Yesterday I was attempting to remove the filler hose only to discover the inner hose. I have a full front tank with a failed pump so I wanted to siphon it out before lowering. The last thing I wanted to do was break something so here I am on youtube and I found your video. Pretty straightforward explanation so that's what I'm doing this morning. Glad the vid is still up for us old Ford owners.
Assuming she runs, another method for relieving the fuel pressure at around 2:00 - on the passenger side interior, you can trigger the inertia switch. It's designed to shut off fuel pumps in the event of a collision. You can raise it manually with a screwdriver. Slightest bit of pressure and it should disengage. Crank the engine and it should die from lack of fuel in about 5-10 seconds. No mess. Once the work is done, just press the inertia switch back down to restore. You can see it press down and re-engage. Should get a slight click. Worked for me anyway. Hopefully it helps someone else as well.
Awesome video brother you really gave me an idea on what should be done when doing such job I'm gonna be swapping out tanks, and pumps. I was also confused on what the moduels and pumps were but you really broke it all down at 9:40 which was really cool this video was really informative from start to finish! I've purchased all parts from the links you provided in the description of the video. I was gonna get a fuel filter is that recommended for this kinda job? I never did a job like this so I'm going in blind thanks for any advice/feedback!
Wow ! This is really fun trying to figure out all the things that could be the cause of no fuel getting to the spark plug, (not even counting the fuel injectors, jets, and ECM,/computer, oh yea and the 3-O2 sensors)When I tried to get my 96 F150 running again after it was rear ended , parked in front of my house, I took it to get smogged. After changing the fuel filter ,the "technician"said it needed 2 fuel pumps (based on low fuel pressure at the schrader valve)and 3 -O2 sensors $1600 estimate,($80 additional for a $6 filter change, I said forget it ,I'll fix it my self.(Having done the midship tanks pump a year earlier and learning how to correctly remove the fuel line clips and connectors) Now to decide which of the 200 fuel pumps Ishould get to fit the 10 different sized gas tanks I could have, I'm thinking ,do I really have a bad fuel pump? It could be the fuse ,relay,wiring,clogged fuel strainer in tank, bad valve on the fuel tank selector valve ,when I switched tanks the fuel gauge went 3/4 of an inch passed full !.So I think I'll start on the rear tanks pump , stick it in a bucket and see if it works.(By the way I started to say thanks for your video! If I could mention 2 things(1, after telling about how much fuel vapor will be in the tank ,you proceeded to use a metal object to loosen the retaining ring! Well not a very good idea because it could give off a spark and go boom ,big time ! Better to use a wood dowel ,popsicle stick, anything plastic.(2, most of the other videos say to disconnect the negative terminal wire from the battery .Well that's all for me right now , thanks again! rodski
Could you take your fuel line off of your fuel filter and prime your fuel pump with the key forward . If no gas is getting shot through the line it's a bad pump?
Me and my son gonna replace pump and front tank on his 95 F150. I know how to do it but it doesn’t hurt to watch a video just in case I for get a process. A brush up if you will. Thanks for the video
can I just replace one fuel pump and run off of that tank until I purchase the other? And if I can which tank would be the one I should run off? Front or rear? Would appreciate your advice:)
Foxboss, thanks for the video. Was wondering if you encountered any anti-siphon gear in the fuel filler line. I want to be able to siphon fuel for my gas cans, but my siphon hose seems to dead-end about 2 feet in.I have a '96 SC with dual tanks. I seem to have my own version of the "check valve" issue. Maybe. Don't know for sure. I run the selector switch on the front tank, but the rear tank feeds until it's at about 1/4 tank, then the front tank begins feeding. By the time the front tank reads 1/4 to 1/8, the rear tank is reading pretty much empty. Never runs out of gas though, so not too worried. Eventually will need to figure out what's happening and fix it though.
binovc69 Thanks for watching... The truck doesn't have anti-siphon features but the hose I used was greased with white lithium and it was smaller than 5/8 heater hose I used... Plus it took me a few "stabs" before I got it to go in... If you are having a migration problem it might be best just to replace both pumps and save the headache of troubleshooting..
great video im gonna have to change mine not a great mechanic but im broke still debating buying it all or just the module wish you showed more of the labor but thanks
+jhill0962 it's not a hard job, and pretty srtaighforward(other than the rusted parts) HOWEVER BE CAUTIOUS with gasoline and sparks.. try to empty as much fuel out as possible.. and remember Gasoline, the liquid part, isn't what normally cause explosions IT IS THE FUMES.. good luck
+Foxboss9 ya i will i got a siphon and thanks for the parts link im gonna order it all and just keep it simple looks like i can save 60 bucks appreciate you
I couldn't help but lmao when i seen your reply for i said the exact same thing to myself as i watching, then i scroll down to put in mt two cents and what'cha know....... Anyhow, Thanks for .......
