Just as an addendum, it would be great to put a stopper knot at the end of the rope when you lower it. And for us that don't have instant-transmission it would also be great to backup the rappel with a prussic, Klemheist or some other method. Great video BTW Josh. Love your videos.
As a bald guy in the “rope access” side of things I am happy to first hand endorse the Mr. Clean 🧼 method. Definitely a next level technique as there is no “Oh Shiz” literal fallback... ...So hoping the mercy is the letter B in sign language displayed in Josh Perry fashion on a T-Shirt!
Heres some unsolicited feedback: For the effort involved and number of knots tied to toprope a single strand on a biner-block you are leaving a second line hanging for no real purpose other than to be able to clean from the bottom. To top rope solo you always walk to the anchor so this is really just front loading the cleaning work, but leaving another rope hanging there not being utilized. For more redundancy but same overall effort, simply feed the rope to middle mark, tie both sides of the rope from anchor into a BHK that isolates each strand so they function as a redundancy to each other, and then you can use two microtrax or rollnlocks, one on each strand for redundancy. When you top out, transition you simply transition to rappel WITH A THIRD HAND (or biner block if you must), untie your BHK blocker and enjoy the clean pull where your biner-block doesn't get caught in a crack, fully hosing you. As described here there is no clear advantage shown to the viewer of what you are doing, other than "tie a biner block so you can use your grigri to rappel, erm nevermind atc" without backup or mention of a backup. Of all of the ideas skimmed over you exemplified the most common practice that leads to fatality in climbing, no backup to your gloveless rappel. Granted you are in single pitch and saw your ends on the ground, but really really consider what you are showing aspiring climbers on youtube. If you're gonna share knowledge over the internet, make sure its really quality knowledge. Just posting this to be the yang to the yin, if we ever meet, I'll buy the beer.
Peter Chasteen great comment thanks! 🤙🏻 I’ll take you up on the beer. 🍻 What I was trying to get across which I kind of failed to do was if you plan on top rope soling something that might a little out of your league maybe then you can use this method to try it out. If you can’t get to the anchors your only option would be to rope climb. So with this method you wouldn’t have to, just rap down and pull. All while trying to be ultra light and a gear Minimalist. I do like the idea of putting the rope through the anchor at the half way mark essentially doubling it up, then using a tag line to pull down. This would give you more redundancy. I think I’ll make a future video of that and try to make it more “clean” perhaps “super clean” 😂 🤙🏻
Great video! Historically I've just been doing two cloves on a couple carabiners for redundancy. Super quick and easy to set up, but does leave me always having to reascend to clean. This is pretty much just as efficient with the added benefit of not having to reascend after a long day of projecting a route.
Really glad I watched this. Sometimes I kid myself that I already know all the tricks (I don't!) but somehow I missed the trick on using a clove hitch instead of the alpine butterfly that I always use. Next time I need to retrieve I'm definitely going to clove hitch a pair of mini sized snaplinks (opposed gates, like Edelrid 19g) probably reduces snag risk on pull down too! THANK YOU
Nice! I dig it. I'm a too rope solo climber that definitely will try this out. Nothing like having to climb back up to gather the rope when tired asf. Definitely trying this.
Very cool, might have to start using the clove hitch too. I use a very similar setup in trees with a ring and ring cambium saver, that has two different sized rings, if I'm blocking on the small side, I use an alpine butterfly, on the large side I use a double alpine butterfly, because it's larger and doesn't get jammed in the large ring. Both methods are backed up by a biner, but not around the working side, if I did that the retrieval side would always have to follow the same path as the working side. If you want to top rope solo with two lines, but only have one rope, you could still use this method, all you need is a light retrieval line. Just set up two knot blocks in the middle of the rope, and clip the retrieval line to the rope... Also eliminates clipping in to the retrieval side.
