For purchase inquiries, questions, suggestions and OFR stickers, email me at ontariofirewoodresource@hotmail.com Find me on Facebook at Ontario Firewood Subscribe to my other channel "EPIC WORLD WAR II" for WWII documentaries: th-cam.com/channels/qySpEDIn1XkVcoBZryyLHg.html
I burnt a ton of Eastern White Pine this season. Easy to process, seasons quickly, catches nicely. Not burning Pine is one of the biggest myths of firewood!!!
Yes absolutely you can burn pine provided it's seasoned properly. BUT if hardwood is available, better to use the pine as kindling since its perfect for getting the fire going again and it has a lower BTU per volume.
Excellent video so thank you my friend. For some the reasons you mentioned I, is why my camp is in rural Florida deep in th interior away from the coast . I’d rather have to worry about cooling off in the shade . Then devoting so many resources to just staying warm in the north
@user-xw7dq8vv1i thank you! I can't stand the cold or the heat, so I'm screwed. It's been 80 to 90F a lot this summer, last year was a little hotter on a lot more days than this year. Seems to be getting warmer year round overall and being in the city makes it worse. Our only refuge ifor the heat is the odd cold front or cool breeze from the south off of Lake Ontario in early summer before the water warms up. Both my old and woodyard locations are less than a miles from the lake but it doesn't make a huge difference
@@OntarioFirewoodResource I live in Tampa Bay close to the gulf so I’m the summer we get a lot of rain and Gulf Breeze’s but there’s definitely days I’m the high 90s with a ton of humidity. But for about half the year going into the fall and spring we have beautiful weather overall. My camp I was talking about is in a different location In Florida and is my hunting bug out location. The humidity there is so bad but the winter are so nice with little energy to expend to stay warm. You just have to take a a break in the shade as you reach high noon and for some Time after and hydrate and that’s all you can do until the sun isn’t directly over head . Because it’s can be as life threatening as any of the coldest days . But I definitely cannot tolerate the cold at all as a Native lifelong resident of Florida. Back in 2010 I was sleeping in a tent in my camp on the direct ground except the paper thin Walmart tent floor and some blankets and it got down in the low teens which is rare for Florida and I wasn’t sure if I was going to survive 😎
You need pine to start a fire, heat the woodstove stovepipe and build up a bed of coals for hardwoods. White birch and soft maple, if not burnt properly will generate more creosote than pine ever will. A good hot pine fire will clean your chimney of excess soot and creosote and doing a hot burn every once in a while is absolutely necessary to keep your stovepipe and chimney clean.
Pine burns great if properly well dried/seasoned, contrary to “common knowledge”. It weighs considerably less than hardwoods (generalization) but SAME approximate BTUs/pound. It does grow faster, though. Creosote is no problem burning DRY pine with an occasional hot fire.
Hmm, 150$ a cord for pine, or, 400$ a cord for oak. I'm not rich, so it's a no brianer. Been burning pine for years with no problem. But, I do keep the chimney clean.
I analyzed the tree species variety during a few trips to Calgary, which lies between the prairies and the Rockies. I didn't visit any forests, but the treed planted around the city were as such: a few elms and ashes, lots of poplar. River birch, larch and cottonwood, aside from the typical softwoods. Not much volume of trees with the lack of forests across the prairies as well
@@OntarioFirewoodResource It is a grassland until you get north around battleford saskatchewan but in the coulees of the south there are poplar species. Wood Mountain is poplar. In Cypress Hills adjacent to Alberta there are conifers and in the riparian areas cottonwood. The bark is very thick 5-8 cm and very slow burning. I have cottonwood trees here in BC. They provide exceptional habitat for screech owl bald eagles and raven and weasels
Pine is best for kindling to start a fire. Then add hardwoods (oak, cherry, walnut, hickory) once the fire gets going. You can use hardwoods to start a fire if you cut it up into small enough pieces (kindling and shavings) and use the top-down method of starting a fire.
Yes, for sure. Sometimes my customers put a little bit of kindling and then a bunch of good hardwood logs on and tell me that their fire won't light so I tell them that they have to fet the fire going well in order to fet the food stuff to catch
@@nelsonridgefarm Thanks for all your support! You are my most proliferated commenter! I'll be checking out more of your videos soon, just grinding over here. If anyone likes tanks, check out Brad's channel. God bless!
