@Dave Hanson Nah, this is why you buy a retrode 2 and just dump all of your save data and roms and play through an emulator, save the original hardware, keep it in good shape, and still get to enjoy all of your favorite classics www.dragonbox.de/en/accessories/cartridge-dumper/retrode-2-cartridge-dumper
Thanks so much for doing these videos! I recently picked up a copy of Mike Tyson's Punch Out at a flea market for a great price and noticed it wouldn't boot when I got home. I was able to find three broken traces and fix them all thanks to these videos. It now works flawlessly and I saved $10 on the game! It's actually kinda relaxing therapeutic doing these kind of repairs.
Instead of soldering the battery directly to the board you could solder a CR2032 battery case to it and then put the battery into that case... that would be a cleaner solution which would make a future battery replacement easier too
@@Gorton how is that short term thinking in 10 to 20 years most people will have moved on I've had enough of retro collecting sold most of my expensive games replaced with a flash cart
Flush cut the battery leads, this will make it easier. This removes the battery that is acting like a heat-spreader absorbing all the heat from your iron.
It also doesn't help to first remove the all the solder from the bottom of the board. If the pad is dry, the iron only makes contact in small spots. Working on a fillet reduces the thermal resistance between the tip and the board -- as does using something better than a D1.6 tip. I'm assuming most people don't have a desoldering iron that's worth anything. Parts like this with only a few flexible leads can easily just be walked out of the board with the iron. Add solder, hinge part out, wick pads, replace part. Wicking is even optional. For something like this, you could just walk it back in. Before anyone complains that there's a risk of lifting traces on the top side, I have to point out that digging around and prying while insufficiently heating the bottom side is an even better way to ruin things. The same goes for scrubbing around with a weak desoldering iron, trying to get the topside fillet to melt or trying to get the last bit out of the hole.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC In fact PCBs are pretty hard to delaminate mechanically unless you do something very stupid. What kills them is the absence of preheating - and the thermal expansion that follows. So what I usually do with through-hole mounted stuff is preheating things (well, I always do this), applying much solder to have some heat storage - and then just pulling them out while heating with both the iron and some supporting heating (can be done even with a small blowtorch should you get used to it). Can require walking for wider components (some small ones can be just shaken out), but this never caused any bad consequences. Of course, doing this with a battery isn't the best idea though, so I'd just cut the leads off :)
Preheating is good advice. A lot of people recommend plate heaters, though I find that it works better to use your hot air station to add heat where needed. A hot air station (or heat gun) can couple heat to either side of the board and can be selectively applied, unlike a hotplate. But you're right. The whole thing is an issue of heat flow. The plating in the hole has such a thin cross section that it has a significant thermal resistance on the through-board axis. Similarly, the solder annulus has a small cross section and the alloy has low volumetric conductivity. A large part of the heat that you're coupling to the top side has to go through the part lead. This is why it's a pain to wick a hole after the lead has been removed. You're either going to have to increase the temperature or minimize all the resistances on the solder side, or you're going to have to bring heat to the top side via some other path. FWIW, the plating adhesion on paper phenolic is much weaker than it is for something like FR4. Especially if the board has been hot in service, they peel extremely easily.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC TBH I prefer to not use wicks for holes at all. Those are not SMDs so you don't care about any extra solder anyway, all you need is the hole itself. The most fun way I found so far was adding much solder to make it melt better - and next using a thin tube to just blow the air through the hole. Unlike the vacuum solder removers this requires no contact at all (even some significant distance is still ok), and the surface tension makes most of the solder just fly away should it be heated well enough. As for air guns, yes and yes! Hotplates take too long to properly heat things up (as your board has different heat diffusion paths and inconsistent IR reflectivity you are forced to heat it very slowly) - and with a gun you can control the heat gradient on the fly. Though I sometimes prefer smaller torches - as the flame is a stream, it has a lower pressure compared to the ambient air, as a result the colder air gets mixed in, creating a very stable temperature gradient - just find the "sweet spot" and use it :)
I have never seen a more thorough and helpful tutorial in my life. I learned so much! Thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us interwebs. I look forward to polishing and restoring some of my own personal collection! ❤🎮
True, if you watch AkBKuKu's video on him trying to add chips onto a ram board, he get solder on the pad and trys to remove it with a sucker, he ripped the pad itself off and had to use a little copper piece from a spare PCB to fix it.
