This video has multiple issues that are not correct and could cause serious injury to someone if try it. Never open high side when charging system. You do not open the valves on the manifold set to get readings. That opens the pressurized lines open to the charge hose.
I thought it was radiator all along (it looks the same, really). I only learned that it is a condenser after I accidentally let open the high pressure valve (I even inhaled it intentionally to identify the nature of the vapor's odor.) 🤣😂 Of course my head got too big to handle things I thought I could, but the way the system is designed/assembled in most cars, really doesn't differentiate it from other valves/pipes, which are relatively less risky)
@@TMG_Shaggy I noticed that you opened the high charge when you were charging. Is that correct? From my understanding it should not be opened, only too measure pressure and vacuum, like Dave Kochis mentioned
How about never touch the high side while charging or while the system is running .. while charging your high side will be like 150 ish psi.. while the A/C is running your looking at like 300-350 psi.. enough to take an eye out . I’ve seen eyes get messed up with the system off and just sitting because someone thought it’s a good idea to blurp the Schrader valve to see if it had freon
@@TMG_Shaggy your half right and half wrong . Charging through either side is sufficient if using an actual A/C machine . It actually gives you an option to charge via low high or both . Also just depends if you have a office tube or EV system but you can charge both ways . It’s harder to charge with a can with the A/c running because then it would be impossible
Couple big mistakes was done while recharging the system. #1 the yellow hose is connected backward. The valve should be toward the gauge, not the pump. #2 you shouldn't be using the low and high to recharge the system. only the low side is used to recharge the system. #3 you didn't properly vacuum the system. The system should be vacuumed for 45mins. #4 you should let the system hold vacuum for 30mins to an hour just to see how small or big is the leak.
#2 is is wrong by all means , you usually need to use the high pressure valve so to make sure ur compressor works fine and not suffocating. look into it more🙂
Hi, Thank you so much for your instructional video is very informative. But is one think that I need to know how many drops of dye I supposed to put in the system. Thank you.
Those air compressor vacuum pumps don't pull a low enough vacuum for AC evacuation. Another tip, make sure to store those UV dye bottles upright. The caps don't really seal them well enough and the dye will eventually leak and get everywhere. You won't see it in daylight, but you'll get it all over the service ports when you're setting up the hoses and then it'll be way harder to find the leak since you won't be able to tell if the dye came from the leak or your hands.
I use to have a glass container with in and out 1/4 inch fittings. It is used to add oil, die or whatever to a freon system. What is it called? I can't find mine and want to buy another one.
I would recommend anyone watching this video to disregard and move on. There are other videos out there from people that know how to perform this procedure correctly.
Caution: Nearly everything shown in this video is wrong. If you want to know how to service AC correctly check this channel: Tom Lech / LECH AIR CONDITIONING
All cars leak a little bit through the compressor. That's how they are designed. This is so the seals on it are lubed. Usually the refrigerant will last 3 to 4 years before needing a recharge.
@@AzanAli- wrong, vehicles should not leak at all. A good ac system will last years without needing a charge, until a part fails. At which time needs replaced. Then the system needs vacuumed first properly, before recharging.
When adding at start with vacuumed pipes will compressor turn on? I thought the pressure sensors won't allow it to until enough gas is in the pipes to build up pressure?
When there’s a vacuum there’s no pressure so the compressor will not engage. By putting dye into the tube before you start adding refrigerant,the dye is put into the system as refrigerant pressure is added. Once the pressure is adequate the sensor will allow the compressor to turn on. I hope this answers your question
The compressor will not run until you have about 10-20 psi in the system enough to trigger the pressure switch. So when you evacuate and vacuum down a system . You have to put some Freon in before it will kick on. Which will be done by hooking up your Freon bottle, purging the air from your gauge set with Freon and opening the valves on your quick connects and opening the freon tank or canister. The vacuum on the A/C system will pull Freon in until it hits positive pressure and then the pressure inside the freon tank or can will push the freon into the system until the two equalize in pressure then you will use the compressor to pull in the rest from the suction side. The compressor will kick on way before the can and system equalize pressures I just always let it equalize so I know there is anough freon in the system so you don’t run the compressor dry while it pulls in the rear of the Freon. If using a gauge set let the vacuumed system pull the freon in the high and low side first then close the high side turn the compressor on the let it pull the rest in
If the system is full, you can certainly try using a can with dye added, hooked up to the yellow line, run the A/C. ... however it may not accept any more and you risk over charge. There exists tools to inject with. Just today I saw at autozone, a couple tools, including one for about $15 that will inject dye.