Just had to replace the front tank and pump in my 96 F150...the outlet check valve failed in the front pump and when I used the rear tank the front tank would fill.
Question, I pulled a very very rough rear pump from a 94 F-150, the wires are broken at the very top for the pump, I have a new assembly, and a strainer. Questions are, can't I just drill a tiny hole in the bracket, put a rubber bushing in the hole and fish the wires through, wire them in, and seal the hole with a sealant? The other question is, the float was rusted off, it hadn't been used in at least 15 years judging from what was in that tank, which is also being replaced. I have a float from a 99 Explorer Sport, will that work equally well? I haven't looked at mounting yet but assuming it bolts up, it'll work?
You need to replace the hanger unit too.. I know it's more money but the last thing you want is questionable wiring around fuel vapors.. For the sending unit to be accurate the float has to be the right one.. An explorer and expedition tanks are both different..
Well there's enough slack to get the wires clean outside the housing before you have to touch them. I've always been of the thought that every Ford float was essentially the same one, and that the mounting location/arm controlled the reading. Which I'm not normally working on F-Series trucks anyhow, I have a pair of Explorers to abide my time, they seem simpler in some ways.
Oh one other thing , if one tank is empty ,does that fuel pump keep running ? I heard that the rear tank will allow gas to transfer to the front( midship)tank, can the front tank's gas go to the rear tank. ?Thanks, rodski
Great video. I'm replacing mine. But just the pump. I paid more for the pump$40 ac delco. than the module $20 on eBay. Did it bcuz Chinese eBay parts may fail faster.
Thanks for watching I appreciate you staying with me.... The pump has been working flawlessly but sometime I forget which tank I install it in... which is a good thing because the other tank is running a factory Ford Motorcraft pump and I haven't noticed any difference in performance or noise at all.
got the pump installed today had to stop first the new pump off amazon sp2006h mounted at about 180 degrees so i had to buy hose and extend it . now i had to stop due to the wiring diagram it doesnt match my 93 fords trucks wires im assuming my two skinny on my trucks wires go to the sender and the two fat wires go to the pump however i have a fat orange wire left on the harness and a small black wire on my truck there is no orange on the diagram they sent any idea
The SP2006H fits a 18/19 gallon front tank. If you have that tank and the pump doesn't match exactly then I would not modify the fuel lines or the wiring. What you should do is go to Spectre's Web site and look up your vehicle on their electronic catalog and see what fuel pump options show up (they have pictures). I would buy the pump that matches yours.. I have never hardwired a factory electric fuel pump so I am not sure which wires to use.. The fuel pump being 180 degree off doesn't quite make sense did you mark the original direction the tube faced? I know that the pump can be mounted in all different directions. You could have possibly notched the tank hole to have the pump locating tabs line up. Sorry I couldn't be more help on the wiring part. I just never had to do it.. When the weather gets warmer and dryer(not sure when that will happen) I will be changing the front pump on my F250 and I am going to do a video on how to remove the rear 19 gallon tank and install a 38 gallon tank. Again, I don't think that will happen for another couple of weeks..
Foxboss9 he could have the 16 gallon tank. The parts store gave me the wrong pump, which is for a short bed 16 gallon front tank(Sp2005h), so I had to pull back apart a few months later since it quit working. My mistake for not taking part to compare but I assumed tanks were same size all around. I now have the right pump and works fine. Word of caution to those replacing sending unit and pump, the wiring instructions can be confusing because colored wires for aftermarket harness are not the same as factory and the instructions are not exactly translating every wire to wire match.
