Had beadlocks on for 4 years, two sets swapped all at home. Never once have lost a bolt or air pressure, perfect on or off road. I can see a sidewall rock push impaling into that internal stud. No thanks, I'll stick with what is guaranteed to work.
I see this as a much lighter option vs being better and more reliable. A boltless beadlock(low profile inner tube) works as well as this though. But more of a pain to deal with when replacing tires. I think this is a better option than beadlocks if you're an overlander that also does a lot of freeway driving.
@@DWaaX These wheels are under $350. You're not getting 38lb beadlocks for under $500-600. And I think 5-6lbs is noticable with braking. The thing I don't like is that these only come in 17". *These are 32lbs on their website
Haha you caught a glimpse of my little Bronco there at ICON :) And yeah those wheels are badass. There'll be a set going on that Bronco soon. Another great video Matt!
That’s freaking cool! So awesome to see this new technology coming to market. Loved the cutaway animations of the wheel against the Nitto tire trail grappler too. Excellent video Matt!
Excellent video! I've just installed Rebound Pro's on my 2018 JK. The tire technician had not seen them and was happy to learn along with me. Just one question: after the tire bead is seated, instructions state that air must be taken out before tightening the pins. What is the reason for this? Can't the pins be fully screwed in without taking out the air?
Interesting in checking these out in Ironhide. All the boxes are checked with these and of course, mainly the excess maintenance and being DOT approved.
Drag cars are doing nothing like this. They run screws directly into the bead through the outside lip of the rim essentially screwing the tire to the rim.
Yeah, I was thinking exactly about the inner side too. Well, the wheels come in 3 main different variations: 1. normal wheels without any beadlock 2. Consumer grade beadlocks which only lock the outer bead 3. Proper beadlocks which are a 3 piece set with the main body of the wheel, the face and outer bead of the wheel and a cilinder that pushes both tyre beads against the wheel beads as you assemble the 2 halfs together and torque them. This is like a 1.5 type. It doesn't lock the bead by any means in its place but it prevents the outer bead from rolling off and loosing the tyre on low pressures. Now, tyres do loose their beads on both sides, but it is way more common for it to happen on the outer bead. Think about it for the tyre to roll off of its bead you must have a heavy lateral load on it. So, how can you load your tyres laterally? Well, being sideways (sort of). And the weight of the vehicle will be carried by the tyres that happen to be lower in the ground, and as gravity pulls straight towards the centre of the earth, the load will be on the outer bead of the tyre that is closer to the centre of the earth. So it will roll out of its bead on the outer bead. Hioe it hepls
Great product and great video. But really falls short when they start talking about beadlock legality....hmmm can you post any law or regulation from any US state that shows that beadlock wheels are "illegal"? Really hoping you can find something to back that up....
Mmm, well, there are wheels without beadlocks, there are traditional single beadlockers that only lock the outter bead and there are proper bead lockers that are a 3 piece set and lock both beads. Now we have theese. They dont lock the beads, they prevent them from rolling off. But only the outter bead! This tech has its place and it is a very good starting point, but let me give you an idea. Traditional beadlocks which only lock the outer bead need a way to secure the inside bead from rolling off. You guys can figure out the rest of it. And BTW, those studs are too big and their angle is kinda funky. If you place them as I suggest but in a perpendicular angle or following the angle of the tyre where they contact you might get interesting results. And please increase your load ratings to E. You probably will sell these to overlanders with very heavy rigs and they can also tow others or tow a trailer and you will find tons of E rated tyres on those rigs.
What kind of beadlocks was this guy running that lose air right after being torqued down properly? Have been running mine with literally no issues since day 1.
No point in naming names, but I've rad 3 or 4 of the more popular beadlock companies and have had several instances where the ring wouuld never fully seal. Not all are bad, but it's nevertheless a problem I routinely ran into on my trail rig.
How sensitive are the studs for being hit then going low pressure rockcrawling and the tire compress so much it touches? Searching beadlocks and this would be awesome but rather torqe some bolts before wheeling than breake a stud and be stranded 🤔
Icon has been torture testing these like all their products for many months and thousands of miles before releasing to the market. I'd think the steel pin is stronger than the aluminum wheel, and the wheel is rated for 3200lbs.
Shilling hard man. I had beadlock wheels for years and not once was there a problem with them leaking or "bulging" or anything like that. I would just make sure they're torqued every rotation, which I plan on doing with these too.
Did I hear it correctly that they are still developing an 8 lug solution? I've been excited about these wheels from their release but what they would interest me for is my 8 lug truck.
