Since March?! Oh man I could not for the life of me have that many cells near me without them cycling daily 😂 how could you sleep at night?! I always feel guilty if a battery is not connected to my system. Those busbars you got are amazing!!! They have everything!!!! Wow!
They look great. Thanks for going through all the trouble to find a great product and share the info with all of us. The construction looks the same as what we pull from Volvo batteries, I wonder if it's the same company.
I bought a bunch of these in 3 different sizes. Cost was $107 US delivered and took 20 days. Very nice bars just as described. They are in service and work as expected.
Wow, I like those buss bars, now if I could only afford to buy cells and replace my dead AGM batteries because winter is coming and I live in my old bus full-time. Keep up the good work and stay safe and charged
Very cool find. It is perfect for those who are building custom battery pack(s) for mobile applications. Anything on a mobile platform especially RV’s, vans, etc. are like earthquakes on wheels. No matter how solidly it is built, it’s gonna move and stress out the terminals over time. Anything that will help mitigate a potential point of failure is cheap insurance and not having to deal with the headaches down the road. Just my 2 cents for whatever it is worth…
Great video ! I am shocked that no one else has made the concerns you had noted as theirs too ! I am long term protech in automotive field and every concern you noted is why my systems have worked better than most in my industry & kept going after others quit due to poor design of an actual working environment ! I've wondered why so many schools graduate people and haven't yet taught them proper installation techniques ! It may work on classroom whiteboard but what happens when it's in real world with vibration , temperature and chemical composition considerations over time ? Great that you are at forefront.
I've had these on my aliexpress list for the last week for my EVE 304ah Cells, deciding it they are worth it. after watching your video, i ordered them, the look like they are worth the extra $$$
Oh My! These are the sweetest busbars I've ever seen. And, they'll work on these very large cells (after usage & swelling no less!) I really, really like the thin layers that are snug but not compressed at the ends for the required flexibility over time. I'm thinking that they will not loosen the anode/cathode bolts over time and THEY will flex instead of the nuts holding them. Pricey, but- a genuinely viable answer to ALL of your concerns. I think WP (see post above) was surprised at how well the 'stock' busbars conducted power between cells, but, these must be amazing! Other than price, these bring everything together nicely. Literally!
Great Research dude.. with a Nice buss bar result.. cool! They look terrific to me! I have four 48vdc batteries I built with EVE 280ah cells (64 total cells) using the original buss bars. I have mine lightly compressed using threaded rod and 3/4” MDF (medium density fiberboard) My cells swell very little.. actually almost nothing so far. Because I’m running four 48v batteries in parallel, an individual battery only needs to produce maybe 30 ~ 40 amps max. And during the charge cycle I’ve only seen 45 amp charge on any single battery. I run 48v min to 56v max on my charge/discharge cycle. I have been running my cells a few months now and tried to slide in a thin resistance pressure monitor to measure the pressure.. but the cells seem to have no measurable swelling difference between 56v and 48v. All that said.. I might still buy your newly discovered buss bars! Things change.. and sometimes quickly! Thanks pal ✌️PT
I'm an engineer (not electrical... guess by my name) BUT, I am an avid radio ham. Lots of hams used braided cable, grounding strap, flexible ground cable - it goes by many names. It might not be the cheapest solution but it's good, primarily because they have MORE current capacity than a sold piece of metal.
Good find! Question: What do you think about using Noalox between the bus bar and battery post? Noalox Anti-Oxidant is specifically made to improve the service life and efficiency of aluminum electrical connections in commercial or industrial applications. The anti-oxidant compound contains suspended zinc particles to penetrate and cut aluminum oxidation.
Awesome find, thanks for the research and testing - ordered 21 on your affiliate link, perfect for our RV install and aleiviating vibration concerns - Cheers!
The main question: how many amps do you put in and out of the pack? If less than 50 or 40, just get some 4 mm2 solid copper wire (if around 20 amps, 2.5 mm2 will do) cut it in lengths, do a nice round 360 loop ( 360 only , no more, no overlapping) at each end, do it with pliers around a bolt, very easy to do, then S shape it a bit,and use that,no need for buss bars ,those are for 100 amps and up; and the wires are flexible, no strain on the cell terminals; i use that simple system to parallel the cells for the initial charge to 3.65 volts, since usually there are never enough buss bars of the right size.
The slot is to accomodate any space between the cells, whether it be from bloating or by design (foam, plastic spacers, etc). As long as what ever you're cutting is flexible, I think you'll be fine. I don't consider solid pieces of metal as a busbar to be a good idea.
Oh this post is just the ticket - I hated the thin ridged ones that came with my 320ah cells - I've just ordered these for my RV leisure battery. I see your post is attracting the TH-cams solar/ lithium hierarchy !
I’d be curious to see the contact resistance of your bus bar. This might just be a few mOhms but can make a huge difference in the performance of your battery pack. For commercial systems this is a routine check, typically down with a RM3545 or a RM3548.
