I just completed the job.... Wenn did it in a public underground garage in 12h and 40minutes with noone seeing us and reporting us to the police 😅 I'm so happy my car runs so great now! Thank you so much.
Very professional job. It is difficult to do this job in service points ,with the right way, in Greece. Congratulations. I am a peugeot 106 1.1 owner with 440.000km without head gasket replacement until today....
i have a citroen xsara 1.4i gasoline from 1998 and my head gasket is in the beginning of its failing, hopefully i can do it by my own to save money thanks to this video all well professionally explained thank you so much
Hi, the 1.4 8v seems to be the most common capacity to require a head gasket. The 1.6 16v engines and the 1.1 8v less so. However its not too big a job, once the timing belt is off your almost there. It might sound like a big job but compared to what can go wrong on modern cars such as DPF's, timing chains, egr valves that can cost £1000s to put right. A TU head gasket is fairly cheap and easy to carry out. Best of luck with the repair.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thank you so much for your reply and encouragement i appreciate it, I'm gathering informations about this and will later give it a shot. 😁
Thanks for the comment, Someone said to me recently about the 1.4 TU was that its that simple a head gasket job it may aswell be done when changing the timing belt haha. Is your berlingo a 1.4?
Excellent video of a very professional head gasket job...... my only constructive suggestions would be...... you could oil up the pistons and rings/ cylinder bores BEFORE you place the head on the block, and you could put the new spark plugs in straight away, this helps prevent anything falling into the cylinders if you drop one of those fiddly manifold nuts or anything???
Thanks for that, Great advice, the problem i had here was i forgot about lubricating the bores and only remembered after i had the head torqued down. Thankfully no bolts made it down the spark plug holes but its always a risk i suppose.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hello. If i replaced thermostat gasket, radiator, checked for leaks and found none, but every week i top up a small cup of coolant, does it mean i need to replace head gasket? No bubbles in the tank
As ever a comprehensive instructional vid. I have this job to do on my sons 206 1.1. I have no doubt I will be re watching this again over the weekend. I am a big fan of your work⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
@@peugeotCitroen2CV finally finished, took me a few very cold weekends - working in temeratures below 5°C and less out in the open in February is no fun. There is very little practical difference working on a Peugeot 206 compared to this Citroen, as it was a petrol version as here. Mine had AC which was a slight embuggerance getting the exhaust manifold and head out due to the rigid cooling pipework going to the matrix. You have to support the sump as the RH (i.e. drivers side) engine mount has to be removed to access the timing belt cover but removal of the mount is straightforward. My fingers were too cold and access too tight to find the clutch flywheel locking hole so didn't bother, just locked the camshaft. Getting all the gunk out of the head bolt holes was time consuming without compressed air but - gotta be done, as was a head skim - for £30 I'd have been daft not to! I oiled the new head bolt threads lightly but they still snatched quite violently doing them up, especially as you approached 240°, but the required angle was achieved fairly accurately if I do say so myself. Maybe a dab of molybdenum grease on the bolt threads might have eased the snatching? Replaced the rad with a new one, and the thermostat and flushed it three times, once with chemicals and twice with water before final top up with coolant. Things I did wrong: Didn't take enough photo's before undoing stuff, cost me a lot of time on reassembly. Things I did right: bought a ratcheting hose clip removal tool, saved a lot of grazed knuckles and reduced the swearing considerably. Didn't bother replacing rocker gasket, inlet seals or exhaust manifold gasket - just hoped for the best and got away with it. Well... for now lol!
Excellent video. You showed everything and didn't get in the way of the camera. The viewer saw everything and it gives me great confidence in doing it myself.
Very nice job bravo! I'm from Greece and I have a problem with my Peugeot 106 xr 1.1 1994. Τhe water cooler drinks the liquids without visible signs and I think is head flange.Also I want to change timing belt.
Hi there, thanks for the comment Someone once said to me about the 1.4 TU “just change the head gasket when doing the timing belt” Seems a bit extreme but it is quite a common issue but the head gasket is very easy to change when the belt is off its only a few extra bolts.
Thanks for the comment. The 1.5d, very economical wee engines, hope the head gasket on it is still good. I remember my mum had a 1.5d 106, had to get the head gasket done once but was a great car after that.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV you guessed that my head gasket is starting to fail! impressed! Yes, it is old (17 years, 220k)and it suffered a bit of overheating when the thermostat failed... Maybe I'll try "blue devil" to solve the problem. If it doesn't work, I'll have to change the head gaskets.
Carlos Bah Ah I just remember from when these cars were more common on the road the head gasket could let go, more common on the earlier 1.4d. having said that with the mileage it has clocked up the car could be forgiven for needing a head gasket. Not sure how good them magic bottles of fluid are there would be worries they can clog up coolant passages and they are only a quick fix and can cause issues when you actually want to do the head gasket properly. Not too sure they would be worth reading into first.
Hi, what can I do if xsara TU series 1.6i from 2000 petrol engine siezed, locked by unknown cause from previous owner. I cannot turn the crankshaft in to the TDC position ? :/ Can I fix the timing belt. Should I start to repair as a beginner? My experience level based on Haynes repair book and youtube. I already assembled engine cooling panel, disassembled air filter system, disassebled spark plugs and engine starter later replaced. I took out serpentine belts. Now I am sure the engine locked. Any advice? Should I give up?
Excellent video - as are all your videos if I may say! I have religiously followed many of them for my Peugeot 406 and they have been a life saver. Can’t thank you enough. I have just been told my 2.0 406 110 Hdi (2002) automatic need the head gasket doing. Been quoted £1600 (plus poss another £600 for new head if necessary etc) Car only cost £1100 so cost prohibitive. Car was otherwise running very well - no oil in coolant, water in oil, white smoke etc. but recently started pressurising and overheating. Wondered if I should attempt it myself? Did you ever do a video on the 406 head gasket replacement? I’m not a mechanic but have successful followed many of your procedures over the years and would be happy to have a go! Many thanks once again for all you do (from a happy and grateful subscriber😊)
Hi there I never did a head gasket on a 406 but my old blue executive one that featured in a lot of the earlier videos did start mixing oil into the coolant. I suspect it was the oil cooler but i put it off the road at the time and parked it into the shed. At some time i would love to get it running again and a head gasket would make sense. Not something I've ever done but it is a tad more involved than on the likes of the saxo engine. Getting the manifold bolts at the back are quite tight on the 406, rocking the engine forwards might give a bit more room. I have removed these 2.0 engines before and it probably would be the way i would tackle the job with access to the 2 post lift. Then it gives a chance to fully inspect the engine and rest of the car and tidy various bit up. Without a lift it should be doable, a haynes manual will be you friend. Also have a look at peugeot servicebox pay for an hours subscription (about £8 if i recall) and download whatever guides pertaining to the head removal/timing belt etc that might get you though the job. £1600 is probably about what a mechanic will have to charge to cover their time and expenses, like everyone else their operating costs will have gone up and they need to charge more to stay afloat. Although price around, might be an option to source a good engine and just do an engine swap. There is a good selection of cars that used the 2.0 engine.
