Hey! Super useful video, but I have a question: I tried your method and it worked great after a couple tries but the part I duplicated needs to fit on a very long peg and after boring out the cavity on the duplicate so it'll fit, it's way too loose. What do I need to do to tighten it up so it fits snug? My attempt to use more epoxy to tighten it wound up sticking almost exclusively to the peg and not the duplicate part so I'm not quite sure what to try next.
Hm, that’s a tricky problem. Yeah I think the easiest way would be to thicken up the peg by adding epoxy to it and sanding down. But if for whatever reason you don’t want to alter the peg, maybe fill the hole and bore a new narrower one in its place?
@@MidnightHatter Thanks for getting back to me! The latter sounds more like the ideas I've been considering so that might be the way to go. That said, I'm a little concerned about just repeating the same problem over again when I go to bore it back out, lol. (Guess I'll just need to 'git gud'.) Anyway, thanks again; I think I'll try that or maybe like... one other bad idea I just had. If you're interested I'll let you know what works.
@@MidnightHatter Okay, so I modified this tip from a tutorial on swapping larger parts onto smaller ball joints from Jin Saotome's 'dangerous toys' website from waaaay back- Three words: Hot Glue Gun. Coat the peg in cooking oil, apply a dollop of hot glue and press the part you want to fit onto it. You might have to try a couple times but if you get it right It'll form a nice snug seal without damaging either piece, and if you're *lucky* the glue will just stick to your duplicate part. Mine didn't but I now have a little rubber sheathe I can stick back on the peg so I dont' think it'll matter in the long run.
This is a lifesaver indeed, I'm starting to step up to making custom parts and duplicates, I'll try this one out. planning to build the duplicate parts of the Shining Break and make a customized suit from it.
Press the blue stuff into a rigid box half lined with mold release before pressing in the part to be duplicated. The rounded blob deforms the relief when you start pushing in on the sides and wiggling the part around. The more supported you can make the blue stuff when it's melted, the better your parts will be copied. Set the blue stuff, press in your part once, and leave it alone; don't try to adjust it.
Not sure if you've heard of this, but Apoxie makes a product called "Safety Solvent". I use Apoxie Sculpt for a lot of projects, such as sandbags for FoW, uneven ground on bases, and so on. I've thinned it down almost to consistency of hot glue and have gotten very good results. Details are much better than dry.
Just found this video after watching more than half a dozen (including a few from some very well-known model makers), and yours is the most thorough, from the consistency (Taffy -- something VERY important, that I had to learn from trial & error since the other videos left this detail out). The thinning of the epoxy putty for max detail was a big bonus from your video for me. Much appreciation! 🙏🙏🙏 One thing I'm curious about, which I'll find out in 24 hours -- will thinking the epoxy putty (I'm using Tammy's quick type) result in the duplicate being weaker? Thanks again.
I’m glad it was a help! Thank you for watching! To answer your question, yes the acetone treated parts are more fragile and brittle than not. But I think it’s a small price to pay for more accurate detail.
I needed a simple idea like this. I just got The-O and it has SO many cool thrusters and exhaust pieces that are just begging to be used in scratch builds and kitbashing.
Ever try kwikwood epoxy from JB weld, you can buy it at Walmart, it cures in 1 hour, 20 min work time, cost around $4.75, I use it all the time with sculpting, but have never tried it in a mold. Have to get me some of that blue stuff
oyumaru is most likely polycaprolacton(PCL) it is used in 3d print filament. but if you can't find it it under that name try using thermoplastic it is a collective name for these plastics like PCL. NOTE: before buying read what effect it can have. while most sold thermoplastics are safe there are some that aren't.
Great vid. One question: any idea on the long term effects of dipping your e.p. in acetone? Honestly, if you told me it says to do it right on the package, I wouldn't be surprised. But I know that epoxy putty is a curable plastic based material, so could there be some unwanted effects down the line - specifically structural damage or painting issues. Thanks for such a detailed vid!!
I haven't had issues with painting, but it does make really small parts much more brittle compared to regular Apoxy. That's probably something I ought to have mentioned, but since you can always just make another copy of the original part, it's not a deal breaker for me.
