I learned something watching this video. A “moderate” pressure with the probes is what’s needed to successfully weld nickel strip to battery can. Too “light” makes sparks between probes and strip and not enough melt on the battery can due to inadequate contact between the strip and battery. Too “heavy” reduces the resistance between the probes, strip and battery, so much there is inadequate melt with the energy supplied. One could increase the available energy in this last case but at the risk of bringing one much closer to electrically piercing (melting a hole) through the battery can. Too much of any one variable results in a failure of some kind! It appears producing a good spot weld requires technique and finesse. Thank you for taking us on the journey!
@@alanchase7329 I know I'm late, but, It blinks while charging, and when its fully charged the light is not blinking anymore. Unfortunately I can't tell you if theres an Indication of when it needs to be charged, because I got mine just a few days ago and there is no handbook for this device.
use a multimeter and touch the spot welders positive and negative probes with the multimeters probes, then if it’s under 3.3v you have to charge it. it uses a 5v usb 5.5x2.1 adapter.
Thanks for the in-depth review. I recently ordered the bare one, used it with my car battery at level 3, and got an excellent result. Honestly, I thought the portable one (one with a battery) would fail the test. I am surprised at the performance it pulled off. Also applying moderate pressure on the probes and making sure that the tips are important while welding.
I got the black box one a few days ago, and mine works very well. You need to fully charge it, and you know that it's fully charged when the light isn't blinking anymore. Hope you also get yours to work.
The first one I bought was the no case item burned that out in a heartbeat, bought a second one same type this time I followed the mods for it and it work but lugging around a battery for it and getting a charger got expensive. Got tired of it so I got this with the case. I like it better, easily chargers up with usb and all in one design,works well.
0.20mm nickel? Mayyyybe nickel plated steel but not pure nickel. Using plated steel is like using regular gas when premium is 10 cents more per gallon and your car's engine is tuned for premium. Nickel plated steel is not a great choice for a connection material. Nickel isn't a great choice but somewhere a compromise had to be made because spot welding copper is....insanely hard. Look at the ampacity of pure nickel, its like one fifth of copper....then look at the plated stuff. On top of that it corrodes/rusts over time which can pretty much ruin cells (no one in their right mind should use cells with rust)
I think the batteries weren't putting out enough current, I've seen both these welders work excellent in other videos. I ordered the Sequre spot welder, should have it in a week....Hopefully it works as well as the videos I've seen testing the Sequre models...they seem very well engineered.
So which one was better ? The boxed one with internal battery was not succesfull in 12:30 timestamp and later at video end you said it was the winner. Thanks for the video and testing anyway.
I have the black box version, it's good for small projects using the thinnest tape you can get, but if you use the next size up tape it will not weld even on the highest setting. Also when you use it you need to space out your welding or the prods get hot. I upgraded the battery 18650s in parallel will make the welding last longer but there is no warning that the battery is struggling it just doesn't weld that hood when the battery hoes low, I'm sure there may be some kind of warning but by the time it kicks in you have become very frustrated trying to weld. Overall it's a good little welder for small jobs, large jobs become very frustrating using it. I also just bought the red box type similar to the other one shown, but it has a red box and needs a car battery, so far I have found the black box better though I will try it with a bunch of 18650s to see if it will improve, at present I'm not impressed with it.
Mine spot welder with lipo battery arrived today, but it doesn't turn on.. button never light up the green led, while charging or pressing it to turn on / off the unit. :(
@@powerbatterychannel4315 I did disassemble the unit, and turned at first that battery was at 1.8V.. dead. After a few hours of charging, it has enough voltage to powerup internal circuit (let is now flashing and unit can be tuned on). I hope the lipo battery can survive. Thank You, and glad I bought a good spot welder (in case its not defective lool)
@@ahlidap It's always better to charge the battery separately. And if this method works, you will either use the device or you will have to install the Li-Po charger board. But it's anyway better than to purchase a new device. Wish you a good luck!
the negative side is always harder to spot weld. I bet it would work better if you clean the surface and worm up the batteries so there not cold . , just saying 808 back out
You are pressing the electrodes too hard. This reduces the resistance and allows the pulse to go through without creating any heat. Enough pressure to make good contact and you will produce a good weld. (or have the electrodes further apart) So many of these reviews and all making basic mistakes like using underpowered power supplies or pressing too hard on the electrodes. The welder is fine, you just need to practice your technique.