Screw john riggs lol he doesn't know how to fix games 😂 in all his videos he just cleans them. He doesn't put effort on fixing the game. He likes to take the chips off and put them on a working board. Basically sacrificing a game to make the other game to work.
When you were trying to get the battery out with the tweezers, I remembered what I was thinking the last time I tried to replace a potentiometer on a guitar “damn, you need 3 hands for this sort of job”
Hey boss!!! When cleaning your pins. I use a big pink eraser. Then follow it up with IPA. It gets all that brown oxidation off the pins. For polishing it’s a whole different thing. You can use glass top oven cleaner. And it will get the pins superclean. But I prefer using brasso. And light scrubbing. Great job as always.
11:42 (and other timestamps) that yellow thing on the corner of the cartridge (lower-right of this timestamp), what is that? That's a really strong yellow unless it's just the same gold as the cart pins or something and it's just a lighting thing. Is that a water damage sticker?
Great video. When I repair my cartridges I use a metal polish called “Brasso” on the pins. It does a fantastic job of removing the tarnish and makes the pins bright and shiny. You have a new subscriber. 🤘
Brilliant, useful not just for fixing games. But fixing any old electronics. I have an old AM Radio in a vintage car which could benefit from a lot of these repair techniques also.
Great video, and love the quality of the new camera. You and the entire group are getting me fired up to get back into fixing, once my family and I get moved into our permanent home (in process of getting our current house put up for sale.).
Since u found gunk above the pins in ur 1st step, i would also clean the carts inner casing too as there will still be gunk left there that more than likely broke the 1st trace u repaired. non the less great vid mate.
You can also clean the pins with white vinegar. let it set on the pins for about 3 minutes & then clean it with alcohol. It is great for restoring the shine to the pins.
Can you use a CR1616 battery instead of CR2032 on SNES games? I'm thinking its possible but not sure. I had trouble installing a CR2032 battery holder with SNES Zelda LTTP PCB. I was considering installing a CR1616 battery holder instead. Id rather not do tabbed batteries.
Learning how these things work and what to do if something isnt working right is why I subscribed. Thank you! I imagine myself fixing my own old games in the far future. And with this sort of content, that vision can easily be reality.
Nintendo used to weld those batteries into the circuit board tabs. They should’ve made battery detachable sockets there for standard coin battery replacement. Like the CMOS batteries on the back of the Sega Saturn.
I wet sand my NES contacts with electrical contact cleaner and 2000 grit automotive sandpaper. Quit cringing. If your contacts were tarnished when you started cleaning and were shiny when you were done then you removed metal from them. That's how removing tarnish works, no matter what method you use. You can't get clean contacts without removing damaged metal.
Nice job, next time you use a eraser try a white square one (the cheap kids ones) not the one on the end of a pen and see if you notice a difference between the red and the white, i been using the white now 20+ yrs, thanks for the knowledge
The pencil eraser trick works amazing on lots of metallic oxides. I use it on silver coins and is the best way to clean the black silver oxide without ruining the original patina.
Q: Can you just use a circuit writer pen to repair those small lines instead of soldering? I did that on my car's dashboard touchscreen board to repair some broken board connections and it worked.
Could someone help me I know this is not related to the subject of the video but I booted up my SNES to play super Mario kart but for some reason when I did, it didn’t look right at all. The off-road green grass you see on the very first track of the game took the whole road to the point where I can’t see the road and same exact problem for the map on the bottom it’s all light green and I can’t see the road to play. Is the game cartridge the problem or the SNES because I booted up another game and couldn’t see the characters. Both the games are old I personally think it’s the games because they are both brown on the bottom and old
Love the video but a problem has come up for me. What’s the temperature you use for sauntering and all that good stuff. Is there any correct temperature?
I love your contents my man I've Fixed a ton of cartridges and consoles from watching you videos. But I have a recommendation for you I don't know if anyone has told you before but I have found that glass cook top cleaner does the best job of clean the pins on cartridges. Hope you find that useful and thanks for the videos.
Nice to see such enthusiasm in restoring a game into a working condition - you quess it - BUT, I must wonder why you didn't check the capacitors at all?!? After 26 jears all kinds of residue from this age has gone bad... I NEVER had only a single CAP measuring good from over 10 consoles and over 100 games. Maybe it's worth a try considering that, too! ;)
I have the same game and the screen just goes black. Sometimes it looks like it dose something but its just colored squares. I checked all the traces for brakes and it seams ok. Do you have any ideas?
