It's not, but it's on my list of "improvement ideas I'd love to do someday if I get the $" 🙂 We get pretty consistent temperatures below freezing during the winter with some occasional lows below 0'F.
What about the manifolds? Left and right? Back two hoses. Also, when you are ready to take the boat out. Do you fill the hoses up with water prior to starting the boat up in the lake? Or can the engine be started empty?
@@Hf0205 So in step 2 of the video, I drained them completely by removing the hose from the lowest point. There is no need to backfill them with antifreeze if 99% of the water is removed. Regarding start-up in the spring, I just hook it up to the hose/muffs and let it run for a few minutes. This evacuates the antifreeze into my yard which in my mind is better than it going into the lake. It's really as simple as that - no need to manually fill the hoses with water.
Thanks. My manifolds have drain plugs. Right now I have everything drained. I was going to pour down antifreeze in each hose to clear push any remaining water out. Then close the plugs and fill up. Some articles I read that leaving antifreeze in will help seal and lubricant the seals. But make sure to use non ethanol antifreeze like west marine brand.
Incorrect! You are NOT flushing out any remaining moisture!... you are introducing antifreeze. I do this exact method and I have dubbed it the common sense method. One more thing, buy a product called corrosion x and spray it everywhere on the motor that you see rust forming or are concerned about the for.ation of rust. It contains lanolin which was used by knights to keep their swords rust free.
Lisle makes a 10 dollar, hooked hose seal breaker that really helps. Its called a hose removal tool
Thanks! I appreciate the tip!
Would it be overkill to pour coolant into the 2 tubes about the 2 you removed or do those feed to where the plugs you removed go?
I'm sure it wouldn't hurt, but I wasn't taught to do that by my marine mechanic so I've never done it myself and I've never had any problems 🤷♂
That motor is stuffed in there tight...dayum
Dosent look like your garage is insulated. How cold does it get where u live? Thanks
It's not, but it's on my list of "improvement ideas I'd love to do someday if I get the $" 🙂 We get pretty consistent temperatures below freezing during the winter with some occasional lows below 0'F.
What about the manifolds? Left and right? Back two hoses.
Also, when you are ready to take the boat out. Do you fill the hoses up with water prior to starting the boat up in the lake? Or can the engine be started empty?
@@Hf0205 So in step 2 of the video, I drained them completely by removing the hose from the lowest point. There is no need to backfill them with antifreeze if 99% of the water is removed. Regarding start-up in the spring, I just hook it up to the hose/muffs and let it run for a few minutes. This evacuates the antifreeze into my yard which in my mind is better than it going into the lake. It's really as simple as that - no need to manually fill the hoses with water.
Thanks. My manifolds have drain plugs. Right now I have everything drained. I was going to pour down antifreeze in each hose to clear push any remaining water out. Then close the plugs and fill up. Some articles I read that leaving antifreeze in will help seal and lubricant the seals. But make sure to use non ethanol antifreeze like west marine brand.
I have a 2002 v8 7.3 mpi mericruiser bravo 1
All that hose removal frustration gone!... for 10 bucks--you are welcome🎉
Incorrect! You are NOT flushing out any remaining moisture!... you are introducing antifreeze. I do this exact method and I have dubbed it the common sense method. One more thing, buy a product called corrosion x and spray it everywhere on the motor that you see rust forming or are concerned about the for.ation of rust. It contains lanolin which was used by knights to keep their swords rust free.