I've seen my share of "how to dust your wheels" videos, but--never have I learned more about so many different wheel types, brands of diecast, and layers of lube application. Inner hub flash? When you spoke about that I grabbed desk cars and tried to find the telltale jumping as the wheel spun! Outer hub flash, most everyone spots that quickly, but wow, did I learn! Great inclusion of Johnny Lightning and their quirks, both in racing and prep--I watch Elevation Diecast's show where JL features very regularly, so that portion of the show had me paying attention for sure! Hmmm, "Chekhov's Axle Tool" in this episode. It was shown along with all the other supplies and gear, but not demonstrated. Would like to have seen just what that tool achieves and the process to get there. That aside, superb job!!
Thankyou for watching, hopefully you can use some of these techniques to gain speed! The axle tool is something I really don’t use much. It is probably more useful with the older Redlines, of which I don’t own many.
Good afternoon my friend. I can't thank you enough for this phenomenal tutorial. It has been beneficial to me and my cars. Outstanding Brandon. Outstanding. Again, thank you.
Great video Brandon, I definitely learned quite a bit from this and I should have better results. I'm excited to give it a try. I always dislike getting the cars dirty with graphite but you were able to apply it much cleaner than I've been able to. I'll follow your technique and keep them cleaner. Thanks again!
Excellent tips n tricks! Thank you so much for making a Very Informative video. I wish i had known all these tricks n tips when I had started....it would have saved me so much money spent on items I didnt need! Glad to see you did Mainline axles...JL axles ( I still dont understand the black ice formula) n also the laserwheels! In fact I just finally broke down n bought some laserwheels after watchin you, Red Pill, BLR, Matt man race them. Hopefully I have good luck with them! I wish you would have done how you dry lube FTE's. But I guess that could be another video! Thanks again for all the hard work and the video....Much Appreciated! Hopefully I will git faster after your tips!
Thank you Gene! This is just a starting point for those who are completely new to racing. Everybody has their own technique, and I totally support experimenting with different methods. Proofs in the pudding, right? Laser Wheels need lots of dust, at least they do in my experience. Good luck, they can be fast! FTE’s I will hit with graphite the same way I did these cars. If they still resonate after dusting, I use just a small amount of liquid dry lube on the inner hub and let dry.
Awesome video! I need to get one of those toothbrushes, or something similar. That thing really works the graphite down in there. Thank you for making this!
Good info, I’ve also watched Red Pills video prior to this one. I haven’t used any graphite on any cars yet. I’ll be sending a car in for a race this summer. See what I can get out of that one.
Whoa!!! That was really impressive! And I’m talking about how much the graphite made the green car faster. Was not talking about the 2 duds you opened up with the running wheels 🤣🤣
95% of the time, dust will make marked improvements over the cars without prep. Recently I have seen a few castings run relatively fast with smooth wheel-spin right out of the package. Apply graphite and those same cars either don’t improve, or slow down slightly. My theory there is that they may have some oil residue from the manufacturing process which helps it run good initially. But if you put graphite on this oil, it tends to slow it down. Definitely more evident on these lighter castings.
Great job Brandon! I’m inspired to try something different. I enjoyed your fresh perspective and colorful clips. Your diligence is rewarded. Race On Bro ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Well done, I think you have done a great job putting this vid together! Always interesting to see the small tweaks, and tools we come up with to try and make life easy and get the best results! Learn something new every day! As you show in your video, across the different makes/years etc one may need to adapt to get the best out of a particular set of wheels. Certainly is a great challenge! Cheers again!
Happy New Year, my friend! There is unfortunately no “set in stone” rule book or class designation. Most times, a track will advertise a mail in race and set the rules in their race announcement. Typically tracks will give 3-4 month advance notice of a race to allow participants to build the car, if necessary. As of right now, the 70g weight seems to be the norm for a lightweight modified car. While the heavyweight classes typically have no limit. Be sure to register on redlinederby.com to be in the know for future race events!
Sir love what you showing us💯 I'm new to the racing world, I see you showing 3 different graphics ..one was black ice. more info please...409 Diecast racing 😎🍻
Thank you for tuning in! Black Ice is 3in1 PTFE mixed with Derby Car Supply graphite mixed 20:1 approx. I don’t really use this formulation much any more with exception of really poor rolling Johnny Lightning’s, and even still it won’t make chicken salad out of chicken poo. 😂 Currently I use XLR8 and Pinewood pro graphites, and if the wheels still resonate after that I will hit them with Max V.
