Awesome job. I have one of these to build in 1/72 and I shall be using Tamiya paints. Whilst doing a lot of googling for the right colour I was unsure as to use XF-12, XF-14 or XF-76. They say Tamiya made XF-76 for there 1/32 but for smaller scale I think it should be lighter. Looking at yours the colour looks perfect so I think I am going to go with XF-14. Thanks for sharing.
I do a lot of 1/72 scale because I don't have a lot of space. It certainly seems to be the case that the smaller models are improving in detail and quality. Thanks for watching.
Excellent looking Zero, and fantastic paint job. One little thing, not a criticism as you did a terrific job on her; the Japanese wiped down their planes everyday as part of general maintenance {and pride}. They especially did this early in the war, which your Zero is an early war model of the Zero. The chance of excessive exhaust and gun smoke building up on front line Japanese aircraft was very slim due to their daily wipe downs. I'm sure there might have been exceptions though.
Thanks. I appreciate it. Someone else mentioned the roundels would always be kept perfect, whatever the condition of the rest of the aircraft, again down to pride, so I can well believe that would extend to the rest of the aircraft when they had time. Thanks for that.
There are few problems with the colors: 1) all of the Zeroes (except some that were produced at the end of the war) were primed (some sources state that cowling wasn't primed) in color that had a really reddish rust look. So if you wanted to do chipping properly you would have to either do three layer chipping or skip the bare metal on the airframe at all 2) wheel wells should be either the same color as the airframe if aircraft produced by Mitsubishi or aotake (metallic blue-green) for the ones produced by Nakajima 3) propeller should be front silver, back - dark brown.
You can even further. The kit says the markings are for the 201st Kokutai based out of Rabaul. The markings are actually from the Tsukuba air group, based in Japan. The Tsukuba Kokutai was a training unit. This aircraft would have been painted Trainer Orange on the lower wing and fuselage and IJN green on top (the unit's A6M2-K trainers were overall orange). In a photo of this exact aircraft, there are no large tail numbers painted on the lower wing (the black "34"). It is a nice build and a nice kit, but this color scheme and markings combination is totally fictitious. If he likes the model then it is his choice to do nothing about it. He only has to please himself, guys, not us. But if one were to correct this, the easiest way would be to remove the tail markings and underwing numbers, do a little touch-up there, and use decals for an IJN grey/green carrier-based A6M2.
@Michael Taylor if somebody wants to "please themselves" they would do it quietly. However if you put it for everyone to see you opening it up for everyones to criticism. Nothing wrong with the making fictitious schemes though, however at least you should specify that it is a fiction or what if b/c lot of people are using such build as a reference point for their builds and then getting unpleasantly surprised when finding out that what they did has nothing to do with reality. Also the "chipped to natural method early Zero" crap is annoying as hell: early Zero were primed, painted using good quality paints and well maintained.
@@alexx86hater If people are basing their schemes on other modelers and then being upset because it was not "accurate", well, they need to do their own research. That is just being lazy and blaming others for their own mistakes. The people I do blame are model companies such as Airfix, who claim the markings are for such and such units and they are not. They are expected to do proper research. They don't need all the little details such as stencils, but the basic unit markings and color schemes should be accurate. I think you are wrong about the chipping. The way I see it, the paint will not chip or flake away in layers. The layer in contact with the metal is where the paint will chip or flake away from. I would not expect the paint layers to flake away from each other. If the area is being worn down you will start to see the primer color, but the layers are so thin it would quickly get down to the metal anyway. Debris striking the plane, dropped tools, ammo boxes/belts, etc., or the metal flexing from stress or temperature changes will cause the paint to crack and flake off from the metal skin.
Love to watch your old vids when they turn back up on my homepage Nice build, , Funny thing tho’ , in all my 60 years, I’ve never really given a thought to Japanese plane’s having European numerics before?
