So, what you're trying to say is, "Don't shellac your sack. Elmer's has enough tack to hold back your sack, and to talc your sack to lack the crack from coming back." Just having some fun. Informative video.
I have never held a pen of that age but just seeing it being taken apart and restored has been very interesting and enjoyable, Thank You very much for taking the time to make this video.
Thank you so much for making this video for all of us pen lovers and old pens especially. Very generous of you to share this valuable information. Looking forward to restoring my collection of old pens now. Have been waiting for this info for some time.
Excellent - step-by-step for FP restoration. I feel confident that, with the proper tools and materials, I can start restoring my (tiny) collection of vintage FPs - thank you!
Thanks for a great video! I have my dad's 1946 Eversharp Skyline pen and his early 1950's Wearever Pennant pen and you have inspired me to try restoring them. (At least I'll get them cleaned up). Thanks for the inspiration!
Hello. It was my grandfather's pen. Thanks for the advice about going slowly. I will start with the Osmiroids and get some practice before maybe approaching the Conway Stewart.
Thank you very much for the video. Loved every minute of it. You're right, its pretty long a video. But all good things come in time :) Please keep restoring and sharing your videos. Channel Subscribed. Also, those links that you provided, helped a lot. Thanks once again :)
Thanks!!! I got my first real fountain pens and one the inside was a mess but I think I can fix it after watching this in pretty handy. Glad I didn't spend too much. 1930s. Not as fancy as yours but I like them so that's all that matters
I bought a parts pen on eBay so I could learn to repair vintage fountain pens. It is missing the top jewel and clip. I have looked online and can't find them anywhere. The pen was listed "unbranded" I do not have the pen yet but would like to find a jewel and clip. Do you know where I can find them?
Something that I'm about to tackle (as soon as all the supplies arrive.) Not hugely difficult, but replacing the ink sac in an Esterbrook LJ and Osmiroid 65 (the only thing that either one needs.) Very informative and useful video! Thanks!
Elmer's glue! Nice to know I don't need to shell out for shellac that I wouldn't use for anything else. I've never restored a pen, but I've got an old Sheaffer touchdown desk pen that would seem to just need a new sac and o-ring to be in working order
Thank you very much for opening a possible new hobby for me. I tried my hand at pocket watch restoration but found that the fine precision work (under magnification) was a bit beyond my manual dexterity. It looks like it would be more my speed.
BTW if anyone is wondering what that Rubber "thing" is that he's using from Radio Shack. It's a simple Desoldering Bulb. You can buy them on Amazon and just remove the white tip. www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Soldering-Irons-Electronix-Express/dp/B00EO4GN1I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1532609363&sr=8-9&keywords=Desoldering+Bulb
just found your channel!!! really great to see you restoring the mighty past in the form of the mighty pen!! Any chance you could pass on some suppliers that i can buy parts from to restore these pens?? I have done some searches but I am not finding parts like bladders and J bars ,plenty of nibs just no real parts. Would appreciate some contacts on where to buy parts...Subscribed and thumbs up ....great job!!
I have heard that getting the lever and barrel wet will damage the pen. I have a Waterman gold ring top and want to replace the sack. will I damage it soaking it in water ? how deep can the pen be soaked? also I heard that waterman somtimes glues the nib's on. Is that an issue for the ring top and can a glued nib be removed? Thank you
Soaking the section up to the threads in plain water should nor have an impact. I do not recommend soaking the whole barrel. Sometimes I may put water into level to help soften dried ink in inside the barrel. If you soak some hard rubber pens, they could discolor. Something to be careful with. I probably restore about 100 Waterman's and only one had a glued in section. Soaking & heat did not loose it. The ring top doesn't indicate glue or not. Glue was not standard on Waterman's as it was on Sheaffers. For me the secret to success is gentle pressure & working the section to eventually loose it. Good luck.
HI, i have Caran D'Ache Silver-Plated, Rhodium-Coated LÉMAN EBONY BLACK Fountain Pen, pen was falling on glass and strached untill brass. I see metal, how can I repare this? Do I need a lacquer and which type because I cant just polish this spot? In description says "Round brass body and cap lacquered in deep black" Thank you Jovan
Hi, Chris! This video just turned up in the TH-cam feed. Nice job! Regarding the New Banker, there was a short-lived pen brand called Banker, and Banker had been an engineer/designer for Parker for ages. He designed the famous 51, among others. Might your pen be one of his pieces?
I'm a vintage fountain pen enthusiast and I've repaired those that are easier to repair. Because of the specialized tools involved, I don't mess with the Sheaffer snorklers and others with their plunger mechanisms nor do I work on the Parker Vacumatics, etc. But those pens with the lever fillers are fair game! It's fun watching your video. I've already picked up a few tips. I prefer using shellac. I've never thought of using white glue, but the nice thing about shellac is it dries almost instantly. As for removing pen sacs with the old crystalized shellac, I find that scraping the section longitudinally instead of circumferentially cleans the shellac off quickly and painlessly. I use an X-acto knife, but I'm sure a scalpel works just as well. It's been years since I bought any sacs from the Pen Sac Company, and I'm sad to hear they've gone out of business. I hope there's someone else out there who's taken up the slack. I've subscribed to your channel. I'm hoping that you might spend some time on a pen in which the section is not easily removed. I have an old Shaeffer's 1928 Lifetime Flat Top that has a stuck-fast section. I've tried setting it in a pan of hot water for hours and even that didn't help. So I'm curious to see how you handle this. For others who may be interested in this, here are some sources for a couple of tools you mention. That bulb is actually a "solder sucker bulb." They can be found on eBay, under the quoted description. Your heavy duty section removal tool is actually a K Tool International KTI-70750 spark plug boot removal tool, although I don't recognize the grip material on yours. I have one I bought over 20 years ago and it has just a plain set of rubber grips. You can buy/order the KTI tool from a pen tool supply, or you can buy/order one from an auto parts store for about $8-10, probably at least half what you'll pay from a pen tool supply.
