One thing that isn't helping your brake pedal feel is the design of your bias bar housing. It's allowing the bar to twist so the pushrods into the masters are taking up quite an extreme angle. This will be giving you some "lost motion" in the pedal. If you look at the Alfaholics dual circuit brake box for these cars, you can see that the bias bar sits inside a steel tube that stops this happening. We've still had customers getting this problem because they forgot to tighten the lock nut which stops the whole thing twisting so the fitting guide I wrote has a strong warning about this! I'm not sure if your setup will take a tube like ours but it's worth looking at. And yeah, we fit a bigger cylinder on the rear too. Don't forget to make the pushrod into the front cylinder slightly longer to take into account the extra travel so that when the brakes are on it levels out.
"Project Binky, now there's a name I haven't heard in very long time "(in an Alec Guinness accent) Great to see the Alfarerrari nearly there now , can't wait to see it screaming down the road
One quick diagnostic check is to clamp the flexible brake lines (if they're rubber) and see if the pedal improves. Then release them one at a time and check the pedal each time. This can help narrow down where the air is.
Good to see you measure toe with the gauges on the correct part of the wheel - the inside, flat part of the flange. I see far too many videos where "experts" measure to the flange outer edge, which on steel wheels may not be true to the wheel and on alloys which may have been worn on kerbs etc before being painted up nicely again
Tip It might be possible to fit your own backlight system for the gauges. Get some thin Perspex clear or a suitable colour. Cut it to go behind the faceplate Sand one side so that it is frosted. Glue some LEDs around the perimeter pointing into the clear side. This should give a diffuse backlight.
I never thought of ALL those details like the ones you continuously uncover and explore in your builds. Daunting task, rebuilding and modding a machoine. Solid work, as usual.
Years ago I did a disc brake conversion on an old XP Falcon. Replaced EVERYTHING. I thought it would be easy...... the old drum brake system was truly frightening so I knew I couldn't make it worse. Ha! Yeah right. It actually took far longer to get the system working properly than it took to install all the hardware. I went through that whole cycle of bleed, adjust, test drive at least eight times, with no result. Like you I was at my wits end. Even my local brake shop was stumped. I didn't have the luxury of separate master cylinders so fitting a larger bore for the rears wasn't an option. I ended up kind of cheating and installing a (hideously expensive) adjustable pressure reducing valve for the rears, after that it worked perfectly. It turns out brakes are nowhere near as simple as you think. Very glad you got it sorted.
Years ago a really good air-cooled Porsche mechanic taught me a trick to bleeding (especially with new calipers) brakes. You install totally shot pads in the caliper and work them in/out (using the pedal for in, a big pry bar to push them back) several times. He called it "exercising the calipers".. Seems that when new, with new pads, there isn't really enough movement to bleed well, but that's just my guess, all I know is on my 78 SC race car it worked!
Jeff, your brakes try adjusting the brake bias more, that setting looked very neutral. and what is the Piston volume front to rear ratio, you have a car where the weight balance front to rear is (i'm guessing) 55/45 maybe 50/50. That Tilton bar shouldn't twist so much as the pedal is applied. just check your calculations again. connect the bias adjustment cable to the Tilton Bar and to the Dash. PS do you have Carol Smiths set of books, it's all in there.
Thanks for the update Jeff. My main fear is the proximity of the exhaust to the master cylinders (even though you have a protection). I can appreciate that this is somewhat inevitable. With regard to gauges, many aftermarket manufacturers simply do not care about the night lighting; one particular remanufacturer I can think off (that my project has in common with Binky) has lax quality controls (3 different errors including 2 on custom gauge printing). I am going to look for a specialist in a shed and will probably have to start from scratch.
what a lot of work again and I'm happy for you that you solved the brake problem, and now of course fingers crossed that it will pass the inspection, good luck 🍀💪🏻
Lovely new sweater, Ms. J! More of that fine Aussie wool you have a taste for. Jeff, I'm going to miss Alfararri- I know your growing thin spots will too!