As I've said before, music is subjective. Whatever I use, there would be those who don't like it. I'm glad you tried it first and thanks for watching and listening :-)
That wing moulding problem has become an all too common feature with Airfix models.Known as short shots,i have had it with the Jet Provost,Zero,P40 Warhawk and the Spitfire VB...Airfix are aware of it,but sadly the problem still exists...Where is their Quality Control?..
Trouble is, with injection moulding, the most expensive part of the process by far is making the mould, so changing it after the fact is often unfortunately not an option.
Just a thought,but you could save yourself a great deal of time and trouble if in the intro you were to put "All spraying used a 0.2mm nozzle at 15psi".
Quick question about the oil paints..do they dry very fast because of low level of oil in them? I'm quite new to the hobby and read somewhere that oil paints are great for weathering because the dying time is so long.. oh and nicely done mate! Another very enjoyable watch :)
Thanks for your kind comments. I haven't specifically tested the drying times of these cheaper oil paints, but so far I've used them in exactly the same fashion as my more expensive paints and gotten the same results, so I don't think drying time would be an issue. The only difference I've found is that they tend to go on very heavily, so you actually need less of it, which is also good for saving money as they go further even though it's a smaller tube.
oil paints will always have a longer drying time than acrylics as oil evaporates at a slower rate than water. this makes them far more blendable/workable for longer periods. the downside is the potential for unintended smudging due to a misplaced fingertip.
Don't you just love to slam a new kit box down on the start of a damn good time? Zero kits have this aura of mystique as they were zippy things as aircraft went at the time. Swell job you did on this one. Nice video.
Very nicely done. I really enjoy your videos. Do keep posting them up! I have a question; what do you use to clean the airbrush with after pushing Clear through it?
Thanks for your kind comments. For the Humbrol Gloss Clear I rinse the brush with running water as soon as I have finished spraying, then flush it out with a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud, same as I do for all acrylics. If you don't have a sink near where you work, I have seen guys use car screenwash to clean out acrylics with very good results. I also give the brush a good clean periodically with cellulose thinner, which gets the brush absolutely spotless, although you have to be careful with some cheap airbrushes as it can dissolve the O rings. I always replace the O rings in cheap brushes anyway, so it's not a problem for me, but it's worth keeping in mind. Of course cellulose thinner is nasty stuff, so make sure you're in a well ventilated area and use appropriate protection like gloves and safety glasses (you really don't want that stuff on your skin or in your eyes)
How did you come up with the idea of using Marmite as a mask? I was thinking you were going to use it for the colour. Pretty cool. Nothing wrong with the smell of it either😉
I honestly can't remember where I got the idea, but it wasn't mine. I saw someone else doing it, either here on youtube or possibly on Facebook. As for the smell, we'll have to agree to disagree on that :-) Thanks for watching.
In this case I used some 0.2mm Mig rigging, mainly because I had some laying around. I usually use Prym knitting elastic because it's basically the same stuff but much, much cheaper. In both cases the application is the same - a tiny dab of superglue, then touch the rigging to it and it will stick instantly. Then, cut to length and do the same at the other end. Thanks for watching.
I've been through masking cockpits in a few of my videos. I don't remember exactly which ones, unfortunately. Just for you, next time I do one, I'll make sure it goes into the video 🙂
Don't sweat it. One of the purposes of this channel it to show how I do things, because a lot of channels what they're doing, but now how, so it's an oversight on my part@@GEEISKING
Ok, what the hell is Marmite? I know the traditional term : it’s that spread the love down in Australia. Please don’t tell me it’s the same thing your using. Never mind. I looked it up . You can actually use Marmite to weather models. This should be the only use for this product. 😂🤣
Fine building my friend, but you messed-up colors really badly. First, wheel wells and inside of wheels covers should be Aotake (Nakajima build) or J3 Hai ryokushoku(Mitsubishi buid), because nr.34 is a late war plane, is not allaround J3, her upperside is D1 Anryokushoku -dark green. Second, due to period, propeller should be A3 Seki kashoku-red Brown. Wheels legs are black. Hinomaru insignia was well maintained, retouched when necessary, japanese considered an insult to the Emperor a warn Hinomaru. If you paint all the airframe in J3 Ameiro, you may know now that this type of paint is of good quality, hard to peel-off due to fact that entire airframe is primed with an dark red-brown primer ( later in the war, due to shortage of rough materials, the airframe was not primed anymore, so the dark green paint peel-off easily). Happy modelling, and excuse my English, is not my native language. Stay in good health !