I have fixed many cars with this problem, take the body off and crimp the axle holding tabs with pliers, you will find out that this car is exceptionally fast compared to a stock one with wobbly axles
They can absolutely be fixed, but on a mainline car like this I usually don’t take them apart to fix unless I plan on modding them. Just my personal preference. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Great video. Well done. Do u have any Tipps for choosing a casting? What is better? Metal on Metal, Metal Base with plastic body or metal body and plastic base?
Weight, wheel track, wheelbase, wheels, and a straight roll. Weight: the heavier, usually the better. Wheel track: same width front and rear. I have never found a fast car that had a narrower front track. Wheelbase: the longer the better. More stability. Wheels: tall diameter and skinny. Tall means lower RPM, therefore less resistance where the wheel comes in contact with the axle. Skinny means less resistance between the wheel and the track. If you can find all of those qualities in a casting, you have a good chance with it. The 09 F-150’s have most of those covered, and that’s why they do well, even with a plastic chassis. Construction doesn’t really matter much, but metal/metal will almost always be heavier. More mass, more potential energy. The older HW gold Hotones and Ultrahots used thinner axles, usually resulting in lower rolling resistance. I have had success with almost all wheel varieties with exception of HW trap 5’s, and any wheel that has a tread moulded into the outer edges. If you have any more questions, ask away!
Nice work. I actually use isopropyl alcohol (as high % as you can get, but 91% works well) - 3 parts to one part graphite - in a mini oiler. Shake it up and put one or two drops in the center hub and it will travel down the axle, coat the inner wheel, and coat the inner hub as well as the free-spinning axle inside the chassis (if you're not drilling and removing the wheels). Work it in by rolling back and forth, let dry (only takes a few minutes), tap out the extra graphite, and reapply if necessary. Way faster with less effort and less mess. I haven't applied dry graphite since. Warning: The Iso WILL remove the chrome on your wheels.
I have a few substances besides graphite that need an alcohol as the vehicle for application. I look forward to trying them out using that method. Thank you for your input!
Nice video. It is always interesting to see how different people do their wheels with graphite. I have watched about every one of them I could find. Always good for new racers to learn what can work. I have never heard of black ice though.
Yes, this vid probably doesn’t have much to offer the hardened pros, there’s only so many ways to add graphite to wheels! Hopefully the new guys into the hobby get some benefit from it though!
You sir have earned a new sub🤝🏻 Also I've seen alot of people use graphite but what's your thoughts on using silicone spray? I've seen a few people swear by it and say it's better than graphite plus less mess. And lord knows my gf would appreciate me not making a mess😅 already on her bad side because I had my irl car tuned and it sounds like an ak47 so die cast racing is a new hobby. Long time collector but new to making them fast and customizing.
Thank you and welcome to the channel! I personally do not have much experience with a silicone that gave me good results. Not to say there isn’t a product out there that gets the job done. Many of the guys that race in Puerto Rico use the silicone… if you find something good, let me know.
@@ScaleRacingChannel I'm from the states, Kentucky to be specific so I'm sure I can use some redneck ingenuity to complete my build😂😂 first car modding so wish me luck (It's a 2009 C6 ZR-1 FTE i found unopened at a yard sale🤌🏻))
Sometimes its not the axle thats bent,many occations when i purchase a HW car,its the wheels are wobbly...it has to be the mold that is defective or they dont let the wheel cool down when it comes out of the hot mold.😁👍
I’ve witnessed it all. Bent axles, warped wheels, excess mould flashing, insufficient axle clamping in the chassis, body mould flashing digging into the wheel….
Excellent video. Of Johnny Lightnings, it easier to remove hub cap by supporting wheel against something and push that cap from behind as there is opening on those wheels. That way you don't scratch anything. As a support I usually use piece of plywood so it doesn't damage wheel either.
@@ScaleRacingChannel I use small flat screwdriver to push that cap out. This method has it's risks tho, if cap doesn't want to break free then it's best to leave it. Usually they do detach pretty easily but I also have managed to mess one wheel completely, luckily that car was going to be wheel swap fodder anyway so no big deal. My fastest JL, purple Challenger isn't treated in any way. It's just fast as it is. Like you said.
I already did last night after seeing video!!!!! I did Tooned Batmobile and NEW 2022 cupcake cars. I found out that my breakfast bar is not that level... LOL...
