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Hi John- You mention the EW teeth are raked towards the direction of rotation and that generally indicates a deadbeat or half-deadbeat escapement rather than a recoil. However, to answer your question... No, changing out the escape wheel won't fix your escapement. The pallets need to have any wear ruts polished out and then the escapement would need to be adjusted for proper drops and locks. While the escape wheel teeth may show some slight wear, this sort of wear is secondary to the wear on the pallets and isn't likely to stop the clock. A damaged/worn escape wheel can be restored much easier than replacing it. Hope that helps!

Yes, the wear ruts in the pallets should be dressed out and then the escapement properly adjusted to compensate for the loss of material. The ClockClass DVD, "The Recoil Escapement", covers this in depth during the 1 hour video. I'm happy to discuss this in depth via e-mail if you have more questions!

@@clockclass5480 I wonder if I could do a job like that. I’m pretty handy and I like fit, but this is my first mechanical clock. What do you charge for a set of your courses?

How do I get your email?

@@jonahhahr7756 Hi Jonah- I see you found my email but, for others who may be looking... Go to ClockClass.com and click on the "Contact Us" tab.

@@jonahhahr7756 Hi Jonah- The email reply I sent bounced due to your email inbox being full. Here is my reply... Congratulations on your purchase! EN Welch hanging kitchen clocks aren’t all that common. They aren’t worth thousands, certainly, but are worth hundreds. If you have your clock running, there’s really no need to do anything further. Yes, a novice could do a restoration on this escapement but it isn’t necessary until the clock won’t keep running or doesn’t run a full 8 days. Then, the whole movement should be gone through, not just the escapement. Regards, D.

Hi Alec- Thanks for your comment! Adjusting escapements is indeed difficult and something that requires quite a bit of time to explain. I'm sorry the very short video didn't meet your needs. Since you aren't interested in the ClockClass DVDs, I would encourage you to read up on escapements on the NAWCC Message Board. There is a wealth of information there. And I'm always happy to answer any questions that may arise.

Thanks for your feedback! Please let me know how we can make this video more to your liking.

Hi Richard- Telechron rotors will often develop wear problems in the bearing holes of the phenolic plates which causes the gears to either mesh closer together or farther apart. This results in depthing issues when the teeth bottom out (too close together) or butt (too far apart) and the increased friction causes the rotor to fail. Unfortunately, no amount of lubrication will solve this problem. There are no modern replacements for the B-Type rotors as they are no longer being made. You ask about inexpensive methods to help these along a few more years and those rotors that have seized up due to sticky lubricants, rather than due to wear, may be gotten to work with additional lubrication but at a risk of destroying the rotor. For example, the method of heating up the rotor so it will draw oil into the case as it cools risks wear of the phenolic wheel teeth since the oily sludge will act as a grinding paste. The method of drilling a hole in the housing to flush the old lubricant and fill with new risks damage to the delicate movement inside during the drilling process. If we still had a supply of these, and they were easily replaced, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend risky, inexpensive methods to try to get a rotor working again. Hope that helps!

Hi Mike- I keep that particular example intact for training purposes. However, it would be a simple matter to remove the pieces since the mainspring no longer has much energy. It is just a bundle of fragments which can be pushed out so the safety clip can be reused. if the pieces can't be removed by hand, they can be driven out with a punch.

Hi James- The term "granddaughter clock" generally refers to a small hall clock which is spring-driven rather than weight-driven like a grandmother or grandfather clock. If your clock is spring-driven, be sure you are properly winding it. It should be wound fully, until it comes to a hard stop, not just until you think it is tight. I'll be happy to help further, with more information.

It isn't normally necessary to remove an escape wheel from its hub. Remounting it, or mounting a new one, often necessitates making a new hub to ensure the EW runs true. Should it need to be removed, I would carefully machine off the peened areas of the hub which hold the wheel in place and then drive off the wheel.

@@clockclass5480 what if you want to change a sessions recoil to a deadbeat escapement?

@@jordanbusby6231 Well... That's not what the manufacturer had intended and, as a professional clockmaker, not something I'd recommend doing. However, it would be a good learning experience in adjusting an escapement 🙂. The recoil escape wheel can be removed, flipped over, and used as a deadbeat EW (sort of). The EW teeth will be too wide at the base and not have sufficient clearance for a Graham deadbeat anchor but may work for a half-deadbeat strap anchor. The half-deadbeat strap pallets will need to be custom shaped to conform to the proper escapement geometry. If you are wanting a Graham deadbeat escapement, the EW teeth can be filed to shape so they have enough relief. The effort to do this conversion greatly outweighs the benefits of a deadbeat escapement vs a recoil escapement. Good luck with it!

Hi Sputnik- Your stopping issue may not be escapement related. Everything about the movement needs to be considered when troubleshooting power issues. Make sure the movement doesn't have significant wear and is well lubricated. And yes, the escapement does need to be properly adjusted 🙂. But, if your movement is running for several hours before stopping, the problem might not be the escapement.

