It's so refreshing to hear you say this Sam. You're a true professional, who takes pride in his work. A rare breed nowadays and a delight to see. Keep up the great work!!
This actually may not be the best idea. The wood whisperer did a video recently on this topic. By flooding the wood you end up with uncured oil trapped inside. The oil can leach back to the surface days weeks months or even years later. Then the uncured oil will cure on the surface and turn white as it dries and crazes. it also may not be anymore water resistant in the long run. I really messed up a couch build for a customer. I kept adding pure tung oil every day for a week. It ended up with tons of white spots. I gave it to the customer like that and promise to fix it later. I'm dreading having to take that on.
This is what I do with my cutting boards. I float them in a mineral oil bath and allow the capillary action of the wood to pull the oil fully through the wood. Normally soak for several hours. After its fully soaked i take it out and drain it. Then after the excess has drained, finish with a coat of beeswax.
It genuinely fills my heart with joy to see anyone- but makers, especially- advocating for perpetual improvement & taking things all the way beyond "sufficient (...probably)" to "100% as great as I could make it". Not only is that maybe the main thing that sets a craftsperson apart from any other entity that produces items, but even aside from the good of the craft or competing with mass production- I'm just through-and-through happy to see it in the world, period. It genuinely makes me feel less hopeless & alone in the world & I thank you for that, sir.
Great advice, my grandfather told me, you apply the oil to the top of a cutting board, until you see it seeping out of the bottom of the board. He said you can never use too much oil. Especially with hard woods. Blessings to you and your family
Its not criminal to be passionate... I have been a woodworker for 35 years.. An passion is in my blood as well, in everything I do............. So-- go be an do...!
Great video today. I agree with everything you have said even though I have been guilty of starving my own store bought utensils and cutting boards at times. I appreciate the passion and encourage you to keep doing your thing. The fact that you use a more expensive and specific oil shows that you care about your product and customers, rather than cheaping out for the less expensive mineral oil. That's the kind of thing that sets you apart, and as you know is a good selling point for your product.
Great video! Well said, there is nothing wrong with the opinion that people they should want to make the best product they can for themselves, the customer and the wood working community!!
This is a GREAT video! There will be some that are going to say that perhaps 3 days in a bath is too much, but, I am smart enough to see this video for what it actually is - Emphasize taking the additional time and steps to not only produce a quality product, but run your creations through (basically) an in-house stress test FOR your clients. We can all decide exactly how much finish to expose our projects to, and for how long, but the point you have made here is to stop doing the bare minimum, and I wholeheartedly agree!! These are high gross profit items and clients expect them to be of higher quality than the mass-produced stuff available at local retailers. If we as makers tell the market that our products are no better, well, there goes not only our respect, but our value, demand and side-hustle (for me at least). GREAT video and cheers from Florida!
Wow, Sam. You continue to impress and amaze me. You are singing the song of my people. I periodically (but not often enough) take out all of my wooden utensils (many are olive wood), wooden cutting boards and salad bowl, and spend a Zen hour or two refreshing the oil on them, letting them sit overnight and wiping them down the next day. I’ve never used a bath, but I like the idea! Every once in awhile a visitor or my husband will put one of my wooden utensils in the dishwasher!! So that piece will get loving attention to bring it back to healthy wood. And you are SO very right about different climates and the effect of humidity or lack thereof on wood products. I’ve lived in Northeast Ohio and in Florida and the difference is startling. Keep sharing the wisdom, Sam!
Have not made any cutting boards or utensils, but this makes so much sense. The deeper you can get the oil, the better the wood will handle water and the harsh environment they will see. Love the passion and pride you put forth in this video. It is the sign of being a craftsman and not just some woodworker
thanks for this video. I have run a wood shop for over 30 years making cabinets and I often see other shops skimping on materials or otherwise rushing products to market. I learned my craft in a shop with only one power tool, a table saw. everything else was done by hand. I still use that method as much as possible.that being said, I was introduced to lasers a couple of years ago by my son, a design engineer. I bought one of his old stool D1 lasers and was hooked. I just bought as F1 with the bed extension and have been following your videos as well as others I have found..I found your jigs for the f1 to be awesome. thanks for the help.i will continue to follow your videos.
This is probably the most useful video regarding wood finishes I have found. Any chances of me going into actual wood working may be years down the road, but at least I have a proper tool to hold onto later.
I’ve been watching your channel for about a week now and I really like your style, it is to the point, knowledgeable with some humor thrown in which i think is refreshing! Keep up the good work Sam!
