Thanks russell hansen. Great to hear from you guys again. If you have any more great tips like the last one, let me know. jay@dirtfarmerjay.com. Best, DFJ
Jay, a couple of points from a truck driver: 1) You want a minimum of two revolutions of strap wrapped around the drum - if the strap gets wet it can slip if the load shifts without two revolutions on the drum. 2) That loose flapping tail of the strap is called a dog ear and it is against the law. Very dangerous and is considered an unsecure load. What you showed is going to be left up to interpretation by law enforcement. If I was to use that method, I would still take a zip tie and secure it back onto the strap - zip ties are cheap. 3) The C-clamp - Negative! That would be considered an attachment point and is regulated bylaw - also the carabiner, get it gone. DOT regulates the equipment to be used to secure a load, and climbing equipment is not in the book for securing loads regardless of it weight rating. You take an authorized strap and attach it straight to an authorized attachment point. The biggest take away I want you and your viewers to take away from this is - don't get creative when securing a load. Even those two cleaver chaps at the home improvement store - those straps must be rated. If they are doing this job for hire - they are held to the same laws as a truck driver is with the securement of that load. They are required to have clearly marked load ratings on the straps they use. If you are doing business in commerce you are held to all the laws when it comes to load securement. Even private Joe hauling his motor cycle or race car needs to step up their game and use rated straps with proper attachment points that are also rated for their needs. Good straps are not that much more in price, and it lets you and everyone else know the load is secure. 4) Check your load in the first 100 miles after you secured it down and start on a trip - it is not only smart to do, but is required by law. Check the load every time you stop after that. I hauled flat beds for a number of years and loading and unloading was my Zen time. I worked where I even got to load and unload most of what I hauled. Even tarping an un-tarping a load became an art form for me. Most drivers want to drop and hook - not me. I want to control every aspect of a load I can - and get paid for it too.
This is GREAT information Chuck Howard. Thanks for sharing with our viewer family. And also, thanks for being one of those who help transport items to those who need them. Best to you! DFJ
@@iceroadtrucker2008 Leave more strap between the ratchet and the other hook when you first start ratcheting so that it has to rotate at least twice before tightening up.
@@DirtFarmerJay Maybe you should reupload cause this can be dangerous information? guy I work with used this and im sure other people are breaking the law because of this video.
I'm sorry but that second "grabber" does not release like yours and I have to fight trying to release that dangerous one at the same time as the easy release bracket, too much trouble, I just grab some rope and I'm done, ( cheaper too)
I HATE the crappy hooks on so many of these. Some are half open so they won't hold or they fall off or they are too small to hook onto anything but themselves.
If you decide to use the to use the C clamp system please put some kind of a safety lanyard to the C clamp. If that C clamp comes loose on the highway you could do some serious damage as it bounces off people’s cars. Just don’t do it.
Kenney, I've be reviewing all the comments one again and came across your comment about the use (or should I say, non-use!) of a C-clamp. Your point is well taken and will in fact be mentioned in a future episode on load securing, and do's and don'ts. That was not good practice on my part (although I use this for a short trip and make sure it is tightened down for the short duration) - but this could lead to some bad situations as you mention. Again, thanks for the nudge. Best Regards, DFJ
We all saw this however, you missed the common sense aspect, he showed a rusty old clamp which won’t vibrate loose and be a projectile on the hwy for tailgaters. 😁
Thank you so much. I was pulling my hair out trying to put two of them back together. You made is simple enough for me to catch it and even understand (somewhat) how they work. Thanks so much
Here is a tip for you. Don't insert the strap the way you are doing it with the lever open. You should ratchet the drum until the slot is perpendicular to the automatic pawl/spring catch/release tab, then you shut the lever. This makes it so you can lace the strap through the drum and not have to thread it back through the lever. Two actions instead of three. Makes it easier when it is cold and with gloves on.
Aztec Warrior - thanks! We've had other viewers write in and counsel the same thing. I'm adopting your way and will feature it in an upcoming episode. Thanks for watching, and taking time to write - best regards, DFJ
Just fyi, your ratchet strap is not at its full strength without at least 3 complete turns around the drum. You are creating a tensionless anchor by rotating the strap around the drum.
Lasr year I bought 5 sheets of 5/8 “plywood to make hurricane shutters. With 2 rotator tears on each shoulder and age 85, Lowes loaded the stack of ply into my short bed F150. They threw the 20 lb bag of bird food on top. It stuck out a bout 2 ft past the lowered edge of the tailgate. At the 2 nd stop light I heard a big whump. The entire stack with bird food still on top was in the middle of the busy intersection as I got the green light. What to do now? I could move single sheets of the 5/8 ply back to the truck one at a time and get each sheet back aboard. The Mercedes behind me at the intersection was stuck. Two young black men about maybe 18 or 20 were weed wacking an empty lot at the intersection . Heavy traffic behind me and oncoming. The bundle of ply and bird seed landed completely intact, edges perfectly aligned. The two young men dropped the weeders and rushed to the pile of ply. They each grabbed an end of the bundle with bird seed in the middle and tossed it back onto the truck bed. I said thanks, “You guys are my guardian angels today. “. Gave each a $20 and they raced back off to their wacking. I came home and installed 4 hooks on the tailgate for Bungie cords or ratchet straps. Bought 4 12ft orange ratchet straps at Harbor Freight next visit to town. Lesson learned. Learn from other peoples mistakes. Experience is NOT THE BEST TEACHER. It is embarrassing and costly. Listem to MR. JAY…….. JoeB
Joe B, Thanks for sharing your story. Sorry it happened but sounds like you DID have some Guardian Angels around you that day! Congratulations on your 85th birthday!! May God watch over you each and every day. Best, DFJ and Dirt Farmer Maggie
Another inexpensive and handy item to prevent the strap contacting and chafing a boat surface or to prevent the strap from being damaged on a sharp edge is to use a pool noodle, cut open lengthwise through the core, and then cut into one-foot lengths.
Count me in on this comment. The most common misuse of a ratchet strap is to feed it with the handle in the open position. I hover between cringing and laughing at people who struggle to put the strap back through the handle when there's no reason you should have to do so in the first place.
Jim Carris, John Ossendorf, and fantasticsound - great insight all of you. I'm so used to doing it that way, that it's become my practice and I don't have any problem threading the strap. Having said that, I've begun work on changing the habit to the way you mentioned as it simply is better and simpler. We have another best tips video coming out (we have had so many people weigh in on this topic with some really great practices). I'll make sure to own up to the misstep and point out the better way. Thanks all for taking time to write! Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay You actually don't have to feed it back through at all. Been using straps probably since they started making them and I never feed mine back for the return trip toward the starting anchor point. I always simply push the strap through leaving the tail toward the anchor point that's holding the ratchet. After I pull the strap through and pull as tight as I can towards the ratchet side, I just start ratcheting and it tightens as tight as a drum. Just make sure the tail is on top, not underneath. Doing it this way your not near as likely to crowd and bind the ratchet. It will release every time. It's essentially the same thing. It just helps keeps everything straight.
@@brighterredneckideas8021 Well said, I've adopted this approach as well because of the feedback and insight of several viewers like you. We'll be updating to this approach in another video coming out shortly. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ
Day before yesterday I saw a beautiful piece of ratchet strapping on the roadside & thought someone's strap had loosed & fell off, so turned around to retrieve it. It was a heavy duty 2 inch yellow strap. I was surprised to see it had ripped apart at the ratchet even though it was brand new. Upon closer examination I discovered it was a 16 foot loose end that must have been dragging & blowing in the wind, until the end flopped under a wheel. When the wheel rolled forward on top of the strap it provided enough tension to RIP this 2,000+ pound test strap apart. I saw the rubber tire tracks on the strap that solved the mystery. LESSON BEING, never neglect securing the loose end of a strap! If it was the primary strap holding the load, it could easily cause a fatal accident if the load fell off resulting in someone behind running over it or died trying to avoid it.😖
Ronald, I've seen the same thing happen, and actually saw a strap, much like what you describe, on one of our roads about 2 weeks ago. It too was snapped in half - evidence of a loose end trailing in the wind and the vehicle running over it. Bad news, for all the reasons you describe. Loose ends can also get wound up in the drive shaft, with very poor outcomes. Indeed, securing the end is just as important as securing the load. In fact, if the end isn't secured properly, then the load isn't secured properly. Thanks for emphasizing that point. Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay I followed a flatbed 18 wheel tractor trailer one day, 70mph, that had a heavy duty chain dragging on the pavement, throwing sparks, near the trailers right side wheels. I couldn't warn the truck driver, he was in the left lane on interstate hwy and I was in the right lane and shy ad afraid to try to ease up on his cabs right window to warn him. I was driving a Greyhound bus. My passengers' and I just had to sit and wait for quite awhile for the drama to happen.. Sure enough, as anticipated,, the chain finally bounced under the dual tandem wheels on the trailer and it wasn't a pretty sight to see and the violent snapping of the chain sounded like a cannon going off needless to say.
@@jerrystevens1865 Wow! That must have been nervewracking. Glad you and the others on the freeway were not hurt. BIG lesson for the driver, hopefully he learned it! Best, DFJ
Great video, but I have to disagree or clarify on 3 points. 1- Laying the strap flat is a mistake when hauling at highway speed. That will allow the wind to turn your strap into a really annoying musical instrument. To avoid vibration put a 1/2 twist in the strap between every contact point with the load. If you're saying "but that will weaken the strap!" you have been misinformed. Tests have shown that no noticeable weakening will occur until significant twisting occurs 2- carabiners. When using a screw gate caribiner be sure the screw is closed under load. This is especially true if the gate has a "keyhole" style retention system rather than the pin and hook style. For my money I'd just go with quick links. The harder steel will retain its shape better than soft aluminum. Nicks and gouges are stress risers that over time will contribute to fatigue and potential failure. Steel is less likely to be nicked. If rust in the threads of the quicklink is a problem spray a bit of WD-40 or dab a bit of antiseize. Even some green thread locker wouldn't be a bad idea. And on that note... 3- WD-40 is not lube. It is a rust preventative. WD stands for Water Displacement. For corrosion to occur four things are required: An anode, a cathode, an electrolyte, and a flow of electrons. WD-40 and most corrosion preventers work by shielding the metal from the electrolytes which are suspended in water. Keeping the water from resting on the metal is the key. So what should you use to lube joints instead? Any decent silicone lubricant will work fine. There are satisfactory products under brands like Liquid Wrench, PB, WD-40, and others. Not the original products of those names, but the brand used for name recognition. Anyway great video, but since this is mostly for DIY noobs I thought I'd better clear up some misconceptions.