Omg I need to do this. The plastic that connects parts of the Shia QuanT's sword wing bits are so thin and break too easily so I been wanting replacements.
I need to replace parts C6 and B12 from my Gundam Barbatos MG. The C6 part split and a chunk got stuck in B12. This is very upset in game and a waste of 50 dollars. If you have the time, can you help me out here?
Astyanax title screen song remix. Nice! One thing I have to ask: you dunked the epoxy putty in acetone. Won't the oyumaru melt and fuse with the putty?
Thanks! One of my favorite games. Acetone only melts certain types of rigid plastic, the oyumaru is a soft thermoplastic that doesn’t react to acetone (well at least not in such a small dose)
@@MidnightHatter thanks for replying so quickly to an older video. That was a major concern I had when considering this. I'm going to try this. This may seem more economical than buying copies of kits.
Unfortunately not a reality without 1. Pressure temp control of plastic If you have ever tried melting plastic the issues are mainly controlling temp without burning it. Mainly this plastic hardens at lower than room temp so filling mold properly will be next to impossible. There are easier and cheaper methods on the long run, but he has it right this will work decent. I suggested using a UV curing resin which is much better viscosity and you control how and when you want it to harden via UV light (sun sucks for this use light). Don’t use bondic look up Jewelry I’ve curing resin. Good luck boys welcome to add me on FB under “Gunpla Adolph”
@@redsand210 why you talkin bout temperature to melt it dude? Just use some tamiya cement, or plastruct. Idk if that'l bond or melt the mold too but I've seen some guy on fb by the name of gunpla caster doing it, I'm not sure what his molds are made of though
@@redsand210 from what I've heard, uv resin won't work in these. 😭 I've been casting missing model parts with uv resin, since it's less toxic than epoxy resin
Rainheart 13YT That’s a really good question. I haven’t tried it but I would worry that the melted plastic would bond to the mold. I would think the melted runners technique would work better with a silicone mold.
So i can use epoxy resin and hardener in place of epoxy putty right? cuz I'm planning to recast a clear part because I want it in a different color for a custom
Yes you can! I hadn’t tried it at the time of this video, but in this live stream I show off the results of some pour over resin in an oyumaru mold: th-cam.com/video/KfusFsEPHOE/w-d-xo.html Should I make an updated video with the new techniques I’ve learned?
Look up light curing resin on amazon for making jewelry! Do not use the cheap ass bondic! Long story short the UV light will cure throughout the transparent mold. In Japan they sell fully clear type but I’ve tested and it cures the same. Again I recommend brand decorRom. There is a Japan brand that’s the best but not good enough for price difference. I found it’s important to try and use this brand (decorRom) because almost all others especially bondic will cause yellowing/sticky to the touch/white frost. If you need help add me on face book brotha “Gunpla Adolph” is my name on there. I subbed and like the setup you have looking forward to watching ur other videos man!
Is it possible to make a mold of the rg god gundam core lander hinges and wing attachment parts as one side of mine broke and I cant get the broken part out so I plan on buying this stuff to mold a new part for it
I can’t speak to those specific parts because I don’t have that kit. But as long as it’s an exact copy and not one of those parts that has to be mirrored on the opposite side, it should work
This . . . is a lifesaver. I have broken so many V-fins (particularly my Mk. II Titans Revive's V-fin) and other parts, and I wanna make spares. Though I have to wonder if the Oyamaru stuff is available here in the Philippines. Anyway, this is good stuff, dude! (Teeny nitpick: uhh . . . microphone could be a bit better but eh. Still. Good job.)
Thank you! Yes, I am super clumsy and I break parts all the time. I found this website: shopee.ph/IROPURA-PLASTIC-CLAY-SET-OYUMARU-MOLD-i.7446540.99816865 Does it work? Also, sorry about the audio! I've been trying to get better recording gear. Thanks again and I hope you can find the oyumaru!
I honestly haven’t tried it, but I wouldn’t recommend it since epoxy resins and glues get hot while they cure, and that would ruin the mold since the oyumaru reacts to heat.
@@MidnightHatter That's a good point. I'm going to try it anyways. I need to make clear copies of the MG Unicorn's head camera and eye parts. Just Googled how hot resin gets and they say it can reach 400 F when mixed in large amounts. Hopefully it works with these small parts.
