The buck converter that is only used to activate the relay for the ignition seems very unessasary. Could someone explain what the point of it is? Why not just run 72 volts that are going to the buck converter to the controller?
The reason for the buck converter is to power the control circuit on the relay, which takes 12V. If you used a solid state relay where the control circuit was rated up to 100V (the battery voltage), the buck converter would not be necessary. The reason I wouldn't just pass the high-voltage line directly to the controller is because I wanted the system to be designed where all the component - including the controller - operate across a single switch; the solid state relay. This is definitely more of a design choice, but its one that makes sense for me and simplifies any troubleshooting. Turning the key allows power to flow from the battery to the 15W buck converter, the buck converter powers the control circuit on the relay, the relay closes and power flows to the conversion box which is the source of power for all switching accessories. Here is a link to the circuit schematic for this system: imgur.com/a/RD7gYvB
@@GaiusGarageOk, thanks for the explanation. I did not realize that the solid state relay output was also used to control the 180W buck converter. Thanks for the quick reply! Love your videos by the way!
Thank you! Just posted a new video today actually and have another one in the can. Its coming along well - just need to do all the 12V wiring and it should be ready for its first ride!!
its just what I had available and using in the meantime. I just want to get everything else built and running, then will swap out the battery pack for one built from 18650 or maybe 21700 cells
@@MrDeceptacon88 oh because its only 20Ah - that's the biggest reason - range will be very low. Also lipo has a short cycle life (~800 cycles) and it becomes more dangerous to charge as the cell resistance increases with continued use
@@MrDeceptacon88 charging would not change based on whether the pack is old/new. Its based on the chemistry and capacity of the pack. For lipo 1C is what is recommended for safety and good cell health. But you can fast-charge up to 2C - for this pack (20Ah) 2C would be 40A. So you can technically charge up to 40A but you would be stressing the cells - this would lower their cycle life somewhat and is potentially more risky if a cell happens to become damaged
qs180 would be good too but I don't think it was out yet when I was choosing these parts. also qs180 is a bigger motor and Im not using a transmission so placement wouldve been more difficult. was just looking for a more or less simple build with this one
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Can you please share wiring diagram I your setup and what solid state relay you use ?
The buck converter that is only used to activate the relay for the ignition seems very unessasary. Could someone explain what the point of it is? Why not just run 72 volts that are going to the buck converter to the controller?
The reason for the buck converter is to power the control circuit on the relay, which takes 12V. If you used a solid state relay where the control circuit was rated up to 100V (the battery voltage), the buck converter would not be necessary.
The reason I wouldn't just pass the high-voltage line directly to the controller is because I wanted the system to be designed where all the component - including the controller - operate across a single switch; the solid state relay. This is definitely more of a design choice, but its one that makes sense for me and simplifies any troubleshooting.
Turning the key allows power to flow from the battery to the 15W buck converter, the buck converter powers the control circuit on the relay, the relay closes and power flows to the conversion box which is the source of power for all switching accessories.
Here is a link to the circuit schematic for this system: imgur.com/a/RD7gYvB
@@GaiusGarageOk, thanks for the explanation. I did not realize that the solid state relay output was also used to control the 180W buck converter.
Thanks for the quick reply! Love your videos by the way!
is it all ready?? love the build can’t wait to c the final project
Thank you! Just posted a new video today actually and have another one in the can. Its coming along well - just need to do all the 12V wiring and it should be ready for its first ride!!
Why are you gonna use the lipo pack rather than 18650 pack?
its just what I had available and using in the meantime. I just want to get everything else built and running, then will swap out the battery pack for one built from 18650 or maybe 21700 cells
@@GaiusGarage sorry..i meant why arent you going to use the lipo pack?
@@MrDeceptacon88 oh because its only 20Ah - that's the biggest reason - range will be very low. Also lipo has a short cycle life (~800 cycles) and it becomes more dangerous to charge as the cell resistance increases with continued use
@@GaiusGarage i see makes sense. Since those lipos are able to be charged at 20A, what would the max charging be at assuming they are fresh packs?
@@MrDeceptacon88 charging would not change based on whether the pack is old/new. Its based on the chemistry and capacity of the pack. For lipo 1C is what is recommended for safety and good cell health. But you can fast-charge up to 2C - for this pack (20Ah) 2C would be 40A. So you can technically charge up to 40A but you would be stressing the cells - this would lower their cycle life somewhat and is potentially more risky if a cell happens to become damaged
So many wires 🤯☝️🤟👽🚲
So with your contacter all thats doing in connecting main battery positive to the controller? And ignition turns the controller on seperate?
yes that is correct
Good job bro👊
why qs138 over qs180
qs180 would be good too but I don't think it was out yet when I was choosing these parts. also qs180 is a bigger motor and Im not using a transmission so placement wouldve been more difficult. was just looking for a more or less simple build with this one
@@GaiusGarage its the first gen qs180 anyways so thats fair
@@GaiusGarage any estimates on your range
@@Matt-og5kd isn't going to be much - just a 20Ah pack for now. maybe ~35mi?