Друг, ты меня извини, но зачем ты так давишь на щупы? тебе не хватает спортзала? Для того что бы качественно сварить не нужно сильно давить на щупы, обзор не объективный так как на 12v сварка давишь очень сильно, по видио видно как трясутся руки, эх обманываешь ты англоязычную публику...
I learned something watching this video. A “moderate” pressure with the probes is what’s needed to successfully weld nickel strip to battery can. Too “light” makes sparks between probes and strip and not enough melt on the battery can due to inadequate contact between the strip and battery. Too “heavy” reduces the resistance between the probes, strip and battery, so much there is inadequate melt with the energy supplied. One could increase the available energy in this last case but at the risk of bringing one much closer to electrically piercing (melting a hole) through the battery can. Too much of any one variable results in a failure of some kind!
It appears producing a good spot weld requires technique and finesse. Thank you for taking us on the journey!
You are welcome!
I have the one with the black case. Works great and have done hundreds of welds so far.
How do you know when it needs recharging and how do you know when it is fully charged.
@@alanchase7329 I know I'm late, but, It blinks while charging, and when its fully charged the light is not blinking anymore.
Unfortunately I can't tell you if theres an Indication of when it needs to be charged, because I got mine just a few days ago and there is no handbook for this device.
use a multimeter and touch the spot welders positive and negative probes with the multimeters probes, then if it’s under 3.3v you have to charge it. it uses a 5v usb 5.5x2.1 adapter.
also when it’s fully charged the green light stays on and doesn’t blink
Thanks for the in-depth review. I recently ordered the bare one, used it with my car battery at level 3, and got an excellent result. Honestly, I thought the portable one (one with a battery) would fail the test. I am surprised at the performance it pulled off. Also applying moderate pressure on the probes and making sure that the tips are important while welding.
Thanks! This is the first video that really helps!
You are welcome!
I got the black box one a few days ago, and mine works very well. You need to fully charge it, and you know that it's fully charged when the light isn't blinking anymore.
Hope you also get yours to work.
Thanks for your comment!
Please, subscribe to my another channel: th-cam.com/channels/bQUNw5V5pDPXugLX1FP_Fg.html
The first one I bought was the no case item burned that out in a heartbeat, bought a second one same type this time I followed the mods for it and it work but lugging around a battery for it and getting a charger got expensive. Got tired of it so I got this with the case. I like it better, easily chargers up with usb and all in one design,works well.
I just bought bought the portable one with the black case. It welded 0.2 and seems to be working fine.
0.20mm nickel? Mayyyybe nickel plated steel but not pure nickel. Using plated steel is like using regular gas when premium is 10 cents more per gallon and your car's engine is tuned for premium.
Nickel plated steel is not a great choice for a connection material. Nickel isn't a great choice but somewhere a compromise had to be made because spot welding copper is....insanely hard. Look at the ampacity of pure nickel, its like one fifth of copper....then look at the plated stuff. On top of that it corrodes/rusts over time which can pretty much ruin cells (no one in their right mind should use cells with rust)
I think the batteries weren't putting out enough current, I've seen both these welders work excellent in other videos.
I ordered the Sequre spot welder, should have it in a week....Hopefully it works as well as the videos I've seen testing the Sequre models...they seem very well engineered.
So which one was better ? The boxed one with internal battery was not succesfull in 12:30 timestamp and later at video end you said it was the winner.
Thanks for the video and testing anyway.
The device in the box is better definitely.
@@powerbatterychannel4315 Thanks for you answer and testing.
