Wow I built my own ebike battery packs for years. Spot welded and nickel strip for higher current and etc. Never thought to heat the top plastic to remold the BMS controller to fit into case as wasn’t a issue on smaller packs. Going to do that now on the new 24AH pack currently building as have space on top to fit into frame. Thanks for the detailed video as now figured out how to do a bigger pack while still being able to fit it into bike
Thank you a lot! Glad to see that even an experienced builder can bring something new into their workshop after watching one of my vids. The BMS fits well if the same battery enclosure is used for a 14S6P configuration, since then a few holders can be snipped off to allow the BMS to sit flush. Having the 13S7P battery takes up all the space in the holders so yeah, it gets a bit tight for the BMS to be fitted inside the enclosure. The only disadvantage of having the case heated up to shape it around the BMS is that it expands the hole that is used to cast the plastic inside a mould. That can be easily patched but takes a few extra hours. Thank you once again.
I have to admit. This is one of the best builds I've ever seen. Everything was done perfectly except for one thing. The master link. Everything else looks perfect. Which says a lot. You done quite a bit of work here. Nice job.
Just awesome to watch! Every step of assembly, I could picture myself performing-down to the muscle movements of clipping ties, soldering, pinching, drilling and final assembly. Excellent video editing and pacing. I want to build your project! Time to watch the processes... one more time😀🤔🤯
Thank you so much! Can't express how much this means to me. Glad to see you enjoyed the video. Hoping that you will be able to build this project too! Many thanks again and best of luck.
Hi, Donny. Thank you for composing such a well detailed video of this effort. I will use it as a reference as I slowly work to converting my street bicycle to an e-bike. I have 2 questions: 1) Can you provide me the break-down of the math that allows you to say that a 13s 7p configuration will give you a 1000 watt solution? (I know that each (new) 18650 cell is supposed to have a nominal 3.7 volts.. but how does that bring me to 1000 (more-or-less) watts? 2) If I have 100 x 18650 cells, and they fall (randomly) into ranges of power - that I document to be from, let’s say 2150 mAh’s and 2450 mAh’s, then, it isn’t/wasn’t clear to me from THIS video how I ought to group batteries covering a rather broad range of powers - into a block of 7 parallel cells. Can you give me - us - some guidance on this - or possibly direct me/us to a video that addresses this matter? Thank you so much! Josh
Hi, Josh. Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated. Glad to see that my video will be used as a reference to help you build your own. I won't be getting into too much detail on my answers but will do my best to provide some info: 1) A 13s7p configuration means that you are connecting 13 packs (made up of 7 cells connected in parallel) in series. A series connection adds up your voltage from each cell pack 13 * 3.7V = 48.1V. Note that 3.7V is the voltage of a half empty battery. Now the 7 cells that are connected in parallel give us a multiplied capacity from each cell. Let's say you are connecting 7 cells in parallel that are approx 2400 mAh each. That gives us 7 * 2.4 Ah = 16.8 Ah of battery capacity with a voltage of approx 48V. Power is equal to voltage times amps. To get 1000W of power from a 48V battery, we need 1000/48= 21 Amps of current. This amount of current will be drawn from each parallel group of cells that are connected in series (13 groups of 7 cells which are connected together). This results in 3 Amps of current draw from each cell (21 Amps / 7 cells = 3 Amps). 2) You need to group the 7 parallel cells in the way that would result in a total capacity that is close in each of the 13 groups. Let's say you group 7 cells with a capacity ranging from 2400 to 2500 mAh in total, and the total capacity for this group that you get is 17150 mAh. Your next group of 7 cells is 18000 mAh in total. There is quite a difference in capacities from these two groups of 7 cells in each, so you need to swap a few cells between the groups to reach the optimal configuration where the total capacity is as close to each other as possible. That's where the spreadsheet comes in help since you can write down each cell capacity and then 'stack' them on the spreadsheet to see how you can achieve that each group of 7 cells comes with a similar capacity. Hope this helps, best of luck! Thank you.
The most difficult thing to your videos is the battery build, very technical but also very detailed I would love to have a go but I probably would just make a balls of it, great to see it done though. Excellent video as always.
thanks for these great e bike videos.i would like to buy such an e bike with the specifications. can you please make me a recommendation which one I should buy and where i buy
Thank you for watching! I am not too familiar with the factory built e-bikes since I make them myself so I can't recommend you a bike with the specifications as this one's.
This was hugely helpful for me, and Im happy I found this video since I have the exact same BMS fitting problem with the battery case, but I never thought of heating the case and fitting the BMS like that, genius! What is the reason for the hole in the top where the BMS is?
That's awesome! Glad to see I could help you out here. The hole is caused by heating the plastic case. I guess that is the place where the plastic is injected into a mold.
Watching the construction of the battery was something to behold. Is that a homemade tac welder? I wouldn't be surprised if you made the 18650s. Nice work
Thank you so much! Yes, that is my homemade spot welder. I guess it would make a much longer video if I include the process of making my own 18650s, haha. Thanks again!
