Welcome to the club of endlessly watching your printer print even though you've seen it a thousand times. I have been 3D printing stuff for about 3 years now and I still catch myself just watching it go lol.
I’ve designed commercial equipment, and built them as well. I should feel as though I can just start using something. But I always read the manuals. You never know when there a gotcha somewhere that you will only find out from the manual. The more complex the equipment, the more important the manual is. I’ll tell people something else. Often when a “creator” throws the manual over their shoulder while making some pithy comment about how they don’t need it, after the take is shot, they pick the manual up and read it. Yeah, it’s not cool here in the states to admit you should read manuals. But you really should.
Dude I was thinking this guy is annoying me not knowing jack shit. But then I thought, he should be able to do what he wants on his channel why am I annoyed?🙃
@@DefenseIsLacking Would have been better if the video was slated as a first impressions/beginner video. Not a "should you spend your money on THIS machine? Is it THE BEST?" But people without a following resort to clickbait.
Another Wisconsinite here. Awesome video. I have had my Bambu x1c since April. I preordered a Prusa MK4. Was told they were in stock and then later was told I would have to wait until June. I cancelled my order and ordered the Bambu x1c and had it to my door in 4 days. I couldn't be happier. One thing people over look with the AMS system is the ability to use support material and print another material. I have had near flawless prints with it and have saved me many hours of detailing prints later. I came from an ender 3 pro and could not recommend a Bambu x1c anymore. Keep it up enjoy it. Wish my GF would get into this hobby as well!
I have owned a 3D printer since 2011 and used the machines at work since 1994 and this is the greatest thing I have seen in hobbyist 3D printing period. TIP- Leave the door open when printing PLA
This was a nice video to come across. I have a X1C and been using a Wham Bam PEX plate since day 1 along with gluestick to easily remove the object from the PEX plate. It’s been a hassle free experience and I don’t believe I’ve experience a single failure. 500+ hours of print time on mine. Hope you’re still enjoying the printer.
the issues will come later, bambu labs hasnt started charging fee's for everything and corralling users to their stores, it's the chinese version of apple kind of, only no laws in place in their country to stop them from being evil empires, they already have been up to sketchy stuff, they require a profile account and login to use their machine, all your collected data is sent thru china, and then back into your home, this is a terrible idea, for anyone. also they collect data that has no bearing on 3d printing, or anything, things like types of devices that you wander close to or wifi's you walk past, they collect that, they dont need that info, they are literally chinese spys in your home and even if i'm crazy, or dumb , they are still gonna get their cloud hacked every other month, because their security alweays is bad (because most of the hacking is coming from them anyways)so either way, when you use devices and services that force you to login to their cloud or use their cloud, or make a profile whatever, thats always bad but i think it's fine, i think every single person who buys this printer already has an iphone so they are used to that i think, i couldnt ever do it, it doesnt even look like a cool idea, it looks horrible, prints great, until it doesnt and then your boned, cuz good luck fixing on it, eventually i bet they will slow or stop updating older machines to make you fork over for a new one.
For the "scar", in the slicer you can adjust the seam location. Also, silk filament has poor adhesion between layers. So you have to be super careful with them as you saw. Good luck. I love my X1C.
@@TwoMooseDesign Enjoy your printer, you have no idea how good you have it! While learning from earlier buggy printers was very useful, I could have done away with some of it.
Yeah, the support material requires different settings, so a bency that was sliced for PLA isn't going to print correctly. You could print a benchy in support material and have it come out half decent I'd think, but it would be a waste given the relative costs, and I have no idea how durable the material is since it was of course not designed to last.
I was thinking building Voron or Ratrig would be obsolete now days, but this video is a proof that no matter what marketing says, It's still a tinkering hobby not a consumer product. So when you build your own printer, you probably won't be so frustrated as when someone else builds it for you and charges you for it.
I’ve had mine for a few weeks now as well and this is also my first 3d printer. I didn’t get the AMS but I was able to get setup and printing pretty quickly. I’ve only had two failed prints and both were from me not doing the bed prep after many successful prints
@@TwoMooseDesign so far just Bambu pla but I was going to try some matter hackers PETG next. So my longest print so far was a Darth Vader statue which I printed in 2 pieces with a total time of 7:32. I am blown away how good it came out.
its annoying, but you'll want to leave the door open or the lid off when printing in PLA or PETG. also, if you're using the cool plate, make sure there is a good layer of glue. The glue does help it stick, but its ment to not have it stick to the plate. I love my X1C. took me some trial and error to get the kinks worked out. i thought it was a broken machine, here to find out it was an iD10T error. all me. Great buy, you'll love it! welcome to the 3D printing world! I just got my first CNC for wood working. Have fun! y'all are great!
give more time before you try and remove items (cool down) and you can create a larger area around the actual final object. That helps with bases falling apart when you pull them apart.
Greetings from Madison! Just found your page and thank you for the 3D printer reviews. Been looking for a box type printer and you covered all the ones I've been looking at!
Suuuuper excited! I used sketch up for furniture design, it became so limited. I finally jumped to shapr3d and it’s sooo much better for more detailed modeling. I just found your channel last night and watched a few videos! Great stuff, definitely subbed. Thanks for stopping by 👊🏼
I already have Prusa MK3 and thought about getting the MK4, but after getting X1Combo last Thursday, I'm glad I did! When you add the cost of Prusa enclosure, MMU3, and shipping, Bambu is actually cheaper. Besides, AMS hasn't had a single issue yet, unlike MMU2S on Prusa which almost always need some correcting when printing! Oh, and don't forget, Bambu can print up to 16 colors!
@@TwoMooseDesign Prusa is definitely a quality brand. Is it worth getting now when there's Bambu and Creality K1? Not sure🤔 If one has the funds (in this crazy economy) to play around and buy printers for science, I'd say go for it!😉
great vid! still trying to decide between the carbon and the ps1. love the wedding band btw, it's what my wife and I use since we work with our hands a lot.....super comfy!
Thanks! The p1s is plenty! The extra bells and whistles of the X1C is nice but not needed. If you can swing it great if not i wouldn’t stress it. P1S with an AMS is the best bang for you buck right now in my opinion
Bought this printer after waiting for my prusa mk4 for over 2 months to deliver. (It's still not here). I'm pretty sure this things going to put the mk4 to shame. This is just an amazing printer and a huge upgrade coming from an ender3.
Started with an Ender 6, then got an Elegoo SLA printer, then got a Prusa MK3S+, and then got my X1 Carbon. The X1 Carbon is by FAR the best printer I've had. No issues with it and it puts my Prusa and Ender to shame. I've been modeling and printing for a few years as well.
@@TwoMooseDesign I really like my Elegoo Resin printer. Super clean prints and pretty easy to post process with the cleaning and curing station from Elegoo as well.
@@Vindold They have their pros but also have a lot of cons. Resin does come out with a lot of detail. But requires a lot of post processing. I like my resin printer, but I'm very selective over what I resin print due to the time and post processing.
I’ve never seen the bottom layer rip off of anything before. I would say it’s probably because you should’ve just let it cool on the countertop or a piece of marble first, instead of trying to rip it right off the hot bed while everything still warm.