I agree with you 100%.. As woodworkers. we really need to pay attention more to the little details of our products that we sell. Keep up the great work and information on your videos!
i did enjoy it and i hear ya. i do the same with the boards i make. i just finished one for my mother and that sucker drank half a jug of oil. kinda got worried i may be over doing it so it was a relief to find someone that agreed with me
I applied oil to my first and current thick cutting board by keeping it very warm by my wood stove, and applying more and more. I let it stay warm for days even putting it on top of the stove with a trivet, when the stove was not so hot. It was a drying oil, linseed, which would require, IMO, soaking as you did, then a month to dry; or.... heating your wood in an oven, and heating your oil some, then a shorter soak, because the wood will quickly soak up the oil. Tung oil probably better. You can also heat your wood pieces after soaking to speed the drying time. Maybe a quick final coat of wax?
Great tips video! If you are going to take the time to make something for someone else to buy and use, take the advice here and make it worth it. If you have an issue with the cost of the oils or finishes you are using you might want to look at the rest of the picture and check material costs, time, shipping, and sales prices to see if it's able to be offset somewhere a lot more than a bottle of oil that you can get a few uses out of for several items.
Very well said Sam 👍. I have never sold anything I have made but if your intention is to sell then it has to be 100%, or you won't be selling them for long. Thanks for the video Sam. Stay safe 😁👍
Have you ever considered or tried putting a piece into oil and using a pressure or vacuum to enhance the time & depth of "soak"? I'm just thinking of something like a PVC tube sealed on one end and screwed on the other with a fitting to either apply a small amount of pressure or small amount of vacuum.
When using drying oils with long cure times (Tung oil), applying a coat and allowing it to dry fully can help. Soaking works okay with these oils if the piece is sitting to cure for over a year, but moderately thick pieces take about that long to cure through with pure oil (and solvent mixtures of such). Once you have an application mostly dried, it'll somewhat retard the penetration of the oil of subsequent applications, so that you can apply more without it going so deep that it's liable not to cure.
THANK YOU!! I've been doing this with my cutting boards since I started a few years ago. The 10 minute sit & wipe method never made sense to me. I've been using mineral oil bath for my boards for 12 hours at a minimum.
Hello Sam. Very much agree. I am an older guy and was taught ,by my Dad when you do a job do one you can be proud of. Has you run a business you may want to try and use a small vacuum pump to speed up the old penetration. Some are not that high and you could get by with a very low cfpm / cubic foot per minuet. Hope that helps a bit. Liked,shared. All my best.
Your method is the way to do it. I've seen cutting board makers drop the boards in a sink full of mineral oil and then take them out and put them on a rack over the sink to drain off the next day. BTW, butcher block oil is mineral oil...so you may be able to save a few dollars by switching to that, same product, different name. A coat of bees wax is also nice in addition because it too is food safe.
The oil I use is a plant-based oil, so isn't mineral oil. But I've wanted to try out some beeswax finishing on some items to further enhance them. Take care Jim!
Well, I have never tried coconut oil in the 30 or so years I have been turning bowls. The main question I would have about it is does it polymerize? I have been using walnut oil for probably 25 years after I found out about it. It will polymerize after a week or so, especially if you expose it to sun light and minimal heat. This provides a better finish than any oil that does not polymerize. I have heard of using grape seed oil, and hemp oil, but again, know nothing about them polymerizing. Tung oil does polymerize, but tends to leave too much residue. I started using Mike Mahoney's walnut oil, and switched to the product from The Doctor's Woodshop, in part because we are both from Oregon. Have you tried other oils? How did you settle on coconut oil?
How long does it take for cutting board to dry after being soaked in mineral oil? And what would you suggest to seal a cutting board ? This is a store bought cutting board (bamboo)
I would really like to know which oil you use. Also, I'm afraid of different oils going rancid. I use grapeseed oil on my cast iron and my cutting board. Thoughts? Hello by the way, this is the very first time I have seen one of your posts 😊
While I do agree with you about finishing the product up correctly, I want to know why you put food grade finishing on the push/pull sticks? Is it only because that's all you have and don't want to spend more on another product or something else?
What oil are you referring to? Mineral, tung, linseed? I like your work philosophy and approach. On my end grain cutting boards, I like a 50/50 blend of 100% tung oil/ orange peel oil. I do not make face grain or edge grain cutting boards. These types always show knife scratches (home for bacteria), and have to be re-sanded and refinished.
I agree with you to finish food used items well. I use pure tung oil as it is a true all natural finish. I don't like mineral oil because it is a by product of refining fuel. I like using the all natural finish and make a finishing wax with tung oil, beeswax, and carnuba wax to keep everything all natural. I have also heard of people using walnut oil. I'm not against mineral oil I just like to keep it all natural
You and me both! I'm not a fan of Mineral Oil either. This is my oil of choice amzn.to/3vYn3PR all plant based. I've not tried tung oil though, may have to check into that! Walnut oil I always wondered if those with nut allergies would be affected, so never used it.