As I said below, music is very subjective. Whatever I used, someone wouldn't like it. I try to keep the music only to parts where I'm not talking, so you can mute it if you wish. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
A master class in model craftsmanship. Loved the manner in which the process was displayed and the advice/commentary. Many thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved the build. Awesome weathering techniques, thank you for the tutorial. Looks great and that’s no easy task in 1/72 scale.
Thanks 👍
Awesome job. I have one of these to build in 1/72 and I shall be using Tamiya paints. Whilst doing a lot of googling for the right colour I was unsure as to use XF-12, XF-14 or XF-76. They say Tamiya made XF-76 for there 1/32 but for smaller scale I think it should be lighter. Looking at yours the colour looks perfect so I think I am going to go with XF-14. Thanks for sharing.
There's something about a well made 1/72nd scale model that I have always loved! 👍
Thanks. I'm glad you enjoyed it :-)
That is an excellent little Zero well done. Great vid as well
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Nice vid. Building a zero myself so this was a great reference.
Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching :-)
Heck the canopy, for 1/72 scale that looks incredible!
Thanks. I actually made a bit of a lash up of it. I tend to cheat a bit and buy laser cut canopy masks these days :-)
every time I'm changing more and more my old idea about scale 1/72 wasn't good enough. Great work!
I do a lot of 1/72 scale because I don't have a lot of space. It certainly seems to be the case that the smaller models are improving in detail and quality.
Thanks for watching.
Very nice build i especially like the chipping effect you did on that aircraft
Thanks :-)
I got some great ideas for the Airfix Zero I'm building. Thank you for making. New sub.
Thanks, I appreciate it :-)
Excellent looking Zero, and fantastic paint job.
One little thing, not a criticism as you did a terrific job on her; the Japanese wiped down their planes everyday as part of general maintenance {and pride}. They especially did this early in the war, which your Zero is an early war model of the Zero. The chance of excessive exhaust and gun smoke building up on front line Japanese aircraft was very slim due to their daily wipe downs. I'm sure there might have been exceptions though.
Thanks. I appreciate it. Someone else mentioned the roundels would always be kept perfect, whatever the condition of the rest of the aircraft, again down to pride, so I can well believe that would extend to the rest of the aircraft when they had time. Thanks for that.
That's a great looking build.
Thanks.
Great job, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Wow another great buold. Ivwill try your painting and weathering techniques
Thanks for watching :-)
There are few problems with the colors:
1) all of the Zeroes (except some that were produced at the end of the war) were primed (some sources state that cowling wasn't primed) in color that had a really reddish rust look. So if you wanted to do chipping properly you would have to either do three layer chipping or skip the bare metal on the airframe at all
2) wheel wells should be either the same color as the airframe if aircraft produced by Mitsubishi or aotake (metallic blue-green) for the ones produced by Nakajima
3) propeller should be front silver, back - dark brown.
Stop being picky
@@joshkearns7470 idk the aotake is a big one
You can even further. The kit says the markings are for the 201st Kokutai based out of Rabaul. The markings are actually from the Tsukuba air group, based in Japan. The Tsukuba Kokutai was a training unit. This aircraft would have been painted Trainer Orange on the lower wing and fuselage and IJN green on top (the unit's A6M2-K trainers were overall orange). In a photo of this exact aircraft, there are no large tail numbers painted on the lower wing (the black "34").