Hello again! I'm measuring 9.8V at the tank selector switch as well as at the fuel pumps. Zero fuel pressure but it sounds like the pumps actually turn on like they should? One weird thing that occurs once in a while is the pumps will come on and stay on. Right now the truck cranks but no start
Okay understood. So I've been looking for things for check and Ive read that a failing/faulty PCM could cause the pumps to stay running. The truck has done this before but it's very intermittent. I got it to start on some throttle body cleaner
No this pump was randomly loosing pressure under heavy acceleration.... Funny thing though my F250 is having the a check valve problem on the front tank letting fuel get pumped in from the rear tank..I talk about this in this video HERE -- th-cam.com/video/xNNTYQiM61I/w-d-xo.html ..... I'll be replacing both pumps and doing the 38 gallon rear tank conversion on my f250 this summer..
+Foxboss9 +Foxboss9 I replaced both pumps yesterday because of the check valve problem. '96 f150 i6 and it was a bear of a job! I'm currently trying to get rid of a check engine light due to lean codes. I have also replaced a bunch of vacuum lines, cleaned/tested mafs, and replaced fuel filter. I don't know if this is going to solve the problem or not but the fuel was migrating and the pressure on the rail was only at 35 psi. We will see! I'll also check out that other video!
+Nic Dow if you haven't already, change the fuel filter. Also, make sure to check the fuel pressure regulator.. With that said and the fact that you have already done both pumps I would do the penny with an 1/8 inch hole drilled through it installed in the EGR tube where it connects to the EGR. Only if you don't have emissions testing. After checking all the vacuum lines(especially that rusty vacuum reservoir cannister AKA the coffee can) I would carefully spray the warm, running engine with carb cleaner around the intake listening for RPM changes indicating and pin pointing air leaks.. I'm sure you will eventually find the problem. It's much easier looking for air leaks then electrical issues.. Good luck..
I did previously change the fuel filter. I have finally driven the truck since posting last; 150 miles to be exact. The check engine light has not come back on and it is running way better! I live in the Houston area so emissions are definitely an issue. I'll be getting it inspected this week but I think my immediate problems are solved! Thanks for the videos!
16:20 For my labor, gonna give that new pump a quick "smoke test" before mounting in the tank. Just a quick spin with direct electrical connect to a battery to KNOW that I didn't get the one in a thousand lemons they produce. One in a hundred lemons if you shop at O-Reilly.
I sold the truck and now have a F250HD 460.. I bought Airtex for my new trucks front tank. HOWEVER, I installed a carter fuel pump in the rear of my truck(converted to 38 gallon tank) and comparing the pumps the CARTER is made much better(but is also twice as much) Here is a link for the CARTER brand pumps, Front HERE -- amzn.to/2bBHk90 Rear HERE -- amzn.to/2bNxEUW
The easiest answer is that when submerged there isn't enough oxygen to burn or explode.. However When the tank is almost completely empty, if a wire or connection came slightly loose, just enough to cause an arc, I am sure it could be an issue.. I think the chances are pretty slim though..
johnny mendoza on many of the F150s there is only one pump per tank. When switched to the front tank you're running on the front pump and of course when you switch to the rear tank you're running on the rear tanks one pump. So yes you can run on one fuel pump. Now there are some earlier F-150s that had an additional Pusher pump to help get the fuel up to the engine because the end tank pumps we're just not enough to get it done on their own. But like on my F150 and of course my F250 when I have my fuel tank selector switch on the dash indicating front or rear it's running on a single in-tank fuel pump.
johnny mendoza yes.. People do it all the time until they can afford to replace the bad one... The only issue is that sometimes a bad pump is allow gas to be pumped in tank from the good pump.. Because the pumps also act as check valves, so when one pump is running it is pumping gas to the engine instead of filling the other tank...
You think it would be easier to lift the bed instead? I changed the fuel pump on my moms ranger that way. I was messing with it trying to get everything on the ground for a good 2hrs. I gave up and took the bed off. Finished the job in 30min. I dont wanna be on the same boat again and waste time :/
A ranger bed is more easily removed compared to a 8 foot bed on a full size pick up. Even with that, the hardware on these trucks in the Rust Belt have a tendency to be pretty seized up. And if you go to Ford and get the replacement bolts, because they are kind of unique, they are not cheap somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 a bolt. So for me to remove the bed of this truck would require more than one person or a crane of some sort and potentially spending quite a bit of money on Hardware. Plus I have a cap on my truck. So, in your case it's most likely easier to pull the bed, in my case I can do 2 gas tank pump repairs in the time that it would take 2 take off the bed just once.