It's " Driving me Crazy" and now it's lockiing up the rear! I'm tearing my hair out! Jeff you made me laugh, that was funny! Ah! Trouble Shooting Dean( Soul) Toronto Canada 🇨🇦
Hey Jeff, repeat after me, "when I install some part of remove and replace some part, I MUST re-tighten the bolts that hold those parts in". Luckily that centre bearing didn't go full spaceship. Doing good Jeff, fingers crossed for an engineering "pass".
Regarding MC bores, the front brake calipers normally have much larger diameter piston area than rear calipers. Therefore you need to supply much bigger volume of brake fluid in front to move the brake pistons and pads the same distance as in the rear. So putting smaller diameter master cylinder bore for front brakes sounds a bit weird, frankly. The balancing bar adjust the forces applied to generate pressure, but you can run out of piston travel in the front MC. An inspection should react to this setup.
Nope, that's not how brakes work. It's about the pressure you apply to the calipers not the volume. So Jeff's setup is now correct with a smaller cylinder on the front. That gives you automatic front bias with the balance rod centred. Alfaholics where I work sells a brake box with this setup and we set them up with a smaller front cylinder. If the cylinders are connected the wrong way round, the brakes are terrible.
What an awesome little buggy. This is a real work of love, and art. Good the brakes are sorted, mostly. Major milestone achieved. go and stop. Now back to the GO.. oh, and wipers. ;-)
Suck through bleeding sucks imo. Two people one holding pedal pressure and other rapid depressuring at the nipple works best for me , blasts the air through- always. That adjustable bias would be an automatic fail in UK inspection.
I has that issue with 4 pot calipers - the solution was to take the caliper off the car, still conneted to to the brake lines and turn it upside down, to get the air out of what is normally the bottom of the caliper and then bleed it. Also, should have 2 bleeding tubes when you're bleeding a pair of wheel cylinders. Hope that helps? Keep up the good work, love your videos. :)
Jeff have tried reverse bleeding you presurise fluid from the callipers back up to the master cylinder you can buy a reverse bleeding kit from any good spare parts they are reasonably cheap and very efective
makes sense on mc's, Alfaholics dual box has the same setup, small for front, larger for rear. not sure o sizing, but explanation helps me understand why its that way, thanks
Your exhaust heat might boil the fluid in the brake light switch fitting during driving if you dont have some sort of shielding in there. Not a good way to enjoy the car with a dissapearing pedal.
Since you've been through all this to make this awesome car i believe the gauges should be made digital. It will be a reminder that this car is also an upgrade and surely deserves one nice flair of 2024 technology. Also you'll be able to control all the car through the dash without the need of your phone.
I used to hate bleeding brakes as well. I invested in a nice pressure bleeding kit with easy connection to the reservoir. Makes it a breeze now and always works. Vacuum bleeding is horrible to work with. Regarding the master cylinder you also need to take the different displacement volume needed on the calipers on front vs rear - not only pressure
The Alfa Giulia 952 has digital gauges that on 2024 models are a screen behind the cowls, bit expensive I guess for your build and would need programming!!
Not quite correct on your brake master cylinder sizing. You ARE correct that large MC is high volume/low pressure and small MC is high pressure/low volume, but you need to account for fluid volume as well. You have huge 6 piston front calipers and tiny single piston rears. Amount of fluid vs size of pistons makes a difference. If you run a small MC you'll run out of throw in the pedal before you run out of brake pad. To get you balance bar more towards centre you'd be better off running a too large MC on the rear than running a too small MC on the front, and it's far safer! Your rear brakes will still come on first because they require less fluid to move the same distance as the pistons are smaller so you'll still need to run a front heavy balance bar. It's actually quite complicated and I've been trying to calculate my MC sizing for a while now but I have a complicated linkage system in my brake pedal for the right hand drive conversion.....
@@HomeBuiltByJeff yeh. It seems to work too. I was worried that it would pump too much fluid so your rear brakes would engage first. Even at lower pressure it might still be enough to upset the balance of the car.