It is a nice build and a nice kit, but this color scheme and markings combination is totally fictitious. If he likes the model then it is his choice to do nothing about it. He only has to please himself, guys, not us. But if one were to correct this, the easiest way would be to remove the tail markings and underwing numbers, do a little touch-up there, and use decals for an IJN grey/green carrier-based A6M2.
@Michael Taylor if somebody wants to "please themselves" they would do it quietly. However if you put it for everyone to see you opening it up for everyones to criticism. Nothing wrong with the making fictitious schemes though, however at least you should specify that it is a fiction or what if b/c lot of people are using such build as a reference point for their builds and then getting unpleasantly surprised when finding out that what they did has nothing to do with reality.
Also the "chipped to natural method early Zero" crap is annoying as hell: early Zero were primed, painted using good quality paints and well maintained.
@@alexx86hater If people are basing their schemes on other modelers and then being upset because it was not "accurate", well, they need to do their own research. That is just being lazy and blaming others for their own mistakes. The people I do blame are model companies such as Airfix, who claim the markings are for such and such units and they are not. They are expected to do proper research. They don't need all the little details such as stencils, but the basic unit markings and color schemes should be accurate.
I think you are wrong about the chipping. The way I see it, the paint will not chip or flake away in layers. The layer in contact with the metal is where the paint will chip or flake away from. I would not expect the paint layers to flake away from each other. If the area is being worn down you will start to see the primer color, but the layers are so thin it would quickly get down to the metal anyway. Debris striking the plane, dropped tools, ammo boxes/belts, etc., or the metal flexing from stress or temperature changes will cause the paint to crack and flake off from the metal skin.
well done!! this is an art
Thanks :-)
Love to watch your old vids when they turn back up on my homepage
Nice build, ,
Funny thing tho’ , in all my 60 years, I’ve never really given a thought to Japanese plane’s having European numerics before?
Thanks 👍 I've no idea about the numerals - I just went with the decals as they came out of the box :-)
Did you ever notice that in 1/72 scale the handle of the aircraft's control stick would be the size of a pineapple?
Well at least it get a good Grip 😁
Excellent video good help on my future build
Glad it was of help. Thanks for watching.
I'm literally like 12, and the way you did yours is way better than mine
We all start somewhere - practice makes perfect ;-)
I was prepared to mute the music due to the comments but ended up listening to it!
As I've said before, music is subjective. Whatever I use, there would be those who don't like it. I'm glad you tried it first and thanks for watching and listening :-)
That wing moulding problem has become an all too common feature with Airfix models.Known as short shots,i have had it with the Jet Provost,Zero,P40 Warhawk and the Spitfire VB...Airfix are aware of it,but sadly the problem still exists...Where is their Quality Control?..
Trouble is, with injection moulding, the most expensive part of the process by far is making the mould, so changing it after the fact is often unfortunately not an option.
Great vid and great build,,enjoyed your techniques many thx thumbs up for sure
Great build
Amazing.
Just a thought,but you could save yourself a great deal of time and trouble if in the intro you were to put "All spraying used a 0.2mm nozzle at 15psi".
Ah, but I don't always spray like that. Sometimes I use one of my other brushes, or I might lower the pressure for a thinner mix... ;-)
Quick question about the oil paints..do they dry very fast because of low level of oil in them? I'm quite new to the hobby and read somewhere that oil paints are great for weathering because the dying time is so long.. oh and nicely done mate! Another very enjoyable watch :)
Thanks for your kind comments. I haven't specifically tested the drying times of these cheaper oil paints, but so far I've used them in exactly the same fashion as my more expensive paints and gotten the same results, so I don't think drying time would be an issue.
The only difference I've found is that they tend to go on very heavily, so you actually need less of it, which is also good for saving money as they go further even though it's a smaller tube.
oil paints will always have a longer drying time than acrylics as oil evaporates at a slower rate than water. this makes them far more blendable/workable for longer periods. the downside is the potential for unintended smudging due to a misplaced fingertip.