@@Pintony1 that’s awesome, glad it helped you out! Try to find one of the Goodyear F-150’s on the pegs. You’ll be happy with how it turns out. Also, the new Luke Skywalker from the Mandalorian series is metal on metal construction. Worth a try!
@@ScaleRacingChannel yes i have found it sometimes work s better than graphite on some cars. Dont know why. Still testing. Also do you ever race Jada speed racer cars ?
@@ScaleRacingChannel yes they are 1/55 scale but fit on the track. they have plastic base. They run pretty good. The Mach-5 , Black tiger and Grx are fast. They are a litle pricey now on ebay. I collected a while ago before prices went through the roof. But they are good to race.
Love this well done video Brandon. I use a polished chrome plate steel to test roll my cars for perfect roll out. Love your idea of your vibrating tooth brush to vibrate the graphite down into the axles. I will Def try that. I will Def put some airline tubing over the end of the steel part of the electric tooth brush end. I have been looking at my electric tooth for brush for awhile hahaha thanks for the push Buddy:)
Once I get the graphite shook off, I usually roll mine on our granite counter top. It’s pretty smooth and flat. Good tip on the plate! Some R/C nitro fuel line would probably slip nicely over the toothbrush shaft to help protect the wheel. It’s a really light touch, I don’t think it harms the wheel tho.
Definitely more extensive, probably not worth doing on a $1 Nerve Hammer. But if you have some higher profile builds you are working, it is something to consider. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Brandon for another awesome video. I really appreciate you showing us the ins and outs for making our cars faster, I definitely look forward to seeing more like this in the near future?
Graphite almost always gives you the best wheel spin. Oil can free up a wheel, but you have to be careful that you use a synthetic, non penetrating oil. Otherwise it could gum up the works over time.
Very good my friend well instructed clean and precise grade A that is quite a difference that green car lost by 2 full cat links then won by 4 car links I'd say that's well worth the time put into the working very nice. Great video thx for sharing.
Thank you for your time and what info you can help with that’s what it’s about help each other get faster and make this awesome little sport we have enjoyable for all .Any chance you could do a video on a mod car that would be awesome for the newbies out there but I love your racing you have to
Thank you for making this video. I collect these cars and will soon get into racing with my neighbor. I own over 20,000 Hotwheels and will need to find some like yours to race.
The racing is very addictive, and if you can share the experience with a friend, so much the better! If you have 20k, I imagine you have quite a few of the heavy hitters in there waiting to hit the track. Have fun!
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thank you for your reply. Now I need to ask my wife which boxes she has them all packed up in my shop. Maybe I will just buy some new ones. Might easier than going through a hundred boxes. Haha.
A good question and It really depends. The Nerve Hammer was just an arbitrary choice for the video, but is limited on weight since it has a plastic body. With that being said, many FTE cars are plastic/metal as well. And they suffer the same quality issues as all the rest of the HW cars. So it is possible that you will find one that does really well that would challenge or possibly beat this worked Nerve Hammer. But I would put my money on this worked nerve Hammer over a straight out of the package FTE. Unless you are talking about a FTE Way 2 Fast, Cadillac V16, or Cadillac Escalade.
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thanks for the reply. I hope you can answer a couple more questions. Our local hobby diecast store is hosting downhill racers. short track 30 feet. Ive never done it before but the shop owner has been letting me test cars against his to find my faster cars. Rule for boxstock is dry lube only and car has to be unopened. I saw a video about trueing the wheels and the right type of graphite. I just didnt know whether to start with a FTE or if it really didnt matter. Would larger diameter wheels make a difference since they would have less revolutions (less axle friction). Any other tips would be great and thank you!
I got mine from 3D Botmaker back when he was printing and selling parts. He no longer makes them, but Slanman Customs on Facebook has them available. Thanks for watching!
You can get 15-20 competitive runs after a graphite application. The one good thing is, when you start seeing the speed drop off a little, a quick application to the outsides of the wheel hub is all it takes to get it back.
Have to state .. that I see two major flaws ... in this video. Always roll cars on a glass or mirror surface. Roll test on wood, has imperfect surface, which can " jam " wheel and cause it to curve. Second, using the vibrating toothbrush ( metal ) is putting dents in to wheel side wall. When racing, the dents, will rub against track wall. Thx Voxxer Racing
Rolling on glass is an excellent tip. I usually roll them on my granite countertop, but the wood is smooth enough for demonstration purposes. I put very light pressure on the wheel when using the toothbrush. I haven’t witnessed it leaving any dents in the wheel. It’s a very light touch!