Hi there, they are quite light wee fasteners, i cant actually remember what the torque spec was for them, most likely well below 10Nm which was lower than my torque wrench at the time could have done. A haynes manual or if you ask on owners clubs should be able to say.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply.. I eventualy did it manualy , by hunch.. First time it leaked a bit, but after small correction, everything is ok now..
Nice video !! But, i think you have to unsrew the head bolts in reverse order ( in order to reduce the chance of warping the head ) . First, you have to unscrew the bolt No 10 ..next No 9 etc.. until No 1.
@@mclarenjohnf1 I do remember following a haynes manual, the car worked after this repair although it has since been scrapped the autobox became quite undriveable. It was replaced with a Honda Jazz, the saxo was getting a bit old making some parts harder to find.
Hi there, thanks for the comment. Tools, sorry i dont really focus on them in the videos i know some tutorials can but they then get a bit long winded naming every tool that will be featured in the rest of the video. However i can also appreciate if you have not worked on cars before and intend to buy tools to tackle a job like this. Have a watch through the video if there is any tools you need to ask about i can let you know what i am using and if i would recommend them In general though - Jack and axle stands (halfords), i would use the 2 post lift now but this job at the time was done before it was bought. - oil drain pan for oil or coolant, also get a 25l drum to pour the contents into so it can be brought to your local amenity site - sockets; 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. Each size range comes in handy for different regions of the car. 1/4 mostly for smaller parts, 1/2 for bigger thngs like driveshaft nuts, head bolts etc. 3/8 is a good inbetween size. 1/2 drive with a 1/2 breaker bar was used to remove the head bolts as they are very tight. As for brands i like teng tools as my grandpa had a set he bought in the 80s, still there on the farm. Sealey, Draper, Clarke, Wera, are all good, even socket sets from Lidl are good. Halfords is handy because they have a lifetime warranty, although i have had to use it a few times. If your feeling flush snap-on is the top of the range but very very pricey. - Torque wrench, i have a teng tools 1/2 torque wrench which was used to set the torque for the head bolts. I should have also bought an angle indicator gague but used a piece of paper with the angles marked. A bit sketchy but it worked. - spanners. 8-19mm from any of the brands already mentioned. Ratcheting spanners are very handy. - pliers: irwin groovelock waterpump pliers for the hose clamps are very useful - trim removal took for plastic rivets and clips, this is the first link i spotted, plenty available online: www.amazon.com.au/Plastic-Fastener-Remover-Clip-Removal/dp/B0734VKNYK - screwdrivers: a set from lidl would be grand, i have a teng tools set plus any ive just bought over the years. Small cheap flathead screwdrivers that can be bought in boxes of 100 for about £10 are very handy for releasing connectors or clips. - the impact wrench; in the past i started off with a clarke mains operated one, pneumatic is an expensive option when starting off as you will need a compressor and airline. Mains operated ones are not bad, just a bit heavy and can be too powerful. The Milwaukee 18v cordless ones are the best you can buy but may not be needed if starting off. Lidl have had cordless impact wrenches in from time to time at £80 which would be quite good. a fluid extractor was used, i think it was a sealey one that my cousin owned. Lidl sell 12v oil suction pumps which work just as well for cleaning out things such as the holes where the head bolts go, also handy when draining out things like the oil filter housing on some cars. The funnel to fill the coolant was a lisle 24680, coolant fill kit. However as its something for the american market i did have to use a couple of old PSA coolant reservoir caps and drill them to work with this kit. Thankfully the same cap that does a Peugeot 406 also worked on most 90's and 2000s Peugeot and Citroen cars. A head torch is also worth mentioning, far handier than any hand held unit as the light is always where you need it. Thats a bit long winded but hopefully covers what tools are used here.
Best video of this job. Many thanks. I noticed that you did not put any sealant/silicone when installing the new head gasket. Is that not needed on my 1.4 16v engine? Thanks
Hi there thanks for the comment. Regarding the head gasket, no you dont use any sealant for the head gasket. Make sure both the head and the block are spotlessly clean. Preferably the head will be skimmed. The head gasket does all of the sealing on its own. Not sure of any cars where you use sealant along with the head gasket.
Hi there It has been a fair while since i did this job, i think i might have drained the oil the car got a full coolant flush due to the oil going into the coolant. Just cant remember 100% what i did but draining the oil would be good practice.
Its not a bad engine, although going to the auctions frequently i do notice a lot of 1.4 8v with chocolate coolant. The o ring separating the oil passage to the head and coolant water jacket goes and causes oil in the water. A new head gasket and a skim usually resolves it. The 1.4 16v engine doesnt seem to suffer it as badly, nor is it as big a problem on the 1.1 8v Good old K series, there is a neighbour has an old R8 414 and im quite sure its been sitting there because of the head gasket. Id love to buy it and fit the uprated head gasket and dowel pins. I dont think they were as bad as people imagined.
Thanks, the o rings generally should not leak unless the engine has been turned over with the head off, that will disturb the liners and then the o rings will need to be replaced which is quite a bit more engine surgery than just changing the head gasket.
How did you clean pistons 2 and 3 as you shouldn't turn the engine over without placing a clamp over the liners to stop them moving up on the piston upstroke when they risk breaking their seal at the bottom letting in water? I make a clamp using the old cylinder head bolts and a bar across the tops of the liners so I can turn engine brings pistons 2 and 3 to the top while the liners cannot move. Once at the top the pistons are much easier to clean up and also stops crud getting in the bores. I am a bit worried though as the tops of the cylinder liners in contact with the head gasket on my car are a bit pitted from corrosion in places. Engine has only done 60k miles.
Toto video by mělo pomoci, pokud je to jen pás, který musíte změnit. Mám také další video pokrývající pouze cambelt na pozdějším voze Citroen C3 s tímto motorem 1,4 8v TU: th-cam.com/video/lt0Y-G1jHls/w-d-xo.html
Hi there, unfortunately i do not have the haynes manual to hand but that is what i would use. Also try the owners clubs there is always someone with that information memorised. Although i would say be careful with water pump bolts, they are usually in the sub 10Nm category which means a 1/4 torque wrench. I much prefer to tighten bolts this small by hand as i have snapped bolts in the past due to the torque wrench being out of calibration.
Great job ! What's that reving up and down sound the first time you fired the engine after the job ? My peugeot 106 1.4 (1993 model) makes that noise every morning but every time I visit the workshop it stops. Any ideas ?
I think this is absolutely normal, especially in the winter times. My AX was doing the same thing at the winter time and much longer and louder . Now it almost dont happend. I dont think it affect the engine anyway.
Hi that was the car recalibrating its idle speed, this is controlled by the idle control valve. They can give some problems with age although they should be fairly easy to change. You have mentioned your car is a 1993 car, is that one with a carburettor? This Saxo has fuel injection and would have used this valve. It may be possible that if the 106 you mention has a carburettor it may have an automatic choke which is causing this issue. One key bit of advice i will give is if the problem is intermittent and not manifesting when you are at the garage the next time it does do it, get your phone out and record a video of it happening and bring that to the garage.