Fun video. Good intro to 3D printers. It’s definitely not as easy as the manufacturers want you to believe. One note that makes Prusa better than almost all the rest. The support they offer is the best in the industry. Trade off is sometimes speed. We use fans to cool the plates for 10-15 minutes before removal of items(usually. lol). You’ll get a feel for it. Try not to bend the plates too much. The item should just come off the plate easily with no effort. Also. Only use glue if you are getting peeling off the heat bed. Very rarely. Watching the video I almost said it looks like a support PLA. Much more costly. So use it wisely. ;-) Lastly. For your parts for the shelves. Use PETG instead of PLA. Much stronger and harder filament. PLA is good for modeling. Generally if you are going to paint it. Slow and steady wins the race in 3D printing. Consistency is the key. I tried not to Mansplain. Good video..
I'd say that it's your first printer makes it all the more important. It's really easy to assume that everyone has the same knowledge base even if you are trying specifically to avoid that bias it really can be difficult to judge your target markets knowledge base. Honestly I really enjoyed the pov of a newcomer to 3DP but not a novice with tools.
It’s definitely tough, I’m very good with technology and know a bunch of design and 𝙲𝙽𝙲 softwares. I definitely have an edge, it would definitely come with more trial an error to someone who knows nothing about machines or computer softwares.
@@TwoMooseDesign Good with tech seems a bit of an exaggeration, I cite the stripped screw as evidence. Good thing the woman was there to help you assemble it. I'd also advise that you never buy ikea.
I'm in love with my Bambu X1C with 4 AMS systems, using Esun and Sunlu without too many problems! Best filament would be BambuLab's own filament because of the RFID tag.
@@TwoMooseDesign yeah, I only use the AMS for colour switching because I’m too lazy to change the rolls myself. And they keep the filament dry with the desiccant upgrades.
Sunlu pla+ ist what i use for a while now. No tangles so far. Also you dont need glue on a pei bed. If you remove big prints wait for the bed to cool before you bend it or it May cause the Print to Warp.
The *best* hex key wrenches I know of are Bondhus. They have a ball on the long end, and they wear *very* well - I have never worn one out, or broken one, and they do not strip out screws.
I have had 4 3D printers over the years and mostly use a hobbyist and like to tinker. Now I want one that just works (no tinkering just maintenance); on a budget of course lol. So, I am going to wait and see what other competing products start to appear on the market.
I'm really excited to see how the MK4 performs, Its a little cheaper. I'd assume someone will come out with a more affordable version soon. I believe the p1p isnt too bad
@@TwoMooseDesign Hello week ago i bought a P1P Yeah it do not have enclosure but ots incredible, it is better than MK4 but a lot of cheaper, If you want to print with PLA/PETG/TPU and other materials which do not need enclosure P1P is the way... its cheaper but its printing with the same speed. But with P1P you dont have touchscreen, but i always use bambu app so i dont need it also it do not have lidar but i watched a lot of review and i tried it lot of time myself and the bed leveling is such a good that you dont need a lidar
Same with me - I had 5 hobbyist chinese printers (Enders, Anycubic...) it was fun, but required a lot of work to make it work right.... Then I bought Prusa MK3s and it was WOW - now it works every single time. So now I understand why printing farms use Prusa Printers... they simply always work. Bambu labs is also fine, but their priority is speed but I am more into print quality and affordability.
@@xhobv02o a prusa mk4 that's 800 kit or 1100 assembled or the prusa xl at 3500 is affordable? u the first ever seen call prusa affordable. reliable great build quality just prints yeah but affordability not so much
The price range and lead time and assembly time for the Prusa XL fully loaded was the deciding factor for me..... Now I need to decide X1c or the P1P fully load with AMS......
Tempting piece of kit! Been with anycubic since i started 3d printing a few years ago but this is looking like a good brand from what i've read and watched so far. Liked and subbed :)
The X1-Carbon Combo is my second 3D printer. My first was a AnyCubic hand-me-down from Daniel when he upgraded the PwnCNC printing farm to the Prusa i3 Mk3s. I think the AnyCubic was worn out because I never got it working really. When Daniel purchased all the X1-Carbon Combo's for the PwnCNC mega-garden I got one as well. It's like getting a Thunder Laser for your first laser... it just works. I'm already printing with PA12-CF perfectly.
12:31, you can change seam settings.. scar begins only if there is nowhere to hide the seams.. maybe change parameter to random. Bambu Studio, click preview and watch all the seams and etc.. if you're happy with it.. hit print button. My 2 cents~ Oh, others already mentioned that.. I'm late in bandwagon. :D Fun episode, keep it coming! 😎👍
Sure, 3D printing is not idiot proof yet. But.. compare to Aneth A8 kit that required perpetual DIY upgrade before it bless you with 1 great print out of 3 failed... that Bambu is the king so far (and for a reasonable price in his category).
@@TwoMooseDesign Never heard of K1 Max. I'm curious! I have 2 cheap printer and I can't justify buying another one. And I suppose I cannot have a lot for them if I sale them. Having 2 is very nice: one can fix the other if broken. But if I have a nicer one that is never broken... I'll probably wait anyway.
Lidar only detects issues with first layer adhesion. The 'AI' feature is there to detect spaghetti prints and not all types of failures. I would say it's more of a gimmick than an actual feature. You could also set up your own 'AI' print failure detector; there are a few open-source software options out there! Use a PEI-textured plate; it doesn't need any glue.
Awesome review, I still think either buy this x1 carbon or the voron 2.4 since the technical guys make me confuse and also newbie and don’t understand well regarding 3d printing 😅
I’m very interested to see how you use it to make things for your woodworking shop. I’ve considered one for making attachments for my cnc, dust collection, etc.
Brand wise, I've always used Polymaker filaments. Filaments are a heavily unregulated industry in terms of safety so I wanted to talk to one of their materials engineers (coming from a materials background myself) and someone surprisingly contacted me back and we had a good discussion on the safety aspects of their materials and how to deal with PLA's, PLA+, etc.. (because who knows what the heck the additives in the plus is). Anyway, it basically boiled down to him saying something like "I personally wouldn't print even PLA in the bedroom" Anyway, they also plant a tree for every spool you buy (in theory).
It's probably been said, but if not... The LIDAR's not for detecting print faillures beyond the first layer. It's there for first layer inspection. The camera's supposed to catch the fails, which... It might do? Maybe? I've found that it's far from reliable atm.
Its too bad, with that big spool holder they don't have two hot-ends where you can have one nozzle print support material and the other prints the model. Then you can do soluble supports.
IKEA uses large 3D printers to manufacture furniture. I was also impressed to see an auto maker using a humongous 3dP to spit out fenders, hoods, doors, etc.
not an open architecture. you don't have full control over your prints, check to see if your designs are staying on the machine while in the slicer. problems with right to repair. did some test runs on this machine with a service and they had a lot of problems with fine detail. wanted it to be the one. will wait and see.
Maybe an unpopular opinion but honestly I believe the P1P is better than the X1C. The only downsides are the camera quality and connectivity but like even the lidar is not a major difference. Seeing as how most people print with PLA, this is literally way more convenient than the X1C. The textured PEI plate is great imo (it has amazing adhesion and I personally like the texture it leaves). For $699, it is unmatchable.