Is the Max V a faster graphite? You had said you use the Pinewood...and if there's still an issue than you add the Max V.. why not use the Max V all the time?
Max V has molybdenum as an additive. I have moved away from Derby Car Supply and have been using XLR8 instead. It is a non-moly dust that is cut very fine. I like using it in the outer hub because it falls down into place better than the rest. This in conjunction with Max V on the inner hub seems to net best results for me on this track, at least.
@@billblaze752 the moly seems to make it stick to the surface a little better, which is why I like it at the friction point between the wheel and chassis. The non moly seems to give a better spin on the axle. With that being said, if the non-moly dust won’t settle down a wheel that buzzes a little, the Max V usually gets rid of it.
I have not personally. WD40 is a penetrating oil, I advise against using those types of oils due to the fact that they tend to leech natural oil out of the plastics. Things may get gummed up over time. Have you used it?
It refers to the Faster Than Ever branded cars available by Hot Wheels back then. They came with nickel plated axles and the copper colored open hole 5 spoke wheel. Welcome to the channel!
@@ScaleRacingChannel I didn’t know that. I just buy them by the box full every year and don’t even look at them. I might have to do that from now on. Thank you very much.
I've seen my share of "how to dust your wheels" videos, but--never have I learned more about so many different wheel types, brands of diecast, and layers of lube application. Inner hub flash? When you spoke about that I grabbed desk cars and tried to find the telltale jumping as the wheel spun! Outer hub flash, most everyone spots that quickly, but wow, did I learn!
Great inclusion of Johnny Lightning and their quirks, both in racing and prep--I watch Elevation Diecast's show where JL features very regularly, so that portion of the show had me paying attention for sure!
Hmmm, "Chekhov's Axle Tool" in this episode. It was shown along with all the other supplies and gear, but not demonstrated. Would like to have seen just what that tool achieves and the process to get there. That aside, superb job!!
Thankyou for watching, hopefully you can use some of these techniques to gain speed!
The axle tool is something I really don’t use much. It is probably more useful with the older Redlines, of which I don’t own many.
I have asthma and I never would have thought about the graphite in my lungs thank you
I would definitely wear some kind of N95 mask then. For GRAPHITE. Lol
It's surely a smart idea to use a Hotwheel with a plastic body and die-cast base to begin with.
Good afternoon my friend. I can't thank you enough for this phenomenal tutorial. It has been beneficial to me and my cars. Outstanding Brandon. Outstanding. Again, thank you.
So glad to hear from you and the vid helped you out!
Great video Brandon, I definitely learned quite a bit from this and I should have better results. I'm excited to give it a try. I always dislike getting the cars dirty with graphite but you were able to apply it much cleaner than I've been able to. I'll follow your technique and keep them cleaner. Thanks again!
Thanks Michael, let me know how it works out for you!
Super great video. I’m a newbie to the world of racing die-cast. This info is soooooooo helpful.
Thank you, friend. Hopefully this will help in your quest for speed!
Well done Brandon. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Bo!
I dig getting rid of the flash never thought about that I'm more of a collector so this was informative
Just in case you dip into the racing side of things, this should help you out a little!
Excellent tips n tricks! Thank you so much for making a Very Informative video. I wish i had known all these tricks n tips when I had started....it would have saved me so much money spent on items I didnt need!
Glad to see you did Mainline axles...JL axles ( I still dont understand the black ice formula) n also the laserwheels! In fact I just finally broke down n bought some laserwheels after watchin you, Red Pill, BLR, Matt man race them. Hopefully I have good luck with them!
I wish you would have done how you dry lube FTE's. But I guess that could be another video! Thanks again for all the hard work and the video....Much Appreciated! Hopefully I will git faster after your tips!
Thank you Gene! This is just a starting point for those who are completely new to racing. Everybody has their own technique, and I totally support experimenting with different methods. Proofs in the pudding, right?
Laser Wheels need lots of dust, at least they do in my experience. Good luck, they can be fast!
FTE’s I will hit with graphite the same way I did these cars. If they still resonate after dusting, I use just a small amount of liquid dry lube on the inner hub and let dry.
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thanks Brandon. Nvr used black ice...dont know the formula or where to obtain.
Good Luck on the track!