@@Foxboss9 im gonna go ahead and try dropping the tank again. Ive got a 92 flareside with a tool box and liner. Its gonna take at least an extra hour to get them off. And you're right, id have to get at least 3 other people to help take the bed off.
Yesterday I was attempting to remove the filler hose only to discover the inner hose. I have a full front tank with a failed pump so I wanted to siphon it out before lowering. The last thing I wanted to do was break something so here I am on youtube and I found your video. Pretty straightforward explanation so that's what I'm doing this morning. Glad the vid is still up for us old Ford owners.
Have replaced a lot of fuel pumps over the years and getting ready to do it again on my 94 150. This is one of the better videos I've seen Good job.
👍😁
how does the tubes come out? is there a clip or what please?
Well done! You are a great teacher! You're patient and your directions and information are clear and thorough! Thank you!
Wow. One of the most thorough explanations I’ve seen.
Foxboss your videos are awesome! I like how you share your knowledge and want people to learn!
Thanks partner! I appreciate the comment.
I just bought a 1995 F-350 and I need to do this... It is so much easier with a flatbed truck, just remove two boards and the tank is right there.
Assuming she runs, another method for relieving the fuel pressure at around 2:00 - on the passenger side interior, you can trigger the inertia switch. It's designed to shut off fuel pumps in the event of a collision. You can raise it manually with a screwdriver. Slightest bit of pressure and it should disengage. Crank the engine and it should die from lack of fuel in about 5-10 seconds. No mess. Once the work is done, just press the inertia switch back down to restore. You can see it press down and re-engage. Should get a slight click. Worked for me anyway. Hopefully it helps someone else as well.
A most thorough and informative video. I really appreciate the info that you've shared; it saved me a lot of guesswork and time.
Incredibly well done DIY. Thank you for your video!
My 1995 F150 has a rear rank only.
Do you have to replace the entire pump or just the pump itself from the unit?
Is the module universal between the different size tanks I know the hangers are different but I need to figure out before ordering any pump
On one of your videos you installed a 4 core radiator into you 1997 Ford F-250 from Advance auto without giving a part #?
Awesome video brother you really gave me an idea on what should be done when doing such job I'm gonna be swapping out tanks, and pumps. I was also confused on what the moduels and pumps were but you really broke it all down at 9:40 which was really cool this video was really informative from start to finish! I've purchased all parts from the links you provided in the description of the video.
I was gonna get a fuel filter is that recommended for this kinda job? I never did a job like this so I'm going in blind thanks for any advice/feedback!
Wow ! This is really fun trying to figure out all the things that could be the cause of no fuel getting to the spark plug, (not even counting the fuel injectors, jets, and ECM,/computer, oh yea and the 3-O2 sensors)When I tried to get my 96 F150 running again after it was rear ended , parked in front of my house, I took it to get smogged. After changing the fuel filter ,the "technician"said it needed 2 fuel pumps (based on low fuel pressure at the schrader valve)and 3 -O2 sensors $1600 estimate,($80 additional for a $6 filter change, I said forget it ,I'll fix it my self.(Having done the midship tanks pump a year earlier and learning how to correctly remove the fuel line clips and connectors) Now to decide which of the 200 fuel pumps Ishould get to fit the 10 different sized gas tanks I could have, I'm thinking ,do I really have a bad fuel pump? It could be the fuse ,relay,wiring,clogged fuel strainer in tank, bad valve on the fuel tank selector valve ,when I switched tanks the fuel gauge went 3/4 of an inch passed full !.So I think I'll start on the rear tanks pump , stick it in a bucket and see if it works.(By the way I started to say thanks for your video! If I could mention 2 things(1, after telling about how much fuel vapor will be in the tank ,you proceeded to use a metal object to loosen the retaining ring! Well not a very good idea because it could give off a spark and go boom ,big time ! Better to use a wood dowel ,popsicle stick, anything plastic.(2, most of the other videos say to disconnect the negative terminal wire from the battery .Well that's all for me right now , thanks again! rodski
Could you take your fuel line off of your fuel filter and prime your fuel pump with the key forward . If no gas is getting shot through the line it's a bad pump?
Yes or no power to the pump
Me and my son gonna replace pump and front tank on his 95 F150. I know how to do it but it doesn’t hurt to watch a video just in case I for get a process. A brush up if you will. Thanks for the video
🙂👍
Will that specific full module kit for the 19 gal tank fit my rear tank?