In your plan that you show in another video you used also bars with 3 hole,i suppose that hey where cut from the 4 hole busbars and that did not give any problem But you used in your 2 left battery’s on the front to connect them like in a square,did you order these special made or what’s used for this?i am not sure if it’s right to connect this in a square( like i see it in the video)or only u-form What’s the pro or con for use 2p16s against 2 packs 16 s Thanks
Lithium, Thanks for the up-date on those style of buss bars, they look like a great solution. I do have a question. I want to drill and tap for a small screw to be able to attach the sense leads for the BMS onto the buss bars. Have you tried to drill and tap those layered buss bars? I ordered a bunch already, just wondered if you knew it the held together well enough to tap out a small hole. Thanks
Yes, I was successful in drill/tapping M3 threads in the part of the busbar that's compressed/solid. There's not a lot of room though and have to be mindful where the hole is so the screw clears the plastic part of the terminal when you set it on the cell.
I am interested in the way how to connect this to the leads from Barium BMS,is it possible to tap them also to fix the leads or just bolt them Also is there any advantage in 2p16s to 2 times 16 s to connect the batteries Thanks
In addition: I ordered 16 280K cells with 2 M6 screwholes in each terminal. Hoping that the company who sold you these busbars will make these for the K version too.
Yes, you can cut it down to 3 holes. I did this with 2 of them as my batteries sit in 3 rows on the shelf, 2 rows of 11 and 1 row of 10. I just used a hack saw.
Those look very nice. Is it possible to drill holes in the pressed part and tap some thread for balancing wires? (instead of re-using the cell terminals for that)
Yes, I did just this and it worked out great. I just had to be careful not to drill too close to the terminal to make sure the balance screw would clear the plastic post below. Prior to this, I tried soldering leads on and that was an absolute failure! Lol.
@@LithiumSolar Alright, thanks. I've crimped braid myself as I'm working on a RV system, so besides expansion, I also expect vibration. These busbars look so clean and easier. Looking forward to your video where you cut the isolation ;)
Would oxidation between busbars increase IR similar to stranded wire. Tapping holes for sense wires thru multiple layers of conductor are you concerned about accurate readings.
Those are the nicest buss bars I have ever seen, they definitely skimp on that when u purchase cells. I wonder if 0 gauge wire would perform up to that standard from terminal to terminal...good video
I was going to ask about busbars as i was looking at those too. This cleared things up for me. Thanks. Also although the basic bus bars are $1 you do need 3 to connect what the $7 ones connect right?
I don't understand the aversion to flexible cables and crimped terminals. Such short lengths of oversized cables with properly crimped terminals are more than capable of carrying huge currents without any voltage drop and also allow massive amounts of movement without stressing the connection. In installations with possible vibration such as vehicles or boats they are far less likely to have connection issues due to vibration. They also have the benefit that the terminals do not have slotted holes that reduce contact area. Plus they are cheap!
Starter motor leads are crimped, they rarely fail IME 🤔 I've allways been told current flows on the outside of cables so multi strand are better than single strand so what happens with a solid bussbar ? Genuine question, i know a bussbar has a large surface area so i assume multi layer bussbars are better than solid 🤔
I don't understand it either. A short length of 2 AWG is good for almost 200 amps which is probably much more than the sustained load on his pack, and a connector crimped with 16 tons of force can handle much more current that those straps torqued to 4-5 Nm on the studs. I arranged all of my 280 amp cells in the same direction (all + terminals at top, all - terminals at bottom) connected them in series with 3" 2 AWG crimped jumpers arranged at an angle. I cut them just a little bit too long so they are in a very slight C shape which gives them a little room to flex. The 2/0 cables from the pack to the inverter get warmer than the 2 AWG cell jumpers under heavy load.
It's simple guys. He wants a show-piece for his batteries. That's it. Has nothing to do with performance. Our entire grid is held together with crimps and butt-splices, it works fine and seldom fails. Think about it, there's at least 30 breakers in your panel, 30 set screws x 2, 60. Plus 2-3 connections (minimum) per receptical/switch in your house. Plus light fixtures. If I were to haphazardly guess: my low-ball would be 300 electrical splice-like connections per 'average' home. Plus 6 for the meter box, 3 splices for overhead, plus the transformer connections. There are 11 connections that can see in the ballpark of 200A. Only god knows how many splices exist in the distribution, transmissions, generating stations and substations. Sooo......
Don´t you see the terminals would n´t move apart from each other, but just each cell bulge slightly into the foam? But I´m using the flexible bars anyway, already for some two years, on the obligatory 96v battery.
I calculated that it would take three, one inch wide ground straps to equate a common bus bar. That would require tinning the bolts area under compression, then punching a hole. I just wish we could get theses flexible bus bars quicker, because I’d rather not have to make them the hard way.
In a mobile application fine, a little added protection but the batteries should be in a FIXTURE clamped down. In the specs for these batteries it says nothing about compression. the foam is not needed in between but a gap is so they can expand up to 0.5mm from 30% SOC to 100% SOC which does not put any pressure on the terminals as only the middle is flexing not the top or bottom
I there is a concern about swelling, then you are concerned about movment along the X axis, msotly. However all of your illustrations about these being flexible were along the Y axis, that is, you pushed down on them. i would to know what strength it takes to pull them along the X axis like how one may stretch a rubber band.
