Very good and thorough video of the use of this machine. I recently bought one and this video was very instrumental in me learning how to use and cut rotors. Thanks
I've watched your video again and you are correct so many people forget about the scratch cut. and they wonder why they have a vibration on the car after a brake job
The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001". Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.
Two things I'd like to say. One is why did you use brake drum adapters to turn a brake rotor? They will not hold the rotor accurately and you will get brake pulsation in many instances. I've learned this the hard way. Your school needs to buy the brake rotor adapter hub set. Nice technique with the die grinder putting the non directional finish. I couldn't bear to watch the whole video out of boredom only because I do it every day but you did a nice job. You have good technique tightening and loosening the arbor nut. Thats how I do it. One thing I didn't see or hear you mention is you sometimes will have to manually remove the ridge at the outside diameter and inside diameter of the rotor. Nice video. You are a good instructor. I'm an L-1 Master Tech with over 40 years in the field.
I had my drums turned years ago and they only did a ruff cut and man they grabbed like hell. Had to take them back. I didn't know. Got an inexperienced shop person no doubt.
As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.
some people just use the youtube videos to criticize, thats why they don't learn anything.many of them are pretending to know a lot and i wonder why they dont do their own videos 🙄
The hub face is what needs to be checked to make sure its true. The braking surface will be cut to that. Old rotor braking faces get twisted by heat like a potato chip. So measuring there does no good. On bigger rotors its a must to make sure the hub is true. Then we have the inner cup is not true issue. If the clean hub is not true the first cup needs to be faced. You can do it this way on smaller stuff but not on the big stuff.
Proper rotor machining means you have to measure the runout on the vehicle and mark the high spot. Then set your dial indicator on the lathe and match what you measured on the vehicle. That's the only way to properly remove excessive lateral runout that may cause vibration or pulsation when braking. Rotor matching to hub is definitely an acquired skill. It really is not the simple.
As you tightened the red knobs to secure your cutting depth, I think it increased the depth of your cut. That seems like a shame right after precisely dialing in your zero. I could hear the the cutting get louder and go from a pulsing cut sound to a louder, more consistent one right as you tightened the knob. A possible solution would be to keep those red lock-down knobs just a little snug when you loosen them so it doesn't deflect the bit when you secure them again after adjusting cutting depth. What do you think?
daboroxson15 actually you are correct you should leave a little tension on the red knobs as you're turning the micrometer in to set your depth. if you leave the knobs loose once you tighten it down it can move the tool carrier and change your measurement
Hello sir this information is great I have Question I didn't understand can you correct me. first cut reading range and last cut reading range ? You told rough cut is it first cut ? can I take three cut or not if I feel there is uneven cutting?
"fast cut" is the same as "rough cut", fast cut generally is the first cut to take off most of the damaged rotor surface. The "slow" or "finish cut" is the final cut. You may take as many fast cuts as needed to get the rotor down to a finish that is acceptable to preform a rough cut.
You take 2 sets of OEM pads (I only work with OEM parts) with different timestamps and they wont be completely identical in width, depth or length. Point is, you should machine the entire surface of the rotor. No edges should be left
Dan Reed It does work best for larger stuff. But not for smaller. Time is money. Using the correct speed will save both time and money. As to quality it should be the same because the cross feed rate is the same in all speeds.
Yes, I cover that as well as hub runout in another class. This video was just made for my students so they could follow the steps of setting up the lathe. This video does not a show complete brake job.
How not to machine a brake rotor. Jeez that was painful to watch. Typical motor mechanic no finesse and that lathe needs bolting to the floor. Any vibration will set up harmonics at the cutting tip. This will cause waves in the cut. Maybe too small for the eye to see but still there and wearing out the pads. Why the jerking of the nut which is left handed it will not make it any tighter and will cause the thread to pull and distort eventually.? Most of what you did I taught my students not to do. Only 7 thumbs up I wonder why? Sorry if you feel I am being a bit harsh but that was not a good way to show how things are done.
