Nice video! I see you also failed to split the actual cyclone unit thanks to the moulded in wires 😡 Makes stripping them for the full wash they need after 2 or 3 years impossible as you can't get to the hidden parts inside.
this is a great video. also shows why Dyson fans should stick to the V11. models from v12 onward are horribly unrepairable. wondering if they poached someone from Apple to teach them how to do it
Nice video. I have a V15 Detect. No issues with it whatsoever but I'm always curious to find what's inside gadgets that I use. Thanks for the tear down ! 😊
Subscribed! Nice vid sir! I know it’s a lot to ask because you’ve already put it all back together😂 but could you do a vid of a tear down as if you were doing a deep clean including the cyclone? Appreciate it!
I did not apply any other insulating material. The previous models (SV12, SV14) did not use this type of material. If liquid gets inside, there are enough exposed areas that can corrode the other side of the motherboard. I wouldn't worry about these exposed areas.
Good teardown... thanks... my nagging question has always been... do those little gold/orange 'turbines' that stick out around the main body of the V15 actually do anything? Looking at your video, they do indeed seem to be channels for air... but I guess my question then becomes... do those turbine air-channels then actually 'spin' the air that they get? (assuming, of course, they do get air during operation)
The Cyclone body has some air channels inside that are essential to generate a small air vortex and push the dust particles to the sides of the bin. Those gold "turbines" are fully functional, so they are not placed there just for a cool look. The process behind this centrifugal vortex is really interesting and will be worth its own video.
Great video just what I needed. However my v15 detect runs and then stops. Ive taken the bin, off and used a conpressor to blow out the filter and main head. This is still an issue and after about 4 uses it will stay on and can be used as a vacumm. Any ideas?
Please watch this video: th-cam.com/video/co8H-HtbyVI/w-d-xo.html You may have a similar problem. Follow the steps in the video to eliminate other possible causes. And, yes, it could also be a faulty MOSFET.
Good job. Following your video I was able to disassemble my dyson which broke falling to the ground, Unfortunately I have to detach the gold-colored part from the filter. Unfortunately, this is not seen. Could you help me? Thank's
Do you know how it detect the attached motor brush? I shows "auto" mode only when brush is attached, but my example fails to see the brush, and not supply power to it. I wonder is it possible to fix problem. Maybe the problem in some contact.
This problem can occur for several reasons. I recommend you check first if the brush works mounted directly in the vacuum cleaner, not through the extension tube. Check the other brushes as well. If the other brushes don't work either, it means that the problem is with the vacuum cleaner. In this case, do the following checks: 1 - check the vacuum cleaner connector if it is oxidized or deformed 2 - disassemble the vacuum cleaner and check the connector between the vacuum cleaner body and the cyclone housing if it has traces of liquid/oxide. 3 - check the electronic board if it has traces of liquid or oxide 4 - make sure that the two wires (white and black) are correctly mounted in the electronic board. 5 - in the worst case, it is possible that the mosfet that feeds the motorized accessories is defective and requires replacement
While waiting for a new motor my V11, I was curious about how the fitment of the filter is detected. I can see two small magnets on the filter but no corresponding Hall effect sensors on the main body/circuit board. All I can see is what looks like a surface mount transistor (U11) on the main PCB that is roughly in the right place to detect the magnet. Does anyone know?
The transistor that you correctly spotted is a hall sensor. It doesn't need two sensors. Depending on the position of the filter, the hall sensor will detect one of the two magnets.
Hi, thanks for the response. I’ve been trying to figure out what is wrong with the motor. The H bridge seems ok, I’m seeing pulses both positive and negative and there are pulses coming from the motor Hall effect sensor (U4) but the motor doesn’t run. I guess it must run for a moment because of the Hall effect pulses. I’ve measured the motor resistance at 0.020 ohms. It seems very low but then there doesn’t seem to be many turns on the coils so perhaps it’s normal? I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have.
