Thanks for your videos. Very informative. If I could share a lesson from my Grandpa.... "If you're struggling, you're taking too big a bite" a simple rule to follow. Thank you again. Godspeed & safe riding everyone.
Thanks so much for your videos, they gave me a lot of confidence to do these things on my own, and doing so gives me extra pride in owning and riding my V-STrom... Keep up the awesome work!!!
Thank you for the instructional video these help me out a bunch.After I watch your videos I get my 13 to son to help me.Never had a man around growing up and want to do better for me and my son.
There are so many variables to consider in different situations. Rusty? Age? Size and material of bolt? Function? There's no simple answer to that question. Generally, I like to use hand tools because I can "feel" the tension in the bolt or nut. I can tell whether I'm breaking the threads loose from their tension or if I'm beginning to shear or round off the bolt. That said, power tools can make repetitive removals faster, but they usually remove that critical feel. A power ratchet is a nice middle ground because you can use your own hand to loosen the bolt/nut, and then, once it's loose, quickly remove with the power function. Other best practices include never using a 12-point socket with an impact wrench. I could really go on and on with examples. Short answer, hand tools and taking one's time is generally safer than power tools, but admittedly a little slower. Not that much slower though really. Hope that helps.
No lube?? 😳🤯🥶 I spray down and make a puddle around the bead with water and dish soap before breaking down makes things even easier. Then again as you work the tire off Oops I see someone beat me to it below in comments. Great and practical mechanic friend 👍🏼
any idea on how to know when to change it bought a used 2011 vstrom 650 planning a trip from Ontario to bc with it this summer trying to get an idea of how to pack what I need but pack not to heavy could just go to a shop but they really up their rates this year and honestly if I can work on my truck a bike should be to hard
Thanks for watching. I assume your are speaking of a Shinko 705. If so, I've gotten over 10,000 miles on them easily when I don't load the bike down. This past summer I rode across country and back, heavily loaded in some hot temps, and got only 8000 miles. So, it depends. Hope that's helpful.
@@UrbanMonkTV it does thanks currently watching your Playlist for the vstrom even though yours is a 1000 it's atleast giving me and idea of what I got for the guts in my 650
Congratulations on the persistence and the will for this frustrating manual work, not for me, better be doing valve clearance adjustment than this. Doesn't worth saving the 10 bucks in my eyes, for a tire shop to mount the new tire on the already dismounted wheel. Cheers!
I’m using the same HF bead breaker on same V-Strom wheel but the back of mine slides out and up. Even watching you do the same process as me, cannot for life of me tell why the base of the bead breaker doesn’t slide on you?
Coupla things: 1) Even though a mallet is being used, I always recommend putting the axle nut on before hitting the axle just to be extra careful not to distort the threads. Practically mandatory if hitting it with anything other than rubber mallet. 2) I have to wonder if indexing the sprocket/cush drive on the wheel/tire when balancing just to make sure the entire rotating mass is as balanced as possible. Not necessary?
john hanrahan Thanks for watching. Agree if one was not using rubber mallet then banging the threads would suck eggs. Since the cash drive is near the center of the rotation there's less velocity to its mass. I don't think it matters, but I could be wrong. I often am. My life is an imperfect journey. ☺
john hanrahan Used a dead blow hammer. Also always use anti seize on your axles when you reassemble. Same with the adjuster bolts. Especially the portion inside the swing arm.
Next time.....find an empty grease drum n throw a bag of sand in it. Place a towel on top n put the wheel on top of the barrel. Saves crawling all over the floor.
I hope you're still riding safe. Thanks for the video and really like your improvised bead protectors. I'm glad to have found a video of a Shinko 705 install. I have a set and was a little anxious about their stiffness. I've found a technique using heavy duty zip ties to compress the tire bead on one side. It helps with dismounting and mounting, but more with the latter. Here's a good video th-cam.com/video/MdbsP4EOt-4/w-d-xo.html I used the technique and made the job easier. I hope it helps.
