Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve: Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version th-cam.com/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Front - Metric Version th-cam.com/video/2ubak0HM2HY/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version th-cam.com/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/w-d-xo.html Bodice Block Back - Metric Version th-cam.com/video/aW4mRJNRke4/w-d-xo.html
Timestamps for drafting the bodice back below. And thank you so much for the amazing content 3:56 Start drafting the block 4:14 Full length back 4:40 Upper bust arc back 5:25 Center back 6:00 Across shoulder back 6:39 Back neck 7:19 Shoulder slope back 7:54 Neck Curve 10:50 Shoulder Length 11:37 Waist 12:26 Side seam 13:14 Upper bust 13:36 Bust depth at SS 14:03 Across back 15:37 Waist dart 17:01 Waist Curve 18:22 Shoulder dart 20:37 Adding ease for sleeveless block
Thank you for these tutorials. I’ve drafted using the Helen Joseph Armstrong book but could never quite get the fit right. So when moving into drafting shirts they just looked so bad. I’ve just drafted the sleeveless bodice block and it fits! No further adjustments than needed. Thanks so much. I’m now in a much better place to actually make clothes that fit me. Now to start on the trouser block.
Maria, you are simply amazing. Thank you for sharing your work and for putting so much attention into your videos and instructions. I have an 8" difference between my high bust and bust line, narrow back, and hourglass shape...and I am petite to boot! From watching all of your videos, I now know why fit has been so incredibly difficult for me. 🤦♀ Your method is the absolute closest I have gotten to a good fitting bodice, and on the first try even! I think I tripped up somewhere with the waist darts, but even then I have halfway decent bodice block now. I purchased your PDFs so I can mark the steps off as a go and make sure I get it right on my second try. This is so exciting. 🙂
Hello CT, thank you I'm very pleased you got a result. I can't tell you how pleased I was when I finally cracked it. I never thought I'd have a well-fitting armhole and a well fitting bodice. I still get pleasure out of noticing how well my dresses fit, and I never tire of the compliments that I get when I wear them. People really notice the good fit.
Hello, I had a similar problem to a fellow commenter where my K point is longer than the A - D line, but it is only be 1/8th inch. Upper Bust arc back = 16 Waist = 26.5 Waist/4 + 1.5in = 8 1/8in Is it okay to make my K point 1/8th farther out? What do you mean by “perpendicular side seam?” PS- Thank you for everything you’ve taught me❤
My shoulder length + 1/2" (G-i) line doesn't quite reach point H. It's about 3/16" short. I've double and triple checked my measurements and calculations. I have a very muscular back and I wonder whether it would be reasonable to increase the size of the dart?
Hello Lynn, sorry for the late response. Although some people do require a larger shoulder dart (like me), that's not likely to be the reason for your current issue. I know you've said you've checked the measurements and calculations, but it is likely to be measurement related. (Back neck width B to G? Full Length Back? Across Shoulder? Shoulder Slope?). You only need to be a small amount out in a couple of places and it will affect the outcome. HOWEVER... If it's out such a small amount, then just draw the shoulder line to meet point H and do the normal size dart. In effect what that means is that your Shoulder Length will be 3/16 inch longer ... It's at least a starting point for your toile.
My point (k) is like 1.05 inch from (D) and I've been trying to figure out how to make it look this the one in the instructions. What can I do because my upper bust is 34 which makes my upper bust arc 17 which is 8.5 for half block so when doing the waist measurements it goes past the D line. How can I fix this issue. Also the shoulder line also go out of the (C-D).
@@NailsByWonnie Firstly let me check: (1) Your waist is 33.25 inches? (Only slightly less than your Upper Bust of 34 inches) (2) When you say your Upper Bust is 34, which makes your Upper Bust Arc 17...(etc)..... Have you actually measured your Arcs or have you just divided your Upper Bust by 4? If you have just divided your UB by 4 you may not get the best fit. For example; your Upper Bust Arc Back may be larger than your Upper Bust Arc Front, and this would make some (if only a little) difference here with the waist. For Didi her Upper Bust Arc Back is bigger than the Upper Bust Arc Front. (If I just divided her UB and her Bust by 4 instead of using the actual Body Arcs, she doesn't get the correct Patternmaking Bust Cup. This is explained in my Bodice Block Essential videos). The shoulder line going past the C-D line suggests to me some kind of mistake; either in taking measurements or drafting.
