Gee, out of ALL the questions submitted in the comments section, you only give ONE reply!! Great video though, and your process is fine! A note to the wise-- Make SURE that there is no sunlight "Seepage" into the finishing area!! In my first attempt with Solarez, it began setting up due to this, and had to be completely stripped down and redone after my "LEAK" was eradicated! Just Sayin! PS: Love your PVC holding set-up, I've "cloned" it, Ha! Thanx
Good info! Do you think a makeup pad would work better than a paint brush and business card? Looks like you would get a thin even coat that way without the brush marks. Might make it easier to level sand that way. Still let it level and rest.
15:37 um, why is the buffing wheel vibrating like crazy? I know why but why? Wouldn't you want to correct that so it doesn't wear out too quickly? I don't know, just thinking that a round thing should be round and if it's not, it's going to wear out whatever it's bouncing against a lot quicker.
afaik the gloss top coat isn't the best product for sticking to a substrate, but it grips tenaciously to other products like grain sealer. so the sealer isn't just there to seal grain
Can additional coats be applied between course sandings or is this a one shot deal where you're better off shooting for a thicker first coat application if a thicker finish is what you're after?
Does anyone know how this resin works with an archtop guitar like a Les Paul or a Dinky? It doesn't seem like I would be able to let it sit before curing, since it's not a flat surface to sit on... ?
Would this method work for pianos and grand pianos too? Is there a 'piano black' version of this polyester product that would be suitable for finishing pianos?
The choice is in the craftsmen hands. We created ICBINL to mimic the feel and look of traditional guitar body top coats but people have been making guitars with poly for years. The choice is yours
Does a heat gun help it settle? Would it help to cure one side at a time, or would that leave a seam? Do you recommend a specific Solarez product? I know you uploaded this in 2016, anything else you've learned for tips/tricks?
a little heat can help but mostly having a clean static free surface goes along way so wipe with a solvent and microfiber cloth then use a tac cloth. I would checkout our line of "I Cant Believe Its Not Lacquer" we have a grain sealer and top coats that work AMAZINGLY for guitars and other hand crafted wood projects
I’m having issues with tiny tiny little bubbles or pin holes. Any advice on removing them? When I use a foam brushes I can notice this effect even if I let it sit for a couple hours
You could put your project in a vacuum chamber depending on the it’s size I suppose. If it’s relatively small they have vacuum chambers at harbor freight, or do a TH-cam search for, “diy vacuum chamber for epoxy”.
Hi Thanks for the great video and advice. Question: On Hard Maple would I need so many (4) coats of sealer... if at all ?? Perhapa you needed it here because of the mahogany you are using here? Please let me know . Thanks.
@@WahooInternationalInc Can you tell us please if this finish is at all suitable for the 1. fretboard? 2. Neck ? Do you have any thoughts ? PLEASE !!! Thank you vm !!
Unless something else is going on, this video was created by the Highland Guitars youtube channel. Do not support this channel with possibly stolen content unless they clear up this issue with Highland Guitars.
Please! Stop sanding with your fingers. Use a sanding block or hard, flat plywood for a flat, level surface. Sanding with fingers puts ripples into the surface.
This guy makes it look too easy. It's not hard, but it is a little tricky if you're not used to UV cured coatings. I recommend NOT using a paint brush. Use a foam brush or a make foundation applicator. I tried the paint brush and it really hard to get an even finish. If you try to fix it when it's too thick it clumps up and it becomes impossible to completely fix. Key is to apply as thin and even as a layer as you possibly can and repeat as many time as possible. Finish sand between coats (DO NOT USE A POWER SANDER - It will burn the clear coat and cause the stain to recede). Also DO NOT be a hero. Work on the guitar front and then the back (or vice versa) especially if your dealing with a guitar with binding.
Gee, out of ALL the questions submitted in the comments section, you only give ONE reply!! Great video though, and your process is fine! A note to the wise-- Make SURE that there is no sunlight "Seepage" into the finishing area!! In my first attempt with Solarez, it began setting up due to this, and had to be completely stripped down and redone after my "LEAK" was eradicated! Just Sayin! PS: Love your PVC holding set-up, I've "cloned" it, Ha! Thanx
Is this video from Highline Guitars?
Boran Theki why yes it is haha
This is cris from highline guitars
That glossy finish sure was nice.
PVC pipe is nature's tinkertoys/legos for just about any improvised construction, framing or other device!
Good info! Do you think a makeup pad would work better than a paint brush and business card? Looks like you would get a thin even coat that way without the brush marks. Might make it easier to level sand that way. Still let it level and rest.
So.... no sanding between the grain filler and the final coat?
great video. thanks for sharing your technique.