You may have mentioned this on another video, but are these Shinko 705's? EDIT: OK, I typed this and 3 minutes later saw the Shinko name right on the side wall. Good video thanks! Not my first tire change, but my first time taking the rear wheel off the new-to-me v-strom.
Appreciate it! I've got a front already just waiting to go on and planning to get a rear soon replacing the worn Annakee 3's that came with the bike. BTW, my old bike is a GS850G.
Well, the GS wins on style 8 days/week. I miss it. Still have it, actually, but haven't ridden it in years and committed to finishing a 3-years-and-running top end rebuild and selling it to offset the v-strom. Super comfortable, too, though I spent some years dialing it in with shorter & shorter bars from the stock bullhorns to (I think) ending up with Daytonas. Shaft drive required a gear oil change one or twice/year - period. But I was always wondering if the carbs and valve clearances were dialed in, and they required regular attention. It's not a Cafe build by any stretch, but I do like that look. Calling it a "build" at all feels goofy, as I've barely touched it cosmetically. Here, check it out - photos.app.goo.gl/EV4yLbhBvW3amJYf2 Meanwhile, I've wanted a V-strom for years (along with a Bandit 1200 and a late 90's VFR and a DR650 and...) and since the current big need was commuting, I found a solid deal on a semi-pre-farkled high(ish) mileage Vee and I'm quite enjoying it. The engine and drivetrain are solid, much less fussy than the GS, and pulls harder, which makes sense for a bike that's both bigger and 20 years newer. Comfort is OK, but I haven't changed one thing yet, and a couple tweaks could really dial things in once I figure out what''s not perfect today. Ironically, the PO put on bars that pulled him more forward (less sweep, I think) and I think that's got me feeling seat pressure in an unintended way. The seat concepts seat seems like it'd be more comfortable if I were more upright. Anyway, since I used to bike camp a bit with the GS, this seems like a perfect fit to continue that while also being a serious mile-eater. The GS was no slouch in the twisties, but the Vee just carves effortlessly in comparison, and I've only been back on the road about a month. It's got a PCV (one of the several performance farkles) and I think it's mapped rich, which may be why my fuel economy is a bit disappointing, so I need to figure that out at some point. But it never stumbles or hesitates, so maybe that's the trade-off.
Joshua Russo Thanks for the pics. I love that bike. Great condition. Wish my 550 had those dual disk brakes up front! My Strom is still all stock (no PCIII or V) so I have to manage around the hesitation. I've gotten used to it. I doubt my cafe racer will be very comfortable, but I'm building it for fun and an exercise in art and design. I also own an 81 GL500 Silverwing that I'll probably restore after the gs550 is done. It's parked in my brother's garage back up in MN. Enjoy your project and your Strom!
Yes, absolutely! Good advice for the community. You see around 22:30 I spray window cleaner on the bead for that "slippery factor." Thank you for watching!
I mention in my book my upbringing and how my farmer father instilled a practicality in me that stems directly from the Great Depression. If it works, keep it...use it. Thanks for watching.
Great video, but dude you are working way to hard. Up here in Northwest, Portland area, I can have tire mounted and balanced if I bring the wheel and tire in for $30.00. I don't see the value in doing it your way, IMHO...
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
Man, great video! Especially for the non-mechanically inclined like myself. Thank you👍
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your videos. Very informative. If I could share a lesson from my Grandpa.... "If you're struggling, you're taking too big a bite" a simple rule to follow. Thank you again. Godspeed & safe riding everyone.
I am glad it just wasn’t me getting beat up by changing the rear tire on my Vstrom.. great video
They aren't easy, but certainly doable. Helps to warm them in the sun, but sometimes the weather doesn't cooperate. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for your videos, they gave me a lot of confidence to do these things on my own, and doing so gives me extra pride in owning and riding my V-STrom... Keep up the awesome work!!!
unclebender99 Thank you for watching! Enjoy your Strom! Great bikes.
Thank you for the instructional video these help me out a bunch.After I watch your videos I get my 13 to son to help me.Never had a man around growing up and want to do better for me and my son.