Thank you for sharing🙋🏻♀️ a lot of things you said was a Confrirmation to me even though i dont have a Chimney in my house but i was thinking in those people who live up high in the mountains🏞️ who dont have radiators and these 🌳🪵Trees are not found there . Somethimes i have certain conversations in my mind with Our Creator and than He answers me and reveals things that he also revealed to people to that i see in a video or meet or talk to and that makes me even realise how sovereign God is .🌌
You are absolutely right. There is more to it all and there is much embedded in our consciousness, our DNA. You were vrought to this video as confirmation of what you felt. God bless. Thank you for watching
I'm pretty spoiled here in Toronto, I can get whatever I want! All my wood comrs from the city and supplies my business and my woodstove. Thanks for watching
Two things. 1. First dry pine is absolutely fine to burn in your stove. 2. Pine is not the same as other coniferous trees. Douglas Fir, Larch and Hemlock are very good softwood firewood, the BTU ratings are on par with or even exceed the mid to lower grade hardwoods. That being said you should always always get your chimney cleaned at least once a year no exceptions. If you are diligent in keeping your chimney clean and burn dry wood (even pine) you won't ever need to worry about a chimney fire.
Thanks for your input. I do know that some "soft" species burn better than pine. I think the main issue of burning wood with less btus is really the fact that you have to burn more of it, which means more work
how would one design a flu that never gets creosote and chimeny fires? is it just a matter of keeping the temperature in the flu high enough? what is that temperature?
I'm at 5,000 ft altitude in southern California looking at Mexico. 99% of what I burn is 3 different types of oak. A few hundred miles north in the mountains there's only ponderosa or Jeffrey pine for firewood. You burn what you've got. I'll burn cedar periodically but I'm continuously feeding the stove with that wood
No problem. Most people fire off a couple lines that they heard instead of really dabbling into the subject, lacking the elaborate knowledge behind the subject, but that is a common practice these days
No problem and thank you. I sell my hardwood chafe from off the splitter for kindling but softwood equivalent is even better as hardwood doesn't light as well
There's some skids that have thin boards and they're reddish in colour and I've seen a couple pieces mixed in bring the temp to 900. I wonder what wood that is. Blue and orange skids are good, but the paint is a bad scene and they stink
Ya, you don't need hardwood in the garage...too small, easy to heat. Softwood is fine to burn anytime, anywhere. The only difference with softwood is that you need more volume than hardwood and it means more work to split, load, clean ashes, etc. Firewood is too much work whether your burning soft or hardwood. Inevitably I would just burn hardwood. If someone didn't mind burning softwood and doing all the work, chimney inspection should be the real gauge of their decision
You've got less to think about then...I'm in the big city of Toronto and I get access to so much wood but i can't consistently stock single species of firewood so I mix the species in my crates and I also do 6 species of smoker wood, so it's a lot to think about
Damn it.... I put a wedge of sappy pine in a wood burning stove after the coals we're ready hot. Didn't see the sap till after I took off my gloves and realized they were really sticky. The sap caught fire quickly. Just shut the door and pulled the air vent and let the flute stay open.
@@OntarioFirewoodResource still burning.... I've been watching the stack outside and it's just smoke and I touch the fireplace walls. Barely Luke warm. I presume just sit here and watch it till it's burns out complete...? The entire tubing system and wood burning stove is brand new
Tell me and all the other Alaskans you cant burn pine..lol,,,Spruce, which is basically a pine is pretty much the wood we burned, that and birch..no choice
All trees have sap , why do you think they call it maple sap! Conifers have resins and resins are not Creosote. Beech tree's are the king of Creosote trees and coal and Peet moss have more Creosote then beech!
