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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Choosing the best belay device can be very difficult. There are so many belay devices available out there. So, if you would like to know how to choose the best belay device for you, then keep watching, because in this video I will do a belay device comparison and look into the different types of belay devices , and what they are good for.
And if you watch the climbing gear video to the end, I will share how to tie a Munter Hitch or how to tie an HMS knot, so you can belay your second on a multi-pitch rock climbing route or on an alpine climbing route.
But before we did this belay device comparison video then remember to subscribe to the rock climbing vlog if you want to receive more videos about rock climbing, ice climbing and alpine climbing in Europe - and gear advice!
Tube belay device like the Black Diamond ATC is the most basic belay device I would recommend. You would use belay device for sport climbing - rope or lead. Some brands like Black Diamond has made versions that provides additional friction to help catch the rope. This is a great beginners belay device and many people start here
If you are looking to do some multi-pitch climbing too, I would highly recommend buying a belay device with guide-mode. The most popular models are probably the Black Diamond ATC-Guide and the Petzl Reverso. A belay device with guide-mode has an additional loop, so you can attach the belay device to the master point of an anchor, so you can belay your second. However, the added price for getting a belay with guide-mode is marginal, so I would highly recommend that you get that right away
There are also assisted-breaking belay devices like the Petzl Grigri/Grigi 2/Grigri+ that will catch the fall and is a great beginners belay device if you are a beginner rock climber, or if you are having a long day at the crag. The Petzl Grigri is the most popular assisted-breaking belay device, but there are other great belay devices like the Wild Country Revo and the Edelrid Eddy. Belay devices like these are a bit clumpsy and heavy and pretty expensive too. I only use mine for long days at the crag, where people are projecting a lot and I can relieve my hands from holding the rope tight - as I would need to do with a tube style belay device.
Quite recently a new type of belay device has emerged. This is the semi-assisted-breaking belay device like the Black Diamond ATC Pilot and the Mammut Smart. These belay devices catch a fall much better than a regular tube and if you panic it actually locks off the rope, so you in theory could let go of the hand holding the rope. Semi-assisted breaking belay devices take the features of the assisted-breaking belay device like the Petzl Grigri and combines it the weight and usability of the tube. They are cheaper than a Petzl Grigri too. This would also be a great beginners belay device, but they are a bit more expensive than a traditional tube, but they lack guide-mode, so I would not recommend using them for multi-pitch climbing. And they can only take one rope, so you cannot belay a twin-rope our half-rope set up
Finally, you can tie a Italian Munter Hitch also known as an HMS knot to belay your second on a multi-pitch or an alpine climbing route. So, watch this video if you want to learn how to tie a Munter hitch or how to tie an HMS knot, so you can belay your second.
If you enjoyed watching this climbing gear video then hit the like button below, and let me know by leaving a comment below, if you have any questions on what particular belay device you should pick up!
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Either way, leave a comment below if you have any questions regarding how to choose the best belay device for you in 2020.
#belaydevice #climbinggear #gearcomparison
This channel is amazing. Your content is 5 star quality! Looking forward to see waht yuou come out with in 2020
Thank you so much, Samuel :D There are already a lot of plans for 2020 including a lot of climbing trips :D
@@Cragcloud I lived in Italy for the past two years, but just got into climbing this past August. I can't wait to go back to Europe and do some climbing on the legendary walls. Maybe I'll even do some ice climbs some day. It would be a dream come true.
Ice climbing is amazing! You should give that a go! If you are looking for ice climbing in Italy, then Cogne or the Dolomites are really great 😄
Mammut Alpine Smart 2. Can do Twin/Double/single rope setups, guide mode, assisted braking, super light, simple. Amazing device.
Nice! That sounds a bit like the Edelrid Mega Jul 😄 I can only find the Mammut Smart 2.0 that takes one rope 😕
Wish you were still making content, really enjoy your videos
i use the edelrid gigajul, best belay device ever, semi locking but is also compatible with guide mode. also, the DMM pivot is the best guide mode plate.
Yeah, the Edelrid Gigajul looks fantastic! I am actually considering getting one. It seems like Edelrid has take all the best of every belay device and combined that into the Gigajul. It looks great! :)
I never understand the comments about the grigri being quite expensive. Yes, it costs a bit more than other devices, but it also adds safety. You can get one for like 60 euros and you can use it for tens of years. If saving 20 bucks is worth more than saving someones life when you might get hit with a rock you probably should not be climbing at all.
I agree! It is a piece of gear that will hold for a very long time and it adds extra safety. Also, when you belay someone who is projecting and falling a lot it helps you as a belayer as it takes off the tension of you having to hold the rope all the time. It is a really good investment.
I know this is an older video, but I'm curious as to why the Figure 8 was left out. Light, strong, simple and dissipates heat well. The negative is rope twist. Very common for old school climbers and rescue and ice climbers in some area.