No i do not have a list of required tools, not something i tend to do as the tools appear when they are used throughout the video. However i would recommend a comprehensive socket set, the Halfords 200 piece socket set is hard to go wrong, a torque wrench, Irwin water pump pliers, a general set of pliers (side cutters and ordinary pliers) a screwdriver set. Also worth considering an impact wrench for working around cars, the Milwaukee 18v ones are brilliant but may be a tad pricey. For around £50 a mains operated one will work quite well. A lisle 24680 spill free funnel is handy for bleeding coolant systems. Finally a jack and axle stands.
Thanks for the comment, greetings from ireland What is the french automotive scene like? Here cars like the Saxo/106 have become a rare sight, are they any more common in france?
Oh and btw, do you know where that vacuum pipe / hose close at 4:02 is for? In my car it has been partially removed and cut off: the one hand of the hose where it comes from close to the left headlight sits just open, and at the place where it should be plugged in close to the throttle valve is a torx plug to close it off..
One of the easiest there are to learn on, not a bad engine although you do have to be vigilent with the 1.4 head gasket failure seems to be an inevitability on them at some point, thankfully its easy to sort.
To be honest i just brought the head to an engine builder/machinists to check if it needed skimmed, he did the skim and charged £40, i did not get much information as to how much had been removed. Being a 5dr and Automatic performance was not a huge concern with this one.
+NZKY - If the intention is to increase compression make sure you get a "standard" head gasket (thinner). By memory I think this series of engines have 3 thickness available. They can be identified by the notches on the side. Although don't overdue otherwise you might end up with a broken engine or the obligation to use 98 gas instead of the cheaper 95. :-)
The coolant should be flushed every 5 years (that is usually what the better coolants are rated to last for) after that the chemical blend in the coolant responsible for preventing corrosion inside the engine becomes less effective. First step would be to flush the coolant throughly and refill the system with a strong mix of new coolant and water. That should resolve the issue
@@peugeotCitroen2CV oh wow I wasn't expecting an answer... Thank you kind sir. But even after the coolant flush it still would be a good idea to replace radiator, water pump, heater core; because im pretty sure its the original ones and the previous owner didn't bother much
@@urboideiba4514 Haha this isnt that big of a channel that i cant reply to comments. Um regarding the radiator, give it a visual check and try flowing water through the top and out the bottom to see if it has clogged up. It might still be usable, although i think they can be bought new for under £100. Water pump is worth doing with a cambelt replacement, heater core (heater matrix) generally will not need changed unless it is leaking, quite a difficult part to get to as it usually requires the dash to be removed. No a normal flush should generally suffice, if you want to go a step above crush a diswasher tablet up and run it through the system for a few days then give the car another flush.
I'm not sure about this engine layout; a 2000 1.4 Tu3 should already have a coilpack instead of the spark plug cable setup, and the valve cover also from an earlier year. Might have had its engine swapped for an older one? My Peugeot 106 1.4 Sport seems to have head gasket problems too, found some smudge in the coolant (not so much as this Saxo, only a few dots) and it is leaking some oil close to the timing belt (people say these are signs of head gasket leak) so I'm ordering the parts as we speak (love how cheap they are for a 106 1.4) and a friend who is mechanic will do the job for a reduced rate. A regular car garage would ask around 500 for the job, and the car is not really worth such an investment. Also doing the timing belt at the same time, because i dont know the mileage on the current belt, and the mileage on the clock might be off because for some reason it resets itself to 190,000 kms after reaching 200,000 (so who knows how many times it already did that..)
Its not too bad considering its age to have a head gasket to do, but yes it would write many of them off, i was considering scrapping the Saxo initially but then decided to fix it.
I've just saved a citroen c2 1.1 05 from the scrap yard nothing wrong with it apart from the common oil leak on the left corner on head gasket above alternator. Would you think tightening the 3 head bolts on the left side where oil leak would work ?
Definatley the radiator and not the oil cap? What sort of car is this on, what type of engine. Generally oil in the cooling system is not good, very occasionally it can be the oil cooler which has failed some 2.0 HDi engines will do that, otherwise its time to look about removing the head, having it skimmed and a new head gasket fitted.
Ah thats quite a bit different the engine oil cap. How much mayonaise is there, does the car sit unused for periods of time, also what is the climate like in your country? Give the oil cap a wipe clean, possibly also give the engine an oil change, consider using a flush also and keep an eye on the oil cap to see if the mayonaise stays away. Also how is the rest of the car, is the temperature gague staying in the normal range, is the coolant clean, is the coolant or oil levels noticably changing.
I drive 130 km almost everyday. Long time ago one of my 50 fuse got broken and ventilator stop working but I already fixed that. If the car is in idle the temp goes really high. Of course ventilator works now and 2 sensors has been changed. temperature in the Netherlands is between 17 and 20 degrees. Oil levels has been changed and it is now in the second stripe. I needed to seal oil tank because it was leaking. I've never get broken on the highway. All what I fixed all my car has been learned from you and I've been doing everything myself.
The fuse blew for the radiator fan, if the fan is fixed can you definatley hear it operating. Without the fan it should be fine apart from when the car as you say is idling in traffic or a car park. Although it may be worthwhile flushing the coolant, changing the thermostat and bleeding it to ensure the cooling system is working at full efficency.
Still a TU3 as far as i can tell, looks similar to my sisters 2005 206, apart from a coil pack. Having said that this saxo was a bit of an oddity at times getting spare parts for it being the 1.4 auto may have led to citroen throwing whatever parts they had lying about.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks )) i worked.. Have another issue now.. assembled everything back on.. wich the marks in place..but wil not start now..The timing is wrong...don't now why...the marks are correct and everything...
@@maxims.762 Its spinning over freely? Have you checked to ensure that there is fuel getting to the injector rail, has the plug for the injectors been plugged in (forgot that multiple times myself) Can you remove the coil pack and spark plugs to check that they are sparking?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Yes, checked it all.. Fuel is ok, spark is ok, all the plugs pluged in... But, i think that i found it... Nothing else was lose exept the head and the belt.. I collegue told me that today... When u changed/ take of the head, and the head gets skimmed, that u always have to check the valve clearance afterwards...The only thing i din't think of))) stupid of me ))... So i think next weekend i will check and adjust the clearance and hopefully the little bug will start afterwards ))) sound familiar to you maybe from experience? ))
Im not sure i bought the car and although i gave it a quick check forgot completely to look in the radiator. It didn't seem to have overheated and the man who skimmed the head said that the failure occurred where the oil goes to the head, i think thats more common on these TU engines than a failure of the gasket between the cylinders.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm in exactly the same situation, bought without checking. Now very grateful for your video. Now all I need is your skill and equipment. Thanks.
A deformed valve/rocker cover? Its only a bit of pressed steel so if it has been deformed (i assume by some form of physical damage) replacements are still fairly easy to obtain.
Nuno Azevedo This was because when cleaning the surface of the block and the piston tops i used degreaser and quite a lot went around the sides when it was sprayed, thus washing any oil film that there may have been on the cylinder bores. The oil in the spark plugs was added to replace this, in other words to stop the engine from "starting up dry" the oil was quickly burnt off but it should have prevented damage to the bores.