+Gary C Tightening the nut in this way will in no way harm the threads. I've done it this way for 40 years "in the real world" and never had to replace a nut once. Bolting the lathe to the floor will do nothing for the vibration. Ammco made my lathe table with casters. The excellent rigidity for the ammco lathe takes care of vibration as well as the chatter belt. I would expect they know what they are doing. See my criticism above for the video.
Gary C I've been repairing and servicing brake lathes for 16 years now probably worked on 2500 different machines and I've never seen one of them mounted to the floor. as for damaging the threads on the Arbor that does happen when you over tighten the threads. Basically what I do and I keep other people is just bump the with with your hand and don't over tighten it. same goes for the stud that hold down the Twin cutter I don't know how many of those I've seen pulled out of the cross feed casting because people over tighten that
The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001". Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.
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Very good and thorough video of the use of this machine. I recently bought one and this video was very instrumental in me learning how to use and cut rotors. Thanks
I've watched your video again and you are correct so many people forget about the scratch cut. and they wonder why they have a vibration on the car after a brake job
I liked your video and have the same machine at my shop. Thank you for taking the time to go over your process in such detail.
besides the few mistakes you made this is the best video out there about machining rotors
sinned96 guiero saber el precio para rectificar tambores de camiones
Jose Diaz sorry I don't speak Spanish
The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001".
Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.
Two things I'd like to say. One is why did you use brake drum adapters to turn a brake rotor? They will not hold the rotor accurately and you will get brake pulsation in many instances. I've learned this the hard way. Your school needs to buy the brake rotor adapter hub set. Nice technique with the die grinder putting the non directional finish. I couldn't bear to watch the whole video out of boredom only because I do it every day but you did a nice job. You have good technique tightening and loosening the arbor nut. Thats how I do it. One thing I didn't see or hear you mention is you sometimes will have to manually remove the ridge at the outside diameter and inside diameter of the rotor. Nice video. You are a good instructor. I'm an L-1 Master Tech with over 40 years in the field.
Douglas Tees what are you talking about? Those bell clamps and centering cones can be used for brake drums or rotors
I had my drums turned years ago and they only did a ruff cut and man they grabbed like hell. Had to take them back. I didn't know. Got an inexperienced shop person no doubt.
As a factory-trained Ammco service tech I've collected a decent amount of genuine Ammco parts over the last 40+ years. I'm retiring and have a parts inventory list if you are interested.
some people just use the youtube videos to criticize, thats why they don't learn anything.many of them are pretending to know a lot and i wonder why they dont do their own videos 🙄
The hub face is what needs to be checked to make sure its true. The braking surface will be cut to that. Old rotor braking faces get twisted by heat like a potato chip. So measuring there does no good. On bigger rotors its a must to make sure the hub is true.
Then we have the inner cup is not true issue. If the clean hub is not true the first cup needs to be faced. You can do it this way on smaller stuff but not on the big stuff.
Great Tutorial, Thanks!
Como conseguir un shock para discos
Proper rotor machining means you have to measure the runout on the vehicle and mark the high spot. Then set your dial indicator on the lathe and match what you measured on the vehicle. That's the only way to properly remove excessive lateral runout that may cause vibration or pulsation when braking. Rotor matching to hub is definitely an acquired skill. It really is not the simple.
+amiyahira Which is typically done on a the car so you can also measure the hub.
As you tightened the red knobs to secure your cutting depth, I think it increased the depth of your cut. That seems like a shame right after precisely dialing in your zero. I could hear the the cutting get louder and go from a pulsing cut sound to a louder, more consistent one right as you tightened the knob. A possible solution would be to keep those red lock-down knobs just a little snug when you loosen them so it doesn't deflect the bit when you secure them again after adjusting cutting depth. What do you think?