It's a good point. The Figure 8 has actually been abandoned and are not allowed by several climbing gyms in Europe due to accidents. Personally, I think the other belay devices are simpler and safer to use, but having skill in non-assisted belay devices are essential. I see to many belayers just get introduced to Grigri's from the start and then when they transition to an ATC, then they don't know how to handle the belay device.
@@Cragcloud Thank you for the taking time to reply. Ignorance and bravado generally do lead to accidents. I guess I prefer the Darwin approach for some folks (Just joking!) I'm an old climber & keep my figure 8 and an ATC. 8's are inexpensive, effective & simple to use if you have more than an ounce of gray matter, lol. I'm of the opinion if someone can't handle a figure 8 easily, do I want to trust my life on a belay with them? Pilots and GriGri's are great, tho!
@@konagolden3397 figure 8 doesn't friction for smaller people to be able to hold really big falls. And it can punch through the gate of the carabiner if it orientated itself strangely while belaying.
Easy, the grigri
Could you make video with comparison Grigri and some other assisted breaking device such as Eddy and etc?
Will love to watch it, too ❤️
Gutes Video! Ich kann das Gigri extrem für die Halle und Klettergarten empfehlen! Ich kenne jemand der bei der Schweizer Rega aktiv ist und auch schweizer Bergführer ist und seiner Meinung nach ist das Grigri am sichersten. Es passieren die meisten Unfälle mit dem ATC/Tuber, weil Leute es nicht zu bedienen wissen. Wenn mans richtig macht ist es sogar sehr praktisch fürs Sichern wegen der Blockierung. Beim Grigri das Bremsseil nicht loslassen, aber man kann trotzdem davon ausgehen, dass es automatisch blockiert. Sonst Halbmastwurf :)
I absolutely agree that the Petzl Grigri (or assisted breaking devices) is one of the safest belay devices out there. I actually heard about an accident in Nordwand Halle in Hamburg, where a traditional tube belay device was used. Apparently tube belay devices are now banned there and you need to belay with a belay device like the Petzl Grigri.
Cragcloud Ok I didn‘t know about that accident, good to know. I know though that HMS was banned in many german gyms.
ZzPumpking It was a couple of years ago. When saying HMS you are taking about those Super i belay devices, right? They are at least banned in my climbing gym here in Denmark
Cragcloud with HMS i mean Halbmastwurf, so no device, just a knot
ZzPumpking ahh...fair enough. I wouldn’t do that in the climbing gym too.
I think the Munter Hitch/HMS knot that I show in the video is great for alpine climbing when setting up a quick belay for a shorter sequence of moves.
Soweit ich weiß gibt's die Semi-unterstützten inzwischen auch als Alpine Versionen. Beim Mammut Smart weiß ich's jedenfalls sicher. Und wenn man weiß, was man tut, kann man auch mit dem HMS nen Vorsteiger sichern, wobei es wirklich nicht zu empfehlen ist. Sollten also mal beide ihr Sicherungsgerät in ner Mehrseillänge verlieren, kann man die letzte Seillänge auch mit dem HMS Vorsteigen und muss nicht Abseilen. Wäre mit nem HMS auch ziemlich nervig, weil man nach jeder Abseilstrecke erstmal die Kringel aus dem Seil machen darf.
I agree! There are some semi-assisted belay devices that I was not aware of when I made the video - like the Edelrid Gigajul, which actually looks really nice, and a great choice for multi-pitch climbing. I am a bit concerned about the weight, though, but I might give it a try at one point of time.
Yeah, I wouldn't recommend belaying the lead climber with a Munter hitch or HMS knot too. I think it is too risky, but you are right, in emergency circumstances you can do this too. I actually once tried to abseil on HMS because I dropped my belay device. I shot it with my GoPro and actually thought about including it in the belay device video, when I talk about Munter hitch and HMS knot - but it never made it, haha! ;)
It is possible to you use a HMS for lead climbing in multipitchroutes!
Twonix yes, technically, it is possible, but it can be a bor tricky giving out slack.
Where is that mountain with the cross on top?
Großgkockner in Austria 😄
another good belay device is the bear birdie
Thank you for recommending! 😄 I didn’t know Beal made belay devices, but it actually looks quite cool - pretty lean and simple 😄
That climb at the end looked amazing! Where is it?
That is Grossglockner in Austria :)
@@Cragcloud nice, thanks!
And the 8 peace?
Hms Knot? Clovehitch?
Thanks for your video. about munter hitch, u say it is only for belaying a second and not for leading, but there are studies that suggest using it for leading in alpine routes as it is the one gives less load to the anchor. The french ENSA did the test and show it in this video th-cam.com/video/eqZQnCGl24A/w-d-xo.html
You are absolutely right. You can also belay a lead climber :)
Edelrid giga ggez
Turn up the audio and speak up!!! I got the volume full blast and still cant hear you...