When they are released, maybe they'll make their way onto my 1995 F-250. I would've thought 8x6.5 would've dropped with all the others they already dropped since it's so common. Guess the 7.3 will just have to wait it's turn.
ok can someone explain to me the cosmic force that holds the inside bead LOL why dose no one run pneumatic locks their full on DOT legal they work on dirt bikes and their rims are full of spoke holes
My TrailReady beadlocks have DOT markings signifying compliance. And this isn't mine, but there's this... This is the DOT's response to a letter of inquiry... Dear Mr. C, I received this message from NHTSA this morning: There are no performance or design requirements for rims covered under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 120. However, there are rim marking requirements in S5.2 and rim selection requirements in S5.3.2. Note that in S5.2, a reference is made to rims of multi-piece construction, and this implies that these multi-piece rims are allowed. The bead lock rim appears to be a multi-piece rim and there is nothing that I’m aware of that would prohibit them from being used for on-road vehicles. I have attached a copy of the standard. It may be that some State DOTs are regulating them. Hope this helps some Sincerely, Reference Services National Transportation Library Bureau of Transportation Statistics Research and Innovative Technology Administration U.S. Department of Transportation (end of their response) There are two states that have banned beadlock wheels, New Jersey and Utah, but no other states have actual laws against them.
@@kevinparsons346 Utah: "Bead lock wheels are allowed if they meet the SAE J2530 Aftermarket Wheel Performance Requirements and Test Procedures." rules.utah.gov/publicat/bulletin/2016/20160815/40631.htm beadlocks with external ring may not be allowed under J2530
"anything in the DOT guidelines that requires periodic maintenance is a no".... like.. pretty much do not maintain your vehicle peeps, it is illegal :D Sorry I just cna not let this go. Please post up references to said "laws" and "guidelines" from state or DOT... Thank you!
Pleaseeeeeee! Hutchinson Rock Monsters are so much better than these wheels. Where's the back bead lock on this wheel? No where. That's where the Hutchinson are so much better than this fraud, because they have a true bead lock front and back. Hutchinson wheels have been D.O. T. approved for years so this isn't 'new'. If this 'solves all of your problems' then Matt, you need to do better research and stop posting misleading information.
I know all about Hutchinson’s, bud. First started installing them on JK’s back at my first off-road job like 10 years ago. They’re incredibly expensive and not to my taste in design. Great wheels, no doubt. But these cater to a different audience.
So instead of a single seal I’d have a bunch of seals to just rot and go bad, if I air down and spin a tire I can destroy the inner bead of the tire? And depending on the tire there’s no guarantee these will even grab the sidewall and if a tire of any size that matters is install more than likely I’m going put a bunch of shitty pins right through the outside bead? I mean from and engineering standpoint this is probably the shittiest design I’ve ever seen. Probably be fine on modern IFS ball joint rigs that have 0 wheeling capabilities. You guys are so full of shit. Everything that’s coming out of your mouth right from the get go is physically impossible in the design. As for balancing a tall sidewall tire or running these at low pressure all I see with this is a bunch of tire damage from the inside out being absolutely terrifying to drive down the freeway. What happens when you fold that tire over those studs a bunch of times busting the bands that hold the tire together? What’s a 33 or 35” tire going to do to some little shitty thin ass Toyota when instead just throwing the tread it just separates right near the wheel and throws the tire? I mean there’s a bunch of solid bead lock solutions. But this is fucking horrible. The potential for retention is way to low, the potential for major tire damage, or better worded the most definite will absolutely destroy and damage the tire. So what does this actually help with? Why air down a tire if your just going to put a stud through the inside of your sidewall. Or even worse wear the rubber on the stud until the sidewall fails. Then your marketing them to vehicles that if they through a tire would absolutely fucking destroy the vehicle. Have you ever personally through the center tread on a front tire? Have you ever dealt with the whole inner fender, wiring to the equipment that was attached to the inner fender and the outside sheet metal? Shit on a modern vehicle that tire probably has enough momentum to set off an airbag sensor. This design looks like a great way to total a truck before you even wear through a set of tires. There’s a bunch of really well working not so hardcore beadlock options. There’s a bunch of DOT bead lock options and non DOT options (also not illegal to run federally some states may have laws but according to google it’s hard to find any legal evidence) in simple terms no ones got a ticket for beadlocks and there’s not enough court cases if they exist at all referencing damages to be paid from a failed bead lock. So do yourself a favor and buy legitimate bead locks, whether that’s a cheap steel traditional, hutchinsons (DOT approved without threatening the side wall of your tire and double locked), air up from the inside bead locks (way less seals to go bad and also removes the obvious electrolysis issue these stupid studs are most definitely going to have with the wheel. Especially considering 99% of the air your going to put in your tires is moister than an oyster) or you could run something like a H1 beadlock that’s also DOT stamped. How many options did I forget to mention? I wouldn’t advise wheeling many vehicles that icon builds parts for in any form of being relatively close to factory trim outside of a wrangler. But at the same time if this what your going to do this is putting your vehicle at risk of being totaled and being outside of the range of what your insurance will cover.