You really should have stated heavily in this video that you used Coconut Oil. Since it is known for not having a sticky residue, which other oils do. Most other oils when used like this would be ridiculous and would end up being trash, due to having to check it every couple hours for up to week"s" after and 24 hour bath. With other oils, if not wiped on a regular 4-6 hour schedule after doing a bath for a day can leave you with gummy residue that in most cases ends up ruining your product. Since you left that key component out, you may have led people to ruining a large batch of products. Just an FYI from a CNC batch woodworker that has ran tests on the "other oils" and had very bad results. I will definitely try this method and run it through my torture tests. This would have been great info if you would have given all parameters.
Great video...I totally agree with u saying give the customer the best...I am just getting started with my CNC business and that is what I am striving for...I don't want ppl to think they are getting a cheap made item...Heck there's already too much of that crap from china..keep up the great work 👍
@@Samcraftcom 4 sure..I want to make things that will last longer than the person that buys it..I appreciate all u do to help all of the other woodworkers..I hope once I get my videos going I can do as well as u..Thanks Again
Have you ever took two pieces of the same wood, do traditional coating on one and your method on the other and then cut them in half to see exactly how deep the oil traveled? Im curious now. Humm but I’m with you on this defiantly.
A very good video for a newbie like me. Very honest & truthful video. Could you please advise me as to what type of glue to use for a cutting board, TIA.
By far the most popular wood glue for cutting boards is Titebond III ( amzn.to/2XYMYZo ) It's one of only a few approved and rated for direct contact with food. Good luck!!!
Even for change bowls or other small workable items I would have thought the time and mess saved by dunking/soaking would be worth more than the amount of oil you'd lose. Also having a longer lasting finish cant hurt. Not to mention how much money did you really save having you finish soak into a rag vs soaking it into the product and letting them drip "dry" back into the bucket you use to work the items.
I totally agree. Just a question, Sam. I make kitchen cutting boards just for my own household. I use vegetable oil because it is way cheaper. Olive oil, canola or sunflower oil. What am I loosing out on by doing that? Longevity? Looks of the boards?
@@Samcraftcomit's not a high risk, it's guaranteed. Those oils do go rancid. It's basic food science. You'll be much better off buying food grade mineral oil for $25/gallon, which is used on almost all industrial food cutting boards, food processing equipment in every piece of meat or food you buy, and all restaurants - and it will never go rancid. Or, as in this poster's preference, he uses MCT oil, which will have a much longer window before going rancid than your other food oils.
@@Samcraftcom Thanks for the response. I haven’t made very many boards but all but one have been end grain and 3d for family so most will probably be displayed but I made them to use like any other. I finished about all of them in different ways just from reading different opinions so I hope they are used so I can see if any have a problem. The last 2 I used 2 coats of Odies oil and a coat of the Odies butter. Thanks again. I’m also hoping to get a Shapeoko in the next production run in March. It sold out in less than 3 hours after I got my email on this run. I am a mechanic but have almost zero cnc knowledge.
If you think this came across as rude and or mean, you need more practice. Everything you said only shows pride in doing a good job. Plus this is all just common sense if a person wants to establish a good reputation and loyal customers. Get out those verbal boxing gloves and keep at how you do the right way. 😎
Awesome! I think you'll be happy with my channel overall then. I plan to make it about projects and things you can do to make money and talking about the business of woodworking.
Great video! I totally agree in fact I have a large tub with gallons of oil for cutting boards. $13 for 8 oz of oil?😳 I buy pharmaceutical grade mineral oil for way cheaper by the gallon.
Thanks for the tips. I've been that guy that gives my first few cutting boards 3 or 4 coats of butcher block oil and called it good. Now I'm gonna invest in a system for a bath for multiple types and sizes of cutting boards. Would you recommend oak for cutting boards or is it too hard on knives. You got a new subscriber. Thanks again for the information and can't wait to check your other videos.
Oil it as often as it appears needed -- whenever it looks dry. Most people use food grade mineral oil (easily found at drug stores in the laxative section). I prefer to use a different oil for my products that is plant-based. It's more expensive, but worth it in my opinion. Here's a link to the oil + wax kit. You would apply the oil and let it soak in as much as possible, then come back and apply the wax for a lasting protection. amzn.to/3afWFqE Hope this helps!
What is the food safe product that you use? I'm just getting started making things and appreciate your viewpoint. Would you have a good alternative, less costly oil you could recommend for someone like me who is not making for others? Thank you very much.
Many use mineral oil and it works great, is cheap, and easy to find at drug stores. I use a very special plant-based oil finish from Canada to offer non-petroleum utensils to my customers.