WD 40 is only a rust preventative for a short period of time...it works as a solvent and breaks down any lubricants on metal that would shield it from moisture causing more rust damage over the long term. Due to inflation, thats my $ .10 :)
Wow, I have used straps like this for years and feel pretty solid in my capabilities, but still learned a lot. I will be using these tips many times! Thank you!
Again Google is watching me, this video came up right after I got done srtuggling to release a ratchet strap (I was doing it incorrectly). Thanks for this video! Now I know what I am doing and I even tested it out!
I'm another one that has always struggled with these darns crank straps. I especially like the trick on how to secure all the excess strap once the load is secure. That was very kewl. Great job and clear instructions 👍
I'd like to add that if your strap will be in free air as you drive ( like over a tall item) it's actually better to have twists in it to keep it from vibrating.
Thank you so much for this I am a single Lady of 66 years who has to do a lot of stuff alone so use these straps often and yes I have always had a frustrating time with them but thanks too you not any more
I've used a 3/4 inch garden hose, cut it about eight inches then slice a groove in it, slap it over the end of the Angle iron on my trailer to avoid any abrasive edge on the strap. Works great. Stays in place while I'm adjusting the straps with minimal , sometimes zero pressure from the overlying strap.
@@wickedmuffin76fire hose is also good for chain protection. Leave it in hose form, cut into sections and slip over the chain. Chain will not scratch painted surfaces then, if your worried about that.
Do not leave your straps exposed to the sun and other weather conditions it will weaken them over time btw that clamp on your sheet goods is not legal in all states.
Give the strap a twist reduces its strenght....its forbidden in some countries and you can get fined by road authorities for "unsecured load"....be aware...
@@jeanchardonnay5627 it does not reduce the strength. There is a good video where a tester destroys many straps testing this theory. Vibration can be very damaging to the strap, load,and vehicle. It will loosen or cause shifting of the strap or load.
Who ever knew something as simple as a ratchet strap could be so misunderstood? What I learned from your video: Stop storing the straps with the long end rolled onto the crank; instead, start with the strap separated from the crank. ( I've always tried to avoid pulling the strap all the way out of the crank because I was never quiet sure how it was "supposed" to go back in.) This takes me to what I learned from reading through the comments: As you demonstrated in the video, start with the ratchet arm facing away from the load. Next, close the ratchet arm but be sure the slot is in a position to easily insert the strap through from the load facing side and out the other side. Do not pull too much slack out of the strap, you want at least 2 full revolutions of the strap on the drum. You can put a single twist in the strap to reduce wind noise and strap wear. Use only transportation approved fasteners and fasten points.
Excellent! All YT videos should be produced this well: good audio, good video, good content. No cheesy graphics, obnoxious music. Straight and to the point. Liked and subscribed.
Amen to the cheesy music. I appreciate the channels that forego the hard driving metal music intros. The ones I favor just start with content, no flourish.
Good day, thanks for your tutorials, just the C clamp, I don’t like , I’m a truck driver and go 48 states; believe me, have see so many things happen over the road because of a single, even small metal piece on the road, to others behind. Been now for 20 years over the road, I know what and why I mentioned this. God bless you and your family and business.
These all seem to be "good ideas" for those who use a ratchet strap once every year or two. Thank God I learned all these tips and tricks (and many more) by using them daily over the last 50 plus years.
That's a great idea. Don't be surprised when that tip comes up of the upcoming "Best Viewer Ratchet Strap Tips!". We'll be sure to credit you. Best, DFJ
Here's a couple of tips from a long time ratchet strap user: Always have some rubber bands on hand, when you are done using your straps, wind the strap end and store it using rubber bands, this will keep them from getting tangled,( Always store the strap and ratchet separately) When transporting PVC pipe or round objects, wrap your strap around the pipe, when you tighten the ratchet, this will cause the strap to tighten around the pipe, and will keep pieces of pipe from getting loose. From time to time apply some WD 40 to your ratchets, this will keep them operating smoothly. If you are transporting for a long time-take a break and check that your straps are still tight and in the same place where you started!
@@DirtFarmerJay No problem, BTW your advice on purchasing high quality ratchet straps was right on the money. My worst dread was loosing cargo on the road and injuring someone who was behind me!
I haven't been able to find rubber bands big enough for the purpose, but found a container with 20 10-inch bungee cords in it and they work quite well for my 2-inch straps. Now that I've seen this excellent video, I'm going to try the trick at the end to pull the loop through.
@@billnelson3605most truck stops as well as tarp/securement shops will have wide rubber bands that can used to keep straps rolled up when not in use. Might be little big for 1" straps but I use them on my 2" and 4" straps. Keeps them from unwinding from driving vibrations while stored. I like to have my straps rolled tight and keep them tight. Always roll straps with the hooks/chain on the outside. The free end will do way less damage then if you throw the hook/chain end and hit someone.
georgebx - thanks for watching and taking time to write. I appreciate your concern and there's a couple of things to consider when you are using a c-clamp for this purpose. First, how heavy is the load. For a single or few sheets of a sheet good, a well-tightened C-clamp for a moderate distance works for me. Second, I orient the C-clamp as you see it - with the strap going through it in such as way that the clamp is being forced against the edge. If carrying a more significant load, the cross under and over is the way to go is now a go-to approach around here. Thanks for your thoughts, and for being one of our viewer family! Best Regards, DFJ
A C-clamp is NOT A LOAD RATED LOAD DEVICE IT DOES NOT LOCK LIKE THE STRAPS AND CARIBINERS SHOULD NOT BE USED WHERE SAFETY IS A FACTOR OR LOAD SECURMENT !! You should have covered the rating of the straps the size you show are fine for loads you can hand carry any thing you cant carry should have larger wider straps
Sometimes a bent piece of steel is stronger than a cast piece - re: half moon center pieces. Not sure if that principle applies here but just throwing the thought out to you…
It's actually easier to have the ratchet closed and then when u feed the strap through the bottom it goes up in front of the handle and you don't need to feed it through again then just ratchet.
That's very stupid to open the ratched and then fidle the strap through forward and then again through backwards. Much easier is to close the ratched and feed the strap through. You get the same result in one step. 🤣🤣🤣 Simply RTFM before using this straps. 🤭
As an FYI, If you fold closed your handle with the slot facing upward, it is much quicker and easier to feed the loose end strap webbing through the slot, pull slack out and begin ratcheting... No need then to pull one direction and then feed the end back through the handle as it is all ready in place.
😊 thank you soo much! I'm a pretty handy chickie, but these things, sheesh, they have always been an enigma in my family- no one ever knew what tf they were doing. LoL Big ups to you, Good Sir! 👍🏼
Never understood why people insist on passing it back through, Don’t pass it Back through and you can use the tag end of the strap for leverage to tighten. Then when it is time to release the load you grab the tag and rotate the handle to disengage the ratchet, pull the tag end And voila. By passing it back through it is way too difficult to release the strap from the ratchet
@@Cous1nJack I can do the same thing without passing it through though. To each their own. I don’t necessarily think either way is wrong. That’s just the way that works easiest for me and that’s how I always train people to do it.
@@frednot809 l'm a pass it through man, have been for 40 years. I teach all the young people to pass it through. How do you keep both ends in tension with one hand while ratcheting with the other hand with out passing it back through ? Only bent or rusty ratchets are a problem to release if they are not overwound. Pulling the slak tight before starting to ratchet is the only way I know of to always avoid overwinding.
@@johnossendorf9979 If we can agree that you don’t use the tag and to tighten, the way I do it is leave the ratchet open, Bring the tag and threw one time then pull it toward my load, then simply pinch with my other hand, it allows you more revolutions to tighten some thing because you only have one layer of strap instead of two,You can use the tag end for leverage To tighten a load by just grabbing the end and as you pull up it pushes the ratchet to tighten it. Removal is as simple as opening the ratchet and pulling on the tag end, Unrolls the entire ratchet in one movement. I’m not saying the other way is wrong necessarily. But it’s not for me. I truly find it easiest the way I described
Thank you Chuck Howard and DFJ! DFJ thank you for the detail in setting up the strap! I use one at work and have no problem operating it but when I have to put it back together I am usually screwed. Your camera work shows how to do it in detail. Thank you for that!
I have been hauling pallets on a flatbed for a sawmill using much bigger straps. I don't do everything that you do. But I really like your tricks. You gave me a education today and I really appreciate your advice.I found it very helpful and entertaining.
First, the most common mistake I see people make with ratchet straps is front and center on your video. Once you align the slot for easy access, close the handle and you won't have to feed it back through after it exits the slot because it's already there. I cringe and laugh as I watch people struggle to put worn ends back through the handle. It's an unnecessary step. Second, please don't ever demonstrate a ratchet strap on something flimsy such as the tie backs for your pickup's liftgate. I know you said it was just for demonstration but I guarantee you some ignorant person will attempt to use them to tie down a load after seeing your demonstration. Third, I'm happy to see you demonstrating what we call a trucker wrap. Making a loop and then securing it is a very quick and easy way, not only to secure excess strap, but also to release it without twisting. Since the end has no hook on it, you can throw it out and let it unroll. Typically, I take the advice of Mountain Stages, who roll all of their endless straps (ratchet strap with no hooks) and throw them in a huge crate. Additionally, I store my hook straps this way as well. I simply pulled the hook all the way to the ratchet, then use the trucker wrap to roll the excess. It's a little floppy than wrapping the strapping around the hooks and ratchet together but when I need it, I simply open the knot and throw out the excess straight and untwisted. Finally, I heard you allude to another video in which you showed how to unfoul an overloaded ratchet and were chastised by people in the comments for being dangerous. There is nothing wrong with opening a ratchet under load with your fingers on the rear ratchet mechanism so long as you take proper precautions. On many occasions I've been presented with ratchet straps that could not be opened fully to release both ratcheting mechanisms. So long as I can put additional pressure on the handle, I can release the front ratchet mechanism and then manually release the rear mechanism with my other hand and gently reduce the pressure on the handle. The most important precaution to take when releasing such a ratchet or unfouling an overloaded ratchet is to make sure no one tries to help you. The only way you can get hurt by reverse ratcheting to release either of these situations is if somebody else is pulling on the free ends. In many cases I actually prefer to manually release the load rather than experience a sudden release when engaging both cams. It's easier on whatever you're attached to, as well, whether it's your pickup bed or the walls of a semi trailer. I've watched stacks of lighting truss, long aluminum structural members, fall after a particularly tight strap was released and shifted the load. This can be avoided by manually releasing the rear latch while holding the tension on the handle with your other hand. If you are still worried about something releasing and all that pressure becoming kinetic energy that either pinches your hand in the ratchet or send shrapnel from a broken ratchet into your hand then find a hook that can be used to release the mechanism with your hand outside the swing of the handle. One other note. I wish you had shown the release of a ratchet strap under significant tension. If someone's watching your video with no experience using ratchet straps it can be a jarring surprise how violent and loud that release can be. It would have been useful to demonstrate actual conditions of a typical ratchet strap being released.