Thanks for the input. We can all learn more. I use a scalpel because I find it to be more precise than an X-acto, studier blade. Great to find tools among the common that work well for restorations, with maybe some modifications..
Great video. Is there a particular reason you prefer the Elmer's Glue?? From my experience, it will not hold for a particularly long time, I'd think years rather than decades -- and modern shellacs like you can buy from Anderson Pens can be removed quite easily. It'd be a shame for one of the sacs to get loose and stain those gorgeous materials.
+Rob P. I've been using Elmer's for 20+ years and have not had an issue. I have tried the modern shellacs. From my experience shellac hardens the latex and that can create its own issues. Many vintage pens I've restored have a flexible sac that fails at the section where shellac has hardened the sac.
whao! I JUST won a tiny little vintage FP on ebay! it's a lever fill. 14kt gold nib. small probably a size 4. silvery gray marbled resin(?) with a bit of red veining. no branding of any kind. it just seems to be missing the ink sac. im gonna order one and see if i can get her flowing. what a fun mystery! great helpful video!!!
What was the tool called that you used to hold open the sack for gluing? The sack in my Esterbrook just ripped in half while we were opening it to clean the nibs. Some dingus glued the lever to the side of the sack :( . This seems like a VERY EASY fix. I just don't know what those are called? 3 dollars in materials and what ever the cost of that tool is. Very cheap fix compared to buying a new pen.
I have inherited a vintage Esterbrook. I plan to clean and restore it to use. Your video is excellent, but I question the use of Elmer's white glue or wood glue for sealing or securing a new sac/bladder, since Elmer's and most wood glues are water-soluble. I believe that 3M makes an automotive weatherstrip adhesive designed for securing rubber to metal, paint or plastic substrates, but I'm not sure if any excess can be cleaned up with a mild solvent safe for use on plastics and phenolic materials. I might investigate something along those lines as I would hate to have a leak of any kind of ink. Thanks again for the detailed and well-produced video and the links to current suppliers.
I use waterproof wood glue, designed for outdoor use. I use it as it is water based and will not attack any pen materials. When I replace sac, it is easy to remove. I've spent too many hours scraping off shellac hardened sacs. Since this video, I now put a thin layer of shellac where sac & section meet after letting wood glue dry for a day. Shown in some of my recent restoration videos. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thank you for it! I’m trying to follow your steps on hold pen from my family, but I cannot take the front part out, even after several days of water soaking. Any idea how can I overcome that? Thank you in advance
What model pen is it? Warmer water. Are you using rubber grippers to help twist & pull on section? I've soaked a section for up to a week before it finally came loose. I do not recommend using pliers or heat, I've broken a few with that method.
You should invest in an ultrasonic cleaner you can get them for reasonably cheap off of Amazon and they work wonders particularly for the insides of the housing and Those hard-to-reach places I am young compared to most of you guys ( mid 30’s) but I am pretty good at restoring things I have been restoring old motorcycles most of my life and have recently got into fountain pens and have restored a few to good avail
I have an ultrasonic cleaner, had for years. Never felt it worked as well as using ammonia & soap & a brush. For me didn't clean out ink as well as ammonia does.
What a great video! I have a Parkette identical to the one you restored, but with both cap rings intact--a hi school graduation gift to my mother (1940) and engraved with her name. I was able to follow your directions to remove the old bladder and restore the appearance of the resin, but will probably seek out someone to replace the bladder. Now to get my own 8th grade graduation Esterbrook prepped, too. I used both of these pens throughout high school and college (2 pens so I didn't have to haul around a bottle of ink). Thank you so much for such clear and complete instructions. I really enjoyed watching
That Parkette really cleaned up nicely! They're not known as a high quality pen, but this one looks really nice. Definitely one I would personally use as a daily writer. I've seen similar colors on Sheaffers before; in fact I thought at first it was a Sheaffer. I like the job the polishing squares did, and the wax really does give it a new lease on life.
Thank you so much for your video, very well explained, great information, best video I have seen on the matter. I have the full desire to restore one. Once again thank you,
Thank you. I am working on 4 pens while watching this, three Osmiroids and a Dura. Your video has talked me through the process. I don't have ammonia. polishes or the cloths you mention, so finding these or suitable alternatives will be a voyage of discovery. Are there any substitutes for ammonia? I'm in the UK. One pen is writing well already. Best wishes.
1st rule take you time, go slowly. You should be able to find ammonia in a pharmacy. Polishes in a auto or hardware store. Glad you found the video helpful. Best wishes.
Chris, I forgot to mention in my last post that thanks to YOU I was able to separate the section from the barrel of a Esterbrook 9556 pen that I purchased with a Waterman's silver tone cap (I didn't know at the time that it wasn't the proper cap for this pen). Not only did it separate easily after soaking (in plain water), but I discovered that the sac was intact, I was able to fill it with ink, and it writes beautifully. Where can you suggest I find a matching cap for this Esterbrook pen? Thank you advance.
Thank you! I am restoring a Waterman 92V that I picked up long ago. Where are you buying restoration parts these days? I want to buy parts from a reputable person.
I had not had any long term issues (been using for over 10 years). I have evolved to now use wood glue, it is more waterproof. I'm not a shellac guy. I have so many challenges disassembling shellacked pens & have seen it effect latex sacs.
Please correctly name each pen so a search is successful. Enjoyed the video! A question for anyone to respond to: Parker Pen = Parker Ink Waterman Pen = Waterman Ink Mont Blanc Pen = Mont Blanc Ink. Yes or No?