Come to think of it, I think I have done something like that. And the problem you get is when the one rope Is weighted and unweighted it want to spin or twist. Then it just twist the two ropes together and might just give you more trouble. But I haven’t tried it the way you are describing with climbing ropes, I have experienced it with 3/4 in rope and tage lines. Would have to experiment with that I think it’s a cool idea!
@@BetaClimbers I don't know if we're talking about the same thing, I didn't say anything about attaching a line to the working end... What I was proposing was feeding both ends of the line through the anchor in the same direction (preferably through different chainlinks, but using only the rings allows you to set up your anchor without access to the end, interesting...), then setting up the knot block in the bight that is formed in the middle of the line, basically your setup, but you take the retrieval side and pass it through the anchor again. Since you don't have a retrieval side anymore, attach a small line for that purpose
raphael beinhauer I’m a very Visual person that’s why I’m a TH-camr🤣 I’ll have to think about this when I got some more free time I’m on the run today! Lol
raphael beinhauer okay I see what your saying now! Yeah now that I think about it you couldnt attach anything to the working end because it wouldn’t pull through anyway. But your saying having two lines going through the anchor and then pulling down the block knot with a tag line. Very interesting. I don’t know how difficult it would be having two lines through the chains but it sounds doable. Lol I think you just made a super safe MR clean method video idea! 🤣
You mentioned lowering off of one strand (grigri) but didn't mention that choosing the wrong strand will result in death. You also had a personal anchor that was so short that you were unable to weight your rappel before removing your personal anchor. This is the best failsafe for the most common errors associated with this method, including lowering off the wrong strand. You discussed how this is an advanced technique that only advanced climbers should utilize and I concur, but will add that you are not advanced enough to teach this technique in a safe, responsible way.
Steven Miller normally if you use a gri gri to rappel then one end is tied into your harness then run through the anchors then into your grigri. So as you start to move down the rope is sliding through the anchor while being weighted. If you use an ATC then you can rappel down both strands and the rope doesn’t slide though the anchor, until your weight is off and you pull it through.
@@BetaClimbers I feel like if you use the side of the rope that is safe to weight by itself you could safely rapell with the grigri without the rope running through the chains or rings at all. However if you pick the wrong strand it could kill you. Is that the method you were going to use before you decided on the atc?
Saúl Nogueras I find those to grabby I haven’t yet found anything that glides up a rope as freely as a trax yet but I have some things being sent to me I’ll be reviewing soon.
Some interesting ideas. I may still prefer tying a BFK in the middle of my rope that I then attach to the anchor with two locking biners - something about that big of a honking knot inspires confidence when I can't see what's going on up there- and then I also know both rope strands will work. In this way, you would perhaps need to thread the rope through the chains at the end, but with your method, you'll still have to thread them - just at the beginning. Also it's just my luck that when I pull the rope, that knot and locking biner at the end is going to get stuck in a crack or a tree or something. Also would you *really* walk away from a TRS setup to get lunch? I'd be worried that someone would screw with my gear - there's a few written accident reports about climbers finding what they thought were TRS setups that they then used, only to find out that they were stuck ropes!
I thought you could do the run through in a classroom type scenario before taking it out to a climb. It would give better camera visuals to what you’re doing etc. Thanks for sharing this method though.
What is the reason why you cant just run the ropes through both rings and repel down both ropes on an atc? Or can you, and this method is just helpful if you want to repel off one rope?
I learned something new today. So i dont mind trying TR solo with one line because normal TR im on one line, but.... Only using one device as a fall arrester kind of creeps me out.
Hey josh I'm very new to climbing and trying to learn was wondering after you threaded the rope through the rings if you made knots on the ends so you can't rapell of the rope? My guess was you did not but the risk is not there because you can clearly see that both ends touch the ground, am I right ?
That’s is correct. It’s a very good idea to just get in the habit of tying knots in the end anyway. However if the climb below you is a vertical crack the hazard then there is a hazard of the knot getting stuck. In that scenario I recommend you tie into the end so the knot is always with you in fact id always just recommend tying into the end. Unless there is something for a loop to get stuck in. These are all things you need to know before you start going outdoors. So it’s always best to find some one that has been at it for 10 years or more.