@@xIsouLcruSHca hey! I do bit think it’s overly loud. I’ve been told it’s louder than other brands. I’m not the best person to ask as I have a shop full of loud tools. It’s far quieter than my CNCs or lasers 🤷🏼♂️
@@TwoMooseDesign Thanks for the response! Does it have like a stealth/silent mode? Is the loudest part the extruder movement or coolingfan? I'm sure it'd be too loud next to my bed haha
I've got the mini and it is really fun! I am interested in getting an upgrade so I watched your video. I have 2 Prusas and get tired of switching out the filament on them when it beeps. There is a camera so you can watch your mini while you play video games or whatever you need to do. What is the carbon filament for? That is one thing that I am not sure I will need to print with carbon.
I've had about 10 different printers so far (last one was Prusa MK3S/MMU2S) and the X1C/AMS is by far the easiest and most consistent printer I've used. I really liked my Prusa, but this is much better. I assume the MK4 will be much better as well, but at this point I have no reason to try it. I do have a multi-head Prusa XL on preorder and I expect that to be a great printer (much more expensive, so it better be! 😀) My guess is I will keep both the Bambu and Prusa and just use whichever one is best for the specific print job.
Information Price alone never describes the value of something. You can buy some very old machine and know it has worked 20 years and is solid or buy a new product that has been made to last wich dies on you after 2 weeks.😅
@@melgross my expiriance has not to be yours. And those machines i have work all fine. So when you have nothinh constructive to bring to the conversation... Have a nice qiet day.
Great review. Probably worth noting that it's also not a good idea to mix material types & brands in the same print. Especially relevant if doing multi colour printing. Bambu uses a slightly different formula of PLA that can be printed quicker. So something to watch out for when also doing speed prints with other filament brands. Lastly, always worth refreshing the glue stick after each print especially for the area that was just printed on. This also helps to reduce objects sticking... :)
I've heard that Bambu Labs' filament is just Sunlu PLA+. Some people on Reddit said that they purchased Sunlu Filament, and it came in a box with the Bambu Labs sticker. Also, I think the VoidStar Labs guy was saying that it's Sunlu Filament, as well.
Hahaha. It’s like the products on Amazon. Everyone is selling the same thing made in the same factory in China by sweatshop kids. Different label on the box. Same product. Prices all over the board.
Very nice video! I'm still using my first 3D printer, a Prusa MK3S+ without an MMU. With all the problems I've heard about Prusa's MMU and the issues they are having with the MK4, I will keep the x1c or it's successor (when that happens) in mind. Since I've only had mine for a year, I'm going to hold off for a couple more years and see what develops in the industry. I'm only a hobby printer so time is not an issue, quality is though... and I've still not gotten my monies worth out of the Prusa.
MMU3 is fine on the MK3S/+ lines MMU3 Firmware also fixed all the issues on 2 and 2S. I'm printing a 25hr 5 color Ocarina for my niece. Almost done, 760 tool changes with a single fault that probably my fault for using not dried filament. 760 tool changes is more reliable than AMS, and it has much better waste management, AMS is around 2-3x more wasteful. I'm purging to infill and I can purge to another object if I don't care what color it is (ie a bracket or hanger). A lot has changed in the last year. In real world testing Mk4 is as fast or faster than the X1C with input shaper but IS isn't full developed yet, likely get faster yet.
You can use Magigoo adhesive for easy stick AND release after the print. This layer goes a long way and acts like insurance to your 3DPrint. It's water-based too, so it won't smell and is easy to clean.
It looks like you may have forgotten to use a glue stick on the cold plate as recommended by BambuLabs - I think that's why your model's bottom got stuck to your build plate
Your wife looks like the kind of wife that smiles while tolerating something, and the more tolerating going on the wider the smile but the less it reaches her eyes until all sort of smile is suddenly gone and things get heated :)
You are wasting glue. Just put it on the area it will print on. If your print says it has a 2 inch by 3 inch base then only put glue on the 2x3 area. All files can tell you the length width height of a project. But you only need to know what the size is that is actually touching the base. Everything else sits on a layer of filament. Putting glue where nothing is being printed on is just a waste. Great video!!!
In my experience the amount of gluestick you used could also be a problem. With PLA you often dont even need any. Thats more common for more challanging Filaments like ASA or PETG.
Maybe get a metal scraper for lifting parts, bending the magnetic sheet like that will put too much stress into the print and delaminate the layers. Try letting it cool before you remove it from the pad if you don't already. Personally I use a wet wipe to clean the pad before printing, because oils from fingers, and a very sharp slash cut tungsten steel 3mm rod for removal. I also watch the first 3 layers print and then check every 15-30 mins. Welcome to 3D printing, and shouting "WHY?" :)
As someone who has multiple printers including this one and a couple Prusa's they both have their benefits and disadvantages. Currently awaiting my MK4.
I think i'm hooked lol now im sure in a few months ill collect a couple more. Waiting to see how people take to the MK4 maybe ill buy one of those too.
That last one looked like a problem with layer adhesion and too much plate adhesion. If it was my Ender 3, I would increase z-offset, and maybe do a temp tower to compare temps with that particular filament.
thanks for the video, I'm thinking about buying one myself. cnckitchen guy said that when the bambu x1c prints fast the parts come out weaker which could have contributed to the bottom coming off your knife holder. How's the noise when you run it fast vs slow?
Hey! My print stuck too well and I didn’t let it cool so it broke at the seam. What he says is probably true 🤷🏼♂️ I have no idea but my prints are plenty strong and you can experiment with different materials as well for more durability. It’s not overtly loud. I always run it on normal mode, it’s already way faster than older printers. I keep it in my shop so I don’t notice the noise 🤷🏼♂️
Inland PLA+ is an awesome pla filament, it’s the one I use the most and is very consistent. The printer seems awesome out of box and has a lot of cool features, but at its price point it’s tough to swallow for me. it also doesn’t really seem to allow for easy tinkering, and the extreme plug and play nature/proprietary software doesn’t really force you to learn the basics of 3d printing, only what their software can do. overall definitely a cool printer and there’s definitely worse options imo. if it’s me, i’m going for a prusa, though
I agree the price is steep. I bought it based on hype haha. I have a roll of HATCHBOX pla+ and printed great! If I can sell some items or files I’ll definitely buy the new prusa to see how they run. The p1p isn’t priced too bad
@@TwoMooseDesign yeah the p1p is much more affordable. and i mean $1500 isn’t the most insane purchase for something like this machine. if i could afford it id have bought it lol. i would just try to watch a bunch of videos about basic problems and basics of 3d printing anyway (even though you’re likely to always have pretty good prints), as if you want to get a print farm-like setup going on eventually, you’ll probably want to know how to troubleshoot quickly on more machines than 1. not that you wouldn’t know this, just my 2 cents.
It is definitely overkill for just PLA. I wanted to get into functional printing with PA/PC/etc and the X1C is actually cheaper than an MK3S with an enclosure (and no MMS), so that is part of why I went with it as my own first printer. If you're just printing PLA then the P1P does get you everything you need really, at least for single color printing.