Utter nonsense in one area you say you can't use it because it doesn't burn hot enough for secondary combustion. Then you say it burns hot and fast. Which is it? You are right it needs to be dry just like any firewood. And it is lower density so it has fewer btus per piece. But it doesn't make any more creosote than hardwood
That's a fair point if you are continually cramming pine in the stove on a constant basis but moderate burning means the temperature goes down quickly after flare up and you have to reload again so you dont have consistent high temps. Keep in mind that pine BTU output is low overall. Pine starts with good heat and cools off quick, good hardwood starts with low heat but provides lots of heat for a long period
@@OntarioFirewoodResource But those low temps in the end of the burn are fine. Once it is charcoal you aren't going to be making creosote regardless. By your analysis hardwood would make more creosote. Those low temps to start when the wood is releasing the most volatiles is what makes creosote. I personally choose not to burn much pine but that is only because of its low btu to volume ratio. But it is great in the spring and fall for a quick fire to take the chill off. And there is absolutely nothing about pine that causes more creosote buildup
@@benholler1389 You're right again about my analysis but hopefully one doesn't let their stove temps get too low between burn and reload time. When it comes down to it, outfit is creosote free, that's why we must have our chimneys swept regularly. Thanks for watching!
@@OntarioFirewoodResource But there is nothing wrong with low temps in the cooling stage of the fire. Creosote is not produced in that stage. The only problem with letting it go to long is you will be doing a cold start. So it can be up to 15 mins untill you are up to temp instead of the normal 5 or so mins if you load at the right point. With a modern stove run correctly with good fuel there is no reason you should need to clean more than once a year
For purchase inquiries, questions, suggestions and OFR stickers, email me at ontariofirewoodresource@hotmail.com
Find me on Facebook at Ontario Firewood
Subscribe to my other channel "EPIC WORLD WAR II" for WWII documentaries:
th-cam.com/channels/qySpEDIn1XkVcoBZryyLHg.html
I burnt a ton of Eastern White Pine this season. Easy to process, seasons quickly, catches nicely. Not burning Pine is one of the biggest myths of firewood!!!
Yes it is, sometimes point a are made but then they get blanketed over the entire scenario
can u use em for smoke or grill meat?
No. It's no good at all for that
Yes thx I used 50:50 pine and oak last year. The pine had been stacked for over 10 years and burnt well although not as hot. But t was good!
Well it burns hot but doesn't last, that's all. Merry Christmas and happy new year!
Wood is wood , regardless of species, It has about 5000 btu per pound. The difference is density.The only bad firewood is wet or damp firewood .
Thanks, I've never heard that take on wood
Yes absolutely you can burn pine provided it's seasoned properly. BUT if hardwood is available, better to use the pine as kindling since its perfect for getting the fire going again and it has a lower BTU per volume.
The real reason to burn hardwood over softwood is that you need way more wood with softwood. More work! Thanks for watching
@@OntarioFirewoodResource agreed. Use what you've got for what it's best suited for. Fortunately we have a lot of hardwood around us
@@robertm5969 I've got neverending hardwood here!
Excellent video so thank you my friend. For some the reasons you mentioned I, is why my camp is in rural Florida deep in th interior away from the coast . I’d rather have to worry about cooling off in the shade . Then devoting so many resources to just staying warm in the north
@user-xw7dq8vv1i thank you! I can't stand the cold or the heat, so I'm screwed. It's been 80 to 90F a lot this summer, last year was a little hotter on a lot more days than this year. Seems to be getting warmer year round overall and being in the city makes it worse. Our only refuge ifor the heat is the odd cold front or cool breeze from the south off of Lake Ontario in early summer before the water warms up. Both my old and woodyard locations are less than a miles from the lake but it doesn't make a huge difference
@@OntarioFirewoodResource I live in Tampa Bay close to the gulf so I’m the summer we get a lot of rain and Gulf Breeze’s but there’s definitely days I’m the high 90s with a ton of humidity. But for about half the year going into the fall and spring we have beautiful weather overall. My camp I was talking about is in a different location In Florida and is my hunting bug out location. The humidity there is so bad but the winter are so nice with little energy to expend to stay warm. You just have to take a a break in the shade as you reach high noon and for some Time after and hydrate and that’s all you can do until the sun isn’t directly over head . Because it’s can be as life threatening as any of the coldest days . But I definitely cannot tolerate the cold at all as a Native lifelong resident of Florida. Back in 2010 I was sleeping in a tent in my camp on the direct ground except the paper thin Walmart tent floor and some blankets and it got down in the low teens which is rare for Florida and I wasn’t sure if I was going to survive 😎
You need pine to start a fire, heat the woodstove stovepipe and build up a bed of coals for hardwoods. White birch and soft maple, if not burnt properly will generate more creosote than pine ever will. A good hot pine fire will clean your chimney of excess soot and creosote and doing a hot burn every once in a while is absolutely necessary to keep your stovepipe and chimney clean.