Great Video But may I suggest that you put a twist in the strap if tying to a roof rack or trailer. Ask any trucker why and he will tell you it stops that annoying hum caused by the wind over the strap.
Thanks, martintheshred, for watching and commenting. I usually do put a twist especially when it's a longer length to tie down. But thanks for the reminder. Best, DFJ
I start with the clasp closed, so I don't have the feed the end back through. Then again, I'm usually doing this for a load (canoe) that's on a roof rack / bars, so the loose end hangs nicely after passing through the slotted bar.
Jay: great video. Good pace and you present in a manner that is easy to follow, yet not condescending to any newbie (like myself) when it comes to securing loads. Appreciate it.
Not a fan of the c clamp....I like to go over one corner and under the other like the cross method .sometimes I'll use the screw type small wooden double threaded screw clamp that I keep in toolbox.they are actually the oldest clamp of all clamps and have a great holding power and spread the clamping force even to not mar surface.great video ..I used to use a ratchet strap as my application for people wanting a job ...a person's I q. Is closely related to their ability to operate one correctly ...also if a man hasn't strapped a lot of stuff in his life then he's probly not much of a working man. You ever seen a real dumbass tryin to operate a ratchet strap?..pretty funny
i think its easiest to feed the strap though in the closed locked position. the way this video show its like feeding it though 2 times. you must alight the cam 90 degrees from the handle so it feeds strain though. Ill have to try the loop for storage. a lot of time i use the ratchet handle to lock down the free tail end. it has teeth under it i think its designed for it. I use the straps at least 50 times a week for work.
I agree ! I close the ratchet and makes it a lot easier to feed the strap through ! I also use zip ties to secure the extra strap after I roll up the access !
Tim Z, you are correct. Others have mentioned this as well, and it's a superior approach to the one that I demonstrated. My technique works, but it's not as direct and elegant as the way you mention. We have another episode planned showing the best viewer family insights, and this will make the list! Thanks for taking the time to write! Best, DFJ
@@fuzzyelm1 Eddie, thanks! I like the zip tie approach. Another viewer uses large binder clips (the kind used to clip sheaves of paper together) to accomplish this. We love this medium because we get to have great ideas and conversations exchanged. Thanks for weighing in! Best, DFJ
That 3:46 to 4:26 gig can get someone in big trouble (lose a load) quick. Anything less than 2+ wraps around when tightened is not secure to the strap rating, if at all.
ACTUALLY Attention Jay: A good idea I use to store my ratchet straps is a cheap plastic Harbor Freight Ammo Can!! In my truck I have an extended cab and I found the ammo can laying on its side slides neatly under the rear seat out of the way!! Not only are the ratchet straps "safely stored" this way, but because it is an Ammo can it won't open as it slides around either!!
Greg, this is an EXCELLENT idea. I plan to feature it in an upcoming episode of the next batch of great ideas we've received. We'll be sure to give you credit for it! Best Regards, DFJ
Excellent vidéo thanks , i watched another video on TH-cam and the guy recommended interlocking the S shaped anchors together to have a more secure bong .
What a thorough explanation of all things relating to ratch tie down straps - thanks for sharing finally ratch straps have become mystified for me and I can unravel my big of wad of straps which basically have become unusable because it was so fun in the first place making all that clicking nose ratcheting it up until it comes time to undo it all! :( Thank for making all us newbies realize how not to wad it and the point is to ratchet the least amount as possible! On top of which I now know how not to lose my purchase moving them on the back of a ute :)
When using quicklinks or 'biners just be careful of how you load the eyelet on the hook. Some ratchet straps have enough room to connect straight to the fabric sling, but if you can't do that just double check how they're loaded. Those bent hooks aren't welded, and they can easily open up if you put force on the wrong axis. It's still a good idea, but you just need to keep an eye on them.
1. When you hook the two hooks to each other, put the hook of one side inside the hole that is behind the s part of the other hook. This is less likely to pull apart. 2. When I haul one or 2 boards or pieces of plywood, I wrap a strap all the way around the board crossing it under and when I tighten up it cinches the strap tight around the board. I leave the tailgate even with UP with boards longer than the truck bed, when I’m not hauling a lot of boards. I liked your video. I put a shop towel around the touch points of the straps on my ebike to protect the bike. Never never trust bungee cords. They are the number one cause of blindness in young people!
...In the beginning I realize you connected the hooks to the tailgate cables for the ratchet demonstration but I hope others watching do not do that to actually hold a heavier load. I've been using the straps for decades and only watched because I never knew people needed to be shown how to use them. Some good tips there and I appreciate you taking the time to make the video but I thought people were smart enough to figure stuff out for themselves. Guess I was wrong so I did learn something. .
I mean, if you do it with the handle closed it's a LOT easier, why do it with the handle open, in the way and have to feed it through the handle? haha...Close the handle first...
Indeed, I've now adopted that practice after getting that same advice from savvy viewers like yourself. We are going to re-produce this episode with some updates, including your tip. Best, DFJ
Will, great insight. We'll mention this in an upcoming viewer tips video, and give you credit for it. We had another Viewer Family member mention he made the mistake of laying the strap across the bottom portion of the hull of his boat, and ended up rubbing a hole in it. Whatever the softer material is, it's gonna lose. Thank for writing! Best, DFJ
Good tips for those that haven’t figured it out. I formally worked at a auto parts store and often had to train people on how to use them. They should have watched your video. Just as a added tip, you can flip your receiver hitch over and use it as a spot to run strap as a anchor point to keep load from sliding also. Just takes a longer strap. Keep teaching brother. Folks out there need it.
Thanks TFDCAPT. Just gotta ask...are you a fire department captain? If so, thank you so much for serving your fellow man. If you're not, thanks for just being a great human. Best, FDJ
TFDCAPT - sorry for the delayed reply. What a great thing to be doing. I bet you love going to work everyday. What a way to live! Thanks for being a part of our viewer family. We have several friends in our community that serve in various Fire Departments. Love those guys and gals. Great people. Best Regards, DFJ
Suggestion…if you have a fair distance between the end hook and ratchet and the strap is exposed to the wind, it will flutter like crazy in the wind. A couple of twists in the section under tension will prevent flutter. Learned this from a trucker with ratchet straps used every day. Used the trick in the white bimini straps on my boat. Stops flutter completely. JoeB
I use ratchet straps twice a year when I trailer a boat. I always foul them up. Thanks for tips. Hopefully the process will go much smoother this season.
here in Ozz you see a lot of those straps laying on the side of the road because they have come loose through some fault and the silly hooks come undone better off using the ones that have a captivated lock ring that goes around the end of the hook but because of the Chinese flooded market they buy the cheap use once type (why use once because they have fallen off on the way home ) there should be a standard rating on these things
This was great! I learned several things I've been doing wrong. But you didn't come back to how to store them. I've bought some velcro straps to keep them together FWIW. I have some very big straps I have used for towing - rarely use them, so I've used zip ties on those. Speaking of... worth mentioning that buying the appropriate size strap will save a lot of hassle. Thanks again.
Good points. When securing a load subjected to winds from highway speeds a single twist in the strap midway helps prevent the humming and strap vibration caused by the air.
Right? I remember that tidbit of knowledge from years ago and yet I still see quite often on big rigs the straps flapping and vibrating which can cause other problems in the long haul.
Yes a twist in the strap does it weaken the strength of the strap at all ! The only thing a twist may do is get into the ratchet tumbler if you aren’t paying attention, but if your that stupid you maybe should not be trusted with the task
Yes that twist to prevent flapping is an old trick I learned as a flatbed truck driver 40 years ago. It’s not necessarily needed on a very low profile load like rebar but it’s important for taller loads.
I was going to say the same thing but you did it for me. A twist will eliminate shuttering. It always bugs me when I'm driving down the freeway and I see a strap shuttering.
@Alan 602 that’s the thing though, that humming and flapping equates to constant movement and possible loosening of the straps which is never a good thing.
I have successfully used ratchet straps to seat the bead on tubeless tires as I don't have a compressed air bead seater. A small one for the front tire of a zero turn mower and a medium one for a vehicle or front end tractor tire. It's possible that a large one would work for a rear tractor tire as a lot of squeezing pressure can be created. It's been the cat's meow several times for my situation.
Dean, this is brilliant! We may feature this in an upcoming video and we'll give you credit for it. Any other creative uses for ratchet straps that come to mind? Best, DFJ
Here is another creative use....to "square up" a leaning arbor before securing it with corner supports. Secure the hook of the long strap to the upper corner of the arbor that is leaning away from the center. Secure the hook of the mechanism side to the opposite bottom corner. Connect the straps and begin ratcheting until the leaning corner is pulled back into square. Once squared up, secure top rails with corner supports.
If you ever see a steelhauler loading sheet goods, they will lay a couple 4 by 4's on the steel and then throw the chain across. It's hard to explain, but if you see it done, it makes total sense.