Hello jeff from Spain From my experience, the issue with the brake seems air but it's not. I'm 100% sure it's dead / excessive travel of pistons in front calipers . Hydraulic issue obviously but not air definitely. Good luck
Anyone else having the problem where there's adverts every 3/4 minutes and then the advert ends and stays black, and you have to restart the video from where you left off manually? Bloody annoying. It's taken me like an extra 5 minutes.... Worth it for the edit though being polished.
I have had a similar break issue with my Alfa 105 and sponge feeling pedal. I have stopped bleeding with vacuum. I use pressure to push from the reservoar. Since then i have never hade any problem with it.
I built racing Ducati motorbikes,but I see you have banjo fittings.. I've chased this soft feel issue on them as well until I cracked the banjo fittings first and then moved to the calipers and the issue went away for a full firm feeling.. Now that is my standard procedure and I acquired bleedable nippled banjo bolts.. Problem solved.. 😢😢
Hey up jeff how does the rego work in NSW for the Alfa it's age would qualify it for some sort of historic but does this still apply with it having a much newer engine
Can’t you just gut the instrument cluster and place a really widescreen tv behind it. I’ve seen software before where it mimics analog clusters and it should be able to work and connect to your standalone ecu. With custom fonts the ideas are limitless. And you would still have an oldschool look to it rather than a modern square screen
Don't you need a lazy susan device under each wheel so the resistance of the tires rubber doesn't effect the true natural wheel centering when adjusting?
I don't remember correctly but did you bench bleed the masters? I had an issue for a few weeks trying to bleed brakes and it was the master with air. I bench bled it with fluid above it for the head pressure and got a bunch of air out and then got my pedal back
Well, it looks like you’re well on your way to getting your inspection taken care of. I was wondering where you purchased your alignment tools and do you have an address? I have a license plate I would like to send you cheers mate.
Also while im complaining, there is one thing I dont like about the looks of the car... The headlights are to far out, making it look popeyed. Otherwise its good! 🧐
Tip If break callipers are assembled using rubber grease you can have a spongey peddle. This is because the grease traps bubbles of air and won’t let it bleed out. Use a safe solvent to flush the breaks or heat the callipers up to liquify the grease and use mentholated spirits to flush it out.
You have spent a lot of time over many episodes complaining about the gauges and the back lighting, blah blah wha wha. Then you build a permanent mount for your poxy phone. A great big, back light box, that doesn't match a dam thing. So many Kinds of wrong. Think, just think.
I hate this car. I wonder if others agree. I just wished he would not bother with it anymore on the show and proceed in earnest with his other main project.
@@computiNATEor it's a comment section. I say it how I see it, if you like it then fine. This car is just a never ending problem for Jeff. It will never be right, I can guarantee it. He has started on his main project, which should be his focus.
I don’t hate it. I just wish we could focus on getting one of the projects finished. There’s 3 on the go. I just think it’s time to finish and sign one off as complete.
@@ozbusa yes fair enough, why is Jeff persisting with the alfa when it's been done to death. It will never be finished. He will just keep finding things wrong with it.
One thing that isn't helping your brake pedal feel is the design of your bias bar housing. It's allowing the bar to twist so the pushrods into the masters are taking up quite an extreme angle. This will be giving you some "lost motion" in the pedal.
If you look at the Alfaholics dual circuit brake box for these cars, you can see that the bias bar sits inside a steel tube that stops this happening.
We've still had customers getting this problem because they forgot to tighten the lock nut which stops the whole thing twisting so the fitting guide I wrote has a strong warning about this!
I'm not sure if your setup will take a tube like ours but it's worth looking at.
And yeah, we fit a bigger cylinder on the rear too. Don't forget to make the pushrod into the front cylinder slightly longer to take into account the extra travel so that when the brakes are on it levels out.
That's the kind of advice that saves weeks if not months.
"Project Binky, now there's a name I haven't heard in very long time "(in an Alec Guinness accent) Great to see the Alfarerrari nearly there now , can't wait to see it screaming down the road
Project Binky got me into fabrication and welding. Good stuff.