Not sure if it’s something you could ever record, but i think it could make some good content to see what you do professionally. How these methods relate or transfer to the profession.
Nolan Gormley I have some clips of the stuff I do but unfortunately a lot of it is stuck behind non disclosure agreements. I do plan on finding some work arounds a on that in future.
Right as long as you do something another option is just leave your device on the rope. Point is make sure you don’t make that mistake Because there are plenty climbers that have died that way.
wU69pRspi7jtlPfpzk4b in this episode I am only using a trax which is pretty risky and not recommended that’s why I didn’t want to get into it on this episode. Lol it’s better to have some more back ups and I’m testing some more tools out in future episodes.
2 things... 1: keep making sick videos and you won't be able to use the word "underground" to describe your channel. 2: keep wearing your pants tucked into your socks like that and you'll start a fashion trend... i just hope you are able to make a few more cool vids before the government snatches you up for testing and to learn your teleportation technique. Teleporting is a much safer method than repelling and extends the life of gear.
I used to tuck my pants into my socks when riding my bike (to keep my pants out of the chain (more to keep the dirty oil/grease off my pants)). Still do, sometimes.
Bill Currie haha yeah I do the same thing. The chiggers/ticks here are pretty bad right now so I just make sure I hike the bushy sections with my socks over my pants lol 😂
Joel Wafford good comment those are important features to have. If you ever watch my tag line video one important thing to remember, for anyone that reads this, do not forget to untie your end knot when it’s time to pull the rope threw. That’s why I usually recommend tying into the end.
@@BetaClimbers Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant for when you were rappelling, I would rather figure out the hassle of getting my rope down (if I were to forget to untie the stopper), than rapping off the end of my rope. Also, (random question) in one of your past videos I really digged that rug in your living room, anyway you could spare me on where you got it lol Thanks
Just as an addendum, it would be great to put a stopper knot at the end of the rope when you lower it. And for us that don't have instant-transmission it would also be great to backup the rappel with a prussic, Klemheist or some other method. Great video BTW Josh. Love your videos.
He instantly transmitted me into a state farm ad. Impressive.
Love this channel! Thanks for the content dude. Good ep!
As a bald guy in the “rope access” side of things I am happy to first hand endorse the Mr. Clean 🧼 method. Definitely a next level technique as there is no “Oh Shiz” literal fallback...
...So hoping the mercy is the letter B in sign language displayed in Josh Perry fashion on a T-Shirt!
We use this method in the military to retrieve rope if we need to get a team down quickly and use the rope again on another slope.
Heres some unsolicited feedback:
For the effort involved and number of knots tied to toprope a single strand on a biner-block you are leaving a second line hanging for no real purpose other than to be able to clean from the bottom. To top rope solo you always walk to the anchor so this is really just front loading the cleaning work, but leaving another rope hanging there not being utilized. For more redundancy but same overall effort, simply feed the rope to middle mark, tie both sides of the rope from anchor into a BHK that isolates each strand so they function as a redundancy to each other, and then you can use two microtrax or rollnlocks, one on each strand for redundancy. When you top out, transition you simply transition to rappel WITH A THIRD HAND (or biner block if you must), untie your BHK blocker and enjoy the clean pull where your biner-block doesn't get caught in a crack, fully hosing you. As described here there is no clear advantage shown to the viewer of what you are doing, other than "tie a biner block so you can use your grigri to rappel, erm nevermind atc" without backup or mention of a backup. Of all of the ideas skimmed over you exemplified the most common practice that leads to fatality in climbing, no backup to your gloveless rappel. Granted you are in single pitch and saw your ends on the ground, but really really consider what you are showing aspiring climbers on youtube. If you're gonna share knowledge over the internet, make sure its really quality knowledge.