I provided what I know in the video. As these are vintage, specific names vary. I suggest starting with Google search with as many key words as you can. My ink vote no, no real advantage to using branded ink in same brand pen.
Cool..ty. your video helped me immensely restore a Ester brook. I found a play I believe it's in the UK that provides Parts because the pressure bar is broken and I need a bladder
Super education video. I'm very new to the fountain pen thing, though I have a few nice ones that were given to me over the years. I have no clue as to how to restore them but find your video very informative. I have a few bids on 3 vintage pens on eBay. Very inexpensive though very cool looking pens. One is a leaver style which certainly does not work. I hope to use your video to help guide me in the right direction, once these vintage pens have been acquired..thanks again. As far as your tools, I suppose the best thing to do is a Google search...take care
Chris, I won this eBay auction here is the name and item. Vintage Olive Green & Black Plastic Or Celluloid Lever-Fill Fountain Pen Item# 122433899904. I suspect it will need a new lever, bag and nib. If you get the time maybe you can check it out. I understand it will be difficult at best to assess what it needs. Thanks again for your willingness to assist...
I have had possession of pens such as this. It is a good thing. RE: your camera work. I've also made many movies/videos of varying sorts... as much as I enjoyed your fingers and clothes and papers as you worked on the pens... I'd have preferred to see what is going on with the pen parts themselves as you do your thing. This is not a put-down by any means. You are a craftsman I can admire. But I like to think we can all get better.... so.... Thank you for your info and the good video on the whole. You seem to have a good mind and skills on the whole.
I have broken down a vintage pen I bought recently. It has a push button mechanism and the pressure bar is rusted. Have you provided a restoration of such a fountain pen. There are no markings on this pen so I have no clue what company produced it. The nib has made in USA engraved in it and that is it. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks
Rusted is OK, you can gently clean off rust with a fine abrasive. Then coat with wax. Knowing pen maker is not a big help as there are some many variations in vintage. Does sac need replacing?
Sadly, the pressure bar inside was rusted through. The sac was brittle and fell to pieces. I think I might have an idea how it works. I need to measure the barrel and figure what size metal bar is needed. I have a bag of assorted sacs. I can choose from one of those for a replacement. I have a small INKOGRAPH with a hooded nib that I restored today. It isn't perfect but with a good cleaning and a new sac I have it writing. I had to play with the nib on some mesh to produce a smoother writing nib. It was tearing up the paper to begin with but after working with it it flows nicely and skates across the paper. I'm kinda proud of my self. Your videos helped a lot. thanks.
I will use ultrasound if the bulb doesn't have good or any flow. My results with ultrasound are mixed, doesn't always work better than soaking. I'm OK soaking parts for weeks to get them clean. If cap band turns but is secure I leave it. Some bands are loose, I'll use some water based glue to secure them. I can easily remove excess glue after it dries.
My fountain pen was my great aunts, she used it painting, it is not the type with a cap that you take everywhere, it is the type you leave at you desk, it is nice, but I haven’t figured out how to fix it
Haven't used that for a while. Don't know how it would react with rubber. Want a glue that is waterproof but easily removed. Don't want a future restorer to have to scrape off a hard glue. I've done that too often.
Thanks for a great video. I'm new to restoring pens and have only done 5. This was a real help. Is "Pendemonium" the best place to buy tools and parts, such as j clips. I have a few pens with rotted j clips but didn't know how to procure them. I like the Elmer's Glue Idea and for that matter, being a woodworker with dozens of glues, I'm betting there are other options besides shellac which also do the job. Thanks again. People like you are a great service to others and in a world such as fountain pens, largely archaic, it's really hard to find people to learn from in person. I wish there was a school of some sort but that's not likely so the knowledge has to be gleaned here and there. Thank God for the web and generous others like yourself. Gary
+Gary Ferrini My pleasure. I enjoy sharing & hearing from other pen lovers. Also look at www.indy-pen-dance.com/ . If you can attend a pen show, you'll have another opportunity to learn from others. I restarted my pen interest by watching videos on youtube. At my first pen show I met Ron Zorn, who restored two vacumatics, www.mainstreetpens.com/index.htm Then there's the master, www.richardspens.com/, who I also met at pen shows. Both Ron & Richard freely share their pen experiences. Finally see if there is a local pen group or start your own. More of these are showing up. Thanks for your comment & sharing your experiences.
Thanks. I hope to get to this years DC pen show but have developed bad neuropathy so walking and even holding things, now a problem and limit my daily living. The treatment of pain in the US is utterly sadistic and stupid. People abuse drugs so they punish the people who need them for real. Anyway, I'd love to see Richard in action, Ron too, and the other real nibmeisters. I do have a metalworking and woodworking background so i feel certain I could learn much of this but the sheer volume of variation in pens is not managed as if it was stamps or coins. The information is everywhere and not centralized and parts proprietary but without some simple system which could identify parts to a novice. It's so different from wood where I could make what I needed if it wasn't for sale. Anyway, its great fun and suits my current limitis well. Thanks again for your video. Gary
Really interesting as usual, thank you so much. I'd now feel a little more confident fitting a replacement sac. I'd still need some tools and of course some spare sacs but eBay is doubtless my friend for those. The nearest I've come to these is disassembly and reassembly of two Duofold AF button fillers. It's quite fiddly getting the button out and then threading the pressure bar into it at reassembly stage without pinching the sac. It's not something I'd want to do often but it's a scandal to not put decent vintage gold nibs to use. There's something vaguely charming about giving a tired old pen relic a new lease of life.
Just now getting in to the whole Fountain Pen world and have bought a couple old Vintage Parkers (For now.... I'm sure this is going to become addicting! LOL) but with absolutely ZERO background in doing any of this, I found your video to be excellent and has given me the confidence to march forward with attempting my first restoration. Now to go track down the polishing pads, wax and tools to start! Thanks again for taking the time to document your process on these two restorations! Very informative.