Ed, I have seen that. Thanks for bringing that up. The 4x4's allow down pressure to be brought to bear on the steel, without the chains coming right across the sharp edge of the sheet steel. These kinds of practices are time tested by people that depend on them to safely secure, and transport loads. Thanks again! Best, DFJ
I buy the dang things on sale. Even if I have plenty. HF is terrible place. Under $2 for 400 lb 15’ long. Hand them out at lumber yards, garage sales… when I see a disaster in the making. I have some 800lb working load that I use often. Just over $3 each couple years ago. Still in good shape. Cheapest means to secure anything on a truck bed, trailer. As you protect from rough/sharp edges they are good for years.
I bought a strap. Having never used one, I tried to follow the directions on the packaging. The first thing I did was get that double roll going, filling up the mechanism quite quickly. Before even watching your video, I somehow stumbled onto your technique to undo the mess. I hopped online and found your video, and I have now avoided other mistakes I would have definitely made. Thanks for the tips and techniques!
hauling 4x5 round bales of hay, thought about placing a chock behind last bale in case load migrATED to back of flat bed trailer, but unsure on how to secure it....anyway you could demo this?
Jan, I don't have the equipment that is similar to what you are describing, but I think I can offer a bit of technique that you may find helpful. Let me summarize what I believe you are saying and we'll go from there. You are loading large round bales of hay, probably in line with the front to back orientation of the trailer. You are securing the bales over the round "tops" of them by putting straps from trailer side to trailer side and tightening them down. While this does well with providing side to side and downward pressure to the trailer floor, it does not address "backwards" motion, out the back of the trailer, so you are wanting to put in a securement strap (chock) across the back end of the load to stop it from having any movement towards the back of the trailer during transport. Did I get it right? Assuming so, here's a couple of ways to address this using additional straps. 1. You could put a strap from the center of the tail gate or bottom edge of the back of the trailer up over the back bale of straw affix it to one of the straps going over the top from side to side. Don't overtighten, but make sure it's secure. 2. Or, before placing load, lay and secure a strap to an attachment point at the front of the trailer and then play it out to the back. Load the trailer on top of this strap, and when loading is complete, put another strap attached to the exposed hook, and running back over the tops of the bales to either one of the side to side straps nearer the front, or the front of the trailer itself. Tighten appropriately. 3. Lastly, you could do a chock from side to side across the face of the back bale and attach to one of straps going side to side and over the top of the last or second to last bale. Don't tighten yet, as the strap will simply ride up the slope of the side straps. Now, you must use two additional straps, one of each side, to hold the chock strap from riding up the over the bale top strap as it tightened. Hopefully, one of these approaches will help! Best Regards, DFJ
Thanks so much for sharing this. The arm opening thing is helpful for me because I have had multiple TBIs that affect my ability to do/remember simple things like this without some cheat ideas. I am hoping this one will stick for me because I had to haul some stuff last month and it took me like 30mins to remember and get it to work and I was really stressed and embarrassed and mad and that makes it even harder to remember and do it. Anyway, thanks so much for this. I am saving this video!
Thanks for watching and commenting Al Genaro. Sorry to hear about your TBI issues but that fact that you just keep trying until you get it done is really impressive. Best to you as you continue to learn new things. Take care. DFJ
Like one commenter already mentioned, always twist the strap that goes cross the load to prevent it vibrating agaist the surface, long journey and the surface is ruined. It does not weaken the strap at all, only knots do. Sometimes (usually...) even professional truckers leave the straps flat and straight. My usual boat transporting trucker once said that those "flat strappers" are the ones with a peanut in the place of brains.
Love it. Indeed, in another video we did, we mentioned that tip, but have a new edition coming out of "best viewer tips" for using ratchet straps. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
mrarmy300 - glad you like it - it's my personal favorite. We have another episode coming up showing 4 or 5 ways to secure the tail end of the strap - and you can be sure that will be one of them that is featured. Thanks for watching - be sure to subscribe if you haven't already - and check out dirtfarmerjay.com! Best Regards, DFJ
C-clamp and I've ruined a bunch of them so far thank you for showing me how to do that I hope that I remember how you showed me I've had to cut them with the scissors and a knife just to get them free cuz they get tangled and messed up thank you so much hopefully I remember😊😊
Again the strap is.Laid . across the truck box load the truck take the right end of the strap and hook it to the left side take the left end and hook it to the right side this puts the strap around the load and all so over the Load this prevents a individual boar from coming loose
6:55 I drove commercially and trained flatbed drivers on load securement. Whoever told you that was full of it. That is exactly what that pawl is for, and why some have a slight notch for your finger to stay centered. Normally you don't need to manually pull it, but there are occasions you will. Everything else was good advice for the beginner. And I like the tip you showed how to deal with extra strap. I'd normally roll it up and tuck it under the strap on those little ones. In the 2in and 3in straps, you can roll it and tuck it back through the ratchet handle as you close it. One more tip: When feeding the strap through the ratchet, wind the empty ratchet until the reel openings are up and down. Close the ratchet and you can feed the strap from the bottom to the top in one motion. Then start ratcheting. And one thing you forgot, your securements (straps or chains) will normally loosen up as your load settles. If you're going more than a mile or two, stop about five or ten minutes after loading and check your securements to make sure they're still tight.
Project Farm has a great video on ratchet straps. His tests showed a 40 lb tension loss in just 30 seconds. Your advice is spot on. Re-tighten the straps before going too far.
Rob, thanks for weighing in and taking time to share your expertise in such a clear manner. Thanks particularly for your insight on the pawl notch, as well as the feeding tip for the strap when loading the ratchet. The insight about tightening the load again after it settles is GOLDEN - that will show up in another tips video, and we'll be sure to give you credit for it. Thanks again! Best, DFJ
As a flatbed truck driver, I’d say you’re not wrapping enough strap around the barrel of the ratchet. The strength of the hold doesn’t come from the small hooks and small plate. It comes from the wrap mostly. The more wraps you can get, the better. Leave a little slack, don’t tug tight before ratcheting. Get a good 2-3 wraps around the barrel. That won’t cause jamming and will hold more securely. Also, if you don’t want your strap to flutter in the wind, put one half rotation on one side, flat across the top, and one half rotation on the other side with feeding the strap through the barrel flat. Still, have 2-3 wraps around the barrel. This will not only be a stronger hold than shown here, but it’ll prevent the strap from fluttering in the wind. Hope this helps.
Incognito Burrito (love the screen name!), thanks for writing. This is good stuff. Watch for another video where this information will be incorporated. Best Regards, DFJ
Thanks Jay! We're the guys from the Lowes. Love your videos. Always learn alot. Glad we could help!
Thanks russell hansen. Great to hear from you guys again. If you have any more great tips like the last one, let me know. jay@dirtfarmerjay.com. Best, DFJ
That’s what I do.
Jay, a couple of points from a truck driver: 1) You want a minimum of two revolutions of strap wrapped around the drum - if the strap gets wet it can slip if the load shifts without two revolutions on the drum. 2) That loose flapping tail of the strap is called a dog ear and it is against the law. Very dangerous and is considered an unsecure load. What you showed is going to be left up to interpretation by law enforcement. If I was to use that method, I would still take a zip tie and secure it back onto the strap - zip ties are cheap. 3) The C-clamp - Negative! That would be considered an attachment point and is regulated bylaw - also the carabiner, get it gone. DOT regulates the equipment to be used to secure a load, and climbing equipment is not in the book for securing loads regardless of it weight rating. You take an authorized strap and attach it straight to an authorized attachment point. The biggest take away I want you and your viewers to take away from this is - don't get creative when securing a load. Even those two cleaver chaps at the home improvement store - those straps must be rated. If they are doing this job for hire - they are held to the same laws as a truck driver is with the securement of that load. They are required to have clearly marked load ratings on the straps they use. If you are doing business in commerce you are held to all the laws when it comes to load securement. Even private Joe hauling his motor cycle or race car needs to step up their game and use rated straps with proper attachment points that are also rated for their needs. Good straps are not that much more in price, and it lets you and everyone else know the load is secure. 4) Check your load in the first 100 miles after you secured it down and start on a trip - it is not only smart to do, but is required by law. Check the load every time you stop after that.
I hauled flat beds for a number of years and loading and unloading was my Zen time. I worked where I even got to load and unload most of what I hauled. Even tarping an un-tarping a load became an art form for me. Most drivers want to drop and hook - not me. I want to control every aspect of a load I can - and get paid for it too.
This is GREAT information Chuck Howard. Thanks for sharing with our viewer family. And also, thanks for being one of those who help transport items to those who need them. Best to you! DFJ
minimum of two revolutions of strap wrapped around the drum... I understand what you said but I don't understand how to do it. Any tips? TY, Michael
@@iceroadtrucker2008 Leave more strap between the ratchet and the other hook when you first start ratcheting so that it has to rotate at least twice before tightening up.
Hey Jay! When you get tired of chain binders & tarp’n, but still want to be in the Zen of control, haul fuel! Pays way better!
@@DirtFarmerJay Maybe you should reupload cause this can be dangerous information? guy I work with used this and im sure other people are breaking the law because of this video.
I'm sorry but that second "grabber" does not release like yours and I have to fight trying to release that dangerous one at the same time as the easy release bracket, too much trouble, I just grab some rope and I'm done, ( cheaper too)
I HATE the crappy hooks on so many of these. Some are half open so they won't hold or they fall off or they are too small to hook onto anything but themselves.
If you decide to use the to use the C clamp system please put some kind of a safety lanyard to the C clamp. If that C clamp comes loose on the highway you could do some serious damage as it bounces off people’s cars. Just don’t do it.
Good point. I think I'd build on the C clamp idea with another device.
Kenny, good insight. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Best Regards, DFJ
Kenney, I've be reviewing all the comments one again and came across your comment about the use (or should I say, non-use!) of a C-clamp. Your point is well taken and will in fact be mentioned in a future episode on load securing, and do's and don'ts. That was not good practice on my part (although I use this for a short trip and make sure it is tightened down for the short duration) - but this could lead to some bad situations as you mention. Again, thanks for the nudge. Best Regards, DFJ
i agree, don't use that way of securing the straps. i think the x pattern securing flat material is much safer.
@@DirtFarmerJay Put the strap one over one under no camp
Never use a C-clamp! They can easily loosen during transport due to road vibration - and can turn into a metal missile that can do serious damage.
Arthur, point well taken, thanks for writing. Best, DFJ
We all saw this however, you missed the common sense aspect, he showed a rusty old clamp which won’t vibrate loose and be a projectile on the hwy for tailgaters. 😁
Just bolt it to the tailgate instead.