That is awesome! Thank you for watching!
Can you use powertools to remove bolts and stuff or Will that damage it?
There are so many variables to consider in different situations. Rusty? Age? Size and material of bolt? Function? There's no simple answer to that question. Generally, I like to use hand tools because I can "feel" the tension in the bolt or nut. I can tell whether I'm breaking the threads loose from their tension or if I'm beginning to shear or round off the bolt. That said, power tools can make repetitive removals faster, but they usually remove that critical feel. A power ratchet is a nice middle ground because you can use your own hand to loosen the bolt/nut, and then, once it's loose, quickly remove with the power function. Other best practices include never using a 12-point socket with an impact wrench. I could really go on and on with examples. Short answer, hand tools and taking one's time is generally safer than power tools, but admittedly a little slower. Not that much slower though really. Hope that helps.
You are a legend mate 👍🤝
Thank you for watching!
No lube?? 😳🤯🥶
I spray down and make a puddle around the bead with water and dish soap before breaking down makes things even easier. Then again as you work the tire off
Oops I see someone beat me to it below in comments. Great and practical mechanic friend 👍🏼
any idea on how to know when to change it bought a used 2011 vstrom 650 planning a trip from Ontario to bc with it this summer trying to get an idea of how to pack what I need but pack not to heavy could just go to a shop but they really up their rates this year and honestly if I can work on my truck a bike should be to hard
Thanks for watching. I assume your are speaking of a Shinko 705. If so, I've gotten over 10,000 miles on them easily when I don't load the bike down. This past summer I rode across country and back, heavily loaded in some hot temps, and got only 8000 miles. So, it depends. Hope that's helpful.
@@UrbanMonkTV it does thanks currently watching your Playlist for the vstrom even though yours is a 1000 it's atleast giving me and idea of what I got for the guts in my 650
@@EmeraldDragonsFlame They're nearly carbon copies so should be relevant. Thanks again for watching.
Congratulations on the persistence and the will for this frustrating manual work, not for me, better be doing valve clearance adjustment than this. Doesn't worth saving the 10 bucks in my eyes, for a tire shop to mount the new tire on the already dismounted wheel. Cheers!
Thanks for watching. If you have a shop willing to put tires on for $10, I'd go for that too. Wish one would do it that cheap here.
If you go to the shop with the wheel and the new tire, what would be the price for dismounting the old tire and mounting the new one?
Can you use the bead breaker to put the tire on?
I've not considered it. You've made me curious. Have to wait for next tire change to investigate.
I’m using the same HF bead breaker on same V-Strom wheel but the back of mine slides out and up. Even watching you do the same process as me, cannot for life of me tell why the base of the bead breaker doesn’t slide on you?
Hmm. First, thank you for watching. Do you have a block of wood under the wheel like I do?
Coupla things: 1) Even though a mallet is being used, I always recommend putting the axle nut on before hitting the axle just to be extra careful not to distort the threads. Practically mandatory if hitting it with anything other than rubber mallet.
2) I have to wonder if indexing the sprocket/cush drive on the wheel/tire when balancing just to make sure the entire rotating mass is as balanced as possible. Not necessary?
john hanrahan Thanks for watching. Agree if one was not using rubber mallet then banging the threads would suck eggs. Since the cash drive is near the center of the rotation there's less velocity to its mass. I don't think it matters, but I could be wrong. I often am. My life is an imperfect journey. ☺
Cush drive. Autocomplete.
john hanrahan Used a dead blow hammer. Also always use anti seize on your axles when you reassemble. Same with the adjuster bolts. Especially the portion inside the swing arm.
Why don’t you turn the wheel the other way n work the back? You’re making it harder.
Next time.....find an empty grease drum n throw a bag of sand in it. Place a towel on top n put the wheel on top of the barrel. Saves crawling all over the floor.
