤘🏻🤘🏻 'MURICA! 🤘🏻🤘🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸 F'ing SUBSCRIBED Brother!!!
Great tips mate, the grub screw on my pursuit rudder backed out and locked up the rudder . Cheap servo stripped out but now I know check these things. I'll do all this to my Veles when it gets here . The flex shaft idea is fantastic, I bet half our boats do that. Thanks for the video mate great tips.
Fun and informative as always. 😉 One tool I have found incredibly useful in the shop when dealing with drivelines and such is a mini-lathe. These were usually cost prohibitive, starting at over $600. I just recently saw one on eBay from a manufacturer in India for $210 shipped. If I didn't already have one, I would have bought it already. I'm thinking of getting one because it has a better motor and a longer bed than mine. I'd take that crimped portion of the shaft where the cable enters and chuck it up in the lathe with the prop shaft projecting out from the jaws (the spindle is hollow, so there's a place for the cable to go). Then you can rotate it by hand and tweak the prop shaft into alignment with the crimped shaft/cable. A drill chuck probably won't work because there's no place for the cable to go.
Thanks doc. I've been looking at those cheap harbor freight lathes, not sure the quality 🤔 On a positive note I got the 1:20 patched up all it needs is paint.
@@IRONCLADRC You can always upgrade the mini-lathes, but for hand-bending a "slightly-off" factory crimp, it's the bee's knees. I haven't been doing much boat-related stuff over the past few weeks. Too many interruptions. I did check my Atlas, and it seems I let the smoke out of the ESC. A little bird said stick a Dynamite 30 in there, which I promptly did. Maybe videos Monday. ALSO: I think I found the left-turning issue on the Dona. More on that later.
Oh yea can't wait to see the 120 back on the water, paint is currently drying on mine. I cut off the mounting tabs on my dynamite 30 and took off the cooling nipples so it would fit as far forward as I could get it
@@IRONCLADRCI did the exact same trim & remove on the ESC. Might be able to test it on Monday. I envy you having so many bodies of water nearby. I live in a desert. 🙄
Great tips. Heck, I've been buying shafts from ose for that problem. Thanks, is corrosion x only available on line ? Thanks for answering so many of my questions in this one video. Your great sir....
Yea I've only found corrosion x online. Just be careful when trying to fix an out of wack shaft you could make it worse. I'd definitely suggest getting a new shaft if it's too bad ya know.
@@IRONCLADRC hey ,thanks. Your videos are great help for all of us. New, young and old. Even 10 second Tom's like me. Lol actually it's about every 5 or 6 days. You are appreciated by us..
Big B another good one for the books! Please keep the Veles videos coming as well as the V2 sonicwake videos as my father and I both just got our first catamarans and I am upgrading to a V2 sonicwake with my leopard 4082 and OSE 150 that I took out of my V1 SW. P.S. let’s see the Veles on 6s 🚢💨 with some prop testing!
@@IRONCLADRC look at the dragon f1 tunnels. They have amazing diy outboard. But still strut needs to be done from copper or aluminum. 3d printed strut is not stiff enough
Really useful tips there Big B. Not boring at all even to experienced builders. We never know enough to not learn more! 👍 To be honest I'm amazed that a kink in the cable was the cause of an off-centred shaft. If the shaft is dead true (which it is) does this suggest that the strut bushings aren't as snug to shaft as they should be?
@@IRONCLADRC You sure sorted it bro. I wasn't suggesting you were wrong about the cause, you were bang on. But perhaps a manufacturing issue if a cable kink can be transferred through to a perfectly straight shaft? If the bushings were tighter the vibration would be at the end of the cable and not cause the wobble you had on the shaft before you fixed it.
The veles is actually a soiled boat I don't have any experience with the black marlin but I've seen issues arise with the electronics on the black marlin.
@@IRONCLADRC Yeah that sounds good. but it seems like more of a straight arrow boat. I like the ones that you got that can handle the corners under power.
BRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!......i just got my veles29 and i sat it on the stand and it slid down and chipped the leading edge on the botton of the boat....is there a epoxy that will dry hard enough to sand?...i used the white marine stuff but it didnt dry as hard as i wanted it to...its rough and will create drag...i could probably paint over it to make it smooth but i would rather use epoxi...ive never worked with fiber glass but i know i can do it...i just dont want to get into fiber glass today if i dont have to.