Thank you so much. I was pulling my hair out trying to put two of them back together. You made is simple enough for me to catch it and even understand (somewhat) how they work. Thanks so much
They clamp a little tighter and don't work off as easy if ya use wood spacers on both sides of c clamp.
But ya need to check them
Here is a tip for you. Don't insert the strap the way you are doing it with the lever open. You should ratchet the drum until the slot is perpendicular to the automatic pawl/spring catch/release tab, then you shut the lever. This makes it so you can lace the strap through the drum and not have to thread it back through the lever. Two actions instead of three. Makes it easier when it is cold and with gloves on.
Aztec Warrior - thanks! We've had other viewers write in and counsel the same thing. I'm adopting your way and will feature it in an upcoming episode. Thanks for watching, and taking time to write - best regards, DFJ
Great tip! What do you think of this guy’s way of inserting the strap? th-cam.com/video/VWRcHawotr4/w-d-xo.html
@@DirtFarmerJay Something I was tought never hook two straps together with the two open hooks rather hook one open to the closed eye on the other.
Just fyi, your ratchet strap is not at its full strength without at least 3 complete turns around the drum. You are creating a tensionless anchor by rotating the strap around the drum.
@@jeffkimble8857 who is?
Lasr year I bought 5 sheets of 5/8 “plywood to make hurricane shutters. With 2 rotator tears on each shoulder and age 85, Lowes loaded the stack of ply into my short bed F150. They threw the 20 lb bag of bird food on top. It stuck out a bout 2 ft past the lowered edge of the tailgate. At the 2 nd stop light I heard a big whump. The entire stack with bird food still on top was in the middle of the busy intersection as I got the green light. What to do now? I could move single sheets of the 5/8 ply back to the truck one at a time and get each sheet back aboard. The Mercedes behind me at the intersection was stuck. Two young black men about maybe 18 or 20 were weed wacking an empty lot at the intersection . Heavy traffic behind me and oncoming. The bundle of ply and bird seed landed completely intact, edges perfectly aligned. The two young men dropped the weeders and rushed to the pile of ply. They each grabbed an end of the bundle with bird seed in the middle and tossed it back onto the truck bed. I said thanks, “You guys are my guardian angels today. “. Gave each a $20 and they raced back off to their wacking. I came home and installed 4 hooks on the tailgate for Bungie cords or ratchet straps. Bought 4 12ft orange ratchet straps at Harbor Freight next visit to town. Lesson learned. Learn from other peoples mistakes. Experience is NOT THE BEST TEACHER. It is embarrassing and costly.
Listem to MR. JAY……..
JoeB
Hilarious but awesome story!!!
Joe B, Thanks for sharing your story. Sorry it happened but sounds like you DID have some Guardian Angels around you that day! Congratulations on your 85th birthday!! May God watch over you each and every day. Best, DFJ and Dirt Farmer Maggie
Guardian Angels do NOT need cash. I would have helped you for free. Your cash would have been no good with me. ✌🏼
Cut a slit in a piece of garden hose. Great edge protector.
Thanks for this one!
Another inexpensive and handy item to prevent the strap contacting and chafing a boat surface or to prevent the strap from being damaged on a sharp edge is to use a pool noodle, cut open lengthwise through the core, and then cut into one-foot lengths.
I you start with rachect closed you dont need to feed it back through the 2nd time.
I was going to point that out too. I have always feed the strap though with the ratchet closed.
Count me in on this comment. The most common misuse of a ratchet strap is to feed it with the handle in the open position. I hover between cringing and laughing at people who struggle to put the strap back through the handle when there's no reason you should have to do so in the first place.
Jim Carris, John Ossendorf, and fantasticsound - great insight all of you. I'm so used to doing it that way, that it's become my practice and I don't have any problem threading the strap. Having said that, I've begun work on changing the habit to the way you mentioned as it simply is better and simpler. We have another best tips video coming out (we have had so many people weigh in on this topic with some really great practices). I'll make sure to own up to the misstep and point out the better way. Thanks all for taking time to write! Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay You actually don't have to feed it back through at all. Been using straps probably since they started making them and I never feed mine back for the return trip toward the starting anchor point. I always simply push the strap through leaving the tail toward the anchor point that's holding the ratchet. After I pull the strap through and pull as tight as I can towards the ratchet side, I just start ratcheting and it tightens as tight as a drum. Just make sure the tail is on top, not underneath. Doing it this way your not near as likely to crowd and bind the ratchet. It will release every time. It's essentially the same thing. It just helps keeps everything straight.
@@brighterredneckideas8021 Well said, I've adopted this approach as well because of the feedback and insight of several viewers like you. We'll be updating to this approach in another video coming out shortly. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ
less work if you leave the ratchet side closed and push the strap through then open it ... no need to push through twice
Mostly common sense. A couple of good points.
I roll them up when done and store each one in it’s own sock . throw them all in the gear bag ready to go no tangles. And stopped using zip ties
Day before yesterday I saw a beautiful piece of ratchet strapping on the roadside & thought someone's strap had loosed & fell off, so turned around to retrieve it. It was a heavy duty 2 inch yellow strap. I was surprised to see it had ripped apart at the ratchet even though it was brand new. Upon closer examination I discovered it was a 16 foot loose end that must have been dragging & blowing in the wind, until the end flopped under a wheel. When the wheel rolled forward on top of the strap it provided enough tension to RIP this 2,000+ pound test strap apart. I saw the rubber tire tracks on the strap that solved the mystery. LESSON BEING, never neglect securing the loose end of a strap!
If it was the primary strap holding the load, it could easily cause a fatal accident if the load fell off resulting in someone behind running over it or died trying to avoid it.😖
Ronald, I've seen the same thing happen, and actually saw a strap, much like what you describe, on one of our roads about 2 weeks ago. It too was snapped in half - evidence of a loose end trailing in the wind and the vehicle running over it. Bad news, for all the reasons you describe. Loose ends can also get wound up in the drive shaft, with very poor outcomes. Indeed, securing the end is just as important as securing the load. In fact, if the end isn't secured properly, then the load isn't secured properly. Thanks for emphasizing that point. Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay I followed a flatbed 18 wheel tractor trailer one day, 70mph, that had a heavy duty chain dragging on the pavement, throwing sparks, near the trailers right side wheels. I couldn't warn the truck driver, he was in the left lane on interstate hwy and I was in the right lane and shy ad afraid to try to ease up on his cabs right window to warn him. I was driving a Greyhound bus. My passengers' and I just had to sit and wait for quite awhile for the drama to happen..
Sure enough, as anticipated,, the chain finally bounced under the dual tandem wheels on the trailer and it wasn't a pretty sight to see and the violent snapping of the chain sounded like a cannon going off needless to say.
@@jerrystevens1865 Wow! That must have been nervewracking. Glad you and the others on the freeway were not hurt. BIG lesson for the driver, hopefully he learned it! Best, DFJ
Great video, but I have to disagree or clarify on 3 points.
1- Laying the strap flat is a mistake when hauling at highway speed. That will allow the wind to turn your strap into a really annoying musical instrument. To avoid vibration put a 1/2 twist in the strap between every contact point with the load. If you're saying "but that will weaken the strap!" you have been misinformed. Tests have shown that no noticeable weakening will occur until significant twisting occurs
2- carabiners. When using a screw gate caribiner be sure the screw is closed under load. This is especially true if the gate has a "keyhole" style retention system rather than the pin and hook style. For my money I'd just go with quick links. The harder steel will retain its shape better than soft aluminum. Nicks and gouges are stress risers that over time will contribute to fatigue and potential failure. Steel is less likely to be nicked. If rust in the threads of the quicklink is a problem spray a bit of WD-40 or dab a bit of antiseize. Even some green thread locker wouldn't be a bad idea. And on that note...
3- WD-40 is not lube. It is a rust preventative. WD stands for Water Displacement. For corrosion to occur four things are required: An anode, a cathode, an electrolyte, and a flow of electrons. WD-40 and most corrosion preventers work by shielding the metal from the electrolytes which are suspended in water. Keeping the water from resting on the metal is the key.
So what should you use to lube joints instead? Any decent silicone lubricant will work fine. There are satisfactory products under brands like Liquid Wrench, PB, WD-40, and others. Not the original products of those names, but the brand used for name recognition.
Anyway great video, but since this is mostly for DIY noobs I thought I'd better clear up some misconceptions.
WD 40 is only a rust preventative for a short period of time...it works as a solvent and breaks down any lubricants on metal that would shield it from moisture causing more rust damage over the long term. Due to inflation, thats my $ .10 :)
Wow, I have used straps like this for years and feel pretty solid in my capabilities, but still learned a lot. I will be using these tips many times! Thank you!
Wow, thanks emery rowand. A ratcher strap "pro"' with these comments means a lot. Best to you and yours! DFJ
Again Google is watching me, this video came up right after I got done srtuggling to release a ratchet strap (I was doing it incorrectly). Thanks for this video! Now I know what I am doing and I even tested it out!
I'm another one that has always struggled with these darns crank straps. I especially like the trick on how to secure all the excess strap once the load is secure. That was very kewl. Great job and clear instructions 👍
Thank you so much. I am a 56 yr old man. Don't get embarrassed just learn from the Big Dogs like you.
I'd like to add that if your strap will be in free air as you drive ( like over a tall item) it's actually better to have twists in it to keep it from vibrating.
1/2 twist on each side to be exact. Flatbedder who uses the 1/2 twist on anything tall and untarped.
TY 4 the brainstorming ideas! Most of your TH-cam fluff is that common sense is not that common.
Thank you so much for this I am a single Lady of 66 years who has to do a lot of stuff alone so use these straps often and yes I have always had a frustrating time with them but thanks too you not any more
You are going to hurt someone with the c clamp use common sense! Go over the tail gate hook to each chain hook tighten down instead
Thanks for stopping by. DFJ
I've used a 3/4 inch garden hose, cut it about eight inches then slice a groove in it, slap it over the end of the Angle iron on my trailer to avoid any abrasive edge on the strap. Works great. Stays in place while I'm adjusting the straps with minimal , sometimes zero pressure from the overlying strap.
