You're a DIYer after my own heart. When I plan my projects, I seem to always add options to the original project. I call doing this "Running the tab up."
I never thought of a solar panel to charge my battery. With load shedding hitting us hard in South Africa, this is such a nice setup for my generator at home to reduce the nuisance noise.
I have watched several generator shed videos & yours is one of the best. It looks great, the solar panel & heat tape on the exhaust both get an A+ rating & being wired to code is the only way to go. It seems the only way to quiet them down is to build the generator shed out of concrete.
James Thanks for your comment. This installation is going on two years now and I fire things up every couple of months. That solar panel keeps the battery fully charged and it cost me $25.
It occured to me when designing my gen enclosure that the air cooled engine already has a high flow fan on it. So instead of adding a fan, just use 8" flex ducting to that engine fan on the front of the motor ( and baffle that intake ). Add some 3"-4" ducting for the carb, and just let the exhaust vent itself through the (also baffled) air exhaust vent.
That’s pretty cool. The one thing to remember is heat rises. I would want something on top if possible. Also maybe a blower like they use on boats. They explode occasional from the fumes getting trapped in a small area. It goes on first for 5 minutes to clear the fumes.
Gene Thanks for your comments. The vent that brings fresh air in and the exhaust fan, not to mention the heat tape on the exhaust pipe keep heat and fumes at a reasonable level.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
Agreed you only want one path for electricity to short down. If your panel is grounded and your generator also has a ground it can electrify your generator. And than you when you touch it and than you get electrocuted. And yes the poster is right the generator should be connected to a grounded system. So when you are tied into the house main panel or sub panel it will be grounded and your system and generator have a grounded path. But you should not have an additional ground rod attached to the generator. If you were just running outlets on a job site than yes a ground rod or ground contact do need to be happening. Hope this helps. Always have a certified electrician inspect your system and advise you.
Not sure how to extend the exhaust on that model. Research that on your own. Have a licensed electrician do the installation from the generator to your electrical panel. Locate the generator shed where you can tap off your natural gas system. Have a plumber hook up to your generator. Do not want to mess with gasoline or propane tanks in a outage. Constant flow is the cheapest and best.
It would be hard to do an install for less than you spent. Not a criticism because I did the opposite. Not sure if that fan is adequate for the job. Buy a remote thermometer and stick it inside and monitor temps. Should not go more than 10-15 F above ambient. In my case I have a 5kw Honda and ended up with a 16" ACInfinity fan that pumps out 3,000 cfm. Think too about a bimetallic Normally open switch hooked into the low oil circuit that will shut the generator down if the compartment overheats (fan failure/fire etc.). There are two good TH-cam videos that show you have to do this. This does not apply to this install but today most generator 110 outlets are ground fault. These are too sensitive so if you have a fan plugged into one of these replace the outlet with a standard one.
Wow! Only $6400. Put mine together for around $600. Have not had to use it in over a year now. Hopefully you will get your $6400 investment back in your power outages in the future. Was this an advertisement?😱
I have a couple of questions but may not get back here to see if I get replies. 1. Do you need to earth the genset when the house is already earthed? In Australia the house earth stake is usually located reasonably near to the meter board if not directly underneath it. Also all the neutrals in the house are connected to it in an M.E.N. (Main Earth Neutral), which is what we use in this country. I ask that because earths are all about safety and the house earth should not only be capable of allowing shorted current to travel along it but have sufficiently low resistance to earth so the current wants to take that path (path of least resistance). Supplying a secondary earth may not be the safest method as it's resistance has not been calculated and may be very poor and thus carry higher current - the generator certainly doesn't need this earth unless if I got this right, it is used when two or more gensets are connected together. Earth leakage circuit breakers now called RCDs need to be quick acting and the earth closest to it needs to be very low resistance (as per code) and is integral in tripping the ELCB breaker on that circuit should a fault occur. 2. That exhaust tape is a great idea Steve and I will steal that method from you when I build my sound box (as I call it). But I will build so that the hot pipe is closer to the wall so that less pipe is heating up the enclosure. There is enough heat being generated by the engine and probably the copper coils already without trapping exhaust pipe heat in there too. Also I saw a video where an external baffle box was mentioned which forces the exhaust noise to travel back and forth inside it, thus reducing the final sound level exiting the baffle box. 25% of generator noise is the exhaust pipe apparently. Thanks for the video, much appreciated.
