I have a New Haven. Its' eskape wheels teeth face toward the rotation. I am haveing trouble with it. The teeth are worn. If I purchase a new escapement wheel with same number of teeth but 1mm larger diamitor will it work? Or do I need to puchase a new escapement wheel and a matching rocker? Any suggestions?
Hi John- You mention the EW teeth are raked towards the direction of rotation and that generally indicates a deadbeat or half-deadbeat escapement rather than a recoil. However, to answer your question... No, changing out the escape wheel won't fix your escapement. The pallets need to have any wear ruts polished out and then the escapement would need to be adjusted for proper drops and locks. While the escape wheel teeth may show some slight wear, this sort of wear is secondary to the wear on the pallets and isn't likely to stop the clock. A damaged/worn escape wheel can be restored much easier than replacing it. Hope that helps!
Hi Mark- Thanks for your comments and suggestions! Your concerns are addressed in detail in the ClockClass DVD “The Recoil Escapement”. This You Tube video is simply a sample of the class and isn’t intended to cover the topic in any depth.
Thank you for this. I would suggest that in the real escapement shown at the very end of the video that the pivot holes in the saddle are rather worn, making the verge jump around at each tick. This doesn't always make a lot of difference, but in a detailed video it looks a bit disturbing. Mark Kinsler
As a struggling clock repairer, amateur, the hardest thing for me has been adjusting the escapement. I have been told the strip recoil is among the easiest and most forgiving. I know your video is short ,but it really does not explain much and would not encourage me to buy the longer version. Sorry
Hi Alec- Thanks for your comment! Adjusting escapements is indeed difficult and something that requires quite a bit of time to explain. I'm sorry the very short video didn't meet your needs. Since you aren't interested in the ClockClass DVDs, I would encourage you to read up on escapements on the NAWCC Message Board. There is a wealth of information there. And I'm always happy to answer any questions that may arise.
This sounds like a power problem. 100 year old movements will often require restoration in order to solve the power problems due to wear. Adjusting the escapement is one of the final steps in a restoration and isn't something that can really be done until the movement is in good running order. If you don't have the skills or tools necessary to do a complete restoration of the movement, it may be time to take it to a qualified clock shop. Hope that helps!
Yes, the wear ruts in the pallets should be dressed out and then the escapement properly adjusted to compensate for the loss of material. The ClockClass DVD, "The Recoil Escapement", covers this in depth during the 1 hour video. I'm happy to discuss this in depth via e-mail if you have more questions!
@@clockclass5480 I wonder if I could do a job like that. I’m pretty handy and I like fit, but this is my first mechanical clock. What do you charge for a set of your courses?
@@jonahhahr7756 Hi Jonah- The email reply I sent bounced due to your email inbox being full. Here is my reply... Congratulations on your purchase! EN Welch hanging kitchen clocks aren’t all that common. They aren’t worth thousands, certainly, but are worth hundreds. If you have your clock running, there’s really no need to do anything further. Yes, a novice could do a restoration on this escapement but it isn’t necessary until the clock won’t keep running or doesn’t run a full 8 days. Then, the whole movement should be gone through, not just the escapement. Regards, D.
I have a New Haven. Its' eskape wheels teeth face toward the rotation. I am haveing trouble with it. The teeth are worn. If I purchase a new escapement wheel with same number of teeth but 1mm larger diamitor will it work? Or do I need to puchase a new escapement wheel and a matching rocker? Any suggestions?
Hi John- You mention the EW teeth are raked towards the direction of rotation and that generally indicates a deadbeat or half-deadbeat escapement rather than a recoil. However, to answer your question... No, changing out the escape wheel won't fix your escapement. The pallets need to have any wear ruts polished out and then the escapement would need to be adjusted for proper drops and locks. While the escape wheel teeth may show some slight wear, this sort of wear is secondary to the wear on the pallets and isn't likely to stop the clock. A damaged/worn escape wheel can be restored much easier than replacing it.
Hope that helps!
Hi Mark- Thanks for your comments and suggestions! Your concerns are addressed in detail in the ClockClass DVD “The Recoil Escapement”. This You Tube video is simply a sample of the class and isn’t intended to cover the topic in any depth.
Thank you for this. I would suggest that in the real escapement shown at the very end of the video that the pivot holes in the saddle are rather worn, making the verge jump around at each tick. This doesn't always make a lot of difference, but in a detailed video it looks a bit disturbing.
Mark Kinsler
Great observation! Thank you.
As a struggling clock repairer, amateur, the hardest thing for me has been adjusting the escapement. I have been told the strip recoil is among the easiest and most forgiving. I know your video is short ,but it really does not explain much and would not encourage me to buy the longer version. Sorry
Hi Alec- Thanks for your comment! Adjusting escapements is indeed difficult and something that requires quite a bit of time to explain. I'm sorry the very short video didn't meet your needs. Since you aren't interested in the ClockClass DVDs, I would encourage you to read up on escapements on the NAWCC Message Board. There is a wealth of information there. And I'm always happy to answer any questions that may arise.
Really enjoying these classes. Thank you!
I trying get my Ingraham clock to tick every time I start pendulum it won't start and it don't run in last I put pressure on escape wheel
This sounds like a power problem. 100 year old movements will often require restoration in order to solve the power problems due to wear. Adjusting the escapement is one of the final steps in a restoration and isn't something that can really be done until the movement is in good running order. If you don't have the skills or tools necessary to do a complete restoration of the movement, it may be time to take it to a qualified clock shop.
Hope that helps!
How about a worn pallet? Mine has slight grooves on both sides made by the teeth.
Yes, the wear ruts in the pallets should be dressed out and then the escapement properly adjusted to compensate for the loss of material. The ClockClass DVD, "The Recoil Escapement", covers this in depth during the 1 hour video. I'm happy to discuss this in depth via e-mail if you have more questions!
@@clockclass5480 I wonder if I could do a job like that. I’m pretty handy and I like fit, but this is my first mechanical clock. What do you charge for a set of your courses?
How do I get your email?
@@jonahhahr7756 Hi Jonah- I see you found my email but, for others who may be looking... Go to ClockClass.com and click on the "Contact Us" tab.
@@jonahhahr7756 Hi Jonah- The email reply I sent bounced due to your email inbox being full. Here is my reply...
Congratulations on your purchase! EN Welch hanging kitchen clocks aren’t all that common. They aren’t worth thousands, certainly, but are worth hundreds.
If you have your clock running, there’s really no need to do anything further. Yes, a novice could do a restoration on this escapement but it isn’t necessary until the clock won’t keep running or doesn’t run a full 8 days. Then, the whole movement should be gone through, not just the escapement.
Regards,
D.
Excelente...
great
똑딱똑딱
:-) "Tick Tick Tick Tick" We would say "Tick Tock, Tick Tock".
Hackengang! of kukuks uhr