I bought 8 Catl 310Ah cells, half were already slightly bloated. Supplied bus bars did not fit properly, as the Catl have pressed in studs, with 10mm dia. base, obscuring most of the cell terminal. The Catl must be Eve rejects. I bought longer, 2nd hand (ex lead acid) North Star bus bars, copper plates at either end, with stranded flexi flat cable. The needed cleaning up, and I filed the slots from 8mm to 10mm measured exact for each connection. I was only able to get 5. 2 cell connections were ok with the supplied bus bars, tripled up; but having dismantled the cells, the don’t fit properly now, so am going to make 2x 35mm wire, with 200A lugs. Laminated thin is best, or stranded wire.
Impressive product if it does what it claims. As many have pointed out, there is a high percentage of scammers on aliexpress. I would like to see someone test these to see if their claims are indeed true. Thanks for the update.
I'd like to see a test too just because it would be interesting. I see these as no different than multi strand wire. Just flat instead of round. Should be an easy test to confirm how much current they can handle.
There are links in the video description to exactly where I bought them. I mentioned in the video the order and receive dates (which I can't recall offhand).
I have yet to see anything that confirms that slight movement of the terminals due to breathing of the cells is harmful to the battery. I don't know exactly how the terminals connect to and interact with the internals of the prismatic battery itself. Those busbars look really great, but I am not sure I'd be willing to drop that much money on something that may not even be a problem. There are literally millions of batteries in use today. Anyone heard of a problem with terminal movement harming a battery pack? While it seems logical that terminal strain would be a bad thing, are we trying to manufacture a solution to a non-issue? Any experience out there?
wow those are cool busbars! I cant wait to see your battery finally built!! You gotta beat Andy over at Off-Grid Garage in building your EVE battery pack lol he just started his build also.
I am awaiting my 16 304ah EVEs. I would like to use aluminum for my bus bars. I understand that aluminum only conducts about 60% as well as copper. I am planning to us aluminum bus bars that are twice as thick to compensate. Any thoughts?
Awesome product! Thanks for sharing. Will very soon order 16 Eve cells OR some complete rack mount batteries. Since these rack mount systems are very hard to find at a reasonable price in The Netherlands, I might as well proceed my course with swap my two European Battery 4kWh 48Volt pouch cell stacks by 16 pcs of EVE 280K cells. If anyone knows a feliable dealer or warehouse for EVE cells in The Netherlands, please let me know.
I did the same drill/tap M3 screw approach as I did with the original solid busbars. I just had to do it at the compressed/solid area of the busbar, not right in the middle where it's flexible.
re: 'elongated holes' - they'd have to slide back & forth under the pressure of the steel fastener holding them down, and very soon the electrical connection would be loose.
You say that these bus bars solve all the problems that you have encountered with these batteries. But what do you do with the galvanic corrosion between the aluminum battery terminal and your nickel or copper bus bars? I'm really curious to hear people's opinions on it!
Good video, I believe you could of made your own bus bar out of flattened 1/2 copper tube & dip into molted lead & 1" heat shrink in the middle and make your center ripple in the middle. On my press it's easy to make and looks professional.
I managed to find and order the ones for the new EVE style twin bolt terminals, mines arranged as two rows of eight and they even had the correct ones for the end cells, they arrived today 🙂
Wow you have such weird thoughts. The compressed batteries don't expand and contract, just follow the manufacturers instructions to compress and you would have had no problem at all using the manufacturer supplied bus bars. This tension issue only exists for uncompressed batteries.
ive seen plenty of these batteries that are not anywhere near what is advertised. especially depending on where they came from. plenty of batteries that should not be bloated end up bloating. seems like a pretty common problem for LFP unless you are paying top dollar from a reliable company that actually sells legit grade A cells, and not the garbage you see half the time from companies claiming they are grade A cells
Compressing batteries without any means of expansion will infact shorten their life. The manufacture (EVE) instructs a constant pressure of around 13psi, if this pressure is applied whilst the cells are at a low SOC when they are charged they may well blow their pressure relief, and if applied when full they will be loose when empty, this is why many introduce springs into their threaded rod to allow for the small amount of natural expansion and contraction.
@@MultiJamie12345 I tried all this, it was totally not an issue at all. Really a lot of hype over nothing. The expansion numbers only seem to be true uncompressed. The pressure difference between low and high change insignificant.
@@Zorlig 8 cells in a row compressed with springs at a constant 13psi will expand a total of 4-6mm.., no it's not a massive amount, but doing that over several years may well effect the cycle life.
@@MultiJamie12345 24 cells in a row from empty to full compressed expanded zero. I would recommend basing your knowledge on actual date. Try it out (like I did). I'm not aware of anyone actually compressing to spec with springs, much less seeing those results you quote. Please link to them?
It seems crimped copper wires have a lot more resistance than copper bus bars. I don't know how accurate it is but Ray from "Ray Builds New Stuff" channel has done a video on it recently. He also found suppliers sending brass busbars instead of copper, which are much higher in resistance.