Always good videos and reviews. I have been wanting one of these, just cautious and curious how they stand up over time. For creating items with better quality always comes at a price.
Totally agree you get what you pay for most of the time, I have a few friends that have been running them hard for months but its hard to say since its pretty new. I've only owned it for a few weeks so i have zero input lol. Thanks for watching we appreciate it!
@@TwoMooseDesign The problem will come when you run out of warranty, All coreXY machines can be pushed this hard and achieve the same quality but it comes down to why? Maintenance is a thing and parts especially carbon rods and bushes dont last forever, and pushing things to the extreme just means failures sooner. Add to that that most of the printer is glued together and not user serviceable. I think in the coming year there will be more and more complaints.
0:05 - I'm a bit dubious about "Best 3D Printer" videos that start with, "This is my first 3D printer. I have zero experience." Best is very subjective. Privacy and security are very important to me, so the Bambu Lab policy of All Your Data Are Belong To Us was a non-starter for me. There is no legitimate reason to send my print job from my computer across the internet to the Bambu server and then back across the internet to the 3D printer that's two feet from my computer. It also didn't help a few weeks ago when the Bambu Lab server crashed, users were unable to print their jobs and after several attempts they gave up and jumped through the hoops to print locally (Bambu deliberately makes that difficult so users will use their server), and then the Bambu server was fixed and tried to print the backlog of jobs with Bambu printers in the US starting in the middle of the night and in many cases crashing into the manually printed parts that were still on the print beds.
Then don’t buy one it’s that simple 🤷🏼♂️ the title is a question not a statement. The machine has been great to me and I have several other printers at this point.
From this video, I would say one "flaw" with this machine is the icon color tends to imply you should be using the white pla like you did. Not knowing the difference between rolls, the icon should be another clue to help you figure it out.
Bambu has a very concerning privacy policy. Basically, any data you send to the printer Bambu reserves the right to collect and share with their third parties. That includes g code, CAD models, and webcam footage. That makes any Bambu printer a non-starter for commercial product development. I was considering buying one of these P1S or X1Cs to use at home to print prototypes for my work.
use the scrapper that come with the box. oh i mean the knife and you need to print the scrapper...... btw your filament is silk. it brittle because it properties is like that. thats why i like to see and hate to use.
That is super nice, I was just lazy because it wasn’t in Amazon haha. I want to order a few spare parts just in case so I’ll probably order a few more rolls
if doing alot of multiple color prints bambu filament is way go then lol pain to set the color for the filament in every slot every time u change colors or filament type for temperature
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
Welcome to the club of endlessly watching your printer print even though you've seen it a thousand times. I have been 3D printing stuff for about 3 years now and I still catch myself just watching it go lol.
I’m totally hooked! I totally space out watching it too. My 𝙲𝙽𝙲 and 3D carves is pretty satisfying too.
I kinda dont like people who don't read instructions and then immediately make a video using a new product.
I’ve designed commercial equipment, and built them as well. I should feel as though I can just start using something. But I always read the manuals. You never know when there a gotcha somewhere that you will only find out from the manual. The more complex the equipment, the more important the manual is.
I’ll tell people something else. Often when a “creator” throws the manual over their shoulder while making some pithy comment about how they don’t need it, after the take is shot, they pick the manual up and read it. Yeah, it’s not cool here in the states to admit you should read manuals. But you really should.
Not to worry.
I think his wife reads.
lol.
Dude I was thinking this guy is annoying me not knowing jack shit. But then I thought, he should be able to do what he wants on his channel why am I annoyed?🙃
@@DefenseIsLacking Would have been better if the video was slated as a first impressions/beginner video. Not a "should you spend your money on THIS machine? Is it THE BEST?" But people without a following resort to clickbait.
Another Wisconsinite here. Awesome video. I have had my Bambu x1c since April. I preordered a Prusa MK4. Was told they were in stock and then later was told I would have to wait until June. I cancelled my order and ordered the Bambu x1c and had it to my door in 4 days. I couldn't be happier. One thing people over look with the AMS system is the ability to use support material and print another material. I have had near flawless prints with it and have saved me many hours of detailing prints later. I came from an ender 3 pro and could not recommend a Bambu x1c anymore. Keep it up enjoy it. Wish my GF would get into this hobby as well!
Looking into a bambu myself but wish I could see and try one before dropping that much coin. Where are you guys at? I'm near Fond Du Lac.
I have owned a 3D printer since 2011 and used the machines at work since 1994 and this is the greatest thing I have seen in hobbyist 3D printing period.
TIP- Leave the door open when printing PLA
Oh wow that’s awesome and good to
Hear. To reduce the heat in the enclosure? And thanks for the tip!
This was a nice video to come across. I have a X1C and been using a Wham Bam PEX plate since day 1 along with gluestick to easily remove the object from the PEX plate. It’s been a hassle free experience and I don’t believe I’ve experience a single failure. 500+ hours of print time on mine. Hope you’re still enjoying the printer.
the issues will come later, bambu labs hasnt started charging fee's for everything and corralling users to their stores, it's the chinese version of apple kind of, only no laws in place in their country to stop them from being evil empires, they already have been up to sketchy stuff, they require a profile account and login to use their machine, all your collected data is sent thru china, and then back into your home, this is a terrible idea, for anyone. also they collect data that has no bearing on 3d printing, or anything, things like types of devices that you wander close to or wifi's you walk past, they collect that, they dont need that info, they are literally chinese spys in your home and even if i'm crazy, or dumb , they are still gonna get their cloud hacked every other month, because their security alweays is bad (because most of the hacking is coming from them anyways)so either way, when you use devices and services that force you to login to their cloud or use their cloud, or make a profile whatever, thats always bad but i think it's fine, i think every single person who buys this printer already has an iphone so they are used to that i think, i couldnt ever do it, it doesnt even look like a cool idea, it looks horrible, prints great, until it doesnt and then your boned, cuz good luck fixing on it, eventually i bet they will slow or stop updating older machines to make you fork over for a new one.
For the "scar", in the slicer you can adjust the seam location. Also, silk filament has poor adhesion between layers. So you have to be super careful with them as you saw. Good luck. I love my X1C.
Thanks! I actually found the few seam options shortly after! Thanks for the input appreciate you watching
you have to print it a little bit slower or higher the temperature. then the layers melt a little bit better together
There's a Silk profile in the BL Slicer ;)
Those who started 3D printing years ago with an Ender 3 know how to fix all these super simple issues! Great printer, I'll have to get one some day.
I’m definitely a little bummed I didn’t start earlier!
@@TwoMooseDesign Enjoy your printer, you have no idea how good you have it! While learning from earlier buggy printers was very useful, I could have done away with some of it.
The white filament that comes with the machine is support PLA. I’ve had mine for about 4 months and I love it, you won’t regret it!
Lol, just got to the part where you realize that it is support PLA😂
@@bronzekid1 hahah I figured it out the hard way 😆 I haven’t actually used it for the intended purpose yet 🤔
I did it too..... 😁 👍
Yeah, the support material requires different settings, so a bency that was sliced for PLA isn't going to print correctly. You could print a benchy in support material and have it come out half decent I'd think, but it would be a waste given the relative costs, and I have no idea how durable the material is since it was of course not designed to last.