Had beadlocks on for 4 years, two sets swapped all at home. Never once have lost a bolt or air pressure, perfect on or off road. I can see a sidewall rock push impaling into that internal stud. No thanks, I'll stick with what is guaranteed to work.
I see this as a much lighter option vs being better and more reliable. A boltless beadlock(low profile inner tube) works as well as this though. But more of a pain to deal with when replacing tires. I think this is a better option than beadlocks if you're an overlander that also does a lot of freeway driving.
@@veganpotterthevegan These icon wheels weigh 35lbs vs 38lbs on a traditional beadlock (kmc), negligible difference, imo.
@@DWaaX These wheels are under $350. You're not getting 38lb beadlocks for under $500-600. And I think 5-6lbs is noticable with braking. The thing I don't like is that these only come in 17".
*These are 32lbs on their website
Put them on my JL. No leaks. Mounted them myself. Aired down just like my old beadlocks and they work great.
Was checking these out earlier today. Would love to see these with a consumable rash ring. Pretty cool!
Haha you caught a glimpse of my little Bronco there at ICON :) And yeah those wheels are badass. There'll be a set going on that Bronco soon. Another great video Matt!
Thanks Dusty! Can't wait to see your rig in it's "after" phase!
That’s freaking cool! So awesome to see this new technology coming to market. Loved the cutaway animations of the wheel against the Nitto tire trail grappler too. Excellent video Matt!
Agreed! Thanks bro
Any concerns with air leaking through the screws or long term rust/corrosion at the rim/screw interface?
I cannot wait to get these on my rig when new wheels are in the budget :). I hope when they are in budget, they'll have more wheel styles out.
Excellent video! I've just installed Rebound Pro's on my 2018 JK. The tire technician had not seen them and was happy to learn along with me. Just one question: after the tire bead is seated, instructions state that air must be taken out before tightening the pins. What is the reason for this? Can't the pins be fully screwed in without taking out the air?
Cool to see something different!
Agreed! It's rare these days.
Interesting in checking these out in Ironhide. All the boxes are checked with these and of course, mainly the excess maintenance and being DOT approved.
BBS did this for road racing back in the 70s. Also drag cars have been doing this for decades
Drag cars are doing nothing like this. They run screws directly into the bead through the outside lip of the rim essentially screwing the tire to the rim.
@@scootypuffjr. yup, OG beadlock… thanks for confirming
NOT confirming. It was for a totally different purpose on drag cars. To keep the rim from spinning inside the tire.
I got my pro’s recently. Can’t wait to air down and try them out.
Cool wheel. Why aren’t there bolts on the inside of the wheel? Can a tire de-bead from both the outside and inside? What am I missing? Thanks
Yeah, I was thinking exactly about the inner side too.
Well, the wheels come in 3 main different variations:
1. normal wheels without any beadlock
2. Consumer grade beadlocks which only lock the outer bead
3. Proper beadlocks which are a 3 piece set with the main body of the wheel, the face and outer bead of the wheel and a cilinder that pushes both tyre beads against the wheel beads as you assemble the 2 halfs together and torque them.
This is like a 1.5 type. It doesn't lock the bead by any means in its place but it prevents the outer bead from rolling off and loosing the tyre on low pressures.
Now, tyres do loose their beads on both sides, but it is way more common for it to happen on the outer bead. Think about it for the tyre to roll off of its bead you must have a heavy lateral load on it. So, how can you load your tyres laterally? Well, being sideways (sort of). And the weight of the vehicle will be carried by the tyres that happen to be lower in the ground, and as gravity pulls straight towards the centre of the earth, the load will be on the outer bead of the tyre that is closer to the centre of the earth. So it will roll out of its bead on the outer bead.
Hioe it hepls
What keeps the inside bead on though?? Thats why i like the Method Bead Grips!