Expensive solution to to solve a non existent problem, there hasn't been any significant documented cases of terminal failure. You have the cells in a fixing so that when they try to swell they can't. Maybe overthinking it.
Yet, or it hasn’t been investigated in failure. Also, it depends on how the cells are installed. Unfixed with gaps between and short string (low S) or tightly assembled and long string ( worst case).
@@LithiumSolar If it it's two paralleled cells. if you build a 16s2p battery, you have no way to protect from a short between , for example, battery 4a and 4b.
@@ai4px The two cells function as one. If a cell shorts, you have big problems regardless of if it's 2-paralleled or not. Batteries are made with more than 2 cells in parallel pretty much everywhere. This is a standard way of wiring them.
@@LithiumSolar I think we're gunna disagree on that.... YMMV. No disprect intended. When the first car batteries were made from 18650 cells, each cell has a small fusible link bcaus there are so many of them in parallel. Maybe that's the key? One battery can't source enough current to harm an equivalent battery? But in teh case of 18650s where you have 40 cells in parallel, 39 cells can certainly source enough current to harm one. Maybe that's it? I'll have to ponder it.
In your last video testing the pack your shunt was 500A, which at 48V would be something like 24Kw right. At that load, with 32 cells, wouldn't the individual busbars be at ~16 amps? Why do we need 300A busbars? Are we anticipating 460,800 watt loads at some point in the future or am I missing something?
My inverter is 10kW and on a 51.8V nominal battery system, that calculates out to 193A at nominal voltage if running at full load. Amperage would increase too as voltage drops towards the end of the battery state of charge.
Where did you get that 16A figure? Did you just do this: 500A/32Cells? That is incorrect. The cells are in 16S2P (16 in Series, 2 in parallel) configuration. Current is divided in parallel connections only, in series strings the current flow remains the same. So, if the total current draw is 500A, then each cell and busbar will need to handle 500/2A (16S2P) = 250A. Hence the 300A bus bars.
Since March?! Oh man I could not for the life of me have that many cells near me without them cycling daily 😂 how could you sleep at night?! I always feel guilty if a battery is not connected to my system.
Those busbars you got are amazing!!! They have everything!!!! Wow!
And snake orientation!!! Oh man these have it all!
600A options?! Man, distributors need to supply these
@@WillProwse Probably not necessary (won't be used), but still VERY NICE to have!
@@joatmofa0405 agreed!!
😂 too funny thanks guys
They look great. Thanks for going through all the trouble to find a great product and share the info with all of us. The construction looks the same as what we pull from Volvo batteries, I wonder if it's the same company.
Brother if you have some old inverter that no more in your use you can donate me
Best regards from Philippines 🇵🇭
Interesting discovery. Nice find. Looking forward to see the results. Thanks for sharing.
I bought a bunch of these in 3 different sizes. Cost was $107 US delivered and took 20 days. Very nice bars just as described. They are in service and work as expected.
Wow, I like those buss bars, now if I could only afford to buy cells and replace my dead AGM batteries because winter is coming and I live in my old bus full-time. Keep up the good work and stay safe and charged
Very cool find. It is perfect for those who are building custom battery pack(s) for mobile applications. Anything on a mobile platform especially RV’s, vans, etc. are like earthquakes on wheels. No matter how solidly it is built, it’s gonna move and stress out the terminals over time. Anything that will help mitigate a potential point of failure is cheap insurance and not having to deal with the headaches down the road. Just my 2 cents for whatever it is worth…
Great video ! I am shocked that no one else has made the concerns you had noted as theirs too ! I am long term protech in automotive field and every concern you noted is why my systems have worked better than most in my industry & kept going after others quit due to poor design of an actual working environment ! I've wondered why so many schools graduate people and haven't yet taught them proper installation techniques ! It may work on classroom whiteboard but what happens when it's in real world with vibration , temperature and chemical composition considerations over time ? Great that you are at forefront.
I've had these on my aliexpress list for the last week for my EVE 304ah Cells, deciding it they are worth it. after watching your video, i ordered them, the look like they are worth the extra $$$
Oh My! These are the sweetest busbars I've ever seen. And, they'll work on these very large cells (after usage & swelling no less!) I really, really like the thin layers that are snug but not compressed at the ends for the required flexibility over time. I'm thinking that they will not loosen the anode/cathode bolts over time and THEY will flex instead of the nuts holding them. Pricey, but- a genuinely viable answer to ALL of your concerns. I think WP (see post above) was surprised at how well the 'stock' busbars conducted power between cells, but, these must be amazing! Other than price, these bring everything together nicely. Literally!
Great Research dude.. with a Nice buss bar result.. cool! They look terrific to me!
I have four 48vdc batteries I built with EVE 280ah cells (64 total cells) using the original buss bars. I have mine lightly compressed using threaded rod and 3/4” MDF (medium density fiberboard)
My cells swell very little.. actually almost nothing so far.
Because I’m running four 48v batteries in parallel, an individual battery only needs to produce maybe 30 ~ 40 amps max. And during the charge cycle I’ve only seen 45 amp charge on any single battery. I run 48v min to 56v max on my charge/discharge cycle.