Jed Thanks for your comments on earth grounding my portable generator. When you are terminating the generator wire into the home electrical panel, YOU DO NOT NEED TO EARTH GROUND, as shown in my video. In fact, it can be dangerous to double ground. I have removed the ground on the outside of my generator shed.
If you would have shot this video in LANDSCAPE MODE, instead of WORTHLESS HORESE BLINDER VERTICAL MODE there would be no need to be panning back and forth.
Would have been great if the picture was normal size. You talking about things and aiming at other things. Have no idea what you used. So confusing. Should have used a regular video camera. That is soooooo narrow and impossible to take it all in. 😞
You're a DIYer after my own heart. When I plan my projects, I seem to always add options to the original project. I call doing this "Running the tab up."
Excellent looking setup. I like the solar battery Maintnance setup.
Very clean looking build. I like the pallet to cut down the ground vibration.
Thanks for your comments. I also used u bolts to attach the generator to the pallet to cut down on vibration.
I never thought of a solar panel to charge my battery. With load shedding hitting us hard in South Africa, this is such a nice setup for my generator at home to reduce the nuisance noise.
I have watched several generator shed videos & yours is one of the best. It looks great, the solar panel & heat tape on the exhaust both get an A+ rating & being wired to code is the only way to go. It seems the only way to quiet them down is to build the generator shed out of concrete.
Thank you for your great review!
wow solar panel idea is awesome, never thought of that for battery, hands off takes care of itself to keep topped off on charge!
James
Thanks for your comment. This installation is going on two years now and I fire things up every couple of months. That solar panel keeps the battery fully charged and it cost me $25.
Excellent build. Thanks so much for the vid!!
It occured to me when designing my gen enclosure that the air cooled engine already has a high flow fan on it. So instead of adding a fan, just use 8" flex ducting to that engine fan on the front of the motor ( and baffle that intake ). Add some 3"-4" ducting for the carb, and just let the exhaust vent itself through the (also baffled) air exhaust vent.
That’s pretty cool. The one thing to remember is heat rises. I would want something on top if possible. Also maybe a blower like they use on boats. They explode occasional from the fumes getting trapped in a small area. It goes on first for 5 minutes to clear the fumes.
Gene
Thanks for your comments. The vent that brings fresh air in and the exhaust fan, not to mention the heat tape on the exhaust pipe keep heat and fumes at a reasonable level.
We have used the th-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y for probably 30 hours with our camper and it’s been great! The noise level is really only noticeable when running the AC and other appliances like the microwave, hair dryer, or coffee pot. It’s not huge like other ones and it has wheels so even at 90lbs, I can move it!
This is magnificent! My compliments
Nice set up!
Excellent pro set up
Nice build
Thank you for your reply!
Hello, nice rig. where do you buy the heat tape ?
Exhaust Manifold heat tape AutoZone
@@steveexon6421 Thanks !
love it! but I live in south Louisiana and it must be able to handle 150mph + winds...I will use your vent and grounding method...
You can look up a UT video "intro to grounding and bonding a generator". When and when not to ground.
I was looking for this comment! Also, he needs to disconnect the "neutral bond" at the generator head after he disconnects the ground rod.
I would check code for your ground. Having a double ground can cause current in a short to come back to genset if your main panel is grounded.
Al
Thank you for the info on a double ground. I will have my certified electrician look into that today.
Grounding is required if the generator is connected to the electrical panel.
Agreed you only want one path for electricity to short down. If your panel is grounded and your generator also has a ground it can electrify your generator. And than you when you touch it and than you get electrocuted. And yes the poster is right the generator should be connected to a grounded system. So when you are tied into the house main panel or sub panel it will be grounded and your system and generator have a grounded path. But you should not have an additional ground rod attached to the generator. If you were just running outlets on a job site than yes a ground rod or ground contact do need to be happening. Hope this helps. Always have a certified electrician inspect your system and advise you.
Where did you buy the exhaust components at?