I would recommend using a fiberglass pen, also called fiberglass scratch brush, instead of a box cutter to expose a trace. It's made exactly to remove solder mask without breaking the traces.
This was so satisfying to watch! Also, The Source associate here. Just noticed their brand (Nexxtech) of your solder there, if that is the case, that's awesome! Does that mean you're Canadian as well, or you visited one of the stores from over the border?
I know this is good to change the battery but my old Zelda nes cartridge has my old game saved again and the cartridge has over 30 years old... I know in computer, you have to change the battery at every 2-3 years, but never changed one in cartridge and game are still saved. Do you know why?
I recently got a copy of Lufia 2 for SNES and it boots up the Natsume logo then it restarts. I cleaned it still won't fully boot. I tested the pins with a multimeter and they all seem have no breaks. I haven't changed the battery yet, if that doesn't work do you have any ideas?
when trying to get the battery out, it's often easier to put on fresh solder as you did, then heat-up and use the tweezers like you did, then wick AFTER to clean up the pad's that remain - it's also easier to use the wick once the component is removed...
I have a game that gets stuck on the Nintendo title screen, do you have any idea why? I have clean the console and other games work. Just not this one game and it does it on two different systems I’m thinking it might be a capacitor but I’m not sure
Mr. Clean magic eraser also cleans pins very well. It's always best practice to follow up with 99% Isopropyl to clean any residue left in case there was any on the eraser or magic eraser that was used.
A better idea, do not remove the solder before removing the battery. Heat the glob as is because the connection would be better with the extra solder on there and while it's liquid then remove the pin from the board. Then soak up the remaining solder. It would have been much easier. Skip all the mess.
Cleaning the pins with a small piece of 400A wet or dry sandpaper followed by CFC free contact cleaner works much better. All of my 600 plus Nintendo game collection has been cleaned that way.
how come the snes test cart was Pal and super mario world was NTSC and they both work in the console? i thought ntsc version could not use pal carts without a converter
Hey could someone help i have a copy of super mario world but the small green round thermal resistor is not working and i need to get the part but can't find it
watched a few of your videos and made me get my snes out of the attic... but my issue is the console turns on and game starts but for afew second i have full colour but then slowlly it goes dark but u can still hear sound. How can I fix that? Thank you
Great fix! Love your channel.
TH-cam actually suggested something I'd enjoy.
Praise be the algorithm!
Eject button: "Am I a joke to you???"
Don't tell me how to live my life
It starts to get Loose If you push It too much times... Best way to preserve "mechanical" parts are not using them.
@Dave Hanson Nah, this is why you buy a retrode 2 and just dump all of your save data and roms and play through an emulator, save the original hardware, keep it in good shape, and still get to enjoy all of your favorite classics www.dragonbox.de/en/accessories/cartridge-dumper/retrode-2-cartridge-dumper
@Dave Hanson Or: just leave it on 24/7 to not wear out the power switch.
Really the eject button does what you can do by hand. It just applies extra leverage.
Thanks so much for doing these videos! I recently picked up a copy of Mike Tyson's Punch Out at a flea market for a great price and noticed it wouldn't boot when I got home. I was able to find three broken traces and fix them all thanks to these videos. It now works flawlessly and I saved $10 on the game! It's actually kinda relaxing therapeutic doing these kind of repairs.
Nice! Good job.
Instead of soldering the battery directly to the board you could solder a CR2032 battery case to it and then put the battery into that case... that would be a cleaner solution which would make a future battery replacement easier too
Battery will last over 10 to 20 years will you really need to replace it again
@@michaelholmes4374 short term thinking
@@Gorton how is that short term thinking in 10 to 20 years most people will have moved on I've had enough of retro collecting sold most of my expensive games replaced with a flash cart
@@michaelholmes4374TODAY THE OLD ORIGINAL GAMES ARE WORTH A FORTUNE OF DIAMONDS
Nice video dude. I enjoy watching these. Real chill and relaxing.
He's like the Bob Ross of microelectronics.
No, that would me.But not gonna lie this guy is awesome👍
Just found this channel and it is chill.