I was thinking building Voron or Ratrig would be obsolete now days, but this video is a proof that no matter what marketing says, It's still a tinkering hobby not a consumer product. So when you build your own printer, you probably won't be so frustrated as when someone else builds it for you and charges you for it.
I’ve had mine for a few weeks now as well and this is also my first 3d printer. I didn’t get the AMS but I was able to get setup and printing pretty quickly. I’ve only had two failed prints and both were from me not doing the bed prep after many successful prints
That’s awesome! What filament have you been using?
@@TwoMooseDesign so far just Bambu pla but I was going to try some matter hackers PETG next. So my longest print so far was a Darth Vader statue which I printed in 2 pieces with a total time of 7:32. I am blown away how good it came out.
We need more 3D printing content from your channel
Definitely will!
@@TwoMooseDesign great
Wow! Another great video from you two!! Thank you for teaching me!
Bambu didn't do a good job marketing... they did a good job designing a kick ass printer!
My X1 shows up this week, and I'll dive in just like you did. Very excited!
That awesome! Love mine so far
its annoying, but you'll want to leave the door open or the lid off when printing in PLA or PETG. also, if you're using the cool plate, make sure there is a good layer of glue. The glue does help it stick, but its ment to not have it stick to the plate. I love my X1C. took me some trial and error to get the kinks worked out. i thought it was a broken machine, here to find out it was an iD10T error. all me.
Great buy, you'll love it!
welcome to the 3D printing world! I just got my first CNC for wood working.
Have fun! y'all are great!
Thanks for the tips!
give more time before you try and remove items (cool down) and you can create a larger area around the actual final object. That helps with bases falling apart when you pull them apart.
What do you mean by "Create a larger area around the final object". A raft or brim?
Greetings from Madison! Just found your page and thank you for the 3D printer reviews. Been looking for a box type printer and you covered all the ones I've been looking at!
Thanks for watching we appreciate it!
I love so much this video! I think when i got my X1 im going to be like you! This is the best video/review about the x1
Thanks! Appreciate it
Congrats on the first printer! You picked a great one. Also love seeing some shapr3d models & prints🤘
Suuuuper excited! I used sketch up for furniture design, it became so limited. I finally jumped to shapr3d and it’s sooo much better for more detailed modeling. I just found your channel last night and watched a few videos! Great stuff, definitely subbed. Thanks for stopping by 👊🏼
The best unbiased review yet!
😆😆 buy it, or don’t 🤷🏼♂️ I don’t care haha
I already have Prusa MK3 and thought about getting the MK4, but after getting X1Combo last Thursday, I'm glad I did! When you add the cost of Prusa enclosure, MMU3, and shipping, Bambu is actually cheaper. Besides, AMS hasn't had a single issue yet, unlike MMU2S on Prusa which almost always need some correcting when printing! Oh, and don't forget, Bambu can print up to 16 colors!
So what you’re telling me is….I shouldn’t buy and MK4 for science? 😆 once I get my space set up in for sure buying another one.
@@TwoMooseDesign Prusa is definitely a quality brand. Is it worth getting now when there's Bambu and Creality K1? Not sure🤔 If one has the funds (in this crazy economy) to play around and buy printers for science, I'd say go for it!😉
great vid! still trying to decide between the carbon and the ps1. love the wedding band btw, it's what my wife and I use since we work with our hands a lot.....super comfy!
Thanks! The p1s is plenty! The extra bells and whistles of the X1C is nice but not needed. If you can swing it great if not i wouldn’t stress it. P1S with an AMS is the best bang for you buck right now in my opinion
Great video! you had me screaming at the screen when you called it a carve lmao
Lmao 90% of the time 🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️🤦🏼♂️
This was amazing to watch . 😎😎
Bought this printer after waiting for my prusa mk4 for over 2 months to deliver. (It's still not here). I'm pretty sure this things going to put the mk4 to shame. This is just an amazing printer and a huge upgrade coming from an ender3.
Mines been great so far! I Just got a few others to compare it to
Started with an Ender 6, then got an Elegoo SLA printer, then got a Prusa MK3S+, and then got my X1 Carbon.
The X1 Carbon is by FAR the best printer I've had.
No issues with it and it puts my Prusa and Ender to shame.
I've been modeling and printing for a few years as well.
Oh nice! I was actually eyeing up one of those large ended or elegoo printers 🤔 like the XL models
@@TwoMooseDesign I really like my Elegoo Resin printer.
Super clean prints and pretty easy to post process with the cleaning and curing station from Elegoo as well.
@@spydergs07 ohhh I want a resin printer! I need to master this first, those look more tricky lol
Isn't resin printers superior? Much more better details.
@@Vindold They have their pros but also have a lot of cons.
Resin does come out with a lot of detail.
But requires a lot of post processing.
I like my resin printer, but I'm very selective over what I resin print due to the time and post processing.
That benchy looked Identical to what mine could print out of the box, glad to know support PLA is differnet than normal PLA
I’ve never seen the bottom layer rip off of anything before. I would say it’s probably because you should’ve just let it cool on the countertop or a piece of marble first, instead of trying to rip it right off the hot bed while everything still warm.
it was printed with support pla. its designed for supports and is super fragile
Thanks for your response!
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it
Fun video.
Good intro to 3D printers. It’s definitely not as easy as the manufacturers want you to believe.
One note that makes Prusa better than almost all the rest. The support they offer is the best in the industry.
Trade off is sometimes speed.
We use fans to cool the plates for 10-15 minutes before removal of items(usually. lol). You’ll get a feel for it.
Try not to bend the plates too much. The item should just come off the plate easily with no effort.
Also. Only use glue if you are getting peeling off the heat bed. Very rarely.
Watching the video I almost said it looks like a support PLA. Much more costly. So use it wisely. ;-)
Lastly. For your parts for the shelves. Use PETG instead of PLA. Much stronger and harder filament. PLA is good for modeling. Generally if you are going to paint it.
Slow and steady wins the race in 3D printing. Consistency is the key.
I tried not to Mansplain. Good video..
Seeing this I am real happy with my MK4.
nice!
Also, ESUN pla is always a good bet and you can get it prime next day for most colors
I’ll definitely try it 👊🏼
I'd say that it's your first printer makes it all the more important. It's really easy to assume that everyone has the same knowledge base even if you are trying specifically to avoid that bias it really can be difficult to judge your target markets knowledge base. Honestly I really enjoyed the pov of a newcomer to 3DP but not a novice with tools.
It’s definitely tough, I’m very good with technology and know a bunch of design and 𝙲𝙽𝙲 softwares. I definitely have an edge, it would definitely come with more trial an error to someone who knows nothing about machines or computer softwares.
Is it just me or did this guy insult you?
@@TwoMooseDesign Good with tech seems a bit of an exaggeration, I cite the stripped screw as evidence. Good thing the woman was there to help you assemble it. I'd also advise that you never buy ikea.
Another great video. 😀😀
Luv the tats more than the printer!😍 Reminds me I need to get more or a sleeve!🤔
Definitely need a sleeve!