Threaded pipe Hardware store
Manifold heat tape Auto store
Love it!
Very nice shed.
I'm going to do this soon.
I'm buying a Duromax 12000EH.
Your thoughts?
Not sure how to extend the exhaust on that model. Research that on your own. Have a licensed electrician do the installation from the generator to your electrical panel. Locate the generator shed where you can tap off your natural gas system. Have a plumber hook up to your generator.
Do not want to mess with gasoline or propane tanks in a outage. Constant flow is the cheapest and best.
Can you give details on solar charger for battery?
Eco-Worthy 5 volt on Amazon $25.95
It would be hard to do an install for less than you spent. Not a criticism because I did the opposite. Not sure if that fan is adequate for the job. Buy a remote thermometer and stick it inside and monitor temps. Should not go more than 10-15 F above ambient. In my case I have a 5kw Honda and ended up with a 16" ACInfinity fan that pumps out 3,000 cfm. Think too about a bimetallic Normally open switch hooked into the low oil circuit that will shut the generator down if the compartment overheats (fan failure/fire etc.). There are two good TH-cam videos that show you have to do this. This does not apply to this install but today most generator 110 outlets are ground fault. These are too sensitive so if you have a fan plugged into one of these replace the outlet with a standard one.
Electrical box mounted in a movable plastic storage box is to code?
The storage box is held down on the concrete pad and block wall by Cobra 2 3/4 inch concrete anchors.
whats safe about that next to your house like that?
For what it is worth. I stop using any kind of foam insulation. Flammable. I use Rockwood. Also bugs. Rodents don't seem to mess with Rockwood.
Thanks for you comments
AP Foil Insulation is non flammable and is actually a flame retardant. Google AP Foil Insulation.
You know a 20kw with an automatic transfer switch from Kohler only costs approx. $6400? Comes with an enclosure and is safer and automatic
Wow! Only $6400. Put mine together for around $600. Have not had to use it in over a year now. Hopefully you will get your $6400 investment back in your power outages in the future.
Was this an advertisement?😱
I have a couple of questions but may not get back here to see if I get replies.
1. Do you need to earth the genset when the house is already earthed? In Australia the house earth stake is usually located reasonably near to the meter board if not directly underneath it. Also all the neutrals in the house are connected to it in an M.E.N. (Main Earth Neutral), which is what we use in this country.
I ask that because earths are all about safety and the house earth should not only be capable of allowing shorted current to travel along it but have sufficiently low resistance to earth so the current wants to take that path (path of least resistance). Supplying a secondary earth may not be the safest method as it's resistance has not been calculated and may be very poor and thus carry higher current - the generator certainly doesn't need this earth unless if I got this right, it is used when two or more gensets are connected together.
Earth leakage circuit breakers now called RCDs need to be quick acting and the earth closest to it needs to be very low resistance (as per code) and is integral in tripping the ELCB breaker on that circuit should a fault occur.
2. That exhaust tape is a great idea Steve and I will steal that method from you when I build my sound box (as I call it). But I will build so that the hot pipe is closer to the wall so that less pipe is heating up the enclosure. There is enough heat being generated by the engine and probably the copper coils already without trapping exhaust pipe heat in there too.
Also I saw a video where an external baffle box was mentioned which forces the exhaust noise to travel back and forth inside it, thus reducing the final sound level exiting the baffle box. 25% of generator noise is the exhaust pipe apparently.
Thanks for the video, much appreciated.
Jed
Thanks for your comments on earth grounding my portable generator. When you are terminating the generator wire into the home electrical panel, YOU DO NOT NEED TO EARTH GROUND, as shown in my video. In fact, it can be dangerous to double ground. I have removed the ground on the outside of my generator shed.
Nice
If you would have shot this video in LANDSCAPE MODE, instead of WORTHLESS HORESE BLINDER VERTICAL MODE there would be no need to be panning back and forth.
Those wire nuts are not code.
Nuts!
Would have been great if the picture was normal size. You talking about things and aiming at other things. Have no idea what you used. So confusing. Should have used a regular video camera. That is soooooo narrow and impossible to take it all in. 😞
You need a car muffler. Gou dont care about the sound.
EIO 🤪
Sloooooowwwww!