Edit: The complete assembly
Well done much appreciated. Awesome workmanship
can I just replace one fuel pump and run off of that tank until I purchase the other? And if I can which tank would be the one I should run off? Front or rear? Would appreciate your advice:)
Foxboss, thanks for the video. Was wondering if you encountered any anti-siphon gear in the fuel filler line. I want to be able to siphon fuel for my gas cans, but my siphon hose seems to dead-end about 2 feet in.I have a '96 SC with dual tanks. I seem to have my own version of the "check valve" issue. Maybe. Don't know for sure. I run the selector switch on the front tank, but the rear tank feeds until it's at about 1/4 tank, then the front tank begins feeding. By the time the front tank reads 1/4 to 1/8, the rear tank is reading pretty much empty. Never runs out of gas though, so not too worried. Eventually will need to figure out what's happening and fix it though.
binovc69 Thanks for watching... The truck doesn't have anti-siphon features but the hose I used was greased with white lithium and it was smaller than 5/8 heater hose I used... Plus it took me a few "stabs" before I got it to go in... If you are having a migration problem it might be best just to replace both pumps and save the headache of troubleshooting..
Thanks Foxboss. I probably need a slightly smaller siphon hose, and maybe a bit more flexible. The one I have is a polyethylene, kinda stiff.
Excellent!,. Your the man,. Thank for the informative video's.
great video im gonna have to change mine not a great mechanic but im broke still debating buying it all or just the module wish you showed more of the labor but thanks
+jhill0962 it's not a hard job, and pretty srtaighforward(other than the rusted parts) HOWEVER BE CAUTIOUS with gasoline and sparks.. try to empty as much fuel out as possible.. and remember Gasoline, the liquid part, isn't what normally cause explosions IT IS THE FUMES.. good luck
+Foxboss9 ya i will i got a siphon and thanks for the parts link im gonna order it all and just keep it simple looks like i can save 60 bucks appreciate you
+jhill0962 and good point about the sparks ill keep that in mind and use some wd 40 so i dont do a whole lot of beating and sparking
+jhill0962 sounds like a plan. 😀 thanks for watching 👍
+Foxboss9 got my pump today i wish you would show some of the actual removal parts can you suggest any video
that was a very thorough and informative video. incredibly helpful, even though I'm doing the rear tank. steps are very similar. so thank you
😁
I couldn't help but lmao when i seen your reply for i said the exact same thing to myself as i watching, then i scroll down to put in mt two cents and what'cha know.......
Anyhow, Thanks for .......
Legendary. You’re an America hero
Lol
Just had to replace the front tank and pump in my 96 F150...the outlet check valve failed in the front pump and when I used the rear tank the front tank would fill.
Question, I pulled a very very rough rear pump from a 94 F-150, the wires are broken at the very top for the pump, I have a new assembly, and a strainer. Questions are, can't I just drill a tiny hole in the bracket, put a rubber bushing in the hole and fish the wires through, wire them in, and seal the hole with a sealant? The other question is, the float was rusted off, it hadn't been used in at least 15 years judging from what was in that tank, which is also being replaced. I have a float from a 99 Explorer Sport, will that work equally well? I haven't looked at mounting yet but assuming it bolts up, it'll work?
You need to replace the hanger unit too.. I know it's more money but the last thing you want is questionable wiring around fuel vapors.. For the sending unit to be accurate the float has to be the right one.. An explorer and expedition tanks are both different..
Well there's enough slack to get the wires clean outside the housing before you have to touch them. I've always been of the thought that every Ford float was essentially the same one, and that the mounting location/arm controlled the reading. Which I'm not normally working on F-Series trucks anyhow, I have a pair of Explorers to abide my time, they seem simpler in some ways.
BronzeChicken
It's original eh.
BronzeChicken i need awawy to now what colors codes on pump wiring is
Oh one other thing , if one tank is empty ,does that fuel pump keep running ? I heard that the rear tank will allow gas to transfer to the front( midship)tank, can the front tank's gas go to the rear tank. ?Thanks, rodski
Rodney Smith f150
Excellent - just what I needed to know to do the job with confidence
👍😁
FB9 what do the voltage or ohms should be on the fuel switch button and the inertia switch???
Great video. I'm replacing mine. But just the pump. I paid more for the pump$40 ac delco. than the module $20 on eBay. Did it bcuz Chinese eBay parts may fail faster.