@@GMMesmerize Terrible. lol The epoxy didn't seem to have cured well/ hard enough to do anything with it. I think when I squeezed the the syringe it didn't come out in equal parts so that's probably why.
@@KevinLam86 okay. I'm gonna use hardware epoxy putty from home depot, and also acetone melted runners/spruces. Some parts will be high stress joint parts, and I need it to be strong, less concern on detail
Dunno if you will see this but does this work with a hg jegan visor? Couse i am going to be getting the stark jegan soon and i want to have both of the heads with visors so that i can let the regular stark jegan head on the kit and gonna be giving the other one to some other kit.
I don't know exactly which visor you're copying, but if it's the part I'm thinking of it should work fine. With a part that small though you may need to do a fair bit of touching up and sanding afterward just so it fits well.
im thinking on buying this from amazon. so i want to cast 1/24 or 5 scale guns (pistols, assault rifles) and maybe make a diorama. will this make a good mold for them? (i like to make 1/24 scale cars so that is why 1/24 scale) i live in finland so i dont know where to get the "resin" for this, but that wont propably be a problem.
That should work fine. Probably even better than on Gundam parts honestly. There's another video on TH-cam showing weapons like that: th-cam.com/video/9VMIaqw5WKQ/w-d-xo.html
I mean this would be good for making multiple copies of the torso for my astray red frame high grade to finish out my successor series. during the original battle for orb A M1 pilot, His unit was damaged And he took the arms from a fallen 105 strike dagger And the legs from A CGUE alongside the wings. And the pilot of the gold frame and the red frame saw the success of the unit And decided to help him build a proper gundam level unit, using replica parts from the red frame and the production facility controlled by the pilot of the gold frame the 1st unit of the guidance gundams was finished. Right before the battle of is battle of Genesis. And during the time skip between seed and destiny The pilot of the guidance Alongside the pilot of the gold frame built 5 more units. Each one having different arms and legs and weapon functionality, But the only thing similar about them was the torso section the base concept for the head And the fact that all of them had freedom Style hip railguns And stolen technology and information Of Is the n jammer and n jammer canceler, To allow all 6 of the units to be nuclear powered, Including the original prototype built off a damaged M1, And the technology of the energy Shields from the Hyperion gundam Mounted into the back of the hands just like the destiny gundam. And so the guidance gundam, the heavens guidance gundam, The chaotic guidance gundam, The gaias guidance gundam, the fates guidance gundam and the Cataclysmic guidance Gundam were born. All having variable phase shift armor, nuclear power, energy Shields, hip rail guns, each with their own signature arms legs weapons and backpacks but like the strike series all backpacks are interchangeable and can also be fitted onto the original astray units, civilian astray units, the astray out frame and the Testament gundam. Helping in the battles for orb and alongside the archangel in its battles athe the other ships of the 3 ships alliance.
Honestly, I haven't tried. The finished product is sort of dry and brittle though, so I think you're probably better off with green stuff if it's a ball joint or anything you want snug.
@@MidnightHatter It's the epoxy then. I'm using a new one and its scary durable (hurt my fingers trying to break it). Different set of problems though. A and B are both pastes instead of putty so you can't mix by hand and I always have to use a "sacrificial surface" to mix on. More importantly it causes air bubbles and I don't know how to fix that.
I can't say 100%, because it depends on the type/placement of the sticker, but it shouldn't be a problem. The oyumaru isn't sticky at all, it just bonds to itself.
Midnight Hatter appreciate the response . I am planning duplicate a backpack part of a p Bandai kit down the line. Those stickers don’t stick, hence the glue.
@@justagirlwithamustache9618 I don't think I'd recommend Gorilla epoxy because it would adhere to the mold, but model clay could work maybe as long as it's not the kind you have to bake for it to harden. Sculpey wouldn't work I think.
Hey! Super useful video, but I have a question: I tried your method and it worked great after a couple tries but the part I duplicated needs to fit on a very long peg and after boring out the cavity on the duplicate so it'll fit, it's way too loose. What do I need to do to tighten it up so it fits snug?