For reals! Hos vids get me relaxed and in a chill vibe, sometimes even helps me to fall asleep easily in a weird way lol
@@EvilishDem0nic8732WhatItDogood work😊
You do a great job with explaining clearly in your vids man. Keep it up
Flush cut the battery leads, this will make it easier. This removes the battery that is acting like a heat-spreader absorbing all the heat from your iron.
Ricardo Cooper also, heating a battery is a bad idea(tm)
It also doesn't help to first remove the all the solder from the bottom of the board. If the pad is dry, the iron only makes contact in small spots. Working on a fillet reduces the thermal resistance between the tip and the board -- as does using something better than a D1.6 tip.
I'm assuming most people don't have a desoldering iron that's worth anything. Parts like this with only a few flexible leads can easily just be walked out of the board with the iron. Add solder, hinge part out, wick pads, replace part. Wicking is even optional. For something like this, you could just walk it back in. Before anyone complains that there's a risk of lifting traces on the top side, I have to point out that digging around and prying while insufficiently heating the bottom side is an even better way to ruin things. The same goes for scrubbing around with a weak desoldering iron, trying to get the topside fillet to melt or trying to get the last bit out of the hole.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC In fact PCBs are pretty hard to delaminate mechanically unless you do something very stupid. What kills them is the absence of preheating - and the thermal expansion that follows. So what I usually do with through-hole mounted stuff is preheating things (well, I always do this), applying much solder to have some heat storage - and then just pulling them out while heating with both the iron and some supporting heating (can be done even with a small blowtorch should you get used to it). Can require walking for wider components (some small ones can be just shaken out), but this never caused any bad consequences. Of course, doing this with a battery isn't the best idea though, so I'd just cut the leads off :)
Preheating is good advice. A lot of people recommend plate heaters, though I find that it works better to use your hot air station to add heat where needed. A hot air station (or heat gun) can couple heat to either side of the board and can be selectively applied, unlike a hotplate.
But you're right. The whole thing is an issue of heat flow. The plating in the hole has such a thin cross section that it has a significant thermal resistance on the through-board axis. Similarly, the solder annulus has a small cross section and the alloy has low volumetric conductivity. A large part of the heat that you're coupling to the top side has to go through the part lead. This is why it's a pain to wick a hole after the lead has been removed. You're either going to have to increase the temperature or minimize all the resistances on the solder side, or you're going to have to bring heat to the top side via some other path.
FWIW, the plating adhesion on paper phenolic is much weaker than it is for something like FR4. Especially if the board has been hot in service, they peel extremely easily.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC TBH I prefer to not use wicks for holes at all. Those are not SMDs so you don't care about any extra solder anyway, all you need is the hole itself. The most fun way I found so far was adding much solder to make it melt better - and next using a thin tube to just blow the air through the hole. Unlike the vacuum solder removers this requires no contact at all (even some significant distance is still ok), and the surface tension makes most of the solder just fly away should it be heated well enough.
As for air guns, yes and yes! Hotplates take too long to properly heat things up (as your board has different heat diffusion paths and inconsistent IR reflectivity you are forced to heat it very slowly) - and with a gun you can control the heat gradient on the fly. Though I sometimes prefer smaller torches - as the flame is a stream, it has a lower pressure compared to the ambient air, as a result the colder air gets mixed in, creating a very stable temperature gradient - just find the "sweet spot" and use it :)
I have never seen a more thorough and helpful tutorial in my life. I learned so much! Thankyou for sharing your knowledge with us interwebs. I look forward to polishing and restoring some of my own personal collection! ❤🎮
That qtip squeak is like a nail through my head.
These videos never feel as long as they are. By the time you're done it's like, "Wow, that was almost 30 minutes!?"
Especially at 1.5x speed 😋
if only this video existed 20+ years ago..it might save most of my broken game..=) nice video by the way
Dude that's awesome. It hurts my back watching the tiny work. Like a claustrophobic feeling. I'm proud of you.
Great video! I usually put kapton tape on the edgeconnector before going near it with solder, hate when the nice golden fingers turn silver..
True, if you watch AkBKuKu's video on him trying to add chips onto a ram board, he get solder on the pad and trys to remove it with a sucker, he ripped the pad itself off and had to use a little copper piece from a spare PCB to fix it.
Your so cool bro!!
@@eKoV11 "you're" you mean?