That is freaking sweet!
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing!
Why brand of water based wood dye did you use????
15:37 um, why is the buffing wheel vibrating like crazy? I know why but why? Wouldn't you want to correct that so it doesn't wear out too quickly? I don't know, just thinking that a round thing should be round and if it's not, it's going to wear out whatever it's bouncing against a lot quicker.
Do you think solarez would do ok without the grain sealer?
afaik the gloss top coat isn't the best product for sticking to a substrate, but it grips tenaciously to other products like grain sealer. so the sealer isn't just there to seal grain
Can additional coats be applied between course sandings or is this a one shot deal where you're better off shooting for a thicker first coat application if a thicker finish is what you're after?
Build layers
I would have left the guitar top-up so the clear wouldn't run toward the top from the sides. Maybe I'm stupid. ?
Does anyone know how this resin works with an archtop guitar like a Les Paul or a Dinky? It doesn't seem like I would be able to let it sit before curing, since it's not a flat surface to sit on... ?
Would this method work for pianos and grand pianos too? Is there a 'piano black' version of this polyester product that would be suitable for finishing pianos?
Can you use Solorez over a canned spray paint finish? I've used it on water base and worked brilliantly!
What is the brand name of the water-based red dye you use in this video ? Thank you very much.
15:48 - huge runout of the polish wheel
Do you prefer this Solarez Gloss Polyester over Solarez "I Can't Believe It's Not Lacquer"? What differences have you found?
The choice is in the craftsmen hands. We created ICBINL to mimic the feel and look of traditional guitar body top coats but people have been making guitars with poly for years. The choice is yours
Does a heat gun help it settle? Would it help to cure one side at a time, or would that leave a seam? Do you recommend a specific Solarez product? I know you uploaded this in 2016, anything else you've learned for tips/tricks?
a little heat can help but mostly having a clean static free surface goes along way so wipe with a solvent and microfiber cloth then use a tac cloth. I would checkout our line of "I Cant Believe Its Not Lacquer" we have a grain sealer and top coats that work AMAZINGLY for guitars and other hand crafted wood projects
I’m having issues with tiny tiny little bubbles or pin holes. Any advice on removing them? When I use a foam brushes I can notice this effect even if I let it sit for a couple hours
Pin Holes can be from contaminants. Make a few passes with cleaning solvent and a tac cloth for best results
I wonder if you got the air bubbles by mixing it before applying. Maybe you shook it or mixed it quickly.
You could put your project in a vacuum chamber depending on the it’s size I suppose. If it’s relatively small they have vacuum chambers at harbor freight, or do a TH-cam search for, “diy vacuum chamber for epoxy”.
@@thelittlelenora- That would not be an option for my kind of project: applying a polyester coating to my grand piano. ;)
Hi
Thanks for the great video and advice. Question: On Hard Maple would I need so many (4) coats of sealer... if at all ?? Perhapa you needed it here because of the mahogany you are using here? Please let me know . Thanks.
the layers of grain sealer depends on wood and finish you are looking for. Deeper grain or more pores wood get a couple extra coats so its dead flat
@@WahooInternationalInc Can you tell us please if this finish is at all suitable for the
1. fretboard?
2. Neck ?
Do you have any thoughts ? PLEASE !!!
Thank you vm !!
@@Mherkava The end product is strong enough and durable for any part of the guitar but it is up to the maker or artist to pick the finish and look.
@@WahooInternationalInc Is one coat enough on Hard rock maple?
@@Mherkava it really depends on your preference. But one coat is more than enough as long as you prep the area well it will bond and be durable
Unless something else is going on, this video was created by the Highland Guitars youtube channel. Do not support this channel with possibly stolen content unless they clear up this issue with Highland Guitars.
Please! Stop sanding with your fingers. Use a sanding block or hard, flat plywood for a flat, level surface. Sanding with fingers puts ripples into the surface.
This guy makes it look too easy. It's not hard, but it is a little tricky if you're not used to UV cured coatings. I recommend NOT using a paint brush. Use a foam brush or a make foundation applicator. I tried the paint brush and it really hard to get an even finish. If you try to fix it when it's too thick it clumps up and it becomes impossible to completely fix. Key is to apply as thin and even as a layer as you possibly can and repeat as many time as possible. Finish sand between coats (DO NOT USE A POWER SANDER - It will burn the clear coat and cause the stain to recede). Also DO NOT be a hero. Work on the guitar front and then the back (or vice versa) especially if your dealing with a guitar with binding.
Use a heat gun and cure it faster.
Edit: UV rays artificially would also be helpful
heat gun will thin it more than it cures it
@5naxalotl ok thank you