Thank you for the video, just yesterday I was working on a 1990 Johnson 15hp short shaft and I had to replace the brass connector with a new one. When I got it back together I noticed the shifter was not as smooth shifting. It shifts but kind of hangs some what. I believe I screwed the lower shift rod in all the way making it slightly off just a little bit. Now I know how to measure it and adjust it to work more smoothly. Just subscribed.
@@OmFishing Yes sir, I dropped the lower unit on my 15hp Johnson again yesterday and done the measurement. I did have to re-adjust the lower shift rod by turning it outward by 1 complete turn. That put it in between the measurements you provided in the video just under 7/16 of a inch. It shifts like butter now, again thank you for the information.
Thank you for the video. I have adjusted the shift lever on my motor trying to achieve correct shifting but I had not thought to check the height of the lower rod.
You did a great job on this video. i have a 1979 9.9 Evinrude & having trouble getting shift linkage back together. What year is the one in the video?On mine there is barely enough room to use a very small screwdriver to tighten the screw into the brass connector. You have much more room on yours.
thanks for all the great info,i just wish all these youtubers that are going to use measurements would learn how to measure it's 15/16" not 7/16",some youtubers tell you one teaspoon full and throw in a hand full, which is way more than a teaspoon,i don't mean this i a bad way,thanks again for all the good info..
Hey, just wanted to say thanks! I love doing things myself! And you have made working on my 04 Johnson 30hp as easy as working on my trucks! I really do appreciate all your great efforts!!!!!!!
Question, the linkage that is in the foot going to the gears, it has a bend in it does the bend, make the linkage closer to the water pump or towards the front of the foot housing
Awesome video.Thank you so much. Im Having problems with this same thing. Exept my outboard is a 1983 Johnson 20" Long Sail Electricstart and as a sailboat outboard is quite extended so my conecting bracket that you show on your video is not right near the water pump on the lower unit like yours, but at the top of the next extention hardly sticking out of it. after replacing the waterpump and all contents now Im having to open it up because I haden't put the set screw right and couldnt get it to go to forward gear As Im putting it back together the shift rod with its conecting bracket like yours is not long enough to conect to the shift rod coming out of the motor upper housing. Question: On a extended Sail 20" 1983 Jhonson is the measurement you were speaking about that you took from the top of the housing to the highest point on the shift stick bracket the same? 13/32th- 7/16? Would mine be from the extention housing top to the highest pointof my shift rod bracket and would it be the same measuremet? or would it be another measurement? What do you think?
The manual that I was using said that shift in neurtal 5/16 min 11/32 max. Measuring shift rod height top of connector to gearcase. All the measurements was on the lower unit.
Hi I know this is anoldvideo in internet age but hoping you could help. I replaced water pump and cleaned carby following your videos worked great thanks. Then for some reason I took the powerheadoff. Now theres a rod that comes out of the right side of the powerhead and goes into what I can only describe as a cog looking piece. This rod is obviously connected to the throatle arm as when you turn the throatle the rod turns, in turn turning the cog effecting rotation on the throatle. Stupidly I didn't note the position this cog was in when I removed the power head and think the the cog must be in the wrong position as I dont get full turn on throatle. As this, lets call it half cog as it only has the cogs on half the wheel with a square slot in the center to recive the rod frompowerhead, could you tell me if the spiked half of that wheel should be facining the right side of the manifold and the smooth half the head, or the spikes facing head or front of engine, as it rotates 360° and me being stupid not to have taken note now have an engine that wants to run well except for this 1 stupid mistake! Your videos are fantastic and some of the most helpful on the internet. Keep it up please. Hope I made it clear and thanks in advance. Gus
I think you will have to send me a picture for me to help you out on this one. If you can send one to my email. omfishing@yahoo.com Then let me know on this comment you sent it.
Gday mate from down under. Great video, would you happen to know the measurement for a 94 15hp johnson short shaft. Mine grinds when shifting into reverse. Cheers mate.
So that linkage rod coming down from the top is angled at the bottom? It looks like it's bent, and I am having trouble lining my linkage. It's starts into the retainer, but won't fully engage.
@@OmFishing Yeah I got it, I bungied up the motor not to slip, and ran a punch lining up the cutout in the shaft to the linkage. It was a pain in the butt.
I'm gonna go out on a limb here....that gearbox looks almost identical to my 94 model 15hp, so would I be right in saying the adjustment would be exactly the same for this motor?