Thanks for the review !!
Working on another one now! Appreciate you watching
I'm in love with my Bambu X1C with 4 AMS systems, using Esun and Sunlu without too many problems! Best filament would be BambuLab's own filament because of the RFID tag.
4 AMS?! That’s awesome, I agree I’ll
Have to order some more of theirs, takes the thought out of it
@@TwoMooseDesign yeah, I only use the AMS for colour switching because I’m too lazy to change the rolls myself. And they keep the filament dry with the desiccant upgrades.
will the X1C print Carbon fiber Nylon?
@@Lambossin it comes with some I believe. Like a small sample
@@Lambossin yes it can, I print CF nylon on mine pretty frequently.
looks like a ton of fun man! hopefully i get one soon!
Soooo fun! So much stuff to print around the shop and house. Check out printables or thingiverse.com
Sunlu pla+ ist what i use for a while now. No tangles so far. Also you dont need glue on a pei bed. If you remove big prints wait for the bed to cool before you bend it or it May cause the Print to Warp.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely try SUNLU several recommended it
We use a bunch of these for prototyping in our shop!
So awesome 👏🏻 I plan on making a bunch of pocket size woodworkers, really ramp up production
Textured plate or whambam plate would Be a nice upgrade from the cool plate less glue needed too
I’ll give those a google thanks!
The *best* hex key wrenches I know of are Bondhus. They have a ball on the long end, and they wear *very* well - I have never worn one out, or broken one, and they do not strip out screws.
I have had 4 3D printers over the years and mostly use a hobbyist and like to tinker. Now I want one that just works (no tinkering just maintenance); on a budget of course lol. So, I am going to wait and see what other competing products start to appear on the market.
I'm really excited to see how the MK4 performs, Its a little cheaper. I'd assume someone will come out with a more affordable version soon. I believe the p1p isnt too bad
@@TwoMooseDesign Hello week ago i bought a P1P Yeah it do not have enclosure but ots incredible, it is better than MK4 but a lot of cheaper, If you want to print with PLA/PETG/TPU and other materials which do not need enclosure P1P is the way... its cheaper but its printing with the same speed. But with P1P you dont have touchscreen, but i always use bambu app so i dont need it also it do not have lidar but i watched a lot of review and i tried it lot of time myself and the bed leveling is such a good that you dont need a lidar
Same with me - I had 5 hobbyist chinese printers (Enders, Anycubic...) it was fun, but required a lot of work to make it work right.... Then I bought Prusa MK3s and it was WOW - now it works every single time. So now I understand why printing farms use Prusa Printers... they simply always work. Bambu labs is also fine, but their priority is speed but I am more into print quality and affordability.
@@xhobv02 i wanna try a prusa, it’s what most of my printing buddy’s run with bambu labs
@@xhobv02o a prusa mk4 that's 800 kit or 1100 assembled or the prusa xl at 3500 is affordable? u the first ever seen call prusa affordable. reliable great build quality just prints yeah but affordability not so much
The price range and lead time and assembly time for the Prusa XL fully loaded was the deciding factor for me..... Now I need to decide X1c or the P1P fully load with AMS......
The p1p is more than enough. If you have the budget then go with the X1C if not I wouldn’t stress it
Tempting piece of kit! Been with anycubic since i started 3d printing a few years ago but this is looking like a good brand from what i've read and watched so far. Liked and subbed :)
Awesome, thanks :)
Thanks for watching we appreciate it!
The X1-Carbon Combo is my second 3D printer. My first was a AnyCubic hand-me-down from Daniel when he upgraded the PwnCNC printing farm to the Prusa i3 Mk3s. I think the AnyCubic was worn out because I never got it working really. When Daniel purchased all the X1-Carbon Combo's for the PwnCNC mega-garden I got one as well. It's like getting a Thunder Laser for your first laser... it just works. I'm already printing with PA12-CF perfectly.
Ohh that’s good to hear! I’m excited, haven’t played with anything outside of pla or pla+ yet
What are your settings at for pa12? Are you just using factory settings?
hatchbox is a really good brands keep using it if you want
You for sure bought the best machine.
How long have you had one? I love it so far!
@@TwoMooseDesign I've got a pleb ender 3 pro, but A friend has the x1 and its so much freaking nicer.
@@whitexeno Oh nice! I'm totally hooked. I'm sure ill end up with another one soon hahaha
This might be my 2nd printer.. i have Snapmaaker J1 right now im learning on.
I love it, I have 3 more and it’s still my favorite machine
12:31, you can change seam settings.. scar begins only if there is nowhere to hide the seams.. maybe change parameter to random. Bambu Studio, click preview and watch all the seams and etc.. if you're happy with it.. hit print button.
My 2 cents~
Oh, others already mentioned that.. I'm late in bandwagon. :D
Fun episode, keep it coming! 😎👍
Thanks for the tip!
Getting mine next month. Looks too fun
Did you actually order one though? 😂
@@TwoMooseDesign no I'll order after the CNC lands.
@@CoffeyCustomBuilds exactly I know you 😆 I’ll remind you 2 weeks after it lands
Sure, 3D printing is not idiot proof yet.
But.. compare to Aneth A8 kit that required perpetual DIY upgrade before it bless you with 1 great print out of 3 failed... that Bambu is the king so far (and for a reasonable price in his category).
I have several more printers at this point and it still my favorite. My next video will be comparing it to the K1 Max
@@TwoMooseDesign Never heard of K1 Max. I'm curious!
I have 2 cheap printer and I can't justify buying another one. And I suppose I cannot have a lot for them if I sale them.
Having 2 is very nice: one can fix the other if broken. But if I have a nicer one that is never broken... I'll probably wait anyway.
@@alexandrevaliquette3883 absolutely if that works no problem there!
Lidar only detects issues with first layer adhesion. The 'AI' feature is there to detect spaghetti prints and not all types of failures. I would say it's more of a gimmick than an actual feature. You could also set up your own 'AI' print failure detector; there are a few open-source software options out there!
Use a PEI-textured plate; it doesn't need any glue.
Awesome review, I still think either buy this x1 carbon or the voron 2.4 since the technical guys make me confuse and also newbie and don’t understand well regarding 3d printing 😅
I’m very interested to see how you use it to make things for your woodworking shop. I’ve considered one for making attachments for my cnc, dust collection, etc.
Ohhhh I’m so excited and give so many ideas, especially for dust collection and such
Brand wise, I've always used Polymaker filaments. Filaments are a heavily unregulated industry in terms of safety so I wanted to talk to one of their materials engineers (coming from a materials background myself) and someone surprisingly contacted me back and we had a good discussion on the safety aspects of their materials and how to deal with PLA's, PLA+, etc.. (because who knows what the heck the additives in the plus is). Anyway, it basically boiled down to him saying something like "I personally wouldn't print even PLA in the bedroom"
Anyway, they also plant a tree for every spool you buy (in theory).
Great information! Yeah I have my machines in the shop which is separate from my house. I’ve also heard that the pla + is a toss up brand to brand
thats crazy it doesnt have the waste early 3d printers had with the scaffolding it had to print
As a tip, dust/wood dust is the enemy of the printer.