Just posting this to be the yang to the yin, if we ever meet, I'll buy the beer.
Peter Chasteen great comment thanks! 🤙🏻 I’ll take you up on the beer. 🍻 What I was trying to get across which I kind of failed to do was if you plan on top rope soling something that might a little out of your league maybe then you can use this method to try it out. If you can’t get to the anchors your only option would be to rope climb. So with this method you wouldn’t have to, just rap down and pull. All while trying to be ultra light and a gear Minimalist. I do like the idea of putting the rope through the anchor at the half way mark essentially doubling it up, then using a tag line to pull down. This would give you more redundancy. I think I’ll make a future video of that and try to make it more “clean” perhaps “super clean” 😂 🤙🏻
Great video! Historically I've just been doing two cloves on a couple carabiners for redundancy. Super quick and easy to set up, but does leave me always having to reascend to clean. This is pretty much just as efficient with the added benefit of not having to reascend after a long day of projecting a route.
Really glad I watched this. Sometimes I kid myself that I already know all the tricks (I don't!) but somehow I missed the trick on using a clove hitch instead of the alpine butterfly that I always use. Next time I need to retrieve I'm definitely going to clove hitch a pair of mini sized snaplinks (opposed gates, like Edelrid 19g) probably reduces snag risk on pull down too! THANK YOU
That's truly youtube's favorite underground climbing channel:)
That's how I want to climb, safe, no whippers, simple set up, great, thank you.
Hey Josh. Could you please do a vid on "The talk" for us please? 🤭
Josef Berns 🤣
Nice!
I dig it. I'm a too rope solo climber that definitely will try this out. Nothing like having to climb back up to gather the rope when tired asf. Definitely trying this.
Anthony Lacy your going to like my new episode dropping in a few minutes too lol 😂
this at the Gunks? love your videos!!!
SHAMS you got it! Thanks lol
Good section of the Nears!
Very cool, might have to start using the clove hitch too. I use a very similar setup in trees with a ring and ring cambium saver, that has two different sized rings, if I'm blocking on the small side, I use an alpine butterfly, on the large side I use a double alpine butterfly, because it's larger and doesn't get jammed in the large ring. Both methods are backed up by a biner, but not around the working side, if I did that the retrieval side would always have to follow the same path as the working side.
If you want to top rope solo with two lines, but only have one rope, you could still use this method, all you need is a light retrieval line. Just set up two knot blocks in the middle of the rope, and clip the retrieval line to the rope... Also eliminates clipping in to the retrieval side.
raphael beinhauer oh that’s a very interesting idea having another line attached to the working end 🤔That way you can use two devices! Very smart!
Come to think of it, I think I have done something like that. And the problem you get is when the one rope Is weighted and unweighted it want to spin or twist. Then it just twist the two ropes together and might just give you more trouble. But I haven’t tried it the way you are describing with climbing ropes, I have experienced it with 3/4 in rope and tage lines. Would have to experiment with that I think it’s a cool idea!
@@BetaClimbers I don't know if we're talking about the same thing, I didn't say anything about attaching a line to the working end...
What I was proposing was feeding both ends of the line through the anchor in the same direction (preferably through different chainlinks, but using only the rings allows you to set up your anchor without access to the end, interesting...), then setting up the knot block in the bight that is formed in the middle of the line, basically your setup, but you take the retrieval side and pass it through the anchor again. Since you don't have a retrieval side anymore, attach a small line for that purpose
raphael beinhauer I’m a very Visual person that’s why I’m a TH-camr🤣 I’ll have to think about this when I got some more free time I’m on the run today! Lol
raphael beinhauer okay I see what your saying now! Yeah now that I think about it you couldnt attach anything to the working end because it wouldn’t pull through anyway. But your saying having two lines going through the anchor and then pulling down the block knot with a tag line. Very interesting. I don’t know how difficult it would be having two lines through the chains but it sounds doable. Lol I think you just made a super safe MR clean method video idea! 🤣
I'd say to socks are because of ticks. Keep up the great content.