How has using 1 torque arm been for i’m really curious because i always had issues with my full suspension bike and we have very similar dropouts so i just want know how it is, btw the build super clean 💯
Works just fine to this day after more than 1200 km! Had a few issues at first of the axle nuts loosening, but tightening the nuts and torque arm even more solved the problems. Hope this helps.
I watched a video on a bike with a similar rear triangle to this one. They went to actual trails and it was terrible, it would constantly smack the seat post, so much in fact that it was almost impossible to move the seat post afterwards because the body deformed,, but for urban or plain dirt paths it should be good.
This is probably the first time i have ever commented on a video... just wanted to thank you for this.. extremely detailed video and amazing bike, you've got my sub!
loved this there were small little things you did that really was brilliant 👏 battery case is ingenious. just out of curiosity though how comes you didn't use the limit screws on the derailleur to set position rather then the cable?
Wow, thank you! The limit screws only adjust the derailleur closest or farthest from the cassette. The tension of the spring and cable keeps the derailleur in place well.
I have my old Iron Horse full suspension bike that still works great. I plan on making into an electric bike. I was looking at one of the frog battery holders for the seat post since I don't have much room for one in the center. Or a rack mount for full suspension toss a big 20ah on it should work well.
You can have front and rear gears, however you rarely use them on a powerful hub motor ebike. At higher speeds you are pretty much riding a motorbike and all the pedals are for is to fool police/bystanders into thinking it is a pedal bike so you dont get your bike destroyed. At low speeds, simply setting assist to its lowest level allows you to pedal on your highest gear with little effort, so you dont need all the lower gears. Ive still got gears on both my ebikes, but ifI get round to it I will be removing them, to remove stress on the frames (I had to press the frames outward to fit both the motor and the rear cassette).
Thanks! Hope you give this build a try. Since this bike is mainly used on flat city roads, extra gears would not be used much. A single gear allows for a smaller tooth number in the back, which combined with a large chainring in the front, allows the rider to pedal more efficiently at higher speeds. It also cleans up the cockpit since a shifter for the rear derailleur is not needed.
Looking awesome! Why did you choose that spot for the bms, and not that spot at the front with the angled part (cut loose and bend a flap) and then also seal it with sealant? Can you post a dropbox link of your spreadsheet to match the 18650? What is the reason you changed the charging plug in the box? Can this plug not load 5 Ampere?
Hi, I'm looking into converting and I have a few questions. 1. In your previous 65km/h build you used 8a 35e Samsung cells vs. 5.2a 26f here, which is not considered a high amp cell as witnessed by my laptop battery which has the exact same cells. "Knowledgeable" people on the internet have said using pc cells for ebike is a big no no, but seeing how you've done it I'd like to hear from you on how it compares with 8a cells. I guess slower acceleration and faster cell wear are among the issues, but would like to hear your thoughts. 2. I was quite puzzled to see you go with a single speed freewheel but no belt drive. I thought it's a no-brainer for such a setup, no? 3. Seeing how your rear caliper mount doesn't support 203mm disc, why didn't you go with a smaller one? 4. Do you know why those chinese controller boxes are so large if only half the space is occupied? Have you considered storing the excess cables in there instead of a "black box"? Alternatively have you considered cutting out the excess cables altogether? Thanks in advance
Hi! 1. For this 1000W build a high current rating on the battery cells was not needed. These cells are not genuine but perform quite well. The motor will pull a maximum of around 1500W, so each cell will need to output just around 5 Amps at max load. These cells are actually good for up to 7 amps of current draw. And if they are used in laptops, it doesn't mean they can't be used for higher power applications like this e-bike build. And after more than 1500 km with this battery, it is still doing well and pushing the bike with no problems. 2. I don't see a need for a belt drive considering the relatively high cost compared to the readily available and super cheap chain driven parts. And after more than 1500 km on the odometer, the chain works great with almost no maintenance done to it. 3. Bicycle frames are generally (if not all) are built for 160mm brake discs. To accommodate a large brake disc like this 203mm one I used, an adapter is used. For an e-bike like this it is recommended to use larger disc brakes for better heat dissipation and braking power. 4. I guess a larger box is better for heat dissipation from the transistors that are mounted directly to the sides of the case. I wouldn't recommend trying to fit the cables and the connections inside the controller case since they will be difficult to access if you need to unplug some connectors and can cause shorts if any connections are exposed so an additional 'black box' is not such a bad idea. I did cut some of the excess cables to make it easier to fit inside the box. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching.
Hi Donny, awesome build, looks very neat and the cable management looks very professional. I am trying to understand the wiring of the bms, battery and the battery connector before I try this out myself. at around 13:45 you solder a discharge wire from the battery positive, and at 14:50 it looks like you connect it to the positive lug of the battery connector. There is another "output wire" going to the negative end of the battery connector, but you only filmed the B- and B+ wires being soldered to the battery. Where is this other "output wire" coming from?
I built one using a 1500w motor 48v set up on a shwinn graft dual suspension bike frame and for some reason….the bike can go slightly over 40mph. I assume the manufacturer who sold me the sine wave controller decided to give me a 45amp programming to it.
