3D printed Vibration Bowl Feeder / Construction / Technical Details / Arduino Code / DDS-Algorithm
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2023
- This video is about building a 3D printed vibration bowl feeder system. Vibration Bowl Feeders, also known as vibratory bowl feeders, are of great importance in many industrial applications. They play a critical role in the separation and precise positioning of various components.
They are often found at the beginning of a production line, aligning and feeding parts such as screws, nuts, bolts, electronic components and small parts.
We will explore the design of this impressive system in detail and also take a look at the Arduino code used to control it. One exciting topic is the DDS algorithm, which allows sine waves to be generated digitally.
If you want to learn more about how a Vibration Bowl Feeder system works and how to build it, this video is for you.
For a detailed description check out my website: fraensengineering.com/vibrati...
Here you can download the files: www.etsy.com/at/listing/15589...
or here: cults3d.com/de/modell-3d/werk...
HACKADAY: hackaday.com/2023/09/26/feed-...
The prototype is available here: www.thingiverse.com/thing:623... - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I have printed a few versions of 3d printed feeder bowls for my factory job, but never the base, very cool to see the effort you put into the design, and video editing.
Love the fact its a voron. Might have to fire up me tridex and my 2.4 and give it a shot. Great job.
By far the best 3D printer ;-)
Awesome Video! Appreciate the time and effort
This design is next level
Dope video. Thanks for sharing.
Boah, das ist genial. Danke fürs Zeigen !
😮omg 🔥🙌❤ Beautiful !! (To the frontpage Elliot!! ☠️🛠 )
Very nice!
amazing!!!
Perhaps in the future it can replace CNC and hand-made vibrant bowl feeders, we use many in our machines...
This is really cool to see you figure it out. Instead of a flat electro mag, could you benefit from a 2 piece solenoid? With the core mounted to the acting plate projecting through the windings on the base. Maybe it would desensitize the mag gap since you'd be acting on a cylindrical core instead of a flat surface. Then you could more easily tune it with the drive for whatever spring and load you have.
Yes, you are right. Original feeder systems use other magnets. However, these are extremely expensive. I wanted to implement it with a simple, inexpensive pot magnet.
Hello! Really cool design and machine! Thanks for sharing!
I am currently learning more about 3D printing myself. I was curious, if you don't mind answering; how long did it take to print the larger components and pieces of the body?
Hello, unfortunately I don't know that exactly anymore. I have a Voron 2.4 printer. This is a relatively fast printer. I print the perimeter with approx. 110mm/s. The infill is even faster. Around 130mm/s. The dish has printed about 7 hours I guess.
This would be an excellent base for something called a vibratory tumbler. Basically, it works by shaking rocks or metal parts with some polishing grit and water. The one’s that rely on solenoids instead of rotary motors are extremely expensive. But your design would make these tools much more accessible. All you would need to do is print a bundt cake shaped bowl for the rocks to sit in and put on a lid.
That's an excellent idea. Maybe I'll put it into practice. We used to have something like that in the company where I worked. It was a large horizontal drum in which we deburred the laser-cut parts. I am always open to new ideas. Thank you very much :-)
I actually found your video while researching how to make my own polisher. If you designed this into a rock polisher, I’d buy it. I’ve been trying to figure out how to make a very basic control board for the electromagnet using a 555 timer instead of an arduino. The biggest issues with the polishers you can buy at the store is that the bowls rust, crack, and leak. Also, the motors they use burn out quickly. I really just want to build something like what you have here but with using potentiometers to control amperage and frequency instead of trying to do any programming.
Can you send me a link so that I know exactly what you mean?
I wish this worked more like discord so i could share screenshots and other diagrams. I made a tinkercad version of the controller but i have no idea if it would work.
@@FraensEngineeringi just realized my post with the html links are being removed. Not sure how else to send them
Great video!
On the linear feeder what variables would afect the speed of the objects the most?
And do you think PLA would resist for a long time before fadige strats to weaken the material?
The speed is determined by the installation angle of the springs. I am currently working on a project where I am also using PLA springs. These broke after about 2 days of continuous running. I am currently testing with PETG. I will then show my findings in a video.
@@FraensEngineering Thank you for the information.
I'm looking forward to watch that video.
Continue doing a great work 👍
I forgot to ask, is it possible to use a weaker magnet, for exemple 30kg of strenght?
I want to build a 3D printed linear feeder for golf tees. Since they are light objects, the strenght of the springs can also be reduced, and therefore the strenght the magnet?