I found a Waterman 55 a few days ago in an antique store for like $15. The Lever on it is broken and the bar inside may or may not be broken as well, but the nib and body are in great condition. I can't get the section off the pen, though. I've had it in water for about day so far, but it still isn't budging. Any tips?
Great, the nib is worth much more that that. Are you using a gripper? I found that hot water helps. Heat up to about 150. Immerse barrel to just above threads for about 15 sec. Be careful, the 55 is hard rubber, absorbs water. What color is it?
chrisrap52 I actually happened to have the matching led pencil for it which is in beautiful condition I got for about $10. That's about par for the course on those but it's the red ripple pattern.
Beautiful set. I see the broken lever. That can be fix, need to remove lever box from barrel. Grandmia has a video on that, th-cam.com/video/onrqyhuNEMU/w-d-xo.html, one of many he has done. Good luck.
I have not used abrasive papers. My goal is to gently remove corrosion & grime, not remove scratches. So I just polish with a pad or use a cream, like Simirchrome.
@@chrisrap52 thank you. I am thinking of repairing/ revitalizing some important FP that have been passed on to me. That is why I am watching vlogs. I feel more comfortable using a polishing rag? Instead of different degrees of sandpaper.
Thank you for making this very interesting video. I am curious about pen restoration and I think it's something I'd like to get into. I'll go and read some books first, however, but thanks for demystifying the process. Looking forward to more of the same.
So, what you're trying to say is, "Don't shellac your sack. Elmer's has enough tack to hold back your sack, and to talc your sack to lack the crack from coming back."
Just having some fun. Informative video.
More elegant than I. Agree with the process. I now shellac outside the sac to avoid a lax sac.
I have never held a pen of that age but just seeing it being taken apart and restored has been very interesting and enjoyable, Thank You very much for taking the time to make this video.
A tip : you can watch movies on kaldrostream. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Esteban Terrance yup, I have been using kaldroStream for since november myself =)
Thank you so much for making this video for all of us pen lovers and old pens especially. Very generous of you to share this valuable information. Looking forward to restoring my collection of old pens now. Have been waiting for this info for some time.
Excellent - step-by-step for FP restoration. I feel confident that, with the proper tools and materials, I can start restoring my (tiny) collection of vintage FPs - thank you!
Thanks for a great video! I have my dad's 1946 Eversharp Skyline pen and his early 1950's Wearever Pennant pen and you have inspired me to try restoring them. (At least I'll get them cleaned up). Thanks for the inspiration!
Hello. It was my grandfather's pen. Thanks for the advice about going slowly. I will start with the Osmiroids and get some practice before maybe approaching the Conway Stewart.
Thank you very much for the video. Loved every minute of it. You're right, its pretty long a video. But all good things come in time :) Please keep restoring and sharing your videos. Channel Subscribed.
Also, those links that you provided, helped a lot. Thanks once again :)
Thanks!!! I got my first real fountain pens and one the inside was a mess but I think I can fix it after watching this in pretty handy. Glad I didn't spend too much. 1930s. Not as fancy as yours but I like them so that's all that matters
I diy’ed your red suction bulb using a squeaker from a dog toy, it works great! Thanks for the video.
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Excellent reuse. Milo has few squeakers I could repurpose. Have a Great New Year. Thanks for watching.
I bought a parts pen on eBay so I could learn to repair vintage fountain pens. It is missing the top jewel and clip. I have looked online and can't find them anywhere. The pen was listed "unbranded" I do not have the pen yet but would like to find a jewel and clip. Do you know where I can find them?
Can't respond without some additional jnfo. Is there any branding on barrel or nib? Can u send pictures to me at Chris@rapseik.org?
I just love seeing these pens come back to life. Great work and inspiring.
Thanks, I enjoy restoring these timeless writing instruments & sharing with you.
Thank you! Loved it. I have one old pen. will find more now and do my own restorations!vicky
thanks for taking the time .... I appreciate it
I just found one of these (the Parkette) at an antique store today! Thank you for showing me how to bring it back to life!!!
Thank you, Glad my video was helpful.
Something that I'm about to tackle (as soon as all the supplies arrive.) Not hugely difficult, but replacing the ink sac in an Esterbrook LJ and Osmiroid 65 (the only thing that either one needs.) Very informative and useful video! Thanks!
Elmer's glue! Nice to know I don't need to shell out for shellac that I wouldn't use for anything else. I've never restored a pen, but I've got an old Sheaffer touchdown desk pen that would seem to just need a new sac and o-ring to be in working order
Great video, i was interested to see how to separate the barrel from the nib section ,as my waterman 512 v was shellacd on . Thanks for sharing this 😊
Thank you very much for opening a possible new hobby for me. I tried my hand at pocket watch restoration but found that the fine precision work (under magnification) was a bit beyond my manual dexterity. It looks like it would be more my speed.
BTW if anyone is wondering what that Rubber "thing" is that he's using from Radio Shack. It's a simple Desoldering Bulb. You can buy them on Amazon and just remove the white tip. www.amazon.com/Desoldering-Soldering-Irons-Electronix-Express/dp/B00EO4GN1I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1532609363&sr=8-9&keywords=Desoldering+Bulb
Thanks, that is it. Also can buy online from Radio Shack or a store if you can find one
Yeah! When I first saw it in your video I was looking at it like... "Where have I seen that before" and the search began Ha!
just found your channel!!! really great to see you restoring the mighty past in the form of the mighty pen!! Any chance you could pass on some suppliers that i can buy parts from to restore these pens?? I have done some searches but I am not finding parts like bladders and J bars ,plenty of nibs just no real parts. Would appreciate some contacts on where to buy parts...Subscribed and thumbs up ....great job!!