I'm going to be building a similar battery 13S7P using an Aliexpress sourced Polly DP-9 battery case and a Daly 13S/40A BMS measuring 61mm x 80mm x 12mm. Would you know whether a BMS of that size will fit without remodelling the case like you did? I was hoping there would be room without major surgery.
Hi, thank you! It's not a very good saddle to be honest, I would go with something softer next time, something like this: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeeRtCz
Hello, can you tell me if the motor works proportionally to the pedaling without using the accelerator control on the handlebars as for a pedal motor? Thanks
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. Yes, the motor assist works according to the assist level chosen on the LCD display and it can be used without the throttle handle.
Which frame is this you've used? Looks like it has a spacious triangle. Definitely worth going full suspension, it can be quite jarring going over a pothole or drainage cover at speed.
It is simply for keeping the tension on the chain. Other than that is serves no other purpose. There are chain tensioners that you can use instead of a derailleur like I did, but mine did not fit.
@@DonnyTerek how about the connection between the battery and the various cables. Does the vibrations and movements put strain on the junctions and terminals?
Another great build....... I really want an e-bike but I grew up on the wrong side of the tracks and can only afford a $100 (on sale) Mongoose Exhibit bike and $120 motorized bike kit.
Just be warned of the chargers or bms am pants don't leave it charging unattended in the ready made products .....and why the derailleur on the back with 1 cog lol and I gotta get one of them shock absorber without the spring
Ur battery assembly looks complicated how much did u save compared to buying one from AliExpress including the spot welder and the other bits which is in the video
@@DonnyTerek What pre built battery pack do you recommend for a Bianchi Magma 9.2 21" XL MTB frame? My body weight is 75kg and I plan on riding in the city witch flat terrain. I think a 250w motor is enough for the city but I want the biggest battery I can fit in my frame to get the most range for food deliveries. Loved the video! A reply would be much appreciated!❤
Hi donny,I want to ask ? I have a 1000 watt 48 volt rear engine. so I want a battery that can last 8 or 10 hours a day or the longer the better? so how many volts and ah battery size? because I'm a bicycle food delivery…. Thank you donny
Hi! The needed battery size highly depends on the rider's weight, terrain, speeds, how much you pedal, etc. For a regular DIY e-bike you most likely won't be able to fit more than 20-25 Ah battery. I would suggest you go with a 48V 20Ah battery and check for how long it is enough for you. Perhaps have a second one that you can safely charge while the first one is being used.
if you have a 48 volt motor and controller, use a 48 volt battery. As for ah, the more the better if you are wanting to ride all day, so fit the biggest you have space for in your frame. 10 hours is a lot though, so you probably want to buy 2 batteries and keep one on charge.
For anyone doing this with rivet nuts. If you have the steel ones use lots of lube while tightening and expanding them. Transfers the energy much better into the rivnut
@@DonnyTerek . It doesn't fit where you put it even more, hence the melting. If you put it in the recessed area, you would have only needed to melt it a little bit near the front.
@@E-BikingAdventures I would actually need to heat the case even more if I were to place the BMS in the recessed area. This would cause a chance to burn through the case and would look really bulky with the front sticking out.
What are the advantages of building your battery yourself other than knowing how well you assembled it? Do the pre-ready ones don't have the temperature readings? Also there are a lot of type of batteries available, what to choose between 36/48/52 V, and what AH choose too? The higher the AH the more charge it can hold? Your videos really makes me want to build one of these ebikes kit but i'm just not sure for the batteries
Well, probably the main advantage is that you save quite a bit by making one yourself and you don't cut corners on quality. Personally I haven't found pre-built battery packs this size with a smart BMS installed that lets you monitor the temperature and other readings. The required voltage of the battery depends on the kit that you are using. Check what your controller can accept. Most of the times if the controller shows that it can handle up to 48V, usually they also work with 52V. This way a higher voltage battery produces more speed. The controller in this kit works with, therefore I use a 48V (13S) battery. I believe it would also work with a 52V (14S) battery, too. The larger the Ah rating, the more distance you can cover in one charge. Depends if you want the bike to go on longer distances, then go with a larger Ah rating - 18 to 21 Ah. Of course the larger Ah rating costs more since it needs more battery cells. Hope this helps.
Awesome, hope I could help a bit. There are tons of info on batteries on the web and TH-cam. Take some time to read or watch a few videos to get at least the basics of voltage and capacity. You will understand the requirements much more easily then. Best of luck on your future build!
A thermally conducive adhesive, or tape would be better than grease. on the battery temp sensor, even jb weld, or epoxy mixed with powdered aluminum or copper,
Where are you from, I wish you could build my battery like yours, you know what to do. Nice build, nice changes. I want to make my bike electric, but still don't know what battery I'd good for range, for a motor 48v 1500w rear hub
Hi! I'm located in the EU. Thanks! I'd recommend you go with a 52V (14s) battery with a capacity of at least 18-20Ah. Will give you plenty of speed and range. I used a battery like this in my previous e-bike build video.
@@DonnyTerek where from eu, I'm in 🇪🇺 too. I wish I could get a battery that good, it's a little bit expensive, but it will be very good for range, to go from A to B 20 km distance a land 20 more to came back.