Don't you just love to slam a new kit box down on the start of a damn good time? Zero kits have this aura of mystique as they were zippy things as aircraft went at the time. Swell job you did on this one. Nice video.
Thanks :-)
Very nicely done. I really enjoy your videos. Do keep posting them up!
I have a question; what do you use to clean the airbrush with after pushing Clear through it?
Thanks for your kind comments. For the Humbrol Gloss Clear I rinse the brush with running water as soon as I have finished spraying, then flush it out with a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton bud, same as I do for all acrylics. If you don't have a sink near where you work, I have seen guys use car screenwash to clean out acrylics with very good results. I also give the brush a good clean periodically with cellulose thinner, which gets the brush absolutely spotless, although you have to be careful with some cheap airbrushes as it can dissolve the O rings. I always replace the O rings in cheap brushes anyway, so it's not a problem for me, but it's worth keeping in mind. Of course cellulose thinner is nasty stuff, so make sure you're in a well ventilated area and use appropriate protection like gloves and safety glasses (you really don't want that stuff on your skin or in your eyes)
Many thanks. that's a great and very clear explanation! Good tip about cellulose thinners too :-)
your voice sounds like damon albarn :D very nice build!
How did you come up with the idea of using Marmite as a mask? I was thinking you were going to use it for the colour. Pretty cool. Nothing wrong with the smell of it either😉
I honestly can't remember where I got the idea, but it wasn't mine. I saw someone else doing it, either here on youtube or possibly on Facebook. As for the smell, we'll have to agree to disagree on that :-)
Thanks for watching.
Will Vegemite work?
I've never tried it, but I don't see why not.
Do you have model planes everywhere round the house? 😂
Pretty much, yes :-)
I like your style nice
How did you do the antenna wire?
In this case I used some 0.2mm Mig rigging, mainly because I had some laying around. I usually use Prym knitting elastic because it's basically the same stuff but much, much cheaper.
In both cases the application is the same - a tiny dab of superglue, then touch the rigging to it and it will stick instantly. Then, cut to length and do the same at the other end.
Thanks for watching.
why is it that no one shows masking cockpits????????????????????????
I've been through masking cockpits in a few of my videos. I don't remember exactly which ones, unfortunately. Just for you, next time I do one, I'll make sure it goes into the video 🙂
@@SteamGeezerUK Its all good, sorry about the overreaction. I will be sure to check it out!
Don't sweat it. One of the purposes of this channel it to show how I do things, because a lot of channels what they're doing, but now how, so it's an oversight on my part@@GEEISKING
Ok, what the hell is Marmite? I know the traditional term : it’s that spread the love down in Australia. Please don’t tell me it’s the same thing your using. Never mind. I looked it up . You can actually use Marmite to weather models. This should be the only use for this product. 😂🤣
I completely agree. I can't believe some maniacs actually eat this stuff :-)
Fine building my friend, but you messed-up colors really badly. First, wheel wells and inside of wheels covers should be Aotake (Nakajima build) or J3 Hai ryokushoku(Mitsubishi buid), because nr.34 is a late war plane, is not allaround J3, her upperside is D1 Anryokushoku -dark green. Second, due to period, propeller should be A3 Seki kashoku-red Brown. Wheels legs are black. Hinomaru insignia was well maintained, retouched when necessary, japanese considered an insult to the Emperor a warn Hinomaru. If you paint all the airframe in J3 Ameiro, you may know now that this type of paint is of good quality, hard to peel-off due to fact that entire airframe is primed with an dark red-brown primer ( later in the war, due to shortage of rough materials, the airframe was not primed anymore, so the dark green paint peel-off easily).
Happy modelling, and excuse my English, is not my native language.
Stay in good health !
The music was very irritating 😂
most unfitting music ever, great build
Well, it's all subjective of course... :-)
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
Dump the MUSIC...…..
As I said below, music is very subjective. Whatever I used, someone wouldn't like it. I try to keep the music only to parts where I'm not talking, so you can mute it if you wish.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.