Places for supplies & tools. www.pendemonium.com/ ,
www.indy-pen-dance.com/ , www.andersonpens.com/Repair-Supplies-s/1813.htm
Thank you Chris
Thanks for the great video Chris and for sharing your knowledge with us.
Norm in AZ
I loved this video. thank you so much for posting it. I love watching this process and watching people tinker with fountain pens
Anybody know about "improvo" pens made in USA
Lovely to watch you and Dr. Kildare restore beautiful pieces of time, memorialized! Thanks for the videos!
It is a rewarding effort. Thanks.
I have heard that getting the lever and barrel wet will damage the pen. I have a Waterman gold ring top and want to replace the sack. will I damage it soaking it in water ? how deep can the pen be soaked? also I heard that waterman somtimes glues the nib's on. Is that an issue for the ring top and can a glued nib be removed? Thank you
Soaking the section up to the threads in plain water should nor have an impact. I do not recommend soaking the whole barrel. Sometimes I may put water into level to help soften dried ink in inside the barrel. If you soak some hard rubber pens, they could discolor. Something to be careful with. I probably restore about 100 Waterman's and only one had a glued in section. Soaking & heat did not loose it. The ring top doesn't indicate glue or not. Glue was not standard on Waterman's as it was on Sheaffers. For me the secret to success is gentle pressure & working the section to eventually loose it. Good luck.
HI, i have Caran D'Ache Silver-Plated, Rhodium-Coated LÉMAN EBONY BLACK Fountain Pen, pen was falling on glass and strached untill brass. I see metal, how can I repare this? Do I need a lacquer and which type because I cant just polish this spot? In description says "Round brass body and cap lacquered in deep black" Thank you Jovan
I cannot comment. I do not have this pen. Suggest reaching out to Caran.
Hi, Chris! This video just turned up in the TH-cam feed. Nice job! Regarding the New Banker, there was a short-lived pen brand called Banker, and Banker had been an engineer/designer for Parker for ages. He designed the famous 51, among others. Might your pen be one of his pieces?
I doubt it is. I didn't know about Banker. So much history. Thanks for watching.
Great video! Thank you, Chris!
I'm a vintage fountain pen enthusiast and I've repaired those that are easier to repair. Because of the specialized tools involved, I don't mess with the Sheaffer snorklers and others with their plunger mechanisms nor do I work on the Parker Vacumatics, etc. But those pens with the lever fillers are fair game! It's fun watching your video. I've already picked up a few tips.
I prefer using shellac. I've never thought of using white glue, but the nice thing about shellac is it dries almost instantly. As for removing pen sacs with the old crystalized shellac, I find that scraping the section longitudinally instead of circumferentially cleans the shellac off quickly and painlessly. I use an X-acto knife, but I'm sure a scalpel works just as well.
It's been years since I bought any sacs from the Pen Sac Company, and I'm sad to hear they've gone out of business. I hope there's someone else out there who's taken up the slack.
I've subscribed to your channel. I'm hoping that you might spend some time on a pen in which the section is not easily removed. I have an old Shaeffer's 1928 Lifetime Flat Top that has a stuck-fast section. I've tried setting it in a pan of hot water for hours and even that didn't help. So I'm curious to see how you handle this.
For others who may be interested in this, here are some sources for a couple of tools you mention. That bulb is actually a "solder sucker bulb." They can be found on eBay, under the quoted description. Your heavy duty section removal tool is actually a K Tool International KTI-70750 spark plug boot removal tool, although I don't recognize the grip material on yours. I have one I bought over 20 years ago and it has just a plain set of rubber grips. You can buy/order the KTI tool from a pen tool supply, or you can buy/order one from an auto parts store for about $8-10, probably at least half what you'll pay from a pen tool supply.
Thanks for the input. We can all learn more. I use a scalpel because I find it to be more precise than an X-acto, studier blade. Great to find tools among the common that work well for restorations, with maybe some modifications..
Great video. Is there a particular reason you prefer the Elmer's Glue?? From my experience, it will not hold for a particularly long time, I'd think years rather than decades -- and modern shellacs like you can buy from Anderson Pens can be removed quite easily. It'd be a shame for one of the sacs to get loose and stain those gorgeous materials.
+Rob P. I've been using Elmer's for 20+ years and have not had an issue. I have tried the modern shellacs. From my experience shellac hardens the latex and that can create its own issues. Many vintage pens I've restored have a flexible sac that fails at the section where shellac has hardened the sac.
whao! I JUST won a tiny little vintage FP on ebay! it's a lever fill. 14kt gold nib. small probably a size 4. silvery gray marbled resin(?) with a bit of red veining. no branding of any kind. it just seems to be missing the ink sac. im gonna order one and see if i can get her flowing. what a fun mystery! great helpful video!!!
Great, enjoy.
What was the tool called that you used to hold open the sack for gluing? The sack in my Esterbrook just ripped in half while we were opening it to clean the nibs. Some dingus glued the lever to the side of the sack :( . This seems like a VERY EASY fix. I just don't know what those are called? 3 dollars in materials and what ever the cost of that tool is. Very cheap fix compared to buying a new pen.
A sac spreader - www.pendemonium.com/pensacs.htm.
I have inherited a vintage Esterbrook. I plan to clean and restore it to use. Your video is excellent, but I question the use of Elmer's white glue or wood glue for sealing or securing a new sac/bladder, since Elmer's and most wood glues are water-soluble. I believe that 3M makes an automotive weatherstrip adhesive designed for securing rubber to metal, paint or plastic substrates, but I'm not sure if any excess can be cleaned up with a mild solvent safe for use on plastics and phenolic materials. I might investigate something along those lines as I would hate to have a leak of any kind of ink.