My friend got a few feet of retired firehose and cut it into ~foot long sections (not easy) and uses them for strap/load protection.
Yes, and pool noodles can be good protectors, too.
@@wickedmuffin76fire hose is also good for chain protection. Leave it in hose form, cut into sections and slip over the chain. Chain will not scratch painted surfaces then, if your worried about that.
Most carabiners are aluminum and will wear quickly when clipped to a steel hard point and vibrated. Look for steel carabiners specifically.
Dewey, this is a great insight. We'll be sure to mention that in an upcoming episode. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Do not leave your straps exposed to the sun and other weather conditions it will weaken them over time btw that clamp on your sheet goods is not legal in all states.
Strap under and over the end will hold back, no need for a clamp.
Please don't use a c-clamp to secure a load while driving. If the strap vibrates excessively while driving, twist the strap once.
Give the strap a twist reduces its strenght....its forbidden in some countries and you can get fined by road authorities for "unsecured load"....be aware...
Jonathan, point well taken. Thanks for writing! DFJ
@@jeanchardonnay5627 it does not reduce the strength. There is a good video where a tester destroys many straps testing this theory. Vibration can be very damaging to the strap, load,and vehicle. It will loosen or cause shifting of the strap or load.
@@brianhillis3701 Proper testings have been done and are on TH-cam.....You are wrong.....
I use them all the time for setting beads on tires wheel barrels, lawn tractors ect.
Who ever knew something as simple as a ratchet strap could be so misunderstood? What I learned from your video: Stop storing the straps with the long end rolled onto the crank; instead, start with the strap separated from the crank. ( I've always tried to avoid pulling the strap all the way out of the crank because I was never quiet sure how it was "supposed" to go back in.) This takes me to what I learned from reading through the comments: As you demonstrated in the video, start with the ratchet arm facing away from the load. Next, close the ratchet arm but be sure the slot is in a position to easily insert the strap through from the load facing side and out the other side. Do not pull too much slack out of the strap, you want at least 2 full revolutions of the strap on the drum. You can put a single twist in the strap to reduce wind noise and strap wear. Use only transportation approved fasteners and fasten points.
Excellent! All YT videos should be produced this well: good audio, good video, good content. No cheesy graphics, obnoxious music. Straight and to the point. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks Ed Vaioli. And THANKS for subbing. We love to see our viewer family growing every month. Best to you and keep watching and commenting. DFJ
Amen to the cheesy music. I appreciate the channels that forego the hard driving metal music intros. The ones I favor just start with content, no flourish.
AND NOT AT A RUSH!!!!
Good day, thanks for your tutorials, just the C clamp, I don’t like , I’m a truck driver and go 48 states; believe me, have see so many things happen over the road because of a single, even small metal piece on the road, to others behind. Been now for 20 years over the road, I know what and why I mentioned this. God bless you and your family and business.
Thanks for sharing, Ricardo. This is a great insight. Best, DFJ
These all seem to be "good ideas" for those who use a ratchet strap once every year or two. Thank God I learned all these tips and tricks (and many more) by using them daily over the last 50 plus years.
I use old socks to store them when not in use... they're free! Just open the ratchet fully and start wrapping end over end. Then, stick it in a sock!
That's a great idea. Don't be surprised when that tip comes up of the upcoming "Best Viewer Ratchet Strap Tips!". We'll be sure to credit you. Best, DFJ
Here's a couple of tips from a long time ratchet strap user: Always have some rubber bands on hand, when you are done using your straps, wind the strap end and store it using rubber bands, this will keep them from getting tangled,( Always store the strap and ratchet separately) When transporting PVC pipe or round objects, wrap your strap around the pipe, when you tighten the ratchet, this will cause the strap to tighten around the pipe, and will keep pieces of pipe from getting loose. From time to time apply some WD 40 to your ratchets, this will keep them operating smoothly. If you are transporting for a long time-take a break and check that your straps are still tight and in the same place where you started!
Great info Kelly Keefe! Thanks for sharing with our viewer family. Best to you and thanks for weighing in! Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay No problem, BTW your advice on purchasing high quality ratchet straps was right on the money. My worst dread was loosing cargo on the road and injuring someone who was behind me!
I haven't been able to find rubber bands big enough for the purpose, but found a container with 20 10-inch bungee cords in it and they work quite well for my 2-inch straps. Now that I've seen this excellent video, I'm going to try the trick at the end to pull the loop through.
Wide bands from grocery store broccoli are good for this purpose
@@billnelson3605most truck stops as well as tarp/securement shops will have wide rubber bands that can used to keep straps rolled up when not in use. Might be little big for 1" straps but I use them on my 2" and 4" straps. Keeps them from unwinding from driving vibrations while stored. I like to have my straps rolled tight and keep them tight. Always roll straps with the hooks/chain on the outside. The free end will do way less damage then if you throw the hook/chain end and hit someone.
There is too much strap on my thing and I don’t know how to un wrap it. I’m a 68 yr old widow. Thank you so much
using a c clamp looks pretty dangerous
georgebx - thanks for watching and taking time to write. I appreciate your concern and there's a couple of things to consider when you are using a c-clamp for this purpose. First, how heavy is the load. For a single or few sheets of a sheet good, a well-tightened C-clamp for a moderate distance works for me. Second, I orient the C-clamp as you see it - with the strap going through it in such as way that the clamp is being forced against the edge. If carrying a more significant load, the cross under and over is the way to go is now a go-to approach around here. Thanks for your thoughts, and for being one of our viewer family! Best Regards, DFJ
I keep my straps in old socks in a 3 gallon bucket in the pick ups tool box. Thanks for posting this, especially the loose end management👍
Thanks for weighing in Dark Delta. Best to you, DFJ
Good stuff. I don't use my straps all that much and when I do I always forget the proper procedures. Thanks !
Don’t we all
A C-clamp is NOT A LOAD RATED LOAD DEVICE IT DOES NOT LOCK LIKE THE STRAPS AND CARIBINERS SHOULD NOT BE USED WHERE SAFETY IS A FACTOR OR LOAD SECURMENT !!
You should have covered the rating of the straps the size you show are fine for loads you can hand carry any thing you cant carry should have larger wider straps
Sometimes a bent piece of steel is stronger than a cast piece - re: half moon center pieces. Not sure if that principle applies here but just throwing the thought out to you…
True, but those aren't cast. It's a specialty extrusion and they cut the pieces from a long bar.
@@RobCalhounPGH very cool. Thanks!
It's actually easier to have the ratchet closed and then when u feed the strap through the bottom it goes up in front of the handle and you don't need to feed it through again then just ratchet.
U r right. The best way is to close the ratchet and thread the strap!
I’ve made every mistake you mentioned. Wish I saw this years ago! A million thanks!
You are SO welcome Louis Landi. We try hard to make videos that cover topics people are interested in! Keep watching and commenting!! Best, DFJ
Me too, think how smart we are now!😂
That's very stupid to open the ratched and then fidle the strap through forward and then again through backwards.
Much easier is to close the ratched and feed the strap through. You get the same result in one step. 🤣🤣🤣
Simply RTFM before using this straps. 🤭
Thanks for stopping by. You might want to RTFM when it comes to human relations. Just saying..."Stupid" Dirt Farmer Jay.
As an FYI, If you fold closed your handle with the slot facing upward, it is much quicker and easier to feed the loose end strap webbing through the slot, pull slack out and begin ratcheting... No need then to pull one direction and then feed the end back through the handle as it is all ready in place.
Well said, Lonnie. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
I would rather watch the video BEFORE I give a "thumbs up" or "subscribe". Thanks anyway!
😊 thank you soo much! I'm a pretty handy chickie, but these things, sheesh, they have always been an enigma in my family- no one ever knew what tf they were doing. LoL
Big ups to you, Good Sir! 👍🏼
Glad I could help! Keep watching and commenting. Best, DFJ
Thanks Pray to Jesus for guidance
3:35 start with the handle closed and the slot aligned and it is one movement, no pass back through.
Never understood why people insist on passing it back through, Don’t pass it Back through and you can use the tag end of the strap for leverage to tighten. Then when it is time to release the load you grab the tag and rotate the handle to disengage the ratchet, pull the tag end And voila. By passing it back through it is way too difficult to release the strap from the ratchet
@@frednot809 because you can pull tight with one hand and your hooks don’t drop off.
@@Cous1nJack I can do the same thing without passing it through though. To each their own. I don’t necessarily think either way is wrong. That’s just the way that works easiest for me and that’s how I always train people to do it.
@@frednot809 l'm a pass it through man, have been for 40 years. I teach all the young people to pass it through. How do you keep both ends in tension with one hand while ratcheting with the other hand with out passing it back through ? Only bent or rusty ratchets are a problem to release if they are not overwound. Pulling the slak tight before starting to ratchet is the only way I know of to always avoid overwinding.
@@johnossendorf9979 If we can agree that you don’t use the tag and to tighten, the way I do it is leave the ratchet open, Bring the tag and threw one time then pull it toward my load, then simply pinch with my other hand, it allows you more revolutions to tighten some thing because you only have one layer of strap instead of two,You can use the tag end for leverage To tighten a load by just grabbing the end and as you pull up it pushes the ratchet to tighten it. Removal is as simple as opening the ratchet and pulling on the tag end, Unrolls the entire ratchet in one movement. I’m not saying the other way is wrong necessarily. But it’s not for me. I truly find it easiest the way I described
Very helpful thanks jay
I’ve always struggled with these. Thank you so much for making such a great how-to videos for them!!
Thanks for watching and commenting Apocalyptic Blonde. Best to you, DFJ.
Thank you Chuck Howard and DFJ! DFJ thank you for the detail in setting up the strap! I use one at work and have no problem operating it but when I have to put it back together I am usually screwed. Your camera work shows how to do it in detail. Thank you for that!
I have been hauling pallets on a flatbed for a sawmill using much bigger straps. I don't do everything that you do. But I really like your tricks. You gave me a education today and I really appreciate your advice.I found it very helpful and entertaining.
Thanks for watching and writing! Best, DFJ
First, the most common mistake I see people make with ratchet straps is front and center on your video. Once you align the slot for easy access, close the handle and you won't have to feed it back through after it exits the slot because it's already there. I cringe and laugh as I watch people struggle to put worn ends back through the handle. It's an unnecessary step.