Awesome video! I need to get one of those toothbrushes, or something similar. That thing really works the graphite down in there. Thank you for making this!
It works surprisingly well! Thanks for watching!
@@ScaleRacingChannel Brandon...what brand toothbrush is that? Cuz when i took one of my old ones apart...it didnt look like that!!
@@PoBoyRacing80 Oral B. It was my son’s, had Darth Vader on it or something. 😂
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thanks Brandon! Really appreciate it! Take Care!
Super informative. Thank you 👍🏻
Thank you for watching, hopefully this will help in your quest for speed.
Excellent, thank you!
You’re very welcome!
Awesome advice thank you
Big fan of you and i love your content
Thank you!
Awesome that's exactly what I needed to know and see I appreciate it
Hopefully this will help up your game a little. Thanks for watching!
Thankyou for all your help and assistance
Glad to help, my friend!
Great descriptive idea
Good info, I’ve also watched Red Pills video prior to this one. I haven’t used any graphite on any cars yet. I’ll be sending a car in for a race this summer. See what I can get out of that one.
It definitely makes a difference. I almost hate sending cars down the track unprepped anymore. Good luck in your racing!
thanks a lot!! this helped me so much
Glad to help, thanks for watching!
Great video!!!
Thankyou for watching!
Whoa!!! That was really impressive! And I’m talking about how much the graphite made the green car faster. Was not talking about the 2 duds you opened up with the running wheels 🤣🤣
95% of the time, dust will make marked improvements over the cars without prep. Recently I have seen a few castings run relatively fast with smooth wheel-spin right out of the package. Apply graphite and those same cars either don’t improve, or slow down slightly. My theory there is that they may have some oil residue from the manufacturing process which helps it run good initially. But if you put graphite on this oil, it tends to slow it down. Definitely more evident on these lighter castings.
Great job Brandon! I’m inspired to try something different. I enjoyed your fresh perspective and colorful clips. Your diligence is rewarded. Race On Bro ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Thank-you Bobby! Try to bring a little humor into a rather droll job!
Great tutorial! Very informative. I will definitely enjoy making that annoying sound for my wife 😅
Haha, she will love you for it!
@@ScaleRacingChannel just ordered a 10 pack. So I will hide the ones not used because she will try to throw it away the moment I start clinking away 😂
Well done, I think you have done a great job putting this vid together!
Always interesting to see the small tweaks, and tools we come up with to try and make life easy and get the best results!
Learn something new every day!
As you show in your video, across the different makes/years etc one may need to adapt to get the best out of a particular set of wheels. Certainly is a great challenge!
Cheers again!
Thank-you Marc D! You bring up a good point, this method works well, but sometimes different wheels prefer different treatment!
Very nice video! Where will I find the different classes and their rules? Happy New Year!
Happy New Year, my friend!
There is unfortunately no “set in stone” rule book or class designation. Most times, a track will advertise a mail in race and set the rules in their race announcement. Typically tracks will give 3-4 month advance notice of a race to allow participants to build the car, if necessary.
As of right now, the 70g weight seems to be the norm for a lightweight modified car. While the heavyweight classes typically have no limit.
Be sure to register on redlinederby.com to be in the know for future race events!
Awesome video, thanks for the advice. Is the black ice a combination of the 3 in one PTFE and graphite dust? Thanks!
Yes it is.
Thanks for watching!
Sir love what you showing us💯 I'm new to the racing world, I see you showing 3 different graphics ..one was black ice. more info please...409 Diecast racing 😎🍻
Thank you for tuning in!
Black Ice is 3in1 PTFE mixed with Derby Car Supply graphite mixed 20:1 approx. I don’t really use this formulation much any more with exception of really poor rolling Johnny Lightning’s, and even still it won’t make chicken salad out of chicken poo. 😂
Currently I use XLR8 and Pinewood pro graphites, and if the wheels still resonate after that I will hit them with Max V.
I have fixed many cars with this problem, take the body off and crimp the axle holding tabs with pliers, you will find out that this car is exceptionally fast compared to a stock one with wobbly axles
They can absolutely be fixed, but on a mainline car like this I usually don’t take them apart to fix unless I plan on modding them. Just my personal preference. Thanks for commenting and watching!
Great video. Well done.
Do u have any Tipps for choosing a casting? What is better? Metal on Metal, Metal Base with plastic body or metal body and plastic base?
Weight, wheel track, wheelbase, wheels, and a straight roll.