Thanks again for the detailed and well-produced video and the links to current suppliers.
I use waterproof wood glue, designed for outdoor use. I use it as it is water based and will not attack any pen materials. When I replace sac, it is easy to remove. I've spent too many hours scraping off shellac hardened sacs. Since this video, I now put a thin layer of shellac where sac & section meet after letting wood glue dry for a day. Shown in some of my recent restoration videos. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thank you for it! I’m trying to follow your steps on hold pen from my family, but I cannot take the front part out, even after several days of water soaking. Any idea how can I overcome that? Thank you in advance
What model pen is it? Warmer water. Are you using rubber grippers to help twist & pull on section? I've soaked a section for up to a week before it finally came loose. I do not recommend using pliers or heat, I've broken a few with that method.
You should invest in an ultrasonic cleaner you can get them for reasonably cheap off of Amazon and they work wonders particularly for the insides of the housing and Those hard-to-reach places I am young compared to most of you guys ( mid 30’s) but I am pretty good at restoring things I have been restoring old motorcycles most of my life and have recently got into fountain pens and have restored a few to good avail
I have an ultrasonic cleaner, had for years. Never felt it worked as well as using ammonia & soap & a brush. For me didn't clean out ink as well as ammonia does.
Great video! Maybe the best video of its kind on youtube. Elmers? Didn't know you could do that. I'll give it a try. Thanks!
What a great video! I have a Parkette identical to the one you restored, but with both cap rings intact--a hi school graduation gift to my mother (1940) and engraved with her name. I was able to follow your directions to remove the old bladder and restore the appearance of the resin, but will probably seek out someone to replace the bladder. Now to get my own 8th grade graduation Esterbrook prepped, too. I used both of these pens throughout high school and college (2 pens so I didn't have to haul around a bottle of ink). Thank you so much for such clear and complete instructions. I really enjoyed watching
Excellent. Glad you found it helpful. Restoring is a rewarding task, Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this upload! I have my grandpa's Parkette (this exact one) so I'm going to give restoration on it a shot
Good luck, patience & perseverance are key.
Thanks for video. Where do you get polishing cloths?.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058EDT5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon has these Polishing Pads.
This is an amazing video thank you!
That Parkette really cleaned up nicely! They're not known as a high quality pen, but this one looks really nice. Definitely one I would personally use as a daily writer. I've seen similar colors on Sheaffers before; in fact I thought at first it was a Sheaffer. I like the job the polishing squares did, and the wax really does give it a new lease on life.
Great vid, very enjoyable. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Do you have a list of suppliers? I need wax and polishing pads. Thanks!
Amazon is the source I use,
Thank you so much for your video, very well explained, great information, best video I have seen on the matter. I have the full desire to restore one. Once again thank you,
Thank you. I am working on 4 pens while watching this, three Osmiroids and a Dura. Your video has talked me through the process. I don't have ammonia. polishes or the cloths you mention, so finding these or suitable alternatives will be a voyage of discovery. Are there any substitutes for ammonia? I'm in the UK. One pen is writing well already. Best wishes.
1st rule take you time, go slowly. You should be able to find ammonia in a pharmacy. Polishes in a auto or hardware store. Glad you found the video helpful. Best wishes.
Chris, I forgot to mention in my last post that thanks to YOU I was able to separate the section from the barrel of a Esterbrook 9556 pen that I purchased with a Waterman's silver tone cap (I didn't know at the time that it wasn't the proper cap for this pen). Not only did it separate easily after soaking (in plain water), but I discovered that the sac was intact, I was able to fill it with ink, and it writes beautifully. Where can you suggest I find a matching cap for this Esterbrook pen? Thank you advance.
Where can I get those cleaning pads, wax, and bladders? I want to try to do a couple of old pens myself.... You have inspired me...:)
Two places I use www.indy-pen-dance.com/ & www.pendemonium.com/.
There maybe others. Good luck with your first restoration.
Pads are from Amazon - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058EDT5G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thx for sharing.
very cool very informative. you helped me restore my 40's 50's arnold to a writer with this video. Thank you
Absolutely fascinating content Chris, loved every moment. it's great to watch somebody who knows his/her craft at work, Thankyou. Cheers, Rob...
Thank you! I am restoring a Waterman 92V that I picked up long ago. Where are you buying restoration parts these days? I want to buy parts from a reputable person.
I recommend Pandemonium (www.pendemonium.com/repairservices.htm) and Pen Tooling (pentooling.com/suppliesmatls.html)
@@chrisrap52 you’re the best! Thank you.
Dr. Rap, we have a singer! Both operations were successful! Well done Doctor!
A very informative video, thank you for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it!
Does the elmer's glue hold for a long time? Nice video by the way.
I had not had any long term issues (been using for over 10 years). I have evolved to now use wood glue, it is more waterproof. I'm not a shellac guy. I have so many challenges disassembling shellacked pens & have seen it effect latex sacs.
okay, thank you
Shellac should dissolve in alcohol which shouldn't hurt anything else
Well done!!! Thank you for taking the time to explain and demonstrate pen restoration.
Thank you. Nice to know you appreciate.
Cool
Bravo Renaissance Wax!!! Excellent choice.
Please correctly name each pen so a search is successful.
Enjoyed the video!
A question for anyone to respond to:
Parker Pen = Parker Ink
Waterman Pen = Waterman Ink
Mont Blanc Pen = Mont Blanc Ink.
Yes or No?
I provided what I know in the video. As these are vintage, specific names vary. I suggest starting with Google search with as many key words as you can.
My ink vote no, no real advantage to using branded ink in same brand pen.
@@chrisrap52 ... Your video is excellent.
Why the downvotes?
There are always downers. Some don't like anything.
Are u familiar with the type that has the pump on the end of the pen? It's a Parker.
Aerometric filler?