Second, please don't ever demonstrate a ratchet strap on something flimsy such as the tie backs for your pickup's liftgate. I know you said it was just for demonstration but I guarantee you some ignorant person will attempt to use them to tie down a load after seeing your demonstration.
Third, I'm happy to see you demonstrating what we call a trucker wrap. Making a loop and then securing it is a very quick and easy way, not only to secure excess strap, but also to release it without twisting. Since the end has no hook on it, you can throw it out and let it unroll. Typically, I take the advice of Mountain Stages, who roll all of their endless straps (ratchet strap with no hooks) and throw them in a huge crate. Additionally, I store my hook straps this way as well. I simply pulled the hook all the way to the ratchet, then use the trucker wrap to roll the excess. It's a little floppy than wrapping the strapping around the hooks and ratchet together but when I need it, I simply open the knot and throw out the excess straight and untwisted.
Finally, I heard you allude to another video in which you showed how to unfoul an overloaded ratchet and were chastised by people in the comments for being dangerous. There is nothing wrong with opening a ratchet under load with your fingers on the rear ratchet mechanism so long as you take proper precautions. On many occasions I've been presented with ratchet straps that could not be opened fully to release both ratcheting mechanisms. So long as I can put additional pressure on the handle, I can release the front ratchet mechanism and then manually release the rear mechanism with my other hand and gently reduce the pressure on the handle. The most important precaution to take when releasing such a ratchet or unfouling an overloaded ratchet is to make sure no one tries to help you. The only way you can get hurt by reverse ratcheting to release either of these situations is if somebody else is pulling on the free ends. In many cases I actually prefer to manually release the load rather than experience a sudden release when engaging both cams. It's easier on whatever you're attached to, as well, whether it's your pickup bed or the walls of a semi trailer. I've watched stacks of lighting truss, long aluminum structural members, fall after a particularly tight strap was released and shifted the load. This can be avoided by manually releasing the rear latch while holding the tension on the handle with your other hand. If you are still worried about something releasing and all that pressure becoming kinetic energy that either pinches your hand in the ratchet or send shrapnel from a broken ratchet into your hand then find a hook that can be used to release the mechanism with your hand outside the swing of the handle.
One other note. I wish you had shown the release of a ratchet strap under significant tension. If someone's watching your video with no experience using ratchet straps it can be a jarring surprise how violent and loud that release can be. It would have been useful to demonstrate actual conditions of a typical ratchet strap being released.
Thanks for providing all this great info. We appreciate you taking time to write to inform us and all your fellow viewer family members! Best, DFJ
Thank you - this is one of the most thoughtful responses on here. You took time to improve a good video.
Great Video But may I suggest that you put a twist in the strap if tying to a roof rack or trailer. Ask any trucker why and he will tell you it stops that annoying hum caused by the wind over the strap.
Thanks, martintheshred, for watching and commenting. I usually do put a twist especially when it's a longer length to tie down. But thanks for the reminder. Best, DFJ
I start with the clasp closed, so I don't have the feed the end back through.
Then again, I'm usually doing this for a load (canoe) that's on a roof rack / bars, so the loose end hangs nicely after passing through the slotted bar.
Jay: great video. Good pace and you present in a manner that is easy to follow, yet not condescending to any newbie (like myself) when it comes to securing loads. Appreciate it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Not a fan of the c clamp....I like to go over one corner and under the other like the cross method .sometimes I'll use the screw type small wooden double threaded screw clamp that I keep in toolbox.they are actually the oldest clamp of all clamps and have a great holding power and spread the clamping force even to not mar surface.great video ..I used to use a ratchet strap as my application for people wanting a job ...a person's I q. Is closely related to their ability to operate one correctly ...also if a man hasn't strapped a lot of stuff in his life then he's probly not much of a working man. You ever seen a real dumbass tryin to operate a ratchet strap?..pretty funny
i think its easiest to feed the strap though in the closed locked position. the way this video show its like feeding it though 2 times. you must alight the cam 90 degrees from the handle so it feeds strain though. Ill have to try the loop for storage. a lot of time i use the ratchet handle to lock down the free tail end. it has teeth under it i think its designed for it. I use the straps at least 50 times a week for work.
I agree ! I close the ratchet and makes it a lot easier to feed the strap through ! I also use zip ties to secure the extra strap after I roll up the access !
Tim Z, you are correct. Others have mentioned this as well, and it's a superior approach to the one that I demonstrated. My technique works, but it's not as direct and elegant as the way you mention. We have another episode planned showing the best viewer family insights, and this will make the list! Thanks for taking the time to write! Best, DFJ
@@fuzzyelm1 Eddie, thanks! I like the zip tie approach. Another viewer uses large binder clips (the kind used to clip sheaves of paper together) to accomplish this. We love this medium because we get to have great ideas and conversations exchanged. Thanks for weighing in! Best, DFJ
That 3:46 to 4:26 gig can get someone in big trouble (lose a load) quick. Anything less than 2+ wraps around when tightened is not secure to the strap rating, if at all.
ACTUALLY Attention Jay: A good idea I use to store my ratchet straps is a cheap plastic Harbor Freight Ammo Can!! In my truck I have an extended cab and I found the ammo can laying on its side slides neatly under the rear seat out of the way!! Not only are the ratchet straps "safely stored" this way, but because it is an Ammo can it won't open as it slides around either!!
Greg, this is an EXCELLENT idea. I plan to feature it in an upcoming episode of the next batch of great ideas we've received. We'll be sure to give you credit for it! Best Regards, DFJ
I do the same thing.
My nearly new Husky tie down straps (Home Depot) came with a proportionately sized (hefty feeling) bag to carry all 4 tie-down sets.
Excellent vidéo thanks , i watched another video on TH-cam and the guy recommended interlocking the S shaped anchors together to have a more secure bong .
What a thorough explanation of all things relating to ratch tie down straps - thanks for sharing finally ratch straps have become mystified for me and I can unravel my big of wad of straps which basically have become unusable because it was so fun in the first place making all that clicking nose ratcheting it up until it comes time to undo it all! :(
Thank for making all us newbies realize how not to wad it and the point is to ratchet the least amount as possible! On top of which I now know how not to lose my purchase moving them on the back of a ute :)
Glad to be of help, Sue Ton! Thanks for being a part of our viewer family! Be sure to sub if you haven't already. Best, DFJ
No joke Sue, I love to hear the ratchet sound too lol!
How about I press like towards the end of the video..if I liked it?
Edit: This was comment #667 🙂
Extremely helpful, thanks so much.
I've doubted whether I could use these properly. Some people have used them so long they can't remember NOT knowing how!
When using quicklinks or 'biners just be careful of how you load the eyelet on the hook. Some ratchet straps have enough room to connect straight to the fabric sling, but if you can't do that just double check how they're loaded. Those bent hooks aren't welded, and they can easily open up if you put force on the wrong axis. It's still a good idea, but you just need to keep an eye on them.
Yeah, I can see that c-clamp come loose and hit the ground and bounce up into someone's geill or even windshield.
1. When you hook the two hooks to each other, put the hook of one side inside the hole that is behind the s part of the other hook. This is less likely to pull apart. 2. When I haul one or 2 boards or pieces of plywood, I wrap a strap all the way around the board crossing it under and when I tighten up it cinches the strap tight around the board. I leave the tailgate even with UP with boards longer than the truck bed, when I’m not hauling a lot of boards. I liked your video. I put a shop towel around the touch points of the straps on my ebike to protect the bike. Never never trust bungee cords. They are the number one cause of blindness in young people!
Thanks for watching and commenting Martin Maddox. Best to you, Dirt Farmer Jay
...In the beginning I realize you connected the hooks to the tailgate cables for the ratchet demonstration but I hope others watching do not do that to actually hold a heavier load.
I've been using the straps for decades and only watched because I never knew people needed to be shown how to use them. Some good tips there and I appreciate you taking the time to make the video but I thought people were smart enough to figure stuff out for themselves. Guess I was wrong so I did learn something.
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You are the best! Knowledge and personality too. Very good combination. I learned something I've been doing wrong for years. Thank you.
Thanks frenchopen23. I'm glad you found the info helpful. Keep watching and commenting!! Best, DFJ
I mean, if you do it with the handle closed it's a LOT easier, why do it with the handle open, in the way and have to feed it through the handle? haha...Close the handle first...
Indeed, I've now adopted that practice after getting that same advice from savvy viewers like yourself. We are going to re-produce this episode with some updates, including your tip. Best, DFJ
Jay one thing I would do to avoid Harmonic Vibration in your straps is to twist the straps where wind can cause a terrible vibration.
IF you wrap your tailgate the strap COULD scratch your paint...NEVER STRAP your painted area.
Will, great insight. We'll mention this in an upcoming viewer tips video, and give you credit for it. We had another Viewer Family member mention he made the mistake of laying the strap across the bottom portion of the hull of his boat, and ended up rubbing a hole in it. Whatever the softer material is, it's gonna lose. Thank for writing! Best, DFJ
Good tips for those that haven’t figured it out. I formally worked at a auto parts store and often had to train people on how to use them. They should have watched your video. Just as a added tip, you can flip your receiver hitch over and use it as a spot to run strap as a anchor point to keep load from sliding also. Just takes a longer strap. Keep teaching brother. Folks out there need it.
Thanks TFDCAPT. Just gotta ask...are you a fire department captain? If so, thank you so much for serving your fellow man. If you're not, thanks for just being a great human. Best, FDJ
I am and very proud of it. Proud to do it.
TFDCAPT - sorry for the delayed reply. What a great thing to be doing. I bet you love going to work everyday. What a way to live! Thanks for being a part of our viewer family. We have several friends in our community that serve in various Fire Departments. Love those guys and gals. Great people. Best Regards, DFJ
Just subscribed to your channel..... Great video ... Thanks for sharing
Welcome! Thanks for being a part of our subscriber family! Best, DFJ
Suggestion…if you have a fair distance between the end hook and ratchet and the strap is exposed to the wind, it will flutter like crazy in the wind. A couple of twists in the section under tension will prevent flutter. Learned this from a trucker with ratchet straps used every day. Used the trick in the white bimini straps on my boat. Stops flutter completely.