So I finally got around to removing the leg and checking the shaft height. What would possibly cause the shift shaft to have so much free play. From neutral I can move the rod a good 5-8mm before it even thinks about engaging gear. I had it on the water 2 weeks ago and couldn't get it into reverse. 94 Johnson 15hp.
Is the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual the B735-2 version or another you might suggest for my 2-stroke 1996 Johnson 9.9HP outboard Model No: J10REDD. Thanks.
I use the OMC Service manual for the Model I am working on. I also have the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual B733 version. My version is for 1991/1994 year Model. That covers my 1991 Evinrude 30 HP and the 1993 Evinrude 225 Ocean Pro. The only difference between us and a marine mechanic is about $100 dollars a hour. I go through the service manual and set everything to the specifications when I install or make a adjustment. I don't think all mechanic's take the time or have the time to do that. Thanks for commenting and watching. Stay Safe.
The motor runs very well. idles ok and does what it is supposed to do. Until about 20 minutes out, she starts to lose power and then dies out. If I anchor it for about 15 minutes, she starts right back up strong and then in about another 15minutes she dies again. Engine cowling is quite warm. Any antidotes? Respectfully Denniz Stern
The electrical system is generally the weakest link in the chain. That is where I would start. When you said it starts to lose power and then dies out. When it is dead have you check to see if you have spark to the spark plugs. Did you try a new set of spark plugs. Start with the easy stuff first don't assume it is something major.
Hey one thing that will cause this problem is a bad condenser. Once it heats up it fails and after it cools down again it works until it heats up. Usually caused by expansion of lead wire internally …….. opens when hot closes when cool. Had this problem many times with older outboards especially if they are used a log. Intermittent problems are the worst.
If the motor still has its safety on it it will not start in gear. You are going to have to get it out of gear before you can do much with it. Make sure you take the spark plugs wires off before you start working with the prop. You might need have to drop the lower unit is all else fails.
I don't know if you have a video on this or not but I have an 86 evinrude 15hp. I was pulling on it and tuning the carb and now the neutral safety won't let me pull in neutral but it will in gear. Will this fix it or do you have a video about it?
My 15 hp throttle handle has to be at idle for me to pull the rope. If it is above idle it will lock the pull cord. Mine will start in gear it does not matter it is all throttle position. I will see what I can fine for a video.
Got a question .... I have a Nissan 70 , 2 stroke that won’t go In neutral . I can take the shifter forward and all the way in reverse without resistance . What do you think the problem is ?
With out see and feeling the shift handle. My guess would be. If it shifts to forward and reverse the transmission is ok because neutral is just between the two. I think the linkage is out of adjustment.
I just got an old Johnson 15 hp and it stuck in neutral. The shifter itself won’t move into forward or reverse. I was hoping not to have to take off the lower unit. Is there another way I can go about this issue or will I have to take off the lower unit?
You can only hope that just the shift handle is stuck. The last one I did the shift rod where it enters the lower unit was all corroded. That is why it would not shift. Good luck
On my 1978 you adjust it from the top of the motor. The manual reads 1 Remove fuel hose on carburetor 2 Remove cotter pin and washer from shift lever to link 3 Place lever and hub assembly and shift lever in reverse position 4 Adjust link to align with hole in shift lever 5 Shorten link one turn more for installation slight pressure will be necessary on shift lever when reinstalling link to shift lever. 6 install washer and cotter pin 7 Connect fuel hose to carburetor 8 Check and adjust starter lockout pawl clearance 9 Check and adjust start in neutral switch, if electric start. This how I did mine. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey, great videos! I've watched a bunch of your stuff. Do you happen to know the measurement for a 20hp evinrude? When I ordered a coil for it, it was the older style, but I'm not sure of the year unfortunately.
@@TheSaavedra25 my shifter worked fine. You don't want to screw the shift linkage all the way down or it will not shift correctly Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Healthy!!
I was trying to adjust mine counter clockwise and the whole shift rod unthreaded. Now i cant get it to screw back in. Any idea how to screw it back in?