@@IRONCLADRC .....BRO, i was at lowes and was debating on getting "bondo"...they have a fiberglass bondo as well...i chose to get "jb weld" epoxi that comes with separate containers to mix so that i will have plenty for other things...i know that if i have a complete punchure or whatever then i need to fiberglass stuff but for mild chips and scratches or whatever...what do you recommend for fiberglass and for plastic/abs or whatever the other hulls are made of?
I really enjoy watching all your boat videos bro. You are very informative and knowledgeable. You go into detail in your videos and I appreciate learning all I can from you. Thanks again for making awesome videos for everyone to learn and enjoy 🤙🏽
I appreciate it brother. Glad I can help. bg4l
Hell yeah! My boat arrived today!
How did the maiden go. The 4519 prop you sent did pretty good on the veles this evening. New found stability
@@IRONCLADRC Going out tomorrow, there was an event at the park where i run today! The boat sure looks sweet though! Oh Heck glad to hear it! I'm going to test a few props as well after running there stock one, which ripped pretty darn good on your boat! Will see how this Fly Cut does.
Great tips man. I never thought of rebending my bent shafts to get rid of that vibration. You saved me some dough cause i thought i had to buy a new shaft anytime that wobbling showed up. I also need to get a dubro balancer cause im thinking my magnetic one aint balancing too well
So.e time you can save them, not in all cases. I've has shafts bend in a couple different places which is impossible to save. Worth a shot. A perfectly balanced prop will work miracles on a out of balanced shaft shaft.
Those shafts are the exact same kinda deal they use in the flex shafts of rotary tools. And I know that harbor freight has those shafts for dirt cheap, but I have no clue what one of those shafts cost y'all in the boats. I do know that if you overspeed one they'll totally destroy the shafts and sometimes even those tiny roller bearings inside them flex shafts.
great job,boat absalutely flies 😀so fast 😀👍👍
"I ain't got time to make sure there ain't no grease on the end of my shaft. I got shit to do."
That's what I literally say 10 times a day!!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🤘🏻🤘🏻 'MURICA! 🤘🏻🤘🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
F'ing SUBSCRIBED Brother!!!
Ain't that the truth brother. Thanks for watching, & Welcome to the BOAT GANG. BG4L
Great tips mate, the grub screw on my pursuit rudder backed out and locked up the rudder . Cheap servo stripped out but now I know check these things. I'll do all this to my Veles when it gets here . The flex shaft idea is fantastic, I bet half our boats do that. Thanks for the video mate great tips.
No problem brother glad I can help. BUILD IT IRONCLAD
@@IRONCLADRC I'm about to glue a carbon fibre motor mount to ABS hull, what glue would you use mate. I'm thinking super glue then epoxy over the top .
*Marvellous construction works 😍👏*
Fun and informative as always. 😉 One tool I have found incredibly useful in the shop when dealing with drivelines and such is a mini-lathe. These were usually cost prohibitive, starting at over $600. I just recently saw one on eBay from a manufacturer in India for $210 shipped. If I didn't already have one, I would have bought it already. I'm thinking of getting one because it has a better motor and a longer bed than mine.
I'd take that crimped portion of the shaft where the cable enters and chuck it up in the lathe with the prop shaft projecting out from the jaws (the spindle is hollow, so there's a place for the cable to go). Then you can rotate it by hand and tweak the prop shaft into alignment with the crimped shaft/cable. A drill chuck probably won't work because there's no place for the cable to go.
Thanks doc. I've been looking at those cheap harbor freight lathes, not sure the quality 🤔
On a positive note I got the 1:20 patched up all it needs is paint.
@@IRONCLADRC You can always upgrade the mini-lathes, but for hand-bending a "slightly-off" factory crimp, it's the bee's knees. I haven't been doing much boat-related stuff over the past few weeks. Too many interruptions. I did check my Atlas, and it seems I let the smoke out of the ESC. A little bird said stick a Dynamite 30 in there, which I promptly did. Maybe videos Monday. ALSO: I think I found the left-turning issue on the Dona. More on that later.
