This looks amazing! Great work. I would, however, suggest a more powerful torch head. I use that head for detail work. All that said, great video, and great work! Subbed FO SHO!! Cheers
Might be easier to either use a torch that does not lay down or turn torch bottles because some torches will go out or kind if burp as being used or stand the body up. BUT thus looks really good.
Could a stain be applied and sanded back after burning the grain? Burned grain would look amazing with a dark brown or black sanded back to a lighter brown/gray with the darker burned grain .
This looks rediculously awesome, great job! Very nice piece of wood as well, you can hardly tell it's a 3-piece. You seem to use a quite hot flame but short heating periods, don't you? Could you also do a dark burst on the edges by torching or would you rather recommend usual stain for this?
A bit of overkill doing the cavities. You take the chance of overheating and over burning wood outside of the cavity by doing the cavity with zero gain for doing it in the first place. Nice video on technique I would drop doing the unnecessary in the future though. Lost time with a risk even though minimal of screwing the job up.
I created this video with luthier Vaughan Shannon at our workshop. We have done several torched guitars this way, using a variety of wood; but mainly mahogany and ash. The more you torch it, the more the non-grained areas are highlighted. This technique is for max grain affect. Most get a light sand and clear coated, but contrasting stains are really cool too. We torched the cavity on this custom for a clear guard, but ended up with a vintage Fender guard per the client. Sorry it took so long to respond! I’m shocked that the video has garnered so much attention. Hit me up at guitaremt@gmail.com with any questions.
It is a fact, observing spectrum analysis, that woods have different sonic properties. BUT : - It is not just about grain (density, moist, thickness, lenght etc also interacts) - Two different planks of same wood specie, even from the same tree, may have different properties and make a spectrometer show different curves. - You may find two planks from different species showing very similar curves. And above all, with electric guitars (accoustic instruments are way more impacted by wood quality) : what a spectrometer can observe, a human hear may not, and you may find people hearing differences even if the spectrometer can't, because of psycho acoustic effects. That's why the tonewood debate is such a troll by itself. Best wood ? There's no absolute best wood, it depends on what sounds you hope your guitar will produce. Is it accoustic or electric ? Should it be a true replica of some special model ? What music genre will it play ? Must it favorize mediums, high or low ends or be equilibrated ? Will it be painted ? ... However, there are some general consensus about basics : - With woods from a same specie, straight and/or narrow grains are better than twisted and/or large ones, because straight architecture and density increase give a faster vibration transmission. - Between two woods, one being better than an other for your application, you may prefer the worst one because it is way easier to carve, because it is way less toxic, because it is way lighter, because it is way more beautifull etc. For instance Douglas fir has an awesome sound transmission speed, almost as fast as steal, but it is a pain in the ass to work with during the finishing, and it looks boring. - There are some ways to make poor woods sound good. - There are thousands ways to make great woods sound like shit.
@@Bloodysugar you seem to be knowledgeable on the subject I on the other hand I'm just a creator of the music the performer in a sense or pan as they call it skull pan if it's me referring to myself look me up on Facebook skull pan... anyway I have a really cool guitar body in the making it is my first complete guitar build and it is solid Cedar how do you think that would affect the tone?
@@christacooper140 I'm sorry but I've no idea. There are so many parameters that in the end it really depends on the piece of wood you really got, not general assumptions. You really liking this piece of wood is a great starting point as musicians tend to play better on an instrument they love. Then the most important thing about the tone you'll get is the build quality, if correctly designed and build you'll get a good guitar even if the wood isn't top grade, and in the other hand if you have a top grade wood you'll end up with a poor instrument if it isn't designed and build correctly. Take your time, do your best, and in worst case scenario all the mistakes you'll make will teach you a lot for an other project. Good luck with your project, enjoy the process. :)
What wood are you using? Im looking to get a guitar body to do this but I dont know what wood to use. The wood your using looks amazing? So what wood is it please.
I just bought an Alder body, will it work like you did on the Ash or should I stop myself from starting the burn at all? I really want that charred, brushed and stained surface with contrasts
@@Sn2009 yes I tried to burn it under the pickguard and it did not work! I gave it the steel wool + vinegar 'antique' treatment instead and finished with wax, you can see/hear it here: th-cam.com/video/DLb-xfwOwSg/w-d-xo.html
@@thintheherdguitars-afforda2416 did you not use any grain sealer or base coat before your clear coat? W Ash it's near impossible to get a gloss coat without sealing the grain I thought...
Burning a guitar body is much like other art-forms. It can be done well or not so well. It's best left to people who know how it works and can use a torch like a painter uses a brush. So far all I have seen on TH-cam are people who have little to no control over the effects of the flame on the wood. Anyone CAN do this,, but most do it poorly.
This looks amazing! Great work. I would, however, suggest a more powerful torch head. I use that head for detail work. All that said, great video, and great work! Subbed FO SHO!!
Cheers
Might be easier to either use a torch that does not lay down or turn torch bottles because some torches will go out or kind if burp as being used or stand the body up. BUT thus looks really good.
Could a stain be applied and sanded back after burning the grain? Burned grain would look amazing with a dark brown or black sanded back to a lighter brown/gray with the darker burned grain .
This looks rediculously awesome, great job! Very nice piece of wood as well, you can hardly tell it's a 3-piece.
You seem to use a quite hot flame but short heating periods, don't you?
Could you also do a dark burst on the edges by torching or would you rather recommend usual stain for this?
Excellent video
I guess you gave up on part two?
The guitar burned beyond recognition. 🤣
A bit of overkill doing the cavities. You take the chance of overheating and over burning wood outside of the cavity by doing the cavity with zero gain for doing it in the first place. Nice video on technique I would drop doing the unnecessary in the future though. Lost time with a risk even though minimal of screwing the job up.