I have been running my cells a few months now and tried to slide in a thin resistance pressure monitor to measure the pressure.. but the cells seem to have no measurable swelling difference between 56v and 48v.
All that said.. I might still buy your newly discovered buss bars!
Things change.. and sometimes quickly!
Thanks pal
✌️PT
These busbars look great. Thanks for sharing bro. You just made a huge market for these guys and probably the price is now higher 😂
I'm an engineer (not electrical... guess by my name) BUT, I am an avid radio ham. Lots of hams used braided cable, grounding strap, flexible ground cable - it goes by many names. It might not be the cheapest solution but it's good, primarily because they have MORE current capacity than a sold piece of metal.
Good find!
Question: What do you think about using Noalox between the bus bar and battery post?
Noalox Anti-Oxidant is specifically made to improve the service life and efficiency of aluminum electrical connections in commercial or industrial applications. The anti-oxidant compound contains suspended zinc particles to penetrate and cut aluminum oxidation.
Your dedication to this problem is incredible! I learn so much from your videos, hope I can someday apply my gained knowledge! :)
Great find bud, and comments from some of my favorite battery and solar guys. Cool
Awesome find, thanks for the research and testing - ordered 21 on your affiliate link, perfect for our RV install and aleiviating vibration concerns - Cheers!
Here is something new and interesting, at least for me!
Looking forward for a test under hi loads, temperature and losses. Ω?
Step back a moment and consider what incredible geeks we are. Just sayin’.
Yes sir, that will work. Thanks again.
The main question: how many amps do you put in and out of the pack?
If less than 50 or 40, just get some 4 mm2 solid copper wire (if around 20 amps, 2.5 mm2 will do) cut it in lengths, do a nice round 360 loop ( 360 only , no more, no overlapping) at each end, do it with pliers around a bolt, very easy to do, then S shape it a bit,and use that,no need for buss bars ,those are for 100 amps and up; and the wires are flexible, no strain on the cell terminals; i use that simple system to parallel the cells for the initial charge to 3.65 volts, since usually there are never enough buss bars of the right size.
For 350 amp how should i decide my thickness?
Finally, a proper solution. Thanks for sharing.
EXCELLENT VIDEO!! JUST WHAT I NEEDED!!
just ordered from your link. thank you si much for your research!!
big help!!
Did i miss where the plastic insulator is removed, to see what's underneath. Thanks for the information and video.
Oh wow how cool that the bus bar can flex like that
What an elegant solution
I dont like the long holes on standard busbars.
I want to cut myself some Bus Bars 100 %fitting on the terminals, is that a Bad idea?
The slot is to accomodate any space between the cells, whether it be from bloating or by design (foam, plastic spacers, etc). As long as what ever you're cutting is flexible, I think you'll be fine. I don't consider solid pieces of metal as a busbar to be a good idea.
Oh this post is just the ticket - I hated the thin ridged ones that came with my 320ah cells - I've just ordered these for my RV leisure battery. I see your post is attracting the TH-cams solar/ lithium hierarchy !
Thanks for doing this research, I just placed an order for some of these bars.
it would have been interesting to know the resistance of this flexible busbar, can you tell us?
Watch the video by "Ray builds cool stuff"
@@bill2292 thank's
With the amount of money you have tied up with this build why not go the extra mile like you have. Nice find!
The standard mile would have been too compress them. He's actually doing less than he should.
I’d be curious to see the contact resistance of your bus bar. This might just be a few mOhms but can make a huge difference in the performance of your battery pack. For commercial systems this is a routine check, typically down with a RM3545 or a RM3548.
In your plan that you show in another video you used also bars with 3 hole,i suppose that hey where cut from the 4 hole busbars and that did not give any problem
But you used in your 2 left battery’s on the front to connect them like in a square,did you order these special made or what’s used for this?i am not sure if it’s right to connect this in a square( like i see it in the video)or only u-form
What’s the pro or con for use 2p16s against 2 packs 16 s
Thanks
Lithium,
Thanks for the up-date on those style of buss bars, they look like a great solution.
I do have a question. I want to drill and tap for a small screw to be able to attach the sense leads for the BMS onto the buss bars. Have you tried to drill and tap those layered buss bars? I ordered a bunch already, just wondered if you knew it the held together well enough to tap out a small hole.
Thanks
Yes, I was successful in drill/tapping M3 threads in the part of the busbar that's compressed/solid. There's not a lot of room though and have to be mindful where the hole is so the screw clears the plastic part of the terminal when you set it on the cell.
How did you ever buy 32 of them ? Hit the lotto?
Thanks for sharing 👍 😊
Any idea if these are available from a stateside seller?
Not that I'm aware of, but they arrived fast - not the typical 2-3 months from China.
I am interested in the way how to connect this to the leads from Barium BMS,is it possible to tap them also to fix the leads or just bolt them
Also is there any advantage in 2p16s to 2 times 16 s to connect the batteries
Thanks
In addition: I ordered 16 280K cells with 2 M6 screwholes in each terminal. Hoping that the company who sold you these busbars will make these for the K version too.