😂😂😂😂, interesting though, cos my headgasket looks like it's on the way out, and garages want 700 to do a new one. The coolant is full of oil, but it's not milky where I put the oil in. Doesn't miss fire, no smoke, and doesn't overheat. Mot is out in January and I only paid 400 for it, and it's 07 plate imactulate inside and out. First c2 I've owned and don't k ow whether it's worth fixing as value is only 1500 on insurance
@@Blinkydabill Unfortunately its how the head gasket fails on these the seal between the oil gallery and the coolant rather than into the cylinders. £700 is a fair whack to spend on a C2 nowadays. Its worth giving it a go yourself, get a new belt kit and have the head skimmed it will leave it a good car, you should be able to get the parts and head skimmed for under £300
I'll just wait till it goes bang, 400 quid, what did I expect. If it lasts to its mot then I'll be laughing. Will a head gasket fail an mot? ( that's how thick I am😂)
I know they can give trouble with head gaskets, a few relatives have 1.1 TU engines and never had any HG issues. Fingers crossed it lasts more than 2 years haha.
I ragged hard on a 1.1 for 24k, it got hot ONCE for no reason whilst driving normally, never happened again, and no HG issues! also, there are some good cooling system degreaser additives out there. :)
+John McDonald - Many of this engines head bolts are not properly torqued. That's the main reason why the head gaskets fail. I got a 106 1.1 in poor condition I knew the head gasket was gone. what I didn't knew then is that the head bolts where literally loose. Specially on the exhaust side, some took 2 full turns until some resistance could be felt. Main reason why I always suggest checking bolts torque before any valve adjustment. That save a lot of head gaskets. ;-) Edit: for this engines I've seen technical manuals suggesting torque/rotation combinations like 20Nm+260° or 40Nm/+360°... HUGE difference and surely responsible for many gaskets issues.
This is supposed to be an "easy" job for mechanics. Still a load of gubbins to take off and put back mind you. Nice job and the only time I find these jobs good.............is when they are done!
Its one of the easier engines to strip down to do a head gasket, a mate actually said recently that when doing the cambelt on a 1.4 TU you may aswell do the head gasket at the same time for its such an easy thing to change when the engine is stripped that far and it seems so common on the 1.4.
Ángel 306 Great to hear from a keyboard mechanic The valves were checked over by the business that dealt with the head skimming. As for the pistons tell me as a professional yourself what checks? In a long time this engine did not fail
Someone noticed haha It was something i did by accident one day then figured out that it keeps the good side clean haha, been doing it quite a bit now when working on cars.
Funny i never even thought about that, i assume one would need to be fairly sensitive to the seams for it to affect comfort. An interesting way of looking at it.
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I just completed the job.... Wenn did it in a public underground garage in 12h and 40minutes with noone seeing us and reporting us to the police 😅 I'm so happy my car runs so great now! Thank you so much.
Happy days, well done for doing it where you did. good to hear it is running again
I wouldnt mind! At the end of the Day its your transportation 🐦
Very professional job. It is difficult to do this job in service points ,with the right way, in Greece. Congratulations. I am a peugeot 106 1.1 owner with 440.000km without head gasket replacement until today....
Long journeys and good coolant avoids a headgasket change. Short journeys do destroy them
@@nihonkokusai Also let engine warm up before driving...
Afou eimaste eladistan
440.000 km? Damn
peugeot 106 1.1 owner with impressive 440,000km in a small engine, what oil gets in the engine?
i have a citroen xsara 1.4i gasoline from 1998 and my head gasket is in the beginning of its failing, hopefully i can do it by my own to save money thanks to this video all well professionally explained thank you so much
Hi, the 1.4 8v seems to be the most common capacity to require a head gasket. The 1.6 16v engines and the 1.1 8v less so. However its not too big a job, once the timing belt is off your almost there. It might sound like a big job but compared to what can go wrong on modern cars such as DPF's, timing chains, egr valves that can cost £1000s to put right. A TU head gasket is fairly cheap and easy to carry out.
Best of luck with the repair.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thank you so much for your reply and encouragement i appreciate it, I'm gathering informations about this and will later give it a shot. 😁
@@difsid569 No problem, glad to help.
Great job, beautifully clear video! Makes me want to replace the head gasket on my Berlingo, and it doesn't even need it ;-)
Thanks for the comment,
Someone said to me recently about the 1.4 TU was that its that simple a head gasket job it may aswell be done when changing the timing belt haha.
Is your berlingo a 1.4?
Nice job - good to see attention to detail such as removing oil or debris from the cylinder head bolt holes.
I fully concur!
Excellent video of a very professional head gasket job...... my only constructive suggestions would be...... you could oil up the pistons and rings/ cylinder bores BEFORE you place the head on the block, and you could put the new spark plugs in straight away, this helps prevent anything falling into the cylinders if you drop one of those fiddly manifold nuts or anything???
Thanks for that,
Great advice, the problem i had here was i forgot about lubricating the bores and only remembered after i had the head torqued down. Thankfully no bolts made it down the spark plug holes but its always a risk i suppose.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV hello. If i replaced thermostat gasket, radiator, checked for leaks and found none, but every week i top up a small cup of coolant, does it mean i need to replace head gasket? No bubbles in the tank
As ever a comprehensive instructional vid. I have this job to do on my sons 206 1.1. I have no doubt I will be re watching this again over the weekend. I am a big fan of your work⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Thanks for the comment and the very best of luck with the repair, let me know how it goes.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV finally finished, took me a few very cold weekends - working in temeratures below 5°C and less out in the open in February is no fun. There is very little practical difference working on a Peugeot 206 compared to this Citroen, as it was a petrol version as here. Mine had AC which was a slight embuggerance getting the exhaust manifold and head out due to the rigid cooling pipework going to the matrix.
You have to support the sump as the RH (i.e. drivers side) engine mount has to be removed to access the timing belt cover but removal of the mount is straightforward. My fingers were too cold and access too tight to find the clutch flywheel locking hole so didn't bother, just locked the camshaft.
Getting all the gunk out of the head bolt holes was time consuming without compressed air but - gotta be done, as was a head skim - for £30 I'd have been daft not to! I oiled the new head bolt threads lightly but they still snatched quite violently doing them up, especially as you approached 240°, but the required angle was achieved fairly accurately if I do say so myself. Maybe a dab of molybdenum grease on the bolt threads might have eased the snatching?
Replaced the rad with a new one, and the thermostat and flushed it three times, once with chemicals and twice with water before final top up with coolant.
Things I did wrong: Didn't take enough photo's before undoing stuff, cost me a lot of time on reassembly.
Things I did right: bought a ratcheting hose clip removal tool, saved a lot of grazed knuckles and reduced the swearing considerably.
Didn't bother replacing rocker gasket, inlet seals or exhaust manifold gasket - just hoped for the best and got away with it. Well... for now lol!
@@roberthorwat6747
Great write up, thanks for sharing.