Thanks for the added info. I've also heard that it doesn't matter what you burn, it's how hot you burn that rules out creosote
Pine burns great if properly well dried/seasoned, contrary to “common knowledge”.
It weighs considerably less than hardwoods (generalization) but SAME approximate BTUs/pound. It does grow faster, though.
Creosote is no problem burning DRY pine with an occasional hot fire.
Yes it is very usable but more work to use, the only difference compared to burning hardwood really
Awesome video. Very knowledgeable thank you
No problem, thanks for watching!
Hmm, 150$ a cord for pine, or, 400$ a cord for oak. I'm not rich, so it's a no brianer. Been burning pine for years with no problem. But, I do keep the chimney clean.
@@davidolson2636 that xanadian prices, city prices as well. As long as it's nice and dry, all good! Thanks for watching
Well said, exactly what we do too, we try not to use pine but if we have some they're mostly fire starters.
Thanks. We all love that smell, its nice to experience every now and then
Thanks for sharing 😊
@quinntheeskimooutdoors6234 no problem, thanks for watching
so what kind of stove design and flu design would prevent any problem with soft wood with resin?
I'm not sure, but I don't think you can get around that, you just have to clean the flue
Just be sure it's seasoned, it burns like anything else, just faster.
Trivia tip
On prairies, there are few fire wood choices.
In pre contact days, people burnt cottonwood bark in lodges.
Lots of btu/ last like coal.
I analyzed the tree species variety during a few trips to Calgary, which lies between the prairies and the Rockies. I didn't visit any forests, but the treed planted around the city were as such: a few elms and ashes, lots of poplar. River birch, larch and cottonwood, aside from the typical softwoods. Not much volume of trees with the lack of forests across the prairies as well
@@OntarioFirewoodResource It is a grassland until you get north around battleford saskatchewan
but in the coulees of the south there are poplar species. Wood Mountain
is poplar. In Cypress Hills adjacent to Alberta there are conifers and in the riparian areas cottonwood.
The bark is very thick 5-8 cm and very slow burning. I have cottonwood trees here in BC.
They provide exceptional habitat for screech owl bald eagles and raven and weasels
Pine is best for kindling to start a fire. Then add hardwoods (oak, cherry, walnut, hickory) once the fire gets going.
You can use hardwoods to start a fire if you cut it up into small enough pieces (kindling and shavings) and use the top-down method of starting a fire.
Yes, for sure. Sometimes my customers put a little bit of kindling and then a bunch of good hardwood logs on and tell me that their fire won't light so I tell them that they have to fet the fire going well in order to fet the food stuff to catch
👍👍👍Good topic, & great explanation!
This topic needed some clarity. Thanks for watching! Wait til you see what I got coming up next! I hope you're not hungry!
@@OntarioFirewoodResource Hungry oh yes, & very nice channel Sir
@@Mmmmmppppppp Thank you, it will only get better over time
@@nelsonridgefarm Thanks for all your support! You are my most proliferated commenter! I'll be checking out more of your videos soon, just grinding over here. If anyone likes tanks, check out Brad's channel. God bless!
Thank you for sharing🙋🏻♀️ a lot of things you said was a Confrirmation to me even though i dont have a Chimney in my house but i was thinking in those people who live up high in the mountains🏞️ who dont have radiators and these 🌳🪵Trees are not found there . Somethimes i have certain conversations in my mind with Our Creator and than He answers me and reveals things that he also revealed to people to that i see in a video or meet or talk to and that makes me even realise how sovereign God is .🌌
You are absolutely right. There is more to it all and there is much embedded in our consciousness, our DNA. You were vrought to this video as confirmation of what you felt. God bless. Thank you for watching
I don't burn white pine, but I love dry hemlock and cedar, they burn long and hot. I'll mix it in with the hardwood
I'm pretty spoiled here in Toronto, I can get whatever I want! All my wood comrs from the city and supplies my business and my woodstove. Thanks for watching
I only burn pine/spruce from old pallets and mix it in the hardwood.