It does not change the depth. Ive never had an issue with that, and even verified cut depth with a micrometer.
daboroxson15 actually you are correct you should leave a little tension on the red knobs as you're turning the micrometer in to set your depth. if you leave the knobs loose once you tighten it down it can move the tool carrier and change your measurement
Safety glasses are good but loose the rubber gloves. One of my customers was wearing gloves and it caught on the arbor and broke all his fingers
Very informative video, are the bits negative or positive and why use one over the other ? thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You dont need to hold a screw driver to the edge you can move the cutting bit in and do the same thing
Screwdriver was just to show up better on the video. Of course you can use the bit.
Hello sir this information is great
I have Question I didn't understand can you correct me.
first cut reading range and last cut reading range ?
You told rough cut is it first cut ?
can I take three cut or not if I feel there is uneven cutting?
"fast cut" is the same as "rough cut", fast cut generally is the first cut to take off most of the damaged rotor surface. The "slow" or "finish cut" is the final cut.
You may take as many fast cuts as needed to get the rotor down to a finish that is acceptable to preform a rough cut.
Ok, why did you not cut to the end of the surface on the inner diameter? Now there is a huge high lip on there?
Only cut where the pads ride.
@@danjreed not all pads are identical.
@@HristovRumen They should be if they are going on the same make and model of the car - otherwise they are cheap aftermarket CRAP.
You take 2 sets of OEM pads (I only work with OEM parts) with different timestamps and they wont be completely identical in width, depth or length. Point is, you should machine the entire surface of the rotor. No edges should be left
@@HristovRumen Then your OEM parts are garbage.
i like this ammco7000 machine can i get the price
is this machine take any size of rotors?
Ammco says up to 13" dia.
Question what kind of Safety Glasses are those? I also wear glasses but could never find a good fit.
+Heroko Ko Pyramex OTS Safety Glasses (Over the Spectacle)-Clear Lens
PYRS3510SJ
Thanks.
No mention of belt speed?
Slowest, IMHO, it works the best.
Dan Reed It does work best for larger stuff. But not for smaller. Time is money. Using the correct speed will save both time and money. As to quality it should be the same because the cross feed rate is the same in all speeds.
how long it takes to learn how to operate these machines?
The installer needs to clean all rust and dirt off the hub or all your good work is for nothing.
Yes, I cover that as well as hub runout in another class. This video was just made for my students so they could follow the steps of setting up the lathe. This video does not a show complete brake job.
@@danjreed Very glad to hear it . So many don't check things out properly .
How not to machine a brake rotor. Jeez that was painful to watch. Typical motor mechanic no finesse and that lathe needs bolting to the floor. Any vibration will set up harmonics at the cutting tip. This will cause waves in the cut. Maybe too small for the eye to see but still there and wearing out the pads. Why the jerking of the nut which is left handed it will not make it any tighter and will cause the thread to pull and distort eventually.? Most of what you did I taught my students not to do. Only 7 thumbs up I wonder why? Sorry if you feel I am being a bit harsh but that was not a good way to show how things are done.
+Gary C Thanks for the constructive criticism. This was mainly just a tutorial for my students.
+Gary C Tightening the nut in this way will in no way harm the threads. I've done it this way for 40 years "in the real world" and never had to replace a nut once. Bolting the lathe to the floor will do nothing for the vibration. Ammco made my lathe table with casters. The excellent rigidity for the ammco lathe takes care of vibration as well as the chatter belt. I would expect they know what they are doing. See my criticism above for the video.
Gary C I've been repairing and servicing brake lathes for 16 years now probably worked on 2500 different machines and I've never seen one of them mounted to the floor. as for damaging the threads on the Arbor that does happen when you over tighten the threads. Basically what I do and I keep other people is just bump the with with your hand and don't over tighten it. same goes for the stud that hold down the Twin cutter I don't know how many of those I've seen pulled out of the cross feed casting because people over tighten that
The larger bushing that makes contact with the inside surface which makes contact with the car's hub is critical . If it doesn't your braking surface is going to run out and will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal. You should tighten the bushing up without the rotor and check with an indicator to see how true it is running. I think it should run within .001".
Radial run out isn't important. Turning both braking surfaces is good as it will insure parlellism.
Yes, that is correct, however that is part of another class. This was just to show my students how to setup and use the lathe.