Yes the 9.9 does run I am trying to find some parts for it. Some were missing when I got it. The twist throttle shaft, Ide knob and pull cord rewind. I don’t want to buy them new
OK, well this is interesting, I have never seen a dimension given for the lower shift rod height on these 9.9/15s, where did you find this spec? The OMC manuals I have used always said to screw the lower shift rod down completely into the gearcase until it seats, then just back it out enough so the bend is facing forward. I realize you were just trying to make a quick video, but there are a few points to expand on. First, shift system adjustment is crucial, it must be correct, or you will have shifting problems and expensive repairs in the near future.I know you know this, but want to point out that the brass shift rod connector on your engine is broken, it will not clamp well like that. Connecting the shift rods is a step that is often times done incorrectly, which leads to shift problems/expensive repairs. Once the gearcase comes down, it is important to look at the threads on the brass clam screw, these are often stripped. The expensive SS screw must be replaced at that point, please do not try to substitute that screw. With the gearcase off, thread the screw into the connector, to ensure the threads are OK before reassembly. The crazy looking SS lockwasher must be used as well. Probably not a bad idea to check the lower screw on the connector to ensure it is tight before reassembly also. I usually pry the upper clamp on the brass connector open just slightly before reassembly to ensure it will go over the upper shift rod without a fight. Please be sure the oring is in place on the driveshaft, and coat the splines liberally with OMC moly lube. Probably a good idea to sneak some emery up to the water tube to ensure it slips into the grommet easily also. It is probably best to have an assistant help install the gearcase so you can be sure the hole in the connector is lined up with the groove in the shift rod before installing and tightening the connector screw...Once the gearcase is installed, you need to check the detent adjustment also. Again, I mention all these things because what seems like an easy process can lead to big trouble and expense if not done correctly. Finally, I urge owners to not use their engines, if chattering or improper shifting is experienced after gearcase removal/installation. These are signs that something is very wrong. You still have a chance to fix it now, but continuing to use the engine will lead to clutch dog/gear lug problems that are very expensive to repair...
I got my information form the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson outboard shop manual pg 585 it reads. Shift the gearcase into NEUTRAL. Measure the distance between the top of the gearcase to exhaust housing mating surface and the highest point of the shift rod connector. The measurement should be between 13/32 and 7/16 in with the flat surface of the shift rod connector facing the drive shaft. Rotate the shift rod as necessary to obtain the specified distance and position the flat side of the connector toward the drive shaft.
OK, well that conflicts with what is prescribed in the OMC manuals. But I have had to alter the adjustments even after following the OMC instructions. Again, it is super important to get all this stuff right, or you end up with big/expensive clutch dog problems....
In the video I had the shift handle in forward to make the shift rod at its longest point and I had the lower unit in reverse so the shift rod was at its longest setting. This way there was enough space between the two cases to connect the shift linkage together. When I pulled the shift handle to reverse it brought the cases together.
So I was able to set the timing and carb linkage today. When I got the motor the cam for the carb was loose and would not push on the carb till almost full throttle So I tighten it up and did not realize that the throttle butterfly is on a spring tension and has to be adjusted at same time as the cam. This is my first outboard and it's completely different than working on motorcycle and lawnmower engines.so today I re adjusted everything, and have to wait a week to get on the river because of flooding.
I know that all the rivers around here are flooding too. So much rain the ocean near shore is not good fishing either. I guess we will just have to set it out. Hope your engine runs well let me know.
I’m trying to remove my lower unit. 1981 Evinrude 25 horse. I don’t see that shift linkage on mine like in this video. Anyone know how to get it off. I just took my 8 bolts out and my pivot pin but only comes down about 1 1/2” and stops
Hey i have a 1960 fastwin 18hp with some problems.It runs when the motor is cold but wont start again after it warms up.I have rebuilt the carburetor and had it checked he said it was good.But when you squeeze the primer bulb i have gas come out of the carburetor throat and the motor wont start.Suggestions please.Also cant locate fuel pump repair kit.
If your getting gas running out of the carburetor when you squeeze the primer bulb it could be just a little dirt in the inlet needle valve. I have taken my carburetor apart and cleaned it put it back together and it run 10 minutes and start running bad. I have taken the carb back off and it was full of junk. That is way I put the Fuel filter water separator on my Jon Boat a little over kill but no PROBLEMS sense then. I think my problem was when the fuel shortage was going I was buying gas off the bottom of the tank at the gas station.
@@Ghhonhg3245 If we are talking about the prop slipping you can get them repaired at a prop shop. The rubber in the center gets bad. If it is not in good shape I would replace it.
