I build all my cabinet carcasses separately from the toe-kicks. To me, it makes the carcass build simpler and the install more versatile, and it's really not that much extra work. This method gives so many more options for height, toe-kick depth, wall offsets (for wall footers, dust collection, etc.), and allows you to run any wiring or tubing through the toe kick prior to cabinet install. Also, leveling the toe kicks is much easier than leveling a bank of large heavy cabinets, especially if you have to shim the back sides. Great build, looking forward to the finished product!
No Festool or Baltic Birch? You are a savage! I'm happy to see a more realistic approach.
Thanks brother! I have to keep it real.
I build all my cabinet carcasses separately from the toe-kicks. To me, it makes the carcass build simpler and the install more versatile, and it's really not that much extra work. This method gives so many more options for height, toe-kick depth, wall offsets (for wall footers, dust collection, etc.), and allows you to run any wiring or tubing through the toe kick prior to cabinet install. Also, leveling the toe kicks is much easier than leveling a bank of large heavy cabinets, especially if you have to shim the back sides. Great build, looking forward to the finished product!
Yes, agreed! I really enjoy the ease of leveling just the toe kick instead of the whole cabinet. Thanks for watching!