Unfortunately, the display cannot be bought separately, it does not have a dedicated PN. If you're lucky, you can find it on ebay for about $50. In some cases, the broken display can make the vacuum cleaner completely non-functional. As a tip, if you can't find the display or would prefer not to change it, the vacuum cleaner can still be used if you disconnect the display. The vacuum cleaner will work on intermediate/auto power level.
I have both motors and mainboards of V11 and V15 on my desk now. At first look, you may think that is no difference between them, but... there is one big difference: the V11 motor has one magnet in the central rod that sends position signals to the hall sensor present on the mainboard. The V15 model doesn`t have that sensor and the motor doesn`t have the magnet present on the V11 model. So, you can`t replace the V11 motor with a V15 motor.
That`s true, that glue makes it almost impossible to repair. But, the purpose of that glue (conformal coating) is to protect the mainboard from harmful environmental conditions like moisture, thermal shock, static, vibration, and contamination. So, maybe is not so bad to have that extra protection :)
Thanks. Made cleaning it thoroughly easier.
Glad it helped
Fantastic how-to video! Best I've found, thanks.
Glad it helped!
Finally a nice detailed teardown
Thank You!
I’d love to see a non destructive disassembly of the motor. That is where the engineering is.
Nice video! I see you also failed to split the actual cyclone unit thanks to the moulded in wires 😡 Makes stripping them for the full wash they need after 2 or 3 years impossible as you can't get to the hidden parts inside.
Thank you! Check this video for deep clean: th-cam.com/video/A2XrfFNTU5A/w-d-xo.html
this is a great video. also shows why Dyson fans should stick to the V11. models from v12 onward are horribly unrepairable. wondering if they poached someone from Apple to teach them how to do it
Nice video. I have a V15 Detect. No issues with it whatsoever but I'm always curious to find what's inside gadgets that I use. Thanks for the tear down ! 😊
Thank you! I'm glad it helped. Cheers! :)
Subscribed! Nice vid sir! I know it’s a lot to ask because you’ve already put it all back together😂 but could you do a vid of a tear down as if you were doing a deep clean including the cyclone? Appreciate it!
Thank you! I already considering doing a video like that. Maybe in a week or two, I will manage to do it. Cheers!
@@techfixPOV you the man 🔥💯
😅 Great video interesting What waterproof sealant do you use to that peeled off the PCB
I did not apply any other insulating material. The previous models (SV12, SV14) did not use this type of material. If liquid gets inside, there are enough exposed areas that can corrode the other side of the motherboard. I wouldn't worry about these exposed areas.
Good teardown... thanks... my nagging question has always been... do those little gold/orange 'turbines' that stick out around the main body of the V15 actually do anything? Looking at your video, they do indeed seem to be channels for air... but I guess my question then becomes... do those turbine air-channels then actually 'spin' the air that they get? (assuming, of course, they do get air during operation)
The Cyclone body has some air channels inside that are essential to generate a small air vortex and push the dust particles to the sides of the bin. Those gold "turbines" are fully functional, so they are not placed there just for a cool look. The process behind this centrifugal vortex is really interesting and will be worth its own video.
Great video just what I needed. However my v15 detect runs and then stops. Ive taken the bin, off and used a conpressor to blow out the filter and main head. This is still an issue and after about 4 uses it will stay on and can be used as a vacumm. Any ideas?
I have heard of this problem before, but I have not yet had a vacuum cleaner like this with this problem to repair.
Did you ever find a solution, thanks
@portofluxe6326 yes, a new unit from Dyson with a lot of challenge.
None of my V15 brush head attachments spin. I watched your video on the V8. Think it could be the same issue on the V15?
Please watch this video: th-cam.com/video/co8H-HtbyVI/w-d-xo.html
You may have a similar problem. Follow the steps in the video to eliminate other possible causes.
And, yes, it could also be a faulty MOSFET.
Good job. Following your video I was able to disassemble my dyson which broke falling to the ground, Unfortunately I have to detach the gold-colored part from the filter. Unfortunately, this is not seen. Could you help me? Thank's
I have the same problem
Check this video: th-cam.com/video/A2XrfFNTU5A/w-d-xo.htmlsi=pWFRPpOqTpqI0xsr
Hello! Can you do this with dyson v12, please?