My attempt to use more epoxy to tighten it wound up sticking almost exclusively to the peg and not the duplicate part so I'm not quite sure what to try next.
Hm, that’s a tricky problem. Yeah I think the easiest way would be to thicken up the peg by adding epoxy to it and sanding down. But if for whatever reason you don’t want to alter the peg, maybe fill the hole and bore a new narrower one in its place?
@@MidnightHatter Thanks for getting back to me!
The latter sounds more like the ideas I've been considering so that might be the way to go. That said, I'm a little concerned about just repeating the same problem over again when I go to bore it back out, lol. (Guess I'll just need to 'git gud'.)
Anyway, thanks again; I think I'll try that or maybe like... one other bad idea I just had. If you're interested I'll let you know what works.
@@MidnightHatter Okay, so I modified this tip from a tutorial on swapping larger parts onto smaller ball joints from Jin Saotome's 'dangerous toys' website from waaaay back- Three words: Hot Glue Gun.
Coat the peg in cooking oil, apply a dollop of hot glue and press the part you want to fit onto it. You might have to try a couple times but if you get it right It'll form a nice snug seal without damaging either piece, and if you're *lucky* the glue will just stick to your duplicate part. Mine didn't but I now have a little rubber sheathe I can stick back on the peg so I dont' think it'll matter in the long run.
That is a great tip! Thanks for sharing. Hot glue is is a staple for hobbies (D&D minis, Gunpla, whatever). And pretty heap too!
This is a lifesaver indeed, I'm starting to step up to making custom parts and duplicates, I'll try this one out. planning to build the duplicate parts of the Shining Break and make a customized suit from it.
Press the blue stuff into a rigid box half lined with mold release before pressing in the part to be duplicated. The rounded blob deforms the relief when you start pushing in on the sides and wiggling the part around. The more supported you can make the blue stuff when it's melted, the better your parts will be copied. Set the blue stuff, press in your part once, and leave it alone; don't try to adjust it.
Going to multiply my moon Gundam
Moon Gundam Mass Production Type
Not sure if you've heard of this, but Apoxie makes a product called "Safety Solvent". I use Apoxie Sculpt for a lot of projects, such as sandbags for FoW, uneven ground on bases, and so on. I've thinned it down almost to consistency of hot glue and have gotten very good results. Details are much better than dry.
Just found this video after watching more than half a dozen (including a few from some very well-known model makers), and yours is the most thorough, from the consistency (Taffy -- something VERY important, that I had to learn from trial & error since the other videos left this detail out). The thinning of the epoxy putty for max detail was a big bonus from your video for me. Much appreciation! 🙏🙏🙏
One thing I'm curious about, which I'll find out in 24 hours -- will thinking the epoxy putty (I'm using Tammy's quick type) result in the duplicate being weaker? Thanks again.
I’m glad it was a help! Thank you for watching! To answer your question, yes the acetone treated parts are more fragile and brittle than not. But I think it’s a small price to pay for more accurate detail.
@@MidnightHatter 🙏👍
Finally, now I can get an alternate head for my Impulse Gundam Lancier without needing to buy another kit. Thanks for the tutorial!
I needed a simple idea like this. I just got The-O and it has SO many cool thrusters and exhaust pieces that are just begging to be used in scratch builds and kitbashing.
Ever try kwikwood epoxy from JB weld, you can buy it at Walmart, it cures in 1 hour, 20 min work time, cost around $4.75, I use it all the time with sculpting, but have never tried it in a mold. Have to get me some of that blue stuff
does it work good?
This stuff is amazing I used it to make copies of the ground gundams shield. It has a learning curve but work excellent!
Awesome method! I'm gonna send your vid to my friend who lost a piece of the inner frame of the arm to his MG Sinanju
oyumaru is most likely polycaprolacton(PCL) it is used in 3d print filament. but if you can't find it it under that name try using thermoplastic it is a collective name for these plastics like PCL. NOTE: before buying read what effect it can have. while most sold thermoplastics are safe there are some that aren't.
Why dont Americans have electric kettles?!! Seems like such a simple yet necessary appliance.