The Ingraham half-deadbeat has a strap pallet which can be adjusted for entrance drop by slightly bending the strap close to the middle. So, you don’t actually adjust one pallet or the other, you adjust both simultaneously. Hope that helps!

Knocking sounds as you describe are more than likely the pendulum hitting something as it swings. The pendulum tries to reach its normal amplitude but then hits the side of the case, or other obstruction, before it reaches its maximum excursion. This dampens the pendulum action, reducing the swing, and the sound goes back to normal. There are several solutions to this issue... -Make sure the case is level and the clock is in beat. If the clock isn't level, the pendulum will come closer to one side of the case than the other and could strike the side of the case. -If the pendulum hits both sides, the escapement will need adjusting so there is more exit and entrance drop. This will reduce the amount of swing of the pendulum by reducing the lock. -See if the obstruction can be moved. I've seen gong standards improperly positioned and interfering with the swing of the pendulum. Hope that helps!

@@clockclass5480 yea, thats what i thought at first, but if i reduce the swing by hand, it doesn't get any better, so i assumed it was escape mechanism because i cant find where the pendulum is hitting anything.

@@kwacz Ok! This is all part of the troubleshooting process. Look for the easy stuff first 🙂. Since your pendulum isn't hitting anything, it could be your escape wheel has damaged teeth or is out-of-round. This would cause the pallets to lightly catch an escape wheel tooth rather than fully releasing it and cause the knocking sound. This would generally stop the clock. One way to tell if it is the escape wheel is to count the ticks. If you consistently get 7 knocking sounds, for example, followed by 31 normal ticks, it is the EW that's the problem. Here is an article which discusses escape wheel problems... abouttime-clockmaking.com/pdfs/escape_wheel_problems.pdf

Mainspring-driven clocks often have mainsprings in barrels. The outer end of the mainspring catches on a hook inside the barrel and the inner coil of the mainspring catches on a hook on the winding arbor. If one or the other of this hooks becomes damaged, the clock can't be wound because the mainspring won't catch. The ClockClass DVD discusses the repair of both of these hooks.

Thanks for catching that! You are correct, I used a term not found in the parts catalogs and should have called them "clamps" or "sleeves."

The Timetrax 185 works the same as the model 350 for beat amplifier and BPH. However, the Timetrax 350 has additional features like a Holdoff knob. This allows the timer to “listen” at just the right moment for the “tick” and “rock”, eliminating other noises that can cause errors in the readout. Two other features are… 1) pre-set time trains for rate and 2) balance for in or out of beat.

Hi Will- Thanks for your comments! ClockClass does have a 1h 20m DVD dedicated to the restoration of a Telethon B-Type Rotor which covers everything you would expect. There is also a free article which discusses the topic here... abouttime-clockmaking.com/pdfs/in_the_can_telechron_labounty.pdf. Hope that helps!

@@clockclass5480 Thank you.

Hi IFCJ-Supporter- Clock mainsprings should be would fully or the clock won't function properly. If a mainspring is wound fully and doesn't want to unwind, it means it is time to service it. Also, you mention one of your mainsprings seems to unwind during the winding process. The mainspring is probably sticky and causing the mainspring to jump during winding. 30-day mainsprings are extra long and the outer coils, if sticky, will often stick in the unwound position while the inner coils are being wound. When the tension on the inner coils gets strong enough to overcome the stickiness, the outer coils will slip onto the inner coils and the whole mainspring relaxes. This is another indication the movement needs to be serviced. Hope that helps!

@@clockclass5480 thank you very much. You are a really excellent teacher and thank you for your replies. Wish I could do a survey on you. You’re the best Have a great weekend

Hi IFCJ-Supporter- A clock can be level side-to-side and still be out of beat. The beat must be adjusted by either bending the crutch wire or adjusting the friction clutch by pushing the crutch to one side. You say you are only hearing a "tick" and not a "tock" and what you may be hearing is the anchor bottoming out on the escape wheel rather than the anchor catching an escape wheel tooth as the escape wheel rotates. Remove the hands and dial and watch the escapement. If the anchor isn't positioned to allow the escape wheel to rotate, adjust the beat until you get the proper escapement action and an even "tick" "tock". Hope that helps!

Hi At- Many clocks have a bushing in the minute hand which can be rotated to adjust the strike release point. Be careful not to break the hand!

Hi Todd- I can be contacted here... abouttime-clockmaking.com/contact-us

HI Devon- If a clock is set in beat and still doesn't want to run then yes, there are power problems which are preventing the pendulum from having sufficient over-swing. It could be due to dry and dirty oils or wear issues or a myriad of other things. If straightening out these issues aren't something you are comfortable doing, you can seek out a professional here... awci.memberclicks.net/find-a-professional Hope that helps!