@@MichaelAMangone I was lucky enough to sit in Binky a couple of years ago at Weston Park
Binky and Alfarrari battling on the Nurburgring would make great viewing… Be an expensive proposition for Jeff though.
@@mattbettany1174 and how were the brackets? As good as they look on camera?
@@MichaelAMangone the bracketry was of course exceptional
One quick diagnostic check is to clamp the flexible brake lines (if they're rubber) and see if the pedal improves. Then release them one at a time and check the pedal each time. This can help narrow down where the air is.
Good to see you measure toe with the gauges on the correct part of the wheel - the inside, flat part of the flange. I see far too many videos where "experts" measure to the flange outer edge, which on steel wheels may not be true to the wheel and on alloys which may have been worn on kerbs etc before being painted up nicely again
Tip
It might be possible to fit your own backlight system for the gauges.
Get some thin Perspex clear or a suitable colour.
Cut it to go behind the faceplate
Sand one side so that it is frosted.
Glue some LEDs around the perimeter pointing into the clear side.
This should give a diffuse backlight.
Glad to see that you never give up. You always seem to find a solution. Keep up the good work Jeff, love ur channel m8. Best wishes from the UK 🇬🇧
I never thought of ALL those details like the ones you continuously uncover and explore in your builds. Daunting task, rebuilding and modding a machoine. Solid work, as usual.
Years ago I did a disc brake conversion on an old XP Falcon. Replaced EVERYTHING. I thought it would be easy...... the old drum brake system was truly frightening so I knew I couldn't make it worse. Ha! Yeah right.
It actually took far longer to get the system working properly than it took to install all the hardware. I went through that whole cycle of bleed, adjust, test drive at least eight times, with no result. Like you I was at my wits end. Even my local brake shop was stumped. I didn't have the luxury of separate master cylinders so fitting a larger bore for the rears wasn't an option. I ended up kind of cheating and installing a (hideously expensive) adjustable pressure reducing valve for the rears, after that it worked perfectly.
It turns out brakes are nowhere near as simple as you think. Very glad you got it sorted.
Use a pressure bleeder instead of a vacuum blender. Have your wife slowly pump the brake pedal while you bleed each corner.
Good luck with the inspection! Hopefully brakes are sorted and we can see you ripping her around soon!
Great progress ticking of the small items! All takes time with a detailed complex project. Thanks for sharing your passion. Bill Mc
Years ago a really good air-cooled Porsche mechanic taught me a trick to bleeding (especially with new calipers) brakes. You install totally shot pads in the caliper and work them in/out (using the pedal for in, a big pry bar to push them back) several times. He called it "exercising the calipers".. Seems that when new, with new pads, there isn't really enough movement to bleed well, but that's just my guess, all I know is on my 78 SC race car it worked!
Jeff, your brakes try adjusting the brake bias more, that setting looked very neutral. and what is the Piston volume front to rear ratio, you have a car where the weight balance front to rear is (i'm guessing) 55/45 maybe 50/50. That Tilton bar shouldn't twist so much as the pedal is applied. just check your calculations again. connect the bias adjustment cable to the Tilton Bar and to the Dash. PS do you have Carol Smiths set of books, it's all in there.
I feel your pain, bleeding brakes is the worst job. I keep putting off re plumbing all the lines on my Mini.
Good luck on the inspection 🎉
Thanks for sharing Jeff. Good luck with the inspection
Very interesting video, I hadn't thought of piston diameter having any affect on pressure obtained.
A frustrating week, but you solved it. Clever chap.
Thanks for the update Jeff.
My main fear is the proximity of the exhaust to the master cylinders (even though you have a protection). I can appreciate that this is somewhat inevitable.
With regard to gauges, many aftermarket manufacturers simply do not care about the night lighting; one particular remanufacturer I can think off (that my project has in common with Binky) has lax quality controls (3 different errors including 2 on custom gauge printing).
I am going to look for a specialist in a shed and will probably have to start from scratch.
I am with you on hating break bleeding.
