John and Glenn... Thanks for all you're fine instruction! John, I'm using Aqua-Coat with an added water based tint. I also use all wood binding and trim which adds additional labor masking everything off. I do have two questions... 1. What's the significance of the pencil taped to the wall? 2. Is Becks required to get good results??? :) Thanks again John, you've taught me a lot!
thanks for the kind words , The pencil was taped on the wall by a friend. I always loose them so I will always have one ready. It is more of a joke but Ralph Gotowetski used to help and is a good friend. I think he had about a dozen taped at one time I had to save the lost one. On the becks , personally I have never used that particular brand but I don't think 2 coats won't hurt. It is all about the prep. Remember it isn't so much as to what you put on but what you leave on.
You will notice around 19:50 there is a slight reflection as the filler starts to set and level. That is what you want to see as you start working the filler in.
Glenn had moved to Florida and he has some videos he is processing. We will be making more and doing some updates . It has been a while. Thanks for all the positive feedback.
I stopped using shellac a few years ago. I use the sealer that the finish manufacture recommends. I find that it is not just about what you do but the chemical compatibility is important for adhesion.
When pore filling with super glue put a small fan to blow the fumes away from you. Don't sand too aggressively. Or you'll pull it out of the pores or you'll open new pores.
Understood, John, I have used epoxy underfrench polish Ok in the past. I'll maybe try CA on some scrap, but it sounds like it may be no good. I used Robbie O'brien's approaches before, which is dust, dry wall or zpoxy. Just interested to try something different. Thanks again for this and for all your many informative posts.
there is no reason to use CA on maple it may cause finish issues I don't use CA for filling or sealing as I have seen that cause issues down the road. Maple won't need to be filled you can seal and finish right on top.
it depends on what your doing and how your doing it. The key is to build up a finish so you can sand it level and buff and polish. Nitro lacquer is my finish of choice I layout about 8 coats buiild to .016 of an inch allow 2 weeks cure than start level sanding buffin and polish
Thanks John and Glenn. Always good info and interesting videos. Bill
Great to see you back John, and co. Can't wait for more episodes! Cheers from Rob in England....
Thank you John, another awesome lesson !😊👍
How is that not discoloring the maple body binding?
Waiting for more videos! Cheers and happy 2020!
We shot a ton of video a few weeks ago - in process of editing. You will start seeing new vids posted in the next several weeks,
Hey John, Nice too see a vid from uiu its been quite a while, You are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks?
Sorry, John, I realised what I just wrote was amibiguous! I meant it would be no good to try and french polish over a CA pore fill. Correct? Cheers
John and Glenn... Thanks for all you're fine instruction! John, I'm using Aqua-Coat with an added water based tint. I also use all wood binding and trim which adds additional labor masking everything off. I do have two questions... 1. What's the significance of the pencil taped to the wall? 2. Is Becks required to get good results??? :) Thanks again John, you've taught me a lot!
thanks for the kind words , The pencil was taped on the wall by a friend. I always loose them so I will always have one ready. It is more of a joke but Ralph Gotowetski used to help and is a good friend. I think he had about a dozen taped at one time I had to save the lost one. On the becks , personally I have never used that particular brand but I don't think 2 coats won't hurt. It is all about the prep. Remember it isn't so much as to what you put on but what you leave on.
Yuengling or Becks...they both work real well! Good stuff John, Thanks.
You will notice around 19:50 there is a slight reflection as the filler starts to set and level. That is what you want to see as you start working the filler in.
yes
Glenn had moved to Florida and he has some videos he is processing. We will be making more and doing some updates . It has been a while. Thanks for all the positive feedback.
If you presand to 150 is there a downside? I think filler works best on 150.
Thank you, John. Really informative. Do you use shellac as the seal coat under the CA fill?
I stopped using shellac a few years ago. I use the sealer that the finish manufacture recommends. I find that it is not just about what you do but the chemical compatibility is important for adhesion.
You're back man! 😃
When pore filling with super glue put a small fan to blow the fumes away from you. Don't sand too aggressively. Or you'll pull it out of the pores or you'll open new pores.
Greetings, What type of sealer is recommended?
use what your finish manufacture recommends. I use mohawk products vinyl sealer
Oh. OK, John. I was planning on a french polish after the pore fill. CA would be no good for that, then?
if you are doing old school you can use egg white and dust as the filler.
Understood, John, I have used epoxy underfrench polish Ok in the past. I'll maybe try CA on some scrap, but it sounds like it may be no good. I used Robbie O'brien's approaches before, which is dust, dry wall or zpoxy. Just interested to try something different. Thanks again for this and for all your many informative posts.
Robert - FP over CA will work. Just scuff the CA coat nicely before starting the shellac coats.
Do you find the sg method work better for pop in figured maple?
there is no reason to use CA on maple it may cause finish issues I don't use CA for filling or sealing as I have seen that cause issues down the road. Maple won't need to be filled you can seal and finish right on top.
What’s goin on fellas. Been too long! Love from Grand Rapids, mi.
Been busy Glenn has some video he is processing and we will soon have some more
How many times do you spray the finish and what kind
it depends on what your doing and how your doing it. The key is to build up a finish so you can sand it level and buff and polish. Nitro lacquer is my finish of choice I layout about 8 coats buiild to .016 of an inch allow 2 weeks cure than start level sanding buffin and polish
@@tippie53 I thank you very much, you are great and I love your most informative guitar tips!
thank you
Eu faço essa selagem da Madeira usando cola animal, essa que é diluida em banho maria, uso ela bem líquida, não muito.
That wooden stick is noisy!!!!
Not impressed