Also, can you share the wiring diagram you used with both potentiometers?
@@FraensEngineering
Could an Arduino Nano be used instead of an Uno? Is the code listed on your website complete or is it available to download somewhere? Thank you for sharing this - excellent work!
Hello, the code on my website is complete. I think it should also work with a nano. I would not think of anything now why not. If you test it, let me know.
Sorry, one more question. Do you think this polarity reversing benefit will work when using a neodymium magnet instead of a steel plate? I plan on using this with a linear feeder similar to the one you show at the beginning of your video. In my case I am very space limited and hope to get away with three P20/15 24v (250 ohm) electromagnets wired in parallel. Thanks.
Hi friend! Very nice job and research. It works really well for 3d printed construction. Tell me please, what angle of plate tilt did you find optimal, how much angles from vertical axis? Thanks in advance.
The angle is partly responsible for the conveying speed. I think between 45 and 60 degrees to the horizontal should be good.
Perhaps in the future it can replace CNC and hand-made vibrating bowl feeders we used many feeders in our machines...
I think it will in the future. Making the bowls is extremely time-consuming. 3D printing is a very good option here. When metal 3D printing becomes cheaper, it will certainly be an alternative.
Nice 😵
Can it count the parts for inventory purposes?
A separate sensor system with evaluation would be necessary for counting. The feeder only separates the parts.
How well would this scale up in size do you think?
The drive unit can be safely used for a larger bowl. The magnet has a decent performance.
cool but what do you use it for?
I'm sure I can think of something ;-)
@@FraensEngineering use it to feed chips into your mouth. great job btw. i studied automated assembly systems and did the calculations for feeders at college. always wondered if we can 3d print them. might do one myself using resin printing. would be fun to add some additional orientation features and have misaligned parts drop back into the bowl.
I'm thinking about getting a resin printer myself. According to my research, the parts are relatively brittle. I'm not sure if this could work. The forces that are introduced are not exactly small. Installing traps is the next step for this project. Basically, the feeder was built to sort screws. I'm going to look into that.
@@FraensEngineering The right resin will handle the forces no problem. I use resins that will outperform 95% of FDM materials (including high grade engineering filaments such as ULTEM).
Yes, they can be brittle (especially if using cheap resins) and if they are left in strong UV for too long, but even a decent "ABS-like" resin will outperform PLA in terms of most mechanical properties. They get really brittle when printing thin structures. I have been using a technical resin on a project, and we are printing walls of 300 microns. Very brittle at that thickness, especially as it is translucent when thin, and allows UV to penetrate more. But when printed at a couple of centimeters, its no problem.
If you want to spend $100 and upward per kilogram on more technical resins as I do, they will blow any filament out of the water, even for impact resistance.
I have a lab oven for dual curing resins also, which i can also use for technical coatings which also enhance the durability of the resin (as well as protect from UV)
It sounds very professional what you are doing. So it depends very much on the resign you use. I thought I'd get a printer from Anycubic or something. Just to see how it works. I assume you have a slightly higher priced model. Such a device would fit well in my workshop since I have an exhaust there.
Which printer are you using?
Its a Voron 2.4
Good shit
This is pretty amazing but I'm struggling to understand the mechanics of how this actually works. How does vibrating make it go uphill?! I'll have to do some research into this process to figure things out...
Regardless, great video and as an aside, seeing the seeds left over in the screws at 12:18 made me laugh. 🙂
The parts are thrown upwards by the arrangement of the springs. The springs have a flatter angle than the slideway.
Here's how I think it works: When the magnet sucks down, the springs pull back and turn the device slightly without contacting the stuff in the plate due to inertia, then when it releases the magnet, the springs push up and spin it slightly to return to the initial position, imparting the spin on the stuff in the plate. This occurs at whatever hertz the magnet is set to so it looks like a constant motion to the naked eye.
@@boomchacle6717 Yeah, that seems to be what I found in my research. The fact that the springs are angled is the key. And when making it from scratch, you've just gotta keep the angle correct for the side of the "tub" that the ramp is on. Because you could easily screw that up and everything would rotate backwards.
@@boomchacle6717 the impulse throws the part upwards and forwards, then the part slides back a little (friction is important) and then the next impulse from the sine wave throws the part again before it has the chance to slide back to its original position. so it's always moving forward. Like 1 step forward, half a step back, one step forward, half a step back...etc.
Oh hey, a VORON