I miss you calling it Lam-ba-da, genuinely it was one of my favorite mispronunciation and it made that episode awesome
what a lot of work again and I'm happy for you that you solved the brake problem, and now of course fingers crossed that it will pass the inspection, good luck 🍀💪🏻
Lovely new sweater, Ms. J! More of that fine Aussie wool you have a taste for. Jeff, I'm going to miss Alfararri- I know your growing thin spots will too!
It's " Driving me Crazy" and now it's lockiing up the rear! I'm tearing my hair out! Jeff you made me laugh, that was funny! Ah! Trouble Shooting Dean( Soul) Toronto Canada 🇨🇦
Breaks can be a pain 🙄🤷
Great job!! 👍👏
Hey Jeff, repeat after me, "when I install some part of remove and replace some part, I MUST re-tighten the bolts that hold those parts in". Luckily that centre bearing didn't go full spaceship. Doing good Jeff, fingers crossed for an engineering "pass".
Regarding MC bores, the front brake calipers normally have much larger diameter piston area than rear calipers. Therefore you need to supply much bigger volume of brake fluid in front to move the brake pistons and pads the same distance as in the rear.
So putting smaller diameter master cylinder bore for front brakes sounds a bit weird, frankly.
The balancing bar adjust the forces applied to generate pressure, but you can run out of piston travel in the front MC. An inspection should react to this setup.
Nope, that's not how brakes work. It's about the pressure you apply to the calipers not the volume. So Jeff's setup is now correct with a smaller cylinder on the front. That gives you automatic front bias with the balance rod centred.
Alfaholics where I work sells a brake box with this setup and we set them up with a smaller front cylinder. If the cylinders are connected the wrong way round, the brakes are terrible.
Good luck with the engineer inspection! 🤞
What an awesome little buggy. This is a real work of love, and art. Good the brakes are sorted, mostly.
Major milestone achieved. go and stop. Now back to the GO.. oh, and wipers. ;-)
Well done Jeff
That brake switch fitting is too close to the exhaust. The heat is boiling the oil. You need a serious heatshield there.
Yeah I was thinking the same
Best ask Mrs .Jeff when you’ve issues
Girls know everything 🏴😎
Suck through bleeding sucks imo. Two people one holding pedal pressure and other rapid depressuring at the nipple works best for me , blasts the air through- always. That adjustable bias would be an automatic fail in UK inspection.
I has that issue with 4 pot calipers - the solution was to take the caliper off the car, still conneted to to the brake lines and turn it upside down, to get the air out of what is normally the bottom of the caliper and then bleed it. Also, should have 2 bleeding tubes when you're bleeding a pair of wheel cylinders. Hope that helps? Keep up the good work, love your videos. :)
Maybe if you put window tint over the bright Raceworks gauges it would be acceptable (short term).
Jeff did you ever get the roof crease sorted after your lift accident?
I hate bleeding brakes too. Got a 2000 LS400 a few weeks ago, and facing spongy brakes after 10 times bleeding too. Makes me crazy.
All hail the Mysterious Algorythm, in bocca al lupo per il collaudo (all the best for the inspection) ciao from italy
Try knocking the calipers gently with a rubber mallet while bleeding. Air sometimes gets stuck in them.
Well done mate.
Jeff have tried reverse bleeding you presurise fluid from the callipers back up to the master cylinder you can buy a reverse bleeding kit from any good spare parts they are reasonably cheap and very efective
makes sense on mc's, Alfaholics dual box has the same setup, small for front, larger for rear. not sure o sizing, but explanation helps me understand why its that way, thanks
Your exhaust heat might boil the fluid in the brake light switch fitting during driving if you dont have some sort of shielding in there. Not a good way to enjoy the car with a dissapearing pedal.
"It's just Best Laid Plans really". Bwhahaha, love the tongue in cheek comments. Great video you two. Cheers.
Pressure bleeding (into the reservoir) is WAY easier than vacuum.
Another great video mate. I’m pretty sure I’ll be in a similar position to yourself soon, brake wise.