Dryness is the key, to softwood and although it may not be good, it helps with relighting. Thanks for watching. Cheers from Toronto!
Ben burning 15 years not got new wood stove
Yes it does work, as long as it's really dry!
Not all pine is the same. In my area we have white, ponderosa and lodgepole pine. Lodgepole burns far better than the other two.
Fait enough. I know there are some high heat softwood species. Just the basics here I guess
Pine is fine if seasoned.
Yes the only reason not to burn it is because too much is needed
North Dakota pine burns as long as citrus wood and red pine can melt steel. Sawdust stoves can also burn for hours, even if the particles are pine.
I think red pine is what some skids are made of and I've throne a couple board in my fire and the temp went up to 900 degrees! Thanks for watching
That's why I mix in little hardwood with my pine
👍 thanks for watching
Yes it is it’s a yes when dried properly just like any other wood seasoned is seasoned and I burn every day and almost any wood
@@robperkins2674 trying to get rid of the misinformation about pine 🤣
Thanks for watching
Would you recommend to burn carob wood?
We don't have carob wood here. I just googled it and its fine. Thanks for watching!
Two things. 1. First dry pine is absolutely fine to burn in your stove. 2. Pine is not the same as other coniferous trees. Douglas Fir, Larch and Hemlock are very good softwood firewood, the BTU ratings are on par with or even exceed the mid to lower grade hardwoods. That being said you should always always get your chimney cleaned at least once a year no exceptions. If you are diligent in keeping your chimney clean and burn dry wood (even pine) you won't ever need to worry about a chimney fire.
Thanks for your input. I do know that some "soft" species burn better than pine. I think the main issue of burning wood with less btus is really the fact that you have to burn more of it, which means more work
@@OntarioFirewoodResource My response really wasn't directed at you but just to add to your viewers knowledge.
All good, I invite all input as well as criticism
how would one design a flu that never gets creosote and chimeny fires? is it just a matter of keeping the temperature in the flu high enough? what is that temperature?
I'm at 5,000 ft altitude in southern California looking at Mexico. 99% of what I burn is 3 different types of oak. A few hundred miles north in the mountains there's only ponderosa or Jeffrey pine for firewood.
You burn what you've got.
I'll burn cedar periodically but I'm continuously feeding the stove with that wood
It's interesting to see what wood people have access to in their area! Thanks for watching
@@OntarioFirewoodResource if you ever smelled Jeffrey pine burn you'd faint. It smells like vanilla extract. Fantastic smell
@burtvhulberthyhbn7583 That's pretty cool! I like burning cherry and birch for smell
@@OntarioFirewoodResource I know the smell of birch from Nova Scotia.
@burtvhulberthyhbn7583 ahhh nice! Ice only been out that way once, for a scout jamboree in PEI back in the 80s.
Excellent.
Thank you sir!
Thanks, that's helpful
No problem. Most people fire off a couple lines that they heard instead of really dabbling into the subject, lacking the elaborate knowledge behind the subject, but that is a common practice these days
Thanks. I burn it in my outside Firepit. Chopping for kindling good idea tho!
No problem and thank you. I sell my hardwood chafe from off the splitter for kindling but softwood equivalent is even better as hardwood doesn't light as well
@@OntarioFirewoodResource i got creative and saw a few pallets laying around neighborhood. Took the Stihl MA170 and split it up for kindling!
I have a wood stove at work and any skids that come through I cut them up for kindling, one of many sources of kindling as a lot is needer
@@OntarioFirewoodResource heck yeah!
There's some skids that have thin boards and they're reddish in colour and I've seen a couple pieces mixed in bring the temp to 900. I wonder what wood that is. Blue and orange skids are good, but the paint is a bad scene and they stink
I burn spruce and pine in the garage. Won’t burn it in the insert in the house. I sell alot of it for cheap campfire 🔥 wood.