How dare you speak of the truth it’s 2021 and that is not allowed! Obviously I’m kidding! Awesome video and tips, I make and sell cutting boards and my process is very similar. Keep up the good work and may God bless you and your family!
Why didn't you put more oil in the box then say they to be submerged but clearly they were not all submerged. Did you put more oil in after the camera turned off? Just wondering.
@@Samcraftcom "cutting board oil" is mineral oil...wait. expensive cutting board oil, same as salad bowl oil...buy a $2 bottle and try a test, the tell us what the difference is after an overnight bath, or even a months service. Not trying to be a butt, trying to save you money without sacrificing quality.
I watched you build your shop and I really like it. Was it expensive? I’m sorry I don’t remember if you addressed it or not in the videos but I’m just curious.
It cost right at $4,000 in materials back when it was built. It was much cheaper than having one built. That being said, I built a storage shed (10x20) for my mother last year at the materials cost about $4,000 as well. Much smaller building, but same price. I would expect my shop to be about $5,000 in materials in today's costs. Hope this helps!
Took 4 minutes to get to the point. Geeeze. Americans I add spirits to thin the oil out for deeper penetration and heat the oil first. Gets at least twice the penetration if you really want to do it properly. Do your own test pieces then cut them in half and see. Also you need a mesh draining tray like what you sit cookies on over the container to save oil. Also After the final sand, a light spray with water then let it dry. Then final sand again before oiling. This will get rid of the fur you can get after oiling. Cheers Mikey from Australia.
what gets me is people who build furniture and never seal it. they just put a top coat on it. poly is NOT a sealer, Lacquer is NOT a sealer. it is a finish. at least use sanding sealer on the wood before your top coat.
If it isn't oiled thoroughly, the grain will pop for sure once it draws moisture. You know people (some anyway) will abuse the utensils and do everything up to and including the dishwasher on kill. I'm of like mind, you have to do everything you can to make your product the best you can. If people won't pay a little more for 1st class, so be it, they sell wood utensils in wally world, somebody has to waste their money on them. I thought I was the only soaker... (I do it with Mohawk instrument lacquer on non-food carvings - wanna talk expensive? But worth it.)
I make the utensil, sand the living shit out of it down to 220 then wash it with water, let it dry so the fibers raise, then sand fibers smooth the oil and wax the living shit out of it... seems to work.
*Utensil Box:* amzn.to/2RUwNsc *My Small Family Business:* greenacrehomestead.com *My Website/Blog:* sam-craft.com
It's so refreshing to hear you say this Sam. You're a true professional, who takes pride in his work. A rare breed nowadays and a delight to see. Keep up the great work!!
I appreciate that!
This actually may not be the best idea. The wood whisperer did a video recently on this topic. By flooding the wood you end up with uncured oil trapped inside. The oil can leach back to the surface days weeks months or even years later. Then the uncured oil will cure on the surface and turn white as it dries and crazes. it also may not be anymore water resistant in the long run. I really messed up a couch build for a customer. I kept adding pure tung oil every day for a week. It ended up with tons of white spots. I gave it to the customer like that and promise to fix it later. I'm dreading having to take that on.
This is what I do with my cutting boards. I float them in a mineral oil bath and allow the capillary action of the wood to pull the oil fully through the wood. Normally soak for several hours. After its fully soaked i take it out and drain it. Then after the excess has drained, finish with a coat of beeswax.
It genuinely fills my heart with joy to see anyone- but makers, especially- advocating for perpetual improvement & taking things all the way beyond "sufficient (...probably)" to "100% as great as I could make it". Not only is that maybe the main thing that sets a craftsperson apart from any other entity that produces items, but even aside from the good of the craft or competing with mass production- I'm just through-and-through happy to see it in the world, period. It genuinely makes me feel less hopeless & alone in the world & I thank you for that, sir.
I support small businesses that take pride in their work and will pay extra for quality! So refreshing to watch this video. Thank you!
I totally agree!
Great advice, my grandfather told me, you apply the oil to the top of a cutting board, until you see it seeping out of the bottom of the board.
He said you can never use too much oil.
Especially with hard woods.
Blessings to you and your family
Absolutely! A smart man! Blessings to you and yours, too.
Another great video! "Make the best", words to live by.thanks again Sam.
You bet!
Its not criminal to be passionate... I have been a woodworker for 35 years.. An passion is in my blood as well, in everything I do............. So-- go be an do...!
Great video today. I agree with everything you have said even though I have been guilty of starving my own store bought utensils and cutting boards at times. I appreciate the passion and encourage you to keep doing your thing. The fact that you use a more expensive and specific oil shows that you care about your product and customers, rather than cheaping out for the less expensive mineral oil. That's the kind of thing that sets you apart, and as you know is a good selling point for your product.