Nice Jeff, is the dent still in the roof? 😂😂Greetings from South Africa! ❤
Since you've been through all this to make this awesome car i believe the gauges should be made digital. It will be a reminder that this car is also an upgrade and surely deserves one nice flair of 2024 technology. Also you'll be able to control all the car through the dash without the need of your phone.
The Ferrari V8 would’ve had mechanical gauges in the 360. I don’t think it suits this car.
I used to hate bleeding brakes as well. I invested in a nice pressure bleeding kit with easy connection to the reservoir. Makes it a breeze now and always works. Vacuum bleeding is horrible to work with.
Regarding the master cylinder you also need to take the different displacement volume needed on the calipers on front vs rear - not only pressure
I have one, and use both pressure and vacuum. Still sucked ;)
The Alfa Giulia 952 has digital gauges that on 2024 models are a screen behind the cowls, bit expensive I guess for your build and would need programming!!
Not quite correct on your brake master cylinder sizing.
You ARE correct that large MC is high volume/low pressure and small MC is high pressure/low volume, but you need to account for fluid volume as well. You have huge 6 piston front calipers and tiny single piston rears. Amount of fluid vs size of pistons makes a difference. If you run a small MC you'll run out of throw in the pedal before you run out of brake pad. To get you balance bar more towards centre you'd be better off running a too large MC on the rear than running a too small MC on the front, and it's far safer! Your rear brakes will still come on first because they require less fluid to move the same distance as the pistons are smaller so you'll still need to run a front heavy balance bar. It's actually quite complicated and I've been trying to calculate my MC sizing for a while now but I have a complicated linkage system in my brake pedal for the right hand drive conversion.....
Hence why I put a larger cylinder on the rear not a smaller on the front ;)
@@HomeBuiltByJeff yeh. It seems to work too. I was worried that it would pump too much fluid so your rear brakes would engage first. Even at lower pressure it might still be enough to upset the balance of the car.
Best of luck Jeff...
Cary
Nz
The inside looks killer tho looks mint
Getting closer... 😃
if your engineer drives the car, even for a minute, and it is making that beeping noise...he will kill you. 😆
Hello jeff from Spain
From my experience, the issue with the brake seems air but it's not.
I'm 100% sure it's dead / excessive travel of pistons in front calipers . Hydraulic issue obviously but not air definitely.
Good luck
Ok I've seen it's corrected itself😂 that's good luck
you never disappoint....why buy a $5 Chinese phone holder when you can take 1 hour to make a bespoke one.
since you have the ferrari engine, isn't it better to get ferrari gauges and customize them to fit in the alfa cluster?!
On my race Giulia, there’s almost no rear braking at the limit due to the weight balance and I don’t have a big lump of a Ferrari engine up front.
impressive!
Anyone else having the problem where there's adverts every 3/4 minutes and then the advert ends and stays black, and you have to restart the video from where you left off manually? Bloody annoying. It's taken me like an extra 5 minutes.... Worth it for the edit though being polished.
Top job - As always 👌🏻🇳🇿🇩🇰🏁😎
I've seen the pressure switches fail internally and suck air.
You only need rpm, oil press and the radio sound.
Did he ever get the dent in the roof fixed?
I Hope you will put a better steering wheel. Maybe you can custom made one
I have seen if you don’t get full travel out of the brake master cylinder air can get trapped in it
I have had a similar break issue with my Alfa 105 and sponge feeling pedal. I have stopped bleeding with vacuum. I use pressure to push from the reservoar. Since then i have never hade any problem with it.
I used both my vacuum and pressure bleeders.
Lambda is not going to not make me laugh after way back when ;)
Jeff did you have the right size of muster cylinder for the big brakes cos if you have a small master for the big brakes your not going to work
Up to the point, but how is the roof damage today?
I built racing Ducati motorbikes,but I see you have banjo fittings.. I've chased this soft feel issue on them as well until I cracked the banjo fittings first and then moved to the calipers and the issue went away for a full firm feeling.. Now that is my standard procedure and I acquired bleedable nippled banjo bolts.. Problem solved.. 😢😢
Good tip
Perhaps your brake pressure switch are fault maybe you can swap it out with a new one
What's left on list... just power steering?