Yes, a video with the Dyson V12 model is coming soon.
What size of T screwdriver does it require?
Torx T8
Do you know how it detect the attached motor brush? I shows "auto" mode only when brush is attached, but my example fails to see the brush, and not supply power to it. I wonder is it possible to fix problem. Maybe the problem in some contact.
This problem can occur for several reasons. I recommend you check first if the brush works mounted directly in the vacuum cleaner, not through the extension tube. Check the other brushes as well. If the other brushes don't work either, it means that the problem is with the vacuum cleaner. In this case, do the following checks:
1 - check the vacuum cleaner connector if it is oxidized or deformed
2 - disassemble the vacuum cleaner and check the connector between the vacuum cleaner body and the cyclone housing if it has traces of liquid/oxide.
3 - check the electronic board if it has traces of liquid or oxide
4 - make sure that the two wires (white and black) are correctly mounted in the electronic board.
5 - in the worst case, it is possible that the mosfet that feeds the motorized accessories is defective and requires replacement
While waiting for a new motor my V11, I was curious about how the fitment of the filter is detected. I can see two small magnets on the filter but no corresponding Hall effect sensors on the main body/circuit board. All I can see is what looks like a surface mount transistor (U11) on the main PCB that is roughly in the right place to detect the magnet. Does anyone know?
The transistor that you correctly spotted is a hall sensor. It doesn't need two sensors. Depending on the position of the filter, the hall sensor will detect one of the two magnets.
Hi, thanks for the response. I’ve been trying to figure out what is wrong with the motor. The H bridge seems ok, I’m seeing pulses both positive and negative and there are pulses coming from the motor Hall effect sensor (U4) but the motor doesn’t run. I guess it must run for a moment because of the Hall effect pulses. I’ve measured the motor resistance at 0.020 ohms. It seems very low but then there doesn’t seem to be many turns on the coils so perhaps it’s normal? I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have.
Hello sir, I have v15. LCD screen broke by itself. Can you have any part number for only screen replacement
Unfortunately, the display cannot be bought separately, it does not have a dedicated PN. If you're lucky, you can find it on ebay for about $50. In some cases, the broken display can make the vacuum cleaner completely non-functional. As a tip, if you can't find the display or would prefer not to change it, the vacuum cleaner can still be used if you disconnect the display. The vacuum cleaner will work on intermediate/auto power level.
What kind of electric screw driver are you using?
this is Wowstick
I can’t put it back together now and I have voided the warranty.
Jk. Imagine….. thanks for the video chief.
That's a good one, I believed you for a moment :)) Cheers!
👍👍👍
🍻
Do you have reassembly
Yes, check this video: th-cam.com/video/vWgLBgmAMXw/w-d-xo.html
Hi, if I get a V15 main body and I already have a v11. Can I remove the motor of v15 and install it to v11?
Is there any differences on dimensions?
Hello, I will check to see if can be done and I will be back soon with an answer.
@@techfixPOV Thank you so much for the quick reply.
I have both motors and mainboards of V11 and V15 on my desk now. At first look, you may think that is no difference between them, but... there is one big difference: the V11 motor has one magnet in the central rod that sends position signals to the hall sensor present on the mainboard. The V15 model doesn`t have that sensor and the motor doesn`t have the magnet present on the V11 model. So, you can`t replace the V11 motor with a V15 motor.
@@techfixPOV Ohh I see, I actually realized that after watching the video, are the dust bins swappable between 2 models?
Yes, the dust bins are swappable, they are identical.
You didn't disassemble the brushhead?
No, sorry, I didn`t. Maybe I will do that in a further video when will be necessary.
Were is the Motor?
Please check at min 3:34.
All that glue over that chip is a shame. They could skip that to make it easier to repair
That`s true, that glue makes it almost impossible to repair. But, the purpose of that glue (conformal coating) is to protect the mainboard from harmful environmental conditions like moisture, thermal shock, static, vibration, and contamination. So, maybe is not so bad to have that extra protection :)
@@techfixPOVthank's