I do! Some Americans just don’t have one lol, they are very useful
Great vid. One question: any idea on the long term effects of dipping your e.p. in acetone? Honestly, if you told me it says to do it right on the package, I wouldn't be surprised. But I know that epoxy putty is a curable plastic based material, so could there be some unwanted effects down the line - specifically structural damage or painting issues. Thanks for such a detailed vid!!
I haven't had issues with painting, but it does make really small parts much more brittle compared to regular Apoxy. That's probably something I ought to have mentioned, but since you can always just make another copy of the original part, it's not a deal breaker for me.
this works with making extra back hand covers because those are really traumatic to lose
For a Gundam weapon like a rifle
Would you say it’s best to leave it in pieces and cast them like they come off the runners? Then glue assemble etc?
Definitely cast in separate parts. You'll get better details and more accurate results.
aight imma Mass Produce Big Zam
Can you duplicate a hollow part with melted rubber plastic
So... how is strong epoxy putty when you use it to duplicate a tiny ball joint?
Omg I need to do this. The plastic that connects parts of the Shia QuanT's sword wing bits are so thin and break too easily so I been wanting replacements.
This man is doing God’s work for poor hobbyists.
now if there's a version of this for metals that is just as easy to work with hahaha
6 yrs later and you helped me out brother !
Can you use the Apoxie Putty for C and B joints molds,
or do you use something else? Thanks.
I need to replace parts C6 and B12 from my Gundam Barbatos MG. The C6 part split and a chunk got stuck in B12. This is very upset in game and a waste of 50 dollars. If you have the time, can you help me out here?
Question, I have a HG Nataku and one of its ear pieces popped off is there any way to make a left ear piece even though I only have the right ear?
Hopefully i can duplicate one of the MG justice's parts with this! I lost one of the parts!
You too??? I lost one of the foot pieces... Did you try this? And if so how did it work???
Astyanax title screen song remix. Nice!
One thing I have to ask: you dunked the epoxy putty in acetone. Won't the oyumaru melt and fuse with the putty?
Thanks! One of my favorite games. Acetone only melts certain types of rigid plastic, the oyumaru is a soft thermoplastic that doesn’t react to acetone (well at least not in such a small dose)
@@MidnightHatter thanks for replying so quickly to an older video. That was a major concern I had when considering this. I'm going to try this. This may seem more economical than buying copies of kits.
How do I duplicate for an opposite side? For example left and right ears etc.
Same situation here
Is it any wing gundam by any chance?
Wouldn't it be even cheaper/easier to melt down and cast old runners?
prolly
Unfortunately not a reality without
1. Pressure temp control of plastic
If you have ever tried melting plastic the issues are mainly controlling temp without burning it. Mainly this plastic hardens at lower than room temp so filling mold properly will be next to impossible.
There are easier and cheaper methods on the long run, but he has it right this will work decent. I suggested using a UV curing resin which is much better viscosity and you control how and when you want it to harden via UV light (sun sucks for this use light).
Don’t use bondic look up Jewelry I’ve curing resin. Good luck boys welcome to add me on FB under “Gunpla Adolph”
@@redsand210 he is talking about using styrene cement and melting gunpla runners.
@@redsand210 why you talkin bout temperature to melt it dude? Just use some tamiya cement, or plastruct. Idk if that'l bond or melt the mold too but I've seen some guy on fb by the name of gunpla caster doing it, I'm not sure what his molds are made of though
@@redsand210 from what I've heard, uv resin won't work in these. 😭 I've been casting missing model parts with uv resin, since it's less toxic than epoxy resin
Can u use the mold then use molten plastic from tamiya cement which was moltening plastic from runners can u use the mold?
Rainheart 13YT That’s a really good question. I haven’t tried it but I would worry that the melted plastic would bond to the mold. I would think the melted runners technique would work better with a silicone mold.
Can I use lacquer thinner to thin down the epoxy putty?
I've never tried it, but I don't see why not.
i want replacements for PC 7 of my barbatos lupus and foot joint (left foot)
Too bad you can't duplicate them
Do you think it will also work for like mechanical parts like a hinge from a foot?
It should! You may need to do more cleaning up after the fact to ensure functionality.