Should that brake switch fitting be insulated from the exhaust heat?
Did you take a few panadols after that Jeff
💛
Can you put the brake switch on the master cylinder outlet?
Looked like it slipped out of gear (3rd gear?) on that last run Jeff. Or did I imagining it
Hey up jeff how does the rego work in NSW for the Alfa it's age would qualify it for some sort of historic but does this still apply with it having a much newer engine
Can’t you just gut the instrument cluster and place a really widescreen tv behind it. I’ve seen software before where it mimics analog clusters and it should be able to work and connect to your standalone ecu. With custom fonts the ideas are limitless. And you would still have an oldschool look to it rather than a modern square screen
Don't you need a lazy susan device under each wheel so the resistance of the tires rubber doesn't effect the true natural wheel centering when adjusting?
Ideally, but it is close and a quick recheck after a drive will do the same.
heat shielding for that brake pressure switch?
I mentioned it in the video, but yes I have a heat shield over it.
Pipes stretching
I don't remember correctly but did you bench bleed the masters? I had an issue for a few weeks trying to bleed brakes and it was the master with air. I bench bled it with fluid above it for the head pressure and got a bunch of air out and then got my pedal back
a bit disappointing how much the motor sounds like a big 4cylinder
👍👍👍👍
When you braked there was a lot of movement on the gearstick….is that OK?
I thought I saw it jump out of gear by itself -- right?
@@hydroxacte Not sure I saw it jump out of gear but moved quite a bit.
Well, it looks like you’re well on your way to getting your inspection taken care of. I was wondering where you purchased your alignment tools and do you have an address? I have a license plate I would like to send you cheers mate.
Alignment on ebay. Address in every vid description ;)
Did you bench bleed the master?
1st goodness that is a first 😂
Do you know if the master cylinder can actually move enough fluid for the front caliber ?
Shoulda kept watching ... lol
The mount is flexing to much 12:18. Des not look safe and probably not good for the pedal feel.
Also while im complaining, there is one thing I dont like about the looks of the car... The headlights are to far out, making it look popeyed.
Otherwise its good!
🧐
It sounds like a 4 banger 🤔
It’s a flat plane crank V8, aka two four cylinders sharing a crankshaft.
Remember he also welded a plate between the exhaust x-pipe so the banks no longer merge
👏🍺👍🏻
Tip
If break callipers are assembled using rubber grease you can have a spongey peddle.
This is because the grease traps bubbles of air and won’t let it bleed out.
Use a safe solvent to flush the breaks or heat the callipers up to liquify the grease and use mentholated spirits to flush it out.
For gauges I used Realdash software on a Raspberry Pi to create this for my Beetle th-cam.com/video/ITJiZLoi-s4/w-d-xo.html
You have spent a lot of time over many episodes complaining about the gauges and the back lighting, blah blah wha wha. Then you build a permanent mount for your poxy phone. A great big, back light box, that doesn't match a dam thing. So many Kinds of wrong. Think, just think.
I hate this car. I wonder if others agree. I just wished he would not bother with it anymore on the show and proceed in earnest with his other main project.
If you don’t have anything nice to say, shut up.
@@computiNATEor it's a comment section. I say it how I see it, if you like it then fine. This car is just a never ending problem for Jeff. It will never be right, I can guarantee it. He has started on his main project, which should be his focus.
I don’t hate it. I just wish we could focus on getting one of the projects finished. There’s 3 on the go. I just think it’s time to finish and sign one off as complete.
@@ozbusa yes fair enough, why is Jeff persisting with the alfa when it's been done to death. It will never be finished. He will just keep finding things wrong with it.
@@dombarton2483You’ve clearly never owned a project car if you think there is such a thing as a “finished” project car.
Try pressure bleed you get a tube that fits over the break fluid put air pressure to push all the fluid out work great