@@kingearwigI'm from Brazil, you guys are awesome 😃👏🏻
Little hack, we use nail clippers to cut the wire as you get a very close cut and it tight spaces very easy to use.
3:10 that’s where John Riggs would have said the game is beyond repair lol
Screw john riggs lol he doesn't know how to fix games 😂 in all his videos he just cleans them. He doesn't put effort on fixing the game. He likes to take the chips off and put them on a working board. Basically sacrificing a game to make the other game to work.
I love to watch you fixing the issues. So satisfying.
It started up was such a warm feeling. That game was my first love
When you were trying to get the battery out with the tweezers, I remembered what I was thinking the last time I tried to replace a potentiometer on a guitar “damn, you need 3 hands for this sort of job”
Hey boss!!! When cleaning your pins. I use a big pink eraser. Then follow it up with IPA.
It gets all that brown oxidation off the pins.
For polishing it’s a whole different thing.
You can use glass top oven cleaner. And it will get the pins superclean. But I prefer using brasso. And light scrubbing.
Great job as always.
But I rather think the brass went off from the pins, because it was used a lot. They losed their colour.
11:42 (and other timestamps) that yellow thing on the corner of the cartridge (lower-right of this timestamp), what is that? That's a really strong yellow unless it's just the same gold as the cart pins or something and it's just a lighting thing. Is that a water damage sticker?
When you put in the cartridge... those sounds brought me back to my childhood. =)
Hearing you clean the pins gave me cold chills😂
Always clean the entire cart before even testing it, so your system doesn’t get dirty and break too. Nice work btw 👍
Rescued another one from the Trash Bin.... Well Done!
Great video. When I repair my cartridges I use a metal polish called “Brasso” on the pins. It does a fantastic job of removing the tarnish and makes the pins bright and shiny. You have a new subscriber. 🤘
Brite boy may also be worth a shot, similar to brasso but less harsh. :)
No nail polish on the broken trace this time. But hey, it does work. Great job !
Brilliant, useful not just for fixing games. But fixing any old electronics. I have an old AM Radio in a vintage car which could benefit from a lot of these repair techniques also.
Great video, and love the quality of the new camera. You and the entire group are getting me fired up to get back into fixing, once my family and I get moved into our permanent home (in process of getting our current house put up for sale.).
Did I miss it or did he never actually test his jumper?
Since u found gunk above the pins in ur 1st step, i would also clean the carts inner casing too as there will still be gunk left there that more than likely broke the 1st trace u repaired. non the less great vid mate.
at 11:50ish and 17:51 you can see where theres solder between the traces, and between two pads on the back...
I saw it too... But then noticed that both pads were directly connected to the ground plane.
What kind of stand do you use to put your phone in?
Killer Queen. It has a nice compartment in it's stomach area
I didn't know u could fix it like that.
Also strangely satisfiyng and relaxing
You can also clean the pins with white vinegar. let it set on the pins for about 3 minutes & then clean it with alcohol. It is great for restoring the shine to the pins.
Can you use a CR1616 battery instead of CR2032 on SNES games?
I'm thinking its possible but not sure.
I had trouble installing a CR2032 battery holder with SNES Zelda LTTP PCB.
I was considering installing a CR1616 battery holder instead.
Id rather not do tabbed batteries.
"Quick repair video" = 27min :D
27 youtube Mins might as well be hours in real time.
Learning how these things work and what to do if something isnt working right is why I subscribed. Thank you!
I imagine myself fixing my own old games in the far future. And with this sort of content, that vision can easily be reality.
"to desoder, the first thing i like to do first is add more soder"
Me: *surprise pikachu face*
It sounds weird but it's the way to do it
Desolder..... Solder.
It helps form a bridge to allow the heat from the iron to flow into the joint easier.
Nintendo used to weld those batteries into the circuit board tabs. They should’ve made battery detachable sockets there for standard coin battery replacement. Like the CMOS batteries on the back of the Sega Saturn.
Thanks for not editing out the solder reflowing asmr
The cleaning of the pins makes my ears and soul bleed
I read this before watching and though, how bad could it be?
But you nailed it
OMG I wish there was a warning for this, ouch.
EdgyShooter i was going to comment exactly what you said lol
I wet sand my NES contacts with electrical contact cleaner and 2000 grit automotive sandpaper. Quit cringing. If your contacts were tarnished when you started cleaning and were shiny when you were done then you removed metal from them. That's how removing tarnish works, no matter what method you use. You can't get clean contacts without removing damaged metal.