Great video! Well said, there is nothing wrong with the opinion that people they should want to make the best product they can for themselves, the customer and the wood working community!!
This is a GREAT video! There will be some that are going to say that perhaps 3 days in a bath is too much, but, I am smart enough to see this video for what it actually is - Emphasize taking the additional time and steps to not only produce a quality product, but run your creations through (basically) an in-house stress test FOR your clients. We can all decide exactly how much finish to expose our projects to, and for how long, but the point you have made here is to stop doing the bare minimum, and I wholeheartedly agree!! These are high gross profit items and clients expect them to be of higher quality than the mass-produced stuff available at local retailers. If we as makers tell the market that our products are no better, well, there goes not only our respect, but our value, demand and side-hustle (for me at least). GREAT video and cheers from Florida!
Wow, Sam. You continue to impress and amaze me. You are singing the song of my people. I periodically (but not often enough) take out all of my wooden utensils (many are olive wood), wooden cutting boards and salad bowl, and spend a Zen hour or two refreshing the oil on them, letting them sit overnight and wiping them down the next day. I’ve never used a bath, but I like the idea! Every once in awhile a visitor or my husband will put one of my wooden utensils in the dishwasher!! So that piece will get loving attention to bring it back to healthy wood. And you are SO very right about different climates and the effect of humidity or lack thereof on wood products. I’ve lived in Northeast Ohio and in Florida and the difference is startling. Keep sharing the wisdom, Sam!
I couldn't agree more. The FINISHED product makes or breaks your reputation. The best compliments are repeat customers and referrals.
Have not made any cutting boards or utensils, but this makes so much sense. The deeper you can get the oil, the better the wood will handle water and the harsh environment they will see. Love the passion and pride you put forth in this video. It is the sign of being a craftsman and not just some woodworker
Thanks!
More isn't always best.
thanks for this video. I have run a wood shop for over 30 years making cabinets and I often see other shops skimping on materials or otherwise rushing products to market. I learned my craft in a shop with only one power tool, a table saw. everything else was done by hand. I still use that method as much as possible.that being said, I was introduced to lasers a couple of years ago by my son, a design engineer. I bought one of his old stool D1 lasers and was hooked. I just bought as F1 with the bed extension and have been following your videos as well as others I have found..I found your jigs for the f1 to be awesome. thanks for the help.i will continue to follow your videos.
Yes!! Some people are more TH-cam smart than wood smart. You, sir have wood smarts, and need to share more.
This is probably the most useful video regarding wood finishes I have found. Any chances of me going into actual wood working may be years down the road, but at least I have a proper tool to hold onto later.
What an excellent video. Loved the upfront nature of this video. Looking forward to many more videos. Happy woodworking!
Thank you very much! Happy woodworking to you, too!
@@Samcraftcom No Problem. What videos have you got coming soon
I’ve been watching your channel for about a week now and I really like your style, it is to the point, knowledgeable with some humor thrown in which i think is refreshing! Keep up the good work Sam!
Glad you like them, welcome aboard!
I just finished a maple end grain cutting board. It turned out amazing
That is awesome!
@@Samcraftcom I put a video of it on my channel
Good tips Sam. Makes me realize I need to soak my cutting board.
Glad it was helpful!
You are proud of your work and want it to last and people to enjoy for years
Very well spoken. Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. I look forward to the next video.
I agree with you 100%..
As woodworkers. we really need to pay attention more to the little details of our products that we sell.
Keep up the great work and information on your videos!
Thank you Sam
i did enjoy it and i hear ya. i do the same with the boards i make. i just finished one for my mother and that sucker drank half a jug of oil. kinda got worried i may be over doing it so it was a relief to find someone that agreed with me
Thanks Sam for the info I never thought of doing that soaking them overnight but also makes alot of sense Thanks agai.
Amen brother. Always do your best to make your products the best.
I applied oil to my first and current thick cutting board by keeping it very warm by my wood stove, and applying more and more. I let it stay warm for days even putting it on top of the stove with a trivet, when the stove was not so hot. It was a drying oil, linseed, which would require, IMO, soaking as you did, then a month to dry; or.... heating your wood in an oven, and heating your oil some, then a shorter soak, because the wood will quickly soak up the oil. Tung oil probably better. You can also heat your wood pieces after soaking to speed the drying time. Maybe a quick final coat of wax?
Great tips video!
If you are going to take the time to make something for someone else to buy and use, take the advice here and make it worth it. If you have an issue with the cost of the oils or finishes you are using you might want to look at the rest of the picture and check material costs, time, shipping, and sales prices to see if it's able to be offset somewhere a lot more than a bottle of oil that you can get a few uses out of for several items.
Absolutely!
Thanks for the tips
Nice video. Thanks for keeping things real with those little tips. Keep it up!