@@Dresspatternmaking my upper bust back arc is 16.5... My upper bust c' is 34 inch. My shoulder length is 16 ÷2 makes it 8 inch half block. So when I draft B to F it is very close to (c) So when I make the marks for the waist dart it goes over that C to D line. So I'm not sure what is happening
@@NailsByWonnie Firstly - I missed addressing a key point from your original comment when you were querying your placement of Point K. You say you would are " trying to figure out how to make it look this the one in the instructions." I am sure I have stressed in my instructions that your block may look quite different to Didi's. Your block will reflect your figure. I show how different mine is to Didi's to make the point. Regarding Point K, you said your Point K was 1.05 inches from Point D. If your waist is 29 inches, this cannot be the case. You making some calculation and/or drafting errors (as well as mistakenly trying to make your block look like Didi's). Your waist is 29 inches 29 inches divided by 4 = 7.25 inches. Plus 1.25 inch dart . Total of 8.5 inches. You have said (A to D) is 8.5 inches. K will end up on top of D. (Rather than 1.05 inches away as you said?) There is no problem with having a perpendicular side seam. However, you could try to reduce the dart to 3/4 inch, then angle the side seam in 1/2 inch if you really wanted your side seam angled inwards. I would suggest going with the perpendicular side seam and see how it works in the toile. Again, if you look at my block example, mine is less angled than Didi's - almost perpendicular. Regarding your other issue: You say "My shoulder length is 16 ÷ 2 = 8 inches." I think you mean your Across Shoulder? (The shoulder length is not divided and would not be that long). When you say that Point F is very close to point C, my assumption is that you are made an error in one or more of the following: (1) Incorrect Across Shoulder measurement (2) Incorrect Back Neck measurement (3) Incorrect Shoulder Slope measurement (3) And/or drafting errors in one or more of the above. Finally, if you want a block that fits well, you should be using the Upper Bust and Bust Arcs, not the Full Measurements divided by 4. I have covered that in the Measurements video..
Here are links to the latest Bodice Block Instructions for use with this Sleeve:
Bodice Block Front - Imperial Version
th-cam.com/video/oRHWXw6qMr4/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Front - Metric Version
th-cam.com/video/2ubak0HM2HY/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Back - Imperial Version
th-cam.com/video/EW8qaMgnV-o/w-d-xo.html
Bodice Block Back - Metric Version
th-cam.com/video/aW4mRJNRke4/w-d-xo.html
Timestamps for drafting the bodice back below. And thank you so much for the amazing content
3:56 Start drafting the block
4:14 Full length back
4:40 Upper bust arc back
5:25 Center back
6:00 Across shoulder back
6:39 Back neck
7:19 Shoulder slope back
7:54 Neck Curve
10:50 Shoulder Length
11:37 Waist
12:26 Side seam
13:14 Upper bust
13:36 Bust depth at SS
14:03 Across back
15:37 Waist dart
17:01 Waist Curve
18:22 Shoulder dart
20:37 Adding ease for sleeveless block
Thank you for these tutorials.
I’ve drafted using the Helen Joseph Armstrong book but could never quite get the fit right. So when moving into drafting shirts they just looked so bad.
I’ve just drafted the sleeveless bodice block and it fits! No further adjustments than needed. Thanks so much. I’m now in a much better place to actually make clothes that fit me.
Now to start on the trouser block.
Your information is so incredibly clear, accurate and easy to follow. Thank you SO much for posting these videos!!!
Maria, you are simply amazing. Thank you for sharing your work and for putting so much attention into your videos and instructions. I have an 8" difference between my high bust and bust line, narrow back, and hourglass shape...and I am petite to boot! From watching all of your videos, I now know why fit has been so incredibly difficult for me. 🤦♀ Your method is the absolute closest I have gotten to a good fitting bodice, and on the first try even! I think I tripped up somewhere with the waist darts, but even then I have halfway decent bodice block now. I purchased your PDFs so I can mark the steps off as a go and make sure I get it right on my second try. This is so exciting. 🙂
Hello CT, thank you I'm very pleased you got a result. I can't tell you how pleased I was when I finally cracked it. I never thought I'd have a well-fitting armhole and a well fitting bodice. I still get pleasure out of noticing how well my dresses fit, and I never tire of the compliments that I get when I wear them. People really notice the good fit.
Hello, I had a similar problem to a fellow commenter where my K point is longer than the A - D line, but it is only be 1/8th inch.
Upper Bust arc back = 16
Waist = 26.5
Waist/4 + 1.5in = 8 1/8in
Is it okay to make my K point 1/8th farther out?