Cool..ty. your video helped me immensely restore a Ester brook. I found a play I believe it's in the UK that provides Parts because the pressure bar is broken and I need a bladder
Can you spell the name of the little blue cloth you use to apply the renaissance wax please?
Just a paper shop towel I cut up. Can find in any hardware/auto store.
@@chrisrap52 thank you.
Is there a video to restore a hunter Wagner
Search on Google.
Super education video. I'm very new to the fountain pen thing, though I have a few nice ones that were given to me over the years. I have no clue as to how to restore them but find your video very informative. I have a few bids on 3 vintage pens on eBay. Very inexpensive though very cool looking pens. One is a leaver style which certainly does not work. I hope to use your video to help guide me in the right direction, once these vintage pens have been acquired..thanks again. As far as your tools, I suppose the best thing to do is a Google search...take care
I'd be glad to offer guidance in your restoration.
thank you Sir...I'll let you know once the auctions are over...truly appreciate you willingness to help.
Chris, I won this eBay auction here is the name and item. Vintage Olive Green & Black Plastic Or Celluloid Lever-Fill Fountain Pen Item# 122433899904. I suspect it will need a new lever, bag and nib. If you get the time maybe you can check it out. I understand it will be difficult at best to assess what it needs. Thanks again for your willingness to assist...
Pen will need some cleaning. Nib made need some work, will know more when cleaned. Let's moves this to email, use chris@rapseik.org. Thanks.
I have had possession of pens such as this. It is a good thing.
RE: your camera work. I've also made many movies/videos of varying sorts... as much as I enjoyed your fingers and clothes and papers as you worked on the pens... I'd have preferred to see what is going on with the pen parts themselves as you do your thing. This is not a put-down by any means. You are a craftsman I can admire. But I like to think we can all get better.... so.... Thank you for your info and the good video on the whole. You seem to have a good mind and skills on the whole.
Thanks for the feedback. Always looking to improve. Thanks for watching.
What is the small polishing pad?
Buy on Amazon - Ultra-Polish Pads - 2 X 2 Inches,. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058EDT5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Good hearing your voice.
Thanks for listening. I do talk a lot.
Can you please enable the closed captions? Thank you
Very interesting... thank you nyo!
Thank You so much for this valuable video. I completely enjoyed every minute!
Glad you enjoyed it! I enjoyed making it. Thanks for watching.
What wax were you using Chris? That Parker looks stunning after you cleaned it up!
Renaissance Wax. Polishing is as important before waxing.
I have just worked out that what I called a Dura is a Conway Stewart 60L green herringbone pen - learning about this is very enjoyable.
WOW2. Herringbone is a phenomenal material unique to CS. I have not been able to snag one too $$$. I'm jealous.
What is the rubber band?
A Lobster band. Used to keep claws closed. Many years ago I gave them away.
I have broken down a vintage pen I bought recently. It has a push button mechanism and the pressure bar is rusted. Have you provided a restoration of such a fountain pen. There are no markings on this pen so I have no clue what company produced it. The nib has made in USA engraved in it and that is it. Any help you can give would be appreciated. Thanks
Rusted is OK, you can gently clean off rust with a fine abrasive. Then coat with wax. Knowing pen maker is not a big help as there are some many variations in vintage. Does sac need replacing?
Sadly, the pressure bar inside was rusted through. The sac was brittle and fell to pieces. I think I might have an idea how it works. I need to measure the barrel and figure what size metal bar is needed. I have a bag of assorted sacs. I can choose from one of those for a replacement. I have a small INKOGRAPH with a hooded nib that I restored today. It isn't perfect but with a good cleaning and a new sac I have it writing. I had to play with the nib on some mesh to produce a smoother writing nib. It was tearing up the paper to begin with but after working with it it flows nicely and skates across the paper. I'm kinda proud of my self. Your videos helped a lot. thanks.
Glad to hear about your success. I enjoy sharing my experiences.
I was just wondering if there isn't some solvent that could remove the old dried shellac? Or would that also damage the pen/section material?
No solvent I would use. My technique is to scrape it off.
I broke the collector is there way to fix it or how do I just the collector of a specific pen
Did you break the feed in a vintage pen? Need to find a vintage replacement. Not something I know how to fix.
@@chrisrap52 omg ! it is a baoer
I would buy a new one for a few $.
Totally enjoyed watching your video. Hope to see more of the same. Now I'm off to check out more of your other videos.
Thanks, Follow, my Vintage Pens Playlist.
Really nice. What about ultrasound? How to repair the ring cap? Cheers
I will use ultrasound if the bulb doesn't have good or any flow. My results with ultrasound are mixed, doesn't always work better than soaking. I'm OK soaking parts for weeks to get them clean. If cap band turns but is secure I leave it. Some bands are loose, I'll use some water based glue to secure them. I can easily remove excess glue after it dries.
My fountain pen was my great aunts, she used it painting, it is not the type with a cap that you take everywhere, it is the type you leave at you desk, it is nice, but I haven’t figured out how to fix it
Sounds like a dip pen. No need to fix it. Need to get a bottle of ink & dip it & write or draw.
Thank You for this video, I just got my first vintage fountain pen and am glad for your video to see how to do it. Thanks!
Glad I could help. It is very rewarding bringing these forgotten treasures back to life.
thank you
You're welcome. Glad you liked it.
What is the name of the type of plier you use to stretch the sack open?
Thank you for such an informative video!
Sac Expander - pentooling.com/files.html
Fun video. You might try loctite blue to glue the bladder. Not water soluable and requires a tight fitting to set.
Haven't used that for a while. Don't know how it would react with rubber. Want a glue that is waterproof but easily removed. Don't want a future restorer to have to scrape off a hard glue. I've done that too often.