Feel free to contact me by email which you can find in my channel's 'about' section or through Instructables which you can find in the description of other videos if interested.
Frage, ist es möglich, den Motor in einen Stromgenerator umzuwandeln, der die Batterie auflädt, wenn sie leer ist, und ich sende Ihnen Grüße aus dem Süden Ägyptens
Awesome build :) - I'm a little scared of you using XT60 connectors for a 1000w application though! :P I use them in the rc-model world but for much smaller things, there are beefier versions that probably suit your thing better.. like XT90 or higher
Hi, thanks! The XT60s can withstand the high current for quite a while. I haven't noticed any melting around the connector after using it on this build.
XT60's are fine with current setup and 25 amp controller or whatever he is running. They'll take it. No harm going to XT90 though. When going super power, you've got AMAS XT150 connectors or EC8 connectors.
Wow I built my own ebike battery packs for years. Spot welded and nickel strip for higher current and etc. Never thought to heat the top plastic to remold the BMS controller to fit into case as wasn’t a issue on smaller packs. Going to do that now on the new 24AH pack currently building as have space on top to fit into frame.
Thanks for the detailed video as now figured out how to do a bigger pack while still being able to fit it into bike
Thank you a lot! Glad to see that even an experienced builder can bring something new into their workshop after watching one of my vids.
The BMS fits well if the same battery enclosure is used for a 14S6P configuration, since then a few holders can be snipped off to allow the BMS to sit flush. Having the 13S7P battery takes up all the space in the holders so yeah, it gets a bit tight for the BMS to be fitted inside the enclosure. The only disadvantage of having the case heated up to shape it around the BMS is that it expands the hole that is used to cast the plastic inside a mould. That can be easily patched but takes a few extra hours.
Thank you once again.
I have to admit. This is one of the best builds I've ever seen. Everything was done perfectly except for one thing. The master link. Everything else looks perfect. Which says a lot. You done quite a bit of work here. Nice job.
Loved the build. Your cable management put my build to shame but gave me some great ideas. Cheers mate
Haha, thanks! Cheers.
Just awesome to watch! Every step of assembly, I could picture myself performing-down to the muscle movements of clipping ties, soldering, pinching, drilling and final assembly. Excellent video editing and pacing. I want to build your project! Time to watch the processes... one more time😀🤔🤯
Thank you so much! Can't express how much this means to me. Glad to see you enjoyed the video. Hoping that you will be able to build this project too!
Many thanks again and best of luck.
I admire how properly this is done. I want to build my own and this is very inspiring
Thank you! It is not that difficult to build, apart from the battery itself of course. Give it a try!
Thanks for sharing this video. I appreciate the emphasis on detail and cleanliness of the job. A pleasure to see your work.
"I'll buy that for a dollar" nice build man also damn that's one nice enclosure you did and the cable management was excellent
Wow, thanks! Much appreciated.
Hi, Donny. Thank you for composing such a well detailed video of this effort. I will use it as a reference as I slowly work to converting my street bicycle to an e-bike. I have 2 questions: 1) Can you provide me the break-down of the math that allows you to say that a 13s 7p configuration will give you a 1000 watt solution? (I know that each (new) 18650 cell is supposed to have a nominal 3.7 volts.. but how does that bring me to 1000 (more-or-less) watts? 2) If I have 100 x 18650 cells, and they fall (randomly) into ranges of power - that I document to be from, let’s say 2150 mAh’s and 2450 mAh’s, then, it isn’t/wasn’t clear to me from THIS video how I ought to group batteries covering a rather broad range of powers - into a block of 7 parallel cells. Can you give me - us - some guidance on this - or possibly direct me/us to a video that addresses this matter? Thank you so much! Josh
Hi, Josh. Thank you for the kind comment, much appreciated. Glad to see that my video will be used as a reference to help you build your own. I won't be getting into too much detail on my answers but will do my best to provide some info:
1) A 13s7p configuration means that you are connecting 13 packs (made up of 7 cells connected in parallel) in series. A series connection adds up your voltage from each cell pack 13 * 3.7V = 48.1V. Note that 3.7V is the voltage of a half empty battery. Now the 7 cells that are connected in parallel give us a multiplied capacity from each cell. Let's say you are connecting 7 cells in parallel that are approx 2400 mAh each. That gives us 7 * 2.4 Ah = 16.8 Ah of battery capacity with a voltage of approx 48V. Power is equal to voltage times amps. To get 1000W of power from a 48V battery, we need 1000/48= 21 Amps of current. This amount of current will be drawn from each parallel group of cells that are connected in series (13 groups of 7 cells which are connected together). This results in 3 Amps of current draw from each cell (21 Amps / 7 cells = 3 Amps).
2) You need to group the 7 parallel cells in the way that would result in a total capacity that is close in each of the 13 groups. Let's say you group 7 cells with a capacity ranging from 2400 to 2500 mAh in total, and the total capacity for this group that you get is 17150 mAh. Your next group of 7 cells is 18000 mAh in total. There is quite a difference in capacities from these two groups of 7 cells in each, so you need to swap a few cells between the groups to reach the optimal configuration where the total capacity is as close to each other as possible. That's where the spreadsheet comes in help since you can write down each cell capacity and then 'stack' them on the spreadsheet to see how you can achieve that each group of 7 cells comes with a similar capacity.