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This is the second time I’ve used this video it’s greatly underrated. All the small engine repair guys are cursing you for giving away the secret
Just the tip I needed for splitting my shifter rod.
Thank you for the video, just yesterday I was working on a 1990 Johnson 15hp short shaft and I had to replace the brass connector with a new one. When I got it back together I noticed the shifter was not as smooth shifting. It shifts but kind of hangs some what. I believe I screwed the lower shift rod in all the way making it slightly off just a little bit. Now I know how to measure it and adjust it to work more smoothly. Just subscribed.
Thank you so much for subscribing to my channel. Keep watching and stay safe.
@@OmFishing Yes sir, I dropped the lower unit on my 15hp Johnson again yesterday and done the measurement. I did have to re-adjust the lower shift rod by turning it outward by 1 complete turn. That put it in between the measurements you provided in the video just under 7/16 of a inch. It shifts like butter now, again thank you for the information.
@@NLINE7 Happy to help. Stay Safe.
Thank you for doing these 9.9 videos they have been a life saver
Happy to help. Stay Safe on the water.
Thank you for the video. I have adjusted the shift lever on my motor trying to achieve correct shifting but I had not thought to check the height of the lower rod.
Thanks hope it helps.
You did a great job on this video. i have a 1979 9.9 Evinrude & having trouble getting shift linkage back together. What year is the one in the video?On mine there is barely enough room to use a very small screwdriver to tighten the screw into the brass connector. You have much more room on yours.
thanks for all the great info,i just wish all these youtubers that are going to use measurements would learn how to measure it's 15/16" not 7/16",some youtubers tell you one teaspoon full and throw in a hand full, which is way more than a teaspoon,i don't mean this i a bad way,thanks again for all the good info..
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for commenting.
That clicker sound is nice for ringtone!
Hey, just wanted to say thanks! I love doing things myself! And you have made working on my 04 Johnson 30hp as easy as working on my trucks!
I really do appreciate all your great efforts!!!!!!!
Thank you and as always keep watching.
I just watched the 2nd video on this, where you have the TSB information.. it was great! Thanks again OM!!!
Thanks you Brother great video. Take care and stay safe.
Question, the linkage that is in the foot going to the gears, it has a bend in it does the bend, make the linkage closer to the water pump or towards the front of the foot housing
Awesome video.Thank you so much. Im Having problems with this same thing. Exept my outboard is a 1983 Johnson 20" Long Sail Electricstart and as a sailboat outboard is quite extended so my conecting bracket that you show on your video is not right near the water pump on the lower unit like yours, but at the top of the next extention hardly sticking out of it. after replacing the waterpump and all contents now Im having to open it up because I haden't put the set screw right and couldnt get it to go to forward gear As Im putting it back together the shift rod with its conecting bracket like yours is not long enough to conect to the shift rod coming out of the motor upper housing.
Question: On a extended Sail 20" 1983 Jhonson is the measurement you were speaking about that you took from the top of the housing to the highest point on the shift stick bracket the same? 13/32th- 7/16? Would mine be from the extention housing top to the highest pointof my shift rod bracket and would it be the same measuremet? or would it be another measurement? What do you think?
The manual that I was using said that shift in neurtal 5/16 min 11/32 max. Measuring shift rod height top of connector to gearcase. All the measurements was on the lower unit.
your very good - you know the way easily
Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe!
What if the brass is completely off? I can’t twist the rod.
Hi I know this is anoldvideo in internet age but hoping you could help. I replaced water pump and cleaned carby following your videos worked great thanks.
Then for some reason I took the powerheadoff. Now theres a rod that comes out of the right side of the powerhead and goes into what I can only describe as a cog looking piece. This rod is obviously connected to the throatle arm as when you turn the throatle the rod turns, in turn turning the cog effecting rotation on the throatle. Stupidly I didn't note the position this cog was in when I removed the power head and think the the cog must be in the wrong position as I dont get full turn on throatle. As this, lets call it half cog as it only has the cogs on half the wheel with a square slot in the center to recive the rod frompowerhead, could you tell me if the spiked half of that wheel should be facining the right side of the manifold and the smooth half the head, or the spikes facing head or front of engine, as it rotates 360° and me being stupid not to have taken note now have an engine that wants to run well except for this 1 stupid mistake!
Your videos are fantastic and some of the most helpful on the internet.