Sam is a living legend - can’t stop sneezing
ok.....i could help but giggle every time i heard "dont starve your wood"....but awesome vid.
😎 Thanks!
Thanks for all the info. I like how you explain things.
Thank you for the words of wisdom!!! Much appreciated.
Love your commitment to the craft!
Absolutely spot on!
Very well said Sam 👍. I have never sold anything I have made but if your intention is to sell then it has to be 100%, or you won't be selling them for long. Thanks for the video Sam. Stay safe 😁👍
Thanks. Good thoughts
So use Caron & Doucet - Cutting Board & Butcher Block Conditioning & Finishing Oil and let it soak overnight. Now go watch some more videos
Have you ever considered or tried putting a piece into oil and using a pressure or vacuum to enhance the time & depth of "soak"?
I'm just thinking of something like a PVC tube sealed on one end and screwed on the other with a fitting to either apply a small amount of pressure or small amount of vacuum.
💓My nan use to soak all the wooden kitchen tools once she got them home said it made them last longer💓
Good explanation. Love your products. I want to buy more.
When using drying oils with long cure times (Tung oil), applying a coat and allowing it to dry fully can help. Soaking works okay with these oils if the piece is sitting to cure for over a year, but moderately thick pieces take about that long to cure through with pure oil (and solvent mixtures of such).
Once you have an application mostly dried, it'll somewhat retard the penetration of the oil of subsequent applications, so that you can apply more without it going so deep that it's liable not to cure.
THANK YOU!! I've been doing this with my cutting boards since I started a few years ago. The 10 minute sit & wipe method never made sense to me. I've been using mineral oil bath for my boards for 12 hours at a minimum.
I agree 1000 percent Sam! 😁🛫
So true I always say that ur work speak for you. You make good and beautiful product I know that for sure, nice video 👍👍👍👍👍
I appreciate that!
Hello Sam. Very much agree. I am an older guy and was taught ,by my Dad when you do a job do one you can be proud of. Has you run a business you may want to try and use a small vacuum pump to speed up the old penetration. Some are not that high and you could get by with a very low cfpm / cubic foot per minuet. Hope that helps a bit. Liked,shared. All my best.
Interesting subject, specially as utensils will be frequently soaked in water/detergents.
How good is coconut oil for people with nut allergies?
Your method is the way to do it. I've seen cutting board makers drop the boards in a sink full of mineral oil and then take them out and put them on a rack over the sink to drain off the next day. BTW, butcher block oil is mineral oil...so you may be able to save a few dollars by switching to that, same product, different name. A coat of bees wax is also nice in addition because it too is food safe.
The oil I use is a plant-based oil, so isn't mineral oil. But I've wanted to try out some beeswax finishing on some items to further enhance them. Take care Jim!
Great video man! Thanks much for the education.
How would you do bowls or goblets?
Great video brother. I appreciate your time ,effort, and the information you share.
Glad to help
Well, I have never tried coconut oil in the 30 or so years I have been turning bowls. The main question I would have about it is does it polymerize? I have been using walnut oil for probably 25 years after I found out about it. It will polymerize after a week or so, especially if you expose it to sun light and minimal heat. This provides a better finish than any oil that does not polymerize. I have heard of using grape seed oil, and hemp oil, but again, know nothing about them polymerizing. Tung oil does polymerize, but tends to leave too much residue. I started using Mike Mahoney's walnut oil, and switched to the product from The Doctor's Woodshop, in part because we are both from Oregon. Have you tried other oils? How did you settle on coconut oil?
👍👍two thumbs way up.
Good advice to live by. What exactly are the utensils you made in this video? thanks!
How long does it take for cutting board to dry after being soaked in mineral oil? And what would you suggest to seal a cutting board ? This is a store bought cutting board (bamboo)
How often do you soak the utensils? Just once before use or more often? I’m a new user of wood utensils.
I would really like to know which oil you use. Also, I'm afraid of different oils going rancid. I use grapeseed oil on my cast iron and my cutting board. Thoughts? Hello by the way, this is the very first time I have seen one of your posts 😊
While I do agree with you about finishing the product up correctly, I want to know why you put food grade finishing on the push/pull sticks? Is it only because that's all you have and don't want to spend more on another product or something else?
What oil are you referring to? Mineral, tung, linseed? I like your work philosophy and approach.
On my end grain cutting boards, I like a 50/50 blend of 100% tung oil/ orange peel oil. I do not make face grain or edge grain cutting boards. These types always show knife scratches (home for bacteria), and have to be re-sanded and refinished.
This stuff right here: amzn.to/3Tmj2R6 My customers love it, and so do I!
Love your passion. Thank you for your informative videos.
Thanks for watching!
Awesomeness
Great video my friend. Sound points and advice.