I hope you're still riding safe. Thanks for the video and really like your improvised bead protectors. I'm glad to have found a video of a Shinko 705 install. I have a set and was a little anxious about their stiffness. I've found a technique using heavy duty zip ties to compress the tire bead on one side. It helps with dismounting and mounting, but more with the latter. Here's a good video th-cam.com/video/MdbsP4EOt-4/w-d-xo.html I used the technique and made the job easier. I hope it helps.
You may have mentioned this on another video, but are these Shinko 705's? EDIT: OK, I typed this and 3 minutes later saw the Shinko name right on the side wall. Good video thanks! Not my first tire change, but my first time taking the rear wheel off the new-to-me v-strom.
Joshua Russo Yes, 705s. Love them. Absolutely convinced I'm getting best bang for my buck with them. Enjoy your new Strom! I'm a fan.
Appreciate it! I've got a front already just waiting to go on and planning to get a rear soon replacing the worn Annakee 3's that came with the bike. BTW, my old bike is a GS850G.
Joshua Russo I'd be curious to hear your thoughts comparing the Strom to the 850gs. That's a nice bike.
Well, the GS wins on style 8 days/week. I miss it. Still have it, actually, but haven't ridden it in years and committed to finishing a 3-years-and-running top end rebuild and selling it to offset the v-strom. Super comfortable, too, though I spent some years dialing it in with shorter & shorter bars from the stock bullhorns to (I think) ending up with Daytonas. Shaft drive required a gear oil change one or twice/year - period. But I was always wondering if the carbs and valve clearances were dialed in, and they required regular attention.
It's not a Cafe build by any stretch, but I do like that look. Calling it a "build" at all feels goofy, as I've barely touched it cosmetically. Here, check it out - photos.app.goo.gl/EV4yLbhBvW3amJYf2
Meanwhile, I've wanted a V-strom for years (along with a Bandit 1200 and a late 90's VFR and a DR650 and...) and since the current big need was commuting, I found a solid deal on a semi-pre-farkled high(ish) mileage Vee and I'm quite enjoying it. The engine and drivetrain are solid, much less fussy than the GS, and pulls harder, which makes sense for a bike that's both bigger and 20 years newer. Comfort is OK, but I haven't changed one thing yet, and a couple tweaks could really dial things in once I figure out what''s not perfect today. Ironically, the PO put on bars that pulled him more forward (less sweep, I think) and I think that's got me feeling seat pressure in an unintended way. The seat concepts seat seems like it'd be more comfortable if I were more upright. Anyway, since I used to bike camp a bit with the GS, this seems like a perfect fit to continue that while also being a serious mile-eater. The GS was no slouch in the twisties, but the Vee just carves effortlessly in comparison, and I've only been back on the road about a month. It's got a PCV (one of the several performance farkles) and I think it's mapped rich, which may be why my fuel economy is a bit disappointing, so I need to figure that out at some point. But it never stumbles or hesitates, so maybe that's the trade-off.
Joshua Russo Thanks for the pics. I love that bike. Great condition. Wish my 550 had those dual disk brakes up front!
My Strom is still all stock (no PCIII or V) so I have to manage around the hesitation. I've gotten used to it.
I doubt my cafe racer will be very comfortable, but I'm building it for fun and an exercise in art and design.
I also own an 81 GL500 Silverwing that I'll probably restore after the gs550 is done. It's parked in my brother's garage back up in MN.
Enjoy your project and your Strom!
Some dish soap mixed with water sprayed on the bead would make things a lot easier.
Yes, absolutely! Good advice for the community. You see around 22:30 I spray window cleaner on the bead for that "slippery factor." Thank you for watching!
That valve core remover from 1928 lol.
I mention in my book my upbringing and how my farmer father instilled a practicality in me that stems directly from the Great Depression. If it works, keep it...use it. Thanks for watching.
Great video, but dude you are working way to hard. Up here in Northwest, Portland area, I can have tire mounted and balanced if I bring the wheel and tire in for $30.00. I don't see the value in doing it your way, IMHO...
Wayne Howarth Thanks for watching! :) $30 is a good price. You're right, I'm working too hard... If one views it as work.