Keep it up please. Hope I made it clear and thanks in advance. Gus
I think you will have to send me a picture for me to help you out on this one. If you can send one to my email. omfishing@yahoo.com Then let me know on this comment you sent it.
I have the same motor. Mine wont go into reverse, so watching your video, turning the shifting rod to the correct height will correct this, correct ?
That is where I would start. Make sure the linkage is set right before I look else where.
Do you leave the shifter in neutral when re-assembling the lower?
I leave the shifter in the position that the linkage is down so I can put it back together and get my socket in between the cases.
Gday mate from down under. Great video, would you happen to know the measurement for a 94 15hp johnson short shaft. Mine grinds when shifting into reverse. Cheers mate.
So that linkage rod coming down from the top is angled at the bottom? It looks like it's bent, and I am having trouble lining my linkage. It's starts into the retainer, but won't fully engage.
The connector has to have the bolt all the way out for the rod to slip in. The rod does have bens in it. Let me know if this helps.
@@OmFishing Yeah I got it, I bungied up the motor not to slip, and ran a punch lining up the cutout in the shaft to the linkage. It was a pain in the butt.
Reconnecting the shift shaft has came a long way on newer motors. I still haven’t gotten mine attached yet
So does this apply to an 1988 Evinrude 8hp?
I'm gonna go out on a limb here....that gearbox looks almost identical to my 94 model 15hp, so would I be right in saying the adjustment would be exactly the same for this motor?
That would be a good starting point. Be sure and let me know how it runs.
So I finally got around to removing the leg and checking the shaft height. What would possibly cause the shift shaft to have so much free play. From neutral I can move the rod a good 5-8mm before it even thinks about engaging gear. I had it on the water 2 weeks ago and couldn't get it into reverse. 94 Johnson 15hp.
And it worked your the best
Happy to Help. Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Healthy!!!
Is the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual the B735-2 version or another you might suggest for my 2-stroke 1996 Johnson 9.9HP outboard Model No: J10REDD. Thanks.
I use the OMC Service manual for the Model I am working on. I also have the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson Outboard Shop Manual B733 version. My version is for 1991/1994 year Model. That covers my 1991 Evinrude 30 HP and the 1993 Evinrude 225 Ocean Pro. The only difference between us and a marine mechanic is about $100 dollars a hour. I go through the service manual and set everything to the specifications when I install or make a adjustment. I don't think all mechanic's take the time or have the time to do that. Thanks for commenting and watching. Stay Safe.
The motor runs very well. idles ok and does what it is supposed to do. Until about 20 minutes out, she starts to lose power and then dies out. If I anchor it for about 15 minutes, she starts right back up strong and then in about another 15minutes she dies again. Engine cowling is quite warm. Any antidotes?
Respectfully
Denniz Stern
The electrical system is generally the weakest link in the chain. That is where I would start. When you said it starts to lose power and then dies out. When it is dead have you check to see if you have spark to the spark plugs. Did you try a new set of spark plugs. Start with the easy stuff first don't assume it is something major.
Hey one thing that will cause this problem is a bad condenser. Once it heats up it fails and after it cools down again it works until it heats up. Usually caused by expansion of lead wire internally …….. opens when hot closes when cool. Had this problem many times with older outboards especially if they are used a log. Intermittent problems are the worst.
Have a question.
1993 15 hp tiller won't go into forward and it won't start. Any idea what that might be?
If the motor still has its safety on it it will not start in gear. You are going to have to get it out of gear before you can do much with it. Make sure you take the spark plugs wires off before you start working with the prop. You might need have to drop the lower unit is all else fails.
Good and Clear
Happy to help. Thanks for watching.
I just bought a 1971 25hp Evinrude what would be the height adjustment for that?
I don't have a service manual for that model. Sorry can't help with this question.
I don't know if you have a video on this or not but I have an 86 evinrude 15hp. I was pulling on it and tuning the carb and now the neutral safety won't let me pull in neutral but it will in gear. Will this fix it or do you have a video about it?
My 15 hp throttle handle has to be at idle for me to pull the rope. If it is above idle it will lock the pull cord. Mine will start in gear it does not matter it is all throttle position. I will see what I can fine for a video.
Thank you, I figured that out the next day. Felt like a huge idiot. Thanks again for the reply though. Your videos have been super helpful.
@@codyehlers2786 Stay Safe!
Got a question .... I have a Nissan 70 , 2 stroke that won’t go In neutral . I can take the shifter forward and all the way in reverse without resistance . What do you think the problem is ?
