I always stitch out the design first on a scrap piece of fabric and cut around it to use as a visual on the actual shirt I'm going to embroider. This really helps me.
As always, I enjoy your videos. I was a little lost on the measurements, but I see how it all came together once you started the embroidery portion. Great tip on using the Tide Pen!
Thanks so much for your videos Romero. If you were embroidering a left chest logo with small lettering on a stretchy polo shirt (95% poly & 5% elastane) would you use the next size hoop up to reduce stretching and perhaps a smaller needle (65/9) ? (I don’t have a mighty hoop)
Thank you for the comment. For small designs or text I would use the closest hoop size. Use a smaller needle if it looks too bunched up, you might have to do sample comparison. Sometimes it isn’t necessary.
I thought all projects needed to have the (+) in the “center” of hoop. I’m just watching your video on hooping polo shirts. In this video the (+) looks like it’s in the upper part of hoop. I’m struggling with this…I have the camera on machine as well as those snowman markers, doesn’t seem to matter, am I wrong to think that the (+) marking doesn’t have to be the in the center of the hoops??
Hello, if your design perfectly fits your hoop (size wise) then yes, you need to be spot on centered. If your design is smaller and has room to shift, then you can move the center around. Thats why it’s important to trace your designs before hitting start.
I did my measurements on medium polo 7 1/2" down from the corner of polo and 4 inches horizontal using chalk. Put it on hoop master letter E22 but doesn't look centered.
Shirts can have different measurements, depending on brand, style and size. You can print out your design and mark the center according to the design. I use the embroidery helper from Amazon to help us mark our center points.
Thank you so much Romero for sharing I really need to learn that. Is that performance cut away different from the normal embroidery cut away stabilizer? All the best.
@@RomeroThreads Just wanted to mention to others. Yes, that’s correct to center foot and press start but make sure your logo is center on the Y & X axis in your digitizing, for your method to work.
Do you recommend to use the performance stabilizer on jersey's because of the thin material? I was going to use one sheet of no show mesh and one sheet of cut away.
I do use 2 pieces of performance cut away. One piece of no show and one piece of cut away can work depending how many stitches the design is. We also add tender touch in the back, it helps keep the design in place also.
Do you increase size of logos for polos that are larger? For instance I'm working on polo shirts from xs to 6xl. Do you have a video on this? Thank you
I would maybe start increasing the logos once I hit 3XL. Nothing too big, just a small subtle change. Also making sure it doesn't affect the digitizing.
@@RomeroThreads Was this a ball point needle in the video? Kind of confused as to how you would make the choice to use standard or ball point. Some places say even t shirts are considered knits.
Really, standard or ball point (ffg or fg) kind of fall in the same area. Sharp point I would not use on polos. I can use both standard or ballpoint. Some polo shirts are thinner than others, the choice can come down to preference.
Thanks so much for great videos and tips. If I'm using a unisex polo but a woman would be wearing it, should I use the same setting on the Mighty hoop board? I did a sample of left chest logo (4"X4") on small Hanes and I used #11 though instead of recommended 15 or 19. Do you recommend I drop it down to at least to #15?
What I do, I make a center mark where I want my logo at, then I adjust the hoop to go over the center. I don't focus too much on the number because with different sizes and different brands it can change.
Thanks for a very informative video! The cutaway backing you’re using, can it be used on onesies? Also, can you sometime show us how you finish your garments? By that I mean, your finishing touches so that it looks good both inside and outside when presenting to your customer. Thank you!
Yea it goes above the line. Im showing the straight line before its shut. After a couple shirts of practice you don't need the lines anymore. When its shut, I am following the top to bottom line.
Hello, I like to work with Port Authority PA Rapid Dry Polo K455. Anything priced above that is good also. And the best are Adidas, Nike and all the name brand, they just have a higher price.
Hello, on the description of the cut away its not labeled as no show. But these have been my favorite for very thin golf shirts and normal polo shirts. They are a thin mesh material also.
BEAUTIFUL! BEAUTIFUL! BEAUTIFUL!
Thank you! 🙏🏽
Thanks!