Hope this helps, best of luck!
Thank you.
That's assuming those are rated 1C . If they are 2C continuous, you don't need to worry about it. 1500w! No problem.
The most difficult thing to your videos is the battery build, very technical but also very detailed I would love to have a go but I probably would just make a balls of it, great to see it done though. Excellent video as always.
Thank you a lot! I definitely agree, the battery build is the most difficult part.
Just a really well built electric conversion.
Well done son.
Much appreciated, thank you.
thanks for these great e bike videos.i would like to buy such an e bike with the specifications. can you please make me a recommendation which one I should buy and where i buy
Thank you for watching! I am not too familiar with the factory built e-bikes since I make them myself so I can't recommend you a bike with the specifications as this one's.
This was hugely helpful for me, and Im happy I found this video since I have the exact same BMS fitting problem with the battery case, but I never thought of heating the case and fitting the BMS like that, genius! What is the reason for the hole in the top where the BMS is?
That's awesome! Glad to see I could help you out here. The hole is caused by heating the plastic case. I guess that is the place where the plastic is injected into a mold.
The talent this man holds is awesome
Thanks!
Spray painting right into the connector holes. Brilliant!
No harm was done to it, works just fine!
Watching the construction of the battery was something to behold. Is that a homemade tac welder? I wouldn't be surprised if you made the 18650s. Nice work
Thank you so much! Yes, that is my homemade spot welder. I guess it would make a much longer video if I include the process of making my own 18650s, haha. Thanks again!
How has using 1 torque arm been for i’m really curious because i always had issues with my full suspension bike and we have very similar dropouts so i just want know how it is, btw the build super clean 💯
Works just fine to this day after more than 1200 km! Had a few issues at first of the axle nuts loosening, but tightening the nuts and torque arm even more solved the problems. Hope this helps.
I watched a video on a bike with a similar rear triangle to this one. They went to actual trails and it was terrible, it would constantly smack the seat post, so much in fact that it was almost impossible to move the seat post afterwards because the body deformed,, but for urban or plain dirt paths it should be good.
Really awesome build..meticulous. 👍I’m surprised you didn’t manufacture the torque arms instead of using the hose clamps.
Thank you a lot! I will most likely be making custom torque arms since these are a bit of pain in the .. to use.
Amazing! Top Ultimate Multi-Excellence !
Wow, thank you a lot!
All good. Perfect. But MTX 39 rim hub motor 2.6mm spoke or max 3 mm 26" or max 27.5 Schwalbe Pick-Up
WOW. WHAT A BEAUTIFUL MACHINE xDx
This is probably the first time i have ever commented on a video... just wanted to thank you for this.. extremely detailed video and amazing bike, you've got my sub!
Wow, thank you so much! Truly means a lot. Stay tuned for more e-bike videos soon!
I saw it wrong or did you spray the connectors of the charging port?
Yup, I sprayed over the charging port being too lazy to cover it up. No worries, no paint has gone into the port.
Very nice and hard job.
Thanks!
Awesome bike, great job! Also great video with a lot of details! Thanks for sharing!!
Thank you so much! Glad to see you enjoyed the video.
loved this there were small little things you did that really was brilliant 👏 battery case is ingenious.
just out of curiosity though how comes you didn't use the limit screws on the derailleur to set position rather then the cable?
Wow, thank you!
The limit screws only adjust the derailleur closest or farthest from the cassette. The tension of the spring and cable keeps the derailleur in place well.
amazing mate have u got a the link for the sensor cables for the brakes i need some with SM female connector ? cheers
I have my old Iron Horse full suspension bike that still works great. I plan on making into an electric bike. I was looking at one of the frog battery holders for the seat post since I don't have much room for one in the center. Or a rack mount for full suspension toss a big 20ah on it should work well.
Cool! Would to see how your build turns out.
your videos are very very clean 🙌
Thanks!
Love the build I have an old bike laying around I’m gonna try it just wondering why you put a single speed is it possible to have a entire cassette?
You can have front and rear gears, however you rarely use them on a powerful hub motor ebike. At higher speeds you are pretty much riding a motorbike and all the pedals are for is to fool police/bystanders into thinking it is a pedal bike so you dont get your bike destroyed. At low speeds, simply setting assist to its lowest level allows you to pedal on your highest gear with little effort, so you dont need all the lower gears. Ive still got gears on both my ebikes, but ifI get round to it I will be removing them, to remove stress on the frames (I had to press the frames outward to fit both the motor and the rear cassette).
Thanks! Hope you give this build a try. Since this bike is mainly used on flat city roads, extra gears would not be used much. A single gear allows for a smaller tooth number in the back, which combined with a large chainring in the front, allows the rider to pedal more efficiently at higher speeds. It also cleans up the cockpit since a shifter for the rear derailleur is not needed.
Looking awesome!
Why did you choose that spot for the bms, and not that spot at the front with the angled part (cut loose and bend a flap) and then also seal it with sealant?