Great product and great video. But really falls short when they start talking about beadlock legality....hmmm can you post any law or regulation from any US state that shows that beadlock wheels are "illegal"? Really hoping you can find something to back that up....
Awesome product great job Icon 💪👏
Mmm, well, there are wheels without beadlocks, there are traditional single beadlockers that only lock the outter bead and there are proper bead lockers that are a 3 piece set and lock both beads.
Now we have theese. They dont lock the beads, they prevent them from rolling off. But only the outter bead!
This tech has its place and it is a very good starting point, but let me give you an idea.
Traditional beadlocks which only lock the outer bead need a way to secure the inside bead from rolling off. You guys can figure out the rest of it. And BTW, those studs are too big and their angle is kinda funky. If you place them as I suggest but in a perpendicular angle or following the angle of the tyre where they contact you might get interesting results. And please increase your load ratings to E. You probably will sell these to overlanders with very heavy rigs and they can also tow others or tow a trailer and you will find tons of E rated tyres on those rigs.
Are the screws made from the same metal as the rim so there is no non dissimilar metal corrosion?
What kind of beadlocks was this guy running that lose air right after being torqued down properly? Have been running mine with literally no issues since day 1.
No point in naming names, but I've rad 3 or 4 of the more popular beadlock companies and have had several instances where the ring wouuld never fully seal. Not all are bad, but it's nevertheless a problem I routinely ran into on my trail rig.
Strange, kinda seems more like an installation issue than a manufacturing issue, perhaps the bead was not set properly before the ring was put on.
@@KodyFleming85 definitely wasn’t. Spacers should have been used!
Looking healthy dude!
Why they didn’t make a double beadlock with this design?
Very cool design 🤙🏽
I hope these will come out in a 20" wheel size.
wow they didn't have a conference room to do the interview over the wheel layout.
Beware , I think they make to order.. been waiting and waiting for mine!!
Nice wheels, now show us the DoT stamp on them. I'll wait.
How sensitive are the studs for being hit then going low pressure rockcrawling and the tire compress so much it touches? Searching beadlocks and this would be awesome but rather torqe some bolts before wheeling than breake a stud and be stranded 🤔
Icon has been torture testing these like all their products for many months and thousands of miles before releasing to the market. I'd think the steel pin is stronger than the aluminum wheel, and the wheel is rated for 3200lbs.
Yes it’s freaking awesome
should do those bolts on the inside too.
Shilling hard man. I had beadlock wheels for years and not once was there a problem with them leaking or "bulging" or anything like that. I would just make sure they're torqued every rotation, which I plan on doing with these too.
Did I hear it correctly that they are still developing an 8 lug solution? I've been excited about these wheels from their release but what they would interest me for is my 8 lug truck.
Yes! 8-lug versions are coming!
When they are released, maybe they'll make their way onto my 1995 F-250. I would've thought 8x6.5 would've dropped with all the others they already dropped since it's so common. Guess the 7.3 will just have to wait it's turn.
Man I LIKE those...
Are the wheels hub centric or lug centric?
“Reinvented the wheel” a bit dramatic don’t you think?
I really like these, but the price is astronomical!
Brakes require periodic maintenance, suspension needs periodic maintenance, and so forth. 4:08
I'm in the market for beadlocks for my rzr how long til they hit the market ?
Should be a few months out.
ok can someone explain to me the cosmic force that holds the inside bead LOL why dose no one run pneumatic locks their full on DOT legal they work on dirt bikes and their rims are full of spoke holes
Clever
These things look great. But I just looked them up and they're only coming in 17" wheels😑
Wouldn’t even need this if they would just use airless tires. TWEEL!
Just a more modern and refined form of the sheet metals screws an old racing trick.
Not even close
@@scootypuffjr. lol, ones behind the bead and one goes vertical into the bead. It’s pretty close.
Its a nice looking wheel but all they reinvented was 16 more places to leak air!
Where is the law that states beadlocks aren't legal on the highway?
Every beadlock wheel I’ve purchased said “for off-road use only” because they are not DOT compliant.
My TrailReady beadlocks have DOT markings signifying compliance. And this isn't mine, but there's this...
This is the DOT's response to a letter of inquiry...
Dear Mr. C,
I received this message from NHTSA this morning:
There are no performance or design requirements for rims covered under Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 120. However, there are rim marking requirements in S5.2 and rim selection requirements in S5.3.2. Note that in S5.2, a reference is made to rims of multi-piece construction, and this implies that these multi-piece rims are allowed. The bead lock rim appears to be a multi-piece rim and there is nothing that I’m aware of that would prohibit them from being used for on-road vehicles. I have attached a copy of the standard. It may be that some State DOTs are regulating them.