I watched a lot of your videos. What are the best stabilizers and needles to use for stretchy t-shirts?
Love your vids. I’ve learned so much! A small tip for you: try Frixion pens for light colored garments. The ink turns white with heat.
Thanks for the comment. Ive used Dritz water soluble pens forever, the best of the best, never had any problems.
I like making generic patches in different sizes and use them as reference when I'm hopping
I always stitch out the design first on a scrap piece of fabric and cut around it to use as a visual on the actual shirt I'm going to embroider. This really helps me.
Great video. Thanks for the tip about the tide pin!!
Wow. Looks so good.
As always, I enjoy your videos. I was a little lost on the measurements, but I see how it all came together once you started the embroidery portion. Great tip on using the Tide Pen!
Loving your videos! That’s for the great details!
Thank you, for helping us out with your knowledge.
Another great video! Thank you!
Thanks for the video much appreciative
We’re do get the Embroiderers helper looking for the bigger helper one because I am sewing badges on garments
Thanks so much for your videos Romero. If you were embroidering a left chest logo with small lettering on a stretchy polo shirt (95% poly & 5% elastane) would you use the next size hoop up to reduce stretching and perhaps a smaller needle (65/9) ? (I don’t have a mighty hoop)
Thank you for the comment. For small designs or text I would use the closest hoop size. Use a smaller needle if it looks too bunched up, you might have to do sample comparison. Sometimes it isn’t necessary.
Thanks so much for the reply! I really appreciate it !
I thought all projects needed to have the (+) in the “center” of hoop. I’m just watching your video on hooping polo shirts. In this video the (+) looks like it’s in the upper part of hoop. I’m struggling with this…I have the camera on machine as well as those snowman markers, doesn’t seem to matter, am I wrong to think that the (+) marking doesn’t have to be the in the center of the hoops??
Hello, if your design perfectly fits your hoop (size wise) then yes, you need to be spot on centered. If your design is smaller and has room to shift, then you can move the center around. Thats why it’s important to trace your designs before hitting start.
I did my measurements on medium polo 7 1/2" down from the corner of polo and 4 inches horizontal using chalk.
Put it on hoop master letter E22 but doesn't look centered.
Shirts can have different measurements, depending on brand, style and size. You can print out your design and mark the center according to the design. I use the embroidery helper from Amazon to help us mark our center points.
Thank u for a great video and tutorial!
Thank you so much Romero for sharing I really need to learn that. Is that performance cut away different from the normal embroidery cut away stabilizer? All the best.
Sir,
You have cross hairs on the shirt, how do you get the center of you logo to finish there.
Thanks in advance
I center it on the machine using the arrows. Once the needle is set in the center, I push start.
@@RomeroThreads
I tried that but it moves about 1” at starting
@@RomeroThreads Just wanted to mention to others. Yes, that’s correct to center foot and press start but make sure your logo is center on the Y & X axis in your digitizing, for your method to work.
Love this video! Thank you!
Do you recommend to use the performance stabilizer on jersey's because of the thin material? I was going to use one sheet of no show mesh and one sheet of cut away.
I do use 2 pieces of performance cut away. One piece of no show and one piece of cut away can work depending how many stitches the design is. We also add tender touch in the back, it helps keep the design in place also.
@@RomeroThreads thank you!
Do you increase size of logos for polos that are larger? For instance I'm working on polo shirts from xs to 6xl. Do you have a video on this? Thank you
I would maybe start increasing the logos once I hit 3XL. Nothing too big, just a small subtle change. Also making sure it doesn't affect the digitizing.
@@RomeroThreads ok thank you
how to measure honeycomb collar t shirt 4xl
Good video thanks
Can you help me with the following?
How long is the enbroiderer's helper.
from the top of the curve to the bottom?
Thank you soo much for these great videos! Do you ever use a ballpoint needle for the polos? If so when?
Yes, I use 70/10 ball point needles with 40 weight thread or shift to 60 weight thread for fine details.
@@RomeroThreads Was this a ball point needle in the video? Kind of confused as to how you would make the choice to use standard or ball point. Some places say even
t shirts are considered knits.