Ya, you don't need hardwood in the garage...too small, easy to heat. Softwood is fine to burn anytime, anywhere. The only difference with softwood is that you need more volume than hardwood and it means more work to split, load, clean ashes, etc. Firewood is too much work whether your burning soft or hardwood. Inevitably I would just burn hardwood. If someone didn't mind burning softwood and doing all the work, chimney inspection should be the real gauge of their decision
Sweet
👍
All there is around here is pine and juniper. Burn pine all the time. Just make sure it is split and dry
You've got less to think about then...I'm in the big city of Toronto and I get access to so much wood but i can't consistently stock single species of firewood so I mix the species in my crates and I also do 6 species of smoker wood, so it's a lot to think about
Damn it.... I put a wedge of sappy pine in a wood burning stove after the coals we're ready hot. Didn't see the sap till after I took off my gloves and realized they were really sticky. The sap caught fire quickly. Just shut the door and pulled the air vent and let the flute stay open.
Keeping the gloves on with pine is a blessing and a curse. Wipe open damper, right choice for damage control. Thanks for watching
@@OntarioFirewoodResource still burning.... I've been watching the stack outside and it's just smoke and I touch the fireplace walls. Barely Luke warm. I presume just sit here and watch it till it's burns out complete...? The entire tubing system and wood burning stove is brand new
You should put more hardwood in so that it burns hot. Creosote forms more when there is less heat
@@OntarioFirewoodResource gotcha. Taking advice. Thank you.
No problem, thanks for watching
Tell me and all the other Alaskans you cant burn pine..lol,,,Spruce, which is basically a pine is pretty much the wood we burned, that and birch..no choice
Haha. I definitely tried to go beyond the surface answer. Thanks for watching
sorry but pine is 90% of what we have so...learn to deal with it.. also I'm the only one who cleans my chimney so....
Yes. Some people have zero access to hardwood, especially in the colder climate where you need good heat
All trees have sap , why do you think they call it maple sap!
Conifers have resins and resins are not Creosote.
Beech tree's are the king of Creosote trees and coal and Peet moss have more Creosote then beech!
Good points, thanks for watching
I burn my pine outside. Alder, fir, maple inside
@nickkk420 it's always best to use the best wood inside so less energy is spent creating heat. Good call
The picture on the title of the vid looked like canadian prepper lol
Haha I know that channel. Thanks for watching
Utter nonsense in one area you say you can't use it because it doesn't burn hot enough for secondary combustion. Then you say it burns hot and fast. Which is it?
You are right it needs to be dry just like any firewood. And it is lower density so it has fewer btus per piece. But it doesn't make any more creosote than hardwood
That's a fair point if you are continually cramming pine in the stove on a constant basis but moderate burning means the temperature goes down quickly after flare up and you have to reload again so you dont have consistent high temps. Keep in mind that pine BTU output is low overall. Pine starts with good heat and cools off quick, good hardwood starts with low heat but provides lots of heat for a long period
@@OntarioFirewoodResource
But those low temps in the end of the burn are fine. Once it is charcoal you aren't going to be making creosote regardless.
By your analysis hardwood would make more creosote. Those low temps to start when the wood is releasing the most volatiles is what makes creosote.
I personally choose not to burn much pine but that is only because of its low btu to volume ratio. But it is great in the spring and fall for a quick fire to take the chill off. And there is absolutely nothing about pine that causes more creosote buildup
@@benholler1389 You're right again about my analysis but hopefully one doesn't let their stove temps get too low between burn and reload time. When it comes down to it, outfit is creosote free, that's why we must have our chimneys swept regularly. Thanks for watching!
@@OntarioFirewoodResource
But there is nothing wrong with low temps in the cooling stage of the fire. Creosote is not produced in that stage. The only problem with letting it go to long is you will be doing a cold start. So it can be up to 15 mins untill you are up to temp instead of the normal 5 or so mins if you load at the right point.
With a modern stove run correctly with good fuel there is no reason you should need to clean more than once a year
Not my sweedish jotule lol
Lol! Thanks for watching
NO
Oh ok
Great
Thanks for watching!