You would be 100 percent right lol thanks 🤙🏻
You mentioned lowering off of one strand (grigri) but didn't mention that choosing the wrong strand will result in death. You also had a personal anchor that was so short that you were unable to weight your rappel before removing your personal anchor. This is the best failsafe for the most common errors associated with this method, including lowering off the wrong strand. You discussed how this is an advanced technique that only advanced climbers should utilize and I concur, but will add that you are not advanced enough to teach this technique in a safe, responsible way.
Moop Beef Those are some great extra tips appreciate the comment! 🤙🏻
I'm with Moop on this one. I like your videos but you're so spacey and cut so many corners that I'm worried its going to catch up to you.
Can you use a geigei for solo climbing like that?
love the socks
Can you make some stickers for the merch store?
Josef Berns great idea I did make some stickers I took them down lol 😂 I’ll add them back up this week!
What do you mean by “wear things out” if you use a grigri to rappel off 1 strand?
Steven Miller normally if you use a gri gri to rappel then one end is tied into your harness then run through the anchors then into your grigri. So as you start to move down the rope is sliding through the anchor while being weighted. If you use an ATC then you can rappel down both strands and the rope doesn’t slide though the anchor, until your weight is off and you pull it through.
@@BetaClimbers I feel like if you use the side of the rope that is safe to weight by itself you could safely rapell with the grigri without the rope running through the chains or rings at all. However if you pick the wrong strand it could kill you. Is that the method you were going to use before you decided on the atc?
1993ianb correct if you look up my video on tag lines you can see this method more practically in use for a “long rappel”
Probably explained in another video, but: what are u using for top rope solo climbing without hands on belay? Micro traxion?
Saúl Nogueras an altered micro trax you will have to watch my other top rope solo videos for more info on that.
@@BetaClimbers have you considered a tibloc? It seems to me as useful and half the price
Also, no need to modify afaik
Saúl Nogueras I find those to grabby I haven’t yet found anything that glides up a rope as freely as a trax yet but I have some things being sent to me I’ll be reviewing soon.
Some interesting ideas. I may still prefer tying a BFK in the middle of my rope that I then attach to the anchor with two locking biners - something about that big of a honking knot inspires confidence when I can't see what's going on up there- and then I also know both rope strands will work. In this way, you would perhaps need to thread the rope through the chains at the end, but with your method, you'll still have to thread them - just at the beginning. Also it's just my luck that when I pull the rope, that knot and locking biner at the end is going to get stuck in a crack or a tree or something. Also would you *really* walk away from a TRS setup to get lunch? I'd be worried that someone would screw with my gear - there's a few written accident reports about climbers finding what they thought were TRS setups that they then used, only to find out that they were stuck ropes!
I thought you could do the run through in a classroom type scenario before taking it out to a climb. It would give better camera visuals to what you’re doing etc. Thanks for sharing this method though.
What is the reason why you cant just run the ropes through both rings and repel down both ropes on an atc? Or can you, and this method is just helpful if you want to repel off one rope?
Nice!
7:44 does anyone knows the name of this song?
thanks for this one
Socks like that for ticks?
Thank you, man!
Did you ever try to use the petzl rescucender as a brake while rappeling, instead of a prusik or a shunt?
I own one but I haven’t tried that. Is that a thing?
I learned something new today. So i dont mind trying TR solo with one line because normal TR im on one line, but.... Only using one device as a fall arrester kind of creeps me out.
Hey josh I'm very new to climbing and trying to learn was wondering after you threaded the rope through the rings if you made knots on the ends so you can't rapell of the rope? My guess was you did not but the risk is not there because you can clearly see that both ends touch the ground, am I right ?