Good advise. Keep up the good work.
I agree with you to finish food used items well. I use pure tung oil as it is a true all natural finish. I don't like mineral oil because it is a by product of refining fuel. I like using the all natural finish and make a finishing wax with tung oil, beeswax, and carnuba wax to keep everything all natural. I have also heard of people using walnut oil. I'm not against mineral oil I just like to keep it all natural
You and me both! I'm not a fan of Mineral Oil either. This is my oil of choice amzn.to/3vYn3PR all plant based. I've not tried tung oil though, may have to check into that! Walnut oil I always wondered if those with nut allergies would be affected, so never used it.
True, iv only seen one dude put a cutting board in a bath of oil, the rest are more a 2-3 coats and done
You really should have stated heavily in this video that you used Coconut Oil. Since it is known for not having a sticky residue, which other oils do. Most other oils when used like this would be ridiculous and would end up being trash, due to having to check it every couple hours for up to week"s" after and 24 hour bath. With other oils, if not wiped on a regular 4-6 hour schedule after doing a bath for a day can leave you with gummy residue that in most cases ends up ruining your product. Since you left that key component out, you may have led people to ruining a large batch of products. Just an FYI from a CNC batch woodworker that has ran tests on the "other oils" and had very bad results. I will definitely try this method and run it through my torture tests. This would have been great info if you would have given all parameters.
Great video...I totally agree with u saying give the customer the best...I am just getting started with my CNC business and that is what I am striving for...I don't want ppl to think they are getting a cheap made item...Heck there's already too much of that crap from china..keep up the great work 👍
You've got that right re: cheap junk! :)
@@Samcraftcom 4 sure..I want to make things that will last longer than the person that buys it..I appreciate all u do to help all of the other woodworkers..I hope once I get my videos going I can do as well as u..Thanks Again
My man!
Have you ever took two pieces of the same wood, do traditional coating on one and your method on the other and then cut them in half to see exactly how deep the oil traveled? Im curious now. Humm but I’m with you on this defiantly.
Not yet! 😎👍
A video I would like to see!
👏👏👏
A very good video for a newbie like me. Very honest & truthful video. Could you please advise me as to what type of glue to use for a cutting board, TIA.
By far the most popular wood glue for cutting boards is Titebond III ( amzn.to/2XYMYZo ) It's one of only a few approved and rated for direct contact with food. Good luck!!!
How long have you found a cutting board takes to completely dry after a 24 hour bath?
Even for change bowls or other small workable items I would have thought the time and mess saved by
dunking/soaking would be worth more than the amount of oil you'd lose. Also having a longer lasting finish cant hurt. Not to mention how much money did you really save having you finish soak into a rag vs soaking it into the product and letting them drip "dry" back into the bucket you use to work the items.
Precisely!!
Great video! What brand of tools do you like and why? BE SAFE,GOD BLESS!🇺🇸🙏❤
I totally agree. Just a question, Sam. I make kitchen cutting boards just for my own household. I use vegetable oil because it is way cheaper. Olive oil, canola or sunflower oil. What am I loosing out on by doing that? Longevity? Looks of the boards?
I don’t think you’re missing anything with those oils with the exception that those food oils run a higher risk of getting rancid... so I’ve heard.
You got me going now....is it walrus oil
@@Samcraftcomit's not a high risk, it's guaranteed. Those oils do go rancid. It's basic food science.
You'll be much better off buying food grade mineral oil for $25/gallon, which is used on almost all industrial food cutting boards, food processing equipment in every piece of meat or food you buy, and all restaurants - and it will never go rancid.
Or, as in this poster's preference, he uses MCT oil, which will have a much longer window before going rancid than your other food oils.
Anything other than food grade mineral oil will go rancid.
Have you ever used or tried Odies oil or butter?
I've not, but seems many people really like it. I should check it out sometime!
@@Samcraftcom Thanks for the response. I haven’t made very many boards but all but one have been end grain and 3d for family so most will probably be displayed but I made them to use like any other. I finished about all of them in different ways just from reading different opinions so I hope they are used so I can see if any have a problem. The last 2 I used 2 coats of Odies oil and a coat of the Odies butter. Thanks again. I’m also hoping to get a Shapeoko in the next production run in March. It sold out in less than 3 hours after I got my email on this run. I am a mechanic but have almost zero cnc knowledge.
If you think this came across as rude and or mean, you need more practice. Everything you said only shows pride in doing a good job. Plus this is all just common sense if a person wants to establish a good reputation and loyal customers. Get out those verbal boxing gloves and keep at how you do the right way. 😎
What type of oil is it . Is it o k to use mineral oil on cutting boards.
Here's the oil I use: amzn.to/3E71Q9Z Many use mineral oil on their wood products, but I'm not a fan of it.