Unless maybe he's going to do a clear pickguard?
How long did it take you to perfect that skill? You are amazing with that blow torch! The coolest grain popping technique yet
Beautiful. What was the flame setting on the torch?
Where is part 2 ? I want to see it with stain
Alan Rivers right??? WTF
MRK tight ! Came out lighter than I expected
Alan Rivers It’s not the same guitar.
I created this video with luthier Vaughan Shannon at our workshop. We have done several torched guitars this way, using a variety of wood; but mainly mahogany and ash. The more you torch it, the more the non-grained areas are highlighted. This technique is for max grain affect. Most get a light sand and clear coated, but contrasting stains are really cool too. We torched the cavity on this custom for a clear guard, but ended up with a vintage Fender guard per the client.
Sorry it took so long to respond! I’m shocked that the video has garnered so much attention. Hit me up at guitaremt@gmail.com with any questions.
Is it a fact that the wood graining effects the guitars tone? What is the best wood for an electric guitar? Thanks for a great video 🛠
It is a fact, observing spectrum analysis, that woods have different sonic properties. BUT :
- It is not just about grain (density, moist, thickness, lenght etc also interacts)
- Two different planks of same wood specie, even from the same tree, may have different properties and make a spectrometer show different curves.
- You may find two planks from different species showing very similar curves.
And above all, with electric guitars (accoustic instruments are way more impacted by wood quality) : what a spectrometer can observe, a human hear may not, and you may find people hearing differences even if the spectrometer can't, because of psycho acoustic effects. That's why the tonewood debate is such a troll by itself.
Best wood ? There's no absolute best wood, it depends on what sounds you hope your guitar will produce. Is it accoustic or electric ? Should it be a true replica of some special model ? What music genre will it play ? Must it favorize mediums, high or low ends or be equilibrated ? Will it be painted ? ...
However, there are some general consensus about basics :
- With woods from a same specie, straight and/or narrow grains are better than twisted and/or large ones, because straight architecture and density increase give a faster vibration transmission.
- Between two woods, one being better than an other for your application, you may prefer the worst one because it is way easier to carve, because it is way less toxic, because it is way lighter, because it is way more beautifull etc. For instance Douglas fir has an awesome sound transmission speed, almost as fast as steal, but it is a pain in the ass to work with during the finishing, and it looks boring.
- There are some ways to make poor woods sound good.
- There are thousands ways to make great woods sound like shit.
@@Bloodysugar you seem to be knowledgeable on the subject I on the other hand I'm just a creator of the music the performer in a sense or pan as they call it skull pan if it's me referring to myself look me up on Facebook skull pan... anyway I have a really cool guitar body in the making it is my first complete guitar build and it is solid Cedar how do you think that would affect the tone?
@@christacooper140 I'm sorry but I've no idea. There are so many parameters that in the end it really depends on the piece of wood you really got, not general assumptions.
You really liking this piece of wood is a great starting point as musicians tend to play better on an instrument they love. Then the most important thing about the tone you'll get is the build quality, if correctly designed and build you'll get a good guitar even if the wood isn't top grade, and in the other hand if you have a top grade wood you'll end up with a poor instrument if it isn't designed and build correctly.
Take your time, do your best, and in worst case scenario all the mistakes you'll make will teach you a lot for an other project.
Good luck with your project, enjoy the process. :)
no. not in an electric guitar. check out: th-cam.com/video/n02tImce3AE/w-d-xo.html
Do you know if this would work on very rough reclaimed Douglas fir?
Thank you for sharing this.
What wood are you using? Im looking to get a guitar body to do this but I dont know what wood to use. The wood your using looks amazing? So what wood is it please.
It says ash
what type of wood was used on the body? what oil or stain do you put on it when done"
No point asking the guy a question..he doesnt respond?
the body was sanded at what grit?
Is that a maple body made by Fender ? I need to know if this is the same type of wood I have.
its ash
Where is part 2
This was sooooo helpfull!
You put a sanding sealer on it after the burn?
Did you use flux on this body? Are you a plumber on the side? I'm sorry! I find this amusing!
Do you sand first?
I just bought an Alder body, will it work like you did on the Ash or should I stop myself from starting the burn at all? I really want that charred, brushed and stained surface with contrasts
Same here, did you tried, was it good?
@@Sn2009 yes I tried to burn it under the pickguard and it did not work!
I gave it the steel wool + vinegar 'antique' treatment instead and finished with wax, you can see/hear it here:
th-cam.com/video/DLb-xfwOwSg/w-d-xo.html
what do you think doing a stain would be like after this?
So... no go on a tung oiled ash body?
Will this work for alder as well?
Question. Should it be sanded after charring? And, is linseed oil a good choice as a finish on something like this?
What kind of wood ?
Mahogany
Do you drive any solution
very cool
“Ash bodies work best for torching.” Of course they do.
Part 2? Then what?
theres no part 2 ???
Pt. 2 is a sand with 800 grit and multiple coats of poly sealer. The final product is somewhere in Cali. ✌️
@@thintheherdguitars-afforda2416 did you not use any grain sealer or base coat before your clear coat? W Ash it's near impossible to get a gloss coat without sealing the grain I thought...
Can I do it to a finished body?
No , obviously not.
I like it like that
Is this swamp ash ?
It's ash. If it's swamp variety of not, it's all pretty much the same
But now it smells like a camp fire.
The aroma is only momentary and fades then is covered with a clear or oiled. No residual odor or residue
Burning a guitar body is much like other art-forms. It can be done well or not so well. It's best left to people who know how it works and can use a torch like a painter uses a brush. So far all I have seen on TH-cam are people who have little to no control over the effects of the flame on the wood. Anyone CAN do this,, but most do it poorly.
I would linseed oil finish this.