Dust on the print surface leads to sticking problems.
It will live in my house! I just have it out in my shop temporarily. My basement isn’t as film friendly haha
@@TwoMooseDesign Ok then you will have a lot of fun with the printer for a long time. I wish all time good print👍🏼
@@SshanIcsS thanks! Appreciate it
I actually liked the first benchy. It looks like it was in a pirate battle
Haha same I still have it
It's probably been said, but if not... The LIDAR's not for detecting print faillures beyond the first layer. It's there for first layer inspection. The camera's supposed to catch the fails, which... It might do? Maybe?
I've found that it's far from reliable atm.
Ahhhh gotcha, yeah I have no idea lol mine has been spotty too 🤷🏼♂️
Its too bad, with that big spool holder they don't have two hot-ends where you can have one nozzle print support material and the other prints the model. Then you can do soluble supports.
IKEA uses large 3D printers to manufacture furniture. I was also impressed to see an auto maker using a humongous 3dP to spit out fenders, hoods, doors, etc.
Woah I’d love to see a giant 3D printer in action!
not an open architecture. you don't have full control over your prints, check to see if your designs are staying on the machine while in the slicer. problems with right to repair. did some test runs on this machine with a service and they had a lot of problems with fine detail. wanted it to be the one. will wait and see.
Maybe an unpopular opinion but honestly I believe the P1P is better than the X1C. The only downsides are the camera quality and connectivity but like even the lidar is not a major difference. Seeing as how most people print with PLA, this is literally way more convenient than the X1C. The textured PEI plate is great imo (it has amazing adhesion and I personally like the texture it leaves). For $699, it is unmatchable.
Interesting 🤔 I’d love to try a p1p maybe I’ll buy one of those next. I appreciate the input and yeah the price tags is a hard pill to swallow
Isn't it crazy loud? You think I can run it in my small appartement?
@@xIsouLcruSHca hey! I do bit think it’s overly loud. I’ve been told it’s louder than other brands. I’m not the best person to ask as I have a shop full of loud tools. It’s far quieter than my CNCs or lasers 🤷🏼♂️
@@TwoMooseDesign Thanks for the response! Does it have like a stealth/silent mode? Is the loudest part the extruder movement or coolingfan?
I'm sure it'd be too loud next to my bed haha
I have a P1S and an X1C, the X1C is hands down better.
I have 7 printers when I got the Bambu all7 of my other printers are now collecting dust..
Dang! I got a few more since making this and it’s still my favorite
I've got the mini and it is really fun! I am interested in getting an upgrade so I watched your video. I have 2 Prusas and get tired of switching out the filament on them when it beeps. There is a camera so you can watch your mini while you play video games or whatever you need to do. What is the carbon filament for? That is one thing that I am not sure I will need to print with carbon.
The AMS is great! Makes swapping way easier. Carbon filament isn’t needed, it’s just strong but for 98% of things PLA, ABS, and Pteg are just fine.
I recommend SUNLU filament for the ams
Thanks! I saw that brand I’ll order a roll
@@TwoMooseDesign Also the AMS can't handle all types. For example no TPU.
I've had about 10 different printers so far (last one was Prusa MK3S/MMU2S) and the X1C/AMS is by far the easiest and most consistent printer I've used. I really liked my Prusa, but this is much better. I assume the MK4 will be much better as well, but at this point I have no reason to try it. I do have a multi-head Prusa XL on preorder and I expect that to be a great printer (much more expensive, so it better be! 😀) My guess is I will keep both the Bambu and Prusa and just use whichever one is best for the specific print job.
Don’t blame you, I see a few other printers magically showing up soon 😆
Information
Price alone never describes the value of something.
You can buy some very old machine and know it has worked 20 years and is solid or buy a new product that has been made to last wich dies on you after 2 weeks.😅
@@fearlyenragethat’s a myth. Old machines are usually gotten rid of because they don’t work properly any more.
@@melgross my expiriance has not to be yours. And those machines i have work all fine.
So when you have nothinh constructive to bring to the conversation... Have a nice qiet day.
@@fearlyenrage well, I hope you continue to have good luck with your machines.
Great review. Probably worth noting that it's also not a good idea to mix material types & brands in the same print. Especially relevant if doing multi colour printing. Bambu uses a slightly different formula of PLA that can be printed quicker. So something to watch out for when also doing speed prints with other filament brands. Lastly, always worth refreshing the glue stick after each print especially for the area that was just printed on. This also helps to reduce objects sticking... :)
I've heard that Bambu Labs' filament is just Sunlu PLA+.
Some people on Reddit said that they purchased Sunlu Filament, and it came in a box with the Bambu Labs sticker.
Also, I think the VoidStar Labs guy was saying that it's Sunlu Filament, as well.
Hahaha.
It’s like the products on Amazon.
Everyone is selling the same thing made in the same factory in China by sweatshop kids.
Different label on the box. Same product. Prices all over the board.
Very nice video! I'm still using my first 3D printer, a Prusa MK3S+ without an MMU. With all the problems I've heard about Prusa's MMU and the issues they are having with the MK4, I will keep the x1c or it's successor (when that happens) in mind. Since I've only had mine for a year, I'm going to hold off for a couple more years and see what develops in the industry. I'm only a hobby printer so time is not an issue, quality is though... and I've still not gotten my monies worth out of the Prusa.
MMU3 is fine on the MK3S/+ lines
MMU3 Firmware also fixed all the issues on 2 and 2S. I'm printing a 25hr 5 color Ocarina for my niece. Almost done, 760 tool changes with a single fault that probably my fault for using not dried filament. 760 tool changes is more reliable than AMS, and it has much better waste management, AMS is around 2-3x more wasteful. I'm purging to infill and I can purge to another object if I don't care what color it is (ie a bracket or hanger). A lot has changed in the last year. In real world testing Mk4 is as fast or faster than the X1C with input shaper but IS isn't full developed yet, likely get faster yet.
You can use Magigoo adhesive for easy stick AND release after the print. This layer goes a long way and acts like insurance to your 3DPrint. It's water-based too, so it won't smell and is easy to clean.
Lets Go!!!!
This purchase was inspired by this guy 😆
It looks like you may have forgotten to use a glue stick on the cold plate as recommended by BambuLabs - I think that's why your model's bottom got stuck to your build plate
Your wife looks like the kind of wife that smiles while tolerating something, and the more tolerating going on the wider the smile but the less it reaches her eyes until all sort of smile is suddenly gone and things get heated :)
You are wasting glue. Just put it on the area it will print on. If your print says it has a 2 inch by 3 inch base then only put glue on the 2x3 area. All files can tell you the length width height of a project. But you only need to know what the size is that is actually touching the base. Everything else sits on a layer of filament. Putting glue where nothing is being printed on is just a waste. Great video!!!
Thanks! I rarely use glue anymore, it was my first time using a printer.
The lidar only detects issues with the first layer. Have no idea how good it works but it won't catch a benchy that fails in the middle.
Put the finished print and plate in the freezer after printing so the cold contracts differently and the parts just fall off with a lite touched.
In my experience the amount of gluestick you used could also be a problem. With PLA you often dont even need any. Thats more common for more challanging Filaments like ASA or PETG.