With out see and feeling the shift handle. My guess would be. If it shifts to forward and reverse the transmission is ok because neutral is just between the two. I think the linkage is out of adjustment.
I just got an old Johnson 15 hp and it stuck in neutral. The shifter itself won’t move into forward or reverse. I was hoping not to have to take off the lower unit. Is there another way I can go about this issue or will I have to take off the lower unit?
You can only hope that just the shift handle is stuck. The last one I did the shift rod where it enters the lower unit was all corroded. That is why it would not shift. Good luck
Would this work for a 1970 evinrude 9.5 up sportwin outboard
On my 1978 you adjust it from the top of the motor.
The manual reads
1 Remove fuel hose on carburetor
2 Remove cotter pin and washer from shift lever to link
3 Place lever and hub assembly and shift lever in reverse position
4 Adjust link to align with hole in shift lever
5 Shorten link one turn more for installation slight pressure will be necessary on shift lever when reinstalling link to shift lever.
6 install washer and cotter pin
7 Connect fuel hose to carburetor
8 Check and adjust starter lockout pawl clearance
9 Check and adjust start in neutral switch, if electric start.
This how I did mine. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hey, great videos! I've watched a bunch of your stuff. Do you happen to know the measurement for a 20hp evinrude? When I ordered a coil for it, it was the older style, but I'm not sure of the year unfortunately.
I don't know for sure on the 20 Hp
Good to see that 9.9. We haven’t seen it on a while. Is it a complete dependable runner yet? Maybe some water pics lol. 🤙
Yes the motor does run. I will get some water video in the near future. Thanks for commenting.
What gear should you be in before measuring
The transmission should be in neutral. Hope this helps.
Mines running strong but when I start to give it in. Forward it will often shift right out back to neutral I’ll try this and let you know
Please let me know how it goes for you.
ijust replaced the water pump and i think i screw to much in... same thing with mine how work for you man
@@TheSaavedra25 my shifter worked fine. You don't want to screw the shift linkage all the way down or it will not shift correctly Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Healthy!!
I was trying to adjust mine counter clockwise and the whole shift rod unthreaded. Now i cant get it to screw back in. Any idea how to screw it back in?
If you take the lower off you might be able to line it back up by tipping it. The yoke assembly should stay close to the hole. Stay Safe.
@@OmFishing Hey, thanks for the reply. I messed with it long enough and got it back on.
@@bigchad8929 Great. Thanks for letting me know.
Thanks for the tips
Hope it helps and thanks for watching.
I have been following the 9.9 videos...does it run? thanks for sharing
Yes the 9.9 does run I am trying to find some parts for it. Some were missing when I got it. The twist throttle shaft, Ide knob and pull cord rewind. I don’t want to buy them new
Ive got an 85' 15 johnson...is there any adjustment for the lever linkage under the cowl?
I know this vid is old but someone might see this and know.
From looking at the parts break down on that motor. I don't see any adjustment under the cowl. Stay Safe!!
Hello, could you tell me the measurement in centimeters?
THANK YOU
Happy to help. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good video
Thanks for watching and commenting. Stay Safe!
Thanks!
Happy to help. Stay Safe!!
OK, well this is interesting, I have never seen a dimension given for the lower shift rod height on these 9.9/15s, where did you find this spec? The OMC manuals I have used always said to screw the lower shift rod down completely into the gearcase until it seats, then just back it out enough so the bend is facing forward. I realize you were just trying to make a quick video, but there are a few points to expand on. First, shift system adjustment is crucial, it must be correct, or you will have shifting problems and expensive repairs in the near future.I know you know this, but want to point out that the brass shift rod connector on your engine is broken, it will not clamp well like that. Connecting the shift rods is a step that is often times done incorrectly, which leads to shift problems/expensive repairs. Once the gearcase comes down, it is important to look at the threads on the brass clam screw, these are often stripped. The expensive SS screw must be replaced at that point, please do not try to substitute that screw. With the gearcase off, thread the screw into the connector, to ensure the threads are OK before reassembly. The crazy looking SS lockwasher must be used as well. Probably not a bad idea to check the lower screw on the connector to ensure it is tight before reassembly also. I usually pry the upper clamp on the brass connector open just slightly before reassembly to ensure it will go over the upper shift rod without a fight. Please be sure the oring is in place on the driveshaft, and coat the splines liberally with OMC moly lube. Probably a good idea to sneak some emery up to the water tube to ensure it slips into the grommet easily also. It is probably best to have an assistant help install the gearcase so you can be sure the hole in the connector is lined up with the groove in the shift rod before installing and tightening the connector screw...Once the gearcase is installed, you need to check the detent adjustment also. Again, I mention all these things because what seems like an easy process can lead to big trouble and expense if not done correctly. Finally, I urge owners to not use their engines, if chattering or improper shifting is experienced after gearcase removal/installation. These are signs that something is very wrong. You still have a chance to fix it now, but continuing to use the engine will lead to clutch dog/gear lug problems that are very expensive to repair...