The term 'slight embuggerance' love it haha
Excellent video. You showed everything and didn't get in the way of the camera. The viewer saw everything and it gives me great confidence in doing it myself.
Thanks very much, glad you liked the video and camera work. Best of luck if you go to attempt this job!
Quite a precious video. Thank you so very much.
Greetings from Portugal.
Thanks for the comment, good to hear from Portugal, greetings from Ireland.
Vielen Dank für die Anleitung aus Deutschland. Die Zylinderkopfschrauben sollten aber in umgekehrter Reihenfolge gelöst werden.
Hi there, worthwhile and useful advice. Thankfully the head was getting skimmed anyhow which would have ensured it was flat.
I like the lack of sound, I don't have to pause the eurobeat even for a head gasket!
I would be partial to a bit of jazz but normally keep it muted and let the viewers open another tab and supply their own soundtrack haha
Very nice job bravo! I'm from Greece and I have a problem with my Peugeot 106 xr 1.1 1994. Τhe water cooler drinks the liquids without visible signs and I think is head flange.Also I want to change timing belt.
Hi there, thanks for the comment
Someone once said to me about the 1.4 TU “just change the head gasket when doing the timing belt”
Seems a bit extreme but it is quite a common issue but the head gasket is very easy to change when the belt is off its only a few extra bolts.
Superb video. Owner of a Saxo 1.5d , Spain. Thank you for sharing your very good work
Thanks for the comment.
The 1.5d, very economical wee engines, hope the head gasket on it is still good. I remember my mum had a 1.5d 106, had to get the head gasket done once but was a great car after that.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV you guessed that my head gasket is starting to fail! impressed!
Yes, it is old (17 years, 220k)and it suffered a bit of overheating when the thermostat failed...
Maybe I'll try "blue devil" to solve the problem. If it doesn't work, I'll have to change the head gaskets.
Carlos Bah
Ah I just remember from when these cars were more common on the road the head gasket could let go, more common on the earlier 1.4d. having said that with the mileage it has clocked up the car could be forgiven for needing a head gasket. Not sure how good them magic bottles of fluid are there would be worries they can clog up coolant passages and they are only a quick fix and can cause issues when you actually want to do the head gasket properly. Not too sure they would be worth reading into first.
Excellent and perfect job good way of teaching God bless you
Thanks
gonna replace my headgasket on my daily drive Peugeot 106 TU1. I'm a bit nervous but with this video it will happen correctly for sure!
Its well worth giving it a go, one of the easier engines to change a head gasket on.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV well it has been done now, it hasn't started yet, since im waiting on a new radiator. but thanks to your guide, I made it through!
@@mutevibesgaming8616 Fantastic, fingers crossed for the first startup. Post a video when its running.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV just started it yesterday and did a bigger test drive today, I'll post a video of it soon. Thanks again!
@@peugeotCitroen2CV videos are online! I'll make them private on monday again bc of privacy reasons
Hi, what can I do if xsara TU series 1.6i from 2000 petrol engine siezed, locked by unknown cause from previous owner. I cannot turn the crankshaft in to the TDC position ? :/ Can I fix the timing belt. Should I start to repair as a beginner? My experience level based on Haynes repair book and youtube. I already assembled engine cooling panel, disassembled air filter system, disassebled spark plugs and engine starter later replaced. I took out serpentine belts. Now I am sure the engine locked. Any advice? Should I give up?
Excellent video - as are all your videos if I may say! I have religiously followed many of them for my Peugeot 406 and they have been a life saver. Can’t thank you enough.
I have just been told my 2.0 406 110 Hdi (2002) automatic need the head gasket doing. Been quoted £1600 (plus poss another £600 for new head if necessary etc) Car only cost £1100 so cost prohibitive.
Car was otherwise running very well - no oil in coolant, water in oil, white smoke etc. but recently started pressurising and overheating. Wondered if I should attempt it myself? Did you ever do a video on the 406 head gasket replacement? I’m not a mechanic but have successful followed many of your procedures over the years and would be happy to have a go! Many thanks once again for all you do (from a happy and grateful subscriber😊)
Hi there
I never did a head gasket on a 406 but my old blue executive one that featured in a lot of the earlier videos did start mixing oil into the coolant. I suspect it was the oil cooler but i put it off the road at the time and parked it into the shed. At some time i would love to get it running again and a head gasket would make sense.
Not something I've ever done but it is a tad more involved than on the likes of the saxo engine. Getting the manifold bolts at the back are quite tight on the 406, rocking the engine forwards might give a bit more room. I have removed these 2.0 engines before and it probably would be the way i would tackle the job with access to the 2 post lift. Then it gives a chance to fully inspect the engine and rest of the car and tidy various bit up. Without a lift it should be doable, a haynes manual will be you friend. Also have a look at peugeot servicebox pay for an hours subscription (about £8 if i recall) and download whatever guides pertaining to the head removal/timing belt etc that might get you though the job.
£1600 is probably about what a mechanic will have to charge to cover their time and expenses, like everyone else their operating costs will have gone up and they need to charge more to stay afloat. Although price around, might be an option to source a good engine and just do an engine swap. There is a good selection of cars that used the 2.0 engine.
I have 106 with TU3JP so this is a good info for me. Thanks for a good video.
Thanks for the comment
Hi, on 22:22 "Reinstalling the rocker cover" - What force should we apply on the bolts, when we tightening it?
Thanks for the video!
Hi there, they are quite light wee fasteners, i cant actually remember what the torque spec was for them, most likely well below 10Nm which was lower than my torque wrench at the time could have done. A haynes manual or if you ask on owners clubs should be able to say.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV thanks for the reply.. I eventualy did it manualy , by hunch..
First time it leaked a bit, but after small correction, everything is ok now..
Nice video !! But, i think you have to unsrew the head bolts in reverse order ( in order to reduce the chance of warping the head ) . First, you have to unscrew the bolt No 10 ..next No 9 etc.. until No 1.
Ah fair point haha, good job i got the head skimmed then.
Wrong
@@peugeotCitroen2CV you did it the right way so say peugeot.
@@mclarenjohnf1 I do remember following a haynes manual, the car worked after this repair although it has since been scrapped the autobox became quite undriveable. It was replaced with a Honda Jazz, the saxo was getting a bit old making some parts harder to find.
Amazing video. Thanks a lot! Nice trick to pull the head.
Professional work, very detailed.
Thanks for the comment
Where I can find the video of checking the valve clearance??
Great job loads of information, top notch thank you ❤
Thanks for the comment
The video is helpful and thank you for making it, my only question is what are the tools you used to do the job
Hi there, thanks for the comment.
Tools, sorry i dont really focus on them in the videos i know some tutorials can but they then get a bit long winded naming every tool that will be featured in the rest of the video.
However i can also appreciate if you have not worked on cars before and intend to buy tools to tackle a job like this.
Have a watch through the video if there is any tools you need to ask about i can let you know what i am using and if i would recommend them
In general though
- Jack and axle stands (halfords), i would use the 2 post lift now but this job at the time was done before it was bought.