Oh yea can't wait to see the 120 back on the water, paint is currently drying on mine. I cut off the mounting tabs on my dynamite 30 and took off the cooling nipples so it would fit as far forward as I could get it
@@IRONCLADRCI did the exact same trim & remove on the ESC. Might be able to test it on Monday. I envy you having so many bodies of water nearby. I live in a desert. 🙄
Great tips. Heck, I've been buying shafts from ose for that problem. Thanks, is corrosion x only available on line ? Thanks for answering so many of my questions in this one video. Your great sir....
Yea I've only found corrosion x online. Just be careful when trying to fix an out of wack shaft you could make it worse. I'd definitely suggest getting a new shaft if it's too bad ya know.
@@IRONCLADRC hey ,thanks. Your videos are great help for all of us. New, young and old. Even 10 second Tom's like me. Lol actually it's about every 5 or 6 days. You are appreciated by us..
Big B another good one for the books! Please keep the Veles videos coming as well as the V2 sonicwake videos as my father and I both just got our first catamarans and I am upgrading to a V2 sonicwake with my leopard 4082 and OSE 150 that I took out of my V1 SW.
P.S. let’s see the Veles on 6s 🚢💨 with some prop testing!
Yes sir I'm going out this weekend to do some prop testing and tuning video possibility coming monday
very interesting tips! thanks for the video. how high did you mount the strut?
Inline with the ride surface
As always great video and tips.
Big B have you tried to make strut or outboard motor by yourself ? Will be great to see how to video on strut making
I've been tinkering with the idea but yet to attempt. We I've actually started the process of making a mi I outboard but haven't worked out the kninks
@@IRONCLADRC look at the dragon f1 tunnels. They have amazing diy outboard. But still strut needs to be done from copper or aluminum. 3d printed strut is not stiff enough
Really useful tips there Big B. Not boring at all even to experienced builders. We never know enough to not learn more! 👍
To be honest I'm amazed that a kink in the cable was the cause of an off-centred shaft. If the shaft is dead true (which it is) does this suggest that the strut bushings aren't as snug to shaft as they should be?
Well the cable wasn't the cause it was the connection point along with the prop, made the bushings to wear prematurely. Idk. It's much better now.
@@IRONCLADRC You sure sorted it bro. I wasn't suggesting you were wrong about the cause, you were bang on. But perhaps a manufacturing issue if a cable kink can be transferred through to a perfectly straight shaft? If the bushings were tighter the vibration would be at the end of the cable and not cause the wobble you had on the shaft before you fixed it.
Taken more care about the boats than my parents did for me 😂
Question for you Big B. What would be better for a First boat. Black Marlin Rage or a Proboat Veals 29" 🤔👍✌
The veles is actually a soiled boat I don't have any experience with the black marlin but I've seen issues arise with the electronics on the black marlin.
@@IRONCLADRC Thank you very much 🍻
Yea man I'd go with the veles for sure.
@@IRONCLADRC Yeah that sounds good. but it seems like more of a straight arrow boat. I like the ones that you got that can handle the corners under power.
Hi big B....If i rin my velez on 6S that 0.15 flexshafgt doesnt brake ? Also the 120 amp esc doesnt..get very hot ?
I twisted my .150 cable in half on 6
Hell Yeah Brother!
Aap ne iye kaha se li h hame bhi leni h or iska name kya h pls hame bata do comment me
BRO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!......i just got my veles29 and i sat it on the stand and it slid down and chipped the leading edge on the botton of the boat....is there a epoxy that will dry hard enough to sand?...i used the white marine stuff but it didnt dry as hard as i wanted it to...its rough and will create drag...i could probably paint over it to make it smooth but i would rather use epoxi...ive never worked with fiber glass but i know i can do it...i just dont want to get into fiber glass today if i dont have to.
24 hour epoxy with micro balloons would be the best filler or bondo auto filler
@@IRONCLADRC .....BRO, i was at lowes and was debating on getting "bondo"...they have a fiberglass bondo as well...i chose to get "jb weld" epoxi that comes with separate containers to mix so that i will have plenty for other things...i know that if i have a complete punchure or whatever then i need to fiberglass stuff but for mild chips and scratches or whatever...what do you recommend for fiberglass and for plastic/abs or whatever the other hulls are made of?
@@IRONCLADRC ....and what is "micro baloons"?
Micro balloons is an additive that Thickens epoxy epoxy for filling holes your on the right track with the repair good luck brother