I was looking for these and bam! thank you!
Great info. Hope you get a cut off the affiliate link. Just bought 15 of them. Thanks!
Wow, we will contacting these guys!
Thanks for the video, one question can you cut the 4 hole one down to just 3 holes ?
Yes, you can cut it down to 3 holes. I did this with 2 of them as my batteries sit in 3 rows on the shelf, 2 rows of 11 and 1 row of 10. I just used a hack saw.
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for your help
One more question I have 12 cells and I need to make two stack with them on there side to fit my space, is it okay to lay these on there side
Those look very nice. Is it possible to drill holes in the pressed part and tap some thread for balancing wires? (instead of re-using the cell terminals for that)
Yes, I did just this and it worked out great. I just had to be careful not to drill too close to the terminal to make sure the balance screw would clear the plastic post below. Prior to this, I tried soldering leads on and that was an absolute failure! Lol.
@@LithiumSolar Alright, thanks. I've crimped braid myself as I'm working on a RV system, so besides expansion, I also expect vibration. These busbars look so clean and easier. Looking forward to your video where you cut the isolation ;)
Would oxidation between busbars increase IR similar to stranded wire. Tapping holes for sense wires thru multiple layers of conductor are you concerned about accurate readings.
Those are the nicest buss bars I have ever seen, they definitely skimp on that when u purchase cells. I wonder if 0 gauge wire would perform up to that standard from terminal to terminal...good video
Thank you - this is very interesting and useful. Keep up the good work!
Could you cut the heat shrink off one so we can see the flexible laminated layers? :)
Yes, I'll have this in the next video (1-2 days)
Do you have a number for the total battery resistance with one type busbar vs the others?
Wish you would cut one to show the internals of the bus bar
Check the video I just uploaded on the inverter and skip to the battery chapter point. It's in there :-)
@@LithiumSolar Just saw your video ...Nicely done... 👍
I was going to ask about busbars as i was looking at those too. This cleared things up for me. Thanks. Also although the basic bus bars are $1 you do need 3 to connect what the $7 ones connect right?
I don't understand the aversion to flexible cables and crimped terminals. Such short lengths of oversized cables with properly crimped terminals are more than capable of carrying huge currents without any voltage drop and also allow massive amounts of movement without stressing the connection. In installations with possible vibration such as vehicles or boats they are far less likely to have connection issues due to vibration. They also have the benefit that the terminals do not have slotted holes that reduce contact area. Plus they are cheap!
Starter motor leads are crimped, they rarely fail IME 🤔
I've allways been told current flows on the outside of cables so multi strand are better than single strand so what happens with a solid bussbar ?
Genuine question, i know a bussbar has a large surface area so i assume multi layer bussbars are better than solid 🤔
I don't understand it either. A short length of 2 AWG is good for almost 200 amps which is probably much more than the sustained load on his pack, and a connector crimped with 16 tons of force can handle much more current that those straps torqued to 4-5 Nm on the studs. I arranged all of my 280 amp cells in the same direction (all + terminals at top, all - terminals at bottom) connected them in series with 3" 2 AWG crimped jumpers arranged at an angle. I cut them just a little bit too long so they are in a very slight C shape which gives them a little room to flex. The 2/0 cables from the pack to the inverter get warmer than the 2 AWG cell jumpers under heavy load.
@@Dirt-Diggler skin effect ，only happen in high frequency current，that s why high frequency transformer use multiple wire instead of single wire
Bingo!
It's simple guys. He wants a show-piece for his batteries. That's it. Has nothing to do with performance. Our entire grid is held together with crimps and butt-splices, it works fine and seldom fails.
Think about it, there's at least 30 breakers in your panel, 30 set screws x 2, 60. Plus 2-3 connections (minimum) per receptical/switch in your house. Plus light fixtures. If I were to haphazardly guess: my low-ball would be 300 electrical splice-like connections per 'average' home. Plus 6 for the meter box, 3 splices for overhead, plus the transformer connections. There are 11 connections that can see in the ballpark of 200A.
Only god knows how many splices exist in the distribution, transmissions, generating stations and substations.
Sooo......
Don´t you see the terminals would n´t move apart from each other, but just each cell bulge slightly into the foam? But I´m using the flexible bars anyway, already for some two years, on the obligatory 96v battery.
1 year later the price is 2$/piece.
Been using same. Excellent.
Thank you, sir.
Would it be okay building a battery pack with some of the bus bar length are slightly longer (around 5-10cm)?
I calculated that it would take three, one inch wide ground straps to equate a common bus bar. That would require tinning the bolts area under compression, then punching a hole. I just wish we could get theses flexible bus bars quicker, because I’d rather not have to make them the hard way.
4:50 in a 16S, 2 rows of 8 cells, you will need one of this 84mm busbar to connect the two rows.
In a mobile application fine, a little added protection but the batteries should be in a FIXTURE clamped down. In the specs for these batteries it says nothing about compression. the foam is not needed in between but a gap is so they can expand up to 0.5mm from 30% SOC to 100% SOC which does not put any pressure on the terminals as only the middle is flexing not the top or bottom
I think the foam will allow the necessary expansion while still "fixing" them from movement.