JoeB
Usually a half twist or a fold on the 4” straps
Ratchet straps are a pia I have always used ropes , if you know ropes and knots ratchet straps become toys
I use ratchet straps twice a year when I trailer a boat. I always foul them up. Thanks for tips. Hopefully the process will go much smoother this season.
Frank, glad to help, let us know how it goes! Best, DFJ
Thank u for explaining it help me lot to understanding it clearly
Leave the ratchet closed when you thread the strap through, pull on the tail for some tension.
here in Ozz you see a lot of those straps laying on the side of the road because they have come loose through some fault and the silly hooks come undone better off using the ones that have a captivated lock ring that goes around the end of the hook but because of the Chinese flooded market they buy the cheap use once type (why use once because they have fallen off on the way home ) there should be a standard rating on these things
This was great! I learned several things I've been doing wrong. But you didn't come back to how to store them. I've bought some velcro straps to keep them together FWIW. I have some very big straps I have used for towing - rarely use them, so I've used zip ties on those. Speaking of... worth mentioning that buying the appropriate size strap will save a lot of hassle. Thanks again.
Instead of using the cable to strap it on that ford bed. Use the little gunle type thing ford made it where you starp things to table gate.
Good points. When securing a load subjected to winds from highway speeds a single twist in the strap midway helps prevent the humming and strap vibration caused by the air.
Right? I remember that tidbit of knowledge from years ago and yet I still see quite often on big rigs the straps flapping and vibrating which can cause other problems in the long haul.
Yes a twist in the strap does it weaken the strength of the strap at all !
The only thing a twist may do is get into the ratchet tumbler if you aren’t paying attention, but if your that stupid you maybe should not be trusted with the task
Yes that twist to prevent flapping is an old trick I learned as a flatbed truck driver 40 years ago. It’s not necessarily needed on a very low profile load like rebar but it’s important for taller loads.
I was going to say the same thing but you did it for me. A twist will eliminate shuttering. It always bugs me when I'm driving down the freeway and I see a strap shuttering.
@Alan 602 that’s the thing though, that humming and flapping equates to constant movement and possible loosening of the straps which is never a good thing.
When using heavy duty ratchet straps on flatbed semi trailers ur pose to add a twist or 2 so the wind doesn't make ur straps sing (humm)
I have successfully used ratchet straps to seat the bead on tubeless tires as I don't have a compressed air bead seater. A small one for the front tire of a zero turn mower and a medium one for a vehicle or front end tractor tire. It's possible that a large one would work for a rear tractor tire as a lot of squeezing pressure can be created. It's been the cat's meow several times for my situation.
Dean, this is brilliant! We may feature this in an upcoming video and we'll give you credit for it. Any other creative uses for ratchet straps that come to mind? Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay Hey thanks!
Can't think of any other uses at the moment but will send anything that I come across
Here is another creative use....to "square up" a leaning arbor before securing it with corner supports.
Secure the hook of the long strap to the upper corner of the arbor that is leaning away from the center. Secure the hook of the mechanism side to the opposite bottom corner. Connect the straps and begin ratcheting until the leaning corner is pulled back into square. Once squared up, secure top rails with corner supports.
If you ever see a steelhauler loading sheet goods, they will lay a couple 4 by 4's on the steel and then throw the chain across. It's hard to explain, but if you see it done, it makes total sense.
Ed, I have seen that. Thanks for bringing that up. The 4x4's allow down pressure to be brought to bear on the steel, without the chains coming right across the sharp edge of the sheet steel. These kinds of practices are time tested by people that depend on them to safely secure, and transport loads. Thanks again! Best, DFJ
I found after rolling up extra strapping, I can use velcro rap to hold it all together as well. Just another idea.
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I buy the dang things on sale. Even if I have plenty. HF is terrible place. Under $2 for 400 lb 15’ long. Hand them out at lumber yards, garage sales… when I see a disaster in the making. I have some 800lb working load that I use often. Just over $3 each couple years ago. Still in good shape. Cheapest means to secure anything on a truck bed, trailer. As you protect from rough/sharp edges they are good for years.
On the end, stuffed, jammed ratchet. A Vice grip, large screwdriver can help from side
I bought a strap. Having never used one, I tried to follow the directions on the packaging. The first thing I did was get that double roll going, filling up the mechanism quite quickly. Before even watching your video, I somehow stumbled onto your technique to undo the mess. I hopped online and found your video, and I have now avoided other mistakes I would have definitely made. Thanks for the tips and techniques!
You are very welcome Keith Wilson. Keep watching and commenting! Best to you, DFJ
hauling 4x5 round bales of hay, thought about placing a chock behind last bale in case load migrATED to back of flat bed trailer, but unsure on how to secure it....anyway you could demo this?
Jan, I don't have the equipment that is similar to what you are describing, but I think I can offer a bit of technique that you may find helpful. Let me summarize what I believe you are saying and we'll go from there. You are loading large round bales of hay, probably in line with the front to back orientation of the trailer. You are securing the bales over the round "tops" of them by putting straps from trailer side to trailer side and tightening them down. While this does well with providing side to side and downward pressure to the trailer floor, it does not address "backwards" motion, out the back of the trailer, so you are wanting to put in a securement strap (chock) across the back end of the load to stop it from having any movement towards the back of the trailer during transport. Did I get it right? Assuming so, here's a couple of ways to address this using additional straps.
1. You could put a strap from the center of the tail gate or bottom edge of the back of the trailer up over the back bale of straw affix it to one of the straps going over the top from side to side. Don't overtighten, but make sure it's secure.
2. Or, before placing load, lay and secure a strap to an attachment point at the front of the trailer and then play it out to the back. Load the trailer on top of this strap, and when loading is complete, put another strap attached to the exposed hook, and running back over the tops of the bales to either one of the side to side straps nearer the front, or the front of the trailer itself. Tighten appropriately.
3. Lastly, you could do a chock from side to side across the face of the back bale and attach to one of straps going side to side and over the top of the last or second to last bale. Don't tighten yet, as the strap will simply ride up the slope of the side straps. Now, you must use two additional straps, one of each side, to hold the chock strap from riding up the over the bale top strap as it tightened.
Hopefully, one of these approaches will help! Best Regards, DFJ
Thanks so much for sharing this. The arm opening thing is helpful for me because I have had multiple TBIs that affect my ability to do/remember simple things like this without some cheat ideas. I am hoping this one will stick for me because I had to haul some stuff last month and it took me like 30mins to remember and get it to work and I was really stressed and embarrassed and mad and that makes it even harder to remember and do it. Anyway, thanks so much for this. I am saving this video!
Thanks for watching and commenting Al Genaro. Sorry to hear about your TBI issues but that fact that you just keep trying until you get it done is really impressive. Best to you as you continue to learn new things. Take care. DFJ
Like one commenter already mentioned, always twist the strap that goes cross the load to prevent it vibrating agaist the surface, long journey and the surface is ruined. It does not weaken the strap at all, only knots do. Sometimes (usually...) even professional truckers leave the straps flat and straight. My usual boat transporting trucker once said that those "flat strappers" are the ones with a peanut in the place of brains.
Love it. Indeed, in another video we did, we mentioned that tip, but have a new edition coming out of "best viewer tips" for using ratchet straps. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
Love your excess strap rolling trick, never seen that one!
mrarmy300 - glad you like it - it's my personal favorite. We have another episode coming up showing 4 or 5 ways to secure the tail end of the strap - and you can be sure that will be one of them that is featured. Thanks for watching - be sure to subscribe if you haven't already - and check out dirtfarmerjay.com! Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay I am now subscribed!
C-clamp and I've ruined a bunch of them so far thank you for showing me how to do that I hope that I remember how you showed me I've had to cut them with the scissors and a knife just to get them free cuz they get tangled and messed up thank you so much hopefully I remember😊😊
Thanks for watching and writing! Best, DFJ
Brilliant!! I always seem to struggle with these, as well. Not anymore!! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for watching and commenting such kind words. Glad we could help. Keep watching Scott LaMantia! Viewers like you are priceless! Best, DFJ
Again the strap is.Laid . across the truck box load the truck take the right end of the strap and hook it to the left side take the left end and hook it to the right side this puts the strap around the load and all so over the Load this prevents a individual boar from coming loose
6:55 I drove commercially and trained flatbed drivers on load securement. Whoever told you that was full of it. That is exactly what that pawl is for, and why some have a slight notch for your finger to stay centered. Normally you don't need to manually pull it, but there are occasions you will.
Everything else was good advice for the beginner. And I like the tip you showed how to deal with extra strap. I'd normally roll it up and tuck it under the strap on those little ones. In the 2in and 3in straps, you can roll it and tuck it back through the ratchet handle as you close it.
One more tip: When feeding the strap through the ratchet, wind the empty ratchet until the reel openings are up and down. Close the ratchet and you can feed the strap from the bottom to the top in one motion. Then start ratcheting.
And one thing you forgot, your securements (straps or chains) will normally loosen up as your load settles. If you're going more than a mile or two, stop about five or ten minutes after loading and check your securements to make sure they're still tight.
Project Farm has a great video on ratchet straps. His tests showed a 40 lb tension loss in just 30 seconds. Your advice is spot on. Re-tighten the straps before going too far.
Rob, thanks for weighing in and taking time to share your expertise in such a clear manner. Thanks particularly for your insight on the pawl notch, as well as the feeding tip for the strap when loading the ratchet.
The insight about tightening the load again after it settles is GOLDEN - that will show up in another tips video, and we'll be sure to give you credit for it.
Thanks again! Best, DFJ
As a flatbed truck driver, I’d say you’re not wrapping enough strap around the barrel of the ratchet. The strength of the hold doesn’t come from the small hooks and small plate. It comes from the wrap mostly. The more wraps you can get, the better. Leave a little slack, don’t tug tight before ratcheting. Get a good 2-3 wraps around the barrel. That won’t cause jamming and will hold more securely.
Also, if you don’t want your strap to flutter in the wind, put one half rotation on one side, flat across the top, and one half rotation on the other side with feeding the strap through the barrel flat. Still, have 2-3 wraps around the barrel. This will not only be a stronger hold than shown here, but it’ll prevent the strap from fluttering in the wind.
Hope this helps.
Incognito Burrito (love the screen name!), thanks for writing. This is good stuff. Watch for another video where this information will be incorporated. Best Regards, DFJ