Very good advice thank you. I am trying to get my little wood working business going also. Any more advice let me know it would be greatly appreciated
Awesome! I think you'll be happy with my channel overall then. I plan to make it about projects and things you can do to make money and talking about the business of woodworking.
Great video! I totally agree in fact I have a large tub with gallons of oil for cutting boards. $13 for 8 oz of oil?😳 I buy pharmaceutical grade mineral oil for way cheaper by the gallon.
Right on!!! The finish I use isn't mineral oil, but a plant-based oil from Canada. 😎 No way I'd pay that much for mineral oil. LOL
Have you ever tried just mineral oil? You can find it as a laxative in any pharmacy cheaply.
Of course! Mineral oil is usually what most people use, but I choose not to for my customers.
Is this the milk paint company product?
Thanks for the tips. I've been that guy that gives my first few cutting boards 3 or 4 coats of butcher block oil and called it good. Now I'm gonna invest in a system for a bath for multiple types and sizes of cutting boards. Would you recommend oak for cutting boards or is it too hard on knives. You got a new subscriber. Thanks again for the information and can't wait to check your other videos.
Oak will work okay as a cutting board, but it's not ideal due to the fibrous nature and open pore structures of the wood. Thanks for the sub!
@@Samcraftcom Good to know thanks.
How often would you recommend oiling my butcher block counter top and what should I oil it with?
Oil it as often as it appears needed -- whenever it looks dry. Most people use food grade mineral oil (easily found at drug stores in the laxative section). I prefer to use a different oil for my products that is plant-based. It's more expensive, but worth it in my opinion. Here's a link to the oil + wax kit. You would apply the oil and let it soak in as much as possible, then come back and apply the wax for a lasting protection. amzn.to/3afWFqE Hope this helps!
What is the food safe product that you use? I'm just getting started making things and appreciate your viewpoint. Would you have a good alternative, less costly oil you could recommend for someone like me who is not making for others? Thank you very much.
Many use mineral oil and it works great, is cheap, and easy to find at drug stores. I use a very special plant-based oil finish from Canada to offer non-petroleum utensils to my customers.
How dare you speak of the truth it’s 2021 and that is not allowed! Obviously I’m kidding! Awesome video and tips, I make and sell cutting boards and my process is very similar. Keep up the good work and may God bless you and your family!
I did enjoy the video however I do not know what those utensils are used for LOL
Why didn't you put more oil in the box then say they to be submerged but clearly they were not all submerged. Did you put more oil in after the camera turned off? Just wondering.
Plain mineral oil from Walmart is like $2.00 a bottle.
Correct, but I don't use Mineral Oil.
@@Samcraftcom "cutting board oil" is mineral oil...wait. expensive cutting board oil, same as salad bowl oil...buy a $2 bottle and try a test, the tell us what the difference is after an overnight bath, or even a months service. Not trying to be a butt, trying to save you money without sacrificing quality.
I watched you build your shop and I really like it. Was it expensive? I’m sorry I don’t remember if you addressed it or not in the videos but I’m just curious.
It cost right at $4,000 in materials back when it was built. It was much cheaper than having one built. That being said, I built a storage shed (10x20) for my mother last year at the materials cost about $4,000 as well. Much smaller building, but same price. I would expect my shop to be about $5,000 in materials in today's costs. Hope this helps!
Took 4 minutes to get to the point.
Geeeze. Americans
I add spirits to thin the oil out for deeper penetration and heat the oil first.
Gets at least twice the penetration if you really want to do it properly.
Do your own test pieces then cut them in half and see.
Also you need a mesh draining tray like what you sit cookies on over the container to save oil.
Also
After the final sand, a light spray with water then let it dry.
Then final sand again before oiling.
This will get rid of the fur you can get after oiling.
Cheers
Mikey from Australia.
what gets me is people who build furniture and never seal it. they just put a top coat on it. poly is NOT a sealer, Lacquer is NOT a sealer. it is a finish. at least use sanding sealer on the wood before your top coat.
Walrus oil?
It's good stuff, too! amzn.to/3fwJHpo
If it isn't oiled thoroughly, the grain will pop for sure once it draws moisture. You know people (some anyway) will abuse the utensils and do everything up to and including the dishwasher on kill. I'm of like mind, you have to do everything you can to make your product the best you can. If people won't pay a little more for 1st class, so be it, they sell wood utensils in wally world, somebody has to waste their money on them.
I thought I was the only soaker... (I do it with Mohawk instrument lacquer on non-food carvings - wanna talk expensive? But worth it.)
I make the utensil, sand the living shit out of it down to 220 then wash it with water, let it dry so the fibers raise, then sand fibers smooth the oil and wax the living shit out of it... seems to work.
Ren?