Weight: the heavier, usually the better.
Wheel track: same width front and rear. I have never found a fast car that had a narrower front track.
Wheelbase: the longer the better. More stability.
Wheels: tall diameter and skinny. Tall means lower RPM, therefore less resistance where the wheel comes in contact with the axle. Skinny means less resistance between the wheel and the track.
If you can find all of those qualities in a casting, you have a good chance with it. The 09 F-150’s have most of those covered, and that’s why they do well, even with a plastic chassis. Construction doesn’t really matter much, but metal/metal will almost always be heavier. More mass, more potential energy.
The older HW gold Hotones and Ultrahots used thinner axles, usually resulting in lower rolling resistance.
I have had success with almost all wheel varieties with exception of HW trap 5’s, and any wheel that has a tread moulded into the outer edges.
If you have any more questions, ask away!
Nice work. I actually use isopropyl alcohol (as high % as you can get, but 91% works well) - 3 parts to one part graphite - in a mini oiler. Shake it up and put one or two drops in the center hub and it will travel down the axle, coat the inner wheel, and coat the inner hub as well as the free-spinning axle inside the chassis (if you're not drilling and removing the wheels). Work it in by rolling back and forth, let dry (only takes a few minutes), tap out the extra graphite, and reapply if necessary. Way faster with less effort and less mess. I haven't applied dry graphite since. Warning: The Iso WILL remove the chrome on your wheels.
I have a few substances besides graphite that need an alcohol as the vehicle for application. I look forward to trying them out using that method.
Thank you for your input!
Nice video. It is always interesting to see how different people do their wheels with graphite. I have watched about every one of them I could find. Always good for new racers to learn what can work. I have never heard of black ice though.
Yes, this vid probably doesn’t have much to offer the hardened pros, there’s only so many ways to add graphite to wheels! Hopefully the new guys into the hobby get some benefit from it though!
You sir have earned a new sub🤝🏻 Also I've seen alot of people use graphite but what's your thoughts on using silicone spray? I've seen a few people swear by it and say it's better than graphite plus less mess. And lord knows my gf would appreciate me not making a mess😅 already on her bad side because I had my irl car tuned and it sounds like an ak47 so die cast racing is a new hobby. Long time collector but new to making them fast and customizing.
Thank you and welcome to the channel!
I personally do not have much experience with a silicone that gave me good results. Not to say there isn’t a product out there that gets the job done. Many of the guys that race in Puerto Rico use the silicone… if you find something good, let me know.
@@ScaleRacingChannel I'm from the states, Kentucky to be specific so I'm sure I can use some redneck ingenuity to complete my build😂😂 first car modding so wish me luck (It's a 2009 C6 ZR-1 FTE i found unopened at a yard sale🤌🏻))
Thank you my friend for the video , now im going to work the wheels of my cars like a PRO
💪🏻😎
Go forth my friend and find you some speed!
Sometimes its not the axle thats bent,many occations when i purchase a HW car,its the wheels are wobbly...it has to be the mold that is defective or they dont let the wheel cool down when it comes out of the hot mold.😁👍
I’ve witnessed it all. Bent axles, warped wheels, excess mould flashing, insufficient axle clamping in the chassis, body mould flashing digging into the wheel….
Another awesome video! Keep up the great content good Sir!
Thank you! Lots more coming, stay tuned!
Excellent video. Of Johnny Lightnings, it easier to remove hub cap by supporting wheel against something and push that cap from behind as there is opening on those wheels. That way you don't scratch anything. As a support I usually use piece of plywood so it doesn't damage wheel either.
That’s an excellent idea, thank-you for sharing! I forgot the JL wheels have the two large openings in the wheel...
@@ScaleRacingChannel I use small flat screwdriver to push that cap out. This method has it's risks tho, if cap doesn't want to break free then it's best to leave it. Usually they do detach pretty easily but I also have managed to mess one wheel completely, luckily that car was going to be wheel swap fodder anyway so no big deal.
My fastest JL, purple Challenger isn't treated in any way. It's just fast as it is. Like you said.
@@NorthernRoadsRacing I have cracked a JL wheel in the past while trying to pop the caps out. I guess old age of the plastic made it brittle.
Awesome vid!!!
Thank you! Now go forth and start dusting some wheels….
I already did last night after seeing video!!!!! I did Tooned Batmobile and NEW 2022 cupcake cars. I found out that my breakfast bar is not that level... LOL...