I have been wondering, when does a pen become a writing instrument🤔 I know that Mont Blanc sell only writing instruments.beautiful job on the pens.
Based on the hand of the holder.
Really enjoyed your video presentation... Thank you...
Thank you.
So beautifully done!@!!
Very nice video. I'm surprised you didn't polish the black pen section that holds the nib.
I will clean sections when needed. I like the feel of ebonite. If polished may be slippery.
Good to know.
I have a broken fountain pen. Would you repair and if so how much?
Send me photos, chris@rapseik.org.
Thanks for a great video. I'm new to restoring pens and have only done 5. This was a real help. Is "Pendemonium" the best place to buy tools and parts, such as j clips. I have a few pens with rotted j clips but didn't know how to procure them. I like the Elmer's Glue Idea and for that matter, being a woodworker with dozens of glues, I'm betting there are other options besides shellac which also do the job. Thanks again. People like you are a great service to others and in a world such as fountain pens, largely archaic, it's really hard to find people to learn from in person. I wish there was a school of some sort but that's not likely so the knowledge has to be gleaned here and there. Thank God for the web and generous others like yourself. Gary
+Gary Ferrini My pleasure. I enjoy sharing & hearing from other pen lovers. Also look at www.indy-pen-dance.com/ . If you can attend a pen show, you'll have another opportunity to learn from others. I restarted my pen interest by watching videos on youtube. At my first pen show I met Ron Zorn, who restored two vacumatics, www.mainstreetpens.com/index.htm Then there's the master, www.richardspens.com/, who I also met at pen shows. Both Ron & Richard freely share their pen experiences. Finally see if there is a local pen group or start your own. More of these are showing up. Thanks for your comment & sharing your experiences.
Thanks. I hope to get to this years DC pen show but have developed bad neuropathy so walking and even holding things, now a problem and limit my daily living. The treatment of pain in the US is utterly sadistic and stupid. People abuse drugs so they punish the people who need them for real. Anyway, I'd love to see Richard in action, Ron too, and the other real nibmeisters. I do have a metalworking and woodworking background so i feel certain I could learn much of this but the sheer volume of variation in pens is not managed as if it was stamps or coins. The information is everywhere and not centralized and parts proprietary but without some simple system which could identify parts to a novice. It's so different from wood where I could make what I needed if it wasn't for sale. Anyway, its great fun and suits my current limitis well. Thanks again for your video.
Gary
Thank you, for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching.
Really interesting as usual, thank you so much. I'd now feel a little more confident fitting a replacement sac. I'd still need some tools and of course some spare sacs but eBay is doubtless my friend for those. The nearest I've come to these is disassembly and reassembly of two Duofold AF button fillers. It's quite fiddly getting the button out and then threading the pressure bar into it at reassembly stage without pinching the sac. It's not something I'd want to do often but it's a scandal to not put decent vintage gold nibs to use. There's something vaguely charming about giving a tired old pen relic a new lease of life.
Glad you enjoyed it. You can contact me if you have any questions - chris@rapseik.org
@@chrisrap52 Very kind, thank you again.
Thank you for taking your time to make this tutorial.
You're very welcome! Glad you liked it.
Just now getting in to the whole Fountain Pen world and have bought a couple old Vintage Parkers (For now.... I'm sure this is going to become addicting! LOL) but with absolutely ZERO background in doing any of this, I found your video to be excellent and has given me the confidence to march forward with attempting my first restoration. Now to go track down the polishing pads, wax and tools to start! Thanks again for taking the time to document your process on these two restorations! Very informative.
Glad it was helpful. Good luck on your journey.
To get repair parts, sacs & levers & more, you can look at. Pendemonium, Anderson pens, Pentooling & many others
@@chrisrap52 Thanks for the pro tip Chris. Appreciate it.
I found a Waterman 55 a few days ago in an antique store for like $15. The Lever on it is broken and the bar inside may or may not be broken as well, but the nib and body are in great condition. I can't get the section off the pen, though. I've had it in water for about day so far, but it still isn't budging. Any tips?
Great, the nib is worth much more that that. Are you using a gripper? I found that hot water helps. Heat up to about 150. Immerse barrel to just above threads for about 15 sec. Be careful, the 55 is hard rubber, absorbs water. What color is it?
chrisrap52 I actually happened to have the matching led pencil for it which is in beautiful condition I got for about $10. That's about par for the course on those but it's the red ripple pattern.
chrisrap52 i.imgur.com/lxyDIVN.jpg That's a picture of them
Beautiful set. I see the broken lever. That can be fix, need to remove lever box from barrel. Grandmia has a video on that, th-cam.com/video/onrqyhuNEMU/w-d-xo.html, one of many he has done. Good luck.
Thank you! Mr. Chrisrap52, Excellent video
Where can I buy the plastic ink feed pieces??
Could you be more specific. What plastic feed piece are you referring to? If in video what time?
This was a good and helpful video; thanks. Would you edit your description to include links as I think that would be most helpful.
Did you use different grades of sandpaper to polish the FP or just use a polishing rag?
I have not used abrasive papers. My goal is to gently remove corrosion & grime, not remove scratches. So I just polish with a pad or use a cream, like Simirchrome.
@@chrisrap52 thank you. I am thinking of repairing/ revitalizing some important FP that have been passed on to me. That is why I am watching vlogs. I feel more comfortable using a polishing rag? Instead of different degrees of sandpaper.
Thank you for making this very interesting video. I am curious about pen restoration and I think it's something I'd like to get into. I'll go and read some books first, however, but thanks for demystifying the process. Looking forward to more of the same.
Thanks, today I got two pens.where do I buy the bladder.
www.pendemonium.com/pensacs.htm
Pandemonium link doesn’t work now.
This is no restoration, this is a clean video!
Restoring into a writing instrument. Cleaning is one stage.