Hope this helps some
Sincerely,
Reference Services
National Transportation Library
Bureau of Transportation Statistics
Research and Innovative Technology Administration
U.S. Department of Transportation
(end of their response)
There are two states that have banned beadlock wheels, New Jersey and Utah, but no other states have actual laws against them.
@@kevinparsons346 Utah: "Bead lock wheels are allowed if they meet the SAE J2530 Aftermarket Wheel Performance Requirements and Test Procedures." rules.utah.gov/publicat/bulletin/2016/20160815/40631.htm beadlocks with external ring may not be allowed under J2530
"anything in the DOT guidelines that requires periodic maintenance is a no".... like.. pretty much do not maintain your vehicle peeps, it is illegal :D Sorry I just cna not let this go. Please post up references to said "laws" and "guidelines" from state or DOT... Thank you!
No drag racers been doing this for decades 😀
beadlocks are illlegal...in the DOT guidelines..... come on...
Pleaseeeeeee! Hutchinson Rock Monsters are so much better than these wheels. Where's the back bead lock on this wheel? No where. That's where the Hutchinson are so much better than this fraud, because they have a true bead lock front and back. Hutchinson wheels have been D.O. T. approved for years so this isn't 'new'. If this 'solves all of your problems' then Matt, you need to do better research and stop posting misleading information.
I know all about Hutchinson’s, bud. First started installing them on JK’s back at my first off-road job like 10 years ago. They’re incredibly expensive and not to my taste in design. Great wheels, no doubt. But these cater to a different audience.
So instead of a single seal I’d have a bunch of seals to just rot and go bad, if I air down and spin a tire I can destroy the inner bead of the tire? And depending on the tire there’s no guarantee these will even grab the sidewall and if a tire of any size that matters is install more than likely I’m going put a bunch of shitty pins right through the outside bead?
I mean from and engineering standpoint this is probably the shittiest design I’ve ever seen.
Probably be fine on modern IFS ball joint rigs that have 0 wheeling capabilities.
You guys are so full of shit. Everything that’s coming out of your mouth right from the get go is physically impossible in the design.
As for balancing a tall sidewall tire or running these at low pressure all I see with this is a bunch of tire damage from the inside out being absolutely terrifying to drive down the freeway. What happens when you fold that tire over those studs a bunch of times busting the bands that hold the tire together?
What’s a 33 or 35” tire going to do to some little shitty thin ass Toyota when instead just throwing the tread it just separates right near the wheel and throws the tire?
I mean there’s a bunch of solid bead lock solutions. But this is fucking horrible. The potential for retention is way to low, the potential for major tire damage, or better worded the most definite will absolutely destroy and damage the tire.
So what does this actually help with? Why air down a tire if your just going to put a stud through the inside of your sidewall. Or even worse wear the rubber on the stud until the sidewall fails.
Then your marketing them to vehicles that if they through a tire would absolutely fucking destroy the vehicle.
Have you ever personally through the center tread on a front tire? Have you ever dealt with the whole inner fender, wiring to the equipment that was attached to the inner fender and the outside sheet metal?
Shit on a modern vehicle that tire probably has enough momentum to set off an airbag sensor.
This design looks like a great way to total a truck before you even wear through a set of tires.
There’s a bunch of really well working not so hardcore beadlock options. There’s a bunch of DOT bead lock options and non DOT options (also not illegal to run federally some states may have laws but according to google it’s hard to find any legal evidence) in simple terms no ones got a ticket for beadlocks and there’s not enough court cases if they exist at all referencing damages to be paid from a failed bead lock.
So do yourself a favor and buy legitimate bead locks, whether that’s a cheap steel traditional, hutchinsons (DOT approved without threatening the side wall of your tire and double locked), air up from the inside bead locks (way less seals to go bad and also removes the obvious electrolysis issue these stupid studs are most definitely going to have with the wheel. Especially considering 99% of the air your going to put in your tires is moister than an oyster) or you could run something like a H1 beadlock that’s also DOT stamped.
How many options did I forget to mention?
I wouldn’t advise wheeling many vehicles that icon builds parts for in any form of being relatively close to factory trim outside of a wrangler. But at the same time if this what your going to do this is putting your vehicle at risk of being totaled and being outside of the range of what your insurance will cover.