That’s is correct. It’s a very good idea to just get in the habit of tying knots in the end anyway. However if the climb below you is a vertical crack the hazard then there is a hazard of the knot getting stuck. In that scenario I recommend you tie into the end so the knot is always with you in fact id always just recommend tying into the end. Unless there is something for a loop to get stuck in. These are all things you need to know before you start going outdoors. So it’s always best to find some one that has been at it for 10 years or more.
Beginner, but wouldn't it be an idea to tie an overhand knot or figure 8 below the clove hitch in case the clove hitch slides. Thanks for the vids.
Could you just use bunny ears on a figure 8 and clip each into a anchor, then it wouldn’t matter which line you climb off of?
Great video Josh! Now we have to know what's up with the socks! 😆
Keeps the stickers from getting down into your boots
use the gri gri "and rappel of one end".....make sure it's the right one :)
Not sure if it’s something you could ever record, but i think it could make some good content to see what you do professionally. How these methods relate or transfer to the profession.
Nolan Gormley I have some clips of the stuff I do but unfortunately a lot of it is stuck behind non disclosure agreements. I do plan on finding some work arounds a on that in future.
BetaClimbers understandable. I doubt many clients want videos on how to climb their stuff 😂
Hay!! How dare you promote teaching these techniques!
I didn’t see any redundancy in that teleportation!!! Maaaaaaaaaaa
Rick Miller 🤣🤣🤣
Might make sense to tie some cordage or a rag to the end of the line that you *are* supposed to climb on.
Right as long as you do something another option is just leave your device on the rope. Point is make sure you don’t make that mistake Because there are plenty climbers that have died that way.
Nice video. What about Mr. Clean trad lead rope solo????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Nice one :-)
are the socks for bugs?
partykrew666 lol yeah the chiggers are crazy in those bushes
what's the song called?
Graham Mutter I use a service called epidemic sounds to make my music.
But... what is the mechanism that captures your progress? Did I miss it?
Yeah I have a few videos on that.
Which self-capture device are you using?
wU69pRspi7jtlPfpzk4b in this episode I am only using a trax which is pretty risky and not recommended that’s why I didn’t want to get into it on this episode. Lol it’s better to have some more back ups and I’m testing some more tools out in future episodes.
Call it a biner block in canyoning. Minus the clipping the other side.
Teleportation, of course I always knew that existed.
808alldevon you unlock that after you climb 5.16
2 things... 1: keep making sick videos and you won't be able to use the word "underground" to describe your channel. 2: keep wearing your pants tucked into your socks like that and you'll start a fashion trend... i just hope you are able to make a few more cool vids before the government snatches you up for testing and to learn your teleportation technique. Teleporting is a much safer method than repelling and extends the life of gear.
derek atwood BIG FACTS!
I used to tuck my pants into my socks when riding my bike (to keep my pants out of the chain (more to keep the dirty oil/grease off my pants)). Still do, sometimes.
Bill Currie haha yeah I do the same thing. The chiggers/ticks here are pretty bad right now so I just make sure I hike the bushy sections with my socks over my pants lol 😂
whats up with socks?
Beal makes rope marker
Did you just invent Bobi Socks!
Firetip 🤣
Cool. Unfortunately, we couldn’t see anything.
I like this method, but this is not for beginners. A lot of places for mistakes here
Nah Ryan Tilley is way better but you’re a solid second
If you dropped the rope down when you moved the rope, then you would wait somebody to help you 🤭
Where’s that stopper knot and second hand?
Joel Wafford good comment those are important features to have. If you ever watch my tag line video one important thing to remember, for anyone that reads this, do not forget to untie your end knot when it’s time to pull the rope threw. That’s why I usually recommend tying into the end.
@@BetaClimbers Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I meant for when you were rappelling, I would rather figure out the hassle of getting my rope down (if I were to forget to untie the stopper), than rapping off the end of my rope. Also, (random question) in one of your past videos I really digged that rug in your living room, anyway you could spare me on where you got it lol
Thanks
Joel Wafford lol I got it in Ikea haha 🤙🏻
Meh
Nothing new here except some made up name
The hero we deserve!