@@adamgh0 i understand this, but it doesn't make it any less painful to hear... Also can't believe you used the word cringe unironically.
Nice job, next time you use a eraser try a white square one (the cheap kids ones) not the one on the end of a pen and see if you notice a difference between the red and the white, i been using the white now 20+ yrs, thanks for the knowledge
Do you know what would cause the graphics to be glitchy? I have Super Black Bass and it comes on and works fine just glitchy graphics.
Thanks
I had no idea SNES cartridges had batteries in them! Do they have something to do with saving data?
Yep
SRAM (Static RAM) backup battery, this hold the save files. Not all cartridges have them..
I bet the ejection lever is worn out from him forcing the cartridges out without pushing the eject button, and he calls himself a repairman, smfh.
wouldn't you want to add solder to each pad so any repair would be more reliable
The pencil eraser trick works amazing on lots of metallic oxides. I use it on silver coins and is the best way to clean the black silver oxide without ruining the original patina.
Q: Can you just use a circuit writer pen to repair those small lines instead of soldering? I did that on my car's dashboard touchscreen board to repair some broken board connections and it worked.
Nice can you show us you trying to fix a broken nes
I've got one i haven't tested yet in my latest mail day, so maybe
RetroRepairs you should definitely do that
He’s got an older video of him fixing one if you can’t wait :)
Super nes not nes dumbo
Go Away I want him to fix a nes not a super nes I know the difference
Could someone help me I know this is not related to the subject of the video but I booted up my SNES to play super Mario kart but for some reason when I did, it didn’t look right at all. The off-road green grass you see on the very first track of the game took the whole road to the point where I can’t see the road and same exact problem for the map on the bottom it’s all light green and I can’t see the road to play. Is the game cartridge the problem or the SNES because I booted up another game and couldn’t see the characters. Both the games are old I personally think it’s the games because they are both brown on the bottom and old
Love the video but a problem has come up for me. What’s the temperature you use for sauntering and all that good stuff. Is there any correct temperature?
I love your contents my man I've
Fixed a ton of cartridges and consoles from watching you videos. But I have a recommendation for you I don't know if anyone has told you before but I have found that glass cook top cleaner does the best job of clean the pins on cartridges. Hope you find that useful and thanks for the videos.
Thanks to your videos that I fixed my broken cartridges. First timer at soldering and I did great 😉 thanks bud!
Nice to see such enthusiasm in restoring a game into a working condition - you quess it - BUT, I must wonder why you didn't check the capacitors at all?!?
After 26 jears all kinds of residue from this age has gone bad... I NEVER had only a single CAP measuring good from over 10 consoles and over 100 games.
Maybe it's worth a try considering that, too! ;)
I have the same game and the screen just goes black. Sometimes it looks like it dose something but its just colored squares. I checked all the traces for brakes and it seams ok. Do you have any ideas?
I would recommend using a fiberglass pen, also called fiberglass scratch brush, instead of a box cutter to expose a trace. It's made exactly to remove solder mask without breaking the traces.
This was so satisfying to watch!
Also, The Source associate here. Just noticed their brand (Nexxtech) of your solder there, if that is the case, that's awesome! Does that mean you're Canadian as well, or you visited one of the stores from over the border?
He's clearly Canadian, Listen to him say 'Out' at 20:00
These vids are therapeutic, I swear. Lol.
What stuff are you using? What king of multimeter, soldering tool etc... please I need to know
Do you have a basic/beginner equipment list posted anywhere? Nintendo Screw bit, Flux, Soddering iron etc?
I don't, but I'm working on a video that goes over some of the stuff I use
I know this is good to change the battery but my old Zelda nes cartridge has my old game saved again and the cartridge has over 30 years old... I know in computer, you have to change the battery at every 2-3 years, but never changed one in cartridge and game are still saved. Do you know why?
I recently got a copy of Lufia 2 for SNES and it boots up the Natsume logo then it restarts. I cleaned it still won't fully boot. I tested the pins with a multimeter and they all seem have no breaks. I haven't changed the battery yet, if that doesn't work do you have any ideas?
when trying to get the battery out, it's often easier to put on fresh solder as you did, then heat-up and use the tweezers like you did, then wick AFTER to clean up the pad's that remain - it's also easier to use the wick once the component is removed...
