Hello! First of all awesome videos. I noticed some details that if changed may improve your process. First one you already talk about it, pins doesnt need to be super tight in tolerances. Second, you dont need to push them so deep in the mdf. Remember they are just locating pins, they will do small to no force. Final tip, use 2 pins. 1 pin and the bolt will have some play and in this application might not be that bad but still will make it plug and play with no need to use the rule to square them. Maybe one more, you can have the cnc make those pin and bolt holes even using the same mdf board modified to put all stocks in a specific location. Less effort. Hope this helps. :)
Thanks Jaime! The two pins is nice if they're added to the blocks on the cnc instead of by drill press from an accuracy stand point. I like the idea though! Thanks
@@AustinConrad give it a try. I use that to do double side machining (machining a part on both sides top and bottom). Thanks to that I was able to make a mechanical keyboard case with decent resolution and tolerances as well as keycaps xD
Can you share and details of your hold design process? What software? we have a cnc at the makerspace here and I'm keen to make some holds but would rather not start from scratch.
@ejl74 the backside will still get water and slowly rot out the hold if exposed to water unless it's sealed. Especially with the textured paint on the wall digging into it.
Just found your channel, good stuff never used a wood hold before, looks nice, suggestion for your fixture s most use 2 dowels to keep from movement the bolt just adds down pressure. Good luck hope I get to try one soon.
I hope this comment gets to you, but I have a few questions about your programming. I am too using my shapeoko to make climbing holds and am running into a few issues on setting up multiple holds to mill like you have here. Any advice would be great!
The cnc doesn't have multiple work offsets. So to do Multiple parts, you need a fixture to accurately locate them and then program all of them with a single work coordinate. Just need to be sure to tell the cam other parts are there or it will run into other parts.
I have a question, why paint or coat them? the purpose of using wood to machine holds is that their texture without anything is the best for preserving skin (that is why fingerboards are kept raw finish except for sanding)
That is true. I have noticed that the raw wood finish texture is much nicer than the polyurethane however these will be outside instead of on an indoor wall & I need the weather proofing so I'm stuck with the smooth plastic texture.
I ended up doing it by hand so I dont have any plans yet. I'm working on a build list of parts used. I'll add it to the description when I get it done.
Been watching all your trials and tribulations on these, glad to see you nailed it at the end. I would also like to know what router spindle your using, my two old Porter Cable ones are getting a bit old and too expensive now?
Somewhat. I would say 15 degrees F above the ambient temp. That's also another reason why I have such a large enclosure. More air takes longer to heat and helps keep things manageable.
Just stumbled across your channel yesterday - love your content! Hopefully the algorithm starts throwing some love your way - you deserve a lot more views! I have the Onefinity CNC with the Makita router. Did I hear you say in another vid you're using 3/8" shank router bits with a modified router?
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Hello! First of all awesome videos. I noticed some details that if changed may improve your process.
First one you already talk about it, pins doesnt need to be super tight in tolerances.
Second, you dont need to push them so deep in the mdf. Remember they are just locating pins, they will do small to no force.
Final tip, use 2 pins. 1 pin and the bolt will have some play and in this application might not be that bad but still will make it plug and play with no need to use the rule to square them.
Maybe one more, you can have the cnc make those pin and bolt holes even using the same mdf board modified to put all stocks in a specific location. Less effort.
Hope this helps. :)
Thanks Jaime! The two pins is nice if they're added to the blocks on the cnc instead of by drill press from an accuracy stand point. I like the idea though! Thanks
@@AustinConrad give it a try. I use that to do double side machining (machining a part on both sides top and bottom). Thanks to that I was able to make a mechanical keyboard case with decent resolution and tolerances as well as keycaps xD
@@jaimerodriguez3864 nice!
You can never have enough clamps. Those turned out nice.
Oh ya, thanks!
Can you share and details of your hold design process? What software? we have a cnc at the makerspace here and I'm keen to make some holds but would rather not start from scratch.
Also, why brush polyurethane on the back of the hold?
@ejl74 the backside will still get water and slowly rot out the hold if exposed to water unless it's sealed. Especially with the textured paint on the wall digging into it.
Just found your channel, good stuff never used a wood hold before, looks nice, suggestion for your fixture s most use 2 dowels to keep from movement the bolt just adds down pressure. Good luck hope I get to try one soon.
Thanks!
I hope this comment gets to you, but I have a few questions about your programming. I am too using my shapeoko to make climbing holds and am running into a few issues on setting up multiple holds to mill like you have here. Any advice would be great!
The cnc doesn't have multiple work offsets. So to do Multiple parts, you need a fixture to accurately locate them and then program all of them with a single work coordinate. Just need to be sure to tell the cam other parts are there or it will run into other parts.
@@AustinConrad so you do use fusion 360?
@@jacobeidson8610 yep. 360 for all of it because I can't afford something like mastercam
I have a question, why paint or coat them? the purpose of using wood to machine holds is that their texture without anything is the best for preserving skin (that is why fingerboards are kept raw finish except for sanding)
That is true. I have noticed that the raw wood finish texture is much nicer than the polyurethane however these will be outside instead of on an indoor wall & I need the weather proofing so I'm stuck with the smooth plastic texture.
@@AustinConrad ok, I get it. yeah, for soutside, you definitely need the coating
can we get some info on that shapeoko enclosure?? looks great. CAD files maybe?
I ended up doing it by hand so I dont have any plans yet. I'm working on a build list of parts used. I'll add it to the description when I get it done.
Been watching all your trials and tribulations on these, glad to see you nailed it at the end. I would also like to know what router spindle your using, my two old Porter Cable ones are getting a bit old and too expensive now?
Thanks! It's just the stock router that comes with the Shapeoko Pro from Carbide 3D.
Does it get hot inside the enclose while in use?
Somewhat. I would say 15 degrees F above the ambient temp. That's also another reason why I have such a large enclosure. More air takes longer to heat and helps keep things manageable.
Why use that looks like to me construction wood beams?
Completely off topic but I'm looking for the marker you talked about using for your wood and can't find it 😟 it was green and black
Haha, ya I'm gonna be honest, I have no idea wtf you're talking about. Wanna be a bit more specific?
Just stumbled across your channel yesterday - love your content! Hopefully the algorithm starts throwing some love your way - you deserve a lot more views! I have the Onefinity CNC with the Makita router. Did I hear you say in another vid you're using 3/8" shank router bits with a modified router?
Thanks! That you did. And it's been great so far.
i’ll buy some from you
Instead of metal dowels, try wood "Fluted Dowel Pins"
Have fun..
Thanks
Get yourself an actual mask for crying out loud. That pile if junk you have isn't doing anything for you. Get a 3m half mask and some 2091 filters.