I used a 3S 5200mAH 80C lipo pack, it work great.
This device can handle 12 v?
I have the black box version, it's good for small projects using the thinnest tape you can get, but if you use the next size up tape it will not weld even on the highest setting.
Also when you use it you need to space out your welding or the prods get hot.
I upgraded the battery 18650s in parallel will make the welding last longer but there is no warning that the battery is struggling it just doesn't weld that hood when the battery hoes low, I'm sure there may be some kind of warning but by the time it kicks in you have become very frustrated trying to weld.
Overall it's a good little welder for small jobs, large jobs become very frustrating using it.
I also just bought the red box type similar to the other one shown, but it has a red box and needs a car battery, so far I have found the black box better though I will try it with a bunch of 18650s to see if it will improve, at present I'm not impressed with it.
Good review. Great idea to scope the outputs during welding.
Good thanks to your hand. So I got it from that black boxed device, and I haven't used it yet. Do you know what batteries are in there?
Li-Po 11Ah
2 * (5V/5.5AH) Lithium Polymer Battery
does the battery included (boxed spot welder?) or i have to buy on my own?
The battery is included in boxed version.
Mine spot welder with lipo battery arrived today, but it doesn't turn on..
button never light up the green led, while charging or pressing it to turn on / off the unit.
:(
Try to disassemble and measure the voltage of its battery. Maybe there is a problem of wires.
@@powerbatterychannel4315 I did disassemble the unit, and turned at first that battery was at 1.8V.. dead.
After a few hours of charging, it has enough voltage to powerup internal circuit (let is now flashing and unit can be tuned on).
I hope the lipo battery can survive.
Thank You, and glad I bought a good spot welder (in case its not defective lool)
@@ahlidap It's always better to charge the battery separately. And if this method works, you will either use the device or you will have to install the Li-Po charger board. But it's anyway better than to purchase a new device.
Wish you a good luck!
Would it work on aluminum can?
I have no idea; it was tested only with nickel.
No, there is an oxide layer that restricts spot welding with these
Good day can I use 3s 18650 battery pack instead of car battery???. Thanks😃
Hello, no, it will not work at all.
@@powerbatterychannel4315 if you put 20 in parallel lol. GottA get amps
You also have to remember that your not going to swing on the connection.
Perfect review video, well done.
Thank you!
the negative side is always harder to spot weld. I bet it would work better if you clean the surface and worm up the batteries so there not cold . , just saying 808 back out
You are pressing the electrodes too hard. This reduces the resistance and allows the pulse to go through without creating any heat. Enough pressure to make good contact and you will produce a good weld. (or have the electrodes further apart)
So many of these reviews and all making basic mistakes like using underpowered power supplies or pressing too hard on the electrodes.
The welder is fine, you just need to practice your technique.
Thanks)
11:13 becacuse you have weak tape. Device weeld good
I almost think that this is Borat doing spot welder review.
Друг, ты меня извини, но зачем ты так давишь на щупы? тебе не хватает спортзала? Для того что бы качественно сварить не нужно сильно давить на щупы, обзор не объективный так как на 12v сварка давишь очень сильно, по видио видно как трясутся руки, эх обманываешь ты англоязычную публику...
How thick Was your nickel strip? 0.10, 0.12, 0.15?
0.10
@@powerbatterychannel4315 I have the bare board model, using 3 12Ah batteries ( also tried a large and small car battery ), IT CANNOT WELD 0.15
@@sovereignman6951 The resistance of the cables should be as low as possible; in this case it should weld.
Some nickel strips a a scam, they have steel inside instead to be completely nickel.
Good video
Thanks
I don't think any of this 2 device can weld 0.20 or thicker they are good for foe 0.12 or thinner strip
Thx
You are welcome
Hello! Ukraine!
Your battery is weak.
It's not simply weak, it has high internal resistance.
Looks like a fail
Noob welder, you are not suppose to press it hard geez smh