I got my information form the Clymer Evinrude/Johnson outboard shop manual pg 585 it reads. Shift the gearcase into NEUTRAL. Measure the distance between the top of the gearcase to exhaust housing mating surface and the highest point of the shift rod connector. The measurement should be between 13/32 and 7/16 in with the flat surface of the shift rod connector facing the drive shaft. Rotate the shift rod as necessary to obtain the specified distance and position the flat side of the connector toward the drive shaft.
OK, well that conflicts with what is prescribed in the OMC manuals. But I have had to alter the adjustments even after following the OMC instructions. Again, it is super important to get all this stuff right, or you end up with big/expensive clutch dog problems....
How come you don't have any videos?
@@ALVintageOutboards I do have a few, but they are under my other screen name...
th-cam.com/channels/ukzRKo84K49imNsacUyCAQ.html
At the end there you had the shifter in forward?then switched to neutral as you pushed lower end into place?
In the video I had the shift handle in forward to make the shift rod at its longest point and I had the lower unit in reverse so the shift rod was at its longest setting. This way there was enough space between the two cases to connect the shift linkage together. When I pulled the shift handle to reverse it brought the cases together.
Do you have a video on adjust carb linkage on 9.5 Johnson
Check out my video linkage synchronization Everude 9.9.
th-cam.com/video/1q3MQyKzyNg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks
So I was able to set the timing and carb linkage today. When I got the motor the cam for the carb was loose and would not push on the carb till almost full throttle
So I tighten it up and did not realize that the throttle butterfly is on a spring tension and has to be adjusted at same time as the cam. This is my first outboard and it's completely different than working on motorcycle and lawnmower engines.so today I re adjusted everything, and have to wait a week to get on the river because of flooding.
I know that all the rivers around here are flooding too. So much rain the ocean near shore is not good fishing either. I guess we will just have to set it out. Hope your engine runs well let me know.
I’m trying to remove my lower unit. 1981 Evinrude 25 horse.
I don’t see that shift linkage on mine like in this video.
Anyone know how to get it off.
I just took my 8 bolts out and my pivot pin but only comes down about 1 1/2” and stops
Om, I sent you an email. Thanks for great tips and the vids, keep up the good work.
Hey i have a 1960 fastwin 18hp with some problems.It runs when the motor is cold but wont start again after it warms up.I have rebuilt the carburetor and had it checked he said it was good.But when you squeeze the primer bulb i have gas come out of the carburetor throat and the motor wont start.Suggestions please.Also cant locate fuel pump repair kit.
If your getting gas running out of the carburetor when you squeeze the primer bulb it could be just a little dirt in the inlet needle valve. I have taken my carburetor apart and cleaned it put it back together and it run 10 minutes and start running bad. I have taken the carb back off and it was full of junk. That is way I put the Fuel filter water separator on my Jon Boat a little over kill but no PROBLEMS sense then. I think my problem was when the fuel shortage was going I was buying gas off the bottom of the tank at the gas station.
Thank u
Happy to help! Thanks for watching.
Om Fishing Sir,I got an evinrude 15 hp 1983,gas power good but the screw so weak,what is the reason
@@Ghhonhg3245 If we are talking about the prop slipping you can get them repaired at a prop shop. The rubber in the center gets bad. If it is not in good shape I would replace it.
Thank you Sir
@@Ghhonhg3245 Keep watching and stay safe.
i think you meant between 13/16" and 15/15" sir
Thanks for bring that to my attention. The manual reads between 5/16 minimum to 11/32 maximum. Thanks for watching and commenting.
that huge lower case for 9.9hp
Yes On that year model Evinrude used the same lower unit for the 9.9 and the 15 Hp.