Thanks very helpful. Edited down good I didn't feel alot of wasted time in explanation.
Rick Babcock 👍😁
enjoy your videos Foxboss, how do you like that pump module you installed in this video, is it still alive after 13 months?
Thanks for watching I appreciate you staying with me.... The pump has been working flawlessly but sometime I forget which tank I install it in... which is a good thing because the other tank is running a factory Ford Motorcraft pump and I haven't noticed any difference in performance or noise at all.
got the pump installed today had to stop first the new pump off amazon sp2006h mounted at about 180 degrees so i had to buy hose and extend it . now i had to stop due to the wiring diagram it doesnt match my 93 fords trucks wires im assuming my two skinny on my trucks wires go to the sender and the two fat wires go to the pump however i have a fat orange wire left on the harness and a small black wire on my truck there is no orange on the diagram they sent any idea
The SP2006H fits a 18/19 gallon front tank. If you have that tank and the pump doesn't match exactly then I would not modify the fuel lines or the wiring. What you should do is go to Spectre's Web site and look up your vehicle on their electronic catalog and see what fuel pump options show up (they have pictures). I would buy the pump that matches yours.. I have never hardwired a factory electric fuel pump so I am not sure which wires to use..
The fuel pump being 180 degree off doesn't quite make sense did you mark the original direction the tube faced? I know that the pump can be mounted in all different directions. You could have possibly notched the tank hole to have the pump locating tabs line up. Sorry I couldn't be more help on the wiring part. I just never had to do it..
When the weather gets warmer and dryer(not sure when that will happen) I will be changing the front pump on my F250 and I am going to do a video on how to remove the rear 19 gallon tank and install a 38 gallon tank. Again, I don't think that will happen for another couple of weeks..
Foxboss9 he could have the 16 gallon tank. The parts store gave me the wrong pump, which is for a short bed 16 gallon front tank(Sp2005h), so I had to pull back apart a few months later since it quit working. My mistake for not taking part to compare but I assumed tanks were same size all around. I now have the right pump and works fine. Word of caution to those replacing sending unit and pump, the wiring instructions can be confusing because colored wires for aftermarket harness are not the same as factory and the instructions are not exactly translating every wire to wire match.
Hello again! I'm measuring 9.8V at the tank selector switch as well as at the fuel pumps. Zero fuel pressure but it sounds like the pumps actually turn on like they should? One weird thing that occurs once in a while is the pumps will come on and stay on. Right now the truck cranks but no start
J sapien 9.8 volts is entirely too low
Okay understood. So I've been looking for things for check and Ive read that a failing/faulty PCM could cause the pumps to stay running. The truck has done this before but it's very intermittent. I got it to start on some throttle body cleaner
Is the fuel pump circuit supposed to maintain 12v or only reach then drop out? I have no fuel pressure and cannot hear the pumps cycle on
J sapien the pump only runs as pressure drops below required demand...
I'm a little confused sorry, I'm checking for that initial pressure
Was your pump simply running rough or not at all? Or did you change the pump because of the notorious "duel tank fuel migration"?
No this pump was randomly loosing pressure under heavy acceleration.... Funny thing though my F250 is having the a check valve problem on the front tank letting fuel get pumped in from the rear tank..I talk about this in this video HERE -- th-cam.com/video/xNNTYQiM61I/w-d-xo.html ..... I'll be replacing both pumps and doing the 38 gallon rear tank conversion on my f250 this summer..
+Foxboss9 +Foxboss9 I replaced both pumps yesterday because of the check valve problem. '96 f150 i6 and it was a bear of a job! I'm currently trying to get rid of a check engine light due to lean codes. I have also replaced a bunch of vacuum lines, cleaned/tested mafs, and replaced fuel filter. I don't know if this is going to solve the problem or not but the fuel was migrating and the pressure on the rail was only at 35 psi. We will see! I'll also check out that other video!
+Nic Dow if you haven't already, change the fuel filter. Also, make sure to check the fuel pressure regulator.. With that said and the fact that you have already done both pumps I would do the penny with an 1/8 inch hole drilled through it installed in the EGR tube where it connects to the EGR. Only if you don't have emissions testing. After checking all the vacuum lines(especially that rusty vacuum reservoir cannister AKA the coffee can) I would carefully spray the warm, running engine with carb cleaner around the intake listening for RPM changes indicating and pin pointing air leaks.. I'm sure you will eventually find the problem. It's much easier looking for air leaks then electrical issues.. Good luck..