I have a game that gets stuck on the Nintendo title screen, do you have any idea why? I have clean the console and other games work. Just not this one game and it does it on two different systems I’m thinking it might be a capacitor but I’m not sure
There are rubber blocks with sanding bits mixed in, they're to polish Guitar frets. That should work wonders with the worn out pins.
What's the common fault on that chip and how can I fix it? Got a super Mario world 2 I just can't seem to fix
Is it basically the same for NES cartridges? I have a bunch of classics that are struggling to play I would like to fix.
If you can get them to play at all, they likely just need cleaning.
0:55 did this man just take the cartridge out without hitting the eject?
All the eject does is lever up the cart slightly. There's no hazard to cart or console by inserting or removing it this way.
@@raggededge82 nah bruh it lifts it out with even pressure. theres a reason for everything
Mr. Clean magic eraser also cleans pins very well. It's always best practice to follow up with 99% Isopropyl to clean any residue left in case there was any on the eraser or magic eraser that was used.
Awesome job! What kind/size of wire do you use to repair the traces?
I have 30 gauge stranded wire, and usually use 2 individual strands, not sure exactly what size the individual stands end up being
I have a PCB that only works without graphical errors when it's not encased in it's plastic cart' case any ideas?
Hi RetroRepairs nice soldering,what brand of soldering iron you use on the video?
I use a hakko fx-888D. It's a pretty solid starter station for the price.
Hey, the video for my Super Mario World is distorted. Any advice to fix it???
A better idea, do not remove the solder before removing the battery. Heat the glob as is because the connection would be better with the extra solder on there and while it's liquid then remove the pin from the board. Then soak up the remaining solder. It would have been much easier. Skip all the mess.
Correct. Also to not use the very edge of soldering iron in these jobs.
What do you do with all of these games? Good work by the way!
I always learn something about retro game repairs from your videos.
how did that circuit got broken in the first place?
you resolder without flux? Oh nooo. Which heat are you using?
Wow that looks like an early model snes console and it's still has it's nice original gray color, no yellowing at all. Where did you buy it?
Cleaning the pins with a small piece of 400A wet or dry sandpaper followed by CFC free contact cleaner works much better. All of my 600 plus Nintendo game collection has been cleaned that way.
Would it be possible to solder in a battery holder, rather than a battery for easy replacement later?
Yes, but later will be another 25 years from now. I'm not worried about it
That was a pretty cool trace repair, learned a new trick from you today.
Maybe that is why my all stars isn't saving everytime I take it out of the system.
I'm curious why just a little bubble of solder wouldn't bridge that break in the trace?
Not enough solder can stick to the trace to cover the gap
how come the snes test cart was Pal and super mario world was NTSC and they both work in the console? i thought ntsc version could not use pal carts without a converter
It's not a PAL, it's an NTSC cart in a super famicom shell so it can work on either. Not sure if it would work on a pal system or not
Hey could someone help i have a copy of super mario world but the small green round thermal resistor is not working and i need to get the part but can't find it
Can you do this for regular Nintendo games too
2:09 What's the opposite of ASMR?
RMSA...
Fingernails on a Chalkboard
Pro tip- You can get battery holder that you can solder in to make it so you just bob the battery out and replace without soldering it again.
What potential problem does resoldering fix?
Louis Rossman: "That's not the right amount of flux".
Checking PPBUS G3
hahahahahahahhahahahhahahahhahahhahahahhahahahahhahahahahahahahahaha best comment eveeeer!
bad resolders. you should change your iron
Bad techniques
I don't know why I watch this shit, but I love it.
You ever use brightboy to clean the pins
that zoom is amazing, you said that's with a phone ?
watched a few of your videos and made me get my snes out of the attic... but my issue is the console turns on and game starts but for afew second i have full colour but then slowlly it goes dark but u can still hear sound. How can I fix that?
Thank you
I think you've got bad capacitors. They might need to be replaced
@@RetroRepairs thank you for your reply... it was the rgb/scart cable... it had 3 extra capacitors in it once removed it all works fine.
do u customize retro consoles im looking for a backlight to be put into my Gameboy
Picture and sound quality are excellent. The new phone is great!
Adam is there a video that you can show on how to replace the copper pins on a Nintendo cartridge game?
I haven't done that yet. I've got a couple i need to do though.