- oil drain pan for oil or coolant, also get a 25l drum to pour the contents into so it can be brought to your local amenity site
- sockets; 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. Each size range comes in handy for different regions of the car. 1/4 mostly for smaller parts, 1/2 for bigger thngs like driveshaft nuts, head bolts etc. 3/8 is a good inbetween size. 1/2 drive with a 1/2 breaker bar was used to remove the head bolts as they are very tight.
As for brands i like teng tools as my grandpa had a set he bought in the 80s, still there on the farm. Sealey, Draper, Clarke, Wera, are all good, even socket sets from Lidl are good. Halfords is handy because they have a lifetime warranty, although i have had to use it a few times.
If your feeling flush snap-on is the top of the range but very very pricey.
- Torque wrench, i have a teng tools 1/2 torque wrench which was used to set the torque for the head bolts. I should have also bought an angle indicator gague but used a piece of paper with the angles marked. A bit sketchy but it worked.
- spanners. 8-19mm from any of the brands already mentioned. Ratcheting spanners are very handy.
- pliers: irwin groovelock waterpump pliers for the hose clamps are very useful
- trim removal took for plastic rivets and clips, this is the first link i spotted, plenty available online: www.amazon.com.au/Plastic-Fastener-Remover-Clip-Removal/dp/B0734VKNYK
- screwdrivers: a set from lidl would be grand, i have a teng tools set plus any ive just bought over the years. Small cheap flathead screwdrivers that can be bought in boxes of 100 for about £10 are very handy for releasing connectors or clips.
- the impact wrench; in the past i started off with a clarke mains operated one, pneumatic is an expensive option when starting off as you will need a compressor and airline. Mains operated ones are not bad, just a bit heavy and can be too powerful. The Milwaukee 18v cordless ones are the best you can buy but may not be needed if starting off. Lidl have had cordless impact wrenches in from time to time at £80 which would be quite good.
a fluid extractor was used, i think it was a sealey one that my cousin owned. Lidl sell 12v oil suction pumps which work just as well for cleaning out things such as the holes where the head bolts go, also handy when draining out things like the oil filter housing on some cars.
The funnel to fill the coolant was a lisle 24680, coolant fill kit. However as its something for the american market i did have to use a couple of old PSA coolant reservoir caps and drill them to work with this kit. Thankfully the same cap that does a Peugeot 406 also worked on most 90's and 2000s Peugeot and Citroen cars.
A head torch is also worth mentioning, far handier than any hand held unit as the light is always where you need it.
Thats a bit long winded but hopefully covers what tools are used here.
Pravo profesionalno respekt. Big like
Very good job 👍
Best video of this job. Many thanks. I noticed that you did not put any sealant/silicone when installing the new head gasket. Is that not needed on my 1.4 16v engine? Thanks
Hi there thanks for the comment.
Regarding the head gasket, no you dont use any sealant for the head gasket. Make sure both the head and the block are spotlessly clean. Preferably the head will be skimmed. The head gasket does all of the sealing on its own. Not sure of any cars where you use sealant along with the head gasket.
Did you drain the oil first? Cheers
Hi there
It has been a fair while since i did this job, i think i might have drained the oil the car got a full coolant flush due to the oil going into the coolant. Just cant remember 100% what i did but draining the oil would be good practice.
Whats your opinion for this engine?its reliable?i have a mg zr vvc mk2 very reliable to me no hg problems,but i love saxo 1.4 its worth to buy it?
Its not a bad engine, although going to the auctions frequently i do notice a lot of 1.4 8v with chocolate coolant.
The o ring separating the oil passage to the head and coolant water jacket goes and causes oil in the water. A new head gasket and a skim usually resolves it. The 1.4 16v engine doesnt seem to suffer it as badly, nor is it as big a problem on the 1.1 8v
Good old K series, there is a neighbour has an old R8 414 and im quite sure its been sitting there because of the head gasket. Id love to buy it and fit the uprated head gasket and dowel pins. I dont think they were as bad as people imagined.
brilliant video and great notes! thanks..
Thank you very much for the comment
Quality advice and tutorial. Thank you.
How do I know it was not the liner o rings leaking.
Thanks, the o rings generally should not leak unless the engine has been turned over with the head off, that will disturb the liners and then the o rings will need to be replaced which is quite a bit more engine surgery than just changing the head gasket.
Very good job thanks for sharing
Thank you! Cheers!
How did you clean pistons 2 and 3 as you shouldn't turn the engine over without placing a clamp over the liners to stop them moving up on the piston upstroke when they risk breaking their seal at the bottom letting in water? I make a clamp using the old cylinder head bolts and a bar across the tops of the liners so I can turn engine brings pistons 2 and 3 to the top while the liners cannot move. Once at the top the pistons are much easier to clean up and also stops crud getting in the bores. I am a bit worried though as the tops of the cylinder liners in contact with the head gasket on my car are a bit pitted from corrosion in places. Engine has only done 60k miles.
Moje malá připomínka-vyměnil bych při této příležitosti minimálně rozvodový řemen, když ne komplet rozvody.Jinak video návod? 👍👍👍
Toto video by mělo pomoci, pokud je to jen pás, který musíte změnit. Mám také další video pokrývající pouze cambelt na pozdějším voze Citroen C3 s tímto motorem 1,4 8v TU:
th-cam.com/video/lt0Y-G1jHls/w-d-xo.html
Hi I wonder if you could help me I need the tourqe specs for the water pump on a Peugeot 206 1.1i 2005 plate. Thanks and hope to hear from you soon.
Hi there, unfortunately i do not have the haynes manual to hand but that is what i would use. Also try the owners clubs there is always someone with that information memorised.
Although i would say be careful with water pump bolts, they are usually in the sub 10Nm category which means a 1/4 torque wrench. I much prefer to tighten bolts this small by hand as i have snapped bolts in the past due to the torque wrench being out of calibration.
Thank you for the help! Do you think is possible to take the head off with the intake on??
Hi, yes as far as i know its possible although personally i prefer to remove it to gain improved access.
Great job ! What's that reving up and down sound the first time you fired the engine after the job ? My peugeot 106 1.4 (1993 model) makes that noise every morning but every time I visit the workshop it stops. Any ideas ?
I think this is absolutely normal, especially in the winter times. My AX was doing the same thing at the winter time and much longer and louder . Now it almost dont happend. I dont think it affect the engine anyway.
Hi that was the car recalibrating its idle speed, this is controlled by the idle control valve. They can give some problems with age although they should be fairly easy to change.
You have mentioned your car is a 1993 car, is that one with a carburettor? This Saxo has fuel injection and would have used this valve. It may be possible that if the 106 you mention has a carburettor it may have an automatic choke which is causing this issue.
One key bit of advice i will give is if the problem is intermittent and not manifesting when you are at the garage the next time it does do it, get your phone out and record a video of it happening and bring that to the garage.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Hi, the car is fuel injected (one of the early 106s). I'll try to record it thanks for the advise!
remove the bolt outside to inside good job
Thanks for the comment
A big thanks for this really helped alot on my 1.1
Great to hear it helped, thanks for the comment.