What do you mean by “perpendicular side seam?”
PS- Thank you for everything you’ve taught me❤
My shoulder length + 1/2" (G-i) line doesn't quite reach point H. It's about 3/16" short. I've double and triple checked my measurements and calculations. I have a very muscular back and I wonder whether it would be reasonable to increase the size of the dart?
Hello Lynn, sorry for the late response.
Although some people do require a larger shoulder dart (like me), that's not likely to be the reason for your current issue. I know you've said you've checked the measurements and calculations, but it is likely to be measurement related. (Back neck width B to G? Full Length Back? Across Shoulder? Shoulder Slope?). You only need to be a small amount out in a couple of places and it will affect the outcome.
HOWEVER... If it's out such a small amount, then just draw the shoulder line to meet point H and do the normal size dart. In effect what that means is that your Shoulder Length will be 3/16 inch longer ... It's at least a starting point for your toile.
@@Dresspatternmaking Thank you! Retaking measurements (again) today.
Thank you
Welcome!
Yay 💜
♥️♥️♥️
Hello and thank you.
my point K is beyond AD
Hello Miltoni. You can reduce the size of your waist dart. How far past point D?
My point (k) is like 1.05 inch from (D) and I've been trying to figure out how to make it look this the one in the instructions. What can I do because my upper bust is 34 which makes my upper bust arc 17 which is 8.5 for half block so when doing the waist measurements it goes past the D line. How can I fix this issue.
Also the shoulder line also go out of the (C-D).
@@NailsByWonnie
Firstly let me check:
(1) Your waist is 33.25 inches? (Only slightly less than your Upper Bust of 34 inches)
(2) When you say your Upper Bust is 34, which makes your Upper Bust Arc 17...(etc)..... Have you actually measured your Arcs or have you just divided your Upper Bust by 4?
If you have just divided your UB by 4 you may not get the best fit. For example; your Upper Bust Arc Back may be larger than your Upper Bust Arc Front, and this would make some (if only a little) difference here with the waist. For Didi her Upper Bust Arc Back is bigger than the Upper Bust Arc Front. (If I just divided her UB and her Bust by 4 instead of using the actual Body Arcs, she doesn't get the correct Patternmaking Bust Cup. This is explained in my Bodice Block Essential videos).
The shoulder line going past the C-D line suggests to me some kind of mistake; either in taking measurements or drafting.
@@Dresspatternmaking my upper bust back arc is 16.5... My upper bust c' is 34 inch.
My shoulder length is 16 ÷2 makes it 8 inch half block.
So when I draft B to F it is very close to (c)
So when I make the marks for the waist dart it goes over that C to D line.
So I'm not sure what is happening
@@NailsByWonnie
Firstly - I missed addressing a key point from your original comment when you were querying your placement of Point K. You say you would are " trying to figure out how to make it look this the one in the instructions." I am sure I have stressed in my instructions that your block may look quite different to Didi's. Your block will reflect your figure. I show how different mine is to Didi's to make the point.
Regarding Point K, you said your Point K was 1.05 inches from Point D. If your waist is 29 inches, this cannot be the case.
You making some calculation and/or drafting errors (as well as mistakenly trying to make your block look like Didi's).
Your waist is 29 inches
29 inches divided by 4 = 7.25 inches.
Plus 1.25 inch dart .
Total of 8.5 inches.
You have said (A to D) is 8.5 inches.
K will end up on top of D. (Rather than 1.05 inches away as you said?)
There is no problem with having a perpendicular side seam. However, you could try to reduce the dart to 3/4 inch, then angle the side seam in 1/2 inch if you really wanted your side seam angled inwards. I would suggest going with the perpendicular side seam and see how it works in the toile.
Again, if you look at my block example, mine is less angled than Didi's - almost perpendicular.
Regarding your other issue:
You say "My shoulder length is 16 ÷ 2 = 8 inches." I think you mean your Across Shoulder? (The shoulder length is not divided and would not be that long).
When you say that Point F is very close to point C, my assumption is that you are made an error in one or more of the following:
(1) Incorrect Across Shoulder measurement
(2) Incorrect Back Neck measurement
(3) Incorrect Shoulder Slope measurement
(3) And/or drafting errors in one or more of the above.
Finally, if you want a block that fits well, you should be using the Upper Bust and Bust Arcs, not the Full Measurements divided by 4. I have covered that in the Measurements video..