They both turned out GREAT!!! TY 4 posting this vidio
@@Pintony1 that’s awesome, glad it helped you out! Try to find one of the Goodyear F-150’s on the pegs. You’ll be happy with how it turns out.
Also, the new Luke Skywalker from the Mandalorian series is metal on metal construction. Worth a try!
I got 2 09 f150 today. GOODYEAR... Cjeck out the WHITE Nissan R390 GTI.... Leave blue on peg....
LOL!!!!!
Great information and demonstration. Have you ever tried sprayway silicone ?
Thank your watching! No, I have not. I have found that dry lube seems to do the best in terms of wheelspin and plastic longevity. Have you used it?
@@ScaleRacingChannel yes i have found it sometimes work s better than graphite on some cars. Dont know why. Still testing. Also do you ever race Jada speed racer cars ?
@@briancreacy7310 interesting.
I haven’t run any Jada cars, have you?
@@ScaleRacingChannel yes they are 1/55 scale but fit on the track. they have plastic base. They run pretty good. The Mach-5 , Black tiger and Grx are fast. They are a litle pricey now on ebay. I collected a while ago before prices went through the roof. But they are good to race.
Love this well done video Brandon. I use a polished chrome plate steel to test roll my cars for perfect roll out. Love your idea of your vibrating tooth brush to vibrate the graphite down into the axles. I will Def try that. I will Def put some airline tubing over the end of the steel part of the electric tooth brush end. I have been looking at my electric tooth for brush for awhile hahaha thanks for the push Buddy:)
Once I get the graphite shook off, I usually roll mine on our granite counter top. It’s pretty smooth and flat. Good tip on the plate!
Some R/C nitro fuel line would probably slip nicely over the toothbrush shaft to help protect the wheel. It’s a really light touch, I don’t think it harms the wheel tho.
@@ScaleRacingChannel yep the soft Dubro nitro fuel line would be perfect for that tooth brush.
Dremelling out underneath Nerve Hammer's spoiler would make it faster too, but is obviously more extensive
Definitely more extensive, probably not worth doing on a $1 Nerve Hammer. But if you have some higher profile builds you are working, it is something to consider. Thanks for watching!
Will dry lube work on toy grade cars with Plastic gears and metal axles like like Radio Shack RC cars
It is extremely thin for use on gears. I like Tamiya’s Cera grease in applications like that. It doesn’t take much, but it works excellently!
Even the FTE nervehammers have this rub problem
Where do you race the cars? At die-cast shop or someone’s garage?
In my garage at home!
Bubbles!!!
Thanks Brandon for another awesome video.
I really appreciate you showing us the ins and outs for making our cars faster, I definitely look forward to seeing more like this in the near future?
Thank you for watching! I hope this helps you find some untapped speed.
If there is something in specific you’d like to see, please let me know!
What is the difference between using graphite or some kind of light light oil for the axle
Graphite almost always gives you the best wheel spin. Oil can free up a wheel, but you have to be careful that you use a synthetic, non penetrating oil. Otherwise it could gum up the works over time.
@@ScaleRacingChannel thanks
Very good my friend well instructed clean and precise grade A that is quite a difference that green car lost by 2 full cat links then won by 4 car links I'd say that's well worth the time put into the working very nice. Great video thx for sharing.
Thanks Robert! I was not expecting that much of a gap, honestly. Definitely worth the effort!
I know you're a diecast guy, But do you think the graphite would also work on slot cars, or even model cars for a smoother quicker roll.
Indeed, it will work on just about everything.
15:03 music to their ears, to be sure. ;)
What happened to the rematch where you time the graphite treated car?
28:10
Thank you for your time and what info you can help with that’s what it’s about help each other get faster and make this awesome little sport we have enjoyable for all .Any chance you could do a video on a mod car that would be awesome for the newbies out there but I love your racing you have to
I’m glad to be able to contribute and pass what little knowledge I have on to my friends!
I can definitely do a mod video, stay tuned!
Thank you for making this video. I collect these cars and will soon get into racing with my neighbor. I own over 20,000 Hotwheels and will need to find some like yours to race.
The racing is very addictive, and if you can share the experience with a friend, so much the better!
If you have 20k, I imagine you have quite a few of the heavy hitters in there waiting to hit the track. Have fun!
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thank you for your reply. Now I need to ask my wife which boxes she has them all packed up in my shop. Maybe I will just buy some new ones. Might easier than going through a hundred boxes. Haha.