Superb work very impressive , good video skills and layout of each step
Thanks, it took a bit of time to edit together but glad to hear it helps
Great video. Do you have a list of tools needed ?
No i do not have a list of required tools, not something i tend to do as the tools appear when they are used throughout the video.
However i would recommend a comprehensive socket set, the Halfords 200 piece socket set is hard to go wrong, a torque wrench, Irwin water pump pliers, a general set of pliers (side cutters and ordinary pliers) a screwdriver set. Also worth considering an impact wrench for working around cars, the Milwaukee 18v ones are brilliant but may be a tad pricey. For around £50 a mains operated one will work quite well. A lisle 24680 spill free funnel is handy for bleeding coolant systems. Finally a jack and axle stands.
Very nice video thank you. Hello from France
Thanks for the comment, greetings from ireland
What is the french automotive scene like? Here cars like the Saxo/106 have become a rare sight, are they any more common in france?
Oh and btw, do you know where that vacuum pipe / hose close at 4:02 is for? In my car it has been partially removed and cut off: the one hand of the hose where it comes from close to the left headlight sits just open, and at the place where it should be plugged in close to the throttle valve is a torx plug to close it off..
Thats for the crankcase breather system, its best if that is left as the factory had it
How many miles does the head-gasket need to be replaced?
Depending on driving conditions. On only highways I have seen 130k mls and city only 60k
Hey so I would like to know what can I do if my peugeot 106 only runs on 3 cylinders instead of 4? One of them stop working after it gets heated up.
Does it have the coil pack that goes over the 4 plugs or is it 4 individual ht leads to the plugs?
I think the unknown thingy is the antiparasitic cap so you dont listen the engine rev from your loudspeakers!
Thanks for that, couldnt quite give it a name at the time haha
Very simple engine to work,nice job!
One of the easiest there are to learn on, not a bad engine although you do have to be vigilent with the 1.4 head gasket failure seems to be an inevitability on them at some point, thankfully its easy to sort.
very educational
Thanks :)
Do you would recommand to plan the head at 0,1-0,2 mm for better compression?
I mean you will have to work on it anyway
To be honest i just brought the head to an engine builder/machinists to check if it needed skimmed, he did the skim and charged £40, i did not get much information as to how much had been removed.
Being a 5dr and Automatic performance was not a huge concern with this one.
+NZKY - If the intention is to increase compression make sure you get a "standard" head gasket (thinner). By memory I think this series of engines have 3 thickness available. They can be identified by the notches on the side.
Although don't overdue otherwise you might end up with a broken engine or the obligation to use 98 gas instead of the cheaper 95. :-)
I have a xsara 1.4I and the coolant is rusty what could be the issue?
The coolant should be flushed every 5 years (that is usually what the better coolants are rated to last for) after that the chemical blend in the coolant responsible for preventing corrosion inside the engine becomes less effective. First step would be to flush the coolant throughly and refill the system with a strong mix of new coolant and water. That should resolve the issue
@@peugeotCitroen2CV oh wow I wasn't expecting an answer...
Thank you kind sir.
But even after the coolant flush it still would be a good idea to replace radiator, water pump, heater core; because im pretty sure its the original ones and the previous owner didn't bother much
@@urboideiba4514
Haha this isnt that big of a channel that i cant reply to comments.
Um regarding the radiator, give it a visual check and try flowing water through the top and out the bottom to see if it has clogged up. It might still be usable, although i think they can be bought new for under £100.
Water pump is worth doing with a cambelt replacement, heater core (heater matrix) generally will not need changed unless it is leaking, quite a difficult part to get to as it usually requires the dash to be removed.
No a normal flush should generally suffice, if you want to go a step above crush a diswasher tablet up and run it through the system for a few days then give the car another flush.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Haha thank you for all the advice its rare to find something usefull out here
I'm not sure about this engine layout; a 2000 1.4 Tu3 should already have a coilpack instead of the spark plug cable setup, and the valve cover also from an earlier year. Might have had its engine swapped for an older one? My Peugeot 106 1.4 Sport seems to have head gasket problems too, found some smudge in the coolant (not so much as this Saxo, only a few dots) and it is leaking some oil close to the timing belt (people say these are signs of head gasket leak) so I'm ordering the parts as we speak (love how cheap they are for a 106 1.4) and a friend who is mechanic will do the job for a reduced rate. A regular car garage would ask around 500 for the job, and the car is not really worth such an investment. Also doing the timing belt at the same time, because i dont know the mileage on the current belt, and the mileage on the clock might be off because for some reason it resets itself to 190,000 kms after reaching 200,000 (so who knows how many times it already did that..)
They seemed to use whatever parts they had about on these engines. Not sure what reason there would be a coil plug or individual leads.
Excellent work bravo
Thank you
Good to see, but what a job to do no wonder so many in the scrap yards in the UK
Its not too bad considering its age to have a head gasket to do, but yes it would write many of them off, i was considering scrapping the Saxo initially but then decided to fix it.
I've just saved a citroen c2 1.1 05 from the scrap yard nothing wrong with it apart from the common oil leak on the left corner on head gasket above alternator. Would you think tightening the 3 head bolts on the left side where oil leak would work ?
When I open the cap from the radiator I see a little mayonaise. Do you think I need to change the head gasket as well?
Definatley the radiator and not the oil cap?
What sort of car is this on, what type of engine.
Generally oil in the cooling system is not good, very occasionally it can be the oil cooler which has failed some 2.0 HDi engines will do that, otherwise its time to look about removing the head, having it skimmed and a new head gasket fitted.
I see this in the oil cap. My peugeot is 406 1999 Saloon 1.8 66 KW 90 PK motor XU7JB
Ah thats quite a bit different the engine oil cap.
How much mayonaise is there, does the car sit unused for periods of time, also what is the climate like in your country?
Give the oil cap a wipe clean, possibly also give the engine an oil change, consider using a flush also and keep an eye on the oil cap to see if the mayonaise stays away.
Also how is the rest of the car, is the temperature gague staying in the normal range, is the coolant clean, is the coolant or oil levels noticably changing.
I drive 130 km almost everyday. Long time ago one of my 50 fuse got broken and ventilator stop working but I already fixed that. If the car is in idle the temp goes really high. Of course ventilator works now and 2 sensors has been changed. temperature in the Netherlands is between 17 and 20 degrees. Oil levels has been changed and it is now in the second stripe. I needed to seal oil tank because it was leaking. I've never get broken on the highway. All what I fixed all my car has been learned from you and I've been doing everything myself.
The fuse blew for the radiator fan, if the fan is fixed can you definatley hear it operating. Without the fan it should be fine apart from when the car as you say is idling in traffic or a car park. Although it may be worthwhile flushing the coolant, changing the thermostat and bleeding it to ensure the cooling system is working at full efficency.
Thanks bro. Nice video you are perfect
mark 1 engine with injectors think some has been there before or am I missing something
Still a TU3 as far as i can tell, looks similar to my sisters 2005 206, apart from a coil pack.