Can you post a dropbox link of your spreadsheet to match the 18650?
What is the reason you changed the charging plug in the box?
Can this plug not load 5 Ampere?
The bms took up what looks like a little more that 2/3 of the length of the battery, with the cells there as well it simply wouldn't fit
Hi, I'm looking into converting and I have a few questions.
1. In your previous 65km/h build you used 8a 35e Samsung cells vs. 5.2a 26f here, which is not considered a high amp cell as witnessed by my laptop battery which has the exact same cells.
"Knowledgeable" people on the internet have said using pc cells for ebike is a big no no, but seeing how you've done it I'd like to hear from you on how it compares with 8a cells. I guess slower acceleration and faster cell wear are among the issues, but would like to hear your thoughts.
2. I was quite puzzled to see you go with a single speed freewheel but no belt drive. I thought it's a no-brainer for such a setup, no?
3. Seeing how your rear caliper mount doesn't support 203mm disc, why didn't you go with a smaller one?
4. Do you know why those chinese controller boxes are so large if only half the space is occupied? Have you considered storing the excess cables in there instead of a "black box"?
Alternatively have you considered cutting out the excess cables altogether? Thanks in advance
Hi!
1. For this 1000W build a high current rating on the battery cells was not needed. These cells are not genuine but perform quite well. The motor will pull a maximum of around 1500W, so each cell will need to output just around 5 Amps at max load. These cells are actually good for up to 7 amps of current draw. And if they are used in laptops, it doesn't mean they can't be used for higher power applications like this e-bike build. And after more than 1500 km with this battery, it is still doing well and pushing the bike with no problems.
2. I don't see a need for a belt drive considering the relatively high cost compared to the readily available and super cheap chain driven parts. And after more than 1500 km on the odometer, the chain works great with almost no maintenance done to it.
3. Bicycle frames are generally (if not all) are built for 160mm brake discs. To accommodate a large brake disc like this 203mm one I used, an adapter is used. For an e-bike like this it is recommended to use larger disc brakes for better heat dissipation and braking power.
4. I guess a larger box is better for heat dissipation from the transistors that are mounted directly to the sides of the case. I wouldn't recommend trying to fit the cables and the connections inside the controller case since they will be difficult to access if you need to unplug some connectors and can cause shorts if any connections are exposed so an additional 'black box' is not such a bad idea. I did cut some of the excess cables to make it easier to fit inside the box.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for watching.
Hi Donny, awesome build, looks very neat and the cable management looks very professional. I am trying to understand the wiring of the bms, battery and the battery connector before I try this out myself. at around 13:45 you solder a discharge wire from the battery positive, and at 14:50 it looks like you connect it to the positive lug of the battery connector. There is another "output wire" going to the negative end of the battery connector, but you only filmed the B- and B+ wires being soldered to the battery. Where is this other "output wire" coming from?
is it just the C- from the bms?
Awesome job! Greetings from Germany!
Thank you! Greetings kindly accepted.
I built one using a 1500w motor 48v set up on a shwinn graft dual suspension bike frame and for some reason….the bike can go slightly over 40mph.
I assume the manufacturer who sold me the sine wave controller decided to give me a 45amp programming to it.
I'm going to be building a similar battery 13S7P using an Aliexpress sourced Polly DP-9 battery case and a Daly 13S/40A BMS measuring 61mm x 80mm x 12mm. Would you know whether a BMS of that size will fit without remodelling the case like you did? I was hoping there would be room without major surgery.
Hi, you should be good using a bms like this, it doesn't seem large but I can't tell for sure.
the soldering is next level
How long do u need to replace the battery?
I love the problem solving skills ( rear skills )!!!!
Thank you, I enjoy the full video.
Keep building !
Thank you a lot! Much appreciated.
Great work. Congrats. Where can I buy hum motors or total kit for e-bikes in Europe? What do you recomemd.
Thanks anyway, great video
Thanks! I recommend you check the link or the kit I used in the description. Really low price for reasonable quality. And they ship in Europe.
@@DonnyTerek thanks a lot.
Hi, great video. Do you have a link to the seat? Thanks!
Hi, thank you! It's not a very good saddle to be honest, I would go with something softer next time, something like this: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DeeRtCz
Nice do you have any videos with voice over
Hello, can you tell me if the motor works proportionally to the pedaling without using the accelerator control on the handlebars as for a pedal motor?
Thanks
Hi! Sorry for the late reply. Yes, the motor assist works according to the assist level chosen on the LCD display and it can be used without the throttle handle.
Thanks for the inspiration and technics
Thank you for watching! Hope you learned something new.
Which frame is this you've used? Looks like it has a spacious triangle. Definitely worth going full suspension, it can be quite jarring going over a pothole or drainage cover at speed.
I am still not sure which frame it is, quite an old model though. Well worth going with a full suspension frame for sure.
why is it only has one cog at the back [no gears for up hill or topspeed ] ?
This bike is used mostly on flat roads so it is convenient to have a small gear at the rear for maximum speed while pedalling.
i wonder what if you have motor on wheel and on pedals how fast would that be
doesn't the suspension hit the battery when stressed?