Dude, you literally just opened both the high and low side to atmosphere thru the charging hose when you opened both valves and then expected to see the gauge work??? WTF, you have ABSOLUTELY no clue what you are doing and therefore should not be showing ANYONE ANYTHING.
They make a can of R134a with dye in it and a single hose to put it in, but without the dual gauges you could overpressurize the A/C system. People run the car with the A/C on high while putting it in and stop shortly after it blows cold. You really want to run a vacuum pump on the system if it is a valuable car to avoid moisture. You can find a good one on eBay for $70 if you don’t have a compressor for the $25 one
At 2:10 when you poured the dye, how did you get the dye into the hose? Do I have to then press the schrader valve on the hose? How much dye do I need to pour?
He just pressed a small amount on the schrader valve and then attached the R134a before puncturing and pressurizing. Some dyes might not be concentrate enough for that amount. Also place a rag over the valves to avoid getting dye all over.
good video though Id offer it would be better to put the dye in the end of the line that does not have a needle valve you are essentially trying to ad it to a tire through the valve stem lol. judging by the hands Id guess you are still younger have all your fingers n few scars lol overall helpful video cheers
This video has multiple issues that are not correct and could cause serious injury to someone if try it. Never open high side when charging system. You do not open the valves on the manifold set to get readings. That opens the pressurized lines open to the charge hose.
I thought it was radiator all along (it looks the same, really).
I only learned that it is a condenser after I accidentally let open the high pressure valve (I even inhaled it intentionally to identify the nature of the vapor's odor.) 🤣😂
Of course my head got too big to handle things I thought I could, but the way the system is designed/assembled in most cars, really doesn't differentiate it from other valves/pipes, which are relatively less risky)
I knew i wasnt the only one thinking that
NEVER OPEN HIGH SIDE WHILE CHARGING,.
YES. Don't do that. The high side is never used to charge. Other than that, good vid
@@TMG_Shaggy I noticed that you opened the high charge when you were charging. Is that correct? From my understanding it should not be opened, only too measure pressure and vacuum, like Dave Kochis mentioned
How about never touch the high side while charging or while the system is running .. while charging your high side will be like 150 ish psi.. while the A/C is running your looking at like 300-350 psi.. enough to take an eye out . I’ve seen eyes get messed up with the system off and just sitting because someone thought it’s a good idea to blurp the Schrader valve to see if it had freon
@@TMG_Shaggy your half right and half wrong . Charging through either side is sufficient if using an actual A/C machine . It actually gives you an option to charge via low high or both . Also just depends if you have a office tube or EV system but you can charge both ways . It’s harder to charge with a can with the A/c running because then it would be impossible
NEVER charge on the high side.
Couple big mistakes was done while recharging the system.
#1 the yellow hose is connected backward. The valve should be toward the gauge, not the pump.
#2 you shouldn't be using the low and high to recharge the system. only the low side is used to recharge the system.
#3 you didn't properly vacuum the system. The system should be vacuumed for 45mins.
#4 you should let the system hold vacuum for 30mins to an hour just to see how small or big is the leak.
Leave your system under vacuum then add your refrigerant to the high side and then
Easy it in on the low side with the engine running
#2 is is wrong by all means , you usually need to use the high pressure valve so to make sure ur compressor works fine and not suffocating. look into it more🙂
I heard the same thing as # 2, that you should never open the high/red side during charging, but only during vacuuming. hmm...
@@vinny1995 That's correct, only charge through the low side port. When you're pulling a vacuum on the system, then you can use both both ports.
Hi, Thank you so much for your instructional video is very informative. But is one think that I need to know how many drops of dye I supposed to put in the system. Thank you.
Those air compressor vacuum pumps don't pull a low enough vacuum for AC evacuation.
Another tip, make sure to store those UV dye bottles upright. The caps don't really seal them well enough and the dye will eventually leak and get everywhere. You won't see it in daylight, but you'll get it all over the service ports when you're setting up the hoses and then it'll be way harder to find the leak since you won't be able to tell if the dye came from the leak or your hands.
I use to have a glass container with in and out 1/4 inch fittings. It is used to add oil, die or whatever to a freon system. What is it called? I can't find mine and want to buy another one.
I would recommend anyone watching this video to disregard and move on. There are other videos out there from people that know how to perform this procedure correctly.