What torque are you using to tighten them down?
I used 50in-lb. No reason in particular. It just seems to work well.
@@LithiumSolar I’ve used half of that and it definitely needs more. Shenzen Basen says 6nm
I there is a concern about swelling, then you are concerned about movment along the X axis, msotly. However all of your illustrations about these being flexible were along the Y axis, that is, you pushed down on them. i would to know what strength it takes to pull them along the X axis like how one may stretch a rubber band.
Why didn't you show us resistance test of the buss bars?
I bought 8 Catl 310Ah cells, half were already slightly bloated. Supplied bus bars did not fit properly, as the Catl have pressed in studs, with 10mm dia. base, obscuring most of the cell terminal. The Catl must be Eve rejects. I bought longer, 2nd hand (ex lead acid) North Star bus bars, copper plates at either end, with stranded flexi flat cable. The needed cleaning up, and I filed the slots from 8mm to 10mm measured exact for each connection. I was only able to get 5. 2 cell connections were ok with the supplied bus bars, tripled up; but having dismantled the cells, the don’t fit properly now, so am going to make 2x 35mm wire, with 200A lugs. Laminated thin is best, or stranded wire.
Impressive product if it does what it claims. As many have pointed out, there is a high percentage of scammers on aliexpress. I would like to see someone test these to see if their claims are indeed true. Thanks for the update.
What specifically are you questioning, that they can handle 300A?
@@LithiumSolar yes, and are they in fact layers of material. Would love to see you, or someone else test them to, or beyond their stated capability.
I'd like to see a test too just because it would be interesting. I see these as no different than multi strand wire. Just flat instead of round. Should be an easy test to confirm how much current they can handle.
where exactly bought?
how long was the delivery time (destination?)
There are links in the video description to exactly where I bought them. I mentioned in the video the order and receive dates (which I can't recall offhand).
Ordered some of these, thanks.
I have yet to see anything that confirms that slight movement of the terminals due to breathing of the cells is harmful to the battery. I don't know exactly how the terminals connect to and interact with the internals of the prismatic battery itself. Those busbars look really great, but I am not sure I'd be willing to drop that much money on something that may not even be a problem. There are literally millions of batteries in use today. Anyone heard of a problem with terminal movement harming a battery pack?
While it seems logical that terminal strain would be a bad thing, are we trying to manufacture a solution to a non-issue? Any experience out there?
wow those are cool busbars! I cant wait to see your battery finally built!! You gotta beat Andy over at Off-Grid Garage in building your EVE battery pack lol he just started his build also.
Wow, those are fantastic
I am awaiting my 16 304ah EVEs. I would like to use aluminum for my bus bars. I understand that aluminum only conducts about 60% as well as copper. I am planning to us aluminum bus bars that are twice as thick to compensate. Any thoughts?
Awesome product! Thanks for sharing. Will very soon order 16 Eve cells OR some complete rack mount batteries. Since these rack mount systems are very hard to find at a reasonable price in The Netherlands, I might as well proceed my course with swap my two European Battery 4kWh 48Volt pouch cell stacks by 16 pcs of EVE 280K cells.
If anyone knows a feliable dealer or warehouse for EVE cells in The Netherlands, please let me know.
Can you tell me what a home run looks like. I think 💭 it was just done ✅. This company will be getting orders.
Very good information. Noted for sure thanks !
You rock dude
Nice connectors but real expensive. It also seems a real waste not to make up and use your cells for 9 months
Whats your plan for balance cables?
I did the same drill/tap M3 screw approach as I did with the original solid busbars. I just had to do it at the compressed/solid area of the busbar, not right in the middle where it's flexible.
what are resistances for this busbars?
I have no idea? Zero?
@@LithiumSolar why not to measure it?
Couldn’t the original buss bar holes be elongated more than they are, thereby allowing expansion of the cells?
re: 'elongated holes' - they'd have to slide back & forth under the pressure of the steel fastener holding them down, and very soon the electrical connection would be loose.
Cool, I have to remember this.
Very cool
I agree with you.
We are also a professional manufacturer of flexible busbar for batteries pack.
You say that these bus bars solve all the problems that you have encountered with these batteries. But what do you do with the galvanic corrosion between the aluminum battery terminal and your nickel or copper bus bars? I'm really curious to hear people's opinions on it!
A light dielectric grease coating is all I do. I have never seen any corrosion in mine.
Good video, I believe you could of made your own bus bar out of flattened 1/2 copper tube & dip into molted lead & 1" heat shrink in the middle and make your center ripple in the middle. On my press it's easy to make and looks professional.
Полезное видео👍👍👍
I like these, except I have the new EVE terminals with twin bolt fixing.
I managed to find and order the ones for the new EVE style twin bolt terminals, mines arranged as two rows of eight and they even had the correct ones for the end cells, they arrived today 🙂
What bms are you using for 32s
This is not 32s, it's 16s (16 cells in series). The cells are just wired in groups of 2p or 2 in parallel.