I have to do that
Give it a try, you will like the results!
Would a "box stock" FTE model be faster than the prepped model you did?
A good question and It really depends. The Nerve Hammer was just an arbitrary choice for the video, but is limited on weight since it has a plastic body.
With that being said, many FTE cars are plastic/metal as well. And they suffer the same quality issues as all the rest of the HW cars. So it is possible that you will find one that does really well that would challenge or possibly beat this worked Nerve Hammer. But I would put my money on this worked nerve Hammer over a straight out of the package FTE.
Unless you are talking about a FTE Way 2 Fast, Cadillac V16, or Cadillac Escalade.
@@ScaleRacingChannel Thanks for the reply. I hope you can answer a couple more questions. Our local hobby diecast store is hosting downhill racers. short track 30 feet. Ive never done it before but the shop owner has been letting me test cars against his to find my faster cars. Rule for boxstock is dry lube only and car has to be unopened. I saw a video about trueing the wheels and the right type of graphite. I just didnt know whether to start with a FTE or if it really didnt matter. Would larger diameter wheels make a difference since they would have less revolutions (less axle friction). Any other tips would be great and thank you!
Where did you get this? I can't find it on eBay.
14:17
Derby Supply can be found at Hobby Lobby or Michael’s.
However, I have found XLR8 graphite and Max V to be the ones yielding best results.
@@ScaleRacingChannel oh okay
What kind of oil is in the black ice?
It is 3 in One Multi Purpose PTFE lubricant. Easily found at any of your big name hardware stores.
Where did you get the stands for the finish line?
I got mine from 3D Botmaker back when he was printing and selling parts. He no longer makes them, but Slanman Customs on Facebook has them available.
Thanks for watching!
@@ScaleRacingChannel thanks!
Is the graphite will last forever, if not then how long will it last?
You can get 15-20 competitive runs after a graphite application. The one good thing is, when you start seeing the speed drop off a little, a quick application to the outsides of the wheel hub is all it takes to get it back.
@@ScaleRacingChannel is any type of graphite allowed?
Have to state .. that I see two major flaws ... in this video. Always roll cars on a glass or mirror surface. Roll test on wood, has imperfect surface, which can " jam " wheel and cause it to curve. Second, using the vibrating toothbrush ( metal ) is putting dents in to wheel side wall. When racing, the dents, will rub against track wall. Thx Voxxer Racing
Rolling on glass is an excellent tip. I usually roll them on my granite countertop, but the wood is smooth enough for demonstration purposes.
I put very light pressure on the wheel when using the toothbrush. I haven’t witnessed it leaving any dents in the wheel. It’s a very light touch!
Good Points Jon! Thanks! The glass/mirror is an excellent tip!
Is the Max V a faster graphite? You had said you use the Pinewood...and if there's still an issue than you add the Max V.. why not use the Max V all the time?
Max V has molybdenum as an additive. I have moved away from Derby Car Supply and have been using XLR8 instead. It is a non-moly dust that is cut very fine. I like using it in the outer hub because it falls down into place better than the rest. This in conjunction with Max V on the inner hub seems to net best results for me on this track, at least.
@@ScaleRacingChannel molybdenum.. why is that not good?
@@billblaze752 the moly seems to make it stick to the surface a little better, which is why I like it at the friction point between the wheel and chassis. The non moly seems to give a better spin on the axle. With that being said, if the non-moly dust won’t settle down a wheel that buzzes a little, the Max V usually gets rid of it.
@@billblaze752 good questions, BTW!
@@billblaze752 ultimately, you need to do a lot of testing with different methods, because all tracks are different.
whats that car called
That is the Hot Wheels Nerve Hammer.
Thanks for watching!
Have you ever tried WD40?
I have not personally. WD40 is a penetrating oil, I advise against using those types of oils due to the fact that they tend to leech natural oil out of the plastics. Things may get gummed up over time. Have you used it?
What is the FTE that you keep mentioning in the comments? Awesome video by the way and I just subscribed. Thanks in advance.
It refers to the Faster Than Ever branded cars available by Hot Wheels back then. They came with nickel plated axles and the copper colored open hole 5 spoke wheel.
Welcome to the channel!
@@ScaleRacingChannel I didn’t know that. I just buy them by the box full every year and don’t even look at them. I might have to do that from now on. Thank you very much.