Provide a link.
Great video! Thanks for making it!
well i suppose buying the 8 oz bottle makes no sense to me anymore.. or an injector put a ton in but is it necessary i might put a bunch of dye in
Caution: Nearly everything shown in this video is wrong. If you want to know how to service AC correctly check this channel: Tom Lech / LECH AIR CONDITIONING
I know this video just showing things but one does wonder if there's no leaks, how the refrigerant left the system in the first place.
All cars leak a little bit through the compressor. That's how they are designed. This is so the seals on it are lubed. Usually the refrigerant will last 3 to 4 years before needing a recharge.
@@AzanAli- wrong, vehicles should not leak at all. A good ac system will last years without needing a charge, until a part fails. At which time needs replaced. Then the system needs vacuumed first properly, before recharging.
When adding at start with vacuumed pipes will compressor turn on? I thought the pressure sensors won't allow it to until enough gas is in the pipes to build up pressure?
When there’s a vacuum there’s no pressure so the compressor will not engage. By putting dye into the tube before you start adding refrigerant,the dye is put into the system as refrigerant pressure is added. Once the pressure is adequate the sensor will allow the compressor to turn on. I hope this answers your question
The compressor will not run until you have about 10-20 psi in the system enough to trigger the pressure switch. So when you evacuate and vacuum down a system . You have to put some Freon in before it will kick on. Which will be done by hooking up your Freon bottle, purging the air from your gauge set with Freon and opening the valves on your quick connects and opening the freon tank or canister. The vacuum on the A/C system will pull Freon in until it hits positive pressure and then the pressure inside the freon tank or can will push the freon into the system until the two equalize in pressure then you will use the compressor to pull in the rest from the suction side. The compressor will kick on way before the can and system equalize pressures I just always let it equalize so I know there is anough freon in the system so you don’t run the compressor dry while it pulls in the rear of the Freon. If using a gauge set let the vacuumed system pull the freon in the high and low side first then close the high side turn the compressor on the let it pull the rest in
About how much dye did you use ?
A teaspoon of dye is enough for 5 cars. Or you can buy Freon with dye already in it at any auto part store
What would you do if the system is already full but wanted to add uv oil. I'm guessing go ahead and add a bit of refrigerant for a few seconds anyway?
If the system is full, you can certainly try using a can with dye added, hooked up to the yellow line, run the A/C. ... however it may not accept any more and you risk over charge. There exists tools to inject with. Just today I saw at autozone, a couple tools, including one for about $15 that will inject dye.
Dude, you literally just opened both the high and low side to atmosphere thru the charging hose when you opened both valves and then expected to see the gauge work??? WTF, you have ABSOLUTELY no clue what you are doing and therefore should not be showing ANYONE ANYTHING.
Right. Gauges work regardless. The dials are for opening into the yellow cable.
Do you need the gauges to check where the leak is
They make a can of R134a with dye in it and a single hose to put it in, but without the dual gauges you could overpressurize the A/C system. People run the car with the A/C on high while putting it in and stop shortly after it blows cold. You really want to run a vacuum pump on the system if it is a valuable car to avoid moisture. You can find a good one on eBay for $70 if you don’t have a compressor for the $25 one
At 2:10 when you poured the dye, how did you get the dye into the hose? Do I have to then press the schrader valve on the hose? How much dye do I need to pour?
He just pressed a small amount on the schrader valve and then attached the R134a before puncturing and pressurizing. Some dyes might not be concentrate enough for that amount. Also place a rag over the valves to avoid getting dye all over.
@@jrowe9301 thanks
That is not a Schrader valve in the yellow hose. It is a depressor. A depressor opens a Schrader valve when it comes in contact with it.
If that how pag oil is added also?
I added 3 oz to the compressor and 5 oz to the drier. This was on a 96 Roadmaster.
good video though Id offer it would be better to put the dye in the end of the line that does not have a needle valve you are essentially trying to ad it to a tire through the valve stem lol. judging by the hands Id guess you are still younger have all your fingers n few scars lol overall helpful video cheers
How many microns does that bad boy pull?😂
So many things wrong here😂
NEVER OPEN HIGH SIDE WHILE CHARGING
7
Another "How Not To" video.
Cool vid ,I'm about to do the same thing. I noticed you had bells going, Do I need bells playing when I do mine too ? Lol
He made a few mistakes so make sure you watch another video do not open the high side when you recharging