What did you use to glue and hide hide the hole for the charging port?
Just regular two component epoxy resin for plastics.
Very nice build mate what app are you using for bms and link plz
Thanks mate! Check the description where I have placed a link to the BMS app. It is the XiaoXiang app.
@@DonnyTerek nice one buddy 👍stay safe
Sorry about the dumb question, but why having a single speed cassete and using a 7 speed derailleur?
It is simply for keeping the tension on the chain. Other than that is serves no other purpose. There are chain tensioners that you can use instead of a derailleur like I did, but mine did not fit.
What's the cost of converting..?
It’s very cheap, only $9,000. 😂 just kidding just kidding
Approximately $600 USD in total including the kit, battery and drivetrain parts.
@@DonnyTerek how about the connection between the battery and the various cables. Does the vibrations and movements put strain on the junctions and terminals?
@Hassan Jamal If you ask the ebike kit seller, they might solder the right connectors for your needs
Hi, what distance can you travel for 1 charge using electric motor only without paddeling?
Hi! Approximately 35-40km.
Great video, what ah capacity did all your cells add up to? Cheers
Thanks! I believe I got around 19Ah of capacity.
@@DonnyTerek how long is the range? in day to day use?
good job,very beautiful ,welcome to vietnam
Thank you!
That black box is in a vulnerable place
Is still intact after more than 1500km.
Love your magura brakes
Me too.
Amazing work!
Thanks!
Another great build....... I really want an e-bike but I grew up on the wrong side of the tracks and can only afford a $100 (on sale) Mongoose Exhibit bike and $120 motorized bike kit.
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed the video.
is 28Nm enough tightening for a 48v 1000w hub motor ? It seems a bit low to me
That was actually 42 Nm and it is holding well.
Just be warned of the chargers or bms am pants don't leave it charging unattended in the ready made products .....and why the derailleur on the back with 1 cog lol and I gotta get one of them shock absorber without the spring
Amazing video and amazing asmr
Thank you!
Finally, DIY electric bike with great cable management.
Thanks!
Классный байк!
P.S. Но защёлку на цепи не в ту сторону поставил :)
Ur battery assembly looks complicated how much did u save compared to buying one from AliExpress including the spot welder and the other bits which is in the video
I guess I 'saved' 2-300 USD compared to a factory built battery pack.
@@DonnyTerek What pre built battery pack do you recommend for a Bianchi Magma 9.2 21" XL MTB frame? My body weight is 75kg and I plan on riding in the city witch flat terrain. I think a 250w motor is enough for the city but I want the biggest battery I can fit in my frame to get the most range for food deliveries. Loved the video! A reply would be much appreciated!❤
Oh my hell, I watched the whole video, so amazing. I just zip tie everything lol 😂
Haha, thank you a lot!
What's the point of the derailleur if you have a single speed?
Works as a chain tensioner.
18:48 why didnt you put the fluid but before you did when drilling?
It's not necessary for drilling aluminium.
Hi donny,I want to ask ? I have a 1000 watt 48 volt rear engine. so I want a battery that can last 8 or 10 hours a day or the longer the better? so how many volts and ah battery size? because I'm a bicycle food delivery…. Thank you donny
Hi! The needed battery size highly depends on the rider's weight, terrain, speeds, how much you pedal, etc. For a regular DIY e-bike you most likely won't be able to fit more than 20-25 Ah battery. I would suggest you go with a 48V 20Ah battery and check for how long it is enough for you. Perhaps have a second one that you can safely charge while the first one is being used.
if you have a 48 volt motor and controller, use a 48 volt battery.
As for ah, the more the better if you are wanting to ride all day, so fit the biggest you have space for in your frame. 10 hours is a lot though, so you probably want to buy 2 batteries and keep one on charge.
im not a scooter guy but thats some nice specs for a E scooter
Superb build... Totally awesome to watch from start to finish...
Thanks a bunch! Glad you enjoyed it.
@@DonnyTerek Watched a couple of more videos, and you are an artist!
Haha, thanks!
how (ah battery) we need for 1000 watt ????
At least 13Ah I would say.
Sir in India still we use 250w electric cycle 😂
That controller which is huge
can you put a link to show how the layout of the 13s7p in that batter pack case
I don't have a link to the layout, but here's a photo of a factory built battery: bit.ly/3u6yF32 .
Прикольно,вот бы себе такого соседа кто понимал бы так!!!!
Хуйня не едет не хера у меня почти похожий комплект а едет лучше 🤔
that battery build is nutz
but why did you number the batteries
Those are capacity measurements of each cell. Necessary to do for best balance between the cell groups of the battery.
For anyone doing this with rivet nuts. If you have the steel ones use lots of lube while tightening and expanding them. Transfers the energy much better into the rivnut
Awesome! Thanks for the tip, haven't considered applying any lube while installing mine.
@@DonnyTerek i stripped allot of stuff with the steel one but with grease it worked great
Why wouldn't you have put the bms where it was suppose to go instead of melting the plastic battery case?
It doesn't fit.
@@DonnyTerek . It doesn't fit where you put it even more, hence the melting. If you put it in the recessed area, you would have only needed to melt it a little bit near the front.