Really, standard or ball point (ffg or fg) kind of fall in the same area. Sharp point I would not use on polos. I can use both standard or ballpoint. Some polo shirts are thinner than others, the choice can come down to preference.
@@RomeroThreads AWESOME! Thank you sir! I sure do appreciate your replies.
Hi Ro! Thanks for your videos, I'm learning a lot. For the polos type of xpandex like jerseys, do you recommend ballpoint needles as well?
Thanks so much for great videos and tips. If I'm using a unisex polo but a woman would be wearing it, should I use the same setting on the Mighty hoop board? I did a sample of left chest logo (4"X4") on small Hanes and I used #11 though instead of recommended 15 or 19. Do you recommend I drop it down to at least to #15?
What I do, I make a center mark where I want my logo at, then I adjust the hoop to go over the center. I don't focus too much on the number because with different sizes and different brands it can change.
@@RomeroThreads Thank you
What is that style of the Polo shirts?
I was trying the hoop station with 5.5 hoop and it pop out of that station. Where did I do wrong?
It shouldn’t pop off. The magnets clamps on quick. I think its probably getting caught with something, maybe the blue tab on top of the station.
I use Port Authority 60/40 blend.
Buen día en dónde la puedo comprar???
Soy de México
What size did you choose for the hoop because i can not get anything to line up with this hoop on the EM1010
I use the 5.5 hoop and make sure my center point is in between.
What the design size on tshirt?
Do you mark each shirt or do you just mark the first one to get it set up for the order?
Yes I do.
Thanks for a very informative video! The cutaway backing you’re using, can it be used on onesies? Also, can you sometime show us how you finish your garments? By that I mean, your finishing touches so that it looks good both inside and outside when presenting to your customer. Thank you!
Yes absolutely, I can show a finished onesie, great idea. And yes, you can use that same performance cut away on a onesie.
Great stuff!!!🌟👌🏻🙏👍🏻
When it snapped shut, why did it look like it was at least 1cm above the horizontal marking?
Yea it goes above the line. Im showing the straight line before its shut. After a couple shirts of practice you don't need the lines anymore. When its shut, I am following the top to bottom line.
@@RomeroThreads cheers
Was your 65/9 needle a sharp or ball point?
Ball point
I need to kno how wat number do I put the board on different size shirts??????👕
For polos, I use 28 for XL, 23 for L and 19 for S/M. Try those out.
@@RomeroThreads thanks ima try those
F19 for s/m?
I have a Ricoma and just received my mighty hoop. Can you tell me what hoop size preset to use for the 5.5? Thank you.
I use hoop C for the 5.5 mighty hoops. Always trace to be sure you're good.
@@RomeroThreads Thank you!
What polo shirts do you like working with ? I want to place an order but dont want to get cheap ones ??
Thanks ! Enjoying the videos !
Hello, I like to work with Port Authority PA Rapid Dry Polo K455. Anything priced above that is good also. And the best are Adidas, Nike and all the name brand, they just have a higher price.
if you want to place your order then we are here for you even you can visit our website also dynamicdezign.com/blog/
What needles do you use for these polos?
75/11 ball point
@RomeroThreads thank you for your response is it FFG/SES?
@RudeDude563 yes FFG
What is the stabilizer called?
Performance 200 cutaway
allstitch.com/products/prostitch-200-performance-shirt-cut-away-embroidery-backing-precut-sheets-white
@@RomeroThreads thanks
Is your stabilizer for this polo no show mesh?
Hello, on the description of the cut away its not labeled as no show. But these have been my favorite for very thin golf shirts and normal polo shirts. They are a thin mesh material also.
Hello, what model polo shirts are you using?
Port Authority K455
What is the name of the stabilizer you are using?
Hello, the cut away backing details is in the description.its a performance cut away from All Stitch.
i embroidered the back of the shirt to the front lol
theres no place on their website to put your referral code
For Mighty Hoop orders, you have to call them directly. I put the number and info in the description. They'll take care of you when you call. Thanks.
Hi! Can you tell me your logo size? 😬
2.5 inches high
2.5 inches in diameter
Okay?