Having said that this saxo was a bit of an oddity at times getting spare parts for it being the 1.4 auto may have led to citroen throwing whatever parts they had lying about.
How did you release the water between the cilinders and the engine wall? )))
The level should drop if the radiator pipe has been used to drain the coolant.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Thanks )) i worked.. Have another issue now.. assembled everything back on.. wich the marks in place..but wil not start now..The timing is wrong...don't now why...the marks are correct and everything...
@@maxims.762
Its spinning over freely?
Have you checked to ensure that there is fuel getting to the injector rail, has the plug for the injectors been plugged in (forgot that multiple times myself)
Can you remove the coil pack and spark plugs to check that they are sparking?
@@peugeotCitroen2CV Yes, checked it all.. Fuel is ok, spark is ok, all the plugs pluged in... But, i think that i found it... Nothing else was lose exept the head and the belt.. I collegue told me that today... When u changed/ take of the head, and the head gets skimmed, that u always have to check the valve clearance afterwards...The only thing i din't think of))) stupid of me ))... So i think next weekend i will check and adjust the clearance and hopefully the little bug will start afterwards ))) sound familiar to you maybe from experience? ))
Like!!! Thank you very much. I enjoyed your videos a lot.
Thanks for the comment
Il secondo perno che togli a cosa serve e dove si mette
Great job well done
Thanks for the comment
Wait! Why are you wearing your shirt upside down 🤔other than that great work 👍
Inside out haha.
If it gets stained, flip it back the right way round, a run through the washing machine good as new.
How did the headgasket failed? Did the engine got too hot?
Another great video again 👍
Im not sure i bought the car and although i gave it a quick check forgot completely to look in the radiator.
It didn't seem to have overheated and the man who skimmed the head said that the failure occurred where the oil goes to the head, i think thats more common on these TU engines than a failure of the gasket between the cylinders.
@@peugeotCitroen2CV I'm in exactly the same situation, bought without checking. Now very grateful for your video. Now all I need is your skill and equipment. Thanks.
what can I do with deformed head cover? replace it ?
A deformed valve/rocker cover? Its only a bit of pressed steel so if it has been deformed (i assume by some form of physical damage) replacements are still fairly easy to obtain.
Hi do you offer a head gasket repair service.
Unfortunately no, i only do a bit of car work in my spare time outside my day job
why did u put oil in sparkplugs hole?
Nuno Azevedo
This was because when cleaning the surface of the block and the piston tops i used degreaser and quite a lot went around the sides when it was sprayed, thus washing any oil film that there may have been on the cylinder bores. The oil in the spark plugs was added to replace this, in other words to stop the engine from "starting up dry" the oil was quickly burnt off but it should have prevented damage to the bores.
thank´s for your help!
Wow, you're so great!! :D
Thanks for the comment
Good clear video
thanks for the comment
Good job
its good job awesome
Can you give to me please the Nm of the nuts of the cover? Thanks
16Nm, however i would recommend buying a Haynes manual for a 106 or Saxo if you want all the torque specs.
2 nuts of valve cover -> 8 Nm
According to the manual it is saying 16Nm for the cylinder head cover (ie rocker cover) nuts, the timing belt cover nuts are quoted at 8Nm.
Bravo !!!
Good job men in french jolie travail c quoi comme voiture ? Merci thank
Got your t shirt inside out mate😂😂😂😂😂😂
Yeah haha, an attempt to keep the outside of it clean😂
😂😂😂😂, interesting though, cos my headgasket looks like it's on the way out, and garages want 700 to do a new one. The coolant is full of oil, but it's not milky where I put the oil in. Doesn't miss fire, no smoke, and doesn't overheat. Mot is out in January and I only paid 400 for it, and it's 07 plate imactulate inside and out. First c2 I've owned and don't k ow whether it's worth fixing as value is only 1500 on insurance
@@Blinkydabill
Unfortunately its how the head gasket fails on these the seal between the oil gallery and the coolant rather than into the cylinders.
£700 is a fair whack to spend on a C2 nowadays.
Its worth giving it a go yourself, get a new belt kit and have the head skimmed it will leave it a good car, you should be able to get the parts and head skimmed for under £300
Do it myself😂😂😂😜👍 not a chance mate, I can change lights and tyres and that's my limit👍😂
I'll just wait till it goes bang, 400 quid, what did I expect. If it lasts to its mot then I'll be laughing. Will a head gasket fail an mot? ( that's how thick I am😂)
It's very common issue on these engines. You're gonna do this again after 2 years :).
I know they can give trouble with head gaskets, a few relatives have 1.1 TU engines and never had any HG issues. Fingers crossed it lasts more than 2 years haha.
I ragged hard on a 1.1 for 24k, it got hot ONCE for no reason whilst driving normally, never happened again, and no HG issues! also, there are some good cooling system degreaser additives out there. :)
+John McDonald - Many of this engines head bolts are not properly torqued. That's the main reason why the head gaskets fail. I got a 106 1.1 in poor condition I knew the head gasket was gone. what I didn't knew then is that the head bolts where literally loose. Specially on the exhaust side, some took 2 full turns until some resistance could be felt.
Main reason why I always suggest checking bolts torque before any valve adjustment. That save a lot of head gaskets. ;-)
Edit: for this engines I've seen technical manuals suggesting torque/rotation combinations like 20Nm+260° or 40Nm/+360°... HUGE difference and surely responsible for many gaskets issues.
This is supposed to be an "easy" job for mechanics. Still a load of gubbins to take off and put back mind you.
Nice job and the only time I find these jobs good.............is when they are done!
Its one of the easier engines to strip down to do a head gasket, a mate actually said recently that when doing the cambelt on a 1.4 TU you may aswell do the head gasket at the same time for its such an easy thing to change when the engine is stripped that far and it seems so common on the 1.4.
On this video you didn't disconnect the battery always disconnect a battery when you're working on any vehicle
Hi there, take a quick look at the video around the 2:40 mark.
It may be observed around this time that the battery is disconnected.
Hope that helps.
Se le echa por la manguera de arriba para ke salga los globos de aire
Like!!!!
The unknown part is suppressor.
Ah thanks for that !
Todo esta bien menos cuando le echo el anticongelante no purgo
Bleeding the coolant system is an important step.
It is an incomplete work. Why did not you adjust the valves? You did not check Pistons either. In a short time the engine will fail again
Ángel 306
Great to hear from a keyboard mechanic
The valves were checked over by the business that dealt with the head skimming.
As for the pistons tell me as a professional yourself what checks?
In a long time this engine did not fail
do you always wear your shirts inside out? haha
Guus Bouwmans
Not always, but its handy turn it back the right way round and its still in good nick
31:42- Doggee!
Haha a cameo by old bob
UN TRAVAIL D1 VRAI PRO
Ciao sono stato di pacco vittima testata
I dont understand
your t-shirt is inside out.good vid
Someone noticed haha
It was something i did by accident one day then figured out that it keeps the good side clean haha, been doing it quite a bit now when working on cars.
Funny i never even thought about that, i assume one would need to be fairly sensitive to the seams for it to affect comfort. An interesting way of looking at it.