@@E-BikingAdventures I would actually need to heat the case even more if I were to place the BMS in the recessed area. This would cause a chance to burn through the case and would look really bulky with the front sticking out.
What are the advantages of building your battery yourself other than knowing how well you assembled it? Do the pre-ready ones don't have the temperature readings? Also there are a lot of type of batteries available, what to choose between 36/48/52 V, and what AH choose too? The higher the AH the more charge it can hold? Your videos really makes me want to build one of these ebikes kit but i'm just not sure for the batteries
Well, probably the main advantage is that you save quite a bit by making one yourself and you don't cut corners on quality. Personally I haven't found pre-built battery packs this size with a smart BMS installed that lets you monitor the temperature and other readings. The required voltage of the battery depends on the kit that you are using. Check what your controller can accept. Most of the times if the controller shows that it can handle up to 48V, usually they also work with 52V. This way a higher voltage battery produces more speed. The controller in this kit works with, therefore I use a 48V (13S) battery. I believe it would also work with a 52V (14S) battery, too. The larger the Ah rating, the more distance you can cover in one charge. Depends if you want the bike to go on longer distances, then go with a larger Ah rating - 18 to 21 Ah. Of course the larger Ah rating costs more since it needs more battery cells.
Hope this helps.
@@DonnyTerek Thank you so much for your answer, really informative, i'm even more eager to build my own now !
Awesome, hope I could help a bit. There are tons of info on batteries on the web and TH-cam. Take some time to read or watch a few videos to get at least the basics of voltage and capacity. You will understand the requirements much more easily then.
Best of luck on your future build!
Why would you spend so much time on making a 18650 battery pack when it can roughly give some 500 cycles?
A thermally conducive adhesive, or tape would be better than grease. on the battery temp sensor, even jb weld, or epoxy mixed with powdered aluminum or copper,
I used thermal paste held on with tape.
Šaunuolis, gerai varai! :)
Pirmas video kurį matau, kad šnekėtum ir sakyciau puikiai pavyko. Tavo puiki anglų kalba.
Ačiū! 😁😁
Where are you from, I wish you could build my battery like yours, you know what to do. Nice build, nice changes. I want to make my bike electric, but still don't know what battery I'd good for range, for a motor 48v 1500w rear hub
Hi! I'm located in the EU. Thanks! I'd recommend you go with a 52V (14s) battery with a capacity of at least 18-20Ah. Will give you plenty of speed and range. I used a battery like this in my previous e-bike build video.
@@DonnyTerek where from eu, I'm in 🇪🇺 too. I wish I could get a battery that good, it's a little bit expensive, but it will be very good for range, to go from A to B 20 km distance a land 20 more to came back.
Feel free to contact me by email which you can find in my channel's 'about' section or through Instructables which you can find in the description of other videos if interested.
@@DonnyTerek I will , thank you very much for info. And great video I will use this to guide myself when I'll build mine.
That’s a beautiful battery. I really like that spot welder. I’ll check your description for links.
God Bless.
Thank you! Much work went into this build.
Amazing ebike bro
Thanks! ✌️
A middrive is so much better and fun. But still a great job! 👏👏👏
Hiw did you measure the capacitys on all the cells?
Есть ответ ранее.
Using a dedicated capacity measuring charger. Like this one: amzn.to/3a4ofL0
Hey nice build does the fork perform well and reliable ?do you have a link please ?
Hi, thanks! The fork works great, I believe it is a RockShox Reba air fork, don't have a link for it since it is an old model.
Nice , clear video and a great finished product.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for all the links! Very helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Can i do this bike but i prefer 3 whell bike can i do this
how much cheaper is it building your own battery compared to buying ready built. Lets say a 48v 12ah battery
Highly depends on the components used, but I'd say $200-300USD cheaper to build.
Imagine a RA seeing someone build these batteries in a dorm
Frage, ist es möglich, den Motor in einen Stromgenerator umzuwandeln, der die Batterie auflädt, wenn sie leer ist, und ich sende Ihnen Grüße aus dem Süden Ägyptens
Das geht wohl nur bei getriebelosen Nabenmotoren. Die meisten sind mit Getriebe.
Well done
Thanks!
Awesome build :) - I'm a little scared of you using XT60 connectors for a 1000w application though! :P I use them in the rc-model world but for much smaller things, there are beefier versions that probably suit your thing better.. like XT90 or higher
Hi, thanks!
The XT60s can withstand the high current for quite a while. I haven't noticed any melting around the connector after using it on this build.
XT60's are fine with current setup and 25 amp controller or whatever he is running. They'll take it. No harm going to XT90 though. When going super power, you've got AMAS XT150 connectors or EC8 connectors.
you can easily pull 60A peak battery current through XT60 without worrying about overheating
Hey just some advice when sanding large areas spray a thin coat of paint to get a better idea of your high and low spots , look up guide coat
Haha, tas zalias atsuktuvas is seno konstruktoriaus, irgi turiu :) engineers step nr. 1
Nepamainomas įrankis :D
Làm lõi full 10 đi anh
Que clase de Vicesat es este