Definitely get a textured PLA buildplate. It makes print removal much easier.
You should not have to use glue stick for pla. Not sure on the print board that comes with that but prints should come off the board way easier
Maybe get a metal scraper for lifting parts, bending the magnetic sheet like that will put too much stress into the print and delaminate the layers. Try letting it cool before you remove it from the pad if you don't already.
Personally I use a wet wipe to clean the pad before printing, because oils from fingers, and a very sharp slash cut tungsten steel 3mm rod for removal. I also watch the first 3 layers print and then check every 15-30 mins.
Welcome to 3D printing, and shouting "WHY?" :)
you made the right decision. Buy once and cry once
🙌🏼🙌🏼 all the calibration on the cheaper machines scared me lol
As someone who has multiple printers including this one and a couple Prusa's they both have their benefits and disadvantages. Currently awaiting my MK4.
I think i'm hooked lol now im sure in a few months ill collect a couple more. Waiting to see how people take to the MK4 maybe ill buy one of those too.
@@TwoMooseDesign just like with all tools, you can never seem to have too many!! Enjoy expanding your creativity platform.
@@AlexZaboroski Exactly its a pretty dangerous hobby for your bank account ahaha
@@TwoMooseDesign Yes. I have now 7 (or how many) 3D printers... and its just one of my hobbies :DD But I love it... and our kids too :)
That last one looked like a problem with layer adhesion and too much plate adhesion. If it was my Ender 3, I would increase z-offset, and maybe do a temp tower to compare temps with that particular filament.
She's so pretty. Great video btw: Thumbs up for me.
Interesting...my creality ender-3 is much slower but printed that benchy perfect out of the shoot
thanks for the video, I'm thinking about buying one myself. cnckitchen guy said that when the bambu x1c prints fast the parts come out weaker which could have contributed to the bottom coming off your knife holder. How's the noise when you run it fast vs slow?
Hey! My print stuck too well and I didn’t let it cool so it broke at the seam. What he says is probably true 🤷🏼♂️ I have no idea but my prints are plenty strong and you can experiment with different materials as well for more durability. It’s not overtly loud. I always run it on normal mode, it’s already way faster than older printers. I keep it in my shop so I don’t notice the noise 🤷🏼♂️
My first printer was the Ender 3 S1 Pro and believe me - you'd have a LOT more trial and error on those lol ...
Inland PLA+ is an awesome pla filament, it’s the one I use the most and is very consistent.
The printer seems awesome out of box and has a lot of cool features, but at its price point it’s tough to swallow for me. it also doesn’t really seem to allow for easy tinkering, and the extreme plug and play nature/proprietary software doesn’t really force you to learn the basics of 3d printing, only what their software can do. overall definitely a cool printer and there’s definitely worse options imo. if it’s me, i’m going for a prusa, though
I agree the price is steep. I bought it based on hype haha. I have a roll of HATCHBOX pla+ and printed great! If I can sell some items or files I’ll definitely buy the new prusa to see how they run. The p1p isn’t priced too bad
@@TwoMooseDesign yeah the p1p is much more affordable. and i mean $1500 isn’t the most insane purchase for something like this machine. if i could afford it id have bought it lol. i would just try to watch a bunch of videos about basic problems and basics of 3d printing anyway (even though you’re likely to always have pretty good prints), as if you want to get a print farm-like setup going on eventually, you’ll probably want to know how to troubleshoot quickly on more machines than 1. not that you wouldn’t know this, just my 2 cents.
It is definitely overkill for just PLA. I wanted to get into functional printing with PA/PC/etc and the X1C is actually cheaper than an MK3S with an enclosure (and no MMS), so that is part of why I went with it as my own first printer.
If you're just printing PLA then the P1P does get you everything you need really, at least for single color printing.
Always good videos and reviews. I have been wanting one of these, just cautious and curious how they stand up over time. For creating items with better quality always comes at a price.
Totally agree you get what you pay for most of the time, I have a few friends that have been running them hard for months but its hard to say since its pretty new. I've only owned it for a few weeks so i have zero input lol. Thanks for watching we appreciate it!
@@TwoMooseDesign The problem will come when you run out of warranty, All coreXY machines can be pushed this hard and achieve the same quality but it comes down to why? Maintenance is a thing and parts especially carbon rods and bushes dont last forever, and pushing things to the extreme just means failures sooner. Add to that that most of the printer is glued together and not user serviceable. I think in the coming year there will be more and more complaints.
@@thegarageluthier "Most of the printer is glued together" - Other than the frame, which is welded, the rest is Screwed together.
0:05 - I'm a bit dubious about "Best 3D Printer" videos that start with, "This is my first 3D printer. I have zero experience."
Best is very subjective. Privacy and security are very important to me, so the Bambu Lab policy of All Your Data Are Belong To Us was a non-starter for me. There is no legitimate reason to send my print job from my computer across the internet to the Bambu server and then back across the internet to the 3D printer that's two feet from my computer.
It also didn't help a few weeks ago when the Bambu Lab server crashed, users were unable to print their jobs and after several attempts they gave up and jumped through the hoops to print locally (Bambu deliberately makes that difficult so users will use their server), and then the Bambu server was fixed and tried to print the backlog of jobs with Bambu printers in the US starting in the middle of the night and in many cases crashing into the manually printed parts that were still on the print beds.
Then don’t buy one it’s that simple 🤷🏼♂️ the title is a question not a statement. The machine has been great to me and I have several other printers at this point.
From this video, I would say one "flaw" with this machine is the icon color tends to imply you should be using the white pla like you did. Not knowing the difference between rolls, the icon should be another clue to help you figure it out.
Lidar works better without light. It might help with the inside light off but they don't tell you that :P
ahh interesting. I'll play around with it
Bambu has a very concerning privacy policy. Basically, any data you send to the printer Bambu reserves the right to collect and share with their third parties. That includes g code, CAD models, and webcam footage. That makes any Bambu printer a non-starter for commercial product development. I was considering buying one of these P1S or X1Cs to use at home to print prototypes for my work.
You can decline to share data during setup.
use the scrapper that come with the box. oh i mean the knife and you need to print the scrapper......
btw your filament is silk. it brittle because it properties is like that. thats why i like to see and hate to use.
Thanks for the tips!
Thank you.
bambu filament is by far easiest to run of course as it knows what color and settings for the filament automatically
That is super nice, I was just lazy because it wasn’t in Amazon haha. I want to order a few spare parts just in case so I’ll probably order a few more rolls
if doing alot of multiple color prints bambu filament is way go then lol pain to set the color for the filament in every slot every time u change colors or filament type for temperature
@@jamesharris9894 true I can see that being annoying lol I’ll have to try a multiple color print! Haven’t played with one yet
@@TwoMooseDesignand the bed stick way to well make sure u have it completely covered in glue to get the prints off easier
@@jamesharris9894 definitely have been! I’m afraid to not haha I see a lot of people using purple glue sticks I’ll have to order some of those
I recently read on a Facebook group that hairspray works better than glue stick.
Yeah you should try a budget machine and then critique the X1C 👀
I have a few more machines ill be trying soon