One trick I use when removing the oil filter is to put a 2" PVC pipe that has been cut in half length wise under the filter and let it drain into a bucket. I learned this trick from someone else and I thought you might find it useful.
thank you for taking video of your annual inspection. i read on your blog post you were in the air force? and that you have a lucrative career. what should i study in college so I can have lucrative career similar to yours?
The December '18 issue of Kitplanes has an article about Click Bond products including nut plates. If you used these around the fuel filler tube you wouldn't have to drill any holes more holes or rivet the nutplates into the tight area around the filler neck opening.
I know it's been a couple of years, did you figure out the black streaks on the exterior cowling? It's from the hinges vibrating and metal residue coming from the hinges as they slowly wear.. My RV12 does the same thing, and I have heard of others doing the same.. Joe - #120566
Yes, someone told me about that awhile ago. It still does it to a small degree, but it was a lot worse before I fixed the problem of the right side pin working it’s way up out of the hinge. That was letting it vibrate a lot more and causing more wear.
I use electric tape over a standard bandaid OR a multi-folded piece of paper towel .... ;-) BTW, try a long piece of Reynolds Wrap behind the filter and form the bottom into a quasi-funnel that is inserted into one of the buckets. ((I used to own an Opel Kadette. Came with a VERTICAL filter. Spoiled me somewhat severely --- never seen an engine since that didn't have horizontal filters. For others, have no excuse. For Vans, I just chaulk it up to part of the 51% rule [I know, not legally, but it assuages my anxiety])) That shelf that the regulator is on is Stainless, not Aluminum
Gwen Walcott Even as stainless, it still has a "feel" to it that isn't what I would expect. Not sure why. Either way, the dedicated ground wire might be helping based on the longevity of the 2nd regulator as compared to the first. It's already lasted twice as long. That could be completely unrelated to the ground wire, but I have always been satisfied with placebos. My Miata had a horizontal filter that was pretty near impossible to ge at. JiffyLube HATED that car because of the location of the filter - very hard to deal with when the engine was hot.
My Miata also has the horizontal filter, so I just change the oil and let the dealer do the filter every other year. I do NOT deal with Jiffy Lube --- they have stripped more than one oil pan (thinking the drain plug was actually a lug nut. Pan doesn't take 130 ft-# very easily --- and cost $1300 for a Miata and $2000 for a Ford to replace)
Peter Trauscht Mostly it just depends on where I'm ordering from. If I'm already paying shipping for an Aircraft Spruce order, I buy from them, but they don't carry the Rotax filters.
Dave, I've always wondered if it would be feasible to go with a welded aluminum tank [ goo.gl/AGPo7h ] and ditch the Pro-Seal® altogether. Since I joined the VAF many years ago, I've listening to nothing but screams of frustration at this evil substance, and at least once a week it seems that somebody is dealing with tank leaks. How much "modification" can be done on an E-LSA?
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I am not an RV-12 owner. But, I find this information very interesting. Thanks so much for sharing.
This was a great video. Thanks for posting. I’m a few months or so out from my first condition inspection on my RV-12 so this was a perfect preview!
Great Video. Would love to see more of RV-12 maintenance stuff.
One trick I use when removing the oil filter is to put a 2" PVC pipe that has been cut in half length wise under the filter and let it drain into a bucket. I learned this trick from someone else and I thought you might find it useful.
thank you for taking video of your annual inspection. i read on your blog post you were in the air force? and that you have a lucrative career. what should i study in college so I can have lucrative career similar to yours?
Who offers the inspection course. ? Thanks for taking the time doing this video n
Hey, I'm the first to view this video. Guess it pays to no be so busy at work on a Friday.. :)
Dave, what kind of gas are you burning? (100LL? Mogas? E10?)
Pete's a good man!
The December '18 issue of Kitplanes has an article about Click Bond products including nut plates. If you used these around the fuel filler tube you wouldn't have to drill any holes more holes or rivet the nutplates into the tight area around the filler neck opening.
Thanks for the tip - I'll take a look.
Autozone and Advanced Autoe also rents a number of tools. For free. Great for car repairs!
Do you need new main landing tires? Tread looks a little sparse?
Where did you go to take the 16hour course?
Have you had any carb icing with your Rotax 912 ULS?
I know it's been a couple of years, did you figure out the black streaks on the exterior cowling? It's from the hinges vibrating and metal residue coming from the hinges as they slowly wear.. My RV12 does the same thing, and I have heard of others doing the same.. Joe - #120566
Yes, someone told me about that awhile ago. It still does it to a small degree, but it was a lot worse before I fixed the problem of the right side pin working it’s way up out of the hinge. That was letting it vibrate a lot more and causing more wear.
I use electric tape over a standard bandaid OR a multi-folded piece of paper towel ....
;-)
BTW, try a long piece of Reynolds Wrap behind the filter and form the bottom into a quasi-funnel that is inserted into one of the buckets.
((I used to own an Opel Kadette. Came with a VERTICAL filter. Spoiled me somewhat severely --- never seen an engine since that didn't have horizontal filters. For others, have no excuse. For Vans, I just chaulk it up to part of the 51% rule [I know, not legally, but it assuages my anxiety]))
That shelf that the regulator is on is Stainless, not Aluminum
Gwen Walcott Even as stainless, it still has a "feel" to it that isn't what I would expect. Not sure why. Either way, the dedicated ground wire might be helping based on the longevity of the 2nd regulator as compared to the first. It's already lasted twice as long. That could be completely unrelated to the ground wire, but I have always been satisfied with placebos.
My Miata had a horizontal filter that was pretty near impossible to ge at. JiffyLube HATED that car because of the location of the filter - very hard to deal with when the engine was hot.
My Miata also has the horizontal filter, so I just change the oil and let the dealer do the filter every other year. I do NOT deal with Jiffy Lube --- they have stripped more than one oil pan (thinking the drain plug was actually a lug nut. Pan doesn't take 130 ft-# very easily --- and cost $1300 for a Miata and $2000 for a Ford to replace)
Good stuff, thanks
Why not just use rotax oil filters ?
Peter Trauscht Mostly it just depends on where I'm ordering from. If I'm already paying shipping for an Aircraft Spruce order, I buy from them, but they don't carry the Rotax filters.
Dave, I've always wondered if it would be feasible to go with a welded aluminum tank [ goo.gl/AGPo7h ] and ditch the Pro-Seal® altogether. Since I joined the VAF many years ago, I've listening to nothing but screams of frustration at this evil substance, and at least once a week it seems that somebody is dealing with tank leaks.
How much "modification" can be done on an E-LSA?
The first thing you do to the engine is take it apart... and violate the warranty.