I did previously change the fuel filter. I have finally driven the truck since posting last; 150 miles to be exact. The check engine light has not come back on and it is running way better! I live in the Houston area so emissions are definitely an issue. I'll be getting it inspected this week but I think my immediate problems are solved! Thanks for the videos!
+Nic Dow All good things.. Great to hear... Thanks for the follow-up..
16:20 For my labor, gonna give that new pump a quick "smoke test" before mounting in the tank. Just a quick spin with direct electrical connect to a battery to KNOW that I didn't get the one in a thousand lemons they produce. One in a hundred lemons if you shop at O-Reilly.
Freaking awesome video! Perfect explanation! Thank you very very much!
Very good tutorial. Thanks.
Why didn't you show the tubes coming out of the pump itself being removed using the wedge in order to pry it up?
What’s the breather plug called I need to buy the rubber it fell apart when I pulled it out
Not sure. You may want to try to look it up on a Ford parts site
@Foxboss9 Is this pump still working for you?
I sold the truck and now have a F250HD 460.. I bought Airtex for my new trucks front tank.
HOWEVER, I installed a carter fuel pump in the rear of my truck(converted to 38 gallon tank) and comparing the pumps the CARTER is made much better(but is also twice as much) Here is a link for the CARTER brand pumps, Front HERE -- amzn.to/2bBHk90 Rear HERE -- amzn.to/2bNxEUW
Question The wires were cut and connected with connectors why is that not a fire hazard submerged in fuel and fumes
The easiest answer is that when submerged there isn't enough oxygen to burn or explode.. However When the tank is almost completely empty, if a wire or connection came slightly loose, just enough to cause an arc, I am sure it could be an issue.. I think the chances are pretty slim though..
You would need oxygen for a 🔥
@@zachkinnison6390 That seems correct...but with the vent I suspect that could provide the oxygen...but idk...just thinking out loud.
Great video. Thanks
Great video, very informational thanks...
👍😁
How about the wiring harness the colors
Very good video thanks
👍😁
Another thing, awesome video!
Thank you!!!
That was great! Thanks
👍😁
you did not show how to use the hose remover
Can i run my 95 f150 with one fuel pump
johnny mendoza on many of the F150s there is only one pump per tank. When switched to the front tank you're running on the front pump and of course when you switch to the rear tank you're running on the rear tanks one pump. So yes you can run on one fuel pump. Now there are some earlier F-150s that had an additional Pusher pump to help get the fuel up to the engine because the end tank pumps we're just not enough to get it done on their own. But like on my F150 and of course my F250 when I have my fuel tank selector switch on the dash indicating front or rear it's running on a single in-tank fuel pump.
Foxboss9 so if one fuel pump is bad i can still only use the other without damaging the fuel system?
johnny mendoza yes.. People do it all the time until they can afford to replace the bad one... The only issue is that sometimes a bad pump is allow gas to be pumped in tank from the good pump.. Because the pumps also act as check valves, so when one pump is running it is pumping gas to the engine instead of filling the other tank...
Has anyone solder the wires and used heat shrink??
J Cortes if you secure the wires with wire ties to the pump so they don't vibrate there really is no reason to.
You think it would be easier to lift the bed instead?
I changed the fuel pump on my moms ranger that way. I was messing with it trying to get everything on the ground for a good 2hrs. I gave up and took the bed off. Finished the job in 30min.
I dont wanna be on the same boat again and waste time :/
A ranger bed is more easily removed compared to a 8 foot bed on a full size pick up. Even with that, the hardware on these trucks in the Rust Belt have a tendency to be pretty seized up. And if you go to Ford and get the replacement bolts, because they are kind of unique, they are not cheap somewhere in the neighborhood of $15 a bolt. So for me to remove the bed of this truck would require more than one person or a crane of some sort and potentially spending quite a bit of money on Hardware. Plus I have a cap on my truck. So, in your case it's most likely easier to pull the bed, in my case I can do 2 gas tank pump repairs in the time that it would take 2 take off the bed just once.
@@Foxboss9 im gonna go ahead and try dropping the tank again. Ive got a 92 flareside with a tool box and liner. Its gonna take at least an extra hour to get them off. And you're right, id have to get at least 3 other people to help take the bed off.
that filler neck is sure rusted up