@@LithiumSolar taught as much, have 32 here just thinking which is best configuration for 48v
I’m curious why dnt everyone use silver sense it’s conductivity is 100% compared to copper
i Recommend Mr. LI battery.
Awesome
Nice.
Oh O, The digital mermaid will be ripping her battery apart again in 3, 2, 1...
Wow you have such weird thoughts. The compressed batteries don't expand and contract, just follow the manufacturers instructions to compress and you would have had no problem at all using the manufacturer supplied bus bars. This tension issue only exists for uncompressed batteries.
ive seen plenty of these batteries that are not anywhere near what is advertised. especially depending on where they came from. plenty of batteries that should not be bloated end up bloating. seems like a pretty common problem for LFP unless you are paying top dollar from a reliable company that actually sells legit grade A cells, and not the garbage you see half the time from companies claiming they are grade A cells
Compressing batteries without any means of expansion will infact shorten their life. The manufacture (EVE) instructs a constant pressure of around 13psi, if this pressure is applied whilst the cells are at a low SOC when they are charged they may well blow their pressure relief, and if applied when full they will be loose when empty, this is why many introduce springs into their threaded rod to allow for the small amount of natural expansion and contraction.
@@MultiJamie12345 I tried all this, it was totally not an issue at all. Really a lot of hype over nothing. The expansion numbers only seem to be true uncompressed. The pressure difference between low and high change insignificant.
@@Zorlig 8 cells in a row compressed with springs at a constant 13psi will expand a total of 4-6mm.., no it's not a massive amount, but doing that over several years may well effect the cycle life.
@@MultiJamie12345 24 cells in a row from empty to full compressed expanded zero. I would recommend basing your knowledge on actual date. Try it out (like I did). I'm not aware of anyone actually compressing to spec with springs, much less seeing those results you quote. Please link to them?
The girl did it best..... Crimped 1/0 is superior in my opinion.
Digital Mermaid? I agree, she did a great job with hers! Lots of ways to do it when you're DIYing .
It seems crimped copper wires have a lot more resistance than copper bus bars. I don't know how accurate it is but Ray from "Ray Builds New Stuff" channel has done a video on it recently. He also found suppliers sending brass busbars instead of copper, which are much higher in resistance.
@@DSmartLife Good video by Ray.
@@DSmartLife I think he said that if you use 1/0 the resistance is the same as a copper bus bar. Do you agree?
Expensive solution to to solve a non existent problem, there hasn't been any significant documented cases of terminal failure. You have the cells in a fixing so that when they try to swell they can't. Maybe overthinking it.
Yet, or it hasn’t been investigated in failure. Also, it depends on how the cells are installed. Unfixed with gaps between and short string (low S) or tightly assembled and long string ( worst case).
What happens when one battery fails and its mate dumps hundreds of amps into it?
Your BMS or over-current protection should take care of that?
@@LithiumSolar If it it's two paralleled cells. if you build a 16s2p battery, you have no way to protect from a short between , for example, battery 4a and 4b.
@@ai4px The two cells function as one. If a cell shorts, you have big problems regardless of if it's 2-paralleled or not. Batteries are made with more than 2 cells in parallel pretty much everywhere. This is a standard way of wiring them.
@@LithiumSolar I think we're gunna disagree on that.... YMMV. No disprect intended. When the first car batteries were made from 18650 cells, each cell has a small fusible link bcaus there are so many of them in parallel. Maybe that's the key? One battery can't source enough current to harm an equivalent battery? But in teh case of 18650s where you have 40 cells in parallel, 39 cells can certainly source enough current to harm one. Maybe that's it? I'll have to ponder it.
I wouldn’t put neoprene, wood or any other combustible materials in contact with these cells.
I think once they are bolted in place they are no longer flexible thin layers become 1 thicklayer
So sweat so beautiful my precious
😁✌🖖👌👍😎
In your last video testing the pack your shunt was 500A, which at 48V would be something like 24Kw right. At that load, with 32 cells, wouldn't the individual busbars be at ~16 amps? Why do we need 300A busbars? Are we anticipating 460,800 watt loads at some point in the future or am I missing something?
My inverter is 10kW and on a 51.8V nominal battery system, that calculates out to 193A at nominal voltage if running at full load. Amperage would increase too as voltage drops towards the end of the battery state of charge.
Of course, I do not ever intend to pull 193A from them, but... capability needs to be there in order to remain safe (in my opinion).
@@LithiumSolar So at the full 193 amps draw, wouldn't the 15 busbars used to create the 16s 51.8V pack configuration only be carrying 12.86 amps each?
Where did you get that 16A figure? Did you just do this: 500A/32Cells? That is incorrect. The cells are in 16S2P (16 in Series, 2 in parallel) configuration. Current is divided in parallel connections only, in series strings the current flow remains the same. So, if the total current draw is 500A, then each cell and busbar will need to handle 500/2A (16S2P) = 250A. Hence the 300A bus bars.
@@DSmartLife the math ignores the 16S part. 500/2A/16=15.86A.