So i can use epoxy resin and hardener in place of epoxy putty right? cuz I'm planning to recast a clear part because I want it in a different color for a custom
Yes you can! I hadn’t tried it at the time of this video, but in this live stream I show off the results of some pour over resin in an oyumaru mold:
th-cam.com/video/KfusFsEPHOE/w-d-xo.html
Should I make an updated video with the new techniques I’ve learned?
Look up light curing resin on amazon for making jewelry! Do not use the cheap ass bondic! Long story short the UV light will cure throughout the transparent mold. In Japan they sell fully clear type but I’ve tested and it cures the same. Again I recommend brand decorRom. There is a Japan brand that’s the best but not good enough for price difference. I found it’s important to try and use this brand (decorRom) because almost all others especially bondic will cause yellowing/sticky to the touch/white frost.
If you need help add me on face book brotha “Gunpla Adolph” is my name on there.
I subbed and like the setup you have looking forward to watching ur other videos man!
Doesn't UV resin heat up while curing under UV? Wouldn't that mush the Oyumaru mold?
Is it possible to make a mold of the rg god gundam core lander hinges and wing attachment parts as one side of mine broke and I cant get the broken part out so I plan on buying this stuff to mold a new part for it
I can’t speak to those specific parts because I don’t have that kit. But as long as it’s an exact copy and not one of those parts that has to be mirrored on the opposite side, it should work
@@MidnightHatter alright thanks
How long to curr the epoxy putty?
Can you try to duplicate parts using runner and sanding? Like for a replacement for a missing vfin
I haven’t done a video on that, but yeah that works nicely for certain parts. Especially extra beam effect parts!
@@MidnightHatter i hope you make that vídeo look Interesting
Would this work with millie put putty 😊
Yes it would!
This . . . is a lifesaver. I have broken so many V-fins (particularly my Mk. II Titans Revive's V-fin) and other parts, and I wanna make spares.
Though I have to wonder if the Oyamaru stuff is available here in the Philippines. Anyway, this is good stuff, dude!
(Teeny nitpick: uhh . . . microphone could be a bit better but eh. Still. Good job.)
Thank you! Yes, I am super clumsy and I break parts all the time. I found this website: shopee.ph/IROPURA-PLASTIC-CLAY-SET-OYUMARU-MOLD-i.7446540.99816865 Does it work? Also, sorry about the audio! I've been trying to get better recording gear. Thanks again and I hope you can find the oyumaru!
didn't you mold a .. halfling character also?
Her daggers broke. :(
Will epoxy glue/ adhesive/ liquid resin stick to the blue stuff?
I honestly haven’t tried it, but I wouldn’t recommend it since epoxy resins and glues get hot while they cure, and that would ruin the mold since the oyumaru reacts to heat.
@@MidnightHatter That's a good point. I'm going to try it anyways. I need to make clear copies of the MG Unicorn's head camera and eye parts. Just Googled how hot resin gets and they say it can reach 400 F when mixed in large amounts. Hopefully it works with these small parts.
@@KevinLam86 Hey, how did the epoxy glue/liquid resin work out?
@@GMMesmerize Terrible. lol The epoxy didn't seem to have cured well/ hard enough to do anything with it. I think when I squeezed the the syringe it didn't come out in equal parts so that's probably why.
@@KevinLam86 okay. I'm gonna use hardware epoxy putty from home depot, and also acetone melted runners/spruces. Some parts will be high stress joint parts, and I need it to be strong, less concern on detail
Could you duplicate the gatling gun?
Dunno if you will see this but does this work with a hg jegan visor?
Couse i am going to be getting the stark jegan soon and i want to have both of the heads with visors so that i can let the regular stark jegan head on the kit and gonna be giving the other one to some other kit.
I don't know exactly which visor you're copying, but if it's the part I'm thinking of it should work fine. With a part that small though you may need to do a fair bit of touching up and sanding afterward just so it fits well.
@@MidnightHatter thanks alot for answering! Gonna try do this when my stark jegan arrives.
im thinking on buying this from amazon. so i want to cast 1/24 or 5 scale guns (pistols, assault rifles) and maybe make a diorama. will this make a good mold for them? (i like to make 1/24 scale cars so that is why 1/24 scale) i live in finland so i dont know where to get the "resin" for this, but that wont propably be a problem.
That should work fine. Probably even better than on Gundam parts honestly. There's another video on TH-cam showing weapons like that: th-cam.com/video/9VMIaqw5WKQ/w-d-xo.html
Midnight Hatter Alright, thanks :)
I mean this would be good for making multiple copies of the torso for my astray red frame high grade to finish out my successor series.
during the original battle for orb A M1 pilot, His unit was damaged And he took the arms from a fallen 105 strike dagger And the legs from A CGUE alongside the wings. And the pilot of the gold frame and the red frame saw the success of the unit And decided to help him build a proper gundam level unit, using replica parts from the red frame and the production facility controlled by the pilot of the gold frame the 1st unit of the guidance gundams was finished. Right before the battle of is battle of Genesis. And during the time skip between seed and destiny The pilot of the guidance Alongside the pilot of the gold frame built 5 more units. Each one having different arms and legs and weapon functionality, But the only thing similar about them was the torso section the base concept for the head And the fact that all of them had freedom Style hip railguns And stolen technology and information Of Is the n jammer and n jammer canceler, To allow all 6 of the units to be nuclear powered, Including the original prototype built off a damaged M1, And the technology of the energy Shields from the Hyperion gundam Mounted into the back of the hands just like the destiny gundam. And so the guidance gundam, the heavens guidance gundam, The chaotic guidance gundam, The gaias guidance gundam, the fates guidance gundam and the Cataclysmic guidance Gundam were born. All having variable phase shift armor, nuclear power, energy Shields, hip rail guns, each with their own signature arms legs weapons and backpacks but like the strike series all backpacks are interchangeable and can also be fitted onto the original astray units, civilian astray units, the astray out frame and the Testament gundam. Helping in the battles for orb and alongside the archangel in its battles athe the other ships of the 3 ships alliance.
How durably is the putty once it is dried?
Not gonna lie, the putty is much more brittle after thinning it than using green stuff or straight up putty, but it’s a trade off for better details.
can i make hip joints using epoxy putty ?
Honestly, I haven't tried. The finished product is sort of dry and brittle though, so I think you're probably better off with green stuff if it's a ball joint or anything you want snug.
How long does it take for these to cool down?
Not long at all. 10-15 minutes? Shorter if you throw it in the freezer while you wait.
thanks for sharing mate! btw you sound like lucifer morningstar and I love it :D
Gemar Batol Thanks!
how long have you left all of molds??. thanks
Overnight. About 8 hours, just to be 100% sure.
How durable is the duplicate? It could be the epoxy I'm using but it turned out brittle.
Mine were pretty brittle too
@@MidnightHatter It's the epoxy then. I'm using a new one and its scary durable (hurt my fingers trying to break it). Different set of problems though.
A and B are both pastes instead of putty so you can't mix by hand and I always have to use a "sacrificial surface" to mix on. More importantly it causes air bubbles and I don't know how to fix that.
@@markongchangco1537 hold a lighter over the top of the resin and it should draw out the air
I think you mean't Bain Marie not Sous Vide!
question: is it ok to duplicate parts that have stickers glued on to them or not?
I can't say 100%, because it depends on the type/placement of the sticker, but it shouldn't be a problem. The oyumaru isn't sticky at all, it just bonds to itself.
Midnight Hatter appreciate the response . I am planning duplicate a backpack part of a p Bandai kit down the line. Those stickers don’t stick, hence the glue.
@@MidnightHatter i got a question should i use gorrila epoxy its like resin but super strong its like 4.99 and is model clay recommend ?
@@justagirlwithamustache9618 I don't think I'd recommend Gorilla epoxy because it would adhere to the mold, but model clay could work maybe as long as it's not the kind you have to bake for it to harden. Sculpey wouldn't work I think.
@@MidnightHatter i brought the blue stuff for 2.50 in ebay would mess up the mold if i use gorrila
Helpful
why dont americans own kettles it baffles me drive 5 minutes into canada and you will be tripping over all of the kettles
